BRVCE CANYON

N A T I O N A vTAli UNITED STATES Historic Events Bryce DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR Canyon Harold L. Ickes, Secretary 1866 James Andrus and party of Indian SEASON fighters from St. George, , passed MAY 1 TO through the Bryce region. NATIONAL PARK NOVEMBER 1 19 40 UTAH

1872 Bryce Canyon visited by A. H.

NATIONAL PARK SERVICE Thompson, E. S. Dcllenbaugh, and BRYCE TEMPLE. Arno B. Cammerer, Director party on geological mission. C OJ\JEJ\JS RYCE CANYON NATIONAL extending down a thousand feet 1875 The settlements of Escalante and Can- PARK includes some of the through its pink and white marly lime­ Natural Bridge .... Cover nonville established. Ebenezer Bryce, most interesting exposures of stone. The character of the area is for whom the park is named, settled B General Information Relating the Pink Cliffs formation, whose rocks well indicated by the Paiute Indian at lower gateway to Bryce Canyon. to Geology of Zion and are among the most colorful of any name,"Unka-timpe-wa-wince-pock-ich," Bryce Canyon National forming the earth's crust. The major which is translated as, "red rocks stand­ beauty spots of the area are found ing like men in a bowl-shaped can­ Parks 4 1876 First written description of Bryce Can­ where forces of erosion have cut back yon." This amphitheater is 3 miles How to Reach Bryce ... 8 yon made by T. C. Bailey, U. S. dep­ into the plateau, forming amphitheaters long and about 2 miles wide, and is Roads and Trails .... 10 uty surveyor, who viewed the canyon or wide canyons filled with pinnacles filled to the brim with myriads of fan­ from Sunset Point. and grotesque forms. tastic figures cut by weathering in­ Administration 10 The entire park area, with some 30 fluences, chiefly by running water, wind, Naturalist Services .... 10 miles of Pink Cliffs, can be seen from and changes in temperature. Domes, Rainbow Mountain, at the southern spires, and temples predominate, dec­ Accommodations and 1923 Bryce Canyon National Monument cre­ end of the park. Included in this orated in all the colors of the spectrum, ated by Presidential proclamation. Expenses 10 panorama are such beautiful amphi­ but principally with reds, pinks, and Free Public Campgrounds . 12 theaters as Black Birch Canyon, Agua creams. Canyon, and Willis Creek. In addition, The park was established September Transportation 12 1924 Act of Congress authorized the crea­ there are magnificent views across "the 15, 1928, under authority of the acts Saddle Horses 13 tion of Utah National Park. land of the purple sage" to Navajo of Congress approved June 7, 1924, and Post Office and Communi­ Mountain, 80 miles to the east, and February 25, 1928. Under the former to the Kaibab Plateau and the Trum­ cation Service 13 act, authority was given for the creation bull Mountains to the south, the latter of the Utah National Park, to take in 1928 Bryce Canyon National Park formally Miscellaneous Services ... 13 99 miles distant. the area then included in the Bryce created by Presidential proclamation. In reality Bryce is not a canyon; Canyon National Monument, condition­ Cedar Breaks National Act of Congress changed name from rather it is a great horseshoe-shaped ed upon the transfer of all private Monument 15 Utah National Park to Bryce Canyon. bowl or amphitheater cut by water ero­ land holdings within the proposed park sion into the Paunsaugunt Plateau and boundaries to the Federal Government.

2 Bryce Canyon National Bar\ . Utah Bryce Canyon National Part\ . Utah 3 Before these conditions were met Con­ exposed that the region seems made up gress passed its 1928 act changing the of gorges, cliffs, and mesas intimately name of the park to Bryce Canyon Na­ associated with a marvelous variety of tional Park and nearly doubling the minor erosion forms. The parks might area contained in the monument. The be considered as mountainous regions canyon had been reserved as the Bryce in which departures of many thousand Canyon National Monument by Presi­ feet from a general surface are down­ dential proclamation June 8, 1923, ward rather than upward. pending consideration for national-park The canyons and adjoining terraces status and the passing of the necessary are spectacular illustrations of erosion. legislation to effect this. Under con­ They show with diagrammatic clear­ gressional authority of June 15, 1930, ness the work of running water, rain, President Hoover by proclamations frost, and wind, of ground water and dated January 5, 1931, and May 4, chemical agencies active throughout a 1931, added 22,320 acres to the park. long period of time. The horizontal The total area is now 35,980 acres, tables and benches, broken by vertical or 56 square miles. lines that in distant view appear to GENERAL INFORMATION RE­ dominate the landscape, are normal LATING TO GEOLOGY OF ZION features of erosion of plateau lands in AND BRYCE CANYON NA­ an arid climate. The tabular forms TIONAL PARKS1 are the edges and surfaces of hard strata from which softer layers have been RECIONAL FEATURES.—In Zion and stripped. The vertical lines mark the Bryce Canyon National Parks the type position of fractures (joints)—lines of of scenery peculiar to the plateaus of weakness which erosion enlarges into southern Utah and northern grooves and miniature canyons. As they attains its most complete expression. entrench themselves in horizontal lay­ Layer upon layer of shales and sand­ ers of rock that vary in resistance to stones have been carved into architec­ erosion, the master streams and their tural forms, astonishingly alike for size tributaries are developing stairlike pro­ and color. The long stretches of even files on their enclosing walls. Cliffs skyline seen on approaching the parks in resistant rocks and slopes in weak from Cedar City (west), Panguitch rock constitute risers and treads that (north), and Grand Canyon (south) vary in steepness and height with the give an impression of extensive flat thickness of the strata involved. Thus surfaces that terminate in lines of cliffs, near the south entrance to Zion Park but viewpoints within the parks reveal the edge of a layer of hard conglomer­ a ruggedness possessed by few other ate is a vertical cliff, its top a platform. regions. The canyons are so narrow, Above this platform a long slope of so deep, and so thickly interlaced, and shales, broken by many benches de­ the edges of the strata so continuously veloped in hard beds, extends upward to the great cliff faces of West Temple 1 Condensed from an article by H. E. Gregory, Grant photo U. S. Geological Survey. and the Watchman. In front of Zion LIBERTY CASTLE AND WINDOW FROM PEEK-A-BOO CANYON. 4 Bryce Canyon National Part\ . Utah Bryce Canyon National Part\ . Utah 5 Lodge a slope of weak shales leads up­ the extensive areas of bare rock are begins. The rocks exposed in these rectangular blocks by north-south frac­ ward to a cliff of resistant sandstone maintained by the rapid down-cutting three national parks incorporate the tures or faults. Three of these great above which a slope of shale extends and prompt removal of rock waste. The records of a billion years. faults can be seen in the vicinity of the to the vertical wall of Lady Mountain. resulting land forms reflect the aridity A study of the rocks of Zion and parks: the Hurricane fault in the Hurri­ In Bryce Canyon the rim road is on and the topographic youth of southern Bryce Canyon shows that during the cane Cliffs, west of Zion; the Paun- the highest tread of a giant rock stair­ Utah and contrast strongly with the last 200,000,000 years the region com­ saugunt fault in the cliffs of Bryce; way that as viewed from Rainbow rounded hills, the broad valleys, the prising the parks has witnessed many and the Sevier fault along the Mount Point leads downward in steps 30 to plant-covered slopes, and the deep soils changes in landscape and climate. At Carmel Road between the two parks. 400 feet high to the flat lands 3,000 feet of more humid regions. times it was covered by the sea, at other In consequence of the uplift the third below. GEOLOGIC HISTORY.—A large part of times broad rivers traversed its surface, major event, the present cycle of ero­ The streams at work in the parks, geologic history is revealed in the can­ and at still other times it was swept by sion, was initiated. The streams became though relatively small, have steep yon walls of Zion and Bryce Canyon desert winds. Most of the rocks were strong and swift and so were able to gradients, including rapids and water­ National Parks. Just as Grand Canyon laid down by water as gravel, sand, cut deeply into the underlying rock falls, and are supplied with disinte­ is the best known record of ancient mud, and limy ooze. They have been and carry away the land waste. In this grated rock material swept from the geologic history, Zion Canyon records converted into solid rock by the weight process the streams have removed many ledges by torrential rains about as fast most clearly the events of medieval of layers above them and by lime, cubic miles of rocks which if replaced as formed. They are therefore powerful geological time, and Bryce reveals much silica, and the iron that cement their would fill the present canyons and agents of erosion, especially in times of of modern geologic history. The story grains. Embedded in the rocks are build up their bordering land to the flood. The fresh, sharp, angular profile of Zion begins where that of Grand fossil sea shells, fish, trees, snails, and level of the lofty Markagunt and Paun- of mesas, ridges, and canyon walls and Canyon ends, and ends where Bryce the bones and tracks of land animals saugunt Plateaus. The gigantic fea­ that sought their food on flood plains, tures of Zion and Bryce Canyon Na­ in forests, or among sand dunes. The tional Parks mark a stage in the proc­ most conspicuous remains are those of ess of erosion that began long ago and dinosaurs—huge reptiles that so domi­ which if continued without interrup­ nated the life of their time that the tion will convert the present rugged Mesozoic is known as the "age of dino­ landscape into plains near sea level. saurs." DISTINCTIVE FEATURES OF BRYCE CAN­ The accumulation of some 8,000 feet YON.—In its regional setting Bryce Can­ of strata (Mesozoic and Tertiary) on yon National Park is the southeastern top of 4,000 feet of older (Paleozoic) border of the extensive Paunsaugunt beds, which are exposed in Grand Can­ Plateau. It comprises two areas of yon, may be considered the first of strongly contrasted topography that three major events in the development meet in a line that marks the rim of of the marvelous landscapes of the the plateau and the top of its border­ Zion-Bryce region; it provided the mate­ ing cliffs. Back from the rim the plateau rial from which the huge scenic fea­ surface on which the park buildings tures were later carved. The second and the automobile roads have been event was a regional uplift which ele­ constructed is generally flat land vated the previously low-lying top beds traversed by broad, shallow valleys in of the series (Wasatch, Pink Cliffs) to which erosion is inconspicuous. Below a height of nearly 2 miles above sea the rim erosion has produced a region Geological sketch oj Zion National Parkt by H. E. Gregory level. As a result of this movement, of remarkable ruggedness. It might GENERALIZED SECTION OF SEDIMENTS IN ZION AND BRYCE CANYONS. the earth's crust was broken into huge naturally be supposed that the beautiful

6 Bryce Canyon National Part\ . Utah Bryce Canyon National Part\ . Utah 7 amphitheater at the head of Bryce Can­ that form the topmost cliffs and termi­ yon had been carved by waters pour­ nate abruptly in such headlands as ing down from the plateau above. But Steamboat Mountain, Bryce Point, and the plateau streams contribute nothing; Rainbow Point are resistant limestones they flow away from the rim. The chief of Tertiary age (Wasatch formation). sculpturing agents are the rain and They erode as vertical walls (Pink snow that fall directly into the canyon. Cliffs) which weathering has devel­ In producing the amazing variety of oped into the astonishing display of erosion features the streams have been architectural forms that make Bryce aided by frost that pries fragments Canyon distinctive. from the cliffs and by chemical agen­ HOW TO REACH BRYCE cies that decompose the rock and sup­ ply its vivid color. In going to Bryce private motorists should leave the main highway, United The development of the park land­ States Highway 89, 7 miles south of the scape was made possible by move­ town of Panguitch, Utah. Turning to ments within the earth's crust which the east, the road follows up Red Can­ brought originally low-lying strata to yon, a brilliantly colored little gorge an altitude exceeding 8,000 feet. Stream- which is often mistaken for Bryce Can­ ways on the flat top of this uplifted yon itself. The approach to Bryce is block were little affected, but with unusual; no evidence of the canyon is greatly steepened gradients streams visible until the visitor walks on to the around the borders of the newly made rim and suddenly has revealed to him plateau became powerful. The Paria the great sight in all its breath-taking and its swiftly flowing tributaries have beauty. Improved highways make cut deeply into the face of the Paun- Bryce Canyon Park easily accessible, ex­ saugunt and carried billions of tons cept during the winter. of ground-up rock to the Colorado. At the present time erosion by Bryce Travelers by rail may reach the park Creek, Yellow Creek, Willis Creek, over the Union Pacific System from Podunk Creek, and many smaller to Cedar City, Utah, streams, is causing the plateau face to thence by motorbus to Bryce. retreat northwestward, and these Busses of the Burlington Transporta­ streams are taking into their drainage tion Co. and Interstate Transit Lines areas channels that formerly carried operate from Salt Lake City and Los waters northward to Sevier River. Angeles to Cedar City, where passen­ The drab colored landscape along the gers going to the park may transfer southeast border of the park has been to busses of the Utah Parks Co. On developed in alternating beds of shale, prior notice, connections may be made coal, and sandstone (Cretaceous age); with the Santa Fe Trails System at in the resulting erosion forms, slopes, Marysvale. mounds, rounded ridges, and valleys High-speed de luxe airplane service with inclined or steplike sides pre­ from all points in the United States dominate. The brightly colored rocks to Salt Lake City is available through PORTION OF BRYCE CANYON NATIONAL PARK.

8 Bryce Canyon National Bar\ . Utah Bryce Canyon National Par/{ . Utah 9 United Air Lines. Service is also avail­ regarding service in the park should able from Los Angeles by Western Air be addressed to him. Express, with stops at Las Vegas, Nev., Information concerning the park is and Salt Lake City. available at the Bryce museum, located ROADS AND TRAILS near the public auto camp and cafeteria. The National Park Service has com­ NATURALIST SERVICES pleted an excellent road, which follows A ranger naturalist conducts an auto the high rim the full length of the caravan to various points of interest park plateau, with short spurs to scenic every afternoon during the summer viewpoints. Twenty miles of paved road season, leaving Bryce museum accord­ now lead to Inspiration Point, Bryce ing to schedules posted by the naturalist Point, Paria View, the Natural Bridge, service. and Rainbow Point, at the plateau's Each evening at 8:30 illustrated lec­ end. tures are given at the lodge and at the The roads are open during spring, campfire lecture circle near the public summer, and fall, and efforts are made campground by members of the staff, to keep those in the vicinity of head­ who also conduct short hiking trips quarters open throughout the winter, into Bryce Canyon, leaving Sunset except for brief periods during and Point every day of the summer season immediately following storms. according to schedules posted by the A series of fine horseback and foot naturalist service. trails have been built in the interesting Visitors are urged to use these fa­ area under the rim. No visitor should cilities, which are provided free of leave until he has had close-up charge by the Government. views of the formations. Trails lead into Queen's Garden, the Silent City, ACCOMMODATIONS AND Fairyland, Wall Street, Peek-a-boo Can­ EXPENSES yon, and other more remote points, An attractive lodge is operated by each with its well-named peculiar and the Utah Parks Co. from about May distinctive forms. Trails are all easily 30 to September 30. It consists of a traveled; horseback trips can be ar­ central building and cabins. Rates ranged in half- or full-day units to ' (European plan) are $2.25 per day for suit the individual. 1 person and $3.50 for 2, in "standard" ADMINISTRATION cabins; $5 per day for 1 person, $6.50 Bryce Canyon National Park is ad­ for 2, and $8.25 for 3, in "de luxe" ministered as a unit with Zion National cabins (private bath, porch, and fire­ Park and Cedar Breaks and Zion Na­ place). Meals in the lodge dining room tional Monuments. The representative are table d'hote; breakfast $.85, lunch­ of the National Park Service in im­ eon $.90, and dinner $1.50. Children mediate charge is the superintendent of under 8 are allowed half rate for meals. Zion National Park, C. Marshall Fin­ There is also a cabin development nan, whose post-office address is Zion which is open from about May 1 to Oc­ National Park, Utah. All comments tober 30. Here are available a cafeteria, ROADS CONNECTING BRYCE CANYON, ZION, GRAND CANYON, AND CEDAR BREAKS.

10 Bryce Canyon National Bark . Utah Bryce Canyon National Bark, . Utah 11 SADDLE HORSES lodge, and photographs of Zion and Saddle horses may be hired for $1.50 Bryce may be purchased. Laboratories for 2 hours or less, $3 for 2 to 4 hours, are maintained for developing and and $5 for 8 hours. Daily escorted trips printing. into the canyon cost $3, and those to Curio stores, specializing in Indian Natural Bridge are $5. Special guide handicraft, are operated. Curios, post­ service, if available, may be obtained for cards and other items may be obtained $5 a day or $3 for a half day or less. at the cabin camps, which carry a Riding outfits for women may be rent­ complete line of foodstuffs. ed at the lodge. Garage service, including storage, re­ pairs, tires, batteries, gasoline, and oil, POST OFFICE AND COMMUNICA­ is provided by the Utah Parks Co. dur­ TION SERVICE ing the regular lodge season. Bryce Canyon Lodge is provided with A registered nurse is on duty at the post office, telegraph, and long distance lodge when it is in operation. telephone service. The post office ad­ This booklet is issued once a year dress during the summer season when and rates mentioned herein may have the lodge is operating is Bryce Canyon changed slightly since issuance, but the National Park, Utah. latest rates approved by the Secretary MISCELLANEOUS SERVICES of the Interior are on file with the

Grant plioto Fountain service is available in the superintendent and park operator. OASTLER CASTLE FROM THE CAMPBELL CANYON TRAIL

LOOKING INTO BRYCE CANYON. food store, and housekeeping cabins. park after the closing dates of the The cabins are $2.50 and $2.75 per day lodge and camp, there are camps near for 1 or 2 persons and $3.75 for 3 or the park where fairly good accommoda­ 4. They are equipped with electricity, tions can be found at any time of the running water, double beds, cooking year. stoves, table, sink, shelves, and chairs. TRANSPORTATION A 15% discount on lodgings is al­ Motorbus transportation and all-ex­ lowed for a stay of one week or more. pense tours to Zion, Bryce Canyon and FREE PUBLIC CAMPGROUNDS the North Rim of Grand Canyon Na­ An attractive public auto camp, main­ tional Parks, the Kaibab Forest, and tained by the Government, is open from Cedar Breaks National Monument is about April 15 to November 15; how­ furnished by the Utah Parks Co., Cedar ever, these dates vary according to City, Utah, during the summer season weather conditions. Pure water and and by special arrangement during the sanitary conveniences are provided, and remainder of the year. An automobile groceries and campers' supplies may be trip from Bryce Canyon Lodge to In­ purchased at the Bryce Camp store. spiration Point, Bryce Point, Little Camping is limited to 30 days a year. Bryce, Natural Bridge, and Rainbow For those not carrying their own Point and return is offered for $3 per equipment and desiring to visit the person during the summer.

12 Bryce Canyon National Park\ . Utah Bryce Canyon National Par\ . Utah 13 CEDAR BREAKS NATIONAL including blankets, linen, and maid MONUMENT service. Dining service at Cedar Breaks Lodge is a la carte or table d'hote; Twenty miles east of Cedar City, breakfast $.50 to $.85, luncheon $.90, within the Dixie National Forest, where and dinner $1.50. Groceries, campers' the high plateau breaks away to the supplies, gasoline, and oil may be pro­ west, is a great amphitheater called cured. Cedar Breaks Lodge is open Cedar Breaks, in the Pink Cliffs forma­ from about June 1 to September 20. tion. The more spectacular part of the A free public campground is main­ formation was created a national monu­ tained where water, cooking fireplaces, ment by the proclamation of President and fuel are furnished. Franklin D. Roosevelt on August 22, 1933, and placed under the administra­ The season of accessibility varies with tion of the National Park Service. The weather conditions, but is usually from monument embraces an area of 5,836.68 early June to the first of November. On acres. account of the high altitude, snows per­ sist until late spring. During the sum­ While Cedar Breaks is cut from the mer season, the National Park Service same geological formation as Bryce Can­ maintains an information office and yon, there is a marked difference be­ small museum near the parking area tween these two scenic areas. There at Point Supreme. are not countless numbers of outstand­ ing temples, spires, and minarets in the Cedar Breaks bowl, but Cedar Breaks ON THE COMANCHE TRAIL IN BRYCE is on a more gigantic scale and has Grant photo a greater variety of tints. The Pink Cliffs here have a thickness of nearly 2,000 feet, and 47 different shades of color have been distinguished. The heavily forested rim attains an altitude of 10,700 feet. The cliffs are white or orange at the top, breaking into tints of deep rose and coral. The high elevation also affords an excellent distant view of mountains and desert. The Utah Parks Co. has provided a comfortable lodge with an attractive dining room, lobby, and rest rooms. Sleeping accommodations are available in cabins operated in connection with the lodge at the rate of $2.25 for 1 and $3.50 for 2 persons in a standard cabin room. Housekeeping cabin rooms CEDAR BREAKS. are $2.50 per day for 1 or 2 persons,

14 Bryce Canyon National ?arh\ . Utah Bryce Canyon National Bar\ . Utah 15 RULES AND REGULATIONS

[Briefed]

THE PARK REGULATIONS are designed TRAILS.—Do not attempt to make for the protection of the natural beau­ short cuts; to do so you may endanger ties and scenery, as well as for the you as well as others using the trails. comfort and convenience of visitors. Before attempting the more difficult The following synopsis is for con­ trails seek advice from a park ranger. venient reference and general guidance AUTOMORILE REGULATIONS.—(a) Per­ of visitors: mit.—A charge of $1 for each automo­ PRESERVATION OF NATURAL FEATURES. bile is made at Bryce Canyon and Zion —The parks are established primarily National Parks. One permit is good for for preservation of natural features. Do both parks, and is good for the remain­ not destroy or disturb flowers, trees, der of the year in which issued. House animals, etc. Writing on or otherwise trailer fee, $1. defacing rocks and other natural fea­ (b) Careful driving—The roads in tures is strictly prohibited. Hunting the park are built purely for scenic pur­ and the use of firearms are prohibited. poses, not as high-speed thoroughfares. CAMPING.—Camp only in established Observe speed limits and the usual rules campgrounds. Keep your camping area of the road; keep to right, do not park clean. BE CAREFUL WITH FIRE. on curves, pass cars going in the same Picnicking in the galleries of Zion Tun­ direction only when the road ahead is nel is not permitted. Lunching and clear and the vision unobstructed. picnicking are prohibited except in pub­ (c) Lights—Your car must have its lic auto camp. Camping limited to 30 lights in proper condition before you days. will be permitted to enter Bryce Na­

DISORDERLY CONDUCT.—Proper con­ tional Park. duct is required of all visitors for the PENALTIES.—Maximum penalty for benefit of others who are entitled to get violation of park regulations is $500 the fullest possible enjoyment from the and/or imprisonment for 6 months. park. MISCELLANEOUS.—The park rangers PETS.—If you are carrying a dog, cat, are employed to help and advise visi­ or other pet, you may take it into and tors as well as to enforce regulations. through the park provided it is at all When in doubt, ask a ranger. A com­ times kept tied or confined within the plete copy of the park rules and regula­ car. tions is available on request. BRYCE C AHYON

M AT I O N A uTAH

W. H. Kistler Stationery Co., Denver, Colorado. 2-10-40— +0M.