Section: Magazine Edition: 01 Circulation: 60150 Date: 10 September 2011 Source: ABC February 2009 Page: 6,7

THE FASHION ISSUE INTERVIEW Photographs Mark Mainz Styling Carrie McAdam Hey, good looking He’s a former model and political researcher blessed with beauty and charisma. Now Mark Hogarth is placing Harris tweed at the heart of international fashion, discovers Ali Howard

ark Hogarth strides into passionate but not boastful. In short, he charmed every- the hotel and every female one in the place. In the hip-hop world, they’d say he had in the place turns her swagger.But really, it seems, Hogarth is one of the lucky head. Well, perhaps not few to be born with that classic combination of looks all. I, for one, am already and charm. facing the door,anticipat- What I wasn’t expecting is brains. Granted, business ing his arrival. There’s a is booming – in a big part down to Hogarth’s efforts; and mix up regarding times the company’s client list is a who’s who of the fashion and Hogarth is late. He world: Alexander McQueen, Calvin Klein and Vivienne needs an assistant, I tell Westwood, to name a few.But as Hogarth chats, quoting him once he’s made himself comfortable. “It’s quite Oscar Wilde, talking politics and the economics of the Minteresting – a few folk have offered their services,” he BRIC countries (Brazil, , India and China – the says, flashing a brilliant smile. company’s next target markets), it would seem he’s got I bet they have. Having been witness to his attendance the smarts too. If I were a man, I’d want to hate him. at this year’s Scottish Fashion Awards – at which Harris But then Hogarth is genuinely nice. He talks a lot, but Tweed Hebrides, of which he is creative director, won in an engaging manner.While it would be easy to suggest Textile Designer of the Year for the second time–Iam he’s the pretty public face of the company, Hogarth aware of Hogarth’s ability to create a certain amount of knows his facts and figures and can tell the story of swooning wherever he goes. And that was in the pres- Harris tweed inside out. Ask about the brand’s latest ence of male models such as David Gandy. collaboration with Topman and Hogarth, 35, knows the But then Hogarth, a former model himself from product code of the colour of tweed they are using: YC Ardrossan, delivered one of the most well-articulated 140. Ask him to describe it and he’ll say it’s like a deep, speeches of the evening: self-assured but not cocky, dark brown – a rust colour similar to the brown

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Section: Magazine Edition: 01 Circulation: 60150 Date: 10 September 2011 Source: ABC February 2009 Page: 6,7

interview growth on last year alone.Today,the mill is seaweed found on the west coast of working to capacity,with demand outstrip- Harris. “It’sexactly the same colour as that ping supply.(The company has more than found in nature, which is quite inspiring,” 50 staff and, in the run up to their August he says. holidays, the mill was running 24 hours a Although Hogarth doesn’thail from the day,producing upwards of 200 pieces of Hebrides he has spent enough time there tweed aweek to fill the autumn orders.) for it to filter into his soul. “There’sanear “We are in aprivileged position,”says mystical relationship between the land and Hogarth,“but of course that brings its own the cloth,”hesays, “astrong element of the set of problems – good problems.”The fabric reflecting the people, the people weavers, who for so long have had ahard reflecting the land.” time, are being tested – but the mood is The island’sstoryisnow his story. “I positive. Because of the fabric’sprotective probably bore people telling it on adaily Act of Parliament, the tweed has to be basis. But it’snot until you actually see the woven at the home of the weaver.It’spartly process from start to finish that you realise Hogarth’sjob to help make sure demand is how unique it is.” sustained and the future is assured. He tells me how the colours are lifted from It doesn’tsound like an easy position the island’srocks, lichen and wild flowers. and, as thecommunications arm of the He points to the fabric of the seats we’re business, the last few years have been so sitting on – which is Harris tweed, designed busy for Hogarth that when it came time to by Scottish design house Graven Images take abreak last year,heended up getting (’sBlythswood Hotel is virtually a viral meningitis. “Looking back, it was homage to the fabric). “From adistance, purely because Ioverdid it for acouple of this tweed here looks like adark green but, months,”hesays. “And the body just said, up close, you realise there’sspecks of blue ‘No, that’snot happening.’” At times, he’s and highlights of lime and green.” not always had agood work-life balance. His passion is obvious and today’s In part this has been becauseHogarth tardiness wasn’ttypical. Lately,hesays, it’s travels around the world singing the praises been “manic”. In August, there was the of Harris tweed. But today,it’sthe NewYork Harris Tweed Ride, acharity bike run in reception that Hogarth is preparing for – Glasgow,with proceeds going to the Linda and he’sabit nervous. Pulling in the right Norgrove Foundation, set up in memory of attendees and clientele is key. the aid worker killed in Afghanistan in In the hey-day of the fabric, the US was October 2010 (“Her being from the Hebri- the biggest market, accounting for around des, it seemed the right thing to do,”he 60% of the market share. But that dipped says); ashow at the Belladrum Tartan Heart along with the textile’spopularity.Today, music festival in Beauly; and areception in America stands at less than 5%; and Japan, New York to celebrate 100 years of the which loves the colours and heritage of Harris Tweed Authority’sOrb, the trade- Harris tweed, is its largest market, account- mark which certifies Harris tweed as genu- ing for 85% of exports.“But in the last year- ine. “It’sgetting that crazy way where I’ve and-a-half we’ve got some real A-list clients almost plateaued,”says Hogarth. – real trend-setters at the vanguard of New York,”says Hogarth. ince Harris Tweed Hebrides took These include the labels Rag And Bone over the derelict Shawbost mill on and Michelle Obama favourite, J.Crew.The the Isle of Lewis in 2007, the latter loved the Harris tweed jacket company has gone from strength to strength. Despite there being Stwo other working mills on the island, the companynow accounts for more than 90% of the island’sproduction, with a50%

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Section: Magazine Edition: 01 Circulation: 60150 Date: 10 September 2011 Source: ABC February 2009 Page: 6,7

interview

Hogarth was wearing at their meeting “Had Inot got that job as his researcher, last October and instantly said, “That’s who knows? It might have been acompletely what we want.” different career path. But Isuppose that’s Today,Hogarth pairs burgundy jeans and the essence of everybody’slife.There was a awhite shirt with the jacket, which he lot of fate and chance involved.” sheepishly admits he bought off an internet Hogarth continued modelling while work- auction site for £12 many years ago. And ing for Wilson. “Iwould have crazy,bizarre this, he says, was part of the problem when days,”herecalls. “Iremember modelling in Harris Tweed Hebrides started. “We were the morning, doing something for Nike, trying to promote it to ayounger audience then running down to meet constituents at but we knew they would just go out and get aprotest against NHS cuts.”But it worked. good-quality Harris Tweed jackets in “Westminster was afantastic experience – charity shops or on eBay.” thecorridors of power,” says Hogarth. “You But now,with multiple high-fashion could end up in adebate withShirley collaborations under their belt, the textile Williams or Menzies Campbell, trying to is on a “second wave of popularity”. Is this exchange apoint – and that’sthe beauty of down to him? “Far from it,”says Hogarth Westminster.” modestly,putting it down to ateam effort, The experience clearly served him well in specifically that of chairman Brian Wilson, the art of communication and when the the former Labour MP for Cunninghame time came nearly 10 years later for Wilson North, who has been credited in the press to put ateam in place at his newly purchased as the man who saved Harris tweed. Harris Tweed Hebrides, Hogarth knew the Their relationship – both personal and industry and had the chat to carry the business – came aboutthrough fate. “It’s brand forward. quite funny,” smiles Hogarth.“We met about “Isuppose Iwas the natural choice to 10 years ago when Iwas modelling Harris have alook at the image of Harris tweed tweed. It’sreally quite bizarre how it went and see if we could upgrade it,”heconcedes. full circle.” “Being afarmer’sson, you are taught that it’srude to talk about yourself or identify The moment came in 2000, when Wilson, what you’re good at but, yeah, communica- then Scottish Office minister,organised a tion’snever really been aproblem.” promotional show for Harris tweed during which Hogarth was modelling outfits for Vivienne Westwood. “We had an introduc- tion, had abit of alaugh; and then, with me being apolitics graduate, Imanaged to get ajob ayear later as his researcher.” Hogarth had graduated from Strathclyde University with adegree in politics and geography,but when he finished his degree, he put it on the back burner and took to travelling and modelling.“Iwent to univer- sity imagining I’d be ageography teacher – which is ironic considering geography teachers are meant to wear tweed jackets,” he says, laughing. But it was that “moment of coincidence” that brought him to the attention of Wilson.

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interview

One of the first things he did was look synonymous with aristocracy and stuffy old fabric,other clients would come in – because on Wikipedia, which cited Miss Marple and expensive jackets – and to have the ability the quality speaks for itself. Professor Langdon of the Da Vinci Code as to bring it to awider,younger audience was “And there’sthat sea change.There seems fans.“When you’ve got those individuals at fantastic.” to be ashift away from bling and labels; it’s the helm of your image, you know you’ve According to Hogarth, it was the smallest not just about the logo and the designer,it’s got aslight issue. Iknew it was going to be profitmargin forTopman on anything they’d much more about the fabric, the construc- astruggle,”hechuckles. ever sold because it was the most they’d tion of the garment and the story behind it.” But the “perfect product” was always paid for afabric. But the real turning point Ironically,Hogarth never saw himself there, he says. It was down to changing the came when the fashion houses of came working in fashion. He wasn’tafashionable mindset of consumers. “People calling – afortuitous develop- guy,hesays. “If anything, Iprobably had would say Harris tweed is itchy ment down to timing, not luck, contempt for it – if not worse than contempt.” and scratchy.But it’smade for ‘Modelling says Hogarth. DriesVan Noten Modelling meant he lived acharmed life coats and jackets. did an eclectic collection for and went to nice places with “easy exposure “And if anything is cut prop- can be autumn/winter2010, “which to beautiful women”but it wasn’tsomething erly,people will wear it. Girls opened the eyes of some of the he wanted to do for long. “For afarmer’s don’twear sexy,uncomfortable hard other Parisian fashion houses”. boy from Ardrossan, it was certainly quite shoes for nothing. They wear At times, he says, the people an eye opener but the actual modelling part them because they look sexy.I work. I’d who now pass through Storno- of it Ihated,”hesays. “People say it’sdehu- knew we could get over that way include the great and the manising, but that’snonsense; it can actu- image with the strength of the much good of the world’sfashion ally be quite hard work. I’d much rather go aesthetic,”says Hogarth. industry – from -based out and shovel muck on afarm or do ashift With this in mind,the company rather bloggers (“It’slike ahajj for on atractor than stand for 12 hours having aimed straight for fashion, them”) to one of Yves Saint to adjust my positioning.” collaborating with young Scot- shovel Laurent’steam, who was sent It was growing up on afarm that gave tish designers Judy RClark and from Paris in 2010 on alast- Hogarth asolid work ethic.“You’re only ever Deryck Walker on funky new minute tweed run. going to get anywhere if you put in hard collections. And part of the muck on “Our last recollection was this work and commitment. It also taught me revival, Hogarth says, is down guy trying to fold tweed into a you should try to enjoy your work. It’s the to ashift in consumer attitudes. afarm’ taxi, shouting ‘merde’ repeat- most important part of what you do.” “People are more concerned edly,” says Hogarth. “Ithink the Striving for perfection is part of his way about their clothes – and designers have tweed was on the Paris cutting floor by 9pm of working, although he says he’snot a had to respond to that,”hesays. Collaborat- the same day.” workaholic. He’s still interested in politics ing with Topshop, he says, was arisk – but The fabric’sassociation with high fash- – particularly global – but has no interest in one that paid off. The brand didn’twant to ionisseamless. “Harris tweed’sall about being apolitician “at the moment”. be accused of going downmarket but the style, class, sophistication – it’sexpensive,” “Although Idothink agood politician blurring of high design with high street was says Hogarth. “We knew if we could secure should be somebody with abit of charisma,” agood fit.“Alot of Harris tweed had become top clients doing interesting things with the says Hogarth, smiling. n

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Vintage Harris tweed jacket, Marks &Spencer. Stonewash denim shirt, £59, Cos. Black denim skinny jeans, £29.99, H&M. Brown leather brogue shoes, £155, Russell and Bromley

Far right: the Harris Tweed Authority’s Orb, which certifies agarment is made from genuine fabric

StoCkiStS: CoS (0141 223 0020, www.CoSStoReS. CoM); HaRRiS tweed (www.HaRRiStweed HeBRideS.CoM); H&M (www.HM.CoM); HouSe of fRaSeR (0844 800 3728, www.HouSeoffRaSeR. Co.uk); RuSSell & BRoMley (0131 225 7444, 0141 248 6031, www.RuSSelland BRoMley.Co.uk)

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Navy and light blue tweed bomber jacket, £340, by Deryck Walker for Harris Tweed. Navy cotton polo shirt with pale blue trim, £70, JLindberg at House Of Fraser

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Above left: designer Ken Kennedy, at Harris Tweed Hebrides’ Shawbost mill, shows the variety of colours – all taken from the island’snaturally occurring hues – used to create the product that has spawned working relationships with the world’stop fashion houses photograph: KIrStY aNDErSoN

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Gilet, £160, Hibernate for Harris Tweed. Brown and navy cotton checked shirt, £105, Paul Smith at House Of Fraser.Camel chinos, £59, Cos

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Mark Hogarth wears vintage Harris tweed jacket, Marks & Spencer. Other clothing, Mark’s own

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