BUYINGGUIDE MARCH2019

THIS MONTH

2 RHÔNE VALLEY 27 BEAUJOLAIS 42 VENETO 49 TUSCANY 55 OTHER ITALY 55 AUSTRIA 69 SOUTH AFRICA 72 NEW ZEALAND 75 ARGENTINA 79 CALIFORNIA 94 OREGON 106 WASHINGTON 110 CANADA 112 SPIRITS 114

A statue of Ceres, the Roman goddess of agriculture and fertility, in Tain-l’Hermitage, northern Rhône.

FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT WINEMAG.COM/RATINGS ROSEMARY HARRIS/ALMAY ROSEMARY WINEMAG.COM | 1

BUYINGGUIDE

improve through 2035 and hold further. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $67

Maison Denuzière 2014 Les Hauts Lieux RHÔNE VALLEY 94 (Côte-Rôtie). Dried garrigue, smoky gran- A golden era for southern French reds ite and bramble lend an earthen tone to ripe but restrained black plum and cassis in this medium- bodied . It’s still a bit closed and angular. succession of superb from 2015 and more classic produced with Drink 2020–2030. Saranty Imports. Cellar Selec- to 2017 has produced some of the best red exceptional fruit purity and sleeker tannins. tion. —A.I. wines in recent decades throughout the Reds from the 2017 vintage are just hitting the abv: 13% Price: $70 southern and northern Rhône. Winemak- market but are already exhibiting a fantastic mix Aers and critics will be debating for years which of ­concentration and elegance. Ogier 2014 Village (Côte-Rôtie). Notes of smoke, charcuterie and dried lavender vintage reigned supreme. Meanwhile, for con- Here’s the bad news: Maladies like frost, hail 94 introduce velvety layers of black and plum sumers, it’s simply an unmissable opportunity and mildew devastated yields in the southern in this . Briskly composed and light on its to drink up. Rhône in 2017. Prices have undoubtedly crept feet, this vibrant but penetrating Syrah is encased The 2015 vintage will be upwards for iconic appella- in fine, integrated tannins. Still quite youthful it remembered for its power and tions like Châteauneuf-du-Pape should improve through 2035 and hold further. Winemakers and Robert Kacher Selections. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. structure. The -based and . However, excel- abv: 12.5% Price: $80 wines of the south are intensely critics will be lent value can still be found in ripe and concentrated, while debating for years the crus of , Domaine Champet 2014 Grand Vin La Vial- even in the north—where Syrah which vintage and Lirac. Treasures also abound 93 lière (Côte-Rôtie). Violet petals and pristine is known for its elegance and in regional bottlings of Côtes- black earthier tones of garrigue reigned supreme. and bramble in this brisk, freshly composed Syrah. cutting acidity—the reds are du-Rhône Villages and under­ Light bodied and robed with fine, firm tannins, it’s a uncharacteristically hedonistic. appreciated appellations like vibrant, youthful wine that should improve through In both cases, cellaring before opening is recom- Costières de Nîmes and Luberon. 2025 and hold further. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. mended, as massive tannins make these wines Recent yields in the north have been health- abv: 12.5% Price: $50 ­exceptionally ageworthy and almost unapproach- ier than the south, but the north produces less able when young. than 5% of all Rhône Valley wines by quantity. SAINT-JOSEPH The 2016 vintage was marked by ripeness In recent years, prices for Côte-Rôtie, Hermitage and intensity calibrated by freshness and detail. and Cornas have all risen. Remarkable values are Delas Frères 2015 Les Challeys (Saint- In the south, wines are ripe and deeply concen- still found from less expensive appellations like 90 Joseph). Black-plum and berry flavors are trated but keenly balanced by minerality, acidic Crozes-Hermitage and Saint-Joseph. intensely ripe in this full-bodied Saint-Joseph. It’s a concentrated, almost ruddy, wine freshened cut and structured tannins. In the north, a cooler Drink up! —Anna Lee C. Iijima by tangy blackberry acidity and hints of granite and spice that linger on the finish. Tannins are fine-grained and integrated. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $19 CÔTE-RÔTIE through 2035 and hold further. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Cellar Selection. —A.I. Delas Frères 2015 La Landonne (Côte-Rôtie). abv: 13.5% Price: $112 CROZES-HERMITAGE 97 Smoky tones of charcuterie and dried gar- rigue meld into ripe, luscious black plum and cassis Rémi Niero 2015 Eminence (Côte-Rôtie). E. Guigal 2015 Crozes-Hermitage. The nose here. A rich, densely concentrated Syrah, it’s keenly 95 Lavender and violet perfume extends from 91 is subtle on this elegant Syrah but the pal- balanced by crisp acidity and firm mineral tones. nose to finish in this aromatic Syrah. Black-plum ate opens gradually to introduce layer upon layer of The finish is endless and unctuous, cushioned by and cherry flavors are juicy yet spry, balanced by silky, sun-kissed blackberry and plum flavors. It’s sweet spice and silky, supple tannins. Gorgeous crisp acidity and tangs of crushed granite. Ripe, fine ripe but restrained, muted by a granitic mineral already it will only improve through 2027 and hold tannins accentuate its supple style. Lovely already it tone and crisp red-currant acidity. The long fin- further. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Cellar should gain complexity well through 2030 and hold ish lingers on fine, framing tannins. Ready now it Selection. —A.I. further. Kysela Père et Fils. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. should improve through 2025, hold further. Vintus abv: 14% Price: $280 abv: 13.5% Price: $88 LLC. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $28 Delas Frères 2016 Seigneur De Maugiron Delas Frères 2015 Seigneur de Maugiron 95 (Côte-Rôtie). Perfumed notes of violet and 94 (Côte-Rôtie). Ripe, juicy blackberry and Arnoux & Fils 2015 Chapelle-St-Arnoux wild thyme introduce the penetrating black-cherry mulberry flavors are muted by darker shades of 90 (Crozes-Hermitage). An excellent value and plum flavors of this wine. It’s bristling and dried garrigue, bramble and earth in this bold but for such an elegant wine, this medium-bodied vibrant, darkened by shades of bramble and gar- balanced Syrah. It’s black-fruit flavors are luscious Syrah offers pert blackberry flavor edged by lay- rigue. Concentrated and held upright by fine, firm and youthful still, vibrantly edged with acidity and tannins, it’s already lovely but should improve briskly textured tannins. Enjoyable now it should Continued on page 18

2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander­ ­Peartree, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor ­Lauren ­Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams, Tasting Coordinator Carrie Dykes, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in ; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Crown Point 2015 Estate Selection (Happy Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; and 97 Canyon of Santa Barbara). Dark and thick Bien Nacido Estate 2015 LXXIII Reserve Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in ­Washington. in appearance, this estate blend from winemaker 96 (Santa Maria Valley). Intense If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s Adam Henkel and proprietor Roger Bower shows a cranberry aromas meet with smoked pork roast, initials appear following the . When no initials appear fol- lowing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more tremendous cassis aroma, with splashes of smoke, crushed slate and pinches of sage, thyme and white reviewers­ and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all dried purple flowers and baking spice. The palate pepper on the nose of this luxury-level bottling. The tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. begins with a lavish entry of polished tannins that palate is florally flush in touches of rose and tar- Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its still have some teeth, providing tension that carries ragon, set against snappy red-plum fruit and racy suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us the dark fruit flavors deep into the finish. —M.K. acidity. —M.K. by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices abv: 15.5% Price: $150 abv: 13.5% Price: $100 are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Joseph Phelps 2015 Insignia Estate Grown Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; 97 (Napa Valley). This vintage of the Bien Nacido Estate 2015 The Captain Reserve often good value. perennial knockout is exceptional—a concentrated Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Part of the Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- 96 critical circumstances. blend of 90% , 7% Petit Verdot, historic ’s new reserve line, this intense wine Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 2% and 1% . Pencil shavings, delivers a roasted pork aroma against black cherry, points) are not reviewed. red currant and red plum are complemented by hints dried rose petals and charred wood. There is a com- SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS of crushed rock and cocoa, with persistent acidity pelling sharpness of cranberry, pomegranate and Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent qual- maintaining balance. Like so many of its forebears, raspberry flavors on the palate, with hints of green ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price this is a wine well worth cellaring; enjoy 2025–2035. peppercorn, moss and tea leaves. —M.K. with unique qualities that merit special attention. Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $100 and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled to abv: 14.5% Price: $275 reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. Wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less, and are designated Best Buys after surpassing a specific quality-to-price ratio benchmark. SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing lo- cation as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/ contact-us. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast. net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be Patrimony 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site. 97 (Adelaida­ District). The Daou brothers are LABELS intent on making this brand the most expensive and Center of Effort 2015 Pinot Noir (Edna Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given luxurious in Paso Robles. This vintage begins with 96 Valley).­ Dark raspberry, packed lilacs, the opportunity to submit labels only after the reviews have been intense aromas of roasted blackberry, tangy black- crushed lavender and a hint of game make for a finalized and assigned to a specific issue. Labels are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information plum skin and crushed peppercorn. The palate is powerful yet elegant nose. The palate is framed by on label ­purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax expertly layered in flavors of cassis, caramel, gravel, strong, silty and grippy tannins, with zippy acidity 866.896.8786; or email [email protected]. loam, cocoa and a hint of licorice. The tannins are that delivers flavors of black raspberry, pepper spice Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at firm but already approachable. —M.K. and roasted boar. —M.K. winemag.com/ratings abv: 14.7% Price: $275 abv: 14.4% Price: $50

WINEMAG.COM | 3

BUYINGGUIDE

Daou 2015 Mayote (Adelaida District). Domaine Serene 2015 Mark Bradford Vine- Williams Selyem 2016 Weir Pinot 96 Always one of the most immediately deli- 95 yard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This is 95 Noir (Yorkville Highlands). Great ripeness cious and powerful wines in the Daou brothers’ sourced from the oldest vineyard on the estate, a comes with great balance in this fruity, expressive portfolio, this blend of 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, high-elevation site now reaching optimum matu- and firm-textured wine. It is full in body but not 42% Syrah and 16% Petit Verdot shows intense rity. The flavors are a deep, densely textured mix of flabby due to sinewy tannins and persistent acid- black fruit, roasted coffee and charred meat on black fruits, cocoa powder and baking spices. It’s a ity. Aromas and flavors run from cinnamon to black the nose. It’s luxuriously soft yet firmly framed by stunning bottle, delicious now and a choice cellar cherry to rhubarb, as hints of nutmeg and vanilla polished tannins on the palate, where black plum, candidate through 2030. Cellar Selection. —P.G. show a deft touch of . Best from 2022.Cellar espresso and caramel flavors dominate.Editors’ abv: 14.5% Price: $130 Selection. —J.G. Choice. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $62 abv: 14.9% Price: $100

Iron Horse 2014 Wedding Cuvée Estate Bot- 95 tled (Green ­Valley). A blend Allegrini 2014 Amarone della Valpolicella of 72% Pinot Noir and 28% , this is 94 Classico. Exotic spice, mature black-skinned Daou 2015 Soul of a Lion (Adelaida District). a stunning vintage of the perennially impressive fruit, espresso and French oak are just some of the 96 Intense aromas of smoke, black currant sparkler. Nutty and earthy, it sings in strawberry, aromas you’ll find on this delicious, full-bodied red. and crushed purple flowers make for an impressive wet stone and rose petal. The palate offers a lively Boasting an enviable combination of concentrated entry to this blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, mousse and persistent acidity, making it vibrant flavors and elegance, it delivers flavors of ripe black 13% Cabernet Franc and 11% Petit Verdot. The pal- and easy to enjoy. —V.B. cherry, prune steeped in spirits, vanilla bean and ate combines the tang of plum skin and dimpled abv: 13.5% Price: $45 licorice framed by enveloping fine-grained tannins. berries with flavors of peppercorn, violet and grav- Fresh acidity lifts the rich flavors while a coffee elly minerality. —M.K. note lingers on the finish. Drink through 2026. LUX abv: 14.7% Price: $125 Wines. —K.O. abv: 15.5% Price: $75

Williams Selyem 2016 Vista Verde Vineyard 95 Pinot Noir (San Benito County). Beautifully Bien Nacido Estate 2015 The XO Reserve plump aromas of black plum, violet, rose and baked 95 Syrah (Santa Maria Valley). From a block fennel show on the nose of this bottling. Soft and Aperture 2017 (Bennett planted in 1987, this bottling offers an extremely full on the palate, it offers plenty of fruit surround- 94 Valley). This is a barrel-fermented white fresh, bright and snappy black raspberry aroma, ing the earthy core, with flavors of wild cherry, that impresses from start to finish, with 4% Sémil- with deeper tones of tar, char and coffee in the cherry pit, Alpine strawberry, loam and herb. Edi- lon added to the mix. A sublime white-peach flavor background. The palate is all about grippy tannins, tors’ Choice. —M.K. is layered and well-integrated within a stony tex- roasted berries and white pepper spice. Drink now– abv: 13.7% Price: $59 ture. Offering length and breadth, this is defined by 2035. Cellar Selection. —M.K. an exotic spice note that lingers. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $100 abv: 14.1% Price: $35

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 Domaine Serene 2015 Aspect Pinot Noir 94 (Dundee Hills). This is a blend of fruit from Big Table Farm 2016 Sunnyside Vineyard the Mark Bradford, Grace and Côte Sud . 94 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). A ripe cherry Designed as a snapshot of the estate’s overall ter- Dutton-Goldfield 2016 Dutton Ranch Walker aroma pops from the glass, with a light accent of roir, it succeeds admirably, resulting in a smooth, 94 Hill Chardonnay (Green Valley). This white milk chocolate in the background. The fruit is so forward and inviting wine which is ready for near- has an expert level of intensity and concentration, rich and appealing that it takes a moment or two term consumption. Lovely red berry and cherry and plenty of length within its balanced frame. Fla- for the extra nuances to filter through—cinnamon, fruit is highlighted by nuanced threads of tea and vors of lemon meringue, brioche and apricot are cedar and even a whiff of musk. These details con- tobacco. The wine spent 18 months in half new complemented by wet stone. —V.B. tribute to a most expressive wine that shows power French oak barrels. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $50 and aging potential. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $125 abv: 14.3% Price: $62

Dutton-Goldfield 2016 Fox Den Vineyard Domaine Serene 2015 Winery Hill Vineyard 94 ­Pinot Noir (Green Valley). This wine is beau- Daou 2016 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 94 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Tightly wound tifully fruity in tones of cranberry, strawberry and 94 (Paso Robles). Inky in the glass, this rich fruit flavors strike a sharp raspberry note, with raspberry, with perfumed wafts of rose and lavender and structured bottling offers a plump black-­ a zesty highlight of orange peel emphasizing the on the nose. It’s light in body, driven by bright acid- currant aroma, along with pinches of pepper and bright acidity. The concentration and length are ity that keeps it fresh and inviting. A silky display of tightly woven oak. The palate lands softly and admirable, suggesting that this wine will age very Asian spice rings on the finish. —V.B. then the tannins rise up, offering savory flavors of well over the next decade. Drink through 2030. Cel- abv: 13.5% Price: $62 charred beef, dark chocolate and black cherry. Drink lar Selection. —P.G. 2020–2036. Cellar­ Selection. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $100 abv: 14.5% Price: $56

Martian Ranch 2016 Absolute Magnitude 94 Noir (Santa Barbara County). The DeLille 2017 Chaleur Blanc (Columbia Val- Donum 2016 Year of the Monkey Single slow rise of Gamay Noir on the Central Coast shows 94 ley). The wine’s aromas are arresting in 94 Vineyard Chardonnay (Carneros). This is a immense promise for lovers of mineral inflected, notes of lemon pith, herb, stone fruit, fig, spice, structured and remarkable wine, bursting in ten- lighter styles of wine. This bottling offers wet slate mineral and . Full-bodied, layered and exqui- sion and complexity. High toned, it dances lightly and gravel on the nose along with sagebrush and sitely balanced fruit flavors follow with a zing of on the palate in bolts of tangerine, Meyer lemon and light berries. The palate’s tart cranberry fruit takes a electric, lemony acidity stitching it all together. The green apple, with a jasmine note providing a pleas- backseat to wet rocks, tobacco leaf and mossy forest fig- and tropical fruit-filled finish seems near end- ing complement. —V.B. floor.Editors’ Choice. —M.K. less. It’s showing beautifully now, but should only abv: 13.8% Price: $60 abv: 14.1% Price: $40 get better with some time in the cellar. Best 2020– 2025. Cellar Selection. —S.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $35

WINEMAG.COM | 5

BUYINGGUIDE

Speri 2013 Vigneto Monte Sant’Urbano Williams Selyem 2016 Foss Vineyard Pinot Williams Selyem 2016 Williams Selyem 94 (­Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). 94 Noir (Russian River Valley). Bright, crunchy 94 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River ­Enticing scents of spiced plum, pipe tobacco, red fruit effuses ripeness in this lushly layered wine. Valley). Smoky, toasty oak plays a stellar back- crushed mint, new leather and a whiff of smoke Black tea, forest and cedar pierce through, making ground role to this wine’s succulence of black come to the forefront. The full-bodied, velvety pal- for a complementary experience that intrigues with cherry, raspberry and blood orange. Acid-driven on ate boasts dried cherry, raspberry compote, star complexity. —V.B. the palate, it presents plenty of secondary charac- anise and a graphite note. Fine-grained tannins abv: 14.1% Price: $62 teristics that lean into savory tones of black tea and provide the firm but elegant framework while fresh cardamom. —V.B. acidity keeps it balanced. Drink through 2025. abv: 13.6% Price: $105 Empson USA Ltd. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $80

Williams Selyem 2016 Lewis MacGregor 94 Estate Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Winderlea 2016 Winderlea Legacy Pinot Noir Valley). This is a grainy, structured and textured 94 (Dundee Hills). This is a limited selection white, lifted by bright acidity and crisp flavors of from the estate’s original vines planted in the mid- apple, peach and pear. It has concentration of fla- 1970s. Tart berry and citrus flesh and zest introduce Thirty-Seven 2015 Grenache (Sonoma vor as well as tension, offering length and balance a balanced, almost ethereal wine, with notes of wet 94 Coast). This remarkable wine impresses in within an elegant framework. —V.B. stone and green tea. It’s a testament to the excep- quality and price, made in tiny amounts but well abv: 14.7% Price: $65 tional care paid to these biodynamic vines, and the worth seeking. A bright, earthy entry of wild straw- intent of the winemaker to emphasize delicacy over berry and raspberry fill the full-bodied palate that’s power. —P.G. grippy in tension and powerful in weight. Editors’ abv: 12% Price: $85 Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $26

Williams Selyem 2016 Rochioli Riverblock 94 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). From a site the heart of the appellation, and a block- designate at that, this is an exuberant and intensely Winzer Krems 2017 Ried Kremser Pfaffen- flavored wine, with tones of black cherry, smoke and 94 berg Reserve (Kremstal). Just Williams Selyem 2016 Allen Vineyard Pinot forest floor. It builds power as it sits in the glass, a touch of passion fruit amid the wonderfully 94 Noir (Russian River Valley). High toned and finishing on a lush, seductive texture. —V.B. pure lemon nose suggests generosity. The palate perfumed, this wine has ample texture and struc- abv: 14.2% Price: $85 is zesty and juicy, with a lovely, tingling and pure ture. Rose, lavender and blood orange effuse from freshness that is quite invigorating. That lovely the glass, before powerful waves of strawberry com- zestiness runs from beginning to end and culmi- pote and rhubarb shoot through hoops of savory nates on a dry, mouthwatering finish. Multiple minerality. —V.B. U.S. importers. —A.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $85 abv: 14% Price: $27

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 Boekenhoutskloof 2015 Syrah (Swartland). 93 There’s good concentration to the nose of this wine, which for the first time carries a Swart- Williams Selyem 2016 Burt Williams’ Morn- land appellation as the fruit is sourced from the 93 ing Dew Ranch Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). winery’s two properties there, Porseleinberg and Epiphany 2016 Colson Canyon Vineyard This medium- to full-bodied wine offers ripe fruit Goldmine. Medium-intense aromas of black plum, 93 Syrah (Santa Barbara County). Roasted figs, flavors and has a bold, moderately tannic texture cherry and fig paste are hit by notes of licorice, grilled pork, bacon fat and coffee provide a that fills the mouth. To its credit, the wine shows black tea and peppercorn. The palate is plush, with deliciously savory profile on the nose of this bot- some restraint in the firm acidity and almost tangy a pleasant tannic grip that frames the robust black- tling. Blackberry meets with smoke on the finish, so it keeps one coming back for another sip. fruit flavors. Lingering sensations of brambly berry, palate, where strong tannins uphold the wine’s Drink through 2026. Cellar Selection. —J.G. tilled earth, olive tapenade and a touch of cocoa seal medium weight. —M.K. abv: 13.6% Price: $85 the deal. Drink 2021–2025. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $40 abv: 14% Price: $69

Williams Selyem 2016 Calegari Vineyard Cave Spring 2017 Estate Riesling (Beamsville Jax 2017 Dutton Ranch 7 Barrels Chardonnay 93 ­Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This is an 93 Bench). Sourced from the estate’s oldest 93 (Russian River Valley). Tart, tangy and invit- Eastside Road hillside site that contributes bal- vines, this mineral-drenched, bone-dry wine fills ing, this medium-bodied wine shows deft layers of anced weight and smooth, seductive texture to this the palate with texture and deep flavors. Rather than succulent fruit over a smooth texture. Flavors of wine. With flavors of red cherry and raspberry, it flesh, the emphasis is on skin phenolics—grapefruit lemongrass, anise and Meyer lemon are carried by has texture and complexity, with touches of Asian pith and peel in particular. There’s a sense of light a flowing river of acidity. —V.B. spice and black tea. —V.B. oiliness, not at all unpleasant, and a graceful, linger- abv: 14.2% Price: $40 abv: 13.7% Price: $62 ing finish.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 11.5% Price: $18

Williams Selyem 2016 Ferrington Vineyard 93 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). A deep color, De Loach 2016 Ritchie Vineyard Middle Reach Niner 2016 JR Reserve Chardonnay (Edna gorgeous fruit aromas and mouthfilling richness 93 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This 93 Valley). Bright aromas of lemon skin and make this full-bodied wine memorable. The aro- white opens with a bright honeysuckle note on the grapefruit pith are enveloped in strong chalky mas show everything from strawberry to nose, leading to a palate of moderate structure and scents on the nose of this wine. There is tremen- cherries to cinnamon, while the flavors are fully ripe grip. Lightly textured and demure, it finish is mem- dous tension to the palate, where fresh flavors of without seeming fat or sweet. —J.G. orable in flavors of apple and nutmeg. —V.B. golden apple meet with honey, butter and toast that abv: 13.7% Price: $65 abv: 14.5% Price: $52 lead to a chalky finish. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

WINEMAG.COM | 7

BUYINGGUIDE

Zaca Mesa 2016 Inceptive Estate Vineyard Elephant Seven 2016 Yellow Bird Vine- Heritance 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- 93 Red Wine (Santa Ynez Valley). A blend of 92 yard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). This wine 92 ley). With lasting tension and a good build- Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre aged in concrete comes from the Upper Mill Creek area of the val- up of fresh acidity, this is a well-made white that and neutral oak, this bottling offers concentrated ley and is blended with 8% Viognier. The aromas offers fruity notes of white peach and apple. It has aromas of black plum, strawberry paste, wild thyme are perfumed in tones of flowers and freshly peeled enough creaminess to be pleasurable on the palate, and black pepper. That pepper carries deep in the oranges, while raspberry and plum notes become but ultimately is well built and balanced. —V.B. palate, spicing up the black plum, tangy berry and more prominent over time. The palate brings an abv: 14.2% Price: $18 caramelized pork flavors. It finishes on a lingering elegant blueberry flavor, with swoon-worthy purity violet note. —M.K. and balance that carries through the long finish. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $37

JCB 2015 N0 11 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). 92 This is a big-boned, robustly flavored red that offers concentrated tones of dark cherry and Château de Pierreux 2016 Grande Réserve raspberry, with bolts of Asian spice. Sizable tannins 92 (Brouilly). This structured wine has layers Famille Perrin 2015 La Gille (Gigondas). support the richness of the fruit, coating the palate of black fruits, rich tannins and spice. Wood aging 92 Fleshy plums and supple, baby-soft tannins with aplomb and complexity. —V.B. and time in bottle have softened the ripe fruit and encapsulate this wine’s luscious, rounded character. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 acidity to produce a dense, velvet-textured wine Black fruit flavors are a touch preserved on the pal- that has an open and a juicy finish. Drink now. ate, but accented by hints of dried sage, thyme and Boisset Collection. —R.V. dark chocolate. Granite tones lend freshness and abv: 14% Price: $29 minerality to a lingering finish. Drink now–2025. Vineyard Brands. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $39

Donum 2016 Year of the Monkey Single 92 Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Val- ley). Made entirely from old Wente clone vines, Foxen 2016 Williamson-Doré Vineyard Syrah Justin 2015 Savant (Paso Robles). The this structured wine offers a steely core of lemon, 92 (Los Olivos District). Crystallized boysen- 92 nose on this blend of 80% Syrah and 20% green apple and honey. There’s balanced acidity on berry and lilac aromas are boosted by black pep- ­Cabernet Sauvignon starts with boysenberry, cara- the palate, with floral accents of apple and orange percorn on the clean nose. There is chalky grip mel, cocoa and fresh purple-flower aromas. The blossoms. —V.B. and bright acidity on the full-bodied palate, where palate is framed by lush tannins, carrying a black abv: 14.3% Price: $60 jasmine and violet flavors lead into a candied cherry flavor that leads into a coffee and crème tone. —M.K. brûlée finish. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $48 abv: 15% Price: $50

8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 MacPhail 2016 Mardikian Estate Pinot Noir Robert Hall 2016 Cavern Select­ Dusi Vineyard Les Belles Collines 2016 Chardonnay (Rus- 92 (Sonoma Coast). This estate-grown wine is 92 (Paso Robles). Sourced from the 92 sian River Valley). Smooth and stony in min- made in small amounts and is bursting with com- region’s most historic vineyard, this wine starts with eral elements, this is a complex, medium-bodied plexity. Tightly structured, it’s peppery, intense aromas of racy boysenberry, exotic black plum and and structured white. It is well defined in bold fla- and tannic, with concentrated fruit flavors of wood smoke. The palate combines flavors of smoke, vors of green apple, melon and Meyer lemon. —V.B. ­pomegranate and cassis. A lingering note of black snappy berries and red currants with a floral aspect. abv: 14.7% Price: $40 tea marks the finish. Enjoy from 2021–2026.Cellar Editors’ Choice. —M.K. Selection. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $42 abv: 14.5% Price: $90

Les Belles Collines 2016 Pinot Noir (Sonoma 92 Coast). This is a juicy wine that’s richly Robert Hall 2016 Cavern Select G-S-M (Paso woven in flavors of dark cherry, plum, cola and nut- Mommessin 2017 Côte du Py (Morgon). The 92 Robles). The investment in quality prom- meg. Big and bold, it remains in balance through a 92 granite soils of this great vineyard give ised by this winery’s new owners, O’Neill Vintners burly midpalate and lengthy finish. —V.B. intense minerality and structure to this wine. Black & Distillers, seem to be paying off in the recent abv: 14.5% Price: $50 fruits shine through, built up by bright acidity and releases. This blend of 34% Grenache, 34% Syrah structured tannins. This will develop into a rich and 32% Mourvèdre shows aromas of black cur- wine, concentrated while always having a fresh rant, violet and soil on the rich nose. The palate is edge. Boisset Collection. —R.V. intense in flavors of meat and black fruit, yet lifted abv: 14% Price: $25 by a hint of lavender and framed by balanced tan- nins and acidity. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $45

Louis Bernard 2015 Gigondas. Intensely 92 ripe black-cherry and mulberry aromas are muted by shades of forest floor, porcini and dried violet in this full-bodied wine. The black fruit fla- vors are lavishly fruity but balanced by complexi- ties of earth, leather and charcuterie. This inviting but stately wine should drink well through 2025. Niner 2016 JR Reserve Pinot Noir (Edna Robert Hall 2015 Cavern Select Petite Sirah Boisset Collection. —A.I. 92 Valley). Fresh and lively on the nose, this 92 (Paso Robles). Joyous aromas of black cur- abv: 13.5% Price: $35 bottling by Molly Bohlman offers aromas of baked rant are spiced by pepper and charred meat on the boysenberry, savory caramelized pork and purple nose. There’s a violet aspect to the palate that floats flowers. Grippy and chalky tannins are fairly rigid on above a backdrop of game, singed sage and coffee the palate, offering flavors of dark cherry, plum and ­flavors. —M.K. thyme. Drink 2020–2031. Cellar ­Selection. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $36 abv: 14.5% Price: $65

WINEMAG.COM | 9

BUYINGGUIDE

Williams Selyem 2016 Allen Vineyard Char- Williams Selyem 2016 Vista Verde Vineyard Ashbourne 2015 Pinotage (Hemel-en-Aarde 92 donnay (Russian River Valley). This is an 92 Late Gewürztraminer (San Benito 91 Valley). There’s a mentholated lift to the integrated, well-made white, with juicy acidity and a County). As one of the more expressive dessert nose of this wine, but it also comes across as slightly robust ripeness. Grainy apple, pear and lemon flavors wines from the region, this bottling offers aromas liquorous and thick in feel, though not obnoxiously provide texture as additional accents of nutmeg, lem- of candied honeysuckle, tuberose, plumeria and so. Notes of fresh herbs, fennel and rooibos all con- ongrass and tea intrigue. —V.B. lime balm on the nose. The unctuous and thick pal- tribute to its lifted character, whichcounters ­ the abv: 14.6% Price: $65 ate is balanced by a slick acidity, allowing honey, denser notes of plum skin, pressed carnation and flowers and citrus flavors to make for an ambrosial sweet spice. It’s big and concentrated on the palate, ­experience. —M.K. with firm tannins and dry, black fruit-skin flavors abv: 19.2% Price: $40/375 ml alongside tones of licorice, tree bark and bramble. Give this some time; try after 2022. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $58

Williams Selyem 2016 Coastlands Vineyard 92 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). A spicy white- pepper note opens this wine. Root beer, black cherry and firm tannins combine for a beefy midpalate of Williams Selyem 2016 Williams Selyem freshness and power. —V.B. 92 Estate Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Bellingham 2017 The Old Orchards Chenin abv: 14.1% Price: $75 Valley). This is a new wine from the producer’s 91 Blanc (Paarl). Woody, rich and concentrated, Westside Road property. Soft and approachable, it the nose of this wine shows some serious deca- has crisp, steely acidity that carries flavors of wet dence in the yellow apple, baked pear, yellow melon stone and lemon peel. It takes on a broader sense flesh, honeycomb and spiced orange aromas. The of lushness as it opens on the midpalate, presenting medium-weight palate boasts a nice balance, with bold flavors of peach and apricot. —V.B. ample acidity to cut through the ripe, spicy fruit abv: 14.5% Price: $65 tones and a lingering pithy impression for textural interest through the close. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $17

Williams Selyem 2016 Lewis MacGregor 92 ­Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Light, plush and dancing in dark cherry and strawberry tones, this estate wine is soft and pil- lowy on the palate. A tangy citrus undertone rides Winderlea 2016 Winderlea Vineyard Pinot along a backdrop of black tea, nutmeg and turned 92 Noir (Dundee Hills). Decanting is strongly earth. —V.B. recommended, as this old-vine, biodynamically abv: 14.2% Price: $85 farmed wine is shut tight when first opened. Pri- Bonterra 2016 The Roost Blue Heron Vineyard mary fruit flavors of strawberry and cherry gather 91 Chardonnay (Mendocino County). Plump and weight with airing, and the wonderful purity of the buttery, this medium-bodied wine pours on the wine begins to shine. The lengthy finish is detailed vanilla, butter and baking spice flavors, with a rich, by herb, berry and citrus—subtle, well-integrated layered texture that’s soothing on the palate. Made flavors that suggest a long life ahead. Drink now from biodynamic , it is well concentrated but through the late 2020s. Cellar Selection. —P.G. not too heavy. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $60 abv: 13.5% Price: $40

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 Crū 2017 Albariño (Edna Valley). Clean and Crū 2017 Solomon Hills Vineyard Pinot Noir 91 tight on the nose, this bottling offers lemon 91 (Santa Maria Valley). This light-hued bot- juice, chalk, wet river stone and sharp, grassy aromas. tling offers candied strawberry, fresh berry, wild Center of Effort 2015 Chardonnay (Edna Val- There is great acidity and strong tension to the pal- thyme and sage on the nose. There’s a slightly green, 91 ley). Aromas of toasted marshmallow, nuts ate that grabs the tongue and won’t let go, weaving almost cannabis element to the palate, which gives and ripe apple meet with a steely, racy seam on the through flavors of lemon-lime and Anjou pear. —M.K. intriguing depth to the bright red fruit. —M.K. nose of this bottling. There’s an orange-rind edge to abv: 12.4% Price: $20 abv: 13.9% Price: $60 the bright palate, providing freshness to balance the richer cashew and almond flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $35

Crū 2017 Clone 113 Solomon Hills Vineyard 91 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Light in the De Loach 2016 Heintz Vineyard Chardonnay glass, this clonal expression from a fantastic vine- 91 (Green Valley). This coastal-influenced wine Château de Saint-Amour 2017 Saint-Amour. yard offers aromas of sour cherry and dried thyme is rich in tones of vanilla and pear. It’s thick, com- 91 This rich wine offers a dense black-fruit fla- on the nose. It’s light and acid-driven on the palate, plex and full bodied, yet appropriately balanced, vor that sits on firm tannins. The juicy acidity and where mouthwatering flavors of sage and straw- with a lingering note of savory nutmeg. —V.B. fruitiness are still up front and need to calm down in berry lead into a tense finish. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $52 order to give this wine its ripe character. Drink from abv: 13.9% Price: $80 2020. Quintessential Wines. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

Crū 2017 French Camp Vineyard Viognier Hess Collection 2016 The Lioness Estate Château des Capitans 2017 Estate Bottled 91 (Paso Robles). Guava and bubblegum aromas 91 Grown Chardonnay (Napa Valley). This has 91 (Juliénas). One of the Duboeuf wines that are very clean and cut by a steely edge on the nose. balanced richness in spades, offering a full-bodied, is bottled at the estate, this is rich, spicy and full The palate tightens up considerably, offering tense soft embrace of caramel and crème brûlée flavors. of ripe tannins. A dense black-fruit flavor suggests lemon skin and chalky tones against rounded white- Bold and beautiful, it will appeal to fans of a fleshy power which is accompanied by juicy acidity. Age peach and guava flavors. —M.K. style. —V.B. this wine and drink from 2020. Quintessential abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 14.8% Price: $65 Wines. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $22

WINEMAG.COM | 11

BUYINGGUIDE

J. Lohr 2017 Falcon’s Perch Pinot Noir (Mon- 91 terey County). Aromas of baked red cherry, King Estate 2017 Chardonnay (Willamette Quady North 2017 Pistoleta (Rogue rose and fennel lead into a palate loaded with 91 Valley). A solid example of an emerging 91 Valley).­ Herb Quady’s proprietary blend of strawberry, sagebrush, thyme and loamy soil. The Oregon style, this is a classy mix of fruit and barrel, co­fermented Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne is mouthfeel is full yet cut by strong acidity. Editors’ melon and toast. The fruit rambles into the edges finished with a splash of Grenache Blanc and Ver- Choice. —M.K. of a tropical profile, with suggestions of banana and mentino. An aromatic delight, it sends up beguiling abv: 13.5% Price: $17 papaya. There’s a slight impression of cream on the scents of orange blossom, lemon rind and apricot palate. —P.G. fruit. It’s deep, ripe and rich, bursting with fresh abv: 13.5% Price: $22 fruit flavors that are buoyed with tangy acidity.Edi - tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.6% Price: $20

J. Wilkes 2017 Chardonnay (Santa Maria Val- La Crema 2016 Pinot Noir (Willamette Val- 91 ley). Lime peel, green pear, lemongrass and 91 ley). What’s most notable for such a big pro- wet river stone combine for an inviting and complex duction wine is that it was sourced entirely from nose. There is strong chalky tension to the palate, two estate vineyards rather than assembled from Rancho Sisquoc 2016 Flood Family Vineyards where a flavor of Key lime pie is wrapped in bright purchased fruit. Supple flavors of berry, plum and 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Barbara County). acid. —M.K. baked cherry spread broadly across the palate, This is a throwback to a more savory style of Caber- abv: 13.5% Price: $22 with highlights of cocoa and tobacco. The finish is net Sauvignon that was once the norm in California. smooth as silk. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Aromas of crushed oregano, peppercorn and pencil abv: 14.5% Price: $30 shavings lead into a palate that is full in rocky min- erality and dried herbs, but there’s also dark cran- berry fruit to round it out. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

Jax 2017 Y3 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). This 91 is a concentrated and layered concrete-­ Lievland 2017 Bushvine Pinotage (Paarl). fermented white. Apple, pear and mango figure 91 This is ripe and fruit-forward upfront, with into the flavor profile, with a dusting of nutmeg and abundant aromas of brambly berry and cherry that clove tones. —V.B. are partnered with delicate scents of violet and Rancho Sisquoc 2016 Flood Family Vineyards abv: 14.1% Price: $20 baking spice. The texture is smooth as silk, with 91 Malbec (Santa Barbara County). Freshly medium acidity and fine tannins that are soft yet smashed red-currant and blackberry aromas pro- lend ample structure to the palate. It’s pristine and vide a bright and accessible nose. The palate is lay- laser focused, with great purity and a fresh red- ered with tobacco, mint and plum flavors, and there berry flavor that endures on the finish. Vineyard is good acidic zip to the lively feel. —M.K. Brands. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $32 abv: 13.5% Price: $19

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 Rancho Sisquoc 2016 Flood Family Vineyards Williams Selyem 2016 Eastside Road Neigh- 91 Syrah (Santa Barbara County). Ripe black- 91 bors Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). High- berry and black-cherry aromas meet with tar on the toned and floral, this blend of several ­Eastside Road Allegrini 2015 Palazzo della Torre rich nose of this bottling. The palate begins with a vineyards is soft and approachable. Moderately 90 (Veronese).­ Forest floor, mature plum, tangy grip that leads into elderflower and elderberry structured, it allows the delicate layers of dried menthol and exotic spice aromas lift out of the flavors, along with lavender on the finish. —M.K. herb, cola and dark cherry to shine, lifted by lemony glass. On the smooth, savory palate, fine-grained abv: 14.4% Price: $25 acidity. —V.B. tannins wrap around dried cherry, prune and star abv: 13.8% Price: $59 anise. Drink through 2021. LUX Wines. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

Sartori 2014 Estate Collection (Amarone della 91 Valpolicella). Aromas of dark-skinned berry, Williams Selyem 2016 Precious Mountain underbrush and pipe tobacco lead the nose. The 91 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). From a Ancient Peaks 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon full-bodied palate delivers dried black cherry, rasp- dry-farmed coastal site, this is a grippy, concentrated 90 (Santa Margarita Ranch). Floral aromas of berry jam and licorice alongside polished tannins. wine full of powerful tannins. Dried herb, tea, blood violet and cherry blossom drop into rich black-cherry Banfi Vintners. —K.O. orange and pomegranate combine for a force of flavor and cocoa tones on the nose of this widely avail- abv: 15% Price: $55 as the wine broods and develops. —V.B. able bottling. The palate is juicy in black cherry and abv: 14.3% Price: $95 blackberry flavors, with accents of oak and cracked pepper, all framed by a chalky texture. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $22

Williams Selyem 2016 Drake Estate Vineyard 91 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). An ele- Williams Selyem 2012 Vista Verde Vineyard gantly structured medium-bodied white, this shows 91 Port (San Benito County). Dark and hearty Boschendal 2016 Appellation Series Char- crisp green-apple and steel flavors, with subtle oak aromas of blackberry syrup, clove, allspice and 90 donnay (Elgin). This is quite bold, oaky tones. Elements of Meyer lemon and melon add prune show on the intense nose of this cigar-perfect­ and rich, with loads of buttery tones, caramel corn, context and complementary flavor to a lengthy, suc- Port. A black plum flavor grips the palate as espresso baked apple and creamed melon on the nose. The culent finish. —V.B. and raisin tones emerge, proving the overall package palate is similarly superrich and buttery, with abv: 14.2% Price: $65 sweet yet spicy. —M.K. ample toast and bright acidity to keep the weighty abv: 20% Price: $40/375 ml richness in check. It’s mouthfilling and plump in feel, but again, lifted by pleasant acidity and a lingering spiced-orange flavor on the close. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

WINEMAG.COM | 13

BUYINGGUIDE

Crū 2017 Wine Club Reserve­ Sarmento Vine- 90 yard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Hess Collection 2016 Estate Grown Chardon- Cranberry, Bing cherry and sagebrush aromas make 90 nay (Napa Valley). This is a floral, concen- for a delicate nose in this small-lot bottling. There trated . The entry of lush crème brûlée J Vineyards & Winery 2014 Blanc de Noirs is a compelling crispness to the palate, where pome- and fig flavors are met by persistent honeysuckle 90 (Russian River Valley). This mostly ­Pinot granate and rose petal flavors align. —M.K. and toasted oak tones. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. Noir-based sparkling wine contains 5% Pinot abv: 14.1% Price: $35 abv: 14.2% Price: $22 Meunier. It was given three years en tirage, resulting in a creamy mouthfeel and moderate acidity. It stays fresh and light in the glass, combining flavors of green apple, hazelnut and a squeeze of lemon. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $65

Domaine des Rosiers 2017 Moulin-à-Vent. Hess Collection 2016 Panthera Chardonnay 90 Partially aged in wood, this smoothly tex- 90 (Russian River Valley). This is a new offer- tured, dense wine is packed with black fruits, bright ing from the producer—a lush expression that offers acidity and spice. The fresh edge contrasts with the bold flavors and texture. With complementary oak, dry tannins that will soften as the wine develops. it offers rich layers of crème brûlée, caramel and Jax 2016 3 Barrels Cabernet Franc (Calis- Give this wine until 2020 before drinking. Quintes- apple, all dusted in nutmeg. —V.B. 90 toga). This wine offers notes of game, cur- sential Wines. —R.V. abv: 14.3% Price: $45 rant, dried cherry and clove. Intense in ripeness and abv: 13% Price: $27 high in acidity, it is a robust, full-bodied and rich red that is sure to be a crowd pleaser. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $60

J Vineyards & Winery 2016 Strata Estate Georges Duboeuf 2017 Flower Label (Julié- 90 Grown Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). 90 nas). Red cherry and red berry fruits are Caramelized apple and crème brûlée flavors make balanced by the ripe tannins in this structured for a heady richness in this wine. It finds its balance Jean-Ernest Descombes 2017 Côte du Py wine. It has good potential, with plenty of tight on the midpalate, where concentrated, silky waves 90 (Morgon). Parcels on the red-iron slopes acidity and spicy tones. Drink from 2020. Quintes- of flavor move to a settling mineral intensity on the of the dramatic 1,100-foot Côte du Py are the back- sential Wines. —R.V. finish. —V.B. bone of this rich and structured wine. Powerful abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 14.3% Price: $40 tannins give the wine density and aging potential. It has a way to go, with rich black fruits and acidity that still need to soften. Drink from 2020. Quintes- sential Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $28

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 King Estate 2015 Domaine Pinot Noir (Willa­ Landmark 2016 Damaris Reserve Chardon- Rancho Sisquoc 2016 Tre Vini Flood Fam- 90 mette Valley). Well structured, with brac- 90 nay (Sonoma Coast). Dark gold in color, 90 ily Vineyards -Syrah-Cabernet ingly tangy raspberry fruit, this was aged over a year this wine takes on a heady bouquet of honey, gra- ­Sauvignon (Santa Barbara­ County). Cherry, crushed in one-quarter new French oak. The flavors show a ham cracker, vanilla and crème brûlée. Hearty, full slate, wet soil, brick and dried leather make for a strong streak of chocolate before firm tannins kick bodied and fleshy, its fruit-forward character is compelling nose in this enjoyable blend of 56% in and set up a polished finish. The forward flavors defined by flavors of pineapple and mango. —V.B. Sangiovese, 26% Syrah and 18% Cabernet Sauvi- suggest consuming this by the early 2020s. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $35 gnon. There is a tang of red berry fruit on the palate abv: 13% Price: $70 as well as integrated sandalwood spice. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

MacPhail 2016 The Flyer Pinot Noir (Sonoma­ Kunde 2017 Magnolia Lane Estate Grown 90 Coast). A top-tier blend from several vine- 90 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma Valley). This is yards, this playful Pinot is full bodied and well built. Salentein 2013 Pr1mum Cabernet Sauvignon a grassy, herbal and refreshing white, from vines It’s robustly rich, ripe and firm in tannic structure. 90 (Uco Valley). A closed nose bubbles to life that date back decades in some cases. Lemongrass, The oak supports flavors of juicy wild strawberry with tones of coconut and ripe berries, while the lime and Meyer lemon flavors dominate the pal- and raspberry as well as a persistent earthy note, hefty palate is built by gripping tannins. Black-fruit ate, accentuating a tart, acid-driven proposition of while the finish offers lingering hints of vanilla and flavors reign, with notes of hoisin sauce and licorice ample texture. —V.B. cola. —V.B. on the side. Drink through 2022. Palm Bay Interna- abv: 13.8% Price: $17 abv: 14.5% Price: $50 tional. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

Kunde 2016 Estate Grown Chardonnay 90 (Sonoma Valley). Oaky and a touch reduced, San Simeon 2017 Stefano Vineyard Viognier this wine offers a grip of texture and rich, round con- Niner 2015 HH Reserve Estate Grown Cab- 90 (Paso Robles). From the Riboli family’s new centration. Baked apple and pear flavors are sea- 90 ernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Shy on the vineyard named after the patriarch, this bottling soned in tones of vanilla and butterscotch. —V.B. nose at first, this bottling, which is cofermented offers tuberose and tropical aromas of mango and abv: 13.8% Price: $18 with 10% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot, papaya cream on the nose, but with a chalky edge. shows dried dill and roasted fennel bulb on the The palate is clean and crisp in flavors of lemon nose, with a strawberry tone slowly emerging. Oreg- curd and apple mousse. —M.K. ano and black pepper meet with red fruit, star anise abv: 14.5% Price: $22 and cinnamon on the palate, which is still young and needs more time to come into its own. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

WINEMAG.COM | 15

BUYINGGUIDE

The Calling 2016 Pinot Noir (Russian River Charles & Charles 2017 Art Den Hoed Ries- A to Z NV Bubbles Rosé Wine (Oregon). 90 Valley). This is an intensely minty, earthy 89 ling (Yakima Valley). Aromas of freshly 88 Closed with a crown cap, this party-ready, and clove-spiced wine, soft and velvety in texture. squeezed lime and white peach lead to tart, mouth- cherry-candy bubbly is fresh, lively and just plain It shows a rounded body that feels ripe and rich, watering, just a hair off-dry fruit flavors. The sense fun. Pinkish-gold in color, with big bubbles and a making this a real crowd-pleaser of a pour. —V.B. of acidity and balance is lovely. —S.S. burst of fruit flavor, it’s fine with salmon, poultry or abv: 14.1% Price: $37 abv: 12% Price: $15 all by itself. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

Willamette Valley Vineyards 2016 Bernau Bieler Père et Fils 2016 La Jassine (Côtes du 90 Block Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Self-­ Earth Song 2016 Pinot Noir (Southern 88 Rhône Villages). A blend of 60% Grenache rooted vines planted in 1983 are the foundation of 89 Oregon).­ Already showing a trace of and 40% Syrah, this intensely primary, fruity wine this wine, yielding an aromatic note of orange zest bricking around the rim, this seems to have been bursts with a ripe black-cherry flavor. Not deeply around core tones of brambly berries and Bing cher- smoothed out during its 22 months in barrel. The concentrated, it’s a juicy, lavish wine that’s shaded ries. Barrel aging adds a touch of chocolate, and the core flavors of plum and cherry are accented by bak- by tones of licorice and sweet vanilla. Fresh acidic tannins have tea-like astringency. —P.G. ing spices. The wine finishes with a bit of sharpness. balance and soft, easy tannins cushion the finish. abv: 14.1% Price: $65 Enjoy through 2020. —P.G. Trinchero Family Estates. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $28 abv: 14.5% Price: $16

BEST BUYS

Yealands 2018 Estate Single Vineyard Sau- 90 vignon Blanc (Awatere Valley). This single- Ferraton Père et Fils 2017 Samorëns (Côtes vineyard wine shows all of the cool climate, mari- 89 du Rhône). A delicate layer of honeycomb Robertson Winery 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon time influence of the Awatere Valley, a subregion of lends waxiness to bright tones of tangerine and yel- 91 (Robertson). Brambly berry, black plum and Marlborough. It’s an aromatic and balanced mix of low apple in this full-bodied but crisply balanced cherry abound on the nose of this attractive wine. green bell pepper, tomato leaf, grapefruit and lemon wine. Broad and richly textured, it’s edged by min- Touches of cinnamon stick, violet and milk choco- zest. The whole package is backed by crisp, crunchy eral tones. The finish is slightly warming. Enjoy late add interest. The medium-weight palate is fresh acidity, a slippery texture and a long, lemony finish. now–2020. Sera Wine Imports. —A.I. and vibrant in ripe fruit tones, with velvety tannins Palm Bay International. —C.P. abv: 14% Price: $16 and ample acidity. It’s well balanced and harmoni- abv: 13% Price: $25 ous, while the lasting finish evolves from fruit flesh to soil then tree bark and finally soft sweet spice. Indigo Wine Group. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Three Thieves 2017 Pinot Noir (California). Robertson Winery 2017 Pinotage (Robert- 91 Baking spice aromas and ripe, juicy fruit fla- 89 son). There are lovely top notes of sweet vors make this full-bodied wine easy to appreciate. smoke, hickory-cured bacon and sweet cedar Dark Horse 2016 Pinot Noir (California). This It follows on the palate with toasty oak nuances and grounded by rich, ripe red cherry, raspberry and 87 is a good, well-balanced and modestly fruity satisfying notes of red and black cherries. A good mulberry throughout this wine. It’s smooth and wine that shows low-key blackberry and cherry fla- structure of fruit, acidity and moderate tannins slightly creamy in feel, with plush red-berry fla- vors, medium body and a light, dry mouthfeel. It’s a keeps it well balanced. Best Buy. —J.G. vors, fine yet structuring tannins and ample acidity good standard pour at a great price. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 to lift the inherent sweetness. The finish offers an abv: 13.5% Price: $8 exhale of more sweet cured meat and smoke tones, with some brambly berry on the back. Indigo Wine Group. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $10

Excelsior 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rob- 90 ertson). This shows moderate scents of Gen5 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). Well ripe black plum, blueberry and raspberry that ride 87 structured and filled with straightforward over subtle hints of blackcurrant leaf, bramble and fruit flavors, this full-bodied wine is nicely dry, pressed purple flowers. Medium weight and smooth Tortoise Creek 2015 Le Charmel Syrah- concentrated and appealing without overt oak on the palate, it boasts crushed-velvet tannins. The 88 Grenache (Costières de Nîmes). Made from influence. Ripe cherry and blackberry notes fill medium-length finish offers a solid fruit presence 70% Syrah and 30% Grenache, this rich, meaty the aroma while equally vivid fruit flavors coat the that veers toward berry compote and crumble, with wine juxtaposes rich black-cherry and plum fla- ­palate. Best Buy. —J.G. lingering sweet spice. Cape Classics. Best Buy. —L.B. vors against layers of charcuterie, coffee grinds and abv: 13.9% Price: $11 abv: 14% Price: $10 bramble. It’s plump and mouthcoating, enveloped in fine, easy tannins offset by welcome briskness on the finish. Enjoy now–2021. Winesellers, Ltd.Best SPIRITS Buy. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $12

Matchbook 2017 Estate Bottled Old Head 90 Chardonnay (Dunnigan Hills). This medium- Glendalough Double Barrel Irish Whiskey bodied wine is subtle on the nose, but opens up on Waxing Moon 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- 95 (Ireland; Mark Anthony Crafted Spirits, Chi- the palate to rich fruit and spice flavors that coat 88 borough). Peach, pineapple, guava, tomato cago, IL). This honey-hued whiskey is aged in Bour- the tongue. It is balanced toward the soft side, but leaf and dried herb aromas lead the way for a crisp, bon barrels, then finished in oloroso casks. with underling acidity to balance the richness. Best zesty palate that shows a little fruit weight and a The overall effect is bold and mouthwatering, and Buy. —J.G. juicy, citrusy finish. It’s not overly complicated, yields flavors of almond, vanilla and pecan accented abv: 13.9% Price: $15 but a balanced example of this style. DC Flynt MW by clove and black pepper. Best Buy. Selections. Best Buy. —C.P. abv: 42% Price: $33 abv: 12.5% Price: $13

WINEMAG.COM | 17

BUYINGGUIDE ers of crushed stone and earth. It’s pristine in fruit Brunel Père et Fils 2016 Château de la Gar- now it should improve through 2026. Serge Doré yet lingers with mineral intensity and fine, slightly 92 dine (Rasteau). Zesty notes of crushed min- Selections. —A.I. sandpapered tannins. Monsieur Touton Selection erals lend freshness from nose to finish in this crisp abv: 15.5% Price: $92 Ltd. —A.I. but gorgeously finessed blend of 75% Grenache and abv: 13% Price: $18 25% Syrah. Black-plum and currant flavors are Domaine la Soumade 2016 Cuvée Fleur de concentrated yet pure. The finish lingers on fine, 92 Confiance (Rasteau). Made entirely from Marlène & Nicolas Chevalier 2015 Les Vol- firm tannins. Enjoyable now–2026. Lemma Wine Grenache, the Fleur de Confiance offers luscious 90 eyeses (Crozes-Hermitage). Whiffs of Co Inc. —A.I. mulberry and black-currant flavors muted by notes blackberry preserve and licorice contrast with abv: 14% Price: $NA of crushed stone and dried herb. It’s bold and silky a rather restrained palate full of crisp plum and yet held upright by ripe, persistent tannins. This cherry flavors. It’s an elegant wine muted by shades Domaine Beau Mistral 2016 La Bastide St. decadent yet freshly composed wine should improve of bramble and autumn leaves. Brisk acidity and 92 Martin (Rasteau). Quite ripe but crunchy through 2026. Serge Doré Selections. —A.I. fine, velvety tannins linger on the finish. Enjoy black-cherry and blackberry flavors gain a floral abv: 14.8% Price: $95 now–2025. Michael Corso Selections. —A.I. lift in this supple blend of 50% Grenache, 45% abv: 12.5% Price: $23 Syrah and 5% Mourvèdre. It’s richly concentrated Domaine la Soumade 2016 Cuvée Prestige but firmly balanced by a fresh mineral midpalate 92 (Rasteau). This Prestige is deeper in con- Michel Picard 2015 Rémy Ferbras (Crozes- and fine-grained, drying tannins. It’s ready to drink centration and more firmly composed than the 90 Hermitage). Plump blackberry and bramble now–2026. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.I. producer’s basic Rasteau bottling. Black-cherry and on the nose introduce a pristine black-fruited pal- abv: 14% Price: $NA plum flavors are ripe and penetrating but pristine, ate in this medium-bodied Syrah. It’s an elegant almost crunchy. The tannins are firm and quite stal- but easy-drinking example of Crozes-Hermitage at Domaine Combe Juliere 2016 Tradition (Ras- wart on the finish. This elegantly composed wine a very reasonable price. Enjoy now–2025. Prestige 92 teau). Streaks of wild mint and thyme lend drinks well now but should improve through 2028. Beverage Group. —A.I. elegance to crisp blackberry and plum flavors in this Serge Doré Selections. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $20 freshly composed, gripping wine. It’s intently min- abv: 14.4% Price: $62 eral on the midpalate, with persistent, fine-grained tannins. Ready now it should improve through 2026 Domaine Mikael Boutin 2016 M.B. (Rasteau). RASTEAU and hold further. Grape Expectations (CA). —A.I. 92 Gorgeously ripe, black-plum and cherry fla- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA vors are juxtaposed by muddy earth tones, leather Château du Trignon 2013 Rasteau. Five years and balsamic in this wine. The Grenache-domi- 93 after bottling, this wine still offers loads of Domaine de Beaurenard 2016 Rasteau. nant blend is accented by darker, bramblier tones fresh, punchy blackberry and plum flavors. It’s a 92 Fresh, vibrant black-cherry and plum fla- of , Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Rich bold, penetrating wine nuanced by hints of gran- vors are edged by streaks of earth and mineral in yet freshly composed, it’s framed by fine-grained, ite and wet earth. The fresh finish lingers on fine, this brisk, concentrated wine. The Grenache-dom- persistent tannins. A bold wine, it should improve integrated tannins. Lovely now it should improve inant blend is augmented by darker tones of Syrah through 2026. Rosenthal Wine Merchant. —A.I. further through 2022 and hold a few years longer. and Mourvèdre. Bold in black-fruit flavor, it’s also abv: 14.5% Price: $NA David Milligan Selections. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. nuanced. Firm, finely edged tannins linger on the abv: 14.5% Price: $22 finish. Enjoy now–2026. —A.I. Grand Nicolet 2015 Les Esqueyrons (Ras- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 92 teau). Made from equal parts Grenache and Domaine Pique Basse 2015 Rasteau. Forest Syrah, this fleshy, full-bodied wine offers dense 93 floor, licorice and black pepper notes accent Domaine de Verquiere 2015 Cuvée 1928 concentrations of black-cherry-preserve flavor this blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre. 92 (Rasteau). Plump blackberry and cherry nuanced by earth, forest floor and spice. Vibrant Supple and richly concentrated it’s freshened by flavors are tinged with dried lavender and thyme in on the midpalate, it finishes firmly with bold but a crisp granitic edge. A finessed wine with chalky, this rich, intensely fruity Grenache-Syrah blend. A finely edged tannins. Enjoy now–2024. Weygandt- integrated tannins, it should improve through 2026 whisper of sweet spice lends opulence to the pal- Metzler. —A.I. and hold further. Bradley Alan Imports LLC. —A.I. ate but fresh acidity and ripe, gripping tannins abv: 15% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $NA anchor the finish. It’s ready now but should improve through 2025. T. Elenteny Imports. —A.I. Cave de 2016 La Reserve (Rasteau). Notre Dame des Pallieres 2016 Les Ribes abv: 14% Price: $40 91 This Grenache-Syrah blend offers plump, 93 (Rasteau). Violet, lavender and black olive plummy black-fruit character elegantly muted by perfume this plump, full-bodied blend of Grenache, Domaine des Coteaux des Travers 2016 Mon- notes of crushed earth and violet candy. Moderately Mouvèdre and Cinsault. On the palate, black-plum 92 dona (Rasteau). Pretty violet and pristine full in body, it’s concentrated and ripe but deftly and cherry flavors are richly concentrated yet firmly blackberry aromas are touched by crushed earth in structured with firm, velvety tannins. Approach- structured with tight, fine-tipped tannins. This this plush, fruit-forward blend of Grenache, Syrah able now, it should hold well through 2028. G&B bold yet elegant wine should improve through 2026 and Carignan. It’s primary and pure in fruit charac- Importers. —A.I. and hold further. Grape Expectations (CA). Editors’ ter but deeply concentrated. Fresh acidity and ripe, abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Choice. —A.I. chalky tannins mark the finish. Enjoy now–2024. abv: 15% Price: $35 Charles Neal Selections. —A.I. Domaine Beau Mistral 2016 Florianaëlle abv: 15% Price: $22 91 (Rasteau). Slightly muted black-cherry and Tardieu-Laurent 2016 Vieilles Vignes (Ras- blackberry on the nose gain vibrance and angularity 93 teau). This bold, aromatic wine bursts with Domaine Fond Croze 2016 Vieilles Vignes on the palate of this Grenache-dominant blend. It’s ripe black-cherry and berry flavors. Plush and opu- 92 (Rasteau). Intensely ripe, forward black- a full-bodied but crisply composed wine with fine lent, it offers layers of vanilla, toast and spice, bal- plum and mulberry flavors maintain a pristine, but gripping tannins. Enjoy this elegant yet satisfy- anced elegantly by earth tones and a crushed min- invigorating demeanor in this luscious Grenache- ing wine through 2028. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.I. eral freshness. Tannins are upright but tipped with dominant blend. Freshly composed on the midpal- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA chalk. Ready now it should improve through 2026. ate it lingers on firm but integrated tannins. Ready Wilson Daniels Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. Domaine Beau Mistral 2016 Selection Vie- abv: NA Price: $NA 91 illes Vignes (Rasteau). Alluring complexities

18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 of dried herb and earth lend depth to crisp black Domaine du Trapadis 2016 Les Cras (Rasteau). thyme in this rich, rounded wine. A Grenache-dom- plum in this fresh, briskly concentrated red. Made 91 While ripe and concentrated, this full-bodied inant blend, it’s approachably plump but freshly predominantly from Grenache and Mourvèdre with Grenache-dominant blend offers welcome restraint balanced and framed by fine, firm tannins. It’s a sat- a smaller dose of Syrah, it offers a savory counter- and freshness. Black-cherry and blackberry flavors isfying, succulent wine to enjoy now through 2023. point to plusher black-fruit flavors. It drinks well are zesty and slightly puckering, softened by hints Weygandt-Metzler. —A.I. now but should improve through 2026 and is likely of anise and violet. Framed by fine, firm tannins, the abv: 15% Price: $NA hold further. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.I. wine should drink well from 2019–2026. European abv: 14% Price: $NA Wine Group. —A.I. Grandes Serres 2016 La Chevalière (Rasteau). abv: 14% Price: $23 91 Crisp black plums and blackberries are Domaine Chamfort 2016 Rasteau. Zesty tinged with smoky whiffs of crushed mineral on the 91 mineral cuts through ripe black-cherry and Domaine Fond Croze 2016 Le Haut Plateau nose of this wine. It’s a pert, upright wine but full blackberry flavors in this Grenache-Syrah blend. 91 (Rasteau). Ripe black-cherry and plum notes bodied and deeply concentrated too. Bold tannins It’s fleshy and full in body but briskly concentrated. are shaded by licorice and cacao in this lavishly and rich black-fruit flavors will reward aging. Drink Fine, chalky tannins are persistent on the finish. styled Grenache. It’s a forward, richly concentrated 2019–2030. Cellar Selection. —A.I. It should drink well through 2026. Michael Corso wine with bold tones of vanilla and anise. Robust abv: NA Price: $NA Selections. —A.I. and mouthfilling, it offers a chalky but densely grip- abv: 15% Price: $NA ping finish. Serge Doré Selections. —A.I. Lavau 2016 Rasteau. Whiffs of dried plum abv: 15.5% Price: $40 91 and violet perfume this fragrant blend of Domaine de Galuval 2015 Inspiration (Ras- Grenache and Syrah. Succulent black-cherry and 91 teau). Hints of char, smoke and spice lend Domaine la Soumade 2016 Cuvée Confiance plum flavors are plush and forward but the midpal- depth to pristine black-currant and plum in this 91 (Rasteau). This is a softer, more rounded ate offers freshness and tension, too. The wine is bold, full-bodied red. It’s a brisk, nervy wine with wine than the producer’s other Rasteau bottlings approachable already but should improve through crisply concentrated black-fruit flavors and fine, this vintage. Black-plum and cherry flavors are 2028. Kinson The Future of Wine. —A.I. firm tannins. Enjoy now–2025. J. Strecker Selec- fleshy and ripe, muted by subtle earth tones and abv: 14% Price: $25 tions. —A.I. ripe, yielding tannins. Enjoy this approachable wine abv: 15% Price: $NA now–2026. Serge Doré Selections. —A.I. NewRhône Millesimes 2016 Romain Duvernay abv: 14.4% Price: $75 91 (Rasteau). Finesse and delicacy prevail over Domaine de la Combe Dieu 2016 Rasteau. power in this ripe yet freshly balanced wine. It’s 91 Crisp blackberry and plum flavors are bol- Domaine les Grands Bois 2016 Marc (Ras- plummy and silken, with a lavishly floral flair, and stered by tones of crushed mineral and dried herbs 91 teau). This powerful, intensely ripe wine framed by fine, firm tannins that linger on the fin- in this elegant, firmly structured wine. It’s full bod- bursts with succulent black-plum, olive and bal- ish. Approachable now it should hold well through ied and framed by fine, firm tannins. Ready to drink samic flavors. Edged by burnt and fine, firm 2028. Grape Expectations (CA). —A.I. now it’s concentrated enough to improve through tannins, it’s a penetrating wine that should drink abv: 14% Price: $22 2026 and hold further. —A.I. well through 2026. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Ogier 2016 Hélianthe (Rasteau). While the 91 nose of this full-bodied blend of Grenache, Domaine de la Gayere 2016 Le Clos d Anais et Domaine Wilfried 2016 Rasteau. Layers of Mourvèdre, Syrah and Carignan is plush and 91 Adrien (Rasteau). Crisp blackberry and black 91 crushed stone augment crisp, cutting black plummy, the palate conveys surprising tension cherry flavors are accented with sweet spice and plum and cherry in this blend of Grenache, Syrah and verve. It’s intensely ripe and concentrated but dried orange peel in this blend of 50% Grenache and Carignan. It’s ripe and concentrated, with firm simultaneously crisp and finessed, boasting a bold and 50% Mourvèdre. It’s a briskly textured, vibrant but chalky, mouthfilling tannins. It drinks well mineral backbone. Tannins are fine yet persistent. wine with bold fruit concentration. Tannins are already but should improve through 2028. Cascadia Taub Family Selections. —A.I. firm and persistent on the finish. Ready to drink Wine Imports. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $28 now it should hold well through 2026. Exclusive abv: 15% Price: $28 Wine Imports. —A.I. Vignobles Alain Jaume & Fils 2016 Les Valats abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Domaine Wilfried 2016 La Terre des Promesses 91 (Rasteau). Notes of wet sandstone, crushed 91 (Rasteau). While the nose of this Grenache- earth and olive lend elegant restraint to crisp black Domaine des Escaravailles 2016 La Ponce Syrah blend is more mineral than fruity, bright cherry and blackberry here. A blend of 90% Gre- 91 (Rasteau). Savory notes of dried thyme and black-cherry and plum flavors are crisp on the pal- nache and 10% Syrah, this concentrated wine is sage accent crisp blackberry in this elegant Gre- ate. It’s a full-bodied, supple wine framed by bold marked by savory tones of dried mint and sage. Fine nache-Syrah blend. It’s freshly composed on the but chalky tannins. Ready now, it should improve but firm tannins and a mineral freshness accent the mid palate with very firm but chalky, grippy tan- through 2028. Cascadia Wine Imports. —A.I. finish. It’s ready now but should improve through nins on the finish. It should improve through 2026. abv: 14.4% Price: $25 2030. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. European Wine Group. —A.I. abv: NA Price: $27 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Grand Nicolet 2015 Terre des Bertrand (Ras- 91 teau). Whiffs of violet and dried herb lend Cave de Rasteau 2017 La Domeliere (Ras- Domaine du Trapadis 2016 Les Adrès (Ras- elegance to pristine blackberry and cherry in this 90 teau). In this wine, juicy blackberry and 91 teau). Pristine, slightly puckering blackberry silky, mouthfilling wine. A dominant proportion black-cherry notes are delicately muted by hints of and raspberry flavors are accented with balsamic of Grenache lends plumminess but Carignan and forest floor and earth. It’s full bodied and concen- vinegar and anise in this full-bodied but briskly Syrah convey darker earth and bramble tones that trated yet maintains a briskness on the palate. It’s composed wine. It’s primary in black-fruit flavors, linger on the finish. Enjoy this juicy but stately wine fresh and fruity yet earthy, complex and elegant too. with a mineral freshness on the midpalate. This ele- now through 2025. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.I. Drink now–2023. —A.I. gant wine should improve through 2028 European abv: 14.5% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Wine Group. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Grand Nicolet 2015 Vieilles Vignes (Rasteau). Domaine de l’Espigouette 2015 Pas du 91 Ripe, slightly ruddy tones of preserved plum 90 Meunier (Rasteau). Although this wine is and blackberry jam are accented by balsamic and initially smoky and earthen, aeration opens layers

WINEMAG.COM | 19

BUYINGGUIDE of ripe black plum, anise and pepper. It’s a fleshy, finish in this plump blend of Grenache and Syrah. centrated wine that’s a bit overwhelmed by stalwart supple wine that’s seductive in texture. Soft, ripe An easy-drinking wine, it offers soft, supple tan- tannins. Drink now–2023. MS Walker. —A.I. tannins cushion the finish. Ready now it should nins and is a hedonistic sip to enjoy from its youth abv: 14% Price: $NA hold through 2023. Serge Doré Selections. —A.I. through 2021. Terlato Wines International. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Domaine de Verquiere 2016 Rasteau. For- 89 ward, fruity black-cherry and mulberry Domaine Fond Croze 2015 Rasteau. A bal- Ogier 2016 Héritages (Rasteau). Restrained flavors are softly bundled in this comforting blend 90 samic lift and hint of dried plum suggest 90 but ripe black-cherry and mulberry flavors of Grenache and Syrah. It’s a plush, moderately con- some maturity in this otherwise ripe, fruit-forward have an intensely mineral, elegantly earthen qual- centrated wine with fine, firm tannins. The open- wine. A Grenache-dominant blend augmented by ity in this full-bodied red. A blend of Grenache, knit style is approachable now but should hold well Syrah and Mourvèdre, its black-cherry and berry Mourvèdre, Syrah and Carignan, it’s ripe and con- through 2023. T. Elenteny Imports. —A.I. flavors are full bodied and juicy on the palate. The centrated but not at all jammy. The midpalate is abv: 14% Price: $20 finish is marked by bold, mouth-dampening tan- plump but briskly balanced and framed by firm, nins. It’s ready now but should hold through 2022. fine-grained tannins. Enjoy now–2023. Taub Fam- Domaine des Coteaux des Travers 2016 Les Serge Doré Selections. —A.I. ily Selections. —A.I. 89 Travès (Rasteau). Sunny raspberry and abv: 15% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $17 preserved strawberry are juicy and a touch candied in this blend of equal parts Grenache and Syrah. Domaine la Soumade 2016 Rasteau. Whiffs Olivier Ravoire 2016 Rasteau. Pristinely Full bodied in style, it’s a bright, primary wine bal- 90 of dried Mediterranean herbs and crushed 90 ripe blackberry and plum flavors are plump anced by fresh acidity and ripe, finely edged tan- earth lend nuance to this freshly concentrated Gre- and juicy in this full-bodied Grenache blend. It’s a nins. Approachable now it should hold well through nache-dominant blend. Its plum and black currant forward, easy-drinking wine but has a fresh min- 2023. Charles Neal Selections. —A.I. flavors are crisp and angular on the palate, edged eral edge on the midpalate. Fine-grained but bold, abv: 14.7% Price: $18 by fine-grained but gripping tannins. Enjoy now– mouth-dampening tannins mark the finish. Enjoy 2024. Serge Doré Selections. —A.I. now–2025. Serendipity Wine Imports. —A.I. Domaine Martin 2016 Rasteau. This rich, abv: 14.5% Price: $55 abv: NA Price: $NA 89 rounded wine offers opulent blackberry flavor. Made from 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and Domaine Martin 2017 Rasteau. Bursts of Bonpas 2017 Grand Orateur (Rasteau). Per- 10% Mourvèdre, it’s a soft, welcoming red marked 90 blueberry and black plum are accented by 89 fumed and primary, this fruit-forward wine by hints of vanilla and licorice. Tannins are ripe and subtle notes of wild mint and crushed earth in this offers loads of succulent pomegranate and blueberry chalky on the finish. The wine is ready to drink. Ber- rich, brawny red. It’s a juicy, intensely primary wine notes. It’s rounded and supple, with soft acidity and trand’s Wines. —A.I. packed with loads of black-fruit flavor, but an edge ripe, yielding tannins. Enjoy this uncomplicated abv: 15.1% Price: $NA of earthiness lends subtlety too. Very ripe, finely yet tasty sip now through 2021. Boisset Collection. edged tannins linger on the finish. Enjoy now–2022. —A.I. Bertrand’s Wines. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA CAIRANNE abv: 15.1% Price: $NA Cave de Rasteau 2017 Les Peyrieres (Ras- Brunel Père et Fils 2016 Brunel de la Gardine Domaine Rabasse Charavin 2015 Rasteau. 89 teau). Fresh, juicy blueberry and black- 92 (Cairanne). Smoky dried herbs and anise 90 Fresh and pretty, this Grenache-dominant cherry notes are accented by hints of smoke, earth notes spice this full-bodied yet crisply composed blend offers plump, primary raspberry and straw- and nut in this bold, fruity red. It’s full bodied and blend of Grenache and Syrah. Black-plum and mul- berry flavors. It’s a juicy, unctuous wine, but bal- plump but maintains freshness on the midpalate. berry flavors are ripe but pristine, framed by fine, anced freshly. Easy drinking and approachable, it’s Tannins are fine grained and well integrated. Enjoy integrated tannins. This briskly textured yet pow- a hedonistic sip framed by ripe, integrated tannins. now–2022. —A.I. erfully concentrated wine should improve through Enjoy now–2023. Estelle Imports. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 2026. Lemma Wine Co Inc. —A.I. abv: 15% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Cave de Rasteau 2017 Ortas Tradition (Ras- Domaine Wilfried 2016 Septentrion (Ras- 89 teau). Forward, fresh black-cherry and Domaine Berthet-Rayne 2016 Vieilles Vignes 90 teau). Crisp black cherries are accented by blueberry flavors abound in this plump, easy-drink- 92 (Cairanne). There’s aromatic richness to anise and balsamic notes in this full-bodied blend ing blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Full this Grenache-dominant blend, suggesting notes of 90% Grenache and 10% Carignan. The black- bodied and fleshy, it’s an unabashedly ripe wine but of smoked nut, earth and violet alongside intensely fruit flavors are ripe but restrained, maintaining maintains a touch of mineral restraint. Enjoy now– ripe black fruit. Black-plum and cherry flavors are freshness on the midpalate. The finish is dampened 2021. Saranty Imports. —A.I. silky yet fresh, framed by finely textured but persis- by bold, dense tannins. It’s ready now but should abv: 14.5% Price: $17 tent tannins. It’s lovely already but should improve improve through 2026. Cascadia Wine Imports. through 2026. Elite Wine Imports. —A.I. —A.I. Cave de Rasteau 2016 Ortas Tradition (Ras- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $35 89 teau). Intensely ripe, fleshy black-plum and black-cherry flavors burst from this heaving, full- Domaine Brusset 2016 Les Chabriles Vieilles Lavau 2016 Domaine les Evigneaux (Ras- bodied red. Unabashedly fruit forward, it’s a rich, 92 Vignes (Cairanne). This powerful yet elegant 90 teau). Ripe blackberry and black-cherry densely concentrated wine with soft acidity and wine is founded on 80-year-old Grenache and Syrah flavors are peppered with sweet spice, licorice and ripe, welcoming tannins. Enjoy this bold, big red vines. Rich, silken black-plum and cherry flavors cacao in this wine. Rounded and voluminous, it’s now through 2021. Saranty Imports. —A.I. are offset by pungent hits of dried thyme and earth. lavished with prominent oak tones and soft, silky abv: 17% Price: $17 It’s plush and mouthfilling yet crisply balanced. tannins. Enjoy this approachable wine now through This nuanced wine should improve through 2026 2024. Kinson The Future of Wine. —A.I. Domaine Brusset 2016 La Bastide (Rasteau). and likely hold further. MS Walker. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 89 Juicy, plump blackberry and cherry flavors abv: NA Price: $NA are accented by anise and crushed-mineral tones in M. Chapoutier 2017 Rasteau. Bold blueberry this Grenache-Mourvèdre blend. It’s a crisply con- La Bastide Saint Dominique 2016 Les 2 90 and black-cherry notes extend from nose to 92 Arbres (Cairanne). Made from equal propor-

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 tions of Grenache, Carignan, Syrah and Mourvèdre, blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan. 2026 and hold further. Charles Neal Selections. this is a satisfyingly juicy yet nuanced wine. Black- It’s full bodied and thirst-quenchingly juicy, main- —A.I. berry and cassis flavors are shaded by hints of forest taining pert acidity on the midpalate. The finish lin- abv: 15.5% Price: $20 floor, crushed earth, rosemary and thyme. It’s a rich, gers on soft, yielding tannins. Approachable now it deeply integrated wine balanced by a fresh min- should hold through 2024. Monsieur Touton Selec- Domaine du Trapadis 2016 Les Garrigues eral crush and firm, persistent tannins. It’s ready tion Ltd. —A.I. 90 (Cairanne). Intensely ripe plum and black- to enjoy now but should improve through 2026. abv: 14.5% Price: $17 berry flavors are offset by savory tones of dried Simon N Cellars. —A.I. thyme, wild mint and juniper in this elegant, pen- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Cave de Cairanne 2016 La Reserve (Cai- etrating wine. While tannins are soft and ripe, the 90 ranne). Roasted plum and preserved black- angularity on the midpalate that could use a year or Xavier Vignon 2016 Esprit Français (Cai- berries are peppered by anise and toast in this two to meld out. It’s likely to improve through 2026. 92 ranne). Whiffs of violet and rose petal voluptuous Grenache-dominant blend. Crisp black- European Wine Group. —A.I. perfume pristine blackberry and cherry in this cassis acidity lends freshness to the midpalate. The abv: 14.5% Price: $NA lusciously fruity, floral red. A Grenache-dominant finish is framed by ripe, feathery tannins. Enjoy this blend of five traditional Rhône grapes, it’s opulent approachable wine now through 2023. G&B Import- Domaine les Grands Bois 2016 Eloïse (Cai- and warming on the midpalate, finishing with fine ers. —A.I. 90 ranne). This opulent, richly textured wine but gripping tannins. —A.I. abv: NA Price: $NA is chock full of luscious black-cherry and mulberry abv: NA Price: $NA flavors. Savory notes of forest floor and black pep- Domaine Alary 2016 L’Estevenas (Cairanne). per lend nuance while sunny acidity and chalky Cave de Cairanne 2016 L’Elegante (Cairanne). 90 Rounder and softer than this producer’s tannins accentuate its plush yet elegant style. Enjoy 91 Delicate crushed-stone minerality extends other 2016 bottlings, L’Estevenas is a full-bodied, now–2024. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.I. from nose to finish in this crisp blackberry-accented fleshy blend of 50% Grenache and 50% Syrah. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA red. It’s silky and full in body but impeccably bal- Black-cherry and plum flavors are ripe and ruddy, anced with integrated alcohol and a luscious, mouth accented by hints of black olive and garrigue. It’s a Domaine les Grands Bois 2016 Maximil- clinging finish. Chalky, penetrating tannins lend supple, thickly concentrated wine framed by firm, 90 ien (Cairanne). Smoky mineral tones and structure. Enjoy now–2025. G&B Importers. —A.I. gripping tannins. Ready now, but it should drink whiffs of moss lend complexity to luscious black abv: NA Price: $NA well through 2024. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.I. cherry in this easy-drinking yet nuanced red. Silky abv: 14% Price: $NA and soft on the palate with gentle acidity, it finishes Domaine Alary 2016 La Jean de Verde (Cai- on firm, persistent tannins. Enjoy this approachable 91 ranne). The 95% Grenache in the blend Domaine Boisson 2016 Exigence (Cairanne). but structured wine now through 2024. Weygandt- delivers fleshy, concentrated black plum and cassis 90 Fragrant tones of earth and olive offset Metzler. —A.I. flavors. Meanwhile, the 5% Carignan lends a puck- ripe, pristine cassis and blackberry in this wine. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA ering edge along with savory tones of dried thyme It’s richly concentrated but boasts a bite of fresh- and juniper. Full bodied and flush, it’s also crisply ness on the midpalate. The finish is marked by pep- Domaine Saint Andéol 2016 Excellence (Cai- balanced. Firm, upright tannins frame the finish. pery spice and fine-grained but gripping tannins. It 90 ranne). Whiffs of mint and crushed miner- Enjoy now–2026. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.I. drinks well now but should improve through 2024, als lend freshness to this juicy, fresh-fruited wine. abv: 15% Price: $NA hold further. Alain Junguenet Selection. —A.I. Ripe black-cherry and blackberry flavors have a abv: 14.5% Price: $NA cutting sweet-tart balance anchored by fine, firmly Domaine Brusset 2016 Les Travers (Cairanne). gripping tannins. Ready now it should drink well 91 An elegant earthen streak in this Grenache- Domaine Constant-Duquesnoy 2016 Terra through 2024. MROI LLC. —A.I. dominant blend offsets soft, fleshy black-plum and 90 Rhona (Cairanne). A blend of 55% Syrah, abv: 14.5% Price: $NA cherry flavors. It’s a full-bodied, concentrated wine 40% Grenache and 5% Viognier, this nuanced red with fine-grained tannins and lingering notes of offers densely packed blackberry and cherry flavors Domaine Saint Andéol 2016 Prestige (Cai- spice and crushed mineral. Enjoy now–2024. MS balanced by acidity. Moderately full in body, it’s a 90 ranne). Hints of earth and crushed mineral Walker. —A.I. brisk wine with a brambly, earthen minerality that’s lend depth to ripe, primary blackberry and cassis abv: NA Price: $NA inviting. Enjoy now–2026. Selections. —A.I. in this Grenache-dominant blend, with proportions abv: NA Price: $21 of Syrah and Carignan. It’s juicy but quite piercing, Domaine des Amadieu 2016 Cuvée Vieilles with firm, grippy tannins on the finish. Enjoy now– 91 Vignes (Cairanne). Intense aromas of ripe Domaine des Amadieu 2016 Garrigues (Cai- 2024. MROI LLC. —A.I. black plum, thyme and juniper introduce this bold, 90 ranne). Soft and silky, this Grenache-domi- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA full-bodied red made from biodynamically farmed nant blend offers ripe, fleshy black-plum and cherry vines averaging more than 50 years of age. It’s flavors offset by dusty dried herb and forest-floor Domaine Wilfried 2016 Cairanne. This shows plump, juicy, deeply concentrated and firmly framed notes. It’s plush and easy drinking yet nuanced. The 90 elegant rusticity, with whiffs of leather, wet with tannins. Enjoy now–2026. Francki Wine. —A.I. finish is marked by fine-grained but persistent tan- earth and smoke accenting intensely primary black- abv: 14% Price: $NA nins. Enjoy now–2024. Francki Wine. —A.I. berry and plum flavors. A richly composed wine abv: 14% Price: $NA with a kick of angularity on the midpalate, it has Brotte 2016 Création Grosset (Cairanne). fine-grained but grippy tannins marking the finish. 90 This well-priced Grenache-blend is buoy- Domaine des Coteaux des Travers 2016 Enjoy now–2026. Cascadia Wine Imports. —A.I. antly perfumed, offering loads of ripe black-cherry 90 Terra Rosea (Cairanne). Ripe but pristine abv: 14.5% Price: $25 and blackberry notes shaded with thyme, wild mint black-cherry aromas are lifted by whiffs of rose and juniper. It’s a rich and spicy sip with a long, petal, crushed stone and licorice in this forward but Roche 2016 La Bousquette (Cairanne). juicy finish. Enjoy now–2024. Monsieur Touton nuanced red. Bold proportions of Mourvèdre lend 90 Whiffs of wild mint, thyme and pepper lend Selection Ltd. Best Buy. —A.I. an elegant herbal edge to Grenache’s plummy char- an earthen grip to supple blackberry and cherry fla- abv: 14% Price: $15 acter. The long finish is edged by lingering, grippy vors in this wine. Richly concentrated, it also has tannins. Lovely now, it should improve through rounded edges and yielding acidity. Silken texture Brotte 2016 Domaine Grosset (Cairanne). 90 Anise and pepper spice this unctuous, silky

WINEMAG.COM | 21

BUYINGGUIDE and fine, firm tannins accentuate the gentle, rolling finish. Drink now–2022. Vignobles & Compagnie. Halos de Jupiter 2016 Gigondas. Intense aro- style. Enjoy now–2023. —A.I. —A.I. 91 mas of black-cherry candy and preserved abv: 15.5% Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $20 plum are accented by anise, pepper and dried violet in this bold, aromatic wine. A blend of 80% Gre- Domaine Alary 2016 Cuvée Tradition (Cai- Cave de Cairanne 2016 Les Voconces (Cai- nache and 20% Mourvèdre, its black-cherry palate 89 ranne). Crisp and restrained compared to 88 ranne). Sweet spice and toast accent flavors is luxuriously plump but freshly balanced, nuanced the producer’s plusher bottlings this vintage, the of black cherry and fig preserve in this intensely by veins of dried herb and potpourri florals. Enjoy Tradition offers zesty black-cherry flavor marked by fleshy, forward wine. It’s a concentrated but plush, this forward, pretty wine with fine, lingering tan- licorice and pepper. A blend of Grenache, Syrah and easy-drinking wine given structure from fine- nins now through 2023. Saranty Imports. —A.I. Carignan, it’s moderately full in body and balanced tipped, penetrating tannins. Enjoy now–2022. G&B abv: 15% Price: $35 freshly on the midpalate. Enjoy this approachable, Importers. —A.I. elegant wine now through 2023. Weygandt-Met- abv: NA Price: $NA Pierre Amadieu 2015 Romane Machotte (Gigo- zler. —A.I. 91 ndas). Elegant shards of granite and crushed abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Domaine Cros de Romet 2016 Cairanne. Aro- mineral lend freshness to plump, juicy mulberry 88 mas of baked plums and blackberry pre- and plum in this wine. A deeply fruity, full-bodied Domaine Alary 2016 La Brunote (Cairanne). serves are juxtaposed by savory notes of wet earth, blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah, its plush- 89 Blackberry and plum preserves are tinged forest floor and anise in this big, firmly structured ness is framed by soft, easy tannins and a lingering with dried sage, thyme and wild mint in this rich, red. It’s a brawny, angular wine with bold concen- cling of black fruit. It’s an approachable yet satisfy- ruddy blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Carignan. trations of fleshy black-fruit flavors and a gripping, ing wine neatly balancing fruit and earth, to enjoy It’s a spicy, opulent wine edged by firm, fine-grained tannic finish. Wines of France Inc. —A.I. now through 2023. Saranty Imports. —A.I. tannins. Ready now it should drink well through abv: 15% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $33 2023. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $NA Grandes Serres 2017 Carius (Cairanne). 88 Primary black-cherry and berry aromas CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE Domaine Beau Mistral 2017 Les Garrigues abound in this approachably fruit-forward wine. 89 (Cairanne). Pristine but juicy black- Appreciate this uncomplicated but juicy sip for its Alain Jaume et Fils 2016 Domaine Grand berry and plum flavors are forward yet elegantly buoyant fruit character. —A.I. 95 Veneur Vieilles Vignes (Châteauneuf-du- restrained in this easy-drinking blend of Grenache, abv: NA Price: $NA Pape). Crisp, sun-kissed cherry and wild-straw- Syrah and Cinsault. It’s approachable and primary berry notes introduce this floral, perfumed wine. in nature but freshly composed, finishing on a tight Roche 2016 Cairanne. Plush notes of baked Made from predominantly old vines, it’s intensely grip of tannins. Enjoy now through 2021 for its 88 black plums and blueberry preserves are concentrated and forward in fruit yet shaded by fruity exuberance. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.I. juxtaposed by notes of forest floor, char and spice hints of violet, lavender and bramble. This full- abv: 13.8% Price: $NA in this full-bodied, sturdy wine. It’s a touch jammy bodied, unctuous wine with fine, gripping tannins on the palate yet slightly angular too, finishing on should improve through 2030 and hold further. Domaine Fond Croze 2016 Cairanne. Ripe, dense, gripping tannins. —A.I. Kysela Père et Fils. Cellar Selection. —A.I. 89 pristine blackberry and cherry flavors are abv: 15% Price: $NA abv: 15% Price: $120 touched with sweet spice in this easy-drinking Grenache-dominant blend. It’s a lush, silky wine NewRhône Millesimes 2016 Romain Duver- Domaine du Pegau 2013 Cuvée Laurence yet delicate in texture. The fresh finish is marked by 87 nay (Cairanne). This is a buoyantly fruity, 95 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Tasted five years chalky, persistent tannins. Enjoy now–2022. Serge forward wine full of primary cherry and berry aro- after bottling, this wine still shows a core of dried Doré Selections. —A.I. mas accented by hints of sweet spice and nut skins. strawberry and cherry flavor, but it’s shaded by abv: 15.5% Price: $40 Easy drinking and juicy, it has a slightly pucker- umami tones of balsamic, leather and mushroom. ing midpalate and fine-tipped, easy tannins. Drink It’s intoxicatingly rich on the palate but balanced La Ferme de Gaby 2016 Cairanne. Fleshy, through 2022. Grape Expectations (CA). —A.I. freshly, edged by delicate tea tannins. This complex 89 slightly ruddy flavors of preserved black- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA wine shows its savory side elegantly. It drinks well berry and plum are plump and easy on the palate now but should hold till 2024. Hand Picked Selec- of this full-bodied, warming red. It’s a touch jammy tions. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. but freshened by sunny acidity. A firm grip of acid- GIGONDAS abv: 14.5% Price: $115 ity lends structure on the finish. Enjoy now–2022. Tri-Vin Imports. —A.I. Arnoux & Fils 2015 Vieilles Vignes (Gigon- Domaine la Millière 2013 Vieilles Vignes abv: 15% Price: $30 92 das). Luscious describes this rich, palate- 94 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Earth and spice clinging Grenache. Black cherry and mulberry juxtapose delicate black-cherry flavor in this ele- Pierre Amadieu 2016 Les Hautes Rives (Cai- flavors are lavishly ripe but pristine, accented gantly evolving wine. Tasted five years after bot- 89 ranne). Intensely ripe blackberry and cherry by sweet spice and chocolate. It’s full bodied and tling, it’s already showing prominent notes of san- flavors are slightly muted in this plush, juicy blend unctuous yet freshly composed, fringed with fine, dalwood and forest floor along with umami-rich of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. It’s a rounded feathery tannins. Enjoy this forward but elegant notes of leather. Moderately full bodied and freshly but pertly balanced wine, with a fine-grained grip of wine now through 2025. Monsieur Touton Selec- balanced, it’s a stately wine finishing on ripe, feath- tannins on the finish. Enjoy now–2022. Fruit of the tion Ltd. —A.I. ery tannins. Lovely now it should hold till 2023. Vines, Inc. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $24 Saranty Imports. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 14% Price: $58 Famille Perrin 2015 La Gille (Gigondas). For Vignobles et Compagnie 2016 Les Terrasses 92 full review see page 8. Alain Jaume et Fils 2016 Domaine Grand 89 de l’Aygues (Cairanne). Silky, soft streaks abv: 14.5% Price: $39 93 Veneur Le Miocène (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). of preserved black cherry and blackberry make Accents of toast, spice and nut lend nuance to this Grenache-Syrah blend juicy and approachable. Louis Bernard 2015 Gigondas. For full review intensely ripe black cherry and preserved straw- Full bodied and warming, it’s accented by anise 92 see page 9. berry in this opulent wine. It’s boldly fruity yet anchored by firm, mouth-dampening tannins on the abv: 13.5% Price: $35 savory, shaded by umami tones of balsamic vinegar,

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 soy sauce and earth. This full-bodied, complex wine ate. It drinks beautifully now but should continue 2021 and hold a few years further. Robert Kacher is ready now but could improve through 2026 and to improve through 2026. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. Selections. —A.I. hold further. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. abv: 15% Price: $30 abv: 14% Price: $25 abv: 15% Price: $53 Domaine de la Mordorée 2016 La Reine Des Château de Nages 2014 JT (Costières de La Célestière 2013 Tradition (Châteauneuf- 93 Bois (Lirac). Violet and licorice candy lend 91 Nîmes). Unctuous and open knit yet surpris- 93 du-Pape). Intensely ripe blackberry and spice and perfume to this plump, penetrating blend ingly nuanced, this luscious blend of 95% Syrah strawberry flavors are muted by layers of savory, of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. It’s loaded with and 5% Mourvèdre offers loads of fleshy black- earthen complexities in this wine. Tasted five sun-kissed cherry flavor but shaded by umami notes cherry and plum flavors offset by cinnamon, cocoa, years after bottling, it’s still concentrated in fruit of mushroom and leather too. Luscious but sleek, dried mint and thyme. It’s densely concentrated yet suggests prominent notes of beet root, leather this polished wine is marked by fine, feathery tan- yet briskly balanced, finishing elegantly on a bite of and smoked meat. A rich, complex wine, it finishes nins. Ready now it should improve through 2026. fine-grained tannins. Saranty Imports. —A.I. long on fine, integrated tannins. Enjoy now–2024. Kysela Père et Fils. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Saranty Imports. —A.I. abv: 15% Price: $43 abv: 15% Price: $44 Michel Gassier 2015 Nostre Païs (Costières Domaine de la Mordorée 2016 La Dame 90 de Nîmes). Plush blackberry and mulberry Clos Saint Michel 2013 Grand Vin 92 Rousse (Lirac). Plush layers of preserved flavors are intensely primary in this approachable 92 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape).­ Five years after plum and cherry are speckled by darker tones of lic- yet nuanced wine. Deeply fruity and forward, it’s bottling, this plump yet elegantly balanced wine orice, granite and dried earth in this plump, envel- shaded by anise, dark chocolate, bramble and herb. continues to offer primary black-cherry and rasp- oping red. Full bodied and rippling like silk, it’s a Luscious and velvety on the palate, the wine fin- berry flavors with a textural cling. It’s a pristinely powerful yet open-knit wine with a soft, cocoa- ishes on warming notes of smoked meat and fine, fruity wine with supple, soft tannins that should powder finish. Enjoy now–2023. Kysela Père et Fils. persistent tannins. European Cellars. —A.I. improve through 2023 and hold further. Saranty —A.I. abv: 15% Price: $22 Imports. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $23 abv: 14.5% Price: $54 Tortoise Creek 2015 Le Charmel Syrah-Gre- Château de Ségriès 2016 Cuvée Réservée 88 nache (Costières de Nîmes). For full review La Célestière 2012 La Croze (Châteauneuf- 90 (Lirac). Forward and plush, this full-bodied see page 103. Best Buy. 92 du-Pape). A slight bricking on the hue and red offers ripe, primary flavors of summer plum and abv: 13% Price: $12 savory notes of barley, earth and dried herbs suggest preserved cherry nuanced by subtle hints of bram- maturity in this late-release wine tasted six years ble, dried mushroom and earth. It’s a juicy, easy- Mas Carlot 2013 Les Enfants Terribles after bottling. Black-cherry and raspberry flavors drinking wine that’s freshly balanced and framed 87 (Costières de Nîmes). Primary, intensely are still concentrated but elegantly muted by earth by fine, lingering tannins. Enjoy now–2022. Kysela fleshy blackberry and plum flavors are shaded with tones. It’s a stately wine, with a silky, mouthwater- Père et Fils. —A.I. milk chocolate and sweet spice in this unabashedly ing palate. Although it drinks well now, it should abv: 14.5% Price: $23 fruity, forward red. It’s plush and easy on the palate, hold till 2022. Saranty Imports. —A.I. enveloped by the softest of tannins and finishing abv: 15% Price: $47 Domaine Coudoulis 2016 Lirac. Juicy and with a luscious cling. Enjoy now–2020. Domaine 89 easy drinking, this voluptuous red offers Select Wine & Spirits. —A.I. Pierre Henri Morel 2016 Châteauneuf-du- plump black-cherry and plum flavors accented by abv: 14.5% Price: $15 92 Pape. Ripe black cherry and raspberry are anise and cinnamon. Approachably ripe and pri- accented by sweet spice and whiffs of banana bread mary in style, it’s anchored by a pleasant bite of in this Grenache-dominant red. Fine, feathery tan- tannins and lingering warmth on the finish. Enjoy CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES nins mark the finish. Full bodied and opulent, it’s now–2022. Saranty Imports. —A.I. already approachable but has enough concentration abv: 15% Price: $17 Famille Perrin 2016 Côtes du Rhône Villages. to improve through 2026 and hold further. Saranty 90 Inviting black-cherry and plum flavors are Imports. —A.I. nuanced by layers of bramble, garrigue and forest abv: 15% Price: $47 COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES floor in this impeccably balanced wine. Black-fruit characteristics are ripe and pristine, finishing on Rémy Ferbras 2016 Terre de Mistral (Châ- Michel Gassier 2014 Lou Coucardié (Costières fine-grained tannins and a peppering of sweet anise. 92 teauneuf-du-Pape). Equal parts fruit and 92 de Nîmes). Brooding and brawny yet ele- It’s a fantastic value to enjoy now through 2021. savory, this full-bodied red offers loads of pristinely gantly balanced, this voluptuous blend of 45% Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —A.I. ripe cherry and berry flavors offset by hints of soy Mourvèdre, 35% Grenache and 20% Syrah offers abv: 13.5% Price: $15 sauce, earth and graphite. It’s a silky, supple sip bal- concentrated black-cherry and cassis flavors anced by fresh mineral tones and ripe, integrated accented by cinnamon and black pepper. It’s a big Louis Bernard 2016 Louis (Côtes du Rhône tannins. Ready now it should improve through wine but structured by upright, velvet tannins and 90 Villages). Intensely ripe black-cherry flavor 2026. Prestige Beverage Group. —A.I. a touch of freshness that lightens the finish. Enjoy is shaded by hints of barnyard, bramble and gar- abv: 14% Price: $40 now–2022. European Cellars. —A.I. rigue in this well-priced wine. It’s lush and open abv: 15% Price: $34 knit in fruit character but complex too. The long finish ends on fine-grained, velvety tannins. Enjoy LIRAC Château d’Or et de Gueules 2014 Trassegum now–2022. Boisset Collection. —A.I. 91 (Costières de Nîmes). Intensely ripe black- abv: 14% Price: $17 Alain Jaume et Fils 2016 Domaine Du Clos De cherry and cassis notes are shaded by dried mint, 93 Sixte (Lirac). Fleshy plum and black-cherry licorice and spice in this richly concentrated blend Pierre Henri Morel 2016 Signargues (Côtes flavors are juxtaposed by dark shades of anise, of 50% Syrah, 25% Carignan and 25% Mourvèdre. 90 du Rhône Villages). Pristine, plummy black crushed granite and sage in this bold, richly tex- A polished sip, it’s framed by fine, feathery tannins plum and cherry perfume this supple, silky red. tured wine. Polished and penetrating, the wine is and a long finish. The wine should improve through Black-fruit flavors are bold in concentration but lifted by tangs of crushed mineral on the midpal- muted by hints of earth, dried herb and moss. It’s

WINEMAG.COM | 23

BUYINGGUIDE an elegant, plush wine balanced by fresh acidity and bodied and silken, it’s an easy-going, approachable Domaine Brusset 2016 L’Esprit de Papet (Cai- fine, velvety tannins. Saranty Imports. —A.I. red with soft tannins. J et R Selections. —A.I. 92 ranne). Glimmers of toast and sweet spice abv: 14% Price: $17 abv: 14% Price: $25 are integrated from nose to finish in this lavish white wine. Fermented and aged in new oak barrels, Les Dauphins 2016 Made with Organic Halos de Jupiter 2016 Côtes du Rhône. Lico- it’s an opulent but elegantly balanced wine juxta- 89 Grapes (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Elegant 88 rice and cinnamon lend a spicy tone to pre- posing ripe yellow apple and pear flavors against yet easy drinking, this spectacular value wine offers served blackberries and plums in this fleshy, full- layers of cream and honey. Soft acidity accentuates sumptuous black-cherry and plum flavors accented bodied blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah. its plump, hedonistic style. Enjoyable now–2026. by earth, licorice and coffee notes. It’s a concen- Smooth and unctuous, it has rounded acidity and MS Walker. —A.I. trated, luscious wine with a warmly spiced finish soft, easy tannins. Enjoy this juicy, hedonistic sip abv: 14% Price: $30 and soft, feathery tannins. Enjoy now–2021. Mon- now through 2021. Saranty Imports. —A.I. sieur Touton Selection Ltd. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 15% Price: $21 Grandes Serres 2017 Carius (Cairanne). Gor- abv: 14% Price: $12 91 geous white blossoms and pink grapefruits Léon Perdigal 2017 Côtes du Rhône. A touch burst from nose to finish in this fresh, citrusy white. Bieler Père et Fils 2016 La Jassine (Côtes du 88 of sweet beetroot flavor lends earthiness It’s full bodied and unctuous in texture but bal- 88 Rhône Villages). For full review see page 16. to otherwise forward, plummy blackberry and anced crisply by hits of lemon zest and a cool min- abv: 14.5% Price: $16 cherry flavors in this wine. Moderately full bodied, eral undertone. The finish lingers on notes of wax it’s framed by fine, easy tannins. Enjoy this juicy, and chalk. Enjoy now–2021. —A.I. Domaine Guy Mousset 2016 Les Garrigues brightly concentrated wine now through 2021. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 88 (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Primary, juicy Vinamericas Selections. —A.I. blackberry and black-cherry flavors dominate in abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Domaine les Hautes Cances 2017 Tradition this cheery, easy-drinking blend of 70% Grenache 90 (Cairanne). Fresh tangerine peels and white and 30% Syrah. It’s a plush, brawny wine with con- Gabriel Meffre 2017 Saint-Vincent (Côtes florals perfume this silky, richly textured blend of centrated but straightforward black-fruit flavors 87 du Rhône). Easy, forward plum and cherry four traditional Rhône white grapes. It’s full bodied and a touch of warmth that lingers on the finish. flavors abound in this ripe, juicy red. A Grenache- and slightly warming on the palate but balanced by Saranty Imports. —A.I. dominant blend, it’s an approachable sip for enjoy- a pert mineral tone and a pleasant bite of bitter- abv: 14.5% Price: $23 ment young. Soft, fine tannins and a touch of black ness on the finish. Enjoy now–2022. Bradley Alan pepper mark the finish. Vision Wine & Spirits. —A.I. Imports LLC. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $14 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA CÔTES DU RHÔNE Roquatelle 2017 Côtes du Rhône. Ripe, juicy Domaine de Galuval 2016 L’Olivier (Cai- Alain Jaume et Fils 2016 Domaine Grand 87 black-cherry and plum flavors aren’t deeply 88 ranne). Delicate spice tones accent broad 89 Veneur Les Champauvins (Côtes du Rhône). concentrated but this fresh, fruit-forward wine has yellow apple and lemon flavors in this soft, silky Fleshy, primary black-plum and black-cherry fla- easy appeal. Fresh acidity and fine, upright tannins blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Clairette and vors are tinged by burnt caramel and violet candy mark the finish. Drink now–2021. —A.I. Viognier. Integrated but fresh acidity accentu- in this plump, silky wine. Full bodied and volup- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA ates its warm, rounded feel. Enjoy now–2020. J. tuously textured, it finishes on soft, feathery tan- Strecker Selections. —A.I. nins, with a whisper of smoke that lends elegance. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Enjoy now–2023. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. OTHER RED WINE abv: 15% Price: $20 Domaine Alary 2017 L’Estevenas (Cairanne). Les Vignerons du Castelas 2016 Oak Barrel 87 This blend of Clairette and Roussanne took Domaine de Châteaumar 2016 Cuvée Vin- 90 Selection (Côtes du Rhône Brézème). Dark some time and aeration to open but eventually 89 cent Selection Syrah (Côtes du Rhône). Faint spice, bramble and sun-dried garrigue juxtapose revealed fresh, lemony notes accented by hints of hints of granite and dried thyme lend some complex- plush black cherry and plum in this rich, intensely sugar cookie and smoke. It’s a full bodied but fresh ity to this plush, smoothly edged red. Blackberry- fruity red. A blend of 80% Syrah and 20% Gre- wine with a pert yellow-apple finish. Weygandt- preserve and mulberry flavors are rich and spicy, nache, it’s a dark, sultry sip that’s deeply fruity yet Metzler. —A.I. falling softly on the palate with yielding acidity and earthen and savory too. The finish offers plush, easy abv: NA Price: $NA ripe, easy tannins. Enjoy this full-bodied, luscious tannins and a hint of leather. La Ville Imports. —A.I. sip now through 2022. LefGroup, LLC. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Domaine Boisson 2016 L’Exigence (Cai- abv: 13.5% Price: $18 87 ranne). Aromas of pressed apple and pear are peppered with spice in this soft, rounded M. Chapoutier 2017 Belleruche (Côtes du RHÔNE VALLEY wine. A Roussanne-dominant blend augmented by 89 Rhône). Intensely ripe blackberry and Clairette and Grenache Blanc, it’s an easy drinking, plum flavors are pristine and lip smacking in this WHITE WINES slightly savory wine freshened by sunny acidity. A fruit-forward yet elegant wine. Soft and plummy on slight phenolic grip on the finish lends structure. the palate, it has a hint of granite minerality. Ripe, CAIRANNE Enjoy now–2020. Alain Junguenet Selection. —A.I. feathery tannins accentuate its rounded appeal. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Enjoy now–2021. Terlato Wines International. Domaine Boisson 2017 Silice (Cairanne). —A.I. 93 Whiffs of sweet spice, honeysuckle and Domaine Brusset 2017 Les Travers (Cai- abv: 14% Price: $17 orange cream adorn this silky, glycerol blend of 87 ranne). Initial whiffs of smoke and earth give Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne. It’s a way to brighter notes of lemon pith and dried gar- Domaine de l’Espigouette 2016 Latour Bel plush sip boasting yellow apple and pear flavors and rigue with substantial aeration. It’s full bodied and 88 Air (Côtes du Rhône). Notes of smoke and soft acidity that penetrates with silky persistence. freshly composed, with glimmers of fresh citrus on dark earth subside with aeration to reveal ripe, for- Enjoy now–2023. Alain Junguenet Selection. —A.I. the palate. MS Walker. —A.I. ward tones of blackberry and plum in this wine. Full abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 the palate of this Clairette-dominant white blend Domaine de la Brunely 2017 Vacqueyras. VACQUEYRAS offers loads of ripe, concentrated pear and white- 88 Fresh yellow-apple and lemon-rind flavors peach flavors. It’s a penetrating, fruity wine are accented by touches of sweet spice and dried Domaine Fontaine du Clos 2016 Castillon accented by warming hints of spice and vanilla. Full herbs in this softly textured, dry white blend. It’s 91 (Vacqueyras). Hints of toast and pressed yel- bodied and quite silky on the palate, it’s a textured a moderately full-bodied, moderately concentrated low apple on the nose gain concentration on the wine to enjoy now through 2021. Wine Traditions. wine with a rounded, plush palate. Enjoy now– palate of this full-bodied blend of Grenache Blanc, —A.I. 2021. Grape Expectations (CA). —A.I. Marsanne and Roussanne. It’s a ripe, rich white abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $20 with sunny apple flavors accented by touches of spice and cashew. Salty mineral notes lend fresh- Mas des Restanques 2017 Vacqueyras. Hints Domaine de Montvac 2016 Mélodine (Vac- ness to a long, elegant finish. Enjoy now–2022. Luxe 90 of vanilla, toast and dried herbs accent 88 queyras). Initially quite closed and earthen, Wines & Spirits. —A.I. ripe yellow apple in this Viognier-dominant white this wine has brighter whiffs of tangerine and honey abv: 13.5% Price: $45 blend. Fermented and aged in oak, it’s a luscious, that peek through with time and aeration. Made voluptuously textured wine with a pert acidic bal- predominantly from Clairette and Roussanne along Le Clos des Cazaux 2016 Vieilles Vignes (Vac- ance. An open-knit, lavish wine, it drinks well now with smaller proportions of Bourboulenc and Viog- 91 queyras). Wafts of vanilla, spice and toast but should hold well through 2027. Vintage Wine nier, it’s a plump, juicy wine with pleasing flavors accent ripe but slightly muted yellow peach and Marketing. —A.I. of lemon and yellow apple. Hints of sweet spice and tangerine flavors in this oak-aged wine. Made pre- abv: 14.6% Price: $NA cashew linger on the finish. Enjoy now–2021. T. dominantly from Clairette and smaller proportions Edward Wines Ltd. —A.I. of Roussanne and Viogner, it’s full bodied and richly Château des Roques 2017 Cuvée Blanche abv: 14% Price: $26 styled. It appeals to lovers of lavishly oaked wines 89 (Vacqueyras). Vinified entirely in stainless but maintains balance and elegance. Enjoy now– steel, this full-bodied but fresh wine offers cutting Domaine la Monardiere 2016 Galéjade (Vac- 2023. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. apricot and lemon flavors. A blend of four tradi- 88 queyras). Hints of honey and fresh hay abv: 13.5% Price: $45 tional Rhône white grapes, it’s a silky wine balanced accent yellow-apple and pear flavors in this plump, by a crisp fruit character. Enjoy now through 2022. full-bodied white. A blend of Roussanne, Grenache Château Lestours Clocher 2016 Les Peni- Wine Export. —A.I. Blanc and Clairette, it’s a softly textured wine with 90 tents (Vacqueyras). Blossomy yet elegantly abv: 14.5% Price: $25 a lingering cashew finish. Enjoy now–2021. David restrained, this Grenache-Blanc-dominant blend Bowler Wine. —A.I. offers white peach and apricot flavors shaded by Château des Roques 2016 Cuvée Blanche abv: 13.5% Price: $35 and mineral tones. It’s a soft, easy-drinking wine 89 (Vacqueyras). This wine’s golden hue and with a refreshing finish. Enjoy now through 2020 slightly muted notes of yellow apple and quince Arnoux & Fils 2017 Vieux Clocher (Vacquey- for its youthful appeal. Bandol Wines Inc. —A.I. already suggest a bit of maturation. Vinified with- 87 ras). Delicate yellow-apple and pear notes abv: 13.5% Price: $24 out oak influence, it has a mineral transparency have a waxy tinge in this dry, full-bodied white. that’s appealing even without primary fruit. It’s a It’s rich and mouthfilling in texture, with a mod- Domaine des Amouriers 2016 Les Amouriers full-bodied, fleshy wine but pertly balanced. Enjoy erate concentration of apple and tangerine flavors. 90 (Vacqueyras). A delicate whisper of vanilla now–2020. Terroirs Wine Export. —A.I. Soft and rounded in acidity, it gains structure from and spice extends from nose to finish in this wine, abv: 14% Price: $25 a pleasant bite of bitterness on the finish. Enjoy accenting ripe but restrained apple, pear and lemon now–2022. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —A.I. flavors. It’s a voluptuous, full-bodied wine with a Domaine la Fourmone 2017 Le Fleurantine abv: 13.5% Price: $22 soft, pliant mouthfeel, but freshly balanced by hints 89 (Vacqueyras). This is a fresh, pretty wine of lemon and bitter lime pith. Enjoy now–2021. made from a blend of Clairette, Grenache Blanc Château Bois D’Arlène 2017 L’Orée du Bois Robert Kacher Selections. —A.I. and Roussanne. The nose offers inviting whiffs of 87 (Vacqueyras). Initial aromas of smoke and abv: 14.5% Price: $NA orange blossom and grapefruit. Aged partially in earth give way to zesty lime pith, bramble and blos- French oak, it’s silky in texture and has a rounded som aromas in this wine. Fermented and matured Domaine Font Sarade 2017 Le Penchant acidity and richness of body that’s pleasing. Enjoy partially in large oak barrels, its apple and lemon 90 (Vacqueyras). The nose on this rich but now–2022. Vin de Garde Wines. —A.I. flavors are accented by whispers of vanilla and elegantly restrained wine suggests zesty strikes of abv: 13.5% Price: $36 spice. A voluptuous wine, it maintains freshness on crushed mineral, lemon and white blossom. It’s full the midpalate. The herbaceous finish is a touch veg- bodied and pleasantly leesy on the palate but fresh- Le Clos de Caveau 2017 Louis d’Or (Vacqu- etal. Drink now–2022. —A.I. ened by flavors of crisp white peach and apple. The 89 eyras). This full-bodied wine balances abv: 13.5% Price: $NA finish is tinged by a pleasant bite of phenolic bit- the richness of Grenache Blanc with the freshness terness. Enjoy now–2023. Imported Heritage. —A.I. of Clairette. Yellow-apple and apricot flavors are Domaine de la Tourade 2016 Eva (Vacquey- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA ripe but restrained, accented by hints of spice and 87 ras). Initially quite smoky and earthy on vanilla from vinification in French oak. It’s a rich, the nose, this full-bodied blend of 75% Clairette Domaine le Colombier 2017 Vacqueyras. The rounded sip with a slightly warming finish. Enjoy and 25% Grenache Blanc needs time and aeration 90 nose on this full-bodied blend of Grenache now–2022. MS Walker. —A.I. to allow prettier notes of yellow apple and fresh Blanc, Marsanne and Viognier is initially quite abv: 14.5% Price: $30 quince to peek through. It’s a rounded wine, with smoky and earthy. Aeration and time tease out soft acidity and a salty minerality on the finish. aromas of crisp pineapple and lemon accented by RhonéA 2017 Fontimple (Vacqueyras). Fresh Drink now–2021. Kindred Vines. —A.I. hints of cashew. Vinified entirely in stainless steel, 89 tangerine, lemon and white peach abound abv: 14% Price: $26 it offers ripe but pristine white-peach and apple from nose to finish in this unusually zesty blend of flavors balanced by a salty minerality. Enjoy now– six traditional Rhône grape varieties. It’s a bit puck- Domaine la Ligière 2016 Le Chemin Blanc 2021. —A.I. ering on the palate but the citrus flavors are refresh- 87 (Vacqueyras). The nose of this wine is ini- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA ing. The finish is moderately long. Enjoy now–2021. tially smoky and earthy but reveals delicate, slightly Metrowine Distribution. —A.I. muted notes of yellow apple and pear with aeration. Domaine les Ondines 2016 Passion (Vacqu- abv: 13.5% Price: $31 A blend of Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne 90 eyras). While the nose is quite restrained, and Viognier fermented partially in oak, it’s a full-

WINEMAG.COM | 25

BUYINGGUIDE bodied, ripe and rounded wine with soft acidity. A core of concentrated raspberry and red-cherry fla- orange peel. It’s a delicately textured yet impeccably tang of salt on the finish lends impact. Enjoy now– vors layered with sage, bramble and smoked meat. balanced, exuberant wine, with a long, honeyed fin- 2021. AP Wine Imports. —A.I. It’s an excellent year-round accompaniment to light ish. Enjoy now–2027. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $NA meals well through 2020. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. abv: 15% Price: $40/500 ml abv: 14.5% Price: $34 Domaine de la Verde 2017 Odyssey (Vacqu- Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2014 Le Chant des Griolles 86 eyras). Notes of pear and green banana are Domaine de la Mordorée 2017 La Dame Rousse 92 (Muscat de Beaumes de Venise). Lavish yet crisp and demure on the nose of this dry, medium- 91 (Tavel). Deep pink with an attractively dusky impeccably light on its feet, this Muscat vin doux bodied blend of Clairette and Bourboulenc. The pal- hue, this invigorating but sturdy rosé can be enjoyed naturel offers intensely ripe, concentrated tanger- ate is a bit savory, offering more earth and mineral year round. Ripe but fresh red-cherry and raspberry ine and honeysuckle notes offset by whiffs of fresh, than fresh fruit but its mineral freshness is pleas- flavors are nuanced by hints of bramble, dried gar- green herb. It’s a silky, sweet wine anchored by a ant. Drink now. Swiss Cellars. —A.I. rigue and earth. This refreshing yet penetrating lingering thread of minerality and integrated alco- abv: 13.5% Price: $26 wine should drink well through 2020. Kysela Père hol. Enjoy now–2024. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.I. et Fils. —A.I. abv: 15.5% Price: $21 abv: 14.5% Price: $26 CÔTES DU RHÔNE Domaine la Ligière 2016 Muscat de Beau- Lavau 2017 Tavel. Deep pink in the glass, 91 mes de Venise. Delicate white blossom and Ferraton Père et Fils 2017 Samorëns (Côtes 90 this full-bodied, perfumed rosé offers stone-fruit perfume mingles into hints of earth and 89 du Rhône). For full review see page 16. vibrant red-plum and sour-cherry aromas with an cashew in this wine. It’s honeyed and sweet, with abv: 14% Price: $16 elegant mineral undertone. Its red fruit flavors are crisp white-peach and apricot flavors balanced by a still refreshingly tart and concentrated, making it a fresh mineral tone. While light on its feet and inte- M. Chapoutier 2017 Belleruche (Côtes du lovely pairing with fish or fowl. Kinson The Future grated in alcohol, it’s a languorously textured vin 89 Rhône). Crushed stone and bright yellow of Wine. —A.I. doux naturel with rich, lingering sweetness on the apples introduce this full-bodied white blend. It’s abv: 13% Price: $19 finish. Enjoy now–2022. AP Wine Imports. —A.I. an elegant wine with a broad, satiny palate bright- abv: 15.5% Price: $NA ened by sunny tangerine acidity. A delicate bite of tea tannins marks the finish. Enjoy now–2022. Ter- CÔTES DU RHÔNE ROSÉ RhonéA 2017 Domaine du Paparotier (Mus- lato Wines International. —A.I. 91 cat de Beaumes de Venise). Gorgeous orange abv: 14% Price: $17 Alain Jaume et Fils 2017 Réserve Grand blossom, honeysuckle and white-peach aromas 89 Veneur Rosé (Côtes du Rhône). Pale and perfume this pretty vin doux naturel. It’s bold in Alain Jaume et Fils 2017 Réserve Grand dusky pink in hue, this bright, zesty wine suggests apricot and stone-fruit flavors and lip-smackingly 88 Veneur (Côtes du Rhône). Ripe yellow apple crisp raspberry and cassis flavors accented with sweet, but maintains a mineral elegance and fresh- and nectarine flavors have a touch of white-blossom earth and bramble. Full bodied yet invigorating, it’s ness from nose to finish. Balanced in alcohol, its fin- perfume in this spry, medium-bodied white. It’s not a refreshing wine that’s still drinking well almost a ish lingers sweetly and with uncloying purity. Enjoy a complex wine but fresh and quaffable. The finish year after bottling. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. now–2022. —A.I. is brisk and clean. Enjoy now–2020. Kysela Père et abv: 13% Price: $16 abv: 15% Price: $NA Fils. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $15 Lavau 2017 Rosé (Côtes du Rhône). Salmon Château du Trignon 2011 Muscat de Beaumes 89 pink in the glass, this concentrated yet spry 90 de Venise. This is a ripe, intensely fragrant Château Maucoil 2017 Côtes du Rhône Vil- rosé suggest tart raspberry and cherry flavors with vin doux naturel chock full of apricot and floral exu- 89 lages. A blend of equal proportions of delicate hints of rose petal and bramble. It’s still berance. Tasted after seven years in the bottle, it’s Grenache Blanc and Clairette, this full-bodied yet quite fresh a year after bottling and should drink still bold and concentrated in fruit, but with flavors vibrant white offers crisp apricot and tangerine well through the end of 2019. Kinson The Future of gearing towards candied apricot and fig rather than flavors offset by bites of lemon zest and crushed Wine. Best Buy. —A.I. primary fruit. Still, it’s an unctuous, appealing wine minerals. Enjoy this thirst-quenching wine now abv: 12.5% Price: $13 that’s integrated in alcohol and long on the finish. through 2021. Kinson The Future of Wine. —A.I. Enjoy now. David Milligan Selections. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $18 MUSCAT DE BEAUMES abv: 15.5% Price: $22 DE VENISE Domaine de Coyeux 2014 Elégans (Muscat OTHER WHITE WINE 89 de Beaumes de Venise). Tasted four years Domaine de la Pigeade 2016 Muscat de Beau- after bottling, this vin doux naturel’s honeysuckle Lavau 2015 La Decelle (Côtes du Rhône Vil- 93 mes de Venise. Elegance and purity abound and stone-fruit aromas are slightly muted on the 89 lages Valréas). A blend of 50% Marsanne in this fragrant . Aromas of white blos- nose. Delicate blossom and white-melon flavors and 50% Viognier, this crisply composed white som, apricot and tangerine skin are charming and are fresher on the palate but still suggest a tinge offers demure red apple, honey and apricot flavors. inviting. Flavors of honeysuckle and hibiscus nectar of savoriness reminiscent of fresh wheat. Still, it’s It’s not deeply concentrated or complex but lovely are concentrated and sweet, glazed with honey and a delicately textured dessert wine with integrated now for its refreshing, youthful vibe. Enjoy now– a lingering glycerol cling. It’s a fresh and sprightly alcohol and lacy sweetness that lingers on the fin- 2020. Kinson The Future of Wine. —A.I. sip with integrated alcohol and a long floral finish. ish. Drink now. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Enjoy now–2022. Next Level Spirits. —A.I. abv: 15% Price: $NA abv: 15% Price: $19/375 ml Domaine des Bernardins 2017 Muscat de TAVEL Domaine des Bernardins NV Hommage (Mus- 89 Beaumes de Venise. Made from a blend of 92 cat de Beaumes de Venise). Made from a 75% white and 25% black Muscat à petits grains, Domaine de la Mordorée 2017 La Reine Des blend of 75% white and 25% black Muscat à petits this light-footed vin doux naturel presents inviting 92 Bois (Tavel). While Grenache is dominant, grains, this salmon-hued vin doux naturel boasts whiffs of raspberry and caramel. Apricot, berry and this robust, full-bodied rosé is a blend of five tradi- a spicy, nutty charm. Flavors of dried fig and can- white-blossom notes on the palate are concentrated tional Rhône grapes. It’s a complex wine boasting a died quince are shaded by hazelnut, anise and dried and a touch candied in character. There’s a tinge of

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 alcoholic warmth throughout but this is a charm- tial. Drink from 2020. DB Wine Selection. Editors’ Domaine des Duc 2017 Saint-Amour. The ingly sweet and fruity tipple. Enjoy now–2022. Choice. —R.V. 90 22-acre vineyard belonging to the Duc fam- Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 ily has given this rich, structured wine. While it has abv: 15% Price: $32 plenty of juicy acidity, the tannins are most marked Pascal Berthier 2017 Esprit de Séduction at this young stage. The wine is dark, powerful, full Ravoire et Fils NV Beaumes to the Bone 92 (Saint-Amour). Firm and structured, this of spice and pepper. Tru Wines LLC. —R.V. 89 (Muscat de Beaumes de Venise). Whiffs rich wine also has considerable tannins. Its solid abv: 14.5% Price: $17 of yellow apple and pear seem waxy and slightly structure, touches of minerality and youthful acid- pressed on the nose, but appear with more purity ity all point to a wine in need of aging. Drink from Domaines Chermette 2017 Les Champs- on the palate of this Muscat vin doux naturel. It’s 2020. Jerome Selection. —R.V. 90 Grillés (Saint-Amour). The most northerly a fresh, finely textured wine with crisp quince and abv: 13.5% Price: $22 of the Beaujolais cru villages has produced a richly apple flavors and integrated alcohol and sweetness. structured wine, firm with tannins as well as bright A honeyed slick extends the finish. Knows Imports. Château de Belleverne 2017 La Madone red-berry fruits. It has density cut with intense —A.I. 91 (Saint-Amour). A ripe, soft wine with rich acidity that will soften over the next few months. abv: 15% Price: $18/500 ml berry fruits, this is smooth, velvet textured and Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. already delicious. Concentration comes from gener- abv: 13.5% Price: $27 RhonéA 2017 Carte Or (Muscat de Beaumes ous fruits with a splash of acidity. Drink from 2019. 89 de Venise). Inviting white-blossom and Anderson Ganne Wines. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Jean Loron 2017 La Victorine (Saint-Amour). honeydew aromas mingle into savory notes of fresh abv: 13% Price: $20 90 From an estate owned by Jacques Charlet, grain and green herb in this wine. White-peach, this wine has ripe tannins and rich black-currant honey and hibiscus-nectar flavors are delicately Château de Saint-Amour 2017 Saint-Amour. and cherry fruits. A firm core supports the fruit, sweet on the palate but have a twinge of grain too. 91 For full review see page 11. Editors’ Choice. giving an initial dry character to this wine. It will It’s a balanced vin doux naturel, however, harmo- abv: 13.5% Price: $23 develop well and should be drunk from 2020. Pel- nizing alcohol and sweetness. A honey tone charms legrini Bros. Wines, Inc. —R.V. on the finish. —A.I. Clos de la Brosse 2017 Saint-Amour. An 11-acre abv: 13% Price: $24 abv: 15% Price: $NA 91 vineyard in the northernmost of the Beaujo- lais cru villages is the source of this rich wine. It Pardon et Fils 2017 Les Pierres (Saint- Domaine de Coyeux 2009 Muscat de Beau- has structure, concentration, generous tannins and 90 Amour). This well-structured wine offers 88 mes de Venise. Intense floral perfume and a fresh edge of acidity. The wine will benefit from tannins and sophisticated black-cherry fruits. ripe muscat notes are lifted by a whiff of alcohol in some aging, so drink from 2019. Worldwide Cellars. Weight backs up the richness and mineral texture. this vin doux naturel. A decade after bottling, it’s —R.V. Named after the stones in the soil, the wine is ready luscious but shows maturation notes with apricot abv: 14% Price: $16 to drink while remaining firm. Saranty Imports. and honeysuckle flavors a bit candied rather than —R.V. fresh. Plush on the palate, it lingers with some heat Domaine du Clos du Fief 2017 Les Capitans abv: 14% Price: $19 on the finish. Enjoy now. Steep Hill Importing. —A.I. 91 (Saint-Amour). Named after the captains abv: 15.5% Price: $17/375 ml who used to control Saint-Amour, this wine has Vins Descombe 2017 Florent Descombe structure and layers of spice as well as some rich 90 (Saint-Amour). While the wine has all the berry fruits. Its tannins are still young, still right bright red fruits you would expect from this appel- BEAUJOLAIS up front, showing the wine’s aging potential. Drink lation, it also has a firmly tannic edge that will allow from 2020. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. it to age. It is ripe with fruitiness and acidity to SAINT-AMOUR abv: 13% Price: $22 match. DHI Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $40 Domaine Chardigny 2017 Le Clos du Chap- Mommessin 2017 Gamay (Saint-Amour). This 93 itre (Saint-Amour). In this structured wine, 91 major Beaujolais negociant has produced a Jean Loron 2017 Domaine des Billards (Saint- some firm tannins sustain the rich black fruits. Its good example of the most northerly of the cru vil- 89 Amour). Facing southeast, this vineyard is freshness and dark core are still very young, mean- lages. Its structure and dense texture partner with rich in sandstone and granite, giving weight and ing the wine needs to age. It is heading to be a fine ripe black fruits and solid, juicy berry flavors. Drink minerality to this wine. Black fruits show strongly, wine, so wait until 2020. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. this wine from 2019. Boisset Collection. —R.V. backed by acidity and tannins. All these elements —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $30 suggest a wine that will age. Drink from 2020. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 David Bowler Wine. —R.V. Château Bonnet 2016 Côte de Besset (Saint- abv: 14% Price: $20 Domaine de la Pirolette 2017 Saint-Amour. 90 Amour). Fifty-year-old vines create the 93 The 37-acre vineyard, one of the cru’s larg- basis of this ripe, concentrated wine. Big tannins Patrick Tranchand 2017 Coeur de Gamay est, is on the hill of Saint-Amour, close to the vil- and juicy berry flavors are lifted by freshness at the 89 (Saint-Amour). Playing on the name of lage church. It has produced a juicy wine, full of end. This rich wine will age. Drink from 2020. DHI Saint-Amour (named after a Roman soldier), this strawberry flavors and ripe acidity. Perfumed and Selections. —R.V. wine celebrates Gamay. Its juicy red-cherry flavors textured, this wine is developing, but needs some abv: 13.5% Price: $30 are bright while allowing space for tannins and time. Drink from 2020. David Bowler Wine. Edi- aging potential. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. tors’ Choice. —R.V. Domaine des Chers 2017 Vieilles Vignes abv: 13% Price: $22 abv: 14.5% Price: $16 90 (Saint-Amour). A rich and structured wine, this has powerful red-cherry flavors as well as a Georges Duboeuf 2017 Flower Label (Saint- Domaine du Breuil 2017 Saint-Amour. Com- firm substrate of tannins. These two rich elements 87 Amour). This full, ripe wine has plenty of 92 ing from the far north of Beaujolais, this will allow this dense wine to age. Drink from 2020. strawberry flavors as well as acidity. The tannins wine has the typical structure and solid tannins. Wines of France Inc. —R.V. are surprisingly light for this appellation, while the They mask the promise of the black-cherry fruits abv: 13.5% Price: $25 acidity is still intense. Wait to drink until late 2019. that will soon burst through. Then it will be a per- Quintessential Wines. —R.V. fumed, ripe wine with great structure and poten- abv: 13% Price: $20

WINEMAG.COM | 27

BUYINGGUIDE

Louis Dailly Fondateur 2017 Saint-Amour. density, promising good aging potential. Drink this a lift to the structure and to the final acidity. Drink 87 This soft, fruity wine is packed with red- wine from 2021. Pioneer Wine Company. —R.V. now. Anderson Ganne Wines. —R.V. cherry flavors and easy acidity. There is a light dust- abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $20 ing of tannin, although this wine is really all about fruit. L & L Imports. —R.V. Pardon et Fils 2017 Les Mouilles (Juliénas). Château de Pougelon 2017 Juliénas. This abv: 13.5% Price: $22 91 Firm tannins and a solid structure befit a 88 wine is tannic and firm, still obviously wine from this northern of the Beaujolais crus. young for a wine from this Beaujolais cru. Its struc- Its weight shows the potential of the black fruits. ture will soften into the juicy cherry fruits and crisp JULIÉNAS Offering structure and acidity, this wine will age acidity. Drink this wine from late 2019. Wine Uni- well. Drink from 2020. Saranty Imports. —R.V. verse Corp. —R.V. Domaines Laurent Perrachon & Fils 2016 Les abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 13% Price: $24 93 Vignes Centenaires (Juliénas). This small parcel, under two acres, is still planted with low- Domaine du Gry-Sablon 2017 La Petite yielding, century-old vines. Its density and rich- 90 Cabane (Juliénas). Named after the small CHÉNAS ness are impressive. This is enhanced by the wood workers’ cabin in the vineyard, this wine has rich aging that adds spice as well as hints of toast to the fruit, generous tannins and layers of spice and acid- Domaine Anita 2017 Prémium Les Brureaux ripe black fruits. With this concentration, the wine ity. The wine is all berry flavors with a fresh lift. 93 (Chénas). From a three-acre parcel, Anita needs time and shouldn’t be drunk before 2020. Drink from 2020. Chemin Des Vins. —R.V. Kuhnel’s wine is structured, firm and juicy. Dense Premier Sellers. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23 and rich, it offers black fruits, solid tannins and lay- abv: 13.5% Price: $28 ered acidity. Still young the wine will be best from Domaine Franck Besson 2016 Le Griottier 2021. AP Wine Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Pascal Aufranc 2016 Probus (Juliénas). Leg- 90 (Juliénas). Named after the cherry tree in abv: 13% Price: $33 93 end has it that the Roman Emperor Probus the vineyard, this wine is firm and solidly struc- introduced Gamay to Beaujolais, hence the name tured. It offers rich blackberry flavors and concen- Domaine Anita 2017 Cuvée P’tit Co Les Bru- of this wine as a tribute. It is a beautifully smooth, tration. Produced from organically grown grapes, it 92 reaux (Chénas). Powerful and concentrated, perfumed wine, benefiting from wood aging as well has a good lift, ripeness and a still-young structure. this wine is richly endowed. Wines from this cru, as generous tannins and black fruits. The wine is Wait to drink until 2020. Bonhomie Wine Imports. one of the smallest in Beaujolais, are naturally firm capable of further aging, so drink from 2020. Zan- —R.V. and tannic, as with this wine, giving aging potential. canella Importing Co. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25 Drink from 2020. AP Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 abv: NA Price: $25 Domaines Laurent Perrachon & Fils 2017 Château Bonnet 2016 Vieilles Vignes (Julié- 90 Les Mouilles (Juliénas). Ripe, fruity while Château des Jean-Loron 2016 Les Gandelins 92 nas). In this full and rich wine, great tan- also structured, this wine is concentrated. It comes 91 (Chénas). Grown on crumbly granite, this nins ride under the black fruits. The wine has struc- from a sloping five-acre parcel, giving tannins, red wine shows its mineral side as well as rich fruit. ture as well as the fruit of the vintage, suggesting fruits and good acidity all wrapped in an ageworthy Structured with firm tannins, the wine has a per- good potential for aging. Drink this well-structured parcel. Drink this wine from 2020. International fumed character that lifts the fruit’s richness and wine from 2020. DHI Selections. —R.V. Wines. —R.V. melds into the final acidity. Drink from 2019. DB abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $24 Wine Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23 Pascal Aufranc 2017 Les Cerisiers (Juliénas). Georges Duboeuf 2017 Flower Label (Julié- 92 Named after the cherry orchard adjoining 90 nas). For full review see page 14. Domaine du Granit 2016 Domaine de la Croix the vines, this wine is perfumed and full of fruit. abv: 13% Price: $20 91 Barraud Cuvée Prestige (Chénas). One year Partial aging in old wood barrels gives a smoothness in older wood barrels has given an extra dimension to the texture of the wine that will allow it to age Jean Loron 2017 Domaine de la Vieille Eglise to the ripe berry fruits of this wine. It adds rich- well. Drink from 2020. Zancanella Importing Co. 90 (Juliénas). From a vineyard known as Les ness and a smooth texture that lifts the fruitiness —R.V. Mouilles, this wine is firmly structured while also and acidity, providing further aging potential. Drink abv: 12.5% Price: $22 rich. Its tannins and touches of licorice are balanced from late 2019. Bertrand’s Wines. —R.V. by the black fruits that are developing. It has a good abv: 12.5% Price: $28 Château des Capitans 2017 Estate Bottled future with its tannins, acidity and dark fruit. Drink 91 (Juliénas). For full review see page 11. from 2020. BBR Imports. —R.V. Domaine Saint-Cyr 2017 Les Blémonts (Ché- abv: 14% Price: $22 abv: 13% Price: $20 91 nas). Low sulfur and wood aging both con- tribute to the deliciously structured fruitiness Domaine des Chers 2017 Vieilles Vignes (Julié- Château de Juliénas 2017 Cuvée Tradition of this wine. With its juicy black-cherry flavors, 91 nas). Selected from several parcels of old 89 (Juliénas). This wine is rich with young touches of minerality and some tannins, it is a wine vines, this wine is rich in tannins and red-berry fla- tannins that promise excellent aging. Ripe red- that will age. Drink from 2019. T. Elenteny Imports. vors. Minerality and structure are prominent at this berry fruits have a touch of spice as well as a lightly —R.V. young stage. With time, they will bring weight and herbal edge. It is developing well as its silky texture abv: 13% Price: $27 concentration to this ageworthy wine. Drink from begins to show. Drink from 2020. Fruit of the Vines, 2020. Wines of France Inc. —R.V. Inc. —R.V. Domaine Saint-Cyr 2017 Les Journets (Ché- abv: 13.5% Price: $22 abv: 13% Price: $22 91 nas). The Saint-Cyr family has produced a perfumed wine with ripe berry fruits, generous Domaines Laurent Perrachon & Fils 2017 Château de Belleverne 2017 Le Bois de Chat tannins and acidity. The nine months in wood have 91 Roche Bleue (Juliénas). Powerfully struc- 88 Vieilles Vignes (Juliénas). Ripe, lightly given richness and balance, while the low sulfur tured, this wine has rich tannins and ripe black structured and fruity, this wine is bright with acid- brings out the fruitiness. Drink from 2019. T. Elen- fruits. Concentration gives the wine strength and ity as well as tannins. Black-currant freshness gives teny Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $36

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 Yohan Lardy 2017 Les Deschamps (Chénas). Domaine Anita 2017 Coeur de Vigneronne ate though, the rich fruits come right to the fore. 91 Named after the single vineyard from which 94 (Moulin-à-Vent). The name translates as The wine has concentration, density and bold black it comes, this wine is juicy, generous and full of “heart of the winemaker,” recognizing owner Anita cherry and plum flavors. It needs to age. Drink from ripe berry flavors. The fruitiness and acidity shine Kuhnel’s place among the few women producers in 2022. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V. through this balanced wine, with added complexity Beaujolais. The wine is complex and intense, while abv: 13% Price: $43 from the wood aging. It will be ready from late 2019. also well structured and full of smooth fruits. Vel- Bonhomie Wine Imports. —R.V. vet tannins give a sense of structure while leaving Château des Jacques 2016 Clos du Grand Car- abv: 12.5% Price: $25 the freshness intact. Drink from 2022. AP Wine 93 quelin (Moulin-à-Vent). This single-vineyard Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. wine is dense and firmly structured. Bold tannins Château de Belleverne 2016 Cuvée Mandrin abv: 13% Price: $33 and rich black fruits are developing well although 90 (Chénas). This subtly perfumed wine has remain very young. The structure and dense texture the smoothness that comes with wood aging. It is Domaine Anita 2017 Reine de Nuit (Moulin- show the potential of the appellation. Drink this ripe with black-fruit flavors and generous tannins. 94 à-Vent). Night harvesting of grapes for this wine from 2020. Kobrand. —R.V. Drink from 2019. Anderson Ganne Wines. —R.V. wine has preserved freshness and fruitiness. It’s abv: 13.5% Price: $43 abv: 13% Price: $20 also allowed the tannins to have great play and den- sity. Structure and beautiful, juicy black fruits have Château du Moulin-à-Vent 2015 Champ de Château de Chénas 2016 Chénas. This a good future ahead of them. Drink this powerful 93 Cour (Moulin-à-Vent). From a parcel within 90 comes from the estate of the ornate 17th- wine from 2020. AP Wine Imports. —R.V. one of the top vineyards in Moulin-à-Vent, this century chateau of Chénas. With its rich tannins abv: 13% Price: $33 wine has weight and spiciness from the wood aging. and balance between spice and fruitiness, the wine Its tannins, still young, give both structure and is already open, full of berry flavors and acidity. Domaine Bertrand 2015 Infini (Moulin-à- emphasize the richness of the fruit. It provides a Drink now. Tryon Distributors. —R.V. 94 Vent). This rich wine is aged in old barrels fine example of the aging ability of great Beaujolais abv: 12.5% Price: $20 for more than two years. Spice, mint and ripe per- and will probably not be ready until 2020. Wilson fumed black fruits come together in a wine that has Daniels Ltd. —R.V. Pascal Aufranc 2017 En Rémont Vignes de weight, density and is just now becoming ready to abv: 13% Price: $59 90 1939 (Chénas). Vines planted in 1939 are drink. Timothy Perry. —R.V. the essence of this rich, concentrated wine that abv: 14% Price: $50 Château du Moulin-à-Vent 2015 Les Vérillats offers solid tannins as well as ripe fruits. A touch 93 (Moulin-à-Vent). Beautifully wood aged, this of spice adds further complexity. Drink from 2020. Domaine Labruyère 2016 Le Clos du Moulin- perfumed wine is rich and elegant. It comes from a Zancanella Importing Co. —R.V. 94 à-Vent (Moulin-à-Vent). This wood-aged single vineyard on the estate, offering a fine line in abv: 12.5% Price: $20 wine offers complex tannins and perfumed fruit. tannins as well as great black fruits. The wine has Ripe cherries and spice go with juicy blackberry fla- weight along with presence and style. Drink from Château Bonnet 2016 Vieilles Vignes Ché- vors to produce a wine that will age further. Drink 2020. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V. 89 nas). Fine tannins support the rich black from 2020. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar abv: 13% Price: $54 fruits of this wine. Solid and dense, it’s full of dark Selection. —R.V. berries, ripe tannins and good potential. Drink this abv: 13% Price: $79 Domaine de Briante 2015 Moulin-à-Vent. full, firm wine from 2020. DHI Selections. —R.V. 93 This Brouilly estate also has vines in the abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Yohan Lardy 2016 Vieilles Vignes de 1903 more northerly cru of Moulin-à-Vent. The rich and 94 (Moulin-à-Vent). This amazing wine comes perfumed wine is in the warm, concentrated style of Château de Belleverne 2017 Les Gays (Ché- from vines that are more than 100 years old. Its winemaker Lauren Frapin. It has weight, with dense 86 nas). This wine has intense fruitiness. With richness and concentration are impressive, while black-cherry flavors along with mint and spice. ripe tannins and juicy red-berry flavors, it is open the black fruits offer juicy acidity, spice and ripe Drink this full-bodied wine now and until 2023. and ready to drink. Anderson Ganne Wines. —R.V. tannins. This complex wine is well worth aging. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20 Drink from 2020. Bonhomie Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $28 abv: 12.5% Price: $30 Domaine Fond Moiroux 2011 Gros Vosges MOULIN-À-VENT Albert Bichot 2017 Domaine de Rochegrès 93 (Moulin-à-Vent). From a 22-acre estate, this 93 (Moulin-à-Vent). Acidity and richness give richly structured wine shows some mature tarry fla- Albert Bichot 2016 Domaine de Rochegrès this wine an opulent character. Ripe blackberry vors as well as delicious black fruits that have inte- 94 (Moulin-à-Vent). From a 12-acre parcel, this fruit are shot with acidity, still young and exuber- grated with time. This special cuvée is now ready to wine is ripe, with layers of wood, spice and black ant. The wine needs to soften and fill out to reveal drink. Loosen Bros. USA. —R.V. fruits. Opulent and generous, it has great potential. its true intensity. Drink from 2020. Albert Bichot abv: 13% Price: $35 The concentration and richness indicate a wine to USA. —R.V. age for a few more years. Drink from 2021. Albert abv: 13% Price: $38 Domaine Labruyère 2016 Le Carquelin (Mou- Bichot USA. —R.V. 93 lin-à-Vent). Big and rich, this generous wine abv: 13% Price: $59 Château de Belleverne 2016 Cuvée Mandrin has spice, juicy black fruits and fine tannins. It has 93 (Moulin-à-Vent). A light touch of wood developed well with a full, rich character. Coming Château du Moulin-à-Vent 2015 La Rochelle aging has given this wine ripe, perfumed flavors and from a single parcel, the wine shows a great sense of 94 (Moulin-à-Vent). This comes from a single rich tannins. A generous wine, it’s full of fruit, spice terroir. The estate is under the same ownership as vineyard facing southeast across the Saône Valley. and concentration. Produced from old vines, this Domaine Jacques Prieur in Meursault on the Côte Ripe tannins and great concentration are balanced dense wine is ready to drink from 2019. Anderson de Beaune. Drink the wine now. Frederick Wildman by opulent, spicy fruit and wonderful richness. The Ganne Wines. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. wine is just approaching maturity and will benefit abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $48 from further aging. Drink from 2021. Wilson Dan- iels Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Château des Jacques 2016 Clos de Rochegrès Domaine Richard Rottiers 2017 Moulin-à- abv: 13% Price: $66 93 (Moulin-à-Vent). The wood aging of this 93 Vent. Produced, like all this producer’s wine is apparent in the toasty aromas. On the pal- wines, from organically grown grapes, this is an

WINEMAG.COM | 29

BUYINGGUIDE aromatic wine. Wood aging has given the wine its fresher acidity to promise a wine that will have den- Domaine des Fontaines 2016 Moulin-à-Vent. richness and full, generous structure. Spice, black sity as well as attractive juiciness. Drink from 2020. 91 A rich wine with great tannins and attrac- fruits and acidity are all coming together. Drink Wines of France Inc. —R.V. tive , this is structured and packed with from 2020. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.5% Price: $29 both fruit and acidity. Still young, its fruitiness will —R.V. soften into something more serious and concen- abv: 13% Price: $30 Domaine du Granit 2015 Tradition (Moulin- trated. Total Beverage Solution. —R.V. 92 à-Vent). Aged in wood, stainless steel and abv: 13% Price: $25 Domaine Richard Rottiers 2017 Foudres cement tanks, this wine brings out spice as well as 93 (Moulin-à-Vent). Named after the large - clean, perfumed fruit. It has weight and structure Domaine Fond Moiroux 2016 Moulin-à-Vent. rels used for aging, this is a perfumed wine. Ripe as befits a wine from this appellation and a tense 91 The latest release from this estate has had tannins are a balanced part of the rich black fruits tannic character that will allow it to age. Drink from two years wood aging, giving it richness, spice and and intense spice that are setting the wine on a 2020. Old Creek Imports. —R.V. layers of wood to balance the ripe black fruits. It is a course for long-term aging. Drink from 2020. Fruit abv: 13.5% Price: $22 young wine, with acidity, ripeness and an excellent of the Vines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. future. Drink from 2020. Loosen Bros. USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $28 Domaine Fond Moiroux 2015 Moulin-à-Vent. abv: 13% Price: $25 92 Aged for two years in old barrels, this wine Château de Belleverne 2017 Les Seignaux has rich tannins as well as blackberry flavors. With Domaine Fond Moiroux 2011 Moulin-à-Vent. 92 (Moulin-à-Vent). Eighty-year-old vines a firm structure still developing, it is still a young 91 Beautifully structured, with black fruits still trained, in the old Beaujolais tradition, up indi- wine, packed with fruit and with crisp acidity at the showing through the tannins, this intense, fresh vidual poles, give this wine a rich character, with end. Loosen Bros. USA. —R.V. wine is approaching maturity. Its pure line of fruit, some firm tannins and a sold texture. Weight and abv: 13% Price: $25 now tempered by the hint of secondary flavors, concentration balance the juicy acidity and black means this wine is ready to drink. Loosen Bros. fruits. Drink the wine from 2020. Anderson Ganne Domaine Fond Moiroux 2010 Moulin-à-Vent. USA. —R.V. Wines. —R.V. 92 With a few years of age, this wine is richly abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $20 ripe in character and soft in tannins, making it ready to drink. Cherry and red berry flavors are con- Domaine Labruyère 2016 Champ de Cour Château du Moulin-à-Vent 2015 Moulin-à- centrated on the palate, honed by an edge of dry- 91 (Moulin-à-Vent). Under the same ownership 92 Vent. This wine is beautifully balanced, ness. Drink this very fine, mature wine now. Loosen as Domaine Jacques Prieur in Meursault on the Côte with rich tannins and great concentration. Ripe Bros. USA. —R.V. de Beaune, this estate has produced a rich wine, black fruits dominate the structure, giving it den- abv: 12% Price: $25 generously textured and full of black fruits. It has sity that is enhanced by the wood aging. The after- weight and concentration as well as ripe berry fla- taste is balanced, juicy and ready to drink. Wilson Domaines Chermette 2017 Les Trois Roches vors. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Daniels Ltd. —R.V. 92 (Moulin-à-Vent). A blend of three parcels abv: 13% Price: $35 abv: 13.5% Price: $42 giving three different aspects of soil, this wine is firmly structured, still developing its tannins and Domaines Laurent Perrachon & Fils 2015 Les Domaine Anita 2017 Très Vieille Vigne Les solid fruit. The ripe black fruits are showing well, 91 Burdelines (Moulin-à-Vent). From 60- to 92 Caves (Moulin-à-Vent). This mineral-driven full of acidity and spice while the dry core is just 80-year-old vines, this is a concentrated wine. It is wine from 80-year-old vines shows the granite soils beginning to soften. Drink from 2020. Weygandt- rich with fruits that are moving into a more mature of the vineyard. The resulting structure and density Metzler. —R.V. phase, while still preserving structure and tannins. sustain the ripe fruits, fine tannins and acidity. The abv: 13% Price: $27 This powerful wine needs a few more months, so wine should be aged further, so drink from 2021. AP drink from late 2019. Premier Sellers. —R.V. Wine Imports. —R.V. Lucien Lardy 2017 Les Thorins (Moulin-à- abv: 13% Price: $27 abv: 13% Price: $28 92 Vent). Structured and full of tannins, this wine has a good future. It is not ready yet, but the Gilles Gelin 2017 Moulin-à-Vent. The nego- Domaine de Colonat 2017 Vieilles Vignes density of the wine will soften to give great richness, 91 ciant side of the Gellin family’s Domaine 92 (Moulin-à-Vent). As befits old vines from with layers of black fruits, acidity and spice from des Nugues has produced a richly structured wine, the Collonge family’s top Beaujolais cru, this wine the old-wood aging. Drink from 2021. Zancanella showing the density and tannins of this appellation. has great weight and impressive concentration. Importing Co. —R.V. It also hints at the fruit that is beginning to show. Juicy acidity, rich tannins and blackberry flavors all abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Let the blackberry flavors develop and drink the lead to a complete wine that needs time to mature. wine from 2020. Petit Pois. —R.V. Wait until 2020 before drinking. Latitude Wines, Colin Bourisset 2015 Domaine Bourisset (Mou- abv: 13% Price: $23 Inc. —R.V. 91 lin-à-Vent). This vineyard is on the slope abv: 13% Price: $28 just below the famous windmill of Moulin-à-Vent. Jean Loron 2017 Xavier et Nicolas Barbet Vie- Bringing out both tannins and rich black plum and 91 illes Vignes (Moulin-à-Vent). A powerful and Domaine de Roche-Guillon 2017 Moulin-à- cherry fruits, the wood aging gives it a smooth tex- dense wine, this is concentrated and dark. Black 92 Vent. A rich and tannic wine with a solid, ture as well as a touch of spice. This now-mature fruits and a solid structure give richness and power, dry core, this needs to be aged. Its concentration wine is ready to drink. Vigne Direct. —R.V. with good acidity to balance the structure. The comes also from the ripe black fruits and acidity abv: 13.5% Price: $15 wine is a blend of four different parcels. Drink from that are developing. All the elements give the wine 2020. David Bowler Wine. —R.V. impressive potential. Drink from 2020. Fruit of the Domaine de Colette 2017 Le Mont (Moulin- abv: 13% Price: $22 Vines, Inc. —R.V. 91 à-Vent). The granite soil shows strongly in abv: 14% Price: $23 this terroir-driven wine. Lees aging also gives extra Patrick Tranchand 2017 Roche Grès (Moulin-à- intensity to the concentrated black-cherry fruits. 91 Vent). From one of the top vineyard sites in Domaine des Chers 2017 Vieilles Vignes Acidity and a fresher aftertaste complete the wine, Moulin-à-Vent, this wine is richly structured, firm 92 (Moulin-à-Vent). This single-parcel wine, balancing crunchiness with richness. Drink from with tannins while also juicy with cherry flavors. It aged for seven months before bottling, is still young. 2020. Charles Neal Selections. —R.V. Red fruits and ripe tannins are integrating with the abv: 13.5% Price: $22

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 is young, full of vivacious fruit and needs some time. cherry flavors that will develop. Wait to drink until It needs time to develop its full potential, so drink Drink from 2020. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. 2020. Quintessential Wines. —R.V. from 2020. Quintessential Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $26 abv: 13% Price: $22

Vignobles Bulliat 2017 Moulin-à-Vent. This Domaine Labruyère 2016 Coeur de Terroirs Jean Loron 2017 Au Beau Moulin (Moulin-à- 91 is a solid, structured wine with firm tannins 89 (Moulin-à-Vent). A blend of a selection of 88 Vent). With grapes from a number of vine- as well ripe fruit. Its concentration and minerality grapes from across the estate, this wine is open, rich yards, this wine has structure while pushing the from the granite soil are the secret to the wine’s and ready to drink. Generous and juicy, the wine red-cherry flavors right to the front. It is an attrac- aging potential. Give this rich wine, full of black balances tannins, good acidity and great fruitiness. tive juicy wine with a fresh edge of acidity and great fruits and acidity, until 2020. T. Elenteny Imports. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. fruitiness at the end. Pellegrini Bros. Wines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $29 —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $24 Domaine de la Vigne Romaine 2017 Moulin- Château de la Terrière 2015 Climat Le Moulin 89 à-Vent. This wine from old vines in a six- Yohan Lardy 2017 Les Michelons (Moulin-à- 90 (Moulin-à-Vent). The vineyard for this wine acre vineyard has firm tannins as well as ripe fruit. 88 Vent). Old vines at the top of the Moulin-à- is at the foot of the slope that leads up to the pho- Everything is young and exuberant at this stage, Vent slope give this wine its rich, tannic structure. togenic windmill of Moulin-à-Vent. It is a perfumed with tannins and spice dominating the fruits. Let The fruit is fresh and crisp, with a smoky character wine, full of blackberries and black cherries. Juicy this wine age until 2020. Quintessential Wines. from old-barrel wood aging. Age this wine for a few and rich, the wine is reaching its maturity, so drink —R.V. months and drink from late 2019. Bonhomie Wine from early 2019. Galaxy Wine Company. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $28 Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $29 abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Florent Descombe 2017 Cuvée M (Moulin-à- Domaine de Bel-Air 2017 Les Burdelines 89 Vent). This structured wine is still full of Domaine du Pourpre 2017 Moulin-à-Vent. 90 (Moulin-à-Vent). A dense wine made from young tannins, with a dense, dry core that needs 86 Five generations have run this family estate 50-year-old vines, this is rich and dense. It has to soften. Around that center, the wine offers black that’s planted with old vines. This wine is juicy and a smoky character with some bitterness at this fruits, ripe tannins and plenty of balancing acidity. fruity, with hints of bananas as well as some firm young stage. Both elements will disappear into the Gourmet Food and Wine Distributor. —R.V. tannins. It will soften to give a fruity wine, so wait rich fruit as the wine matures. Drink from 2020. abv: 13% Price: $19 until late 2019. Quintessential Wines. —R.V. Vigneron Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $27 abv: 13% Price: $22 Château de Chénas 2016 Moulin-à-Vent. 88 This tannic wine also has attractive fruit. It Domaine Fond Moiroux 2013 Moulin-à- Domaine des Rosiers 2017 Moulin-à-Vent. is still young, with its rich structure right up front. 86 Vent. This wine tastes mature. Its fruit has 90 For full review see page 14. Behind that is a fresher character, red-cherry fla- changed into secondary flavors with undergrowth abv: 13% Price: $27 vors and a bright aftertaste. Tryon Distributors. and mushrooms coming through the . Drink —R.V. now. Loosen Bros. USA. —R.V. Domaine Pral 2016 Moulin-à-Vent. This abv: 12.5% Price: $22 abv: 13% Price: $25 90 richly concentrated wine comes from a small parcel of 40-year-old vines. Its structure is Domaine Bertrand 2015 Les Petits Bois matched by the ripe black fruits and intense acidity. 88 (Moulin-à-Vent). A touch of wood aging has FLEURIE Like any good wine from this appellation, it needs to lifted this rich wine and added spice and acidity to age further. JP Bourgeois. —R.V. the berry flavors. A single-parcel wine, it is full of Domaine Anita 2017 Les Moriers (Fleurie). abv: 13% Price: $24 fruit and final freshness. Timothy Perry. —R.V. 93 From one of the top vineyards in Fleurie, abv: 13% Price: $26 this wine is elegant, conveying a floral character as Château Bonnet 2016 Charlotte et Pierre- well as an opulent backdrop of dark black fruits. A 89 Yves Perrachon Vieilles Vignes (Moulin-à- Domaine des Maisons Neuves 2017 Les Bois- rich wine with concentration and dense tannins, it Vent). This richly structured wine has firm tan- 88 Combes (Moulin-à-Vent). This rich, opulent needs to age further to become balanced and stylish. nins as well as great swathes of juicy black fruits. wine is full of black fruits, ripe tannins and good Drink from 2020. AP Wine Imports. Cellar Selec- Its richness is balanced by the acidity and the dry acidity. It has plenty of spice and a toughness that tion. —R.V. core that will allow the wine to age. DHI Selections. comes from its youth. The wine needs to soften, so abv: 13% Price: $28 —R.V. drink from mid 2019. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 13% Price: $18 Lucien Lardy 2017 Les Moriers (Fleurie). The 93 vines in this 2.25-acre plot are more than Château des Jacques 2016 Moulin-à-Vent. Domaines Laurent Perrachon & Fils 2017 100 years old, densely planted and producing this 89 A rich and ripe wine that is both perfumed 88 Terres Roses (Moulin-à-Vent). A blend of impressively rich wine. Juicy black fruits and pow- and structured, this shows a good balance between several parcels of vines, this wine is named after erful tannins are still present even after two years. fruit and tannins. Aged partly in wood, the wine the pink granite that forms the subsoil of much of The wine needs to age further and will be impres- has a touch of spice along with the black fruits and the appellation. Its structure and firm tannins indi- sive from 2020. Zancanella Importing Co. —R.V. finishing acidity. Drink from 2020. Kobrand. —R.V. cate the aging ability of this still-young wine. As abv: 12.5% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $29 it matures, the ripe fruits will develop well. Drink from 2020. Pioneer Wine Company. —R.V. Patrick Tranchand 2017 Poncié (Fleurie). Domaine de Roche Noire 2017 Moulin-à-Vent. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 93 While the fruit of this wine is perfumed, the 89 The black volcanic rock of this vineyard is a structure is firm and dry. That gives considerable strong element in its firm, upright texture. Dark and Georges Duboeuf 2017 Flower Label (Moulin- aging potential to this rich wine with its blackberry full of tannins, the fruit is still in the background. 88 à-Vent). This wine is firmly structured and flavors and considerable acidity. The wine will take However there is fresh acidity and hints of the red- still young. Red-cherry flavors partner with the its time, and should be ready from 2020. Fruit of tannins, giving a fruity edge to a solid, dense wine. the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $22

WINEMAG.COM | 31

BUYINGGUIDE

Yohan Lardy 2017 Le Vivier (Fleurie). The Domaine de Leyre-Loup 2015 Réserve Louis Château de Poncié 2016 Le Pré Roi (Fleurie). 93 single vineyard, less than an acre, is planted 91 Leyre-Loup (Fleurie). A rich wine from this 90 Ripe cherry and red-berry flavors burst with 65-year-old vines. The result is this spicy, ripe year, this has concentration from the 45-year- from the glass with this deliciously fruity wine. It structured, dark-hued wine, with tannins still old vines and spice from the wood aging. It is packed has a soft texture and richness cut with acidity. This intact but promising much. Drink this lightly wood- with black fruits. The wine, with its fresh final is a wine to savor from 2019. Maisons and Domaines aged wine from 2020. Bonhomie Wine Imports. fruitiness, will be ready to drink from 2019. Wine Henriot. —R.V. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Universe Corp. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $25 abv: 14% Price: $27 Domaine de Bel-Air 2017 Granits Roses Château du Châtelard 2017 Cuvée les Vieux Domaine de Roche-Guillon 2017 Fleurie. This 90 (Fleurie). This wine is full of fruit and tan- 92 Granits (Fleurie). This wine’s name refers 91 perfumed wine offers both richness and nins. Although still young, it has plenty of freshness to the ancient granite soil found all over Beaujolais. dense tannins. Its acidity and black fruits hold great and fruit potential to go with the ripe, perfumed The wine is all about red berries and firm tannins. promise, with freshness as well as ripeness. It will tannins. Drink the wine from 2020. Vigneron Still young, it has a bright feel, full of fruitiness. be ready from 2020. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. Imports. —R.V. Give the wine time to fill out. Drink from 2020. abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $22 Wineberry America LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25 Domaine du Mont Verrier 2015 Fleurie. Aged Domaine de Grands Fers 2017 Gamay Noir 91 for six months in large barrels, this elegantly 90 1890 (Fleurie). This wine is tight with tan- Domaines Chermette 2017 Les Garants (Fleu- structured wine offers perfumed ripe fruits and rich nins as well as juicy acidity. The young fruits are 92 rie). This oak-aged wine is smoothly tex- tannins. Juicy black fruits and acidity are well bal- still developing through the dense texture and need tured, full of ripe black fruits. Spice as well as the anced by the structure of the wine that is now well more time to balance with the structure. Then this layer of tannins give richness. Black cherries and integrated. Drink now. DB Wine Selection. —R.V. should be an attractive, ripe wine. Drink from late berries add depth to the wine that is likely to age abv: 13% Price: $22 2019. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. well. Drink from 2020. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $21 abv: 13% Price: $27 Domaine Lathuilière Gravallon 2017 Grand Pré 91 (Fleurie). Floral, perfumed and structured, Domaine de Leyre-Loup 2016 Réserve Louis Domaines Chermette 2017 Poncié (Fleurie). this is a wine for aging. It has tannins, concentrated 90 Leyre-Loup (Fleurie). Old vines and barrel 92 All the perfumed character and structure black-plum flavors and acidity. The wine has the aging give this wine a perfumed character. The top to be expected in a wine from this appellation are potential for richness but needs time. Drink from cuvée from this estate, it is rich and ageworthy. Ripe exhibited in this full, dense wine. Its juicy character 2020. Saranty Imports. —R.V. black fruits convey fragrance and spice. The wine is still developing, but it is doing so in partnership abv: 13% Price: $20 needs to age further, so drink from 2020. Wine Uni- with fresh berry flavors. Drink from 2020. Wey- verse Corp. —R.V. gandt-Metzler. —R.V. Jean Loron 2017 Château de Bellevue (Fleu- abv: 13% Price: $24 abv: 13% Price: $26 91 rie). This intense, concentrated young wine demands plenty of aging. Red-berry flavors are Vignobles Bulliat 2017 Fleurie. Showing Lucien Lardy 2016 Les Chênes (Fleurie). there along with a powerful tannic structure. Still 90 the softer side of Fleurie, this wine is deli- 92 Wood aging in old barrels has helped tame firm and dry even though with potential fruitiness, ciously full of red fruits. Its young structure gives the bright fruits and introduce structure. Those the wine should be held until 2020. Cognac One, the wine a core of tannin that supports the ebullient tannins, still firm at this stage, are the passport to LLC. —R.V. fruits. Red cherries and acidity balance well in this wine’s long-term future. With rich fruit, a dry core abv: 13% Price: $27 wine that will be ready to drink from 2019. T. Elen- and acidity, the wine will mature slowly. Drink from teny Imports. —R.V. 2021. Zancanella Importing Co. —R.V. Jean Loron 2017 Château de Fleurie (Fleurie). abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $25 91 This 69-acre estate has four separate parcels, including one in the famed La Madonne vineyard. Clos des Quatre Vents 2017 Fleurie. This Pardon et Fils 2017 Domaine Pardon Cuvée The wine is packed with tannins and with aromatic 89 wine has structure and rich fruits, full of 92 Hugo (Fleurie). Old vines are behind this fruit, richly structured and with a good future. tannins as well as well as blackberry flavors. Still structured wine, giving bold tannins as well as rich Drink this balanced wine from 2020. David Bowler young and with plenty of time ahead of it, this wine black-currant fruits. The wine is concentrated, ripe Wine. —R.V. from a 15-acre parcel within the Darroze estate will and needs to age. Drink this black-hued wine from abv: 13.5% Price: $20 be ready from 2020. Quintessential Wines. —R.V. 2021. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $24 abv: 13% Price: $20 Lucien Lardy 2017 Les Roches (Fleurie). Vines 91 that are nearly 70 years old form the basis Domaine de Grands Fers 2017 Gamay Originel Château de Poncié 2015 Le Pré Roi (Fleurie). of this rich, generous and concentrated wine. Still 89 1890 (Fleurie). Made without added sulfur, 91 This 113-acre estate, now owned by the Hen- young, it shows fleshiness and needs to soften and this ripe wine offers black fruits and soft tannins. riot family of , has produced an intense smooth out. The wine has potential and will be bet- The fruit is pure, juicy and clean, with attractive and rich wine. Its acidity and dense black fruits are ter from 2020. Zancanella Importing Co. —R.V. acidity as well as a fresh aftertaste. Drink the wine impressive and concentrated. The wine is ready to abv: 12.5% Price: $22 now. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. drink, although it will age further, certainly until abv: 13% Price: $23 2024. Maisons and Domaines Henriot. —R.V. Albert Bichot 2017 La Madone (Fleurie). abv: 13.5% Price: $20 90 This wine comes from Fleurie’s most Domaine de Leyre-Loup 2015 Fleurie. While famous vineyard, which descends the hill from the 89 this wine is initially juicy, its structure Domaine de Colette 2017 Fleurie. This struc- La Madone chapel. Rich and concentrated, it has shows later, coming from behind to give tannins and 91 tured wine is full of ripe tannins and juicy structure that balances well with the juicy black weight to the black-fruit flavors. It is now fully bal- acidity. Its dense texture is cut with attractive fruits. However it needs to age further, so wait until anced, rich and fruity. Wine Universe Corp. —R.V. freshness, giving lift to this wine with potential. 2020. Albert Bichot USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20 Drink from 2020. Charles Neal Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $29 abv: 12.5% Price: $22

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 Domaine de Leyre-Loup 2014 Réserve Louis this appellation and will allow the wine to mature wine. It is already ready to drink. Valkyrie Selec- 89 Leyre-Loup (Fleurie). Still with its tannins slowly. Great fruitiness adds to the promise. Drink tions. Best Buy. —R.V. in place, this wine also has fresh, perfumed fruits. from 2020. Ideal Wine and Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $12 The two are coming into balance to reveal a wine abv: 13% Price: $22 packed with berry fruitiness and red-cherry acid- Domaine des Maisons Neuves 2017 Chir- ity. Drink the wine now. Wine Universe Corp. —R.V. Château de Javernand 2017 Indigène (Chir- 87 oubles. A jammy, banana and red-fruit-fla- abv: 13% Price: $24 89 oubles). Zero sulfites and natural yeasts are vored wine, this is soft and fresh. It has a crisp edge hallmarks of this crisp and fruity wine. Its acidity to the fruitiness and only the lightest of tannins. Domaine des Quatre Vents 2017 Fleurie. Old and red-currant flavors are boisterous at this stage Drink the wine now. Saranty Imports. —R.V. 89 vines planted on granite on the Darroze and need to calm down. The wine will be best from abv: 13% Price: $18 estate give this richly structured and dense wine. 2020. Field Blend Selections. —R.V. It has a layers of red-berry fruits, tannins and a abv: 12.5% Price: $28 youthful mineral texture. All these elements will MORGON come together over the next few months, so drink Christophe Savoye 2017 Cuvée Loïc (Chirou- this wine after 2020. Quintessential Wines. —R.V. 89 bles). This is an elegant wine, with acidity Château des Jacques 2016 Côte du Py (Mor- abv: 13% Price: $24 and red fruits already in harmony. An edge of tan- 93 gon). Morgon’s most famous vineyard is on nins gives the wine structure and aging potential. a long, steep slope. It has produced this perfumed, Domaine du Clos des Garands 2015 Les Bertrand’s Wines. —R.V. ripe wine. The tannins are fully integrated into the 89 Garants Vieilles Vignes (Fleurie). This abv: 13% Price: $18 fruit giving richness and leaving plenty of room for smooth wine from a ripe vintage is now mature. acidity. This wine could age further and will be bet- With a perfumed character as well as generous Domaine Méziat-Belouze 2017 Chiroubles. ter from 2021. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V. black fruits, it is open and rounded, with a crisp 89 Fresh berry flavors and acidity give this abv: 14% Price: $43 edge of acidity at the end. Drink now. Old Creek wine a fruity side that contrasts with the tangy, Imports. —R.V. mineral edge and structure. The extra altitude of Domaine de la Bonne Tonne 2017 Grands Cras abv: 13% Price: $22 Chiroubles vineyards shows in the crispness of the 93 (Morgon). The Grillet family’s organically wine. L & L Imports. —R.V. grown wine shows delicious, pure flavors of jammy Domaine du Clos des Garands 2015 Tradition abv: 12.5% Price: $20 blackberries cut with acidity. It comes from old 88 (Fleurie). This rich wine is cut with acidity. vines in one of Morgon’s cru vineyards, giving both It is structured although now ready to drink. Ripe, Château de Javernand 2017 Les Gatilles concentration and a mineral structure. Drink from juicy and tannic, it has layers of spice, licorice and a 88 (Chiroubles). Named appropriately after 2021. Vinea Imports. —R.V. bright aftertaste. Old Creek Imports. —R.V. small lizards that come out in the sun, this wine abv: 14% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $24 conveys a warm, sunny feel. It has acidity but the main thrust of the wine is for ripe berry fruits and a Domaine des Souchons 2016 Côte du Py Georges Duboeuf 2017 Flower Label (Fleurie). touch of tannins. Field Blend Selections. —R.V. 93 (Morgon). The volcanic soil of this impres- 87 This is an attractive, perfumed wine, fresh abv: 12.5% Price: $22 sive vineyard gives powerful wines, like this. It is with red-cherry flavors and acidity. It is softly tex- about tannins as much as fruit, but this will change. tured, light on the tannins although full of young Domaine des Pontheux 2017 Chiroubles. Wood aging has already done much to smooth the fruitiness. Drink from summer 2019. Quintessential 88 Grown on the slopes of the highest of cru up-front structure and the fruit is developing well. Wines. —R.V. appellations, this wine is structured, with tannins But wait until 2021 for the wine to be at its best. abv: 13% Price: $22 balanced by berry fruits. It has the typical cool feel Total Beverage Solution. Cellar Selection. —R.V. of the appellation so the wine’s freshness and acid- abv: 13% Price: $40 La Madone 2017 Clos des Quatre Vents (Fleu- ity need time to fill out. Drink from 2020. Quintes- 87 rie). This softly textured, bright wine is all sential Wines. —R.V. Domaine des Souchons 2016 Grands Cras about juicy, perfumed fruit and acidity. For the abv: 13% Price: $19 93 (Morgon). From one of the top vineyard appellation and the 3.5-acre vineyard of La Madone sites in Morgon, this wine has powerful, concen- it less structured than usual, although the fruitiness Domaine Ruet 2017 La Fontenelle (Chirou- trated fruits and structure. Its dark tannins are is attractive. Drink from summer 2019. Quintessen- 88 bles). Packed with fruit, this wine is both big and dense, matching the blackberry flavors and tial Wines. —R.V. richly structured and fruity. It has a juicy core of acidity. The wine needs to age, so drink from 2020. abv: 13% Price: $23 berry flavors filled out with young tannins that need Total Beverage Solution. —R.V. to soften. Schatzi Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $40 abv: 12.5% Price: $22 CHIROUBLES Domaine Joncy 2016 Morgon. From 70-year- Laurent Gauthier 2017 Chatenay Vieilles 93 old vines, this limited-production wine Domaine Joncy 2016 Chiroubles. This fam- 88 Vignes (Chiroubles). Named after the par- comes from an estate that has been in the hands of 92 ily estate, which has grown grapes since cel of vines that produced the grapes, this wine is the same family since 1619. Rich tannins and black- 1619, is set in the relatively high-altitude village of packed with tannins and crisp red-fruit flavors. Its cherry fruits are lifted and given extra dimension Chiroubles. Perfumed and ripe, this wine has some structure and fruit are already in balance, finishing by the wine’s fresh edge. This bold, ripe wine will firm tannins as well as flavors of mint and spice, all with a crisp aftertaste. Drink from 2020. American repay another year, so drink from 2020. Private balanced by acidity. The wine will develop over the Northwest Distributors Inc. —R.V. Cask Imports. —R.V. next few months, so drink from 2020. Private Cask abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $29 Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $29 Maison Rémy Passot et Fils 2017 Chiroubles. Domaine Lathuilière Gravallon 2017 Les 88 Hillside vineyards facing southwest are the 93 Charmes by Cédric Lathuilière (Morgon). Fabien Collonge 2017 L’Aurore des Côtes source of this structured wine. Ripe tannins paral- Big tannins and firm extraction mark this wine. 90 (Chiroubles). This structured wine has big lel the bright red-berry flavors that shine from the Its structure and dry core are, at this young stage, tannins as well as generous black fruits. Acidity and as important as the fruit. That will change and it a cool edge to the structure show the elevation of will develop into a rich wine that is well balanced

WINEMAG.COM | 33

BUYINGGUIDE between structure and black fruits. Drink from Domaine Chasselay 2017 Corcelette (Mor- Mommessin 2017 Côte du Py (Morgon). For 2021. Vin de Frog. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 92 gon). From a two-acre vineyard, this no- 92 full review see page 9. abv: 13% Price: $18 sulfite has big tannins as well as gen- abv: 14% Price: $25 erous fruits. At this stage, tannins dominate giving a Domaine Lathuilière Gravallon 2016 Vieilles wine with great structure. The fruit will come later Château de Pizay 2017 La Centenaire (Mor- 93 Vignes (Morgon). This wine has power, rich as the wine develops. Wait until 2020. Vintage ’59 91 gon). Produced from old vines, this special tannins and perfumed black-cherry fruits. Its con- Imports. —R.V. cuvée is richly endowed with powerful tannins centration and dark structure are impressive and abv: 13% Price: $32 as well as dense fruit. It is still too young with its sure to age well. The density of wine goes with the broad cherry flavors and acidity. It will develop into ripe fruit cut with acidity. Drink this ageworthy Domaine de Bel-Air 2017 Les Charmes (Mor- a well-constructed wine with concentration and wine from 2021. Saranty Imports. —R.V. 92 gon). The schist soil of the vineyard has potential. Drink from 2021, but the wine will age abv: 13% Price: $30 given this wine intense minerality and great struc- further. David Milligan Selections. —R.V. ture. Behind this firm character, black fruits and abv: 13% Price: $25 Jean-Michel Dupré 2017 Grands Cras (Mor- acidity promise a wine that will be rich while also 93 gon). The Grand Cras is one of the recog- solid and structured. Drink from 2021. Vigneron Château des Jacques 2016 Morgon. This flag- nized vineyard areas of Morgon, producing, as here, Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 91 ship estate, owned by Beaune negociant concentrated wines. This is dense, firm and still abv: 13% Price: $22 Louis Jadot, has produced a wine with great inten- young, with potential from the rich black fruits. A sity and structure. Partly wood aged, the blend of wine to age, it will be best from 2020. Elliott Bay Domaine de Leyre-Loup 2016 Réserve Louis three vineyards is rich although with a strong streak Distributing Co. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 92 Leyre-Loup (Morgon). Fruit from vines more of freshness and acidity. That, along with the tan- abv: 13% Price: $22 than 50 years old have given this wine richness and nins, suggests it could age. It will be better from late density. Spice from wood aging and the acidity add 2019. Kobrand. —R.V. Lucien Lardy 2017 Côte du Py (Morgon). a lift of freshness and extra complexity. This will be abv: 91% Price: $29 93 Black-cherry aromas and flavors are typical a fine wine as it ages. Drink from 2020. Wine Uni- of this famous vineyard. They sing from this wine verse Corp. —R.V. Domaine Lathuilière Gravallon 2017 Corcelette where they are balanced with serious tannins and abv: 14% Price: $26 91 (Morgon). Packed with red fruit, this rich acidity. The wine needs time and should not be wine is firmly structured. The dry core gives drunk before 2021. Zancanella Importing Co. Cellar Domaine Guenael Jambon 2017 Côte de Py impressive richness to the tannins and to the pure Selection. —R.V. 92 Réserve (Morgon). Partly oak aged, this wine fruit flavors. Its juicy character is beginning to come abv: 12.5% Price: $25 has great richness and dense tannins. Coming from through, suggesting good potential. Drink this wine one of the top sites in Morgon, it benefits from the from 2021. Saranty Imports. —R.V. Baptiste et Laurent 2017 Le Meilleur des 2 blue granite that brings out the minerality of the abv: 13% Price: $20 92 Mondes (Morgon). Ripe and powerful, this wine. Solid and concentrated, it will age well. Drink wine has weight and concentration. Its tannins are from 2021. Jeffrey Alpert Selection. —R.V. Domaine Pral 2017 Les Charmes (Morgon). A an important element at this young stage where the abv: 13.5% Price: $30 91 small-production wine from one of the top fruit is also right up front. Like all good wines from vineyard sites in Morgon, this is structured and this appellation, the wine needs to age and fill out Flache Sornay 2016 Morgon. Still young firm, with a strong tannic element over the rich with secondary flavors. Drink from 2020. Tri-Vin 92 although with fruit and tannins that have berry fruits. All this richness balances with a strong Imports. —R.V. come into balance, this is a full, partially oak-aged line of acidity. Age this wine for some time longer abv: 12% Price: $22 wine. The tannins are still there and this concen- and don’t drink before 2020. JP Bourgeois. —R.V. trated wine needs to age further. Drink from 2020. abv: 13% Price: $24 Colin Bourisset 2017 Domaine de la Garodière Old Creek Imports. —R.V. 92 (Morgon). Old vines are the backbone of this abv: 13% Price: $22 Domaine Ruet 2017 Grands Cras (Morgon). ripe, concentrated wine. They march with the still 91 Schist and granite rocks are behind this big, young tannins to give a powerful wine with density Jean Loron 2017 Château de Bellevue Les mineral and structured wine. Its tannins and black and richness. It is still structured and likely to age 92 Charmes (Morgon). From vines close to the fruits are young and demanding aging. The wine has well. Drink from 2021. Vigne Direct. —R.V. 19th-century chateau of Bellevue, this wine comes a juicy aftertaste, with black-currant flavors. Drink abv: 13% Price: $15 from one of the top sectors of Morgon. Still young, from 2020. Schatzi Wines. —R.V. but properly structured and dense, the wine has abv: 12.5% Price: $22 Colin Bourisset 2017 Henri et Colin Bourisset considerable potential. Aging in wood has added 92 Les Grands Cras (Morgon). From one of the spice and rich tannins while leaving blackberry Flache Sornay 2017 Morgon. Corinne and specified cru vineyards of Morgon, this firm wine fruit right in place. Drink this wine from 2021. 91 Vincent Flache used partial oak aging for has all the structure of the appellation and also the Cognac One, LLC. —R.V. this rich, structured and fruity wine. It is certainly rich fruit. It is powerful and will develop well as it abv: 13% Price: $28 young, bold with red-berry flavors and generous matures. Don’t even touch this wine until 2021. tannins that need to soften. Drink from 2021. Old Vigne Direct. —R.V. Jean-Michel Dupré 2017 1935 Vieilles Vignes Creek Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $16 92 (Morgon). Vines that are more than 80 abv: 13% Price: $22 years old are rare even in Beaujolais, which has Domaine Anita 2017 Château-Gaillard (Mor- many longstanding vineyards. This wine shows firm Laurent Gauthier 2016 Vieilles Vignes Côte du 92 gon). This single-vineyard wine comes from concentration and ripe tannins that are balanced 91 Py (Morgon). Wood aging has given spice to an area that produces small berries and great fruit by fresh acidity and black-currant flavors. Age the this rich, structured wine. Tannins and generous concentration. Rich in both tannins and bold struc- wine further and drink from 2020. Elliott Bay Dis- black fruits show through the still-young structure. ture, the wine is also packed with generous fruits. It tributing Co. —R.V. This powerful wine, from one of the top vineyards in needs to age and will be best from 2020. AP Wine abv: 13% Price: $22 Morgon, will age well. Drink from 2020. American Imports. —R.V. Northwest Distributors Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $25

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 Vignobles Bulliat 2017 Nature (Morgon). Pro- Florent Descombe 2017 Cuvée M Côte du backbone of this fruity, organically grown wine that 91 duced from organically grown grapes and 90 Py (Morgon). From the famous Côte du Py offers red cherry and spice from wood aging. The bottled without additional sulfur, this wine is part vineyard, this wine has considerable structure. Its wine is ripe, packed with fruitiness and smoky tan- of a trend in Beaujolais. Its tannic structure and black fruits and rich tannins are typical of this gran- nins. Drink from 2020. Vinea Imports. —R.V. pure red-cherry flavors are already impressive, giv- ite terroir. The wine also has juicy red fruits that are abv: 14% Price: $22 ing the wine aging potential and richness. Enjoy this developing and will come to dominate from 2019. wine from 2020. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. Rodinia LLC. —R.V. Domaine du Gry-Sablon 2017 Douby (Mor- abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $28 89 gon). This single-vineyard wine is firm with the tannins typical of this appellation. It has good Albert Bichot 2017 Les Charmes (Morgon). Jean-Claude Debeaune 2017 Belles Grives structure and concentration, with supporting layers 90 This Beaune negociant has produced a 90 (Morgon). Matured in stainless steel tanks of blackberry fruits. The wine finishes with fresher richly structured wine from one of Morgon’s best only, this wine is perfumed and fresh, with attrac- acidity. Chemin Des Vins. —R.V. vineyards. It is ripe, fleshy with black-cherry fruits tive acidity and plenty of red fruits. It has a struc- abv: 12.5% Price: $25 and the firm texture that will allow this rich wine ture and a dry core alongside a fresh, crisp after- to age. Drink from 2020. Albert Bichot USA. —R.V. taste. Drink this wine from 2020. Deutsch Family Domaine Mont Chavy 2017 Morgon. This abv: 13% Price: $20 Wine and Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 89 fourth-generation-run estate has produced abv: 13% Price: $16 a rich, tannic wine. At this stage black fruits and Château de Pizay 2016 Les Sybarites (Mor- a firm structure demand aging. The wine is likely 90 gon). Powered by its tannins, this struc- Jean-Claude Debeaune 2017 Domaine des to balance well over the next year and be ready to tured wine is still developing. It has ripe fruit as well 90 Versauds (Morgon). The schist soil of this drink from 2020. Quintessential Wines. —R.V. as spice from wood aging. The richness is impres- estate has left its mark on this wine in its mineral abv: 13% Price: $24 sive and will give a generous wine from 2020. David texture. The wine is tight and firmly structured, Milligan Selections. —R.V. with bold tannins that need to soften. Drink from Maison Rémy Passot et Fils 2017 Morgon. A abv: 13% Price: $22 2020. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —R.V. 89 crisp style of Morgon with tannins and a abv: 13% Price: $18 dense texture, this wine is ripe and powerful. The Domaine de Colette 2017 Charme (Morgon). cherry flavors have considerable acidity and need to 90 Aged in neutral cement tanks, this wine is Jean-Ernest Descombes 2017 Côte du Py soften. Valkyrie Selections. —R.V. all about rich black fruits and tannins. It is ripe and 90 (Morgon). For full review see page 14. abv: 13% Price: $20 dense, with layers of spice, black cherries and acid- abv: 13% Price: $28 ity. The wine will develop much further, so drink Domaine Chavy les Charmes 2017 Morgon. from 2021. Charles Neal Selections. —R.V. Pardon et Fils 2017 Côte du Py (Morgon). 88 This wine has structure, with tannins as abv: 13.5% Price: $22 90 The granite soil of this famous vineyard well as concentrated fruits. A backdrop of juicy gives this wine its dense minerality and firm tan- black-cherry flavors is likely to come to the front Domaine de Colonat 2017 Naturabilis Ances- nins. Paired with this solid element, the wine offers of the wine and add texture and acidity. Republic 90 trale (Morgon). Aged in wood and bottled rich berry flavors and a fresher acidity. It should National Distributing Co. —R.V. without sulfites, this wine is rich with tannins and age well and will not be ready before 2021. Saranty abv: 13% Price: $25 red-berry flavors. Acidity and spice add to the fruit- Imports. —R.V. iness of this attractive, ripe wine. Drink from 2020. abv: 13% Price: $18 Domaine de Colonat 2017 Les Charmes Tra- Latitude Wines, Inc. —R.V. 88 dition (Morgon). Soft and ripely fruity, this abv: 12.5% Price: $35 Vignobles Bulliat 2017 Cuvée du Colombier rich wine has juicy red fruits and plenty of acidity. 90 (Morgon). Named after the dovecote in the Red-berry flavors and good acidity give the wine an Domaine de la Bonne Tonne 2015 Côte du family’s vineyards, this wine has structure and the already delicious, attractive character. Drink the 90 Py (Morgon). From a fine Beaujolais vin- aging ability typical of this appellation. Tannins and wine from 2019. Latitude Wines, Inc. —R.V. tage, this organically grown wine is perfumed and dark fruits come together in a rich wine with juicy abv: 13% Price: $28 still structured with its dark tannins. The density acidity and layers of black-cherry flavors. T. Elen- and richness are still developing, giving the wine its teny Imports. —R.V. Domaine Guenael Jambon 2017 Côte de Py concentrated potential. Vinea Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20 88 Nature (Morgon). Bottled without sulfites, abv: 14% Price: $30 this juicy wine with hints of overripe cherries is Domaine de Colonat 2017 Les Charmes (Mor- also structured. The clean, rich red-cherry and red- Domaine Saint-Cyr 2017 Les Charmes (Mor- 89 gon). Partly aged in wood, this ripe wine is berry flavors are cut with intense acidity. Drink the 90 gon). From a two-acre parcel in one of the smoothly textured and rich. With tannins as well as wine from 2021. Jeffrey Alpert Selection. —R.V. Morgon cru vineyards, this young wine still shows a red fruits and spice, the wine is already balanced abv: 13.5% Price: $30 touch of yeastiness. However it also has ripe berry although its bright fruitiness need to calm down a fruits and touches of wood aging that add pepper little. Drink now. Latitude Wines, Inc. —R.V. Domaine Poulard 2016 Morgon. This ripe and some spice. The wine needs to age, so drink abv: 13% Price: $28 88 wine has concentration and rich tannins. from 2020. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. Juicy fruits and a dense structure add to the power abv: 13% Price: $27 Domaine de Javernière 2017 Côte du Py (Mor- of this solid wine. Drink now. —R.V. 89 gon). Structured, full of dark tannins and abv: 14% Price: $NA Domaines Laurent Perrachon & Fils 2017 with a strong Py mineral streak, this wine from nine 90 Corcelette (Morgon). Firm and structured, acres of old vines is still young and needs time. It Jean-Claude Debeaune 2017 Château de la this wine is rich in tannins while also having plenty has weight along with fresh red-cherry flavors that 88 Chaponne (Morgon). Still firm with tan- of fresh, juicy fruit. The wine’s dry core is dominant contrast with the structure. Let it age and drink nins and with an austere edge, this wine is dry and at this stage, but just wait until that fruit begins to from 2020. Quintessential Wines. —R.V. young. Its fruit is still to come, with just a hint of shine. The dense texture and the wine’s ripeness abv: 13% Price: $25 blackberries in the background. Drink from 2020. will let it age for several years. Drink from 2021. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —R.V. Pioneer Wine Company. —R.V. Domaine de la Bonne Tonne 2017 Les abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $22 89 Charmes (Morgon). Young vines are the

WINEMAG.COM | 35

BUYINGGUIDE

L. Tramier & Fils 2017 Collection (Morgon). signature of the terroir. Firm and solid, it has weight soften into the generous black fruits as it ages. Ber- 88 A young wine replete with tannins, this is as well as black fruits, rich tannins supporting the trand’s Wines. —R.V. also fruity while well structured. It shows power as juicy acidity and fruitiness. Latitude Wines, Inc. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 well as concentration, with a generous red-cherry —R.V. aftertaste. Wine Universe Corp. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20 Domaine Ruet 2017 Les Bois (Régnié). This abv: 13% Price: $19 86 wine has a firm edge behind the red-cherry Domaine de Colette 2017 Vieilles Vignes and banana flavors. It has a fresh feel, with a light Laurent Gauthier 2017 Grands Cras (Mor- 89 (Régnié). A long of the grapes touch and an attractive, perfumed aftertaste. Drink 88 gon). This wine has a tight character, with before fermentation has given this wine a solid now. Schatzi Wines. —R.V. considerable acidity and ripe, perfumed red fruits. structure and intensity. Its richness comes both abv: 12.5% Price: $19 Still packed with tannins it has excellent potential. from the ripe red fruits and the tannins. Acid- Drink from 2020. American Northwest Distributors ity promises plenty of freshness as the wine ages. Inc. —R.V. Charles Neal Selections. —R.V. CÔTE DE BROUILLY abv: 12.5% Price: $22 abv: 13% Price: $18 Domaine de la Voûte des Crozes 2017 Côte Louis Tête 2016 Morgon. This ripe, full wine Pardon et Fils 2017 Domaine Pardon Cuvée 93 de Brouilly. This balanced, structured wine 88 has tannins and rich berry flavors. Dense 89 Tim (Régnié). From soil that has some sand comes from the slopes of Mont Brouilly. Its tan- texture and concentration partner with acidity and as well as granite, this wine has both structure and nins match the ripeness of the black-cherry flavors a fresher aftertaste. Vinadeis Americas USA. —R.V. ripe black fruits. Tannins are prominent at this as well as the crisp acidity. A streak of minerality abv: 13% Price: $18 early stage and need to soften into the fruitiness of reflects the granite terroir. Drink from 2020. Kermit this ripe wine. Drink from 2020. Saranty Imports. Lynch Wine Merchant. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Domaine de Colonat 2017 Naturabilis Antique —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25 87 (Morgon). Bottled without sulfites, this wine abv: 13% Price: $16 was aged in clay amphoras. It is juicy, intense and Robert Perroud 2017 Foudre No. 5 (Côte de tight with acidity that underlines the crisp red Château de Pizay 2017 Régnié. Typical of the 92 Brouilly). The west-facing slope of Mont fruits. The wine needs time, so drink from 2020. 88 appellation, this wine has intense layers Brouilly provides the grapes for this dense wine. Latitude Wines, Inc. —R.V. of acidity at this young age. These need to soften 55-year-old vines bring concentration and rich- abv: 12.5% Price: $40 allowing the red-cherry flavors and firm edge of ness along with a juicy black-currant character. A tannin to develop. Drink this wine from late 2019. mineral edge adds to the structure of this agewor- Domaine de Javernière 2017 Morgon. Plenty David Milligan Selections. —R.V. thy wine. Drink from 2020. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. 87 of juicy fruit in this structured single-estate abv: 13% Price: $14 —R.V. wine balances with the tannins. The intense acid- abv: 92% Price: $22 needs time to soften. Drink from 2020. Quintessen- Domaine Joncy 2016 Régnié. This perfumed tial Wines. —R.V. 88 wine is full of black fruits, with a firm core Robert Perroud 2016 La Fournaise du Pérou abv: 13% Price: $24 of tannins that will allow it to age. Its pure fruit fla- 92 (Côte de Brouilly). Grown in the Le Château vors are enhanced by the structure, giving a tense single vineyard, this wine is structured and firm, Georges Duboeuf 2017 Flower Label (Mor- character that will calm down. Drink from late with dense tannins and bold black fruits. It also has 87 gon). This full, ripe wine has layers of tan- 2019. Private Cask Imports. —R.V. juicy acidity and black-currant fruitiness that are nins as well as fresh red-cherry flavors. Coming abv: 13% Price: $29 showing well against the structure. Drink this wine from this appellation, it has a structure that needs from 2019. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. to soften before drinking. Wait until late 2019. Domaine les Capréoles 2017 Chamodère abv: 13.5% Price: $28 Quintessential Wines. —R.V. 88 (Régnié). This wine is initially austere, with abv: 13% Price: $22 more acidity than fruit. Red-berry flavors reveal Château de la Chaize 2017 Brûlhier (Côte de themselves slowly through the tannins and the 91 Brouilly). This vineyard lies on the steep Domaine Ruet 2017 Douby (Morgon). This touch of spice from wood aging. The wine should southern slope of Mont Brouilly, which gives the 85 wine is on the lean side, with tannins rather be ready to drink from 2020. Vineyard Road. —R.V. vines plenty of sun, hence its name “scorching than fruit up front. It has acidity and a tight texture, abv: 13.5% Price: $88 place.” The wine certainly is warm, with rich tan- missing out on weight and fruit. Schatzi Wines. nins and intense, juicy red-cherry fruits. Its struc- —R.V. Jean-Michel Dupré 2017 Haute Ronze Vie- ture and concentration will allow the wine to age, abv: 12.5% Price: $28 88 illes Vignes (Régnié). This wine is crisp and so drink from 2020. Taub Family Selections. —R.V. fruity, with fresh acidity and a touch of tannins. abv: 12.5% Price: $35 Still young, it needs time to calm down. It will turn RÉGNIÉ into a bright wine, ready to drink from mid-2019. Claire & Fabien Chasselay 2017 L’Héronde Elliott Bay Distributing Co. —R.V. 91 (Côte de Brouilly). This brother-and-sister Domaine les Capréoles 2017 Sous la Croix abv: 12.5% Price: $18 team has produced a rich, complex wine, packing 91 (Régnié). Named after the parcel of vines tannins and ripe berry fruits into an already deli- from which it comes, this dense, concentrated wine Château de la Terrière 2017 Vin Sauvage à Poil cious package. The wine has a juicy blackberry packs tannins, acidity and black fruit. Wood aging 87 (Régnié). This perfumed, fruity wine has character, structured while never losing sight of the has given this wine a ripe, smooth texture that been bottled with no added sulfur. Its red fruits and fruitiness. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. balances well with the tannins. Drink from 2020. acidity are right up front, backed by enough dry tan- abv: 13.5% Price: $32 Vineyard Road. —R.V. nins to give the wine structure and a chance to age. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Massanois Imports. —R.V. Domaine Chasselay 2017 Chardignon (Côte de abv: 12.5% Price: $15 91 Brouilly). This juicy, perfumed wine also has Domaine de Colonat 2017 Vieilles Vignes rich tannins, spice from wood aging and great acid- 90 (Régnié). The old vines that gave this wine Christophe Savoye 2017 Cuvée Ma Confidence ity. It is a ripe wine, generous with black fruits and endow it with great structure and concentration, 87 (Régnié). This wine from a six-generation what the seventh generation of Collognes call the estate is ripe, juicy and fresh. The bright acidity will

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 the structured potential to age. Vintage ’59 Imports. a ripe perfume that adds complexity. Drink from Robert Perroud 2017 L’Enfer des Balloquets —R.V. 2020. Vinotas Selections. —R.V. 91 (Brouilly). The Balloquets slope is so steep it abv: 13.5% Price: $32 abv: 13.5% Price: $22 is regarded as hell (enfer) to work. But it produces good wine, like this rich, lightly tannic offering. Domaine Joncy 2016 Côte de Brouilly. This Domaine Baron de l’Ecluse 2017 L’Ecluse With the structure and acidity in place, and with 91 rich wine is full of dark fruits, rich tannins 87 (Côte de Brouilly). Juicy fruit and firm tan- some wood aging flavors, the wine is smoothly tex- and a juicy aftertaste. Its tannins and concentration nins give this wine ripeness and structure. The red- tured, juicy and ready to drink. Fruit of the Vines, will definitely allow this wine that is both fruity and berry flavors are still young and ebullient and need Inc. —R.V. structured to age. Drink from 2019. Private Cask to calm down along with the dry core of the wine. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Imports. —R.V. Drink from late 2019. Vinotas Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $29 abv: 13% Price: $19 Château de la Chaize 2017 La Chaize 90 (Brouilly). This wine comes from a steep Domaine Baron de l’Ecluse 2017 Les Garances L. Tramier & Fils 2015 Collection (Côte de hillside vineyard with a subsoil of pink granite. 90 (Côte de Brouilly). Attractively perfumed, 87 Brouilly). From vines on the slopes of Mont That shows in the minerality and texture of this this wine is also richly structured. It is young, with Brouilly, this wine has some texture while at three wine that has firm tannins for the appellation. It a good future ahead of it. Rich black-cherry flavors years old it is ready to drink. Juicy cherry flavors also offers juicy red fruits and acidity that give it are lifted by acidity and firmly structured with dark predominate, tempered by acidity and a touch of great freshness. Drink in late 2019. Taub Family tannins. It is worth waiting for and will be best tannin. Drink now. Wine Universe Corp. —R.V. Selections. —R.V. drunk from 2020. Vinotas Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $19 abv: NA Price: $35 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Château de Pierreux 2017 Réserve du Châ- Domaine des Maisons Neuves 2017 L’Ecluse BROUILLY 90 teau (Brouilly). This château with 13th-cen- 90 (Côte de Brouilly). Ripe red fruits and soft tury origins is a magnificent estate now belonging tannins characterize this rich wine. With berry fla- Château de Pierreux 2016 Grande Réserve to the Boisset family. The wine’s ripe cherry flavors vors, intense acidity and developing richness, it will 92 (Brouilly). For full review see page 8. and density are matched by the generous tannins turn into a full, generous wine. Drink from 2019. abv: 14% Price: $29 that lie behind the fruit. It is already smoothly tex- Saranty Imports. —R.V. tured and ready to drink. Boisset Collection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18 Domaine de Briante 2015 Baronne (Brouilly). abv: 14% Price: $20 92 From a parcel of old vines, this wine is par- Domaine de Briante 2014 Côte de Brouilly. ticularly rich and concentrated. It is full of tannins Domaine Chasselay 2017 Les Balloquets 89 From vines on the north-facing slope of as well as black fruits with a rich texture. Firm, with 90 (Brouilly). A smoothly textured, perfumed Mont Brouilly, this wine has plenty of rich cherry hints of wood and spice, boosted by the firm tan- wine, this is packed with black-cherry fruits. Rich- flavors as well as the fresher acidity typical of the nins, this is a wine to age. Drink from 2020. —R.V. ness is balanced by the tannins that are still pres- vintage. Deliciously fruity it is ready to drink. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $92 ent, suggesting a wine with potential that will be abv: 12.5% Price: $20 ready from 2020. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. Château de la Chaize 2016 Les Amants Mag- abv: 12.5% Price: $32 Domaine du Riaz 2017 Côte de Brouilly. The 91 nifiques (Brouilly). This smoothly textured 89 volcanic soil of Mont Brouilly has given a wine is full of ripe fruit, with a perfumed texture. Domaine de Briante 2016 Brouilly. This mineral edge to this structured wine from a seven- A light touch of fruitiness balances with the smoky 90 ripe wine is full of black fruits and gener- acre vineyard. Juicy berry flavors are still develop- hints of wood and spice. The wine is named after ous, integrated tannins. It is rich, solid with warm ing alongside the dry edge of tannins. It will become the parcel of vines, literally the “magnificent lov- blackberry fruits and crisp with acidity. The wine is a spicy, fresh wine from 2020. Quintessential ers.” Drink now. Taub Family Selections. —R.V. ready, so it can be enjoyed for its fruitiness now, but Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $35 it will also age and can be drunk until 2023. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $22 Domaine de Briante 2015 Brouilly. Touched Domaine Ruet 2016 Côte de Brouilly. Run 91 by wood, and with plenty of spice as well as Domaine des Maisons Neuves 2017 Sélection 89 by Katy and David Duthel, this estate’s black-cherry flavors, this is a rich wine. Coming 90 Vieilles Vignes (Brouilly). This solid, rich 60-year-old vines have produced this ripe but from this fine vintage, it has density and weight as wine offers firm tannins as well as generous berry structured wine. It has good density, with a firm well as layers of attractive, juicy fruit. Drink this and black-cherry fruits. A touch of spice and lay- backdrop of tannins and acidity to balance the ripe wine now. —R.V. ers of acidity support the ripe fruitiness. Drink now. berry fruits. Drink now. Schatzi Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $22 abv: 13% Price: $18 Domaine Richard Rottiers 2017 Brouilly. A Emmanuel Fellot 2017 Les Cailloux (Côte de 91 2.5-acre parcel has produced a ripe, gener- Domaine les Capréoles 2017 L’Hydrophobe 89 Brouilly). From grapes planted on volcanic ously textured and wood-aged wine. The spice and 90 (Brouilly). A two-acre parcel forms the soil, this wine has intense minerality as well as warm tannins are balanced by juicy black-currant basis of this well-structured wine. Both fresh and dense tannins. It also has plenty of blackberry fruit flavors to give a wine that will age for a few more rich, it has perfumed tannins as well as ripe black that needs to develop further before the wine is months. Drink from late 2019. Opici Wines. —R.V. fruits and acidity. Drink from 2020. Vineyard Road. ready to enjoy. Drink from 2020. American North- abv: 13% Price: $25 —R.V. west Distributors Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $23 abv: 12.5% Price: $22 Les Frères Perroud 2017 Amethyste (Brouilly). 91 Named after the amethyst crystal that lies as Domaine Romain Jambon 2016 Les Eronnes Domaine Baron de l’Ecluse 2017 Vieilles a layer in the soil of the vineyard, this is a tightly 90 (Brouilly). An impressively structured wine 88 Vignes (Côte de Brouilly). The vines in structured wine. Rich tannins and black fruits are for this appellation, this is rich and dense. Black question are 70-years-old, giving this wine its ripe brought into relief by the young, tight acidity. Age at fruits and perfumed acidity are supported by a firm concentration. It has plenty of structure as well as least until the end of 2019. Authentique Vin. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

WINEMAG.COM | 37

BUYINGGUIDE backbone that will allow the wine to age. Drink from future. Drink from late 2019. Weygandt-Metzler. ity to keep everything fresh. Drink from mid-2019. 2020. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —R.V. —R.V. Potomac Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 12.5% Price: $18

Domaine Romain Jambon 2016 Les Vieux Robert Perroud 2016 Romain en Saburin Domaine Ruet 2017 Voujon (Brouilly). This 90 Ceps (Brouilly). Produced from old vines, 89 (Brouilly). Named after the winemaker’s 88 comes from the home vineyard of Katy and this wine is dense and well structured. Tannins father, Romain, this wine grown in the Sabu- David Duthel. It is a structured wine with firm tan- march with the black fruits and dense dry core to rin vineyard is packed with juiciness and acidity. nins that will take time to open. Blackberry and red- give richness and fullness. Drink this wine from late Smooth tannins integrate into the fruitiness of the cherry flavors will come forward as the wine devel- 2019. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —R.V. wine that has been softened by 12 months in old- ops. Drink now. Schatzi Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $32 wood barrels. Drink now. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. abv: 12.5% Price: $22 —R.V. Les Frères Perroud 2017 Vieilles Vignes abv: 12.5% Price: $30 Domaine Ruet 2016 Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 90 Gamay (Brouilly). Delicious and perfumed, 88 (Brouilly). This wine is aromatic with ripe this wine offers touches of toast as well as ripe tan- Château de la Chaize 2017 Rien de Trop cherry fruits and gentle acidity. Packed with fruit, nins. It shows intense fruitiness, with bold black 88 (Brouilly). A perfumed wine with generous it’s attractive and juicy, with a light texture of gen- fruits and a velvet texture. Drink now. Authentique tannins as well as ripe berry flavors, this is bursting erous tannins. Drink now. Schatzi Wines. —R.V. Vin. —R.V. with young fruitiness. It needs some time to calm abv: 12.5% Price: $21 abv: 12.5% Price: $22 down and relax, so wait until late 2019. Taub Family Selections. —R.V. Jean-Claude Debeaune 2017 Château de la Agnès Pegaz 2017 Plaisirs de Pégase abv: 13% Price: $23 88 Perrière (Brouilly). Granite subsoil gives a 89 (Brouilly). Lightly structured, this wine firm edge and minerality to this wine. Its blackberry has ripe fruit that is also fresh and crisp. With the Château de la Chaize 2016 Rien de Trop fruits are still developing, balancing with the tan- tannins and acidity, the wine has the ability to age, 88 (Brouilly). Aged in large wooden casks, this nins and acidity. It should be ready to drink from introducing extra richness as it does so. Drink from wine has a smooth texture as well as juicy red fruits. late 2019. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —R.V. late 2019. Vinotas Selections. —R.V. The structure is balanced by the intense fruits and abv: 13% Price: $16 abv: 13% Price: $18 good acidity. Drink this wine now. Taub Family Selections. —R.V. Jean-Claude Debeaune 2017 Domaine des Baptiste et Laurent 2017 Le Meilleur des 2 abv: 12.5% Price: $21 88 Nazins (Brouilly). This wine is lightly 89 Mondes (Brouilly). The result of a collabo- structured, with plenty of juicy acidity as well as ration between a grower and a negociant, this wine Château de la Terrière 2017 Brouilly. This red-cherry flavors. Coming from a single estate, is softly textured and has rich black fruits. Generous 88 fortified castle, one of the oldest in the the wine is full, generous and ripe. Drink from late tannins are fully integrated into the berry flavors. region, is situated just north of the Brouilly vine- 2019. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —R.V. The wine is ready to drink. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. yards. This wine, rich in fruit and light in tannins, abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 12% Price: $22 is well balanced, ripe and generous. Layers of black fruits are gently cut by acidity and a structure that Florent Descombe 2017 Cuvée B (Brouilly). Domaine Bertrand 2017 Vuril (Brouilly). is just right. Drink now. Massanois Imports. —R.V. 87 This rich wine is lightly structured and full 89 Structured, spicy and with layers of rich abv: 13% Price: $14 of black currant and plum flavors. Juicy, fruity and fruits, this is a wine has tannins and concentration. with an edge of tannins to allow it to age, the wine is The black fruits are cut with acidity and a dry edge Domaine de Bel-Air 2017 Briante (Brouilly). worth keeping a few months. Drink from mid-2019. that will soften over the next few months. Drink 88 Ripe red fruits dominate this broad wine. Rodinia LLC. —R.V. now. Timothy Perry. —R.V. Rose-petal aromas are followed through with per- abv: 12.5% Price: $26 abv: 13% Price: $25 fumed tannins that back up that fruit. Aged for eight months before bottling, the wine should be Château de Pizay 2017 Château de Saint Domaine Bertrand 2016 Pisse-Vieille ready from late 2019. Vigneron Imports. —R.V. 86 Lager (Brouilly). This 16th-century estate 89 (Brouilly). This ripe, soft and jammy wine is abv: 13% Price: $21 close to Mont Brouilly has produced an open, fruity immediately enjoyable. It has generous berry fruits, wine with attractive acidity. Red-berry flavors are black plums and spice from the wood aging. Rich- Domaine de Briante 2014 Brouilly. Light and right up front, making a wine that is ready to drink. ness and a warm feel are lifted at the end by acidity. 88 fruity, this wine is crisp and fresh with red- David Milligan Selections. —R.V. Drink the wine now. Timothy Perry. —R.V. cherry flavors. It has bright acidity and an edge of abv: 13% Price: $19 abv: 13% Price: $27 tannins. Its bright, refreshing fruits are very ready to drink. —R.V. Georges Duboeuf 2017 Flower Label Domaine Nicolas Boudeau 2017 La Grume abv: 12.5% Price: $22 86 (Brouilly). This lightly perfumed, fresh and 89 Grain d’Expression (Brouilly). Seventy-year- fruity wine has some fine, gentle tannins as well as old vines add concentration to this rich wine. Full of Domaine de Lafayette 2017 Brouilly. Fresh black-cherry flavors and acidity. Bright and exu- berry fruits and ripe tannins, the wine has excellent 88 red fruits and soft tannins give this wine an berant at this stage, it could benefit from calming potential. It is already delicious in its young fruiti- easy, attractive character. There is some backbone down. Drink from late 2019. Quintessential Wines. ness, but let it soften further and drink from late to balance the ripe berry flavors and acidity. Drink —R.V. 2019. New France Wine Co. —R.V. now. Quintessential Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Louis Tête 2017 Brouilly. Firm and tightly Domaines Chermette 2017 Pierreux Domaine Nicolas Boudeau 2017 La Grume 85 structured, this wine shows tannins as 89 (Brouilly). Sixty-year-old vines provide an 88 Grain de Sable (Brouilly). Fruity and juicy much as fruit. The dry core is very obvious with impressive legacy, giving this wine richness and a but with layers of firm tannins to give structure, its dark character while the fruitiness seems to be juicy black-fruit character. It has tannins, not over- this wine shows promise but also needs some aging. missing. Vinadeis Americas USA. —R.V. powering but enough to power the wine to a rich Its rich fruitiness is right up front, packing in acid- abv: 13% Price: $18

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 The bright aftertaste lifts the ripe fruit and soft -tex Château du Châtelard 2017 Cuvée les Vieilles BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES ture. Drink now. Petit Pois. —R.V. 87 Vignes (Beaujolais-Villages). A ripe, per- abv: 13% Price: $15 fumed wine with black fruits and generous tan- Domaine Richard Rottiers 2017 La Sambin- nins, this is rich and juicy. It has structure as well 90 erie (Beaujolais-Villages). For a Beaujolais- Domaine Bergeron 2016 Beaujolais-Villages. as layers of delicious fruits that give the wine den- Villages, this is an impressively structured wine. It 88 Ready to drink, this rich wine is perfumed. sity while keeping freshness at the end. Drink now. has tannins as well as enticing red-berry fruits that Black-cherry and berry flavors blend with the soft Wineberry America LLC. —R.V. are still young. Fresh with acidity and still with a texture and acidity. Ripe and fruity, it has a fresh abv: 12.5% Price: $15 firm backdrop, the wine needs to age. Drink from aftertaste. Republic National Distributing Co. —R.V. late 2019. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $16 Domaine de Bel-Air 2016 Les Granits Bleus abv: 12% Price: $20 87 (Beaujolais-Villages). Soft tannins and ripe, Domaine de Colette 2017 Coteaux de Colette juicy black fruits make this an attractive wine with Domaine Lathuilière Gravallon 2017 Les 88 (Beaujolais-Villages). Richly structured, layers of acidity and light spiciness. It is named 89 Extrèmes (Beaujolais-Villages). Spice along packed with tannins as well as fruit, this is a com- after the blue veins in the granite subsoil. Drink the with rich fruit give this wine a juicy, ripe character. plex wine for this appellation. Enticing red fruits wine now. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. Layers of gentle tannins add structure to the black- entwine with the dry tannins, while being lifted abv: 12.5% Price: $19 cherry and plum flavors. It is well balanced, gener- with acidity. Charles Neal Selections. —R.V. ous and ready to drink. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Domaine du Mont Verrier 2017 Beaujolais-­ abv: 13% Price: $17 87 Villages. Lightly structured and rich, this Domaine Joncy 2017 Beaujolais-Villages. A wine offers touches of spice as well as blackberry Domaine les Capréoles 2017 L’Amourgandise 88 ripe, attractively perfumed wine, this is rich fruits. Its tannins will allow it to age, although it 89 Terroir de Lantignié (Beaujolais-Villages). in red fruits and texture. Freshness is balanced by is already delicious. Drink now. DB Wine Selection. Partially aged in old wood, this wine with its ripe the undertow of ripe fruit to give a wine with a juicy —R.V. fruit and smooth tannins is full of rich, perfumed aftertaste. Drink now. Private Cask Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 flavors. The dry edge just adds to the attractive ripe- abv: 13% Price: $24 ness of the wine. Drink now. Vineyard Road. —R.V. Domaine Guenael Jambon 2017 Beaujolais- abv: 13% Price: $17 Lucien Lardy 2017 Vignes de 1951 87 Villages. The structure and smokiness of this 88 (Beaujolais-Villages).­ A single-vineyard wine will allow it to age. These balance against the Jean-Michel Dupré 2017 Vignes de 1940 wine from a parcel called Les Peloux, this is smooth, ripe fruit that is cut by acidity, giving freshness and 89 (Beaujolais-Villages). From 70-year-old velvet-textured and ripe. Fresh acidity and a crisp richness. Drink now. Jeffrey Alpert Selection. —R.V. vines planted on a single parcel, this wine has rich- edge give the wine a lift and will allow it to age a few abv: 12.5% Price: $26 ness and just the right amount of structure to sus- months. Drink from late 2019. Zancanella Import- tain the ripe black fruits. The wine is all fruit, with ing Co. —R.V. Domaine Nicolas Boudeau 2017 La Grume a full aftertaste. Drink now. Elliott Bay Distributing abv: 12.5% Price: $16 87 (Beaujolais-Villages). Bright juicy red fruits Co. —R.V. shine out of this attractive wine. It has a fresh feel, abv: 12.5% Price: $16 Agnès Pegaz 2017 Plaisirs de Pégase with only a light texture and with acidity and juici- 87 (Beaujolais-Villages).­ All about berry fruits, ness already in balance. Drink the wine now. New Château des Loges 2017 Sélection this wine is ripe and juicy. It comes from a nine- France Wine Co. Best Buy. —R.V. 88 (Beaujolais-Villages).­ This purple-colored acre vineyard of old vines that give concentration as abv: 12.5% Price: $12 wine is full of fruit, with a lightly tannic texture. well as bold, juicy black fruits. The wine is ready to It is full, with black-currant and cherry flavors and drink. Vinotas Selections. —R.V. Florent Descombe 2017 Château de Pougelon light acidity. The wine is textured and another few abv: 12.5% Price: $17 87 (Beaujolais-Villages). Rich and smoothly months will allow it to open. Drink now. Brescome textured, this is a generous wine with ripe tannins Barton. —R.V. Château de Pougelon 2017 Beaujolais-­ and juicy black-cherry fruitiness. It has enough abv: 13% Price: $16 87 Villages. Soft and fruity, this wine has structure to give the wine a balanced shape, ready attractive red-cherry flavors and a line of crisp acid- to drink now. Rodinia LLC. —R.V. Château Grand’ Grange 2017 La Cascade ity. A touch of spice give this round wine its final abv: 13% Price: $22 88 (Beaujolais-Villages). This wine is bright lift. Drink now. Wine Universe Corp. —R.V. with red fruits supplemented by light tannins and abv: 13% Price: $22 Georges Duboeuf 2018 Nouveau Domaine acidity. Made to be drunk young, it succeeds well, 87 des 3 Vallons (Beaujolais-Villages). Part of the forward fruitiness backed up judiciously by Château des Loges 2016 Sélection Duboeuf’s extensive range of classic Beaujolais sin- a drier edge. Drink the wine now. Wine Universe 87 (Beaujolais-Villages).­ Ripe and structured, gle-vineyard wines, this is bright, young and fruity. Corp. Best Buy. —R.V. this rich wine offers fine tannins and forward berry But it also has some structure to go with the red abv: 12.5% Price: $12 fruits. The generous fruitiness and acidity balance fruits, banana and perfumed acidity. Drink now. a dry edge that gives the wine shape. Drink now. Quintessential Wines. —R.V. Colin Bourisset 2017 Henri et Colin Bouris- Brescome Barton. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $17 88 set (Beaujolais-Villages). A well-structured abv: 13% Price: $14 wine, this already shows rich berry fruits that shine Joseph Drouhin 2018 Nouveau (Beaujolais- richly. The wine has weight, with rounded fruit Château des Vierres 2017 Beaujolais-Villages. 87 Villages). This Beaune negociant has pro- lifted with acidity. Gentle tannins complete this 87 This wine comes from a 12-acre vineyard duced a ripe, black-fruit-flavored wine that has attractive wine. Drink now. Vigne Direct. Best Buy. planted in the heart of the Beaujolais Villages appel- tannins as well as richness. With its structure along —R.V. lation. It has some concentration as well as juicy red with the acidity and brightness, the wine could age, abv: 13% Price: $12 fruits, backed up by tannins that need to soften for but is also delicious now. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Best a few months. Drink from summer 2019. Quintes- Buy. —R.V. Domaine André Collonge 2017 Beaujolais- sential Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $12 88 Villages. Both fresh and rich, this wine is abv: 13% Price: $17 crisp with acidity and lively with red-cherry flavors.

WINEMAG.COM | 39

BUYINGGUIDE

Louis Jadot 2017 Beaujolais-Villages. With acidity, the wine is still developing. Drink from late soft young fruit, which is unhappily dominated by 87 its light structure and good balance between 2019 when the tannins will have softened. Boisset banana flavors. Touches of tannins lie underneath cherry flavors and acidity, this is an attractive wine. Collection. —R.V. along with acidity. Drink this wine now. Wine Uni- It is all about fresh, crisp fruit, with just the right abv: 13.5% Price: $15 verse Corp. —R.V. amount of richness. Drink now. Kobrand. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 abv: 13% Price: $14 Pardon et Fils 2017 Cuvée P (Beaujolais- 86 Villages). Soft red cherries and touches Domaine de Roche-Guillon 2017 Beaujolais-­ of bananas give this gentle wine richness. It has a BEAUJOLAIS 86 Villages. This crisp, fresh wine offers rasp- warm feel to it, open and packed with fruitiness. berry and red-currant flavors. It has a young, fra- This should be drunk now. Saranty Imports. —R.V. Anthony Perol 2015 Bien Elevé Pierres Dorées grant character shot through with acidity. Drink abv: 13% Price: $13 91 (Beaujolais). From organically grown grapes, now. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. this wine is rich in wild-berry flavors, juicy acid- abv: 13% Price: $15 Vignobles Bulliat 2017 Beaujolais-Villages. ity and silky tannins. Its fresh aftertaste brings out 86 Spicy and with attractive cherry flavors, the fruitiness. Drink the wine now. Bonhomie Wine Domaine des Côtes du Berchoux 2017 this is a juicy, open wine. It has some structure as Imports. —R.V. 86 Beaujolais-Villages.­ This wine from a well as bold fruitiness. The wine is ready to drink. abv: 12.5% Price: $16 20-acre estate is lightly structured and fruity. It is T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. ripe with black-cherry flavors that are still develop- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Domaine Pral 2017 Les Pays des Pierres ing, suggesting the wine should age further. Drink 88 Dorées (Beaujolais). This soft and juicy from late 2019. Quintessential Wines. —R.V. Bouchard Aîné & Fils 2017 Beaujolais-­ wine comes from southern Beaujolais in the region abv: 12.5% Price: $17 85 Villages. This soft, fruity wine shows a where buildings have almost gold-colored stones touch of tannins as well as generous black fruits. It (pierres dorées). It is rich with attractive cherry fla- Domaine du Clos du Fief 2017 La Roche has acidity in a light structure along with plenty of vors, light tannin and plenty of acidity. Fresh and 86 (Beaujolais-Villages). This soft wine is full brightness. Drink now. Boisset Collection. —R.V. fruity, it’s ready to drink. JP Bourgeois. —R.V. of juicy red-berry flavors. Easy to drink with fresh abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $17 acidity at the end, the wine is ready now. Longtime producers in Beaujolais, the Tête family makes a Château de la Terrière 2017 Vieilles Vignes Domaines Chermette 2017 Origine Vieilles range of cru wines. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. 85 (Beaujolais-Villages). This fresh wine offers 88 Vignes (Beaujolais). From vines up to 85 abv: 13% Price: $17 plenty of acidity as well as open red fruits. It shows years old, this rich wine has generous tannins as some richness although the emphasis is on bright- well juicy red fruits. It is ready to drink despite its Domaine Duperray 2017 Glou-Glou ness and a crisp aftertaste. Drink now. Galaxy Wine structure, full bodied and fruity at the same time. 86 (Beaujolais-Villages).­ This simple wine is Company. —R.V. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. packed with fruit and acidity. It has a fresh char- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 13% Price: $18 acter with juicy red-currant and berry flavors and a light texture. Drink now. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Château de la Terrière 2017 Vin Nature à Vignerons des Pierres Dorées 2017 La Rose —R.V. 85 Butiner (Beaujolais-Villages). Bottled with- 87 Pourpre Vieilles Vignes (Beaujolais). This abv: 12.5% Price: $16 out sulfites, this wine has a farmyard character, giv- upfront, fruity wine has bold blackberry flavors ing off an unpleasant aroma. The red-cherry flavors touched with spice and finished with acidity. Berry Domaine Versant au Soleil 2017 Beaujolais- are more attractive, balanced with acidity. Let the flavors and fresh acidity come together with a 86 Villages. This juicy wine is fresh and very wine breathe for a few minutes for the odd smell to rounded and light texture. It is generous, silky and fruity. Lightly textured it offers plenty of acidity and blow away. Drink now. Cape Classics. —R.V. lightly tannic. Drink now. Tryon Distributors. —R.V. a tangy aftertaste. Drink this wine now. Total Bever- abv: 12.5% Price: $13 abv: 13% Price: $20 age Solution. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $16 Georges Duboeuf 2017 Flower Label Albert Bichot 2017 Château de Jarnioux 85 (Beaujolais-Villages).­ Ripe red fruits and a 86 Gamay (Beaujolais). This wine has great Georges Duboeuf 2018 Nouveau (Beaujolais- light structure of tannins give this wine shape. It is fruitiness but also some ripe tannins. It is refresh- 86 Villages). This wine, of course, has plenty balanced, full of fruitiness and acidity with a fresh ing and juicy with red-cherry flavors and plenty of fruitiness with red-berry flavors. But it also has aftertaste. Drink now. Quintessential Wines. —R.V. of crisp acidity. Not a wine for aging, it is ready to a tannic edge that could allow it to age, an unusual abv: 12.5% Price: $14 drink now. Albert Bichot USA. —R.V. thought for a Nouveau Beaujolais. It will go well abv: 12.5% Price: $12 with food, even with Thanksgiving turkey. Quintes- Jean-Claude Debeaune 2017 Special Selec- sential Wines. —R.V. 85 tion (Beaujolais-Villages). Bright fruit with Anthony Perol 2016 Les Pierres Dorées abv: 13% Price: $14 just a touch of tannin give this wine both structure 86 (Beaujolais). This bright, fruity wine is pro- and freshness. Its acidity and red fruits are spoiled duced from fruit grown organically in a walled vine- Georges Duboeuf 2017 Coeur de Presse by the touch of bananas. Drink the wine now. yard. Fresh acidity balances the smoky fruit flavors. 86 (Beaujolais-Villages). Produced from the Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —R.V. Drink now. Bonhomie Wine Imports. —R.V. first juice to come from the press after the hand- abv: 12.5% Price: $14 abv: 12.5% Price: $18 picked grapes are at the winery, this limited-pro- duction wine is full of ripe berry fruits and soft tan- Domaine du Gry-Sablon 2017 Emeringes Bouchard Aîné et Fils 2018 Nouveau (Beau- nins. Its acidity and lively character are all part of 84 (Beaujolais-Villages). Banana aromas don’t 86 jolais). This is a ripe style of new Beaujolais, a wine that could age for a few months. Drink from help this wine. It has soft tannins and banana and with red-berry fruits and a series of tannins that summer 2019. Quintessential Wines. —R.V. red-cherry flavors, giving freshness and a crisp give the wine shape. It’s not all serious though, with abv: 13% Price: $17 aftertaste. Drink now. Chemin Des Vins. —R.V. plenty of bubbly acidity as well as a bright after- abv: 12.5% Price: $17 taste. Drink now. Boisset Collection. —R.V. Mommessin 2017 Vieilles Vignes (Beaujolais-­ abv: 13% Price: $13 86 Villages). This wine has both tannins and L. Tramier & Fils 2017 Collection (Beaujolais- ripe black fruits, With its richness, structure and 84 Villages). This purple-colored wine has

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 Château de Pizay 2017 Beaujolais. Soft and has bright red fruits and a ripe character. Its soft 86 fruity, this is already a delicious wine. It is texture and acidity balance well with the delicious BEAUJOLAIS ROSÉ packed with red-cherry flavors that are underlined fruitiness. Drink now. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. by a touch of tannin and plenty of acidity. Drink the abv: 13% Price: $29 Domaine Franck Besson 2017 La Rosée de Jul- wine now. David Milligan Selections. —R.V. 87 lié (Beaujolais Rosé). Pale in color, this fra- abv: 12.5% Price: $12 Domaines Chermette 2017 Griotttes (Beau- grant wine is fresh and crisp. Acidity and red berry 85 jolais). Red cherries and touches of banana fruits show well against a background of light tan- Colin Bourisset 2017 Louis Bourisset Les are the hallmarks of this fruity wine. Brightly tex- nins and a juicy aftertaste. Drink now. Bonhomie 86 Pierres Dorées (Beaujolais). Ripe and fruity, tured and crisp with acidity, it is a light wine that is Wine Imports. —R.V. this soft wine comes from the southern part of ready to drink. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $16 Beaujolais. It has an easygoing character, with black abv: 12.5% Price: $16 cherries coming together with acidity to produce a Georges Duboeuf 2018 Nouveau (Beaujolais wine that is ready to drink. Vigne Direct. —R.V. Georges Duboeuf 2018 Nouveau (Beaujo- 87 Rosé). An innovation for Beaujolais Nou- abv: 12.5% Price: $12 85 lais). Grapes from southern Beaujolais, veau, this rosé is made from crisp, fruity Gamay the land of the gold-colored stone buildings, are with good acidity and bright flavors of red berries. Domaine Duperray 2017 Grains de Gamay the main source of this wine. It’s a typical, bubbly It’s an attractive wine that is refreshing and packed 86 (Beaujolais). This wine comes from the banana- and red-berry-flavored wine with a good with fruitiness. Quintessential Wines. —R.V. southern part of Beaujolais in the area known as streak of tannin and acidity. Of course, drink now. abv: 12.5% Price: $14 Pierres Dorées, or golden stones, from the color of Quintessential Wines. —R.V. the houses. It is a bright wine with attractive black abv: 12.5% Price: $13 Laurent Gauthier 2017 Vintage (Beaujolais fruits and plenty of acidity. Drink now. Fruit of the 87 Rosé). A wine that is all about fresh red ber- Vines, Inc. —R.V. Jean-Claude Debeaune 2017 Domaine Pig- ries, this is soft and refreshing. It has an attractive, abv: 13.5% Price: $14 85 nard (Beaujolais). A simple, fruity wine crisp edge that adds tang to the fruitiness of the from southern Beaujolais, this has attractive wine. Drink now. American Northwest Distributors Domaine Saint-Cyr 2017 La Galoche (Beaujo- red fruits and plenty of fresh acidity. Drink now. Inc. —R.V. 86 lais). Ripe, juicy fruit shines from this softly Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $16 textured wine. It has a rich character while keeping abv: 12% Price: $13 plenty of berry flavors and acidity. An attractive, Domaine des Nugues 2017 Beaujolais Rosé. fruity wine, it is ready to drink. T. Elenteny Imports. Louis Jadot 2017 Beaujolais. Soft, ripe and 86 Lightly textured and with plenty of acidity, —R.V. 85 rich, this is a juicy wine with simple red- this wine is gently fruity with an elegant character abv: 12.5% Price: $23 cherry fruits and soft tannins. An easy wine to like, that brings out both freshness and a mineral edge. it is ready to drink. Kobrand. —R.V. Drink now. J.A.E. Wine Imports. —R.V. Domaines Chermette 2017 Coeur de Vendan- abv: 12.5% Price: $13 abv: 12.5% Price: $20 86 ges Vignes Centenaires (Beaujolais). Ripe fruit and soft tannins are dominant in this wine Mommessin 2018 Nouveau (Beaujolais). Domaines Chermette 2017 Griotttes (Beau- made from old vines. It has concentration, touches 85 Bright and crisply fruity, this tangy berry- 86 jolais Rosé). Pale in color but rich in taste, of spice and bright red-cherry flavors. Drink now. and red-cherry-flavored wine has light tannins and this is a softly textured, ripe wine. Red fruits and Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. a fine texture of acidity. It’s attractively juicy and plenty of acidity provide the fresher side of the abv: 13% Price: $21 ready to drink now. Boisset Collection. —R.V. wine’s full character. Drink now. Weygandt-Met- abv: 13% Price: $13 zler. —R.V. Florent Descombe 2017 Cuvée B (Beaujo- abv: 13.5% Price: $16 86 lais). Ripe and soft, this negociant wine Domaine Clos Saint Roch 2017 Beaujolais. A is made for easy drinking when young. Plenty of 84 simple, red-fruit and banana-flavored wine, Boutinot 2017 Joli Beaurose (Beaujolais attractive blackberry fruits are cut with just the this has a soft texture and easy acidity. The wine is 85 Rosé). Gamay makes an attractive rosé and right amount of fresh acidity. Drink now. Gourmet ready to drink. Total Beverage Solution. —R.V. this lightly pink-colored wine is no exception. It is Food and Wine Distributor. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $14 crisp with red-currant flavor, a touch of caramel abv: 13% Price: $10 and plenty of acidity. Drink the wine now. Boutinot Domaine Romy 2017 Vielles Vignes Les USA, Inc. —R.V. Jean-Michel Dupré 2017 Vieilles Vignes 84 Pierres Dorées (Beaujolais). A lean wine abv: 13% Price: $13 86 (Beaujolais). At the top northwestern edge dominated by acidity, this is fresh and crisp but of Beaujolais, this high-altitude vineyard has pro- lacks fruit weight. It will soften but the fruit will Château de Javernand 2017 Rosé de Gamy duced a rich wine, all fruit and with concentration still not be there. Massanois Imports. —R.V. 85 (Beaujolais Rosé). A light and fruity wine from 65-year-old vines. The wine finishes with abv: 12.5% Price: $13 with crisp red-berry flavors and a soft texture, this attractive juicy acidity. Drink now. Elliott Bay Dis- is immediately attractive. Drink now. Field Blend tributing Co. —R.V. Georges Duboeuf 2017 Flower Label (Beau- Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $14 84 jolais). This simplest style of Beaujolais is abv: 12% Price: $18 soft and with red-cherry fruits. Acidity and a crisp Domaine Chasselay 2017 Beaujolais Is Not aftertaste give the wine a bright, lifted character. Domaine Saint-Cyr 2017 La Galoche (Beaujo- 85 Dead (Beaujolais). As Beaujolais comes Drink now. Quintessential Wines. —R.V. 85 lais Rosé). Light and fruity, this crisp wine back in favor, the Chasselay family used its sense of abv: 13% Price: $12 is full of raspberry flavors and acidity. Its freshness humor with this label. This organic wine sums up and juicy character are right up front. Drink now. the attractive red fruits of a simple wine from the Le Père la Grolle 2017 100% Bouchons 100% Paris Wine Company. —R.V. region. Drink now. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. 84 Mâchons (Beaujolais). This simple, red- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $16 cherry-flavored wine has attractive freshness along with the touch of spice. Drink immediately. Boisset Domaine Chasselay 2017 La Platière (Beaujo- Collection. —R.V. 85 lais). From a single organic parcel, this wine abv: 13.5% Price: $20

WINEMAG.COM | 41

BUYINGGUIDE

wine. A crisp texture and lively acidity are attractive attractive freshness and a crisp, tight aftertaste. BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES BLANC and refreshing. The wine is lively, fresh and ready to Drink this now. Boisset Collection. —R.V. drink. Bonhomie Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $19 Domaine des Nugues 2017 Beaujolais- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 88 Villages Blanc. Rich yellow fruits bring out Domaine Pral 2017 Les Pays des Pierres the ripeness and emphasize the opulent nature of Domaines Chermette 2016 Collonge (Beau- 85 Dorées (Beaujolais Blanc). Coming from the this wine. There’s enough acidity to balance all this 88 jolais Blanc). Grown on a mix of granite southern Beaujolais region where buildings have generosity and the wine could develop for a few and chalk soils, this perfumed wine with ripe yel- almost gold-colored stones, the pierres dorées, this more months. So best drink from summer 2019. DB low fruits has richness as well as a mineral texture. wine is gently textured with lemon and green apple. Wine Selection. —R.V. Fruitiness makes the wine immediately attractive. Acidity and a fresh aftertaste make this wine ready abv: 13% Price: $23 Drink now. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. to drink now. JP Bourgeois. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: 13% Price: $17 Domaine du Granit 2017 Beaujolais-Villages 88 Blanc. Soft fruit gently laced with acidity is Gilles Gelin 2017 Beaujolais Blanc. This Vignerons des Pierres Dorées 2017 Rostre behind this fresh wine. Its acidity has a crisp edge 88 warm, ripe wine has attractive yellow-fruit 85 de Bélemite (Beaujolais Blanc). From the that lifts the white stone-fruit flavors that have flavors and a rich texture. The smooth, creamy char- south of Beaujolais, this tropical-fruit-flavored gathered further richness from lees stirring. Drink acter is enhanced by touches of toast and honey. wine is gentle and with a rich texture. Acidity keeps this wine now. Bertrand’s Wines. —R.V. Drink this wine now. Petit Pois. —R.V. it fresh, balancing the ripe, warm fruitiness. Drink abv: 13% Price: $24 abv: 13% Price: $18 now. Tryon Distributors. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $22 Jean-Michel Dupré 2017 La Ronze Blanche Agnès Pegaz 2017 Plaisirs de Pégase (Beau- 88 (Beaujolais-Villages Blanc). Some barrel 87 jolais Blanc). This wine has concentrated aging has given this wine spice and ripe fruitiness. fruits and good density from lees contact. While VENETO Coming from young vines planted in Régnié vine- fresh, it has a mineral edge, tangy orange-peel fla- yards, it benefits from the granite soil that gives an vors and lively acidity at the end. Drink now. Vino- AMARONE DELLA edge of minerality. Drink this fruity, crisp wine from tas Selections. —R.V. VALPOLICELLA VALPANTENA summer 2019. Elliott Bay Distributing Co. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $18 Bertani 2015 Amarone della Valpolicella Val- Christophe Savoye 2017 Collection (Beau- 92 pantena. This opens with aromas of ripe Domaine Joncy 2017 Beaujolais-Villages 87 jolais Blanc). This gentle wine has acidity dark berry, underbrush, incense and baking spice. 87 Blanc. This smooth, creamy wine has and attractive, simple, white-stone-fruit flavors. The juicy palate delivers black cherry, chopped ripe yellow and citrus fruits already well inte- A warm wine, it shows a smooth texture with an mint, tobacco and a hint of clove alongside pol- grated together. The wine has also shows weight attractive tang of minerality at the end. Drink now. ished, fine-grained tannins. Taub Family Selections. and enough acidity. The estate is in conversion to Bertrand’s Wines. —R.V. —K.O. organic. Drink from late 2019. Private Cask Imports. abv: 12.5% Price: $19 abv: 15.5% Price: $62 —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $26 Domaine Bertrand 2017 Beaujolais Blanc. Tezza 2012 Amarone della Valpolicella Val- 87 Fresh and crisp, this is a fruity wine. Apple 89 pantena. Aromas of black pepper, ripe Lucien Lardy 2017 Beaujolais-Villages Blanc. and citrus flavors give a bright character. Drink this black plum and cedar emerge from the glass. The 87 Sixty-year-old Chardonnay vines have given lively wine now. Timothy Perry. —R.V. dense palate delivers blackberry jam, mocha and an intense wine with yellow-fruit and ripe quince abv: 13% Price: $23 star anise alongside big, chewy tannins. Regal Wine flavors that are balanced with acidity. Fresh and Imports Inc. —K.O. still a little young, this wine will be better from Domaine de la Bonne Tonne 2017 Beaujolais abv: 16.5% Price: $40 summer 2019. Zancanella Importing Co. —R.V. 87 Blanc. This fruity wine has an edge of min- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 erality that contrasts with the ripe, white stone Tezza 2011 Brolo delle Giare Riserva (Ama- fruits. The wine has richness as well as acidity, with 89 rone della Valpolicella Valpantena). Mocha, Robert Perroud 2017 Terres Blanches (Beau- a fresh aftertaste. Drink now. Vinea Imports. —R.V. baking-spice and mature dark-berry aromas come 87 jolais-Villages Blanc). This yeasty wine offers abv: 13.5% Price: $22 together on this big red. The brawny palate delivers fresh acidity and a mineral texture. Bright with raisin, espresso and clove alongside close-grained lemon and white-fruit flavors, it needs to settle in Domaine Duperray 2017 Grains de Chardon- tannins. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —K.O. for a few more months. Drink from summer 2019. 87 nay (Beaujolais Blanc). This light, refreshing abv: 15% Price: $50 Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. wine comes from a four-acre parcel. It has a creamy abv: 12.5% Price: $18 texture with apple acidity and a spicy pear after- AMARONE DELLA taste. Drink now. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO BEAUJOLAIS BLANC Domaine Saint-Cyr 2017 La Galoche (Beaujo- Allegrini 2011 Fieramonte Riserva (Amarone Domaine Chasselay 2017 Eparcieux (Beaujo- 86 lais Blanc). Soft but warm yellow and white 95 della Valpolicella Classico). Aromas evok- 90 lais Blanc). Named after the vineyard, this stone-fruit flavors give this wine a rich feel. It is ing fruitcake, red-plum preserve, exotic spice and wood-aged wine is rich and impressive. Great white open and smooth, with just a tang of acidity. Drink French oak take center stage. The full-bodied, gen- fruits, ripe acidity and touches of toast are cut with the wine now. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. erous palate also boasts finesse and focus, deliv- acidity. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23 ering cherry marinated in spirits, prune, crushed abv: 13.5% Price: $23 ­alpine herb, ground pepper and clove. Fine-grained, Mommessin 2017 Beaujolais Blanc. An aro- velvety tannins provide the backbone while fresh Domaine Franck Besson 2017 Les Chardon- 86 matic wine, this is fresh with citrus acid- acidity lifts the rich flavors. Drink 2021–2031. 88 nerets (Beaujolais Blanc). Vines in the first ity and gently textured. It has a light touch, with LUX Wines. Cellar Selection. —K.O. flush of youth, are behind this ebullient, fruity abv: 16.5% Price: $250

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 Allegrini 2014 Amarone della Valpolicella fresh acidity­ to lift the rich flavors. Drink now palate combines muscle and finesse, offering prune, 94 Classico. For full review see page 4. through 2025. ­Kobrand. —K.O. black cherry extract, spice and tobacco framed abv: 15.5% Price: $75 abv: 15% Price: $65 in firm velvety tannins. The warmth of alcohol and a dollop of vanilla linger on the close. Drink now Masi 2012 Costasera Riserva (Amarone della Monte del Frà 2012 Lena di Mezzo Scarnoc- through 2026. Dark Star Imports. —K.O. 94 Valpolicella Classico). Cocoa, baked plum, 93 chio Riserva (Amarone della Valpolicella abv: 15.5% Price: $120 toast, culinary spice and leather aromas shape the Classico). This full-bodied red opens with aromas nose. Full bodied and elegant, the smooth, dense of underbrush, steeped prune, French oak, ground Bertani 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella palate doles out fleshy black cherry, blackberry culinary spice and a whiff of graphite. The bold pal- 92 Classico. This opens with quintessential jam, licorice and clove while velvety tannins pro- ate delivers dried cherry marinated in spirits, rai- Amarone aromas of baked plum, dark spice, under- vide structure. It closes on an espresso note. Drink sin, licorice and tobacco while firm, velvety tannins brush, leather and pipe tobacco. The full-bodied through 2027. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —K.O. provide support. Drink through 2024. Vision Wine palate offers dried cherry, prune, toasted hazelnut, abv: 15.5% Price: $80 & Spirits. —K.O. star anise and clove set against fine-grained tan- abv: 15.5% Price: $100 nins. Drink through 2024. Taub Family Selections. Masi 2011 Campolongo di Torbe (Amarone —K.O. 94 della Valpolicella Classico). Enticing scents Nicolis 2012 Amarone della Valpolicella abv: 15% Price: $124 of cocoa, blackberry preserve, new leather and bak- 93 Classico.­ Intense aromas of violet, black- ing spice fill the glass. The full-bodied palate com- skinned berry, leather with a whiff of cake spice lead Cesari 2009 Bosan Riserva (Amarone della bines velvety finesse and power, delivering spiced the nose on this full-bodied wine. The luscious bal- 92 Valpolicella Classico). Smoke, leather, plum, raisin, clove and tobacco set against polished anced palate offers blackberry, mature plum, lico- scorched earth, mature plum and baking-spice aro- fine-grained atannins. Fresh acidity lifts the rich fla- rice, clove and white pepper alongside fine-grained mas mingle together. The brooding robust palate vors while a licorice note lingers on the close. Drink tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2020–2029. Ethica evokes morello cherry marinated in spirits, prune, 2021–2031. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —K.O. Wines. Cellar Selection. —K.O. licorice and clove alongside a network of taut close- abv: 16% Price: $160 abv: 15% Price: $79 grained tannins. A note of roasted coffee bean marks the close. Drink through 2024. Opici Wines. —K.O. Monte del Frà 2013 Lena di Mezzo (Amarone Novaia 2011 Le Balze Riserva (Amarone della abv: 15.5% Price: $110 94 della Valpolicella Classico). Inviting aromas 93 Valpolicella Classico). This opens with aro- of dark-skinned berry, pipe tobacco, cassis and cedar mas of violet, black-skinned berry, underbrush Masi 2011 Mazzano (Amarone della Valpo- lead the way on this smooth, full-bodied, savory red. and a whiff of exotic spice. The firmly structured 92 licella Classico). Underbrush, tobacco leaf, The concentrated balanced palate doles out ripe concentrated palate doles out dried black cherry, toasted oak and leather aromas lead the way. It’s black currant, raspberry jam, nutmeg and pepper raspberry jam, clove and black pepper alongside tight and concentrated, offering cassis, kirsch, prune, alongside fine-grained tannins. Drink through 2029. fine-grained tannins. Drink now through 2029. clove and licorice alongside firm, close-grained tan- Vision Wine & Spirits. Cellar Selection. —K.O. Zancanella Importing Co. —K.O. nins that grip the close. It closes on a hazelnut note. abv: 15.5% Price: $60 abv: 16% Price: $90 Drink 2023–2031. Kobrand. —K.O. abv: 16% Price: $180 Speri 2013 Vigneto Monte Sant’Urbano Tedeschi 2012 Capitel Monte Olmi Riserva 94 (­Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). ­For 93 (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Novaia 2013 Corte Vaona (Amarone della full review see page 6. Cellar Selection. Inviting aromas of tilled soil, underbrush and ripe 92 Valpolicella Classico). Enticing aromas of abv: 15% Price: $80 dark-skinned berry lead the nose. The full-bodied violet, dark berry, leather and a balsamic note lead concentrated palate delivers prune, raspberry com- the nose. The juicy palate offers dried black cherry, Zymè 2006 La Mattonara Riserva (Amarone pote, star anise and black pepper alongside big fine- licorice and black pepper alongside polished tan- 94 della Valpolicella Classico). Baked plum, grained tannins. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —K.O. nins and fresh acidity. Drink now–2027. Zancanella spice, vanilla and pressed violet aromas mingle with abv: 17% Price: $99 Importing Co. —K.O. a whiff of cassis. Dense and concentrated, the palate abv: 15% Price: $50 combines power and an almost weightless character, Tedeschi 2011 Capitel Monte Olmi Riserva doling out blackberry jam, black cherry, coconut and 93 (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). San Rustico 2012 Amarone della Valpolicella a confectionery note alongside velvety tannins. Drink ­Enticing aromas of scorched earth, cooking spice 92 Classico. This opens with enticing aromas of through 2026. Dark Star Imports. —K.O. and mature dark-skinned berry emerge from the ripe plum, violet, cinnamon and new leather. The abv: 16% Price: $340 glass. The dense full-bodied palate offers steeped savory palate offers blackberry extract, white pep- prune, licorice and black pepper alongside firm pol- per and mocha alongside enveloping polished tan- Le Salette 2014 La Marega (Amarone della ished tannins. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —K.O. nins. Votto Vines Importing. —K.O. 93 Valpolicella Classico). Enticing aromas of abv: 17% Price: $99 abv: 15.5% Price: $60 cassis, exotic spice, dark berry and baking spice form the nose. The concentrated savory palate Zenato 2012 Sergio Zenato Riserva (Ama- Valentina Cubi 2011 Morar (Amarone della delivers black cherry jam, ripe black plum, star 93 rone della Valpolicella Classico). Baked plum, 92 Valpolicella Classico). This opens with aro- anise and white pepper alongside fine-grained tan- fruitcake, underbrush and new leather are just some mas of ripe dark-skinned fruit, new leather and a nins. Vias Imports. —K.O. of the aromas you’ll find on this generous red. On balsamic note. The concentrated palate offers black- abv: 15.5% Price: $96 the concentrated palate, velvety tannins envelop currant jam, licorice, clove and tobacco alongside fleshy steeped in spirits, blackberry fine-grained tannins. Morgan Import LLC. —K.O. Masi 2013 Costasera (Amarone della Valpo- extract, baking spice and a confectionery note. abv: 17% Price: $63 93 licella Classico). This opens with aromas A hint of tobacco lingers on the close. Leonardo of black-skinned fruit, underbrush, tobacco and ­LoCascio Selections–The Winebow Group. —K.O. Brigaldara 2012 Case Vecie (Amarone della culinary spice. The full-bodied velvety palate doles abv: 16.5% Price: $140 91 Valpolicella Classico). This opens with aro- out prune, soaked cherry, star anise and mocha mas of ripe black-skinned berry, graphite and wrapped up in polished tannins. It boasts enough Zymè 2011 Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- cedar. The concentrated palate delivers blackberry 93 sico. Baked plum, pressed violet, smoke and nutmeg aromas pave the way on this bold red. The

WINEMAG.COM | 43

BUYINGGUIDE jam, baked plum, black pepper and clove alongside the nose. The big chewy palate doles out dried black Damoli 2011 Checo (Amarone della Valpo- brooding tannins. Vinifera Imports. —K.O. cherry, licorice and tobacco alongside firm polished 90 licella Classico). Aromas of toasted oak, abv: 16.5% Price: $80 tannins. Tradizione Imports. —K.O. coconut, black-skinned fruit and exotic spice lead abv: 16% Price: $180 the nose. The firm palate offers black-currant Guerrieri Rizzardi 2011 Calcarole (Amarone jam, espresso, licorice and tobacco alongside fine- 91 della Valpolicella Classico). Underbrush, sun- Zenato 2013 Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- grained tannins. Arte Vino. —K.O. baked earth, crushed herb and ground spice aromas 91 sico. Ripe blackberry, baked plum, forest- abv: 15.5% Price: $70 lead the nose. The brawny, concentrated palate floor and pipe-tobacco aromas are front and center. offers raisin, cherry marinated in spirits and lico- The plush full-bodied palate delivers dried cherry, Farina 2011 Montefante Riserva (Amarone rice alongside fine-grained tannins. Roasted coffee prune soaked in spirits, licorice and clove framed in 90 della Valpolicella Classico). Underbrush, bean marks the close. Elixir Wine Group. —K.O. velvety tannins. Even though the heat of alcohol is cedar and black-plum aromas take center stage on abv: 16% Price: $85 noticeable on the close, it’s well integrated with the this bold red. The firm palate offers prune, mocha, rich fruit flavors. Leonardo LoCascio Selections– black pepper and licorice alongside bracing tannins. Le Ragose 2008 Amarone della Valpolicella The Winebow Group. —K.O. Banville Wine Merchants. —K.O. 91 Classico.­ Ripe dark-berry, underbrush and abv: 16.5% Price: $67 abv: 16% Price: $100 cooking-spice aromas lead the way. The concen- trated, rich palate delivers raisin, star anise and Albino Armani 2013 Cuslanus Riserva (Ama- Giuseppe Campagnola 2015 Vigneti Vallata tobacco alongside firm, refined tannins. Frederick 90 rone della Valpolicella Classico). This opens 90 di Marano (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. with aromas evoking black-skinned fruit, tilled soil sico). Ripe dark-fruit, clove and tobacco aromas abv: 15.5% Price: $75 and cooking spice. The savory concentrated pal- lead the nose. The structured palate delivers prune, ate offers mature black plum, tobacco and licorice black pepper and espresso alongside tightly wound Le Salette 2014 Amarone della Valpolicella alongside velvety tannins. Saranty Imports. —K.O. tannins. Superior Wines. —K.O. 91 Classico. Violet, black-plum, underbrush and abv: 15.5% Price: $65 abv: 15% Price: $75 leather aromas lead the nose. The structured palate delivers blackberry jam, pipe tobacco and licorice Bolla 2012 Rethico (Amarone della Valpoli- Guerrieri Rizzardi 2011 Villa Rizzardi (Ama- alongside polished tannins. Vias Imports. —K.O. 90 cella Classico). This opens with aromas of 90 rone della Valpolicella Classico). This opens abv: 15.5% Price: $76 ripe dark-skinned fruit, mocha and cooking spice. with aromas of baked plum, exotic spice, scorched The forward palate offers blackberry jam, tobacco earth and a whiff of nail polish. Smooth and dense, Masi 2012 Serego Alighieri Vaio Arma- and star anise alongside firm tannins. Banfi Vint- the chewy palate doles out blackberry extract, 91 ron (­Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). ners. —K.O. cherry marinated in spirits and clove alongside fine- Scorched earth, prune, Asian spice, toasted nut and abv: 16% Price: $60 grained tannins. Elixir Wine Group. —K.O. leather aromas make their way to the forefront. The abv: 16% Price: $50 brawny palate offers raisin, cherry marinated in Brigaldara 2013 Amarone della Valpolicella spirits, licorice and tobacco set against fine-grained 90 Classico. Resin, leather and mature black- Le Ragose 2008 Marta Galli (Amarone della tannins. Drink through 2024. Kobrand. —K.O. skinned fruit aromas come together in the glass. 90 Valpolicella Classico). Aromas of mature abv: 15.5% Price: $88 The powerful palate delivers licorice, blackberry dark-skinned berry, cooking spice and cedar lead jam, steeped prune and tobacco alongside firm, fine- the nose. The concentrated palate offers blackberry Sartori 2011 Corte Brà (Amarone della Val- grained tannins. Vinifera Imports. —K.O. jam, clove and licorice alongside polished tannins. 91 policella Classico). Aromas of dried black- abv: 16.5% Price: $60 Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. skinned berry, black pepper and underbrush emerge abv: 15.5% Price: $110 from the glass. The concentrated palate offers Brigaldara 2011 Riserva (Amarone della Val- black-currant jam, steeped prune, licorice and bak- 90 policella Classico). Aromas of toasted oak, Monte Santoccio 2013 Amarone della Val- ing spice alongside fine-grained tannins. Banfi Vint- mature black-skinned fruit, nutmeg and mocha lead 90 policella Classico. This opens with aromas ners. —K.O. the nose. The dense brooding palate offers prune of raisin, leather and scorched earth. The brawny abv: 15.5% Price: $59 steeped in spirits, espresso and vanilla alongside palate delivers dried black cherry, black pepper close-grained tannins. Vinifera Imports. —K.O. and tobacco alongside firm ripe tannins. The Wine Tedeschi 2013 Amarone della Valpolicella abv: 16.5% Price: $200 Trust. —K.O. 91 Classico.­ This opens with aromas of dark abv: 16% Price: $65 cherry, cocoa and cedar. The concentrated palate Corte Aleardi 2009 Bure Alto (Amarone delivers black currant jam, pepper and cinnamon 90 della Valpolicella Classico). Aromas of black Nicolis 2009 Ambrosan (Amarone della Val- alongside fine-grained tannins. Dreyfus, Ashby & fruit, underbrush and vanilla emerge from the glass. 90 policella Classico). Steeped prune, tilled soil Co. —K.O. The dense palate delivers blackberry jam, clove and and vanilla aromas come together on this. The con- abv: 16% Price: $55 licorice while polished tannins lend support. You’ll centrated chewy palate delivers raisin, tobacco, clove also notice the heat of alcohol on the finish. RC Dis- and star anise alongside round tannins. It’s ready Tommasi 2008 De Buris Riserva (Amarone tributors. —K.O. now so drink through 2023. Ethica Wines. —K.O. 91 della Valpolicella Classico). Moist under- abv: 16.5% Price: $110 abv: 16% Price: $100 brush, grilled celery, smoke, steeped prune and tobacco aromas slowly take shape on this smooth Corte Aleardi 2008 Bure Alto Riserva (Ama- Secondo Marco 2011 Amarone della Valpo- full-bodied red. The soft concentrated palate is 90 rone della Valpolicella Classico). Aromas 90 licella Classico. This opens with aromas already accessible, offering baked plum, black- of ripe black fruit, underbrush and vanilla emerge of ripe dark-skinned fruit, tilled soil and baking cherry extract, vanilla and the heat of evident alco- from the glass. The dense palate delivers blackberry spice. The chewy concentrated palate offers prune, hol alongside velvety tannins. Vintus LLC. —K.O. jam, clove and licorice while polished tannins lend dried cherry, star anise and tobacco alongside pol- abv: 15.5% Price: $300 support. You’ll also notice the heat of alcohol on the ished tannins. Leonardo LoCascio Selections–The finish. RC Distributors. —K.O. Winebow Group. —K.O. Villa Spinosa 2007 Guglielmi di Jago 10 Years abv: 16.5% Price: $150 abv: 16% Price: $80 91 (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Aro- mas of underbrush, leather, and spiced plum lead

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 Tedeschi 2014 Amarone della Valpolicella firm palate delivers prune, espresso and star anise solid palate offers prune, vanilla and espresso along- 90 Classico. This opens with aromas of tilled alongside tightly wound tannins. Banville Wine side firm tannins. J & M Distributing Co. —K.O. soil, cooking spice and ripe dark fruit. The dense Merchants. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $50 palate delivers raisin, clove and tobacco alongside abv: 16% Price: $100 polished tannins. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —K.O. Manara 2012 Postera (Amarone della Valpo- abv: 16% Price: $55 La Dama 2013 Amarone della Valpolicella 88 licella Classico). This opens with ripe black- 89 Classico. This has aromas of mature black- skinned fruit, vanilla and mocha aromas. The grainy Tommasi 2011 Ca’ Florian Riserva (Amarone skinned fruit, leather and underbrush. The bold- palate delivers prune, espresso and clove alongside 90 della Valpolicella Classico). Aromas of rai- dense palate shows blackberry jam, licorice, clove assertive tannins. Vino Indiana. —K.O. sin, leafy underbrush and leather emerge from the and black pepper alongside polished tannins. Vera abv: 16% Price: $65 glass. The dense palate delivers prune, licorice and Food and Wine. —K.O. vanilla alongside big chewy tannins. Vintus LLC. abv: 16% Price: $60 San Michele 2012 Amarone della Valpolicella —K.O. 88 Classico. Aromas of mature black-skinned abv: 15.5% Price: $135 Manara 2012 Corte Manara (Amarone della fruit, tilled soil and baking spice lead the nose. The 89 Valpolicella Classico). Ripe dark-berry, solid palate offers prune, dried cherry, walnut and a Vigneti di Ettore 2013 Amarone della underbrush and baking-spice aromas form the nose. confectionery note alongside buffed tannins. Misa 90 Valpolicella Classico. Aromas of black- The hearty palate offers raisin, dill, clove and black ­Imports. —K.O. skinned fruit, leather and baking spices take center pepper alongside velvety tannins. Vino Indiana. abv: 16% Price: $33 stage. The hearty full-bodied palate offers raisin, —K.O. white pepper and clove alongside velvety tannins. abv: 16% Price: $55 Spada 2013 Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- de ­Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. 88 sico. Aromas of ripe dark fruit, mocha and abv: 16% Price: $66 Montresor 2013 Capitel della Crosara (Ama- toasted oak lead the way. The dense chewy palate 89 rone della Valpolicella Classico). Plum-cake, delivers raisin, licorice and cocoa alongside close- Villa Spinosa 1998 Guglielmi di Jago 20 exotic spice and ripe black-plum aromas emerge grained tannins. Carpe Vinum. —K.O. 90 Years (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). from the glass. The brawny palate offers prune, abv: 16% Price: $49 Dried black-cherry, exotic spice and sweet pipe- clove and vanilla alongside assertive tannins. tobacco aromas lead the nose on this mature wine. ­Saranty Imports. —K.O. Villalta 2015 XIX (Amarone della Valpoli- The smooth forward palate offers raisin, prune, abv: 15.5% Price: $60 88 cella Classico). Blackberry, mature plum cinnamon and star anise alongside buffed tannins. and clove aromas take shape in the glass. The soft ­Tradizione Imports. —K.O. Villa Spinosa 2010 Albasini (Amarone straightforward palate evokes prune, star anise and abv: 15.5% Price: $340 89 della Valpolicella Classico). This opens a hint of black pepper alongside pliant, rather fleet- with aromas evoking raisin, underbrush and dried ing tannins. Ethica Wines. —K.O. Villalta 2015 I Comunali (Amarone della Val- tobacco leaf. The chewy palate delivers dried sour abv: 15% Price: $45 90 policella Classico). Made with organically cherry, prune and licorice alongside firm tannins. farmed grapes, this opens with aromas of spiced ­Tradizione Imports. —K.O. Giuseppe Campagnola 2013 Caterin Zardini plum, underbrush, violet and pipe tobacco. The abv: 16% Price: $99 87 Riserva (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- earthy accessible palate delivers steeped prune, star sico). This opens with aromas of prune, vanilla and anise and a hint of game alongside smooth tannins. Vogadori 2013 Forlago (Amarone della Val- espresso. The brawny palate offers raisin, clove and Ethica Wines. —K.O. 89 policella Classico). This opens with aromas toasted oak alongside assertive astringent tannins abv: 15% Price: $75 of ripe dark berry, underbrush and toasted oak. The that leave the drying finish. Superior Wines. —K.O. chewy palate delivers raisin, mocha and licorice abv: 15.5% Price: $100 Vogadori 2012 Proemio (Amarone della alongside close-grained tannins. Pazzione Imports. 90 Valpolicella Classico). This opens with aro- —K.O. Giusti 2014 Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- mas of exotic spice, mature dark-skinned fruit and abv: 15% Price: $55 87 sico. This has aromas reminiscent of prune, cocoa. The brawny palate offers raisin, blackberry blue flower, cooking spice and a whiff of resin. The jam and tobacco alongside tightly knit tannins. Aldegheri 2013 Amarone della Valpolicella syrupy palate evokes raisin, baking spice and a con- Pazzione Imports. —K.O. 88 Classico. This opens with aromas suggesting fectionery note alongside pliant, not very persistent abv: 16% Price: $79 ripe black plum, forest floor and leather. The robust tannins. You’ll also detect the warmth of alcohol on palate delivers prune, white pepper and nutmeg the close. Romano Brands. —K.O. Bolla 2013 Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- alongside chewy tannins. Tavolo Vigneto. —K.O. abv: 16.5% Price: $115 89 sico. Aromas of ripe black-skinned berry, abv: 15% Price: $65 tobacco and toasted oak emerge from the glass. The Luigi Righetti 2014 Amarone della Valpo- chewy palate delivers prune, mocha and licorice Aldegheri 2013 Sant’Ambrogio (Amarone 87 licella Classico. This opens with aromas of alongside assertive tannins. Banfi Vintners. —K.O. 88 della Valpolicella Classico). The shy nose black-skinned berry, cedar and cooking spice. The abv: 15% Price: $46 eventually reveals suggestions of dried dark- easy­going palate offers dried black cherry, tobacco skinned fruit, underbrush and a toasted hazelnut and white pepper alongside round tannins. Prestige Farina 2015 Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- note. The big, one-dimensional palate is already Wine Imports Corp. —K.O. 89 sico. Mature dark-skinned berry, baking- evolved, offering notes of raisin, clove and a note of abv: 14.5% Price: $40 spice and scorched earth aromas lead the nose. powdered sage alongside soft but not very persis- The forward palate offers prune, white pepper and tent tannins. Tavolo Vigneto. —K.O. Novacorte 2014 Amarone della Valpolicella clove alongside tightly knit tannins. Banville Wine abv: 15.5% Price: $75 87 Classico. Aromas of steeped prune, leafy Merchants. —K.O. underbrush and cooking spice form the nose. The abv: 15% Price: $50 Bellora 2014 Amarone della Valpolicella dense one-dimensional palate offers raisin, mocha 88 Classico. This opens with aromas of ripe and a hint of clove alongside tightly packed tannins. Farina 2012 Riserva (Amarone della Valpo- black-skinned fruit, toasted wood and cocoa. The —K.O. 89 licella Classico). This has aromas evoking abv: 16% Price: $NA cocoa, underbrush and mature black plum. The

WINEMAG.COM | 45

BUYINGGUIDE

S. Giorgio 2013 Amarone della Valpolicella ported by the fruit richness. Morgan Import LLC. berry jam and star anise alongside chewy tannins. 87 Classico. This opens with aromas of scorched —K.O. M&M Wine Import. —K.O. earth, cooking spice and a hint of ripe dark-skinned abv: 17% Price: $79 abv: 17.5% Price: $125 fruit. The robust straightforward palate offers rai- sin, vanilla and clove alongside solid tannins. Forza Antolini 2014 Moropio (Amarone della Val- I Saltari 2011 Amarone della Valpolicella. Aro- Wine Imports. —K.O. 92 policella). Tobacco, underbrush and ripe 91 mas of mature black-skinned berry, forest abv: 15.5% Price: $45 dark-berry aromas lead the nose. The savory struc- floor and a balsamic note emerge from the glass. tured palate offers raisin, clove and black pepper set The smooth ripe palate delivers prune, star anise Tenuta Valleselle 2015 Aureum Acinum against fine-grained tannins. Domenico Valentino. and white pepper alongside velvety tannins. Banfi 87 (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). This —K.O. Vintners. —K.O. opens with aromas of grilled sage, cooking spice abv: 16% Price: $55 abv: 15.5% Price: $66 and a whiff of black-skinned fruit. The straightfor- ward palate offers prune, mocha and clove alongside Castellani Michele & Figli 2015 Colle Cristi Sartori 2014 Estate Collection (Amarone della round tannins. Opera Wine Imports. —K.O. 92 Red Blend (Amarone della Valpolicella). 91 Valpolicella). For full review see page 13. abv: 15% Price: $50 Violet, mature dark-fruit and cooking-spice aro- abv: 15% Price: $55 mas lead the nose. The dense concentrated palate AMARONE DELLA offers raisin, raspberry jam, cinnamon and cocoa Villa Erbice 2011 Tremenel (Amarone della Val- alongside smooth, velvety tannins. Montcalm Wine 91 policella). This opens with aromas suggesting VALPOLICELLA Importers. —K.O. tilled soil, leather and mature black-skinned fruit. abv: 15.5% Price: $62 The concentrated palate delivers blackberry jam, Corte Sant’Alda 2012 Mithas (Amarone cocoa, licorice and white pepper alongside chewy 94 della Valpolicella). Made with organically Tenuta Vignega 2010 Riserva (Amarone della tannins. Charlemagne Fine Wines. —K.O. farmed dried grapes, this boasts inviting aromas 92 Valpolicella). Made with organically farmed abv: 16% Price: $60 of ripe dark-skinned berry, tilled soil, new leather dried grapes, this opens with aromas of stewed and baking spice. Concentrated yet elegant, the pal- prune, baking spice and vanilla. The big savory pal- Bolla 2011 Le Origini Riserva (Amarone della ate delivers ripe black plum, blackberry jam, clove ate doles out black-currant jam, licorice, nutmeg 90 Valpolicella). Mature dark-skinned berry, and black pepper alongside fine-grained tannins and and white pepper alongside fine-grained tannins. cocoa and culinary-spice aromas lead the nose. The fresh acidity. A licorice note wraps up the long fin- Cuvée Imports. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. densely concentrated palate delivers blackberry ish. Drink ­2020–2030. Lyra Wine. Cellar Selection. abv: 16% Price: $25 jam, star anise and black pepper alongside firm, —K.O. polished tannins. Banfi Vintners. —K.O. abv: 15.5% Price: $246 Acinum 2015 Amarone della Valpolicella. Dark abv: 16.5% Price: $65 91 berry, violet and underbrush aromas lead the Cesari 2012 Il Bosco (Amarone della Valpoli- nose. The savory balanced palate offers blackberry Ca’ Rugate 2014 Punta Tolotti (Amarone 93 cella). This opens with aromas of ripe berry, jam, white pepper and star anise alongside velvety 90 della Valpolicella). Aromas of violet, exotic underbrush, cedar and pipe tobacco. The concen- tannins. Vias Imports. —K.O. spice and ripe dark berry lead the nose. The envel- trated balanced palate offers blackberry jam, baked abv: 15% Price: $56 oping palate delivers dried black cherry, nutmeg plum, star anise and clove alongside fine-grained and white pepper alongside fine-grained velvety tannins. Opici Wines. —K.O. Corte Giara 2015 Amarone della Valpolicella. tannins. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —K.O. abv: 15.5% Price: $85 91 ­Inviting aromas of baked plum, exotic spice, abv: 15% Price: $40 blue flower and a balsamic whiff of menthol all Corte Sant’Alda 2012 Valmezzane (Amarone take shape in the glass. It’s full bodied but acces- Castellani Michele & Figli 2015 Cinque Stelle 93 della Valpolicella). Made with organically sible, delivering spiced prune, fruitcake, mocha and 90 (Amarone della Valpolicella). Ripe dark farmed grapes, this opens with aromas of violet, star anise. Polished tannins provide finesse. Drink fruit, baking spice and cedar lead the nose. The dense dark-skinned berry and new leather. The concen- through 2023. Innovino International. —K.O. palate offers raisin, vanilla and star anise alongside trated, balanced palate delivers blackberry jam, abv: 15% Price: $45 firm tannins. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. baked plum, licorice and ground black pepper. Solid abv: 15.5% Price: $89 but velvety tannins provide the backbone. Lyra Fattori 2011 Amarone della Valpolicella. Ripe Wine. —K.O. 91 dark-berry, underbrush and baking-spice Cesari 2014 Amarone della Valpolicella. abv: 15.5% Price: $112 aromas lead the nose. The concentrated palate 90 Ripe dark-fruit, toasted oak and cooking- delivers blackberry jam, licorice and tobacco along- spice aromas emerge from the glass. The dense San Rustico 2011 Gaso (Amarone della Valpo- side polished chewy tannins. The Wine Company. palate delivers prune, black pepper and cinnamon 93 licella). Aromas of baked plum, blue flower, —K.O. alongside firm tannins. Opici Wines. —K.O. underbrush and a balsamic note lead the nose. The abv: 16% Price: $90 abv: 15% Price: $55 concentrated, savory palate offers blackberry jam, dried black cherry, star anise and cinnamon along- Garbole 2010 Hatteso Riserva (Amarone della Dal Forno Romano 2012 Monte Lodoletta side fine-grained, velvety tannins. Votto Vines 91 Valpolicella). Aromas of cedar, crushed vio- 90 (Amarone della Valpolicella). Aromas of Importing. —K.O. let and black pepper lead the way. The polished underbrush, prune, minestrone soup and grilled abv: 16% Price: $70 palate delivers dried black cherry, raisin, nutmeg bell pepper lead the nose while whiffs of French oak, and vanilla alongside velvety tannins. Park Street leather and coconut stay in the background. The Valentina Cubi 2011 Morar (Amarone della Imports. —K.O. densely concentrated, tightly knit palate offers rai- 93 Valpolicella). Made from organically farmed abv: 15.5% Price: $120 sin, blackberry extract, clove, licorice and dried sage grapes, this offers enticing aromas of cassis, dark- while assertive grainy tannins leave an astringent skinned berry and exotic spice. The bold palate Gino Fasoli 2012 Alteo (Amarone della Valpo- mouth-drying finish. Wilson Daniels Ldt. —K.O. doles out ripe black plum, raspberry jam, black 91 licella). Made with organically farmed dried abv: 17% Price: $406 pepper and nutmeg alongside fine-grained tannins. grapes, this robust, structured wine opens with You’ll also detect the warmth of alcohol but it’s sup- aromas of ripe dark-skinned berry, baking spice and Fattori 2014 Col de la Bastia (Amarone della leather. The big brawny palate offers raisin, black- 90 Valpolicella). Dried violet, cooking-spice

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 and leather aromas emerge from the glass. The palate offers prune, licorice and espresso alongside cooking spice and prune lead the nose. The warm, brawny palate offers black-cherry jam, star anise close-grained tannins. Dionysos Imports Inc. —K.O. dense palate offers dried black cherry, mocha and and chewing tobacco alongside velvety tannins. The abv: 16% Price: $47 clove alongside close-grained tannins. Selected Wine Company. —K.O. ­Estates of Europe Ltd. —K.O. abv: 15.5% Price: $52 Corte Moschina 2014 Amarone della Val- abv: 16% Price: $80 89 policella. Ripe dark-fruit, tilled soil and Fidora 2011 Monte Tabor (Amarone della exotic spice aromas come together in the glass. The Monteci 2012 Amarone della Valpolicella. 90 Valpolicella). Made with organically farmed firm palate offers licorice, dried black cherry and 89 This opens with aromas of ripe dark berry, grapes, this has aromas of iris, spiced plum and a tobacco alongside polished tannins. Best Beverage coconut and underbrush. The bracing palate dis- whiff of mocha. The structured palate offers black- Corporation. —K.O. plays raisin, roasted coffee bean and tobacco along- berry jam, espresso and star anise alongside fine- abv: 15% Price: $65 side grainy tannins that grip the finish. Wine 4 All. grained tannins. Astor Wines. —K.O. —K.O. abv: 16% Price: $80 Costa Arènte 2013 Amarone della ­Valpolicella. abv: 15.5% Price: $45 89 Aromas of scorched earth, toasted hazel- Luciano Arduini 2015 Amarone della Valpoli- nut and ripe dark fruit emerge from the glass. The Provolo 2011 Amarone della Valpolicella. 90 cella. This brawny red opens with aromas of firm palate delivers dried black cherry, mocha and 89 Subdued aromas suggesting scorched earth, mature dark-skinned berry, new leather and cedar. tobacco alongside fine-grained tannins. Montcalm used leather and steeped prune emerge from the The full-bodied palate delivers plum jam, vanilla Wine Importers. —K.O. glass. The evolved palate delivers raisin, star anise, and nutmeg alongside velvety tannins. Selected abv: 16.5% Price: $70 powdered sage and tobacco alongside close-grained Estates of Europe Ltd. —K.O. but fleeting tannins. Bay Vino. —K.O. abv: 16% Price: $60 Dal Cero 2013 Amarone della Valpolicella. abv: 15.5% Price: $70 89 Aromas of plum cake, vanilla and baking Massimago 2013 Amarone della Valpoli- spice lift out of the glass. The dense palate delivers San Cassiano 2014 Amarone della Valpoli­ 90 cella. This opens with earthy aromas of prune, clove and white pepper alongside rounded 89 cella. Aromas of ripe dark berry, cooking underbrush, dark berry and tobacco leaf. The con- tannins. Wine Universe Corp. —K.O. spice and underbrush lead the nose. The dense pal- centrated palate delivers raisin, vanilla and pepper abv: 16% Price: $59 ate offers blackberry jam, clove and mocha along- alongside solid fine-grained tannins. Artisanal Cel- side assertive tannins. Marcato Direct. —K.O. lars. —K.O. Gamba 2011 Campedel Riserva (Amarone abv: 15.5% Price: $55 abv: 16.5% Price: $65 89 della Valpolicella). Aromas of ripe dark berry, tilled soil and ground black pepper shape Tezza 2013 Corte Majoli (Amarone della Val- Ottella 2013 Ripa della Volta (Amarone the nose. The dense palate delivers toasted notes, 89 policella). Aromas of baking spice, mocha 90 della Valpolicella). Underbrush, prune, espresso, prune and vanilla alongside close-grained and raisin lead the nose. The chewy palate delivers leather, French oak and mocha aromas slowly shape tannins. Free Run Wine Merchants. —K.O. prune, licorice and white pepper alongside rounded the nose. The bold palate doles out steeped plum, abv: 16.5% Price: $250 tannins. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —K.O. dried black cherry, vanilla and a confectionery note abv: 15% Price: $25 alongside fine-grained tannins. It closes on the Garbole 2009 Hatteso Riserva (Amarone warmth of alcohol. Vino Vero. —K.O. 89 della Valpolicella). Scorched earth, mocha Villa Canestrari 2011 1888 Riserva (Amarone abv: 16.5% Price: $80 and ripe black-plum aromas form the nose. The for- 89 della Valpolicella). This opens with aromas ward palate offers prune, espresso and star anise of ripe black plum, leafy underbrush and a whiff San Cassiano 2013 Riserva (Amarone della alongside close-grained tannins. Park Street Imports. of baking spice. The dense palate delivers raisin, 90 Valpolicella). Aromas of ripe dark berry, —K.O. ground pepper and clove alongside tightly knit tan- tobacco and a whiff of mocha emerge from the glass. abv: 15.5% Price: $110 nins and the heat of evident alcohol. International The concentrated palate delivers dried black cherry, Cellars. —K.O. licorice and pepper alongside tightly knit tannins. Garbole 2008 Hatteso Riserva (Amarone abv: 16.5% Price: $143 Marcato Direct. —K.O. 89 della Valpolicella). Tilled soil, baking-spice abv: 15.5% Price: $90 and ripe dark-skinned fruit aromas emerge from Villa Canestrari 2011 Plenum Riserva (Ama- the glass. The linear palate offers raisin, licorice and 89 rone della Valpolicella). Aromas of mature Santi 2013 Santico (Amarone della Valpo- clove alongside chewy tannins. Park Street Imports. dark berry, mocha and baking spice come to the 90 licella). Enticing aromas of black-skinned —K.O. forefront. The syrupy palate offers prune, star anise berry, underbrush and cedar come together on this. abv: 15.5% Price: $110 and a hint of cocoa alongside tightly packed tannins. The chewy palate delivers blackberry jam, mocha International Cellars. —K.O. and star anise alongside firm tannins. Frederick I Campi 2015 I Campi Lunghi (Amarone della abv: 15.5% Price: $89 Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. 89 Valpolicella). This opens with ripe black- abv: 15% Price: $49 plum, underbrush and toasted oak aromas. The pal- Zonin 2014 Amarone della Valpolicella. ate delivers prune, roasted coffee bean and cocoa 89 Aromas of moist underbrush, tobacco leaf, Adalia 2014 Ruvalin (Amarone della Valpo- alongside chewy tannins. Imports. —K.O. prune and clove slowly take shape on this. The soft 89 licella). This opens with aromas suggesting abv: 16% Price: $60 approachable palate offers dried cherry, prune, raisin, forest floor, tobacco leaf and raisin. On the brown pepper and a confectionery note alongside straightforward palate, smooth tannins support Le Marognole 2013 Campo Rocco (Amarone rounded tannins and fresh acidity. Drink through prune, black plum and baking spice. Yountville 89 della Valpolicella). Iris, spiced plum and 2022. Zonin USA. —K.O. Wine Imports. —K.O. raisin aromas come together on this. The dense pal- abv: 15.5% Price: $49 abv: 15.5% Price: $78 ate offers blackberry jam, licorice and mocha along- side firm tannins. Peter Warren Selections. —K.O. Cà d’Or 2014 Nerofusco (Amarone della Corte Adami 2015 Red Blend (Amarone della abv: 16.5% Price: $60 88 Valpolicella). Aromas of tilled earth, Asian 89 Valpolicella). Aromas of toasted oak, coco- spice and mature black-skinned fruit come together nut and ripe dark fruit lead the nose. The dense Luciano Arduini 2015 Simison (Amarone on this hearty red. Mirroring the nose, the robust 89 della Valpolicella). Aromas of toasted oak, palate evokes dried cherry marinated in spirits,

WINEMAG.COM | 47

BUYINGGUIDE ground pepper and a dollop of vanilla. A&B Wines Trabucchi d’Illasi 2008 Cent’Anni Riserva Ca’ de’ Rocchi 2015 La Bastia (Amarone della & Spirits. —K.O. 88 (Amarone della Valpolicella). Toasted oak, 86 Valpolicella). Packaged in an extremely abv: 16% Price: $55 steeped prune, coffee and coconut emerge from the heavy bottle, this has a shy nose that eventu- glass. The dense palate delivers espresso, vanilla and ally reveals subdued aromas of leafy underbrush, Corte Moschina 2011 Vigneto Cav (Amarone dried black cherry alongside assertive tannins that prune and oak. The forward one-dimensional palate 88 della Valpolicella). Toasted oak, espresso leave a drying finish. Caroline Debbané Selections. offers mocha, raisin and a drop of vanilla alongside and black-cherry aromas lead the nose. The dense —K.O. evolved tannins. Opera Wine Imports. —K.O. palate offers vanilla, roasted coffee bean and black- abv: 16.5% Price: $92 abv: 15% Price: $40 berry jam alongside bracing tannins. Best Beverage Corporation. —K.O. Villa Canestrari 2015 Red Blend (Amarone Castelforte 2014 Amarone della Valpolicella. abv: 16% Price: $105 88 della Valpolicella). Subdued aromas evoking 86 Earthy aromas of game, tilled soil and prune tobacco, prune and baking spice slowly emerge from lead the nose. The one-dimensional palate offers Degani 2013 Amarone della Valpolicella. the glass. The straightforward palate offers stewed roasted coffee bean, coconut and raisin alongside 88 Black plum, cocoa and tobacco aromas lead prune, star anise and a black-pepper note alongside assertive tannins. Vidalco International, LLC. —K.O. the nose. The chewy palate offers raisin, roasted grainy tannins. International Cellars. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $25 coffee bean and star anise alongside tightly packed abv: 15% Price: $47 tannins. Enotec Imports, Inc. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $49 Villa Mattielli 2012 Amarone della Valpoli- VERONESE 88 cella. Aromas of toasted oak, dark cooking Gamba 2013 Campedel (Amarone della spice and mature black fruit emerge from the glass. Allegrini 2015 La Grola (Veronese). A blend 88 Valpolicella). Aromas of toasted oak, dark The linear palate displays raisin, espresso and a 92 of 90% Corvina Veronese and 10% ­Oseleta, cooking spice and mature black-skinned fruit tobacco note alongside grainy tannins. Empson USA this alluring red opens with aromas of wild berry, emerge from the glass. The linear palate offers coco- Ltd. —K.O. tobacco and a whiff of coffee bean. It’s elegant and nut, roasted coffee bean and raisin alongside grainy abv: 15% Price: $45 full bodied, offering ripe plum, black cherry, star tannins. Free Run Wine Merchants. —K.O. anise and ground pepper alongside taut fine-grained abv: 16% Price: $80 Bonfanti 2015 Gran Lombardo (Amarone tannins. Drink through 2025. LUX Wines. —K.O. 87 della Valpolicella). Aromas of steeped prune, abv: 14% Price: $40 Monte Tondo 2014 Amarone della Valpoli­ leafy underbrush and toasted oak lead the nose. The 88 cella. This opens with aromas of black dense one-dimensional palate offers raisin, coffee Allegrini 2015 Palazzo della Torre plum, baking spice and tobacco. The syrupy pal- bean and espresso alongside tightly packed tannins 90 (Veronese).­ For full review see page 13. ate offers prune extract, vanilla and star anise set that leave a drying finish. Candela Trading Agency. abv: 13.5% Price: $23 against chewy tannins. August Wine Group. —K.O. —K.O. abv: 16% Price: $87 abv: 16% Price: $75 WHITE WINE Provolo 2015 Tenuta Ca’ Nova (Amarone Montresor 2015 Amarone della Valpolicella. 88 della Valpolicella). This has subdued aro- 87 Aromas of tilled soil, baking spice and raisin Zymè 2017 From Black to White (Veneto). A mas evoking Asian spice, prune, underbrush and a lead the nose. The aromas carry over to the straight- 93 blend of Rondinella Bianca, Gold Traminer, whiff of toast. The rather evolved, monolithic pal- forward palate together with prune and a confection- Kerner and Incrocio Manzoni, this fragrant, savory ate offers raisin steeped in spirits, black pepper and ery note while grainy tannins give it a firm finish. white opens with aromas of lime zest, yellow stone licorice alongside dusty rather fleeting tannins. Bay Saranty Imports. —K.O. fruit and aromatic herb. The succulent, delicious Vino. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $46 palate doles out honeydew melon, creamy peach abv: 15.5% Price: $45 and apricot alongside tangy citrus. A saline note Tinazzi 2015 Collezione di Famiglia (Amarone marks the close. Banville Wine Merchants. Editors’ Provolo 2003 Riserva (Amarone della 87 della Valpolicella). This opens with aromas Choice. —K.O. 88 Valpolicella). Aromas of resin, nail pol- of raisin, dark spice and sage. The aromas carry over abv: 13% Price: $20 ish remover and steeped prune lead the nose. The to the one-dimensional palate along with grainy evolved, densely concentrated palate offers glimpses tannins that leave a sharp finish. Caput Mundi of raisin and licorice alongside buffed tannins. Bay Wine Import. —K.O. PROSECCO Vino. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $40 abv: 16% Price: $270 Nino Franco 2016 Brut Nodi (Valdobbiadene Torre d’Orti 2015 Amarone della Valpolicella. 92 Prosecco). Aromas of white spring flower Roncolato 2013 Amarone della Valpolicella. 87 This opens with ripe dark fruit and tilled soil and orchard fruit form the nose on this elegant 88 This opens with aromas of ripe dark berry, aromas. The brawny one-dimensional palate offers sparkler. Mirroring the aromas, the silky palate mushroom and tilled soil. The firm palate offers rai- raisin, dark spice, a note of powdered sage and the doles out ripe pear, juicy golden apple and crushed sin, toasted oak and espresso accompanied by close- heat of evident alcohol while assertive tannins grip herb alongside crisp acidity. A foaming mousse grained tannins. Mimmo Wine Distribution. —K.O. the close. —K.O. lends finesse. Terlato Wines International. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $45 abv: 17% Price: $NA abv: 11.5% Price: $36

Trabucchi d’Illasi 2009 Amarone della Val- Zanoni 2012 Zovo (Amarone della Valpoli­ Nino Franco 2017 Vigneto della Riva di San 88 policella. Aromas of scorched earth, ripe 87 cella). This opens with ripe black-fruit, 91 Floriano (Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). black-skinned fruit and cooking spice lead the way. toasted oak and cooking-spice aromas. The brawny Fragrant and polished, this elegant sparkler opens The robust monolithic palate offers blackberry palate offers prune, roasted coffee bean and vanilla with enticing aromas of white spring flower and jam, prune, tobacco and a hint of mocha alongside packed in assertive tannins. U.S. Wine Imports. orchard fruit. On the juicy palate, a silky mousse rounded tannins. Caroline Debbané Selections. —K.O. caresses ripe apple, Bartlett pear and wild herb. It —K.O. abv: 16.5% Price: $50 closes on a fennel note. Terlato Wines International. abv: 16% Price: $56 —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $29

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 Nino Franco 2017 Brut (Valdobbiadene Pro- polished tannins. Drink through 2022. Webster tannins that leave a drying finish. Selected Estates 90 secco Superiore). Honeysuckle, green-apple Barnes LLC. —K.O. of ­Europe Ltd. —K.O. and white-almond aromas follow over to the lightly abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 14% Price: $30 foaming palate along with pear, crushed herb and a hint of ginger. A soft mousse provides the backdrop. Cecchi 2017 La Mora (Morellino di Scansano). Cecchi 2013 La Mora Riserva (Morellino di Terlato Wines International. —K.O. 89 This opens with aromas of mature black- 88 Scansano). This has subtle aromas sug- abv: 11% Price: $27 skinned berry and Mediterranean brush while the gesting green bell pepper and cassis. On the dense, round easygoing palate offers juicy morello cherry, medium-bodied palate, close-grained tannins offset black raspberry and a hint of baking spice. Supple dried Marasca cherry, grilled pepper and clove before TUSCANY tannins offer lithe support. Drink soon. Terlato a rather dusty finish. Terlato Wines International. Wines International. —K.O. —K.O. MORELLINO DI SCANSANO abv: 13% Price: $17 abv: 14% Price: $25

Fattoria Le Pupille 2015 Riserva (Morellino Erik Banti 2016 Spineto (Morellino di Scan- Erik Banti 2017 Spineto (Morellino di Scan- 92 di Scansano). Aromas of rose, iris, wild 89 sano). Enticing scents of underbrush, wild 88 sano). This opens with aromas of dark- berry, truffle and a whiff of game all take shape berry, rose, iris and a whiff of tilled soil all come skinned fruit, wild berry and a whiff of baking spice. on this earthy refined red. Smooth and savory, the together on this fragrant red, made with organically The ripe savory palate reflects the nose, doling out succulent palate delivers crushed raspberry, fleshy farmed grapes. Full bodied and rather lively, the fleshy Marasca cherry, black berry and ground pep- Marasca cherry and baking spice framed in elegant, palate offers ripe black cherry, raspberry jam and per set against dusty, rather drying tannins. Drink fine-grained tannins. Drink through 2023. Ethica baking spice. Lithe, easygoing tannins provide light soon. Ideal Wine and Spirits. —K.O. Wines. —K.O. support while bright acidity gives it a tangy close. abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Drink through 2020. Ideal Wine and Spirits. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Fattoria di Magliano 2015 Heba (Morellino di Erik Banti 2016 Ciabatta (Morellino di Scan- 88 Scansano). This easygoing red offers a pot- 91 sano). Delicate aromas of truffle, wild berry, Morisfarms 2015 Riserva (Morellino di Scan- pourri of red-berry, baking-spice and blue-flower violet and espresso lead the nose. The elegant palate 89 sano). The nose is initially shy but a few aromas. The savory straightforward palate offers delivers ripe morello cherry, raspberry compote and swirls of the glass release subdued aromas of ripe dried Marasca cherry, cranberry and ground clove star anise framed in lithe tannins. Ideal Wine and blackberry, scorched earth and a whiff of oak-driven alongside relaxed tannins. Drink sooner rather than Spirits. —K.O. spice. Reflecting the hot vintage, the palate is rather later to enjoy the fruit flavors. Opici Wines. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 evolved, offering dried cherry, prune, powdered sage abv: 13% Price: $20 and ground pepper alongside dusty tannins that Fattoria Le Pupille 2017 Morellino di Scan- leave a drying finish. David Bowler Wine. —K.O. Fattoria Mantellassi 2017 Mentore (Morel- 90 sano. Aromas of wild berry, blue flower, abv: 13.5% Price: $25 88 lino di Scansano). Ripe black-skinned fruit, roasted coffee bean and coconut lead the nose. On eucalyptus and Mediterranean scrub aromas shape the palate, dusty tannins offset dried black cherry, Roccapesta 2016 Roccapesta (Morellino the nose. The rounded straightforward palate doles star anise and espresso. Drink soon to capture the 89 di Scansano). Made predominantly with out fleshy Marasca cherry and licorice accompa- remaining fruit. Ethica Wines. —K.O. Sangiovese, this opens with fruity aromas of black- nied by dusty tannins. Drink through 2019. Deutsch abv: 13.5% Price: $22 skinned berry, mature plum and a whiff of baking Family Wine and Spirits. Best Buy. —K.O. spice. The dense rounded palate doles out black abv: 14.5% Price: $13 Grillesino 2017 Battiferro (Morellino di cherry, raspberry jam and a hint of clove alongside 90 Scansano). Fruity aromas of ripe wood- soft pliant tannins. Drink through 2022. Enotria Fattoria Mantellassi 2016 San Giuseppe land berry and red plum mingle with scents of blue Wine Import. —K.O. 88 (Morellino di Scansano). This opens with flower. Round and juicy, the savory supple palate abv: 14% Price: $28 aromas of dark-skinned berry, violet and a whiff offers succulent Marasca cherry, raspberry compote of exotic spice. On the easygoing palate, you’ll find and baking spice alongside lithe tannins. It doesn’t Roccapesta 2013 Castelia (Morellino di dried black cherry, toast and oak-driven spice along- have any complexity, but it is delicious. Drink 89 Scansano). Aromas of mature dark-skinned side polished tannins. Total Wine & More. —K.O. through 2019 to capture the succulent fruit. Liber berry, toast, culinary spice and a whiff of leather abv: 14% Price: $19 USA. —K.O. shape the nose. On the soft enveloping palate, sup- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 ple tannins accompany fleshy morello cherry, clove Fattoria Mantellassi 2013 Le Sentinelle and a hint of espresso. Drink through 2021. Enotria 88 Riserva (Morellino di Scansano). Aromas of La Selva 2015 Colli dell’Uccellina Riserva Wine Import. —K.O. ripe plum, dark culinary spice and a whiff of French 90 (Morellino di Scansano). A blend of 85% abv: 13.5% Price: $50 oak lead the nose. The medium-bodied palate deliv- Sangiovese and 15% , this has aromas of ers dried black cherry, mature blackberry and lico- baked plum, leather and a balsamic whiff of euca- Bruni 2017 Marteto (Morellino di Scansano). rice alongside dusty tannins. Deutsch Family Wine lyptus. Soft, juicy and full bodied, the palate offers 88 Woodland berry and grilled herb aromas lift and Spirits. —K.O. black cherry, prune and licorice alongside velvety out of the glass. Soft and juicy, the palate doles out abv: 13.5% Price: $27 tannins. It’s already hit its ideal drinking win- succulent morello cherry and clove wrapped up in dow so enjoy sooner rather than later. Omniwines rounded tannins. Drink through 2020. Vias Imports. Fattoria San Felo 2017 Morellino di Scan- Distribution.­ —K.O. Best Buy. —K.O. 88 sano. Aromas of wild berry and fragrant abv: 14.5% Price: $26 abv: 14% Price: $12 blue flower lead the nose. It’s juicy and easygoing, offering ripe black cherry and hints of baking spice Val delle Rose 2015 Poggio al Leone Riserva­ Castello Romitorio 2016 Tenuta Ghiaccio alongside soft tannins. Drink through 2020. Vino 90 (Morellino di Scansano). Aromas of scorched 88 Forte (Morellino di Scansano). A blend of Veritas. —K.O. earth, ripe plum, new leather and baking spice fill 85% Sangiovese and 15% Syrah, this has aro- abv: 13.5% Price: $35 the glass. The full-bodied accessible palate offers mas suggesting wild berry, charred earth and used dried black cherry, prune and licorice set against leather. The firm palate offers morello cherry, Fattoria San Felo 2016 Lampo (Morellino ground pepper and a hint of smoke alongside dusty 88 di Scansano). Aromas of wild berry, blue

WINEMAG.COM | 49

BUYINGGUIDE flower, roasted coffee bean and coconut lead the of clove. Supple tannins offer light support. Drink Grillesino 2015 Battiferro Riserva (Morellino nose. On the palate, dusty tannins offset dried black soon. Palm Bay International. —K.O. 87 di Scansano). Red-berry, underbrush, leather cherry, star anise and espresso. Drink soon to cap- abv: 14% Price: $16 and eucalyptus aromas waft out of the glass. On the ture the remaining fruit. Vino Veritas. —K.O. lean palate, fine-grained tannins accompany sour abv: 13.5% Price: $40 Roccapesta 2016 Ribeo (Morellino di Scan- cherry, pomegranate, powdered sage and roasted cof- 88 sano). Smooth and easygoing, this opens fee bean. It closes on an astringent note. Liber USA. La Selva 2017 Morellino di Scansano. Round with aromas of charred earth, toasted nut, grilled —K.O. 88 and fruity, this easygoing red, made with herb and pressed violet. The polished easy-drinking abv: 13.5% Price: $25 organically farmed grapes, opens with aromas sug- palate evokes fleshy red cherry and baking spice set gesting ripe black-skinned berry, tilled earth and against supple tannins. Drink soon. Enotria Wine Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi 2014 Pietraregia culinary spice. The dense soft palate doles out Import. —K.O. 87 dell’Ammiraglia Riserva (Morellino di Scan­ black-cherry jam, clove and a hint of star anise. abv: 14% Price: $22 sano). Aromas of French oak, cassis and coconut lead Supple tannins lend light support. Drink through the nose. The palate is rather lean in terms of fruit 2019 to capture the succulent fruit. Omniwines Santa Lucia 2015 Tore del Moro Riserva richness, offering suggestions of raw sour cherry, Distribution. —K.O. 88 (­Morellino di Scansano). Underbrush, pomegranate, powdered sage and oak-driven spice abv: 14% Price: $18 pressed iris and baked plum aromas come together alongside bracing acidity. Shaw-Ross International on this. It’s round and soft, offering flavors of prune, Importers. —K.O. Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi 2016 Santa Maria dried cherry and hints of coffee and clove while abv: 13.5% Price: $66 88 (Morellino di Scansano). Red-berry, forest- round pliant tannins give light support. Drink soon. floor and Mediterranean brush aromas lift out of the Fantastik Imports. —K.O. Poggio al Lupo 2017 Morellino di Scan­sano. glass. The juicy enjoyable palate doles out succulent abv: 14% Price: $45 87 Red berry, violet and a whiff of baking Marasca cherry, raspberry and star anise alongside spice shape the nose. The straightforward palate supple tannins. Enjoy through 2019. Shaw-Ross Val delle Rose 2016 Morellino di Scansano. offers ripe Marasca cherry, clove and ground pep- ­International Importers. —K.O. 88 Subtle aromas evoking underbrush, toasted per alongside pliant tannins. Drink soon. Kobrand. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 oak and exotic spice come together on this medium- —K.O. bodied red along with whiffs of mature black-skinned abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Morisfarms 2017 Morellino di Scansano. fruit. On the palate, fine-grained tannins offset dried 88 Red-plum, wild-berry, eucalyptus and Med- cherry, roasted coffee bean and star anise. Terlato Poggio Maestrino e Spiaggiole 2017 Spiag- iterranean scrub aromas lead the nose. The easy­ Wines International. —K.O. 87 giole (Morellino di Scansano). Made entirely going palate offers crushed raspberry, black cherry abv: 13.5% Price: $NA with Sangiovese, this opens with aromas of scorched and ground pepper set against supple tannins. David earth, underbrush, leather and wild berry. On the Bowler Wine. —K.O. Val di Toro 2016 Reviresco (Morellino di palate, dusty drying tannins accompany dried black abv: 13.5% Price: $15 88 Scansano). Scorched earth, eucalyptus, cherry, powdered aromatic herb and ground clove. wild berry and a whiff of blue flower emerge from Drink soon. Wine Icons. —K.O. Podere 414 2016 Morellino di Scansano. Aro- the glass. The straightforward palate evokes ripe abv: 14% Price: $16 88 mas of ripe black-skinned berry, French oak morello cherry, baking spice and star anise framed and exotic spice lead the nose. Reflecting the aro- in lithe tannins. Bevi Wine. —K.O. Santa Lucia 2016 Tore del Moro (Morellino di mas, the palate offers dried cherry, cassis, ground abv: 13.5% Price: $21 87 Scansano). Aromas of baked plum, roasted pepper and oak-driven spice alongside firm, close- coffee bean, grilled herb and French oak lead the grained tannins that clench the somewhat astrin- Val di Toro 2015 Reviresco Riserva (Morel- way. Reflecting the nose, the palate offers prune, gent finish. Vision Wine Brands. —K.O. 88 lino di Scansano). Truffle, forest floor, grilled dried cherry, grilled sage and espresso alongside abv: 14% Price: $20 herb and a whiff of mature plum lead the nose. The close-grained but rather fleeting tannins that leave solid juicy palate presents dried Marasca cherry, a drying finish. Fantastik Imports. —K.O. Poggio Maestrino e Spiaggiole 2016 Poggio ripe cranberry and hints of baking spice framed in abv: 14.5% Price: $25 88 Maestrino Riserva (Morellino di Scansano). rounded fine-grained tannins that leave a drying Aromas of ripe woodland berry, eucalyptus, violet close. Bevi Wine. —K.O. Suberli 2015 Riserva (Morellino di Scansano). and Mediterranean scrub lead the way. The tight lin- abv: 14.5% Price: $27 87 This earthy red opens with aromas of sun- ear palate offers mature Marasca cherry, dried sage baked soil, espresso, used leather and a whiff of and star anise framed in dusty, rather astringent Conte Ferdinando Guicciardini 2015 Massi di barnyard. Reflecting the nose, the lean firm palate tannins that leave a drying finish. Wine Icons. —K.O. 87 Mandorlaia Riserva (Morellino di Scansano). evokes prune, star anise and a gamy note alongside abv: 14% Price: $25 This opens with aromas of steeped prune, truffle grainy tannins that leave a somewhat astringent and a whiff of graphite. Reflecting the nose, the firm ­finish. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —K.O. Provveditore 2017 Irio (Morellino di Scan­ lean palate offers dried cherry, espresso and licorice. abv: 14% Price: $NA 88 sano). Tilled soil, baking-spice and black- You’ll also notice the heat of evident alcohol. It’s berry aromas take center stage on this young red already evolved so drink sooner rather than later to Terre di Talamo 2015 Tempo Riserva (Morel- along with a whiff of charcuterie. The easy-drinking capture the remaining fruit. The Barterhouse. —K.O. 87 lino di Scansano). Underbrush, pressed iris medium-bodied palate offers Marasca cherry, clove abv: 14.5% Price: $32 and baked plum aromas come together on this. and a hint of white pepper alongside soft pliant tan- It’s round and soft, offering flavors of prune, dried nins. Drink through 2019. L.A. Dick Imports. —K.O. Doga delle Clavule 2015 Morellino di Scan- cherry and hints of coffee and clove while round pli- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 87 sano. Aromas of scorched soil, grilled herb, ant tannins give light support. Drink now. Michel- celery and wild berry lead the way. The straight­ angelo Selections. —K.O. Rocca delle Macìe 2017 Campo Maccione forward palate offers dried cherry, pomegranate and abv: 14% Price: $NA 88 (Morellino di Scansano). Aromas of wild red roasted coffee bean alongside pliant tannins. Drink berry, star anise and wild herb follow over to the sooner rather than later to enjoy the remaining fruit. Vignaioli del Morellino di Scansano 2017 easygoing palate along with dried cherry and a hint Vineyard Brands. —K.O. 87 ­Vigna Benefizio (Morellino di Scansano). abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Easygoing and savory, this juicy red doles out ripe Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry and cinnamon

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 flavors. Soft round tannins lend light support. Drink Santa Lucia 2017 A Luciano (Morellino di VINO NOBILE now. Nicola Biscardo Selections. —K.O. 86 Scansano). Soft and easy drinking, this abv: 14% Price: $17 opens with aromas of dark berry and white pepper. DI The round palate offers juicy Marasca cherry and Vignaioli del Morellino di Scansano 2015 clove alongside pliant tannins. Drink now. Fantastik Salcheto 2015 Vecchie Viti del Salco (Vino 87 ­Sicomoro Riserva (Morellino di Scansano). Imports. —K.O. 96 Nobile di Montepulciano). Perfumed berry, This offers aromas of pressed violet, berry and a whiff abv: 14% Price: $20 tilled earth, pressed rose, new leather, cake spice of dark spice. Mirroring the nose, the straightforward and a balsamic note are just some of the aromas palate evokes dried black cherry, star anise and pow- Suberli 2016 Morellino di Scansano. This you’ll find on this fragrant, delicious red. It’s linear, dered sage alongside dusty grainy tannins that leave a 86 straightforward red has earthy aromas of structured and loaded with finesse, delivering ripe drying finish. Nicola Biscardo Selections. —K.O. ripe wild berry, prune, used leather and a whiff of Marasca cherry, raspberry compote, licorice and abv: 14.5% Price: $25 underbrush. The rounded palate offers dried cherry, tobacco. Taut refined tannins and fresh acidity pro- clove and a hint of game alongside fleeting tannins. vide an age-worthy framework. Drink 2022–2035. Villa Poggio Salvi 2016 Vaio (Morellino di You’ll also note a rather bitter note evoking pow- Massanois Imports. Cellar Selection. —K.O. 87 Scansano). This opens with aromas evoking dered sage on the close. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $85 camphor, grilled herb, ripe berry and a whiff of cel- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA lar floor. The taut palate offers star anise, eucalyp- Boscarelli 2015 Costa Grande (Vino Nobile di tus and dried cherry alongside taut dusty tannins Terre di Talamo 2016 Tempo (Morellino di 95 Montepulciano). Made entirely with San- that leave a firm drying finish. FX Magner Selection. 86 Scansano). Scorched earth, truffle, sea- giovese, this offers enticing aromas of exotic spice, —K.O. breeze and overripe berry aromas lead the nose ripe black-skinned fruit, tilled soil, French oak and a abv: 14% Price: $18 along with whiffs of barnyard. Reflecting the nose, whiff of leather. The full-bodied palate boasts struc- the soft palate offers fleshy black cherry and gamy ture, elegance and tension, delivering juicy wild Viticcio 2015 Morellino di Scansano. This notes alongside hints of baking spice. Rounded but cherry, raspberry, star anise and espresso set against 87 has subdued aromas evoking mature black- rather dusty tannins provide easygoing support. It’s firm fine-grained tannins. Drink 2022–2030. skinned fruit, dark spice and a whiff of camphor. definitely earthy, with a rustic charm. Michelangelo ­Empson USA Ltd. Cellar Selection. —K.O. Tight and restrained, the firm palate offers dried Selections. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $95 cherry, espresso and powdered sage set against abv: 14% Price: $20 assertive close-grained tannins that clench the fin- Boscarelli 2014 Sotto Casa Riserva (Vino ish. Give the tannins another year or two then drink Vignaioli del Morellino di Scansano 2016 94 Nobile di Montepulciano). Enticing scents to capture the remaining fruit. Serendipity Wines. 86 Roggiano (Morellino di Scansano). Wild- of baking spice, pressed violet and wild berry —K.O. berry, grilled herb and clove aromas lead the way. take center stage on this fragrant elegant red. The abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Bright and juicy, the simple palate offers ripe smooth savory palate doles out juicy black cherry, morello cherry, clove and star anise alongside dusty ripe blackberry and licorice alongside polished fine- Conte Ferdinando Guicciardini 2016 Massi di rather fleeting tannins. Nicola Biscardo Selections. grained tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. 86 Mandorlaia (Morellino di Scansano). Stewed —K.O. Drink through 2026. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. prune, withered violet and culinary-spice aromas abv: 13.5% Price: $14 abv: 14% Price: $77 follow over to the firm palate along with dried cherry, a green note of powdered sage and evident alcohol. Lionello Marchesi 2015 Poggio alle Sughere La Braccesca 2015 Maggiarino (Vino Nobile Solid, dusty tannins leave a drying astringent finish. 85 (Morellino di Scansano). This has subdued 94 di Montepulciano). Ripe plum, wild berry, The Barterhouse. —K.O. aromas suggesting black-skinned fruit, leather and new leather and exotic spice mingle with a whiff of abv: 14.5% Price: $22 Mediterranean scrub. The simple palate is evolved, French oak. Young, taut and elegantly structured, evoking dried Marasca cherry and a hint of clove the palate offers juicy Marasca cherry, cassis, orange Poggio Salvi 2016 I Butteri (Morellino di alongside dusty fleeting tannins. It closes on an zest, star anise and clove framed in tightly knit fine- 86 Scansano). Delicate scents evoking wild ­astringent note reminiscent of powdered sage. —K.O. grained tannins. Give it time to fully come around berry and blue flower waft out of the glass. It’s simple abv: 14.5% Price: $NA and you’ll be rewarded with even more complex- but well made, offering red cherry, prune and a hint ity. Drink 2023–2030. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. of clove alongside soft pliant tannins. Drink now. Mocali 2016 Morellino di Scansano. Under- Cellar­ Selection. —K.O. Panebianco. —K.O. 85 brush, ripe plum and toasted aromas lead abv: 14.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $15 the way. The simple fleeting palate offers sugges- tions of dried cherry and a hint of baking spice Salcheto 2015 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Provveditore 2016 Morellino di Scansano. alongside dusty fleeting tannins and lively acidity. 94 Made with organically cultivated Sangio- 86 This has aromas of toasted oak, mocha and Skurnik Wines, Inc. —K.O. vese, this fragrant elegant red opens with enticing a whiff of smoke. The firm palate is rather lean in abv: 13.5% Price: $15 scents of underbrush, sunbaked earth, wild berry, terms of fruit richness, offering dried cherry, toast violet, crushed mint and a balsamic whiff of cam- and oak-driven spice alongside assertive tannins that Vignaioli del Morellino di Scansano 2015 phor. Smooth and savory, the linear palate has sur- leave a drying finish. You’ll also notice a green note of 85 Roggiano Riserva (Morellino di Scansano). prising vibrancy for such a hot vintage, delivering powdered sage on the close. L.A. Dick Imports. —K.O. Celery, minestrone soup and scorched earth aromas juicy Marasca cherry, strawberry compote, star abv: 14% Price: $30 mingle with whiffs of used leather. The palate offers anise and white pepper. Elegant fine-grained tan- dried black cherry, ground pepper and game along- nins lend polished support while a coffee note lin- Provveditore 2015 Primo Riserva (Morellino side dusty fleeting tannins that leave an abrupt, gers on the close. Drink through 2025. Massanois 86 di Scansano). Subdued aromas of charred drying close. Nicola Biscardo Selections. —K.O. Imports. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. earth, underbrush and toasted hazelnut slowly form abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $24 the nose. The lean palate is rather evolved, offer- ing suggestions of dried cherry, roasted coffee bean, Salcheto 2013 Salco (Vino Nobile di Monte­ clove and grilled sage alongside loose-knit fleeting 94 pulciano). Aromas of mature black-skinned tannins. —K.O. fruit, culinary spice, tobacco, new leather and abv: 14% Price: $NA an earthy whiff of tilled soil emerge in the glass.

WINEMAG.COM | 51

BUYINGGUIDE

­Elegantly structured, the savory linear palate deliv- berry and dark-spice aromas meld together in the LoCascio Selections–The Winebow Group. Editors’ ers ripe Marasca cherry, black raspberry, star anise glass. The rounded full-bodied palate doles out Choice. —K.O. and dried botanical herb. Polished fine-grained layers of fleshy black cherry, ripe plum, oak-driven abv: 13.5% Price: $37 tannins lend lithe support while fresh acidity pro- spice and espresso alongside polished well-inte- vides plenty of verve. Drink 2021–2033. Massanois grated tannins. It closes on a star anise note. Drink Trerose 2013 Simposio (Vino Nobile di ­Imports. Cellar Selection. —K.O. through 2025. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —K.O. 92 Montepulciano).­ Baked plum, exotic spice, abv: 14% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $32 leather and a whiff of French oak mingle with a suggestion of fragrant blue flower. The firm elegant Avignonesi 2015 Progetto di Sopra (Vino Dei 2015 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). palate delivers Marasca cherry, raspberry compote, 93 Nobile di Montepulciano). Alluring aromas 92 Soft and smooth, this polished red offers licorice and baking spice before a coffee finish. Taut of black-skinned berry, forest floor, oak and exotic aromas of wild berry, red plum and baking spice. fine-grained tannins provide structure while fresh spice shape the nose. On the elegantly structured, Reflecting the nose, the juicy palate doles out fleshy acidity keeps it balanced. Drink 2021–2033. Taub focused palate, polished fine-grained tannins sup- black cherry, ripe blackberry and star anise. It’s Family Selections. Cellar Selection. —K.O. port dried black cherry, raspberry compote, clove already accessible, with supple tannins but will abv: 14.5% Price: $70 and cinnamon while a hint of espresso lingers on offer fine drinking for the next several years. Drink the close. It’s already tempting, but give it a few through 2023. ­de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. Ambrogio e Giovanni Folonari 2015 Torcalvano more years to develop even more complexity. Drink abv: NA Price: $35 91 (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Wild-berry, 2021–2030. Tabaccaia USA. Cellar Selection. new leather, truffle and clove aromas take center —K.O. Dei 2013 Bossona Riserva (Vino Nobile di stage. Smooth and savory, the linear palate shows abv: 14.5% Price: $74 92 Montepulciano). Aromas of French oak, dried Marasca cherry, mature plum and licorice set coconut, exotic spice and mature black-skinned against taut refined tannins. Drink through 2025. Poliziano 2015 La Caggiole (Vino Nobile di fruit shape the nose along with a whiff of menthol. Kobrand. —K.O. 93 Montepulciano). Combining structure and The enveloping palate shows flair and finesse, offer- abv: 13.5% Price: $26 finesse, this offers aromas of spiced plum, under- ing dried black cherry, prune steeped in spirits, brush, French oak and pipe tobacco. It’s full bodied cinnamon and licorice set against firm fine-grained Avignonesi 2015 Vino Nobile di Montepul­ and smooth but also has tension, evoking mature tannins. An espresso note lingers on the close. 91 ciano. Aromas of baking spice, mature plum black cherry, prune, mocha, licorice and clove ­de ­Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. and crushed aromatic herb lift out of the glass. framed in firm close-grained tannins. It closes on abv: 15% Price: $65 Elegant and linear, the taut medium-bodied palate a coffee-bean note. Drink 2023–2030. Dalla Terra offers dried cherry, star anise and a hint of espresso Winery Direct. Cellar Selection. —K.O. Il Conventino 2015 Vino Nobile di Montepul- alongside youthfully austere fine-grained tannins. abv: 15% Price: $100 92 ciano. Balsamic aromas of eucalyptus mingle Drink 2021–2027. Tabaccaia USA. —K.O. with spiced plum, new leather and underbrush. On abv: 14% Price: $NA Tenuta Valdipiatta 2016 Vigna d’Alfiero the rounded, enveloping palate, notes of star anise, 93 (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). A pure clove and roasted coffee bean accent dried cherry Icario 2015 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. expression of Sangiovese, this has aromas of ripe marinated in spirits while fine-grained tannins pro- 91 Aromas of forest floor, roasted coffee bean, red berry, violet, star anise and a whiff of crushed vide the framework. Vignaioli Selection. —K.O. new leather and camphor meld with violet and herb. Tight and focused, the youthfully austere abv: 14% Price: $30 wild berry. Soft and full bodied, the palate provides vibrant palate evokes Marasca cherry, pomegranate, cherry marinated in spirits, prune, espresso and licorice and ground clove while firm fine-grained Romeo 2015 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. licorice alongside velvety tannins. Drink through tannins provide a polished backbone. Fresh acidity 92 Mature plum and baking-spice aromas min- 2022. Wine Universe Corp. —K.O. lends balance. Drink 2021–2031. Leonardo LoCas- gle with fragrant purple flowers, new leather and a abv: 14.5% Price: $25 cio Selections–The­ Winebow Group. Cellar Selec- whiff of tilled soil. On the earthy savory palate, taut tion. —K.O. fine-grained tannins underscore fleshy Marasca Villa S. Anna 2015 Poldo (Vino Nobile di Monte­ abv: 13.5% Price: $50 cherry, crushed raspberry, licorice, dried aromatic 91 pulciano). Aromas of ripe black-skinned fruit, herb and a hint of game. Drink 2020–2027. Due baking spice, tilled soil, eucalyptus and a whiff of Trerose 2016 Vigna Santa Caterina (Vino Fratelli Imports. —K.O. black olive fill the glass. The palate is linear, lean 93 Nobile di Montepulciano). Fragrant and abv: 14% Price: $34 and elegant, offering dried morello cherry, raspberry, refined, this elegant red offers enticing scents of crushed herb and star anise alongside a gamy note. woodland berry, pressed rose, violet and culinary Romeo 2012 Lipitiresco (Vino Nobile di Monte­ Taut close-grained tannins leave a firm finish. Drink spice. The polished focused palate delivers ripe 92 pulciano). Aromas of chocolate, truffle, toast 2020–2027. Rosenthal Wine Merchant. —K.O. Marasca cherry, raspberry compote, star anise and and culinary spice form the nose along with a whiff of abv: 13.5% Price: $50 clove set against precise fine-grained tannins. Drink leather. The firm polished palate evokes black cherry 2020–2030. Taub Family Selections. Editors’ extract, prune, licorice and orange slice alongside Bindella 2015 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Choice. —K.O. fine-grained tannins that envelope the finish. Due 90 Aromas of exotic spice, crushed herb, men- abv: 14% Price: $40 Fratelli Imports. —K.O. thol and rose petal form the nose. The palate is lean, abv: 14% Price: $45 linear but elegant, offering dried cherry, sage and Boscarelli 2015 Il Nocio (Vino Nobile di Monte­ orange zest while licorice and espresso notes pro- 92 pulciano). Initially rather shy, this eventu- Tenuta Valdipiatta 2016 Vino Nobile di vide backup. Taut fine-grained tannins lend firm ally offers aromas of mature black-skinned fruit, 92 Montepulciano.­ Made with Sangiovese support. Drink 2022–2028. Frederick Wildman & pipe tobacco and a whiff of new leather. The envel- and 5% Canaiolo Nero, this has enticing aromas Sons, Ltd. —K.O. oping palate evokes dried cherry, prune, clove and a of wild berry, fragrant purple flower, exotic spice abv: 14% Price: $26 note of star anise alongside polished tannins. Drink and a whiff of new leather. It’s bright and smooth, through 2023. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. offering juicy wild cherry, ripe strawberry and bak- Boscarelli 2015 Vino Nobile di Montepul- abv: 14% Price: $113 ing spice while taut fine-grained tannins and fresh 90 ciano. Subtle aromas of ripe forest berry, acidity lend balance. Drink 2020–2028. Leonardo scorched earth, exotic spice and a balsamic whiff Canneto 2015 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. of camphor lead the nose. The linear palate offers 92 Crushed mint, toasted oak, camphor, wild- dried black cherry, ground pepper and a hint of

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 grilled herb alongside fine-grained tannins. Empson accessible but will also offer several years of enjoy- Fassati 2015 Gersemi (Vino Nobile di Monte­ USA Ltd. —K.O. ment. Drink through 2024. Wooden Ships. —K.O. 89 pulciano). Aromas recalling scorched forest abv: 14% Price: $40 abv: 14% Price: $60 floor, toast, leather and grilled herb form the nose. On the medium-bodied palate, polished pliant tan- del Giusto 2015 San Claudio II (Vino Montemercurio 2012 Messaggero (Vino nins accompany Marasca cherry, roasted coffee 90 Nobile di Montepulciano). Forest floor, ripe 90 ­Nobile di Montepulciano). Underbrush, bean and a hint of tobacco. Drink through 2025. black plum, baking spice and a balsamic note form tobacco-leaf, sunbaked soil and baked plum aro- Maverick Selections. —K.O. the nose. The brooding palate offers dried cherry, mas form the nose. The rounded full-bodied pal- abv: 14% Price: $40 prune, sandalwood and licorice framed in firm fine- ate offers prune, mature black cherry and licorice grained tannins. Drink 2022–2027. H. Mercer Wine alongside supple fine-grained tannins. Drink sooner Fattoria della Talosa 2014 Riserva (Vino & Spirit Imports. —K.O. rather than later to capture the brooding fruit. 89 Nobile di Montepulciano). Aromas of tilled abv: 14.5% Price: $23 Golden Vines. —K.O. soil, coconut, French oak and mature plum shape abv: 14.5% Price: $35 the nose. It’s taut, linear and lean, evoking dried Casale Daviddi 2015 Vino Nobile di Monte­ cherry, prune, licorice and crushed thyme alongside 90 pulciano. Here’s a soulful blend of Sangio- Nottola 2015 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. a roasted coffee-bean note. Drying grainy tannins vese mixed with 10% Canaiolo and Mammolo that 90 Plum, cassis, mocha, underbrush and Asian grip the assertive finish. Curious Cork Imports LLC. offers aromas of underbrush, used leather, sunbaked spice aromas mingle with a whiff of eucalyptus. The —K.O. earth, prune and a whiff of mocha. Reflecting the taut full-bodied palate shows dried cherry, black abv: 14.5% Price: $43 nose, the earthy palate evokes dried cherry, prune, currant, star anise, clove and espresso framed in truffle, cake spice and tobacco. The buffed fine- tightly wound, grainy tannins. Drink 2021–2028. Gattavecchi 2015 Riserva dei Padri Serviti grained tannins creep up on you, leaving a rather Francoli USA. —K.O. 89 (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Earthy aro- dusty drying finish. Vinarium Inc. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $26 mas of scorched soil, underbrush, leather, spiced abv: 14% Price: $50 prune and a whiff of toasted nut follow over to the Poggio alla Sala 2015 Riserva (Vino Nobile firm palate along with dried cherry and a hint of Gattavecchi 2015 Vino Nobile di Montepul­ 90 di Montepulciano). French oak, prune, new powdered sage. Dusty tannins leave a drying finish. 90 ciano. This offers aromas of ripe black leather and dark culinary-spice aromas set the tone. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —K.O. plum, blue flower and exotic spice. The round juicy It’s taut, linear and focused, offering dried cherry, abv: 14% Price: $27 palate shows mature black cherry, prune and bak- star anise, tobacco and espresso set against a back- ing spice alongside supple fine-grained tannins. It’s bone of firm close-grained tannins that grip the Gracciano della Seta 2015 Riserva (Vino already accessible so drink over the next few years ­finish. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —K.O. 89 Nobile di Montepulciano). Made with 95% to enjoy the fruit flavors. Deutsch Family Wine and abv: 14% Price: $34 Sangiovese and 5% Merlot, this opens with aromas Spirits. —K.O. reminiscent of underbrush, chopped aromatic herb, abv: 14% Price: $25 Bindella 2013 Vallocaia Riserva (Vino Nobile leather and a whiff of spiced plum. The palate is on 89 di Montepulciano). Mocha, coconut, French the lean side, offering dried cherry, prune, sage and Le Battistelle 2013 Rùbeo (Vino Nobile di oak and spiced plum aromas pave the way. The pol- espresso alongside tightly woven close-grained tan- 90 Montepulciano). Aromas of leather, exotic ished palate offers toast, espresso, prune, sage and nins that leave a somewhat firm astringent finish. spice, stewed prune and a whiff of incense follow licorice while fine-grained tannins provide the taut Ideal Wine and Spirits. —K.O. through to the palate along with dried cherry, san- framework. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $NA dalwood and cinnamon. Fine-grained tannins pro- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 vide linear support and a rather firm drying finish. Icario 2012 Vitaroccia Riserva (Vino Nobile di Harvest Moon Estate Winery. —K.O. Carpineto 2015 Riserva (Vino Nobile di 89 Montepulciano). Underbrush, baked plum, abv: 14% Price: $NA 89 Montepulciano).­ This opens with aromas new leather, botanical herb and a whiff of cam- evoking stewed plum, leather, baking spice and a phor slowly appear on this. The dense palate offers Le Bèrne 2015 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. whiff of game. The linear, rather lean palate offers prune, mocha and licorice alongside an espresso 90 Spiced plum, star anise, menthol and sun- dried cherry, clove, thyme and truffle alongside note. Close-grained tannins give it structure and baked forest-floor aromas lead the nose. It’s big and dusty close-grained tannins. Opici Wines. —K.O. grip the finish. Drink 2020–2027. Wine Universe chewy, with dried cherry, prune extract, licorice and abv: 13.5% Price: $35 Corp. —K.O. tobacco set against fine-grained tannins. You’ll also abv: 14.5% Price: $33 detect the warmth of evident alcohol on the finish. Cecchi 2015 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Drink sooner rather than later. Siena Imports. —K.O. 89 Aromas of wild berry, pressed violet, new Le Bertille 2013 Riserva (Vino Nobile di Monte­ abv: 15% Price: $25 leather and a whiff of pipe tobacco form the nose. 89 pulciano). Black-skinned fruit, grilled herb, The austere palate is lean and linear, offering dried mocha and toasted oak aromas shape the nose. Lunadoro 2015 Pagliareto (Vino Nobile di cherry, prune and ground clove set against taut, The polished linear palate offers mature plum, red 90 Montepulciano). Leather, graphite, crushed close-grained tannins. Terlato Wines International. cherry, roasted coffee bean and clove alongside herb and spiced plum aromas lead the nose. The —K.O. close-grained tannins that grip the close. Give the aromas follow over to the palate along with dried abv: NA Price: $21 tannins a few years to unwind then drink. Singular cherry, oak and star anise while polished tannins Selections. —K.O. lend support. Drink through 2025. Wooden Ships. De’ Ricci Cantine Storiche 2015 Soraldo abv: 13.5% Price: $33 —K.O. 89 (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Plum-cake, abv: 14% Price: $40 French oak, rose and leather aromas lift out of the Montemercurio 2011 Damo (Vino Nobile di glass. The oak aroma carries over to the palate, 89 Montepulciano). This opens with aromas of Lunadoro 2014 Quercione Riserva (Vino along with dried cherry, licorice and espresso. It’s scorched earth, leather, forest floor and exotic spice. 90 Nobile di Montepulciano). Aromas of oak, rather austere, with tight close-grained tannins that Reflecting the heat of the scorching vintage, the spiced plum, forest floor, rose and a whiff of new grip the finish. —K.O. robust evolved palate presents dried cherry, prune leather appear in the glass. The elegant polished pal- abv: 14% Price: $45 marinated in spirits and licorice alongside the heat ate offers tart cherry, pomegranate, star anise and of evident alcohol while dusty tannins leave a dry- espresso accompanied by lithe tannins. It’s already

WINEMAG.COM | 53

BUYINGGUIDE ing finish. Drink sooner rather than later. Golden a hint of clove alongside grainy tannins that leave a a hint of espresso alongside dusty but not very per- Vines. —K.O. drying finish. Vias Imports. —K.O. sistent tannins that still leave a drying finish. Votto abv: 14.5% Price: $80 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Vines Importing. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $43 Poggio alla Sala 2015 Vino Nobile di Monte­ Le Bertille 2015 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. 89 pulciano. Pressed rose, new leather, botani- 88 Toasted oak, underbrush, stewed plum and Lombardo 2015 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. cal herb and plum-cake aromas shape the nose. The scorched earth aromas form the nose. Reflecting the 87 This opens with aromas of French oak, coco- austere medium-bodied palate is on the lean side, nose, the lean linear palate offers prune, clove and nut and spiced plum. It’s full bodied but lean, offer- offering dried cherry, prune, licorice and a hint of roasted coffee bean alongside close-grained tan- ing prune, oak-driven spice, thyme and espresso but espresso set against close-grained tannins that grip nins that leave a drying finish. Singular Selections. it’s shy on fruit richness. Grainy tannins leave an the finish. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —K.O. —K.O. astringent finish. Eagle Eye Brands. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $27 abv: 14.5% Price: $20

Poggio alla Sala 2015 Parceto (Vino Nobile di Talosa 2015 Alboreto (Vino Nobile di Mon- Tenuta Santavenere 2015 Vino Nobile di 89 Montepulciano). French oak, mature plum, 88 tepulciano). Aromas of French oak, dried 87 Montepulciano.­ Aromas of mature black- roasted coffee-bean and coconut aromas form the thyme and a whiff of cellar floor emerge in the glass. skinned fruit, clove and crushed herb waft out of nose. The aromas carry over to the firm austere pal- The palate is lean and linear, offering incense, star the glass. The palate is lean and assertive, offering ate along with prune, vanilla and a hint of mocha. anise, prune and roasted coffee bean, plus grainy roasted coffee bean, star anise and a green note of Tightly knit, close-grained tannins leave a drying tannins that leave a drying finish. C­urious Cork powdered sage alongside just a hint of raw sour finish. Give the tannins another few years to unwind Imports LLC. —K.O. cherry. Grainy tannins leave an astringent finish. then drink to capture the remaining fruit. Deutsch abv: 14% Price: $33 Wineco Importing. —K.O. Family Wine and Spirits. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $45 abv: 14% Price: $55 Tenute del Cerro 2015 Vino Nobile di Monte­ 88 pulciano. This has rather subdued aromas Villa S. Anna 2015 Vino Nobile di Monte­ Talosa 2015 Filai Lunghi (Vino Nobile di Mon- of leather, mocha, wild berry and a whiff of baking 87 pulciano. Wild-berry, underbrush, menthol 89 tepulciano). This opens with aromas evok- spice. The palate is on the lean side, offering dried and used leather aromas lead the nose. Showing the ing baked plum, exotic spice, new leather and coco- cherry and star anise alongside lithe tannins. A cof- heat of the vintage, the palate is rather evolved, sug- nut. The taut palate offers French oak, prune, dried fee-bean note marks the close. Drink through 2022. gesting dried cherry, prune, clove and a hint of game cherry, espresso and licorice framed in tight close- Vias Imports. —K.O. alongside soft, rather fleeting tannins. It closes on grained tannins that give it a firm drying f­inish. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 a note of roasted coffee bean. Drink sooner rather ­Curious Cork Imports LLC. —K.O. than later. Rosenthal Wine Merchant. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $70 Triacca 2015 Santavenere Poderuccio (Vino abv: 13.5% Price: $25 88 Nobile di Montepulciano). A blend of 85% Tenute del Cerro 2014 Antica Chiusina (Vino Sangiovese and 15% Merlot, this has aromas of Barbanera 2015 Vino Nobile di Monte­ 89 Nobile di Montepulciano). Packaged in an French oak, underbrush and spiced plum. The 86 pulciano. This has a shy nose that eventu- exceedingly heavy bottle, this has delicate aromas lean palate is rather austere, offering dried cherry, ally reveals subtle aromas of berry, blue flower and evoking prune, exotic spice and moist soil. The lin- prune, licorice and a note of rusty iron set against a whiff resin. The simple easygoing palate offers ear palate is rather lean and ethereal, offering dried taut close-grained tannins. Give the tannins a few juicy black cherry and a hint of spice alongside soft cherry, licorice and espresso. Close-grained tannins years to unwind then drink to capture the remain- ­tannins. Drink soon. Pazzione Imports. —K.O. leave a somewhat drying finish. Vias Imports. —K.O. ing fruit flavors. Wineco Importing. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $24 abv: 14% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $60 Castellani 2015 Vino Nobile di Montepul- Ventisei 2015 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Cantina del Giusto 2013 San Claudio II Riserva 86 ciano. This has aromas of stewed prune, 89 This has a shy nose that eventually reveals 87 (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). A blend spearmint and a whiff of scorched earth. The lively subdued aromas of cassis, wild herb and oak-driven of Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Mammolo, this offers if rather rustic, simple palate offers raisin and spice. Polished and straightforward, the medium- aromas suggesting spiced plum, leather, grilled herb licorice alongside dusty tannins. Monsieur Touton bodied palate is on the lean side, suggesting dried and a whiff of toasted oak. The accessible linear ­Selection Ltd. —K.O. morello cherry, ground pepper, crushed sage and a palate presents dried cherry, oak-driven spice and abv: 13.5% Price: $19 hint of coffee bean alongside fine-grained tannins spearmint alongside close-grained if somewhat that leave a drying finish. Voliovino. —K.O. fleeting tannins that leave a drying finish. H. Mercer Fassati 2015 Pasiteo (Vino Nobile di Monte­ abv: 14% Price: $24 Wine & Spirit Imports. —K.O. 86 pulciano). Red-berry, underbrush and light abv: 14% Price: $32 baking-spice aromas guide the nose. The straight- De’ Ricci Cantine Storiche 2015 Vino Nobile di forward, rather lean palate shows dried cherry, 88 Montepulciano. Wild-berry, tobacco, clove Casale Daviddi 2013 Riserva (Vino Nobile di clove and a hint of crushed sage alongside dusty and truffle aromas mingle with a whiff of oak. Lean 87 Montepulciano). Filled with rustic charm, tannins that leave a somewhat astringent finish. and linear, the palate offers dried cherry, orange this has earthy aromas of truffle, leather, a whiff of Maverick Selections. —K.O. zest, toast, oak-driven spice and roasted coffee bean wet fur and a note of spiced plum. Reflecting the abv: 13.5% Price: $35 alongside close-grained tannins. —K.O. nose, the ripe chewy palate offers black cherry, abv: 13.5% Price: $28 prune extract, ground clove and a funky hint of Lombardo 2013 Riserva (Vino Nobile di game alongside dusty tannins. Vinarium Inc. —K.O. 86 Montepulciano).­ This opens with aromas of Fattoria Del Cerro 2014 Vino Nobile di Monte­ abv: 14% Price: $50 stewed prune, carob, leather and a whiff of truffle. 88 pulciano. Aromas suggesting stewed prune, The firm palate is already evolved, offering dried wild herb, French oak and a whiff of baking spice Fattoria Svetoni 2015 Vino Nobile di Monte­ cherry, powdered thyme, toast and roasted coffee lead the nose. The palate is on the lean side, offering 87 pulciano. Scorched underbrush, new leather, bean alongside grainy tannins that leave a drying, suggestions of dried cherry, roasted coffee bean and steeped prune and exotic spice aromas come to the dusty finish. Eagle Eye Brands. —K.O. forefront. Buffed and lean, the taut light-bodied abv: 14% Price: $29 palate offers dried cherry, clove, powdered sage and

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 Casale Daviddi 2013 Camaione (Vino Nobile Alzinger 2017 Ried Steinertal Grüner Velt- 85 di Montepulciano). Aromas evoking stewed SPARKLING WINE 95 liner Smaragd (Wachau). Aromatic notes of prune and nail polish follow over to the palate ripe pear flesh and peel have a yeasty, sonorous edge along with game, black olive and a hint of barnyard. Nino Franco 2013 Grave di Stecca Brut on the nose. The palate joins both fruit and yeast It’s evolved, with dusty fleeting tannins a slightly 94 (Vino Spumante). Fresh and refined, in a lovely, textured core that reveals salty, almost astringent but fleeting finish. Vinarium Inc. —K.O. this elegant sparkler opens with enticing, deli- bitter miso and echoes of deep savoriness. Pithy cit- abv: 14% Price: $70 cate scents of white stone fruit, spring flower and rus lends even more mouthfeel. A wonderfully con- crushed alpine herb. The dry savory palate delivers centrated, complex wine that deserves some bottle Fanetti–Tenuta S. Agnese 2015 Tenuta S. Bartlett pear, crunchy apple, lemon zest and ginger age. Drink 2020–2035. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Cellar 85 Agnese (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). This set against a foaming mousse. Bright acidity lifts the Selection. —A.K. opens with aromas of truffle, cellar floor and a whiff rich flavors. Delicious! Terlato Wines International. abv: 14% Price: $66 of wild berry. It’s rather rustic, offering raw sour Editors’ Choice. —K.O. cherry, powdered sage, a hint of clove and a gamy abv: 12% Price: $38 Domäne Wachau 2017 Ried Achleiten Grüner note alongside dusty drying tannins that leave a 95 Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). Notes of salty rough finish. Enotec Imports, Inc. —K.O. miso, celery, lemon and green pear unite into an abv: 14% Price: $18 RED WINES intriguing nose. On the palate, it is ripe, juicy pear that takes the lead, but that salty zestiness, that Lombardo 2015 Poggio Saragio (Vino Nobile Proprietà Sperino NV ’L Franc (Vino Rosso edge of peppery savoriness is always present, adding 85 di Montepulciano). This opens with aromas 94 d’Italia). Made entirely with Cabernet freshness and allure to this fluid, slender, concen- of French oak, pressed violet, resin and a whiff of Franc, this is an unusual wine for the area, which trated and zesty wine. The finish echoes with citrus leather. The lean firm palate shows oak-driven spice normally focuses on native grapes. It opens with and white pepper. It will take some time to come and a green note of powdered sage but it lacks fruit. classic varietal aromas of cassis, cedar, exotic spice into its powerful own. Drink 2020–2030. Gonzalez Grainy assertive tannins clench the astringent finish. and a whiff of bell pepper. Juicy and savory, the Byass USA. Cellar Selection. —A.K. Eagle Eye Brands. —K.O. smooth concentrated palate doles out ripe black abv: 14.5% Price: $46 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 cherry, black currant, ground pepper and star anise framed in velvety tannins that give it an almost Domäne Wachau 2017 Ried Kellerberg Grüner weightless character. Drink through 2025. —K.O. 95 Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). Highly aro- TOSCANA abv: 14% Price: $NA matic notes of glowingly ripe, juicy pear also have an edge of bergamot. This aromatic sophistication Salcheto 2017 Obvius (Toscana). Earthy and Villa Guelpa 2017 Longitudine 8.26 Nebbiolo carries over onto the palate where pithy, zesty citrus 90 savory, this opens with aromas of black- 89 (Vino Rosso d’Italia). Young and juicy, this provides lots of concentration. The result is totally skinned berry, pressed violet, baking spice and a bright red opens with aromas of wild red berry, tilled mouthwatering in a salty fashion that is utterly whiff of sunbaked earth. The aromas follow over to soil and dark culinary spice. It’s vibrant and savory, moreish and very refreshing. This is racy, taut and the easygoing generous palate along with ripe plum delivering mouthfuls of juicy black cherry, crushed packed with flavor. Gonzalez Byass USA. —A.K. and clove. Enjoy through 2022. Massanois Imports. strawberry, white pepper and clove framed in lithe abv: 14% Price: $46 —K.O. tannins. Drink now to capture the succulent fruit. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 T. Edward Wines Ltd. —K.O. Josef Jamek 2017 Ried Liebenberg Grüner abv: NA Price: $22 95 Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). A lovely green apple freshness streams from the glass before a fen- OTHER ITALY nel and yeast savoriness spreads out. The slender AUSTRIA palate then regales us with utter lemony concentra- WHITE WINES tion that highlights pepper, pear, apple, sage and GRÜNER VELTLINER SMARAGD wet stone. Zestiness shimmers and is wonderfully Venissa 2012 Dorona (Vino Bianco d’Italia). pervasive, keeping this taut and wonderfully vivid. 94 This intriguing amber-colored wine is made Josef Jamek 2017 Ried Achleiten Grüner Velt- Carlo Huber Selections. —A.K. entirely with the rare native grape Dorona grown in 96 liner Smaragd (Wachau). Both ripe pear and abv: 13% Price: $37 the Venetian Lagoon. It opens with aromas of dried golden stone fruit beckon with their sunny juiciness apricot, honey, fruitcake and smoke that carry over on the nose. The palate then presents a tight, rich Domäne Wachau 2017 Terrassen Grüner Velt- to the mineral-driven palate along with a note of core of salty, spicy yeast, miso and pepper tones. 94 liner Smaragd (Wachau). A lovely hint of orange rind and saline. An almond note lingers on The pithy texture and the lemony brightness are green bergamot precedes the more customary notes the finish. Drink through 2022. Wilson Daniels Ltd. ideal counterweights in this compact, concentrated of green and yellow pear on the nose. The palate —K.O. and complex wine. Carlo Huber Selections. Editors’ is juicy and compact, presenting its pristine pear abv: 13% Price: $NA/500 ml Choice. —A.K. and citrus notes in a fluid, bulletlike fashion that abv: 14% Price: $48 explodes with zestiness and verve against a pithy, Venissa 2013 Dorona (Vino Bianco d’Italia). textured backdrop. The citrus notes fill the mouth 93 Complex and compelling, this deeply col- Alzinger 2017 Loibenberg Grüner Veltliner and last all the way to a very mouthwatering finish. ored white boasts aromas of orange zest, eucalyp- 95 Smaragd (Wachau). Notes of ripe Russet Gonzalez Byass USA. —A.K. tus honey, sea breeze and balsamic notes. Made pear on the nose have a pleasantly earthy edge. On abv: 13.5% Price: $25 with Dorona, a nearly extinct grape from Venice, the palate, the ripeness and juiciness of the pear the polished focused palate doles out mature yel- fruit is enforced, while a high-toned, zesty lemon Georg Frischengruber 2017 Ried Kirnberg low peach, maple syrup and almond accompanied freshness underlines savory, salty and herbal notes 94 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). Sub- by a savory mineral vein. Fresh acidity lifts the dry of yeast. This is concentrated, mouthwatering and tle notes of Russet pear peel and lime zest on the finish and bestows an age-worthy structure. Drink totally moreish, especially on that long, appetizing nose lead to a very concentrated body where the through 2023. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selection. finish. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. attractive zestiness combines winningly with notes —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $56 of salty miso and hints of white pepper. It is cit- abv: 13% Price: $NA rus freshness that highlights the aromatic, savory nature of these flavors and gives this wine its racy,

WINEMAG.COM | 55

BUYINGGUIDE refreshing tension and utter moreishness. Schatzi bitter edge of yeast and zest meet rounded, harmo- liams pear shines on the nose. The palate comes in Wines. —A.K. nious and ripe pear fruit. The long, lip-smacking with immense concentration that brims with spiky abv: 13.5% Price: $42 finish makes you crave more. Weygandt-Metzler. citrus zest and a lovely, grippy, pithy texture. Lemon —A.K. balm, white pepper and crushed verbena shimmer Tegernseerhof 2017 Bergdistel Grüner Velt- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA around the edges, but it is the lemon peel purity 94 liner Smaragd (Wachau). Lemon zest, white that radiates all the way to the lip-smacking finish. pepper and soy savoriness on the nose promise Pichler-Krutzler 2017 Ried Loibenberg Grüner Circo Vino. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. spice and concentration. It is on the textured mid- 94 Veltliner (Wachau). A funky whiff hints at abv: 13% Price: $50 palate that the saltiness spreads, highlighting shim- some promising reduction on the nose before savory mers of white pepper, crushed sage and yeast. While notes of citrus, arugula and miso take over. There is Proidl 2017 Ried Pellingen Reserve Grüner the core is rich and buffered, the body of the wine a ripe core that adds juicy, rounded pear notes to 94 Veltliner (Kremstal). A hint of earthiness remains fluid, slender and taut. A class act. KWSe- the savoriness that goes well with the rich, smooth precedes the notes of ripe, juicy pear on the nose. lection.com. —A.K. texture of the wine. The finish is lasting, salty and The palate switches into a savory mode that puts a abv: 13.5% Price: $34 moreish. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. salty yeastiness at the center, where creamy yeast abv: 13.5% Price: $NA and zesty pith combine into a wonderful texture, yet Fischer 2017 Ried Frauenweingärten Grüner the finish shines with bright lemon and ripe pear. 93 Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). White pepper, Tegernseerhof 2017 Ried Höhereck Grüner What a lovely mouthful. Soilair Selection. —A.K. pear, miso and yeast on the nose promise fresh- 94 Veltliner (Wachau). Freshly turned wet abv: 14% Price: $35 ness and texture in equal measure. The palate adds earth and pear peel on the nose promise richness a good dose of tingling white pepper spice to the and texture. The palate duly obliges and presents Salomon-Undhof 2017 Ried Wachtberg yeasty core. The body presents zesty, pithy concen- a concentrated core that unites salty yeast, lemon 94 Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). A touch of miso tration and plenty of mouthfeel with a lip-smacking zest and savory miso notes. A slight but pleasant and earth clings to the pear peel note of the nose. finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. bitterness adds bite and counters the lovely fruit. The palate also presents these savory flavors, which abv: 14.5% Price: $27 This is complex and mouthwatering to the last. are reminiscent of miso paste, soy and crushed sage. KWSelection.com. —A.K. Lively lemon brightness highlights them all the Fischer 2017 Privat Grüner Veltliner Smaragd abv: 14% Price: $49 more and provides a pithy texture. A lovely, savory 92 (Wachau). Russet pear peel and yeast are and complex wine. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.K. subtle on the nose. It is on the palate that the con- KREMSTAL abv: 13% Price: $33 centration becomes apparent: There is zesty lemon backed and countered by salty yeast. The pithy GRÜNER VELTLINER Salomon-Undhof 2017 Von Stein Reserve freshness and rich yeast echo till the finish. Freder- 94 Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Notes of freshly ick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. Malat 2017 Ried Höhlgraben Alte Reben cut apple and Conference pear peel dance on the abv: 14.5% Price: $30 95 Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Yeast, wet nose alongside fresh lemon. The palate adds a tex- earth and supremely aromatic pear notes make for tured backdrop to this fruity display, which features OTHER WACHAU an intriguing nose. On the palate it is lifted, fruity, salty yeast and pithy, earthy depth. The finish is fresh and almost passion-fruit-like juiciness that dominated by mouthwatering, refreshing lemon GRÜNER VELTLINER make this irresistible. The body is concentrated and zestiness. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.K. fluid and for now showcases its brilliant, refreshing abv: 14% Price: $48 Nikolaihof 2013 Baumpresse Im Weingebirge and exciting fruit, but underneath is a core of salty 96 Grüner Veltliner (Wachau). Wonderfully richness that makes this so very moreish. Fluid, Türk 2017 Ried Kremser Frechau Reserve reductive notes of gunflint blend with aromatic salty, zesty, slender but rounded. Circo Vino. —A.K. 94 Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Wet stone and notes of baked apple and citrus zestiness on the abv: 13% Price: $50 freshly cut pear peel dominate the nose. The palate nose. The palate reprises these notes and adds a expands with fresh, ripe pear and more subtle Man- vivid, textured earthiness. At its core is a mouth- Nigl 2017 Herzstück vom Kirchenberg Grüner darin orange notes against a beautifully salty, pithy watering saltiness edged with pleasantly bitter pith 95 Veltliner (Kremstal). Lemon balm and nettle backdrop of yeast. This is concentrated, sassy and and dusty sprays of white pepper. What concentra- notes gently insinuate their savoriness into a fruity zesty. Balanced Wine Selections LLC. —A.K. tion, what allure, what freshness, even with five mix of ripe lemon and pear. This game of savory, abv: 13.5% Price: $NA years of maturity. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. almost salty fruitiness continues on the fluid body, abv: 12.5% Price: $70 which is tense and wonderfully taut with juicy Forstreiter 2017 Ried Schiefer Grüner Velt- freshness. Lemon and pear for now take center 93 liner (Kremstal). Pear peel, miso and yeast Nikolaihof 2010 Im Weingebirge Grüner stage, but salty yeast informs that vivid zestiness at on the nose immediately promise a savory wine. The 96 Veltliner Federspiel (Wachau). Earthy, juicy the core. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. palate delivers with an almost fizzingly fresh zesty ripeness of Russet pear is evoked vividly on the abv: 14% Price: $62 core and a yeasty, salty texture that is both fruity nose, while white pepper and ground stone shimmer and spicy. There is concentration and strength in the background. The palate is juicy at first, but Türk 2017 Ried Kremser Thurnerberg Reserve despite the slenderness. The finish is lip-smacking soon the salty, yeasty, almost cheesy core spreads its 95 Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). The fragrance of and long and reprises that lovely pear note. Freder- savory magic, not without adding vivid apple notes. crushed citrus leaves creates a heady opening on the ick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. A very complex and deeply satisfying wine. The fin- nose before ripe pear and lemon balm follow. The abv: 14.5% Price: $25 ish belongs to zesty, clean lemon. Skurnik Wines, palate presents a picture of concentrated zestiness Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. with edges of white pepper, salty preserved lemon Forstreiter 2017 Ried Tabor Reserve Grüner abv: 11.5% Price: $30 and arugula, all wrapped in pear-fruited richness. 93 Veltliner (Kremstal). Very fresh pear and Zest also characterizes the finish of this wine, which pear drop on the nose signal fruity freshness on the Pichler-Krutzler 2017 Ried Kellerberg Grüner carries its full-flavored richness lightly. —A.K. nose. The lively, slender palate adds zesty citrus and 94 Veltliner (Wachau). Pear and salty miso on abv: 14% Price: $NA a slightly textured, yeasty core. But freshness, green the nose already promise a dramatic clash of oppo- pear and lemon reign joyfully on this refreshing, sites. The palate presents these poles in exemplary Malat 2017 Ried Gottschelle Grüner Veltliner vivid wine. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. fashion. The creamy, textured, pithy and pleasantly 94 (Kremstal). Fully ripe and aromatic Wil- abv: 14% Price: $35

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 Nigl 2017 Ried Pellingen Privat Grüner Velt- full of flavor and finishes with slight pepperiness. saltiness on the nose find their full, rich expression 93 liner (Kremstal). Aromatic notes of ripe Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. on the expansive palate. Aromatic, ripe pear fruit Comice pear on the nose promise both freshness abv: 14% Price: $26 pervades the creamy yeast and counters the won- and fruit. The palate immediately adds an exciting derful pepperiness. Fruit and textured richness go sense of white pepper and lemon pith to provide hand in hand. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. structure and texture to the lovely, friendly and aro- KAMPTAL GRÜNER VELTLINER abv: 13% Price: $65 matic pear fruit. Both pear and pepper echo long on the slender, zesty body. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. Schloss Gobelsburg 2016 Ried Renner Grüner Leindl 2017 Ried Seeberg Grüner Veltliner abv: 13.5% Price: $68 96 Veltliner (Kamptal). Crushed sage, yar- 94 (Kamptal). A rather shy nose reveals noth- row and mossy earthiness entice on the nose. On ing but slight notes of citrus. The palate then fills Proidl 2017 Ried Ehrenfels Reserve Grüner the palate, rich yeasty texture and fine, high-toned out with subtle but convincing notes of fresh sage, 93 Veltliner (Kremstal). A nose that combines citrus freshness frame and embrace all of this lemon pith, celery salt and yeast. Lemon highlights Russet pear with lime zest promises concentration savory charm. This is highly concentrated, tin- keep this on the ultrafresh side, but the savory that promptly follows on the slender but bundled gling with pepper and sage, brimming with pear yeastiness provides a lovely balance. Kysela Père et palate. Here, the salty yeastiness that pervades this fruit and lemon freshness. Every molecule of fluid Fils. —A.K. wine becomes apparent with hints of green pep- is crammed with sheer flavor, yet there is nothing abv: 13% Price: $43 per. Lovely ripe pear notes counter the savoriness fat about these wines. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Editors’ and combine into a very harmonious whole. Soilair Choice. —A.K. Schloss Gobelsburg 2017 Ried Grub Grüner Selection. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $30 94 Veltliner (Kamptal). A rich, fragrant yeasti- abv: 14% Price: $45 ness, tinged with celery salt and sage shimmers on Bründlmayer 2017 Ried Spiegel Vincent the nose alongside citrus and green pear. On the Salomon-Undhof 2017 Ried Lindberg Grüner 95 Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). The flinty whiff palate, the yeast pervades both texture and flavor, 93 Veltliner (Kremstal). Pear peel, lemon zest of reduction still plays promisingly on the nose. The enhanced by new notes of hay flower and a distinct, and lemon balm combine into a nose of ripe green- palate then fans out into earthy pepperiness, pear- moreish, tingling saltiness. So much flavor packed ness. The palate is concentrated and has that lovely fruited creaminess and spiky lemon freshness. Both into a mouthful of wine. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. edge of mandarin zest that enriches the yeasty tex- texture and freshness characterize the midpalate, abv: 13.5% Price: $38 ture with juicy, vibrant freshness. This is mouthwa- while sage, pepper and dried sage shimmer around tering, tense and moreish. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. the edges. Lovely, unusual and very elegant. Terry Schloss Gobelsburg 2017 Ried Lamm Grüner —A.K. Theise Estate Selections. —A.K. 94 Veltliner (Kamptal). High-toned notes of abv: 14.5% Price: $55 abv: 12.5% Price: $75 freshly cut green pear expand on the nose. The pal- ate then adds its creamy yeastiness and the tex- Stadt Krems 2017 Ried Wachtberg Reserve Eichinger 2017 Ried Gaisberg Grüner Veltliner ture of citrus pith, lending structure and a fitting 93 Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Beautifully 95 (Kamptal). Salt, pepper and lemon notes ­backdrop to the salty, savory edge. Bright citrus aromatic notes of ripe Russet pear peel beckon on own the nose offer the promise of savoriness. The freshness keeps this on a totally refreshing and even the nose. On the palate, this lovely fruit is joined palate then wheels out all the salty concentration keel. Mouthfilling, concentrated and totally lip-­ by zesty pithiness with just an edge of pleasant bit- in full force. This tingles like lemon zest and has the smacking. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. terness that lends real grip amid the flowing, exu- texture of citrus pith. Concentration and savori- abv: 13.5% Price: $47 berant juiciness. It is the aromatic pear that owns ness are written all over it. This is compact, deeply the long finish. Craft + Estate–The Winebow Group. savory and totally lip-smacking. Weygandt-Metzler. Schloss Gobelsburg 2016 Tradition Grüner —A.K. —A.K. 94 Veltliner (Kamptal). A touch of baked pear abv: 13.5% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $29 blinks though the softer, pillowy yeastiness on the nose. It is on the palate that the yeastiness becomes Türk 2017 Ried Kremser Sandgrube Grüner Eichinger 2017 Ried Lamm Grüner Veltliner pithy, while a creamy saltiness spreads with high- 93 Veltliner (Kremstal). Zest, pear, miso, pep- 95 (Kamptal). Soft green pear on the nose has lights of sage and fennel seed. A savory wine with per and fennel seed are all hinted at on the nose and edges of dried sage. The slender palate still seems immense fluidity, concentration and character. appear inside a lovely, zesty frame on the concen- tightly closed but its pithy, textured concentration Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. trated palate. Yeasty texture amplifies the savori- promises depths of salty, yeasty, pear- and citrus- abv: 13% Price: $38 ness of the herb and miso notes, but lemon zest fruited pleasure. This will blossom with a little bot- provides a lovely, full-flavored and refreshing finish. tle aging and will definitely be worth the wait. Drink Steininger 2017 Ried Kittmannsberg Reserve Balanced Wine Selections LLC. —A.K. 2022–2030. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. 94 Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). A high-toned abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $39 note of fresh, green pear appears before riper pear and sage take over on the nose. The palate adds Stift Göttweig 2017 Ried Gott Reserve Grüner Loimer 2017 Ried Loiserberg Grüner Velt- zingy, fresh and tingling lemon peel to the salty 92 Veltliner (Kremstal). The merest whiff of 95 liner (Kamptal). Funky earthiness encoun- yeast and savory, mossy herbal notes, lending slen- gunflint on the nose gives way to subtle pear and ters the nose first. After that, supremely ripe pear derness to these enticing, pervasive and moreish lemon zest notes. The palate comes in with the ani- fruit takes over. The palate adds cushioned, creamy flavors with their long finish. KWSelection.com. mating juiciness of really ripe lemon and continues yeastiness and a whole load of lemon-scented, salty —A.K. in this slender, juicy, refreshing and concentrated but soft yeastiness. This is a wine about texture abv: 13.5% Price: $39 fashion. This is full of flow, ease and lemony and and depth, about earth and deep savoriness. This provides perfect refreshment. Circo Vino. —A.K. is fluid and rounded without an ounce of fat, simply Steininger 2017 Ried Lamm Reserve Grüner abv: 13.5% Price: $51 flowing in its own, rounded creaminess. The finish 94 Veltliner (Kamptal). Ripe stone fruit, juicy is fresh and creamy. Craft + Estate–The Winebow yellow pear and creamy yeast signal richness on Winzer Krems 2017 Kremser Wachtberg Group. —A.K. the nose. The palate obliges with yeasty creaminess 92 Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Lemon, abv: 12.5% Price: $40 and a bold but fluid texture. The ripe and juicy pear celery and miso on the nose present a very appetiz- notes, however, peep through in a joyful, almost ing combination. The miso and yeast flavors become Hirsch 2017 Ried Lamm Grüner Veltliner stronger on the slender but rounded palate. This is 94 (Kamptal). Yeast, earthiness, ripe pear and

WINEMAG.COM | 57

BUYINGGUIDE cheeky fashion. A lovely, rounded, full-flavored wine creaminess. The fruity pear notes seem to become enriched with savory, salty, herbal creaminess of with a peppery finish. KWSelection.com. —A.K. more intense with every sip, always bedded with yeast and gentle pear fruit. This is concentrated, abv: 14% Price: $49 this soft, springy yeast. Very fluid and elegant. Savio complex and light, despite its undoubted body and Soares Selections. —A.K. oomph. Drink now–2028. KWSelection.com. Cellar Steininger 2017 Ried Loisium Reserve Grüner abv: 13% Price: $49 Selection. —A.K. 94 Veltliner (Kamptal). Green Conference pear abv: 13.5% Price: $45 and earthy, salty yeast on the nose reappear with Bernhard Ott 2017 Stein Grüner Veltliner renewed vigor on the slender but buffered palate. 92 (Kamptal). Gentle notes of yellow plum Anton Bauer 2017 Spiegel Grüner Veltliner White pepper and celery salt tingle while fresh promise softness and fruit on the nose. That soft- 94 (Wagram). Yeast, celery and a hint of cream lemon and moss notes persists. KWSelection.com. ness expands further on the gentle, light-footed make for an intriguing nose. The palate brings —A.K. palate. There it is channeled into citrus freshness yeasty, savory notes and provides distinct concen- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 and white pepper spice. The body is slender, and tration on the slender palate. Lovely, spicy depth the finish is clean and appetizing. Skurnik Wines, and moreishness reign on the salty finish. KWSelec- Allram 2017 Ried Gaisberg Grüner Veltliner Inc. —A.K. tion.com. —A.K. 93 (Kamptal). Earth, yeast and celery salt abv: 13% Price: $65 abv: 13.5% Price: $34 promise a savory, textured wine, and the palate duly delivers: Yeast and texture have something of rich Leindl 2017 Langenlois Grüner Veltliner Bernhard Ott 2017 Rosenberg Grüner Velt- citrus zest. The palate tingles here and there with 92 (Kamptal). Notes of freshly cut Conference 94 liner (Wagram). Notes of superripe stone a little white pepper, while that celery saltiness pear have hints of crushed sage, fennel seed and fruit stream from the glass, but the palate is a pic- echoes in the background. Vias Imports. —A.K. lime peel. The palate trumps with a similar array of ture of savoriness. There still is the fluidity of the abv: 13.5% Price: $32 flavors that unite citrus freshness and herbal, salty fruit, but this really is about salty, yeasty, savory savor, all supported by finely textured yeastiness texture with wonderful freshness and concentra- Allram 2017 Ried Renner Grüner Veltliner and that green pear note. Elegant and impeccably tion. Tingling white pepper frames the long finish. 93 (Kamptal). Lemon zest, creamy yeast and balanced in its full-flavored lightness. Kysela Père Wonderful. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. white asparagus combine into a most enticing nose. et Fils. —A.K. —A.K. The palate brings yet more savoriness with its abv: 12.5% Price: $35 abv: 13% Price: $65 shimmering white pepper and gleaming ripe lemon notes. The concentration is made all the more pal- TRAISENTAL Bernhard Ott 2017 Spiegel Grüner Veltliner pable by wonderful yeasty note. It offers a lovely, 94 (Wagram). Notes of freshly turned, wet satisfying mouthful. Vias Imports. —A.K. GRÜNER VELTLINER earth attain an air of herbal savoriness, which finds abv: 13.5% Price: $30 its full expression on the slender and very juicy Markus Huber 2017 Ried Berg Grüner Velt- palate. Ripe yellow plum is joined by arugula, hay Hiedler 2017 Ried Kittmannsberg Grüner 94 liner (Traisental). A subtle nose reveals flower, crushed yarrow and wet moss. The finish 93 Veltliner (Kamptal). Green Conference pear suspicions of yeast and lemon. The palate shows is tapered to a long finish by spiky, fresh lemon. on the nose sends a promise of freshness and vivid an intriguing edge of phenolics that unites yeasty Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. fruit. The concentrated texture is reminiscent of texture with lemony pith. All this happens on light, abv: 13% Price: $65 citrus pith, while the softening yeast has a salty, delicate but very grounded feet. This is lovely now moreish aspect. The finish is totally refreshing and but will be even better with bottle aging. Drink Ecker 2017 Ried Mordthal Grüner Veltliner intense, with pear, yeast and salt. Skurnik Wines, 2022–2030. Broadbent Selections, Inc. Cellar 92 (Wagram). Yeast and crushed sage on the Inc. —A.K. Selection. —A.K. nose promise concentration and savoriness. The abv: 13% Price: $42 abv: 13.5% Price: $75 palate delivers with zesty brio that moves the yeasty texture center stage. The finish is lemony, long and Hiedler 2017 Ried Schenkenbichl Grüner Markus Huber 2017 Ried Alte Setzen Grüner salty. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. 93 Veltliner (Kamptal). A mossy, green fresh- 93 Veltliner (Traisental). Ripe Mirabelle plum abv: 13.5% Price: $20 ness precedes ripe notes of Russet pear on the shimmers gently on the nose. The palate counters nose. The palate then spreads itself on the tongue this rounded gentleness with concentrated, zesty Fritsch 2017 Ried Schlossberg Grüner Veltliner in expansive, fresh, savory yeastiness. That mossy freshness that sweeps in and reveals a core of salty, 91 (Wagram). Freshly cut green fruit sets the herbal note mingles with fresh citrus and packs a savory yeastiness. Understated but effective. Broad- tone. Kiwi, greengage and Conference pear unite wonderfully textured mouthful of flavor. Light and bent Selections, Inc. —A.K. with herbal freshness and continue in this fresh, balanced, but with lots of impact. Skurnik Wines, abv: 13.5% Price: $30 slender and brisk vein onto the slender palate. Inc. —A.K. Bright lemon and white pepper do the rest and leave abv: 13.5% Price: $42 Markus Huber 2017 Ried Zwirch Grüner Velt- you totally refreshed. Frederick Wildman & Sons, 93 liner (Traisental). Gentle notes of blossom Ltd. —A.K. Hirsch 2017 Ried Gaisberg Grüner Veltliner play around notions of Mirabelle plum on the nose. abv: 13% Price: $30 93 (Kamptal). The nose is a picture of zesty The palate, however, focuses on yeast and salty con- lemon and salty yeast. It is the savoriness of the centration. There is something of celery, lemon pith Ecker 2017 Ried Schlossberg Grüner Veltliner yeasty core that takes over on the creamy yeast, and salt that entices all the way to the finish. Broad- 90 (Wagram). Aromas of pear and crushed zesty palate. This is fluid and compact, with an bent Selections, Inc. —A.K. sage start off the nose. The palate majors on the enticing, savory juiciness of green pear. The finish abv: 13.5% Price: $45 lemony side but gives some of that pithy saltiness is lip-smacking and long. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. that Grüner holds up its sleeve. Skurnik Wines, Inc. abv: 12.5% Price: $45 Best Buy. —A.K. WAGRAM GRÜNER VELTLINER abv: 13% Price: $14 Weszeli 2015 Ried Käferberg Grüner Veltliner 93 (Kamptal). A creamy hint of pear and green Anton Bauer 2017 Rosenberg Alte Reben Fritsch 2017 Ried Mordthal Grüner Veltliner banana teases on the nose. A certain soft creami- 94 Grüner Veltliner (Wagram). Subtle hints of 90 (Wagram). Gentle notes of Russet pear peel ness spreads across the palate and veers distinctly mace and pepper give the nose a spicy frame. The play on the nose and create a direct link to the fla- toward the ripe pear notes, buffered by yeasty palate then delivers Grüner’s inimitable texture, vors on the juicy palate, where ripe, almost luscious

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 stone fruit joins in. Zesty lemon provides a refresh- concentration that has something of citrus pith Sohm & Kracher 2016 Alte Reben Grüner ing counterpoint. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. about it. A wonderfully balanced wine with a brisk, 93 Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Rounded notes —A.K. zesty citrus finish. Multiple U.S. importers.Editors’ of ripe pear on the nose already have an herbal, pep- abv: 13% Price: $25 Choice. —A.K. pery edge, but that still does not prepare you for abv: 13.5% Price: $18 the explosion of concentrated flavor on the palate. WEINVIERTEL Notes of ripe, juicy stone fruit, yeast and arugula Setzer 2017 Ried Kronberg Reserve Grüner overtones all play around a central shaft of bright, GRÜNER VELTLINER 92 Veltliner (Weinviertel). Yeast, creaminess, refreshing acidity. Lovely now, sure to evolve. Drink moss, arugula and pepper all meet on the nose. The now–2025. Schatzi Wines. —A.K. Gruber Röschitz 2017 Ried Mühlberg Grüner palate reprises these flavors and presents them in abv: 12% Price: $NA 94 Veltliner (Weinviertel). Notes of crushed a fluid, compact, concentrated mouthful. The finish celery, sage and fresh yeast on the nose already is wonderfully zesty and salty, and it is only on the Sohm & Kracher 2015 Single Vineyard Grüner hint at the concentrated dose of savoriness that is finish that you realize what a little cracker this is. 93 Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Freshly cut peel to come. The palate presents this with a satisfying, Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. of ripe, juicy Russet pear is enticingly evoked on the lasting intensity. This is about texture and saltiness abv: 14% Price: $NA nose. The palate is light but has that most pleasant, rather than fruit and deserves to stand on the very ever so slightly grippy texture. There is concentra- best tables. A deeply gastronomic wine of beauti- H. & M. Hofer 2017 vdR Grüner Veltliner (Wein- tion and poise, but everything is subtle, quiet and ful but light-footed eminence. Deutsch Family Wine 91 viertel). Ripe melon mingles with crushed all the more convincing for it. Schatzi Wines. —A.K. and Spirits. —A.K. arugula and yeast on the nose. The palate is light abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $32 and adds bright lemon to proceedings, which helps to define that savory yeast core all the more. This Stift Klosterneuburg 2017 Reserve Grüner Gruber Röschitz 2017 Ried Hundspoint Grüner is light, fresh and moreish with saltiness. Skurnik 92 Veltliner (Niederösterreich). A really creamy 93 Veltliner (Weinviertel). The ripe headiness Wines, Inc. —A.K. note of oak and yeast hits the nose first and is of juicy yellow plums is apparent on the appetizing abv: 13% Price: $24 then joined by mossy freshness. The palate, like- nose. This is followed by far fresher notes of lemon. wise, combines a creamy, oak-scented softness The palate then reveals a zesty, yeasty texture of Schwarzböck 2017 Ried Sätzen Grüner Velt- with Grüner’s inherent savoriness. Lemon fresh- peppery lemon. This is a perfect tease, revealing 91 liner (Weinviertel). Ripe yellow plum, zesty ness brightens. This will benefit from some bottle layer upon layer of flavor, yet there is nothing facile lime and wet moss create a fresh and appetizing aging. Drink 2020–2025. Boutique Wine Collec- about it. Textbook Grüner with huge but unshowy nose. The palate packs a neat little yeasty punch, tion. —A.K. allure. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. Editors’ which accentuates the mossy notes. More zestiness abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Choice. —A.K. and salty yeast define the finish. Skurnik Wines, abv: 13% Price: $18 Inc. —A.K. Winzer Krems 2017 Edition Chremisa Grüner abv: 13% Price: $30 92 Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Pear peel, yeast, Ingrid Groiss 2017 Ried In der Schaublau miso and crushed sage make for an enticing, savory 93 Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Weinviertel). Setzer 2017 Ried Kirchengarten Reserve nose. The palate still tingles with freshness and The nose tells of ripe Mirabelle plum and gentle 91 Grüner Veltliner (Weinviertel). The nose presents ripe pear and aromatic citrus that centers creaminess. The palate then switches its attention evokes the aroma of very ripe, golden pear. There on a firm, textured core of salty yeast and lemony to yeasty, salty savor and a pithy, moreish, tingling even is a tropical edge of passion fruit. The palate pith. This is concentrated and long. Multiple U.S. texture. The body is light and pleasantly slender but tones this down into citrus freshness, bundled into importers. —A.K. also utterly moreish with a beautifully long echo. a textured vein of yeastiness. The passion fruit stays abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Circo Vino. —A.K. until the finish. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 abv: 14% Price: $46 Schödl 2017 Blumenthal Grüner Veltliner 91 (Niederösterreich). Rather heady notes of R&A Pfaffl 2017 Reserve Golden Grüner Velt- NIEDERÖSTERREICH crushed citrus foliage precede the equally fresh and 93 liner (Weinviertel). The nose suggests very aromatic palate. This is unusually citrus-focused ripe fruit, full-blown yeastiness and wet earth. The GRÜNER VELTLINER for a Grüner, but the texture and yeasty spice bring palate adds bright, fresh lemon notes to this earthy, it back into the varietal fold. The finish still glows intense mix and presents a very textured, concen- Ingrid Groiss 2017 Ried Pankraz Reserve with zesty orange. Coeur Wine Co. —A.K. trated midpalate. This is a wine that needs hearty 94 Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Green abv: 13% Price: $24 food to do its muscular structure justice. Taub Fam- melon, citrus foliage and a lick of creaminess on the ily Selections. —A.K. nose make for a winning, appetizing combination. Schödl 2017 In den Kreuthern Grüner Veltliner abv: 14.5% Price: $40 The palate speaks of concentration, yeast and salty 91 (Niederösterreich). Very subtle notes of pear depth alongside the fresh green pear notes. This play gently on the nose as a prelude to a lovely, R&A Pfaffl 2017 Reserve Hommage Grüner is both rich and slender, expansive and focused. creamy, understated palate that unites that gentle 93 Veltliner (Weinviertel). Something floral Lovely. Circo Vino. —A.K. pear, bright lemon and subtle earthiness. This is and summery hovers on the nose of this fresh but abv: 13.5% Price: $51 light and elegant. Coeur Wine Co. —A.K. rounded Grüner. It is on the palate that it packs a abv: 13.5% Price: $32 punch with vivid and juicy notes of ripe pear and Ingrid Groiss 2017 Ried Sauberg Tradition peach but above all with its yeasty, rich texture. 94 Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). A riper BURGENLAND Lemon brightness brings it all in line. The finish is aspect of pear plays on the nose, but it is not until long and salty. Taub Family Selections. —A.K. the wine reaches the palate that it comes alive. GRÜNER VELTLINER abv: 14.5% Price: $80 There is a still tight core that holds notes of yeast, shimmering white pepper, celery salt and wet earth, Sohm & Kracher 2016 St Georg Grüner Velt- Dürnberg 2017 Tradition Reserve Grüner Velt- which unfold slowly with a bit of air. This is con- 92 liner (Burgenland). The lively notes of oak 92 liner (Weinviertel). Scented notes of pear centrated but not heavy, impressive but relaxed and on the nose almost have a pine resin headiness. almost have a hint of summer blossom on the nose. simply balanced perfectly. Circo Vino. —A.K. Upon this follows creamy, almost emollient soft- The palate complements this with yeasty, textured abv: 13.5% Price: $51 ness. The palate, right now, is still under the spell

WINEMAG.COM | 59

BUYINGGUIDE of the oak but has sufficient concentration to digest Josef Jamek 2017 Ried Klaus Riesling Sma- it with some more bottle age. Fruit, freshness and 96 ragd (Wachau). Tender notes of candied OTHER WACHAU RIESLING structure will all come through. Drink from 2022. lemon and tangerine promise aromatic but rounded Schatzi Wines. —A.K. pleasure on the nose. The palate follows suite with Nikolaihof 2002 Vinothek Riesling (Wachau). abv: 13.5% Price: $NA a juicy, appetizing core that owed much to tanger- 97 A teasing, flinty whiff of reduction beckons ine pith and peel. There is structure and vividness from the glass before the taut, fresh, poised but Tinhof 2017 Golden Erd Neuburger (Burgen- as well as concentration, warmth and juicy poise. juicy palate hits you. The flavor is reminiscent both 94 land). Russet pear peel, hay flower, spruce So harmonious that non-Riesling nuts will be sur- of baked and fresh apple, with a smooth lanolin and wet earth subtly combine into an intriguing, prised. The finish is whistle-clean, long and still tone. This is not only and elixir but a whole foun- appetizing nose. The palate comes in with an unex- juicy. Carlo Huber Selections. —A.K. tain of youth, a full-flavored jewel of a wine. Still pected but delightful lemon brightness that high- abv: 14% Price: $66 slender, still vivid and like balm for the soul. If only lights that aromatic edge of conifer. The texture has we could age so gracefully. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Edi- a phenolic grip that is reminiscent of chewed apple Alzinger 2017 Ried Loibenberg Riesling Sma- tors’ Choice. —A.K. pip with a rather pleasant edge of bitterness. This 94 ragd (Wachau). The most aromatic hints of abv: 12.5% Price: $110 is rich in feel, making it a great wine for the dinner pear, Mandarin orange zest and lemon balm play table. Drink 2020–2030. Carlo Huber Selections. on the nose. The juicy palate broadens out gener- Nikolaihof 2011 Vom Stein Riesling Feder- —A.K. ously and lets ripe stone fruit speak. Mirabelle plum 96 spiel (Wachau). A lovely, slightly funky, abv: 14% Price: $80 juiciness makes this easy to like. Fresh zestiness smokiness on the nose comes hand in hand with becomes present on the appetizing, dry, long and baked and bruised apple notes. Crushed notes of Hillinger 2016 Terroir Pinot Blanc (Burgen- lemony finish. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. yarrow add an herbal frisson. The palate adds a 94 land). The merest hint of smoke on the abv: 13.5% Price: $56 creamy but focused ripeness, well tempered by nose has a pleasant edge of lemon zest. The palate integrated freshness. It is the texture here that cap- then unfolds with generous, lithe, bright pear fruit, Alzinger 2017 Ried Steinertal Riesling Sma- tivates, alongside the complex flavors. This shows always edged with that lovely lemon freshness. The 94 ragd (Wachau). Passion fruit and mango that a few years of bottle age are nothing on a good, palate has a pithy texture that reverberates with cit- on the nose set an unmistakably tropical tone. The light-footed Riesling. Enjoy this library release now rus freshness. Wait for this to unfurl. Drink 2020– palate continues in the same, generous juicy vein through 2030. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. 2030. KWSelection.com. —A.K. of full-on fruit but manages to temper this with —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $35 bright, lemon freshness. The finish is taut, clean, abv: 12% Price: $22 zesty and lemony Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $56 Pichler-Krutzler 2017 Ried Kellerberg Ries- OTHER GRÜNER VELTLINER 96 ling (Wachau). Heady, aromatic highlights Georg Frischengruber 2017 Ried Goldberg of candied lemon peel reach the nose, followed by Nittnaus Anita und Hans 2017 Manila Grüner 94 Riesling Smaragd (Wachau). Aromatic notes equally rich hints of ripe pear and peach. The pal- 94 Veltliner (Weinland Österreich). A little of crushed citrus foliage add a heady tinge to the ate takes this full force of generous fruit and pitches funky wilderness still plays on the yeasty nose and lemony, blossomy nose, while notions of riper, it against tangy, passion fruit and lemon zest. This does not yet give much away. The palate, however, almost tropical fruit swirl. It is the zestiness of cit- is concentrated and has wonderfully spiky lemon develops that textured, lemon-scented, yeasty game rus that takes center stage on the zippy, slender, freshness on the finish. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. and gives full rein to a kind of celery saltiness. There almost fizzing palate. This is refreshment made abv: 13% Price: $NA is lovely midpalate grip, too, and ample concentra- manifest and shows wonderful balance. Drink now– tion. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. 2029. Schatzi Wines. —A.K. abv: 11.5% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $45 KAMPTAL RIESLING

Zahel 2017 Ried Kaasraben Grüner Veltliner Tegernseerhof 2017 Ried Kellerberg Riesling Bründlmayer 2017 Ried Heiligenstein Ries- 93 (Vienna). Floral overtones and hints of 94 Smaragd (Wachau). The nose is shy and 96 ling (Kamptal). A wonderfully heady note ripe Mandarin orange peel lend a summery vibe to hints at pear and lemon. The palate then comes in of dried hay flower precedes lemon freshness on this Grüner. Lovely hints of lemon balm lend even with an unexpectedly earthy, grippy texture that the nose. The palate majors on this pervasive, aro- more freshness. The palate is full-fruited but has owes as much to zesty citrus as to concentration. matic and ripe lemon note and holds sway with a lovely edge of white pepper and ripe citrus zesti- But riper, juicier fruit holds attention. There is ripe juicy, alluring tartness. This is so concentrated, so ness. A wonderfully concentrated, citrusy mouth- Mirabelle plum and juicy peach. The finish is easy, lemony and so lip-smacking that you simply cannot ful. Winemonger. —A.K. zesty, dry and clean. KWSelection.com. —A.K. help wanting more. Lovely now, sure to be vibrant abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $49 until 2038. Terry Theise Estate Selections. Cellar Selection. —A.K. Tegernseerhof 2017 Ried Steinertal Riesling abv: 12.5% Price: $42 RIESLING SMARAGD 94 Smaragd (Wachau). Vivid citrus notes fill the nose. There is candied lemon and lemon oil Eichinger 2017 Ried Heiligenstein Riesling Domäne Wachau 2017 Ried Achleiten Ries- on the nose, with a riper hint of Mandarin orange. 96 (Kamptal). The merest cloud of flinty 96 ling Smaragd (Wachau). Both fresh lemon The palate is wonderfully tart, lemony and con- reduction cannot suppress the supremely pure and crushed lemon leaves on the nose have an air of centrated. This packs a lovely punch and still has a lemon note on the nose. The scent evokes big, aro- breezy freshness but underneath the juicy ripeness pleasant yeastiness at its core. Dry, zesty and sassy matic Amalfi lemons at their peak. The palate comes of Mandarin oranges and ripe clementines shines with a lovely bergamot hint on the finish. KWSelec- in with more juiciness, more ripeness, more round- through. The palate has a juicy softness, despite the tion.com. —A.K. ness and charms its way to your mind while swirling zestiness on the midpalate. There even are tropical abv: 13.5% Price: $49 with lemony abandon on the palate. Joyful, fresh, hints of passion fruit. The freshness is key, but it is zesty and very balanced. Enjoy now–2039. Wey- softly expressed on the clean, zesty, long and more- gandt-Metzler. —A.K. ish finish. Drink now–2039. Gonzalez Byass USA. abv: 13.5% Price: $39 —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $50

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 Schloss Gobelsburg 2017 Ried Gaisberg Ries- tons at once. Drink now–2035. Kysela Père et Fils. enticing. Drink 2029–2035. Skurnik Wines, Inc. 96 ling (Kamptal). You sniff several things at —A.K. —A.K. once. A touch of flinty reduction, the tropical allure abv: 13% Price: $43 abv: 13% Price: $45 of passion fruit and the juicy promise of ripe Man- darin orange. The palate comes in with enough Loimer 2017 Ried Seeberg Riesling (Kamp- Hiedler 2017 Ried Koglberg Riesling (Kamp- zestiness to be very refreshing, yet juicy. There is 95 tal). Wet stone, pear peel and zesty lemon 94 tal). An earthy hint of Russet pear peel as much lemon flavor on the palate as there is riper signal clarity and freshness on the nose. The pal- plays on the nose before tart but ripe lemon notes citrus, but it is the lemon that provides zestiness, ate stays slender and concentrated, sinuous in a kick in. The palate brims with that lively, ripe lemon bounce, freshness and focus. Skurnik Wines, Inc. ripe lemon note. There is a flowing current of lemon fruit and tingles with generosity across the palate. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. refreshment on the palate, with a harmonious bal- There is something very satisfying, juicy and lip- abv: 13.5% Price: $27 ance and a clean finish. Lovely now, it is sure to smacking about such ripe lemon fruit. The finish is blossom with bottle age. Drink now–2035. Craft + dry and moreish. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. Schloss Gobelsburg 2016 Tradition Riesling Estate–The Winebow Group. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $45 96 (Kamptal). A flinty hint of reduction plays abv: 12.5% Price: $68 above juicy Mandarin orange and red apple on the Hirsch 2017 Ried Gaisberg Riesling (Kamp- nose, while a zesty, aromatic leafiness adds com- Weszeli 2015 Ried Seeberg Riesling (Kamp- 94 tal). An earthy hint is reminiscent of very plexity. The palate brims with ripe citrus zest that 95 tal). Very ripe notes of yellow Mirabelle ripe and juicy Mirabelle plum and of fresh, creamy makes the mouth water with its feast of Mandarin plum are suffused with lime zest on the nose. That yeast. The palate adds a zesty lemon freshness, but and tangerine notes. What a lovely, vivid, balanced, supercharged full-fruitedness carries over onto the the Mirabelle and yeast combination persists all the zesty and utterly juicy core of fruit shines through. slender body. It is lemony brightness that gives way on the creamy but fresh palate. Mouthwater- A joy right now but good to last. Drink now–2039. definition here, barely framing all of that inviting, ing freshness follows on this funky, textured and dry Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. exuberant fruit. Concentrated, juicy and dry with Riesling. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $38 lots of mileage yet. Drink now–2035. Savio Soares abv: 12.5% Price: $65 Selections. —A.K. Bründlmayer 2017 Ried Heiligenstein Lyra abv: 13% Price: $49 Hirsch 2017 Ried Heiligenstein Riesling 95 Riesling (Kamptal). A touch of reduction, 94 (Kamptal). An earthy, almost homely nose a hint of savory soy and the aromatic headiness of Weszeli 2015 Ried Steinmassl Riesling of Russet pear peel turns into zesty freshness on the crushed citrus foliage make for a most intriguing, 95 (Kamptal). Very ripe and supremely juicy palate. There is concentration, more of that honest inviting nose. The palate has a generous, easy juici- Mirabelle plum fruit appears promisingly on the earthiness in a kind of pithy texture and a whole ness; a harmonious ripeness and a lovely edge of nose. The palate obliges with rich, rounded and counterweight of lemon purity. A beautifully bal- pith on its concentrated texture. The finish is fresh generous Mirabelle juiciness. There is freshness to anced, juicy and refreshing wine with a dry finish. but rounded, dry and long. Terry Theise Estate counter this with a faint line of grapefruit zestiness. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. Selections. —A.K. But Mirabelle plays front and center. The finish abv: 12.5% Price: $65 abv: 13.5% Price: $75 is streamlined, lip-smacking and dry. Drink now– 2030. Savio Soares Selections. —A.K. Loimer 2017 Ried Steinmassl Riesling Eichinger 2017 Ried Gaisberg Riesling (Kamp- abv: 13% Price: $49 94 (Kamptal). A creamy, rich fruitiness plays 95 tal). Amid the lively and bright lemon notes on the nose, suggesting pear juice and a warming on the nose, a riper, more aromatic touch of juicy Allram 2017 Ried Gaisberg Riesling (Kamp- earthiness. The palate expands into funky flavors of Mandarin and blood orange sets an exotic accent. 94 tal). An aromatic tinge of yarrow and yeast and ripe pear, but a lovely vein of lemon fresh- The palate comes in with a lovely, light, easy juici- crushed citrus leaf adds heady allure to the lemony ness provides zestiness and poise. A lovely, honest, ness and a wonderful harmony of ripe freshness and flavors on the nose. The palate, still slightly spritzy, moreish and appetizing Riesling. Craft + Estate–The expressive, juicy fruit. The zesty concentration is presents a riper note, a rounder aspect despite all Winebow Group. —A.K. made manifest only on the finish. Weygandt-Met- its lemon freshness. There is something gentle, abv: 13% Price: $68 zler. —A.K. mild, juicy and harmonious about this. The finish is abv: 13.5% Price: $32 dry and zesty. Vias Imports. —A.K. Schloss Gobelsburg 2017 Ried Heiligenstein abv: 13% Price: $30 94 Riesling (Kamptal). Very juicy and ripe Hiedler 2017 Ried Heiligenstein Riesling notes of passion fruit and peach signal ripeness 95 (Kamptal). Something savory, something Allram 2017 Ried Heil Riesling (Kamptal). and pleasure. The palate delivers softly with even aromatic dances on the nose. It is reminiscent 94 Ripe yellow plum on the nose has an aro- more ripe generosity and juiciness. Ripe pear and of green bergamot peel. The palate comes in with matic tinge of apricot as well as of lemon zest. The plum also join in. A mere edge of lemon freshness wonderful concentration and precise slenderness, palate plays the same game of pitting generous, provides direction, but the finish has the custom- yet is brimming with both tart and ripe citrus notes ripe and juicy fruit against beautifully ripe but ary, moreish Riesling zestiness. Skurnik Wines, Inc. that range from Mandarin orange to zesty lime. This zesty freshness. There is something gentle here, —A.K. echoes long and is really lip-smacking. Skurnik something just about creamy that chimes well with abv: 13.5% Price: $45 Wines, Inc. —A.K. the apricot notes. A fresh but gentle Riesling with abv: 13% Price: $50 seductive ripeness, creaminess and a dry finish. Steininger 2017 Ried Steinhaus Reserve Vias Imports. —A.K. 94 Riesling (Kamptal). Tender notes of stone Leindl 2017 Ried Heiligenstein Riesling abv: 13.5% Price: $36 fruit have a juicy citrus edge on the nose. The pal- 95 (Kamptal). A hint of dried pear and dried ate comes in with a pervasively fresh, brisk lemon lime zest plays before juicier lime speaks. The pal- Hiedler 2017 Ried Gaisberg Riesling (Kamp- note that streamlines the palate but allows the juicy ate has a similar tension between ripe, almost dried 94 tal). A subdued nose gives hints of citrus, Mirabelle plum fruit to shine. Concentration on the fruit richness, while zestiness tones it all down into but it is only on the palate that the zestiness of midpalate makes it all the more zingy. This is zesty, taut slenderness. This is exciting, textured, juicy lemon comes through. This is concentrated and fresh and very taut with a dry, zesty, lasting finish. and totally moreish. There is something concen- taut, fresh and zippy, with enviable tension. The KWSelection.com. —A.K. trated and pervasive that hits several pleasure but- texture is reminiscent of lemon peel and pith and abv: 13.5% Price: $39 packs a wonderfully refreshing punch. The long fin- ish is pervaded by bright, salty lemon and is utterly

WINEMAG.COM | 61

BUYINGGUIDE

Weszeli 2015 Ried Heiligenstein Riesling wine. The finish is dry, long, zesty and moreish. tively lively and juicy. The finish is dry. Drink until 94 (Kamptal). Really ripe pear fruit on the Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. 2035. Craft + Estate–The Winebow Group. —A.K. nose emanates aromatics of Russet pear peel, juicy abv: 13.5% Price: $68 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 flesh and a richer angle of maple syrup. The pal- ate comes in with textured richness, which again Stadt Krems 2017 Ried Grillenparz Reserve Stift Göttweig 2017 Ried Pfaffenberg Ries- underlines the generosity and juiciness of ripe pear. 95 Riesling (Kremstal). Ripe, juicy Confer- 94 ling (Kremstal). Tropical notes of passion Despite full freshness, there is a very palpable, ence pear, clearest Mirabelle plum and ripe lemon fruit hover on the nose as much as the scent of earthy texture throughout, which will mark this meet on the fragrant nose. These flavors mingle on crushed lemon balm. The palate then brings a zesty out as a winner on the table with richer foods. That the concentrated palate with wonderful juiciness, but easy juiciness. All about this is balance, fresh- maple syrup note reappears on the dry, long finish. helped along by the bright lemon freshness. Zesty ness and poise. The concentration and wonderfully Savio Soares Selections. —A.K. texture adds precision. The finish is dry and mouth- clean finish become apparent on the lip-smacking, abv: 13% Price: $45 watering. This is utterly lemony, dry and moreish. moreish and dry finish. Circo Vino. —A.K. Drink 2020–2035. Craft + Estate–The Winebow abv: 13.5% Price: $60 Group. —A.K. KREMSTAL RIESLING abv: 13% Price: $45 Stift Göttweig 2017 Ried Silberbichl Riesling 94 (Kremstal). Distinct notes of guava and Malat 2017 Ried Silberbicl Riesling (Krem- Proidl 2017 Ried Ehrenfels Reserve Riesling passion fruit signal juicy ripenesss on the nose. The 96 stal). The notion of freshly cut Conference 94 (Kremstal). Ripe pear and lemony bright- palate presents a similarly ripe, juicy picture, where pear peel mixes with hints of zesty lemon and juicy, ness on the nose suggest generous richness. The tropical fruit abounds and is just about tempered by yellow Mirabelle plum on the nose. The palate brings palate is more zesty than expected, giving wonderful lemon freshness. It is the juiciness that wins, and that same juiciness to the fore that unites expres- precision to those burgeoning, juicy and full-fruited lemon does not appear again until the long, appetiz- sive fruitiness with tempering, tart and wonderful notes of pear and Mirabelle plum. Yet there always ing and dry finish. Circo Vino. —A.K. freshness. Beautifully concentrated and squeaky is that welcome zesty citrus to tone and refresh. abv: 13.5% Price: $51 clean. This is a lovely interplay with a zingy, lemony, Lovely bright, zesty and dry finish. Soilair Selec- dry and long finish. Circo Vino. —A.K. tion. —A.K. Türk 2017 Ried Kremser Wachtberg Reserve abv: 13% Price: $50 abv: 13.5% Price: $52 94 Riesling (Kremstal). The merest hint of pas- sion fruit teases on the nose. The palate makes this Malat 2017 Ried Steinbühel Riesling (Krem- Proidl 2017 Ried Hochäcker Reserve Riesling more intense but also adds zesty lemon and lime to 96 stal). Very ripe, very aromatic pear fruit 94 (Kremstal). A touch of reduction, yeasti- proceedings. Yet underlying all is that generosity on the nose has a touch of ripe lemon and an won- ness and fully ripe notes of juicy plum play on the suggested by exotic fruit. This is lovely, aromatic, derfully tempering edge of grapefruit. Juiciness is earthy nose. That yeasty texture still feels creamy bold, slender and zesty. The finish is dry, lip-smack- evident from the start, and the palate presents a on the palate, but the fruit also comes out purer, ing and long. Balanced Wine Selections LLC. Edi- joyfully vivid blend of ripe abandon countered by livelier, fresher and more concentrated. This will tors’ Choice. —A.K. lovely freshness. It is lemony zestiness that wins take a little to come into its own with its concen- abv: 14% Price: $21 over on the finish. This is lip-smacking, textured trated palate, but it’s promising, dry and lovely. and pithy. Circo Vino. —A.K. Drink 2020–2035. Soilair Selection. —A.K. Winzer Krems 2017 Ried Kremser Pfaffen- abv: 13% Price: $45 abv: 14% Price: $45 94 berg Reserve Riesling (Kremstal). For full review see page 6. Salomon-Undhof 2017 Ried Steiner Kögl Salomon-Undhof 2017 Ried Kögl Riesling abv: 14% Price: $27 96 Riesling (Kremstal). A floral tinge, reminis- 94 (Kremstal). Aromas of lemon pith and cent of honeysuckle, plays around the peach fruit freshly cut pear contribute to the zesty nose. The Stadt Krems 2017 Ried Schreck Reserve Ries- that is so evident on the nose. There also is a hint palate continues in this vein, cutting its wonder- 93 ling (Kremstal). Just a hint of passion fruit of candied lemon peel. The palate then adds blood fully juicy, ripe Mirabelle plum fruit with lemony plays with a riper note of yellow plum and zesty orange zest and juicy pear to the aromatic cosmos. vigor. This is zesty, fresh, textured and whistle lemon on the nose. The palate throws these notes All is grouped around a central shaft of zesty, bright, clean, with a dry, lip-smacking finish. Fruit of the in together and the bright lemon freshness high- lemony freshness. The finish is tart, moreish, dry Vines, Inc. —A.K. lights the generous juiciness of the Mirabelle plum and mouthwatering. Drink until 2038. Fruit of the abv: 13.5% Price: $33 and the aromas of the passion fruit. A wonderfully Vines, Inc. —A.K. ripe but slender Riesling with a pleasantly bitter abv: 14% Price: $55 Salomon-Undhof 2017 Ried Pfaffenberg edge and a dry finish. Craft + Estate–The Winebow 94 Riesling (Kremstal). Heady, aromatic cit- Group. —A.K. Nigl 2017 Ried Goldberg Riesling (Kremstal). rus foliage on the nose sets the alluring tone. The abv: 14% Price: $60 95 Ripe Mirabelle plum and red apple fruit are palate follows with almost pliable, soft juiciness. surrounded by aromatic notes of crushed citrus Yes, the lemon zest is there, but it is cushioned by foliage. That alluring headiness continues on the burgeoning stone fruit and ripe Mandarin orange. OTHER RIESLING fresh, juicy, generous body that always has a zesty, This is clean but also rounded and ripe. The zesti- almost salty, mouthwatering edge. Wonderfully ness becomes apparent on the dry, refreshing finish. Wohlmuth 2016 Ried Edelschuh Riesling streamlined and fresh, with a long, zesty and dry Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.K. 96 (Südsteiermark). Lusciously ripe stone finish. Drink until 2035. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $55 fruit, Mirabelle plum and peach on the nose are abv: 13.5% Price: $79 edged with a tender, greenish freshness of crushed Stadt Krems 2017 Schieferterrasssen Ries- citrus foliage. These heady aromatics continue Nigl 2017 Ried Hochäcker Privat Riesling 94 ling (Kremstal). A creamy, plum- and apple- enticingly on the palate, where lemon balm, tanger- 95 (Kremstal). Lovely, aromatic notes of lemon tinged generosity is immediately evident on the ine and orange zest have their merry, juicy, seduc- and bergamot peel play on the nose. The palate nose, countered beautifully by zesty lime. The zesti- tive way. An edge of lemon zest brings focus and comes in with a wonderfully zesty purity that lends ness pervades the entire palate with its freshness steers this beautifully. This is dry, ripe, juicy and tension to the entire palate. Mouthwatering fresh- and texture, giving definition to the juicier side of moreish. Drink now–2029. Schatzi Wines. —A.K. ness lies at the core of this streamlined, citrus-filled the yellow plum notes but creating a racy, concen- abv: 13% Price: $NA trated fruitiness. This is utterly moreish and seduc-

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 Bernhard Ott 2017 Ried Kirchthal Riesling Kracher 2017 Pinot Gris (Burgenland). A sub- 95 (Wagram). Green apple and a little salty PINOT BLANC 91 dued pear juiciness mingles with subtle wood yeastiness play appetizingly on the nose. The pal- smoke on the nose. The palate is juicier and fruitier ate then offers beautifully pure yellow plum fruit Tinhof 2017 Golden Erd Weissburgunder than those aromas suggest, but it also has a lovely that is pervaded by lovely, bright and tart lemony 95 (Burgenland). A beautifully lithe apple and tiptoe lightness and lemony brightness. This is sub- freshness. A wonderfully generous but toned Ries- pear freshness rises from the glass. With a little air, tle, light and elegant with a wonderfully juicy finish. ling with a dry, almost salty finish. Skurnik Wines, a very subtle note of hazelnut appears. The palate Terlato Wines International. —A.K. Inc. —A.K. is rounded and full and has a totally juicy richness abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 12.5% Price: $60 of juicy pear with a wonderful bitter almond edge, despite its wonderfully slender body. This is lovely Artisan Wines DI Franz Scheider 2017 Hajszan Neumann 2017 Ried Steinberg Grinz- now with the exuberance of youth but really needs 90 Reserve Grauburgunder (Burgenland). Gen- 95 ing Riesling (Vienna). An earthy note clings time to unfold and show its lovely texture. Drink tle lemon on the nose has a richer touch of yellow to the juicy, ripe and generous Mirabelle plum fruit 2020–2030. Carlo Huber Selections. —A.K. Mirabelle plum. The palate shows real slenderness on the nose. Very gently a hint of rose petal appears. abv: 13.5% Price: $80 and juicy, spiky and refreshing lemon. The freshness On the palate, it is lemon zestiness that stands is cushioned with a little Mirabelle plum juiciness against a very rich, earthy texture of fine yeast. Prieler 2017 Pinot Blanc (Leithaberg). A hint and a lovely phenolic texture. A light, full-flavored Behind this shimmer notes of fine, pure citrus zest. 94 of toasted hazelnut glints richly from the and fruity Grauburgunder. Steep Hill Importing. A very unusual, textured and arresting Riesling. The glass before sonorous, ripe pear notes appear. The —A.K. long, dry finish speaks of the purest lemon. Won- palate also weaves these sonorous tones together abv: 13% Price: $20 derful. Circo Vino. —A.K. and adds a lovely edge of fine lemon acidity. This abv: 13.5% Price: $NA is elegant, fruity, textured but lithe and made for the long run. Drink 2020–2030. Skurnik Wines, CHARDONNAY Ingrid Groiss 2017 Auf der Henne Reserve Inc. —A.K. 95 Riesling (Niederösterreich). A touch of wet abv: 13.5% Price: $35 Kracher 2015 Kreuz Chardonnay (Burgen- earth grounds the beautifully juicy and aromatic 93 land). Both juicy Mirabelle plum and lemon pear fruit on the nose. The palate takes both earthi- Netzl 2017 Ried Altenberg Weissburgunder provide a counterbalance to oaky creaminess on the ness and pear fruit and twirls them around in a diz- 93 (Carnuntum). Ripe pear fruit on the nose nose. The palate brims with juicy, ripe fruit and cit- zying lemony dazzle. The deliciously tasty zinginess has a hint of hazelnut and smoke. The palate has rus freshness, while creaminess and gentle vanilla is alluring, invigorating and refreshing. A whole, a lovely juicy core, countered by a pithy texture. act as balm. Oak flavors will integrate more over refreshing mouthful of pure freshness and joy with There is so much fruit at the core that juicy Mira- time. Drink 2020–2030. —A.K. a long, dry finish. Drink now–2030. Circo Vino. belle plum peeps through. A lovely and subtle wine abv: 13.5% Price: $NA —A.K. with the gentlest oak. Drink 2020–2030. KWSelec- abv: 13.5% Price: $51 tion.com. —A.K. Esterházy 2017 Chardonnay (Leithaberg). abv: 13.5% Price: $34 92 Lovely lemon and apple peel notes hover on Markus Huber 2017 Ried Berg Riesling the nose. The palate is concentrated and shows both 95 (Traisental). A pure note of ripe Mirabelle Tinhof 2017 Weissburgunder (Leithaberg). creamy texture and spiky lemon freshness. A won- plum mixes with grapefruit zest on the nose. The 93 Very ripe notes of juicy yellow pear have a derful combination that keeps things toned, tex- palate repeats this attractive proposition with even creamy, earthy element on the nose. Their creami- tured but fresh. This will improve with bottle age. more clarity and poise. That tingling, spicy zesti- ness continues on the full-fruited but fresh palate. Drink 2020–2028. Wein Bauer Inc. —A.K. ness pervades the entire palate and shimmers aro- It is that lactic roundness that lingers. The finish abv: 13.5% Price: $29 matically. This is concentrated and brimming with reveals a pleasant pithiness that will stand this in fruit. Drink until 2035. Broadbent Selections, Inc. good stead. Drink 2020–2030. Carlo Huber Selec- Kracher 2015 Blick Chardonnay (Burgen- —A.K. tions. —A.K. 92 land). Flinty, farmyardy smoke tells of abv: 13% Price: $75 abv: 13% Price: $38 reduction. Underneath is juicy fruit. The palate is vivid with bright lemon and the smokiness from the Markus Huber 2017 Ried Rothenbart Reserve Stift Klosterneuburg 2017 Jungherrn Weiss- nose appears here as an accompaniment to the tex- 94 Riesling (Traisental). Slightly subdued 92 burgunder (Vienna). A hint of vanilla and tural richness on the midpalate. A lovely if unusual notes of lemon on the nose get full billing on the ripe banana escape from the rather closed nose. The Chardonnay with immense freshness. —A.K. slender, almost zippy palate. This is so light, it palate then comes in with juicy pear and zesty but abv: 13% Price: $NA dances on tiptoe. The ripe lemon freshness is perva- ripe lemon. This is elegant and wonderfully gas- sive, enlivening and rounded. The finish is dry and tronomic in its unobtrusive versatility. Lovely and wonderfully mouthwatering. Broadbent Selections, subtle. Drink until 2025. Boutique Wine Collection. SAUVIGNON BLANC Inc. —A.K. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Wohlmuth 2016 Ried Edelschuh Sauvi- 95 gnon Blanc (Südsteiermark). The nose is Mayer am Pfarrplatz 2017 Ried Alsegg Her- almost closed but here and there a flicker of pas- 92 nals Riesling (Vienna). Very ripe notes of PINOT GRIS sion fruit appears tantalizingly. The palate is just yellow plum almost have a wonderful apricot tinge as tight and taut, but the gloriously aromatic pas- on the nose, which suggests wonderfully generous Kracher 2016 Reserve Pinot Gris (Burgen- sion fruit shines and shimmers. Purest lemon sets fruit. The slender but still very juicy palate delivers 93 land). Slight smoke, a touch of sonorous a silvery, zesty accent, but all about this bids you and tones it all with wonderful lemon freshness. A vanilla and lemon brightness on the nose find a to be patient. This will blossom in all its freshness rounded but fresh Riesling. MS Walker. —A.K. very balanced expression on the fresh palate. This is with a little bottle age. It holds all of Styria’s dewy abv: 13.5% Price: $28 slender but expressive, lemony but round. A rather freshness. Drink 2022–2032 Schatzi Wines. Cellar attractive proposition that rings with bright, lem- Selection. —A.K. ony freshness and a lovely tinge of smokiness on the abv: 13.5% Price: $NA finish. Terlato Wines International. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $25

WINEMAG.COM | 63

BUYINGGUIDE

Wohlmuth 2016 Ried Hochsteinriegl Sauvi- is unusual but exciting. The concentration alone Hajszan Neumann 2017 Nussberg Ried 94 gnon Blanc (Südsteiermark). On the nose makes this a chief contender for the table. A real 93 Weissleiten (Wiener Gemischter Satz). There the merest whiff of lemon suggests the fruit that and lip-smacking Austrian original. Drink 2022– is a lifted, savory and aromatic edge of crushed ivy broods underneath. The palate has a plump, lim- 2032. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar and lemon balm on the nose that mingles pleasantly pid, glowing ripeness at its core, framed by leafy, Selection. —A.K. with lemon zest. It is the lemon that is most pres- crushed grassiness and vivid, pure lemon. There is abv: 13.5% Price: $45 ent on the zingy, concentrated palate. Both with its something soft and creamy around the edges, too. zesty freshness and its inherent, fruity ripeness. A This needs time to reveal its undoubted splendor. Johanneshof Reinisch 2017 Ried Spiegel Zier- bold and direct but utterly compelling white that Drink 2022–2032. Schatzi Wines. —A.K. 93 fandler (Thermenregion). Hints of wet hay needs food to shine. A kind of soy savoriness returns abv: 13.5% Price: $NA and candied lemon make for an earthy nose. The on the finish. Circo Vino.Editors’ Choice. —A.K. palate is exquisitely fresh and concentrated, play- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Adolf & Heinrich Fuchs 2017 Ried Rossberg ing a high-toned lemon oil note against a rich, tex- 93 Sauvignon Blanc (Steiermark). Gentle, tured background. There is something urgent and Kracher 2016 K (Burgenland). The merest almost emollient notes of passion fruit hover on pervasive about this, which will blossom fully with 93 hint of Damask rose enriches subdued hints the nose. The palate comes in with richer juiciness, a little more bottle age. Drink 2022–2032. Circo of peach and pear, while an edge of vanilla sug- adding hints of baked apricot and lovely lemon Vino. —A.K. gests further, sonorous richness. The palate is rich, freshness. This is pure and serene and will be ready abv: 14% Price: $40 rounded, and almost emollient in texture, brimming with a little bottle age. Drink 2020–2028. Leonard with fresh and baked apple and that calibrated tone Kreusch, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. Stadlmann 2017 Traiskirchen Zierfandler of rich oakiness. A generous, rounded wine that abv: 12.5% Price: $18 92 (Thermenregion). The nose is still closed, needs equally rich food to shine. —A.K. revealing a mere whiff of pleasant earthiness. The abv: 13.5% Price: $NA palate then hits with its concentration, texture and ROTGIPFLER freshness. This is fluid, juicy, rich but exquisitely Mayer am Pfarrplatz 2017 Nussberg (Wiener fresh. If you love textured wines, this Austrian orig- 93 Gemischter Satz). Hay flower, wet earth, Johanneshof Reinisch 2017 Ried Satzing Rot- inal is for you. The finish is zesty and long. —A.K. waxy quince peel and ripe melon combine into a 94 gipfler (Thermenregion). Orange peel, wet abv: 13.5% Price: $NA powerful if earthy nose with a tropical overtone. earth and floral overtones on the nose coalesce into The palate then presents unexpectedly slender a wonderfully aromatic, concentrated unity in the lemon brightness that carries that same passion mouth. The palate has a pleasant oiliness, a juicy, WHITE BLENDS fruit hint as the nose. This is concentrated and live, rich texture that unites richness and freshness at urgent and vivid. Savor that phenolic richness and the sweetest spot. This is both satiating and mouth- Gerhard Pittnauer 2017 Mashpitt (Bur- the long lemon finish. MS Walker. —A.K. watering, fresh and rich. Long live these exciting 94 genland). Slightly cloudy but with an abv: 14% Price: $34 contradictions and this Austrian originality. Circo immensely aromatic nose, this suffuses with orange Vino. —A.K. blossom, white pepper, bruised apple peel and jas- Wieninger 2017 Bisamberg (Wiener Gemis- abv: 14% Price: $40 mine. The palate rings with these aromatics while 93 chter Satz). The slightest whiff of flint hov- remaining utterly slender, utterly poised, utterly ers over herbal fruitiness. There is apple peel, fresh Stadlmann 2017 Tagelsteiner Rotgipfler fresh. This clearly is skin-fermented and thus brings Mirabelle plum, lemon balm and heady yarrow on 94 (Thermenregion). Aromas of red apple, a deliciously bitter phenolic edge. Elderflower hov- the nose. The palate brims with freshness and pres- banana and juicy pear appear on the nose, with an ers. The aromatic purity and floral citrus poise are ents all these aromatic notes with lemony zest and overtone of Damask rose. The palate comes in with astonishing. Lovely. Savio Soares Selections. Edi- freshness. This is concentrated and original. Craft + both oily richness of texture and lemony fresh- tors’ Choice. —A.K. Estate–The Winebow Group. —A.K. ness. Those aromatic hints of rose still rise but it abv: 12% Price: $34 abv: 12.5% Price: $33 is the lovely texture here that cries out for rich, full-­flavored food. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Wieninger 2017 Ried Rosengartl Nussberg Hajszan Neumann 2017 Nussberg (Wiener —A.K. 94 (Wiener Gemischter Satz). A smoky, flinty 92 Gemischter Satz). Linden blossom and ten- abv: 13.5% Price: $38 reduction still hovers on the nose, but both flo- der hints of citrus on the nose promise tenderness, ral overtones and an inherent savoriness shine but the palate surprises with vivid, concentrated Heinrich Hartl 2017 Rotgipfler (Thermenre- through. The palate combines that same smokiness lemon freshness. There is a pleasantly pithy texture 93 gion). Ripe red apple notes have an edge of with a full-flavored palate that has a rich juiciness and a pervasive, enlivening freshness. The finish is orange peel and an attractive waxiness. The palate but at the same time a feel of richly infused tea. refreshing and lip-smacking as this stuffs a whole is immensely concentrated and plays that orange Smoke, texture, fleshy fruit and phenolics lead us in load of flavor into a slender package. Circo Vino. peel and pith game with aromatic and textural a merry, intriguing dance. This is complex and rich —A.K. aplomb. This is full on and highly aromatic with and will need some time in the bottle. Drink 2022– abv: 13% Price: $NA the purest, zingiest and most appetizing finish. Will 2032. Craft + Estate–The Winebow Group. —A.K. benefit from bottle age. Drink 2020–2030. KWSe- abv: 13.5% Price: $50 lection.com. —A.K. OTHER WHITE WINES abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Wieninger 2017 Ried Ulm Nussberg (Wiener 94 Gemischter Satz). Fully ripe, juicy peach Setzer 2017 Wr. Symphoniker and the richness of freshly turned wet earth com- 92 (Niederösterreich). The nose suggests the ZIERFANDLER bine on the aromatic nose. The palate takes these waxy richness of citrus peel, and the palate fans out aromatics in a juicy sweep and them away in generous, pleasingly tart lemon notes against a Stadlmann 2017 Ried Mandel-Höh Zier- with lemon freshness, concentration and sheer lovely rich and against a waxy backdrop of texture 94 fandler (Thermenregion). Gorgeously aro- juiciness. The finish is precise and focused on and mouthfeel. There is a hint of lanolin on the fin- matic hints of baked apple with lemon oil hit the mouthwatering lemon freshness. Oh, Vienna! Drink ish to enrich the lemon notes. Skurnik Wines, Inc. nose. The palate is zingy with bright, untamed 2020–2030. Craft + Estate–The Winebow Group. —A.K. lemon, while the baked apple richness provides Cellar Selection. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $25 a counterbalance of fruitfulness and texture. This abv: 13.5% Price: $40

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 Tinhof 2017 Neuburger (Leithaberg). Earth, Juiciness is the main appeal. The finish is dry and 92 menthol, ripe quince and fresh red apple ZWEIGELT bold. —A.K. with an edge of orange peel create an intriguing and abv: 13% Price: $NA rich nose. The palate continues in this rich vein, Netzl 2016 Ried Haidacker Zweigelt (Car- presenting an almost oily texture against which 94 nuntum). Luscious vanilla notes wrap fresh lemon plays and tingles. The rich fruit flavors themselves around crushed blackberry and dark ST. LAURENT come together, and the finish has a pleasant nutti- cherry on the nose. The palate upholds these twin ness. Carlo Huber Selections. —A.K. aromas but presents them as a kind of easy preview Johanneshof Reinisch 2016 Ried Holzspur St. abv: 13.5% Price: $38 to a much more serious wine. There is density on 95 Laurent (Thermenregion). Cinnamon and the palate, real grip from finely woven tannins and plum notes immediately reach the nose before a Ecker 2017 Ried Steinberg Roter Veltliner a dark, inky heart that still has to unfold. This is more pervasive, dark peony note makes itself felt. 90 (Wagram). The juicy peel of pear is evoked Zweigelt made to last. Drink 2020–2030. KWSe- The concentrated palate presents the finest web on the nose along with a little lemon. The palate is lection.com. —A.K. of sheer tannins, which provide an almost invis- juicy, light and pervaded by lovely tart but ripe cit- abv: 14% Price: $65 ible but nonetheless firm structure against which rus notes. There is something lively and vivid about the sonorous plum fruit can play. A very elegant, this. The finish is totally refreshing. Skurnik Wines, Schloss Gobelsburg 2016 Reserve Zweigelt fine-boned wine that will reward with a little bottle Inc. —A.K. 94 (Niederösterreich). A heady, perfumed note aging. Lovely freshness pervades all. Drink 2022– abv: 13.5% Price: $20 of peony-tinged cherry has an exciting frisson of 2032. Circo Vino. Cellar Selection. —A.K. white pepper about it. The palate continues with abv: 13.5% Price: $90 Uwe Schiefer 2017 Weisser Schiefer Wel- a silky, red-fruited spiciness that marks out deli- 90 schriesling (Burgenland). A hint of quince cious cool-climate reds. There is concentration and Trapl 2016 Reserve St. Laurent (Carnun- and wet stone on the nose turns into fully fleshed density at the core of this honest Zweigelt. Skurnik 94 tum). The dark allure of elderberry and fruit on the concentrated yet light palate. There is Wines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. black cherry has to be teased out on the nose. It quince pervaded by lemon and a lovely, almost oily, abv: 13.5% Price: $39 is the elderberry that gives this a medicinal, her- slightly phenolic richness. This is a wonderful and baceous tinge. The palate is wonderfully and entic- fruity but, above all, textured white. The finish is R&A Pfaffl 2016 Burg Reserve Zweigelt (Nie- ingly tart at first but then presents the purity of vivid with lemon. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. 91 derösterreich). Luscious waves of vanilla roll ripe, black cherry. Tannins are fine and have a little abv: 11% Price: $17 across the senses in a note of velvety, dark berry crunch, and pervasive freshness keeps this elegant fruit. The palate continues with this dark velvet and sinuous. Drink 2020–2030. —A.K. Kracher 2016 (Burgenland). theme, imbuing it with rich, spicy black cherry and abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 89 A faint note of Mirabelle plum and lemon blackberry. This is easy, present, smooth and round. on the nose attain a pliable, concentrated freshness Taub Family Selections. —A.K. Johanneshof Reinisch 2016 Ried Frauenfeld on the palate. There is freshness and lightness but abv: 13.5% Price: $40 93 St. Laurent (Thermenregion). A lovely note also lots of Mirabelle plum and lemon flavor with of black cherry has a vivid hint of tar on the nose. very refreshing length. —A.K. Setzer 2016 Zweigelt (Burgenland). Lus- The concentrated palate also brims with a bridled, abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 90 cious blackberry, tar, a hint of licorice and contained juiciness that just waits to burst its black pepper leap from the glass in a most appe- banks. The fruit is dark and alluring with a prom- tizing fashion. The wonderfully dry palate sets its ising, juicy undertow. This is elegant, fruit-driven SPARKLING ROSÉ fruity, light but dense body against that, delivering and wonderfully brooding. Circo Vino. —A.K. a back-fruited, spicy and refreshing red. Skurnik abv: 13% Price: $40 Gerhard Pittnauer 2017 Pitt Nat Rosé (Wein- Wines, Inc. —A.K. 92 land Österreich). Creaminess on the nose has abv: 13.5% Price: $NA R&A Pfaffl 2016 Alten Reserve St. Laurent the peppery edge of just ripe red fruit, reminiscent 93 (Niederösterreich). Wet earth and graphite of savory rose hip and red currant. There clearly Winzer Krems 2016 Kellermeister Reserve on the nose for now mask the black plum fruit that is a little funk on the nose, but the light palate is 90 Zweigelt (Niederösterreich). Fleshy but is so concentrated and juicy on the palate. The den- a hedonistic, weightless moment of uncommon, tart red cherry on the nose turns into a juicy, easy, sity on the palate has aromatic edges of cinnamon, creamy, fizzy lightness. The wine seems weightless, bouncy red that brims with red and black cherry but this needs to relax. Give it some bottle age, and fresh and wonderfully red-fruited with its tender fruit. This is easy, dry and joyful, and it has a lovely velvety, rich folds of dark plum will unfold. Drink tartness. Frivolous perhaps, but delicious, light and grip and full freshness on the mouthwatering finish. 2020–2030. Taub Family Selections. —A.K. dry, too. Savio Soares Selections. —A.K. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $40 abv: 10.5% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Schloss Gobelsburg 2016 Reserve St. Laurent Gunter Triebaumer 2017 Zweigelt (Burgen- 93 (Niederösterreich). Smoke and a gamelike, ROSÉ 89 land). A hint of vanilla appears amid notes funky bitterness on the nose suggest dark-fruited of crushed black cherry and blackberry. The palate sophistication. The palate, on the other hand, Gerhard Pittnauer 2017 Dogma Rosé (Wein- burgeons with fleshy black cherry fruit that could brims with vivid freshness and wonderfully tart 89 land Österreich). A dusky pink hue promises do with a little more precision, but the fruit, texture black fruit. There are lovely tannins, reminiscent of fruit, but the nose delivers an almost meaty earthi- and grip are out in combined force. Lovely freshness starched linen, that crunch satisfyingly on the pal- ness. The bone-dry, light palate then adds hints of on the finish. Magellan Wine Imports. —A.K. ate. There’s lots of freshness on the palate and fin- rhubarb and fleshy, ripe, crushed strawberry. Its abv: 13% Price: $19 ish. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. chief virtues are lightness, ease and a wonderfully abv: 13% Price: $39 dry finish. Savio Soares Selections. —A.K. Kracher 2015 Zweigelt (Burgenland). Really abv: 12.5% Price: $23 89 dark, black cherry has an overtone of tar. Steindorfer 2016 Reserve St. Laurent (Bur- The palate brings in lighter notes of cherry and 93 genland). An aromatic hint of wood smoke presents itself with an easy, rather fleshy ripeness. tinges the dark, ripe and juicy hints of plum on the nose. The palate continues in that same, fleshy, generous but textured aromatic vein. A lovely and

WINEMAG.COM | 65

BUYINGGUIDE elegant wine of medium weight with pleasantly brims with dense, ripe, black fruit but is pervaded a little more bottle age. Drink 2020–2035. Cellar crunching, fine tannins. KWSelection.com. —A.K. by a sprightly, enlivening, soaring freshness that Selection. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $37 brightens this and makes for a lovely contrast. The abv: 12.5% Price: $NA tannins are firm but fine, the body is elegant and Forstreiter 2016 Reserve St. Laurent (Nie- fresh. Lovely now but sure to evolve. Drink until Trapl 2016 Ried Spitzerberg Blaufränkisch 92 derösterreich). Dark plum, black cherry and 2035. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. 95 (Carnuntum). The nose is closed but has the a hint of wood smoke make for an appetizing nose. abv: 14% Price: $69 faintest trace of peony perfume. The palate is like a On the palate, there is a bouncy vein of freshness tight, compact nugget of fruit, spice and splendor that enlivens the inherent generosity, juiciness and Nittnaus Anita und Hans 2016 Ried Lange that needs to unfold. While the aromas still slum- softness of this fruit. This is concentrated, juicy, 96 Ohn Blaufränkisch (Leithaberg). Dark, aro- ber, the palate displays textural elegance and a firm fresh and bold with its dark-fruited charm. Freder- matic cherry has a lovely floral softness about it on gauze of fine tannin. Wait for this; all is promised ick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. the nose. The palate comes in with an enlivening, and will blossom into elegance. Drink 2022–2030. abv: 13% Price: $23 dark-fruited freshness but also something gentle Cellar Selection. —A.K. and smooth. The poised balance of blueberry fruit, abv: 13% Price: $NA Stift Klosterneuburg 2016 Ausstich St. Lau- cashmere tannins and sinuousness elevates this to 92 rent (Thermenregion). Juicy, fleshy black total elegance. Blueberries and cinnamon own the Artner 2016 Ried Kirchweingarten Reserve cherry notes hit the nose with a pure, bright force. gently grippy, long finish. Drink until 2030. Fred- 94 Blaufränkisch (Carnuntum). A nose of On the palate, the fruit is just as intense, just a juicy, erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. crushed blackberries and blueberries and luscious emboldened by hints of licorice and tar, producing abv: 13.5% Price: $45 black cherries has a hint of tar and a lift of oaky a pleasant edge of bitterness. The soft tannins are spice. The concentrated palate is dense with the glossy and guided by a central vein of freshness. Prieler 2015 Ried Goldberg Blaufränkisch same, dark and brooding fruit, and the tannins have Boutique Wine Collection. —A.K. 96 (Leithaberg). The merest hint of mocha a fine but firm grip, while new oak gives a high-gloss abv: 13% Price: $NA accompanies the crushed fruit of the forest aro- finish. A polished, international style, but made mas on the appetizing nose. Ripe blueberry notes with aplomb and elegance. Drink until 2030. Vint- Schödl 2016 Reserve St. Laurent (Niederös- expand on the palate, which is dense with fruit and ners Alliance. —A.K. 90 terreich). Black cherry and dark plum are so firm tannins that leave the mouth a little dry. This abv: 14% Price: $45 fleshy on the nose that they suggest a body of utter is sleek but muscular, bold but elegant. It also needs generosity. The palate indeed delivers with fleshy, time to mellow a little. Drink 2022–2032. Skurnik Hillinger 2016 Blaufränkisch (Leithaberg). burgeoning and juicy ripeness. The texture is vel- Wines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —A.K. 94 The exquisite freshness of tart, red cherry vety; the fruit is full, if a little one-dimensional. abv: 13.5% Price: $105 mingles with the perfume of cinnamon-sprinkled Coeur Wine Co. —A.K. blueberries. The palate then presents wonderfully abv: 13.5% Price: $29 Uwe Schiefer 2014 Szapary Blaufränkisch ripe but tart fruits of the forest, again with that 96 (Burgenland). Blueberry, pepper, cinnamon lovely cinnamon inflection. The body is sinuous, and a seductive, gamy lift promise pleasure and slender but firm. The finish is gloriously spicy. A BLAUFRÄNKICSH unusual pervasiveness. The palate obliges with an very elegant wine. KWSelection.com. —A.K. incisive but plummy palate that brims with exu- abv: 13% Price: $39 Prieler 2015 Ried Marienthal Blaufränkisch berant sprays of white pepper. An underlying cool- 97 (Leithaberg). Cinnamon and tar tinge ness provides calm and serene freshness. The firm Prieler 2016 Blaufränkisch (Leithaberg). A crushed black- and blueberry fruit on the rich nose. tannins structure is very fine and needs to mellow. 94 light lift of polished wood precedes a nose of The palate comes in with the same richness and What elegance, what spice, what slender concen- crushed blueberry and plum with the added allure generosity. This is big and bold but captures the tration to look forward to. Individualistic but com- of cinnamon. The palate is dense with this dark but fine, dark and almost brooding fruit well amid the pletely convincing. Drink until 2030. Weygandt- fresh and pure fruit that has an uncommon, lico- muscle and undoubted structure. The fine tannins Metzler. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. rice-tinted juiciness at its core. Fine tannins leave almost settle like a veil, while a lively energy pul- abv: 13% Price: $51 a lovely grip, while berry freshness makes this infi- sates at the core of this powerful, age-worthy wine. nitely moreish. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. Give this time. Drink 2025–2040. Skurnik Wines, Muhr-Van der Niepoort 2016 Prellenkirchen abv: 13.5% Price: $50 Inc. Cellar Selection. —A.K. 95 Liebkind Blaufränkisch (Carnuntum). The abv: 13.5% Price: $105 smallest, ripest and juiciest wild blueberries are Steindorfer 2016 Reserve Blaufränkisch evoked on the alluring nose. A hint of cedar pro- 94 (Burgenland). Beautifully pure and lifted Muhr-Van der Niepoort 2016 Ried Spitzer- vides an aromatic edge. The palate is just as juicy as notes of ripe red cherry rise from the glass. The pal- 96 berg Blaufränkisch (Carnuntum). A heady, the nose suggests and brims with energetic, lively ate adds a good sprinkling of cinnamon and plum, floral note of violet and peony hovers above the and pure fruitiness. The tannins are firm but take a while freshness and a fine tannic web frame the scents of tart, bright red fruit. The palate gives a back seat to the lively, exuberant fruit. Underneath lovely, pure fruit. This is juicy, slender and elegant, slightly darker aspect of blueberry to the brisk cran- is calm, inherent balance and quiet elegance. Blue with a gentle grip on the fresh and aromatic finish. berry and red currant notes, while both white pep- Danube Wine Co. —A.K. KWSelection.com. —A.K. per and cinnamon shimmer. The body is sinuous, abv: 13% Price: $70 abv: 13.5% Price: $34 guided by the finest tannins and pervaded by an immensely uplifting freshness. The lovely, mouth- Trapl 2016 Reserve Blaufränkisch (Carnun- Esterházy 2016 Blaufränkisch (Leithaberg). watering grip becomes apparent on the finish. Silky, 95 tum). The nose is rather closed and lets 93 A hint of smoke glints above the blueberry slender and oh so seductive. Drink 2022–2035. nothing but a hint of red currant escape. The palate and plum fruit on the nose. That aromatic, gentle Blue Danube Wine Co. Cellar Selection. —A.K. also is still tightly coiled but slowly reveals a deeply smokiness also envelopes the lovely, dark fruit on abv: 13% Price: $80 aromatic hinterland of velvety, stewed plum sharp- the palate, creating a sense of serenity and elegance. ened by Morello cherry and red currant. Very fine Fine tannins carry the medium body well, while the Nittnaus Anita und Hans 2016 Ried Jungen- tannins give as much structure as the bright acid- inherent berry tartness brightens the entire wine. 96 berg Blaufränkisch (Leithaberg). A dark, ity. This is a reluctant charmer, holding back. It will Lovely. Wein Bauer Inc. —A.K. lifted nose reveals juicy, crushed dark berries, black be a lot easier to coax its undoubted merits with abv: 13.5% Price: $35 cherries and a tinge of tar and licorice. The palate

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 Gunter Triebaumer 2016 Ried Oberer Wald palate. But the fruit brings freshness and a juicy nins are present but fine, brushing gently against 93 Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). A hint of core. Gentle hints of oak add a little cinnamon spice, the tongue. Such an elegant and moreish wine. leather mixes with a lick of vanilla on the nose. The while freshness characterizes the finish. Wein Bauer Nothing is heavy; all is balance. Drink now–2028. palate then spreads with crushed blackberry fruit Inc. —A.K. KWSelection.com. —A.K. and wonderfully dense tannins that crunch pleas- abv: 13.5% Price: $45 abv: 14% Price: $39 antly into soft velvet. A muscular, bold but still completely elegant red with wonderful nuances of Gunter Triebaumer 2017 Blaufränkisch (Bur- Heinrich Hartl 2015 Graf Weingartl Pinot Noir spice and a firm structure. Drink now–2029. Circo 91 genland). A hint of iron oxide on the nose, 93 (Thermenregion). A dark, intense allure of Vino. —A.K. compared with the dark crushed berry fruit on the black cherry, clove and licorice on the nose promises abv: 14.5% Price: $NA nose almost has something of blood about it. The a concentrated palate. The mouth has all the prom- dense palate puckers the mouth with its firm tan- ised dark fruit and more than a hint of salty licorice, Jalits 2016 Ried Szapary Reserve Blaufrän- nins and fine freshness. This is boyish, bold and but the body remains slender and silky, with juicy 93 kisch (Eisenberg). Hints of tar cling to the supremely juicy and appetizing. Circo Vino. —A.K. flavors of cherry and kirsch. This is dark allure pre- dark berry fruits on the nose, aided by a tinge of abv: 13.5% Price: $NA sented with measured elegance. Drink 2022–2030. licorice. The berries take over on the medium palate KWSelection.com. Cellar Selection. —A.K. with their crushed fruit juiciness. The tannins are Jalits 2017 Blaufränkisch (Eisenberg). A con- abv: 14% Price: $49 still a little rustic, but they also provide traction on 91 densed sense of pure, black cherry and glints the fruity palate. This is a bit boisterous now but of crushed blackberry on the nose promises density. Johanneshof Reinisch 2016 Grillenhügel will smooth out. Drink 2020–2030. KWSelection. The palate delivers full-on almost fleshy cherry 93 Pinot Noir (Thermenregion). A closed nose com. —A.K. fruit. There is a pleasant lactic edge and a firm mesh reveals nothing but some promising, autumnal abv: 13.5% Price: $39 of fine tannins. A little boyish but totally fruit for- earthiness. The palate, however, delivers some of ward. KWSelection.com. —A.K. that earthy, red-fruit-tinged Pinot allure that is Reunion - GSK GmbH 2015 Passion Blau- abv: 13% Price: $19 so reminiscent of wet oak leaves and undergrowth. 93 fränkisch (Burgenland). Polished wood and The body is light and elegant, and yet comes with a slight smoke on the nose for now almost conceal Uwe Schiefer 2015 Vom Blauen Schiefer Blau- convincing, pervasive freshness. A lovely Pinot Noir the dark fruit. The palate then presents blueberry 91 fränkisch (Eisenberg). A gamy, animalistic to go with roast game or smoked meat. Circo Vino. and plum with inherent freshness and lively verve. funk hangs on the nose and leaves an almost medic- —A.K. The body remains slender but is also dense and inal impression. The slender, juicy palate with its abv: 13% Price: $40 juicy, with fine tannins brushing gently against the bright, fresh cherry notes is also tinged with this tongue. This is lovely, bold and elegant. Yountville rustic spiciness. The body is taut and refreshing. Loimer 2016 Gumpoldskirchen Pinot Noir Wine Imports. —A.K. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. 93 (Niederösterreich). Cherry fruit on the nose abv: 14% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $26 has a darker, brooding aspect. The palate is dense without being heavy. A tight structure of fine tan- Uwe Schiefer 2015 Königsberg Blaufränkisch nins and some new oak is apparent and promises 93 (Burgenland). The brooding nose gives hints PINOT NOIR future pleasure. Keep this in bottle for a while for it of elderberry, tar, cinnamon and blueberry and a to integrate fully. Dark, alluring fruit is the promise. floral overtone of peony. The palate is brighter than Johanneshof Reinisch 2016 Holzspur Pinot Drink 2022–2030. Craft + Estate–The Winebow the sultry nose suggests and brims with an almost 95 Noir (Thermenregion). A rather subtle nose Group. Cellar Selection. —A.K. red-fruited freshness. The fine tannins weave a reveals only some crisp, red cherry fruit. The palate abv: 13% Price: $40 wonderful frame for this pure, bright, enticing fruit. has a similar but promising reluctance. Everything The inherent varietal pepperiness starts shining on here is crisp, tart and reminiscent of red currant Malat 2016 Reserve Pinot Noir (Niederöster- the tart, moreish finish. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. and cranberry. There is aromatic depth and a trans- 93 reich). Juicy, ripe cherry mingles with subtle abv: 13% Price: $22 lucent purity. Only later does the smokiness of oak wood smoke on the nose. The palate has freshness envelope that lovely fruit, while fine tannins effect and rounded cherry notes in equal measure. There Gunter Triebaumer 2016 Reserve Blaufrän- a gentle grip. This needs bottle age but will blos- is lovely depth and a well-knitted structure that 92 kisch (Burgenland). Brooding black cherry som into an elegant, light-footed Pinot Noir. Drink promises a bright future for this still grippy wine. abounds on the nose. The palate is dense with fleshy 2022–2030. Circo Vino. Cellar Selection. —A.K. Subtle hints of Amarena cherry provide even more black cherry and a brush of firm tannins. This is abv: 13.5% Price: $90 allure. A measured, elegant Pinot that will ben- inky and dark, but a bright seam of freshness lifts efit from bottle age. Drink 2022–2030. Circo Vino. this beautifully and adds a very moreish juiciness. Anton Bauer 2016 Reserve Limited Edition —A.K. Circo Vino. —A.K. 94 Pinot Noir (Wagram). Pure, tart red currant abv: 13% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $NA on the nose is softened by gentle almond and vanilla notes. On the translucent palate, those same poles Fritsch 2016 P Pinot Noir (Wagram). A cer- Reunion - GSK GmbH 2015 Vision Blaufrän- manage to unite: the tart, crisp freshness of the fruit 92 tain gaminess pervades the nose with its 92 kisch (Burgenland). A mellow nose of red and the rounded, fluid softness of the vanilla with animal notes. Underneath there is lovely and ample cherry and crushed blueberry has the merest hint a pleasant whiff of smoke. The body remains light, tart red fruit. The palate is wonderfully light and of polished mahogany and tar. The palate bears out the tannins are silky, and pepper shimmers around tart, shimmering with notes of cranberry and red a full-bodied expanse of vanilla-drenched, crushed the edges. This is harmonious, elegant and poised. currant. The tannins are fine and silkily woven into blueberry. This is dense, bold, round smooth and Drink 2020–2030. KWSelection.com. —A.K. the wine. Lovely lightness and freshness abound. warming. A very generous, rounded, dense wine. abv: 14% Price: $59 Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. Yountville Wine Imports. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $45 abv: 14% Price: $55 Heinrich Hartl 2016 Reserve Pinot Noir 94 (Thermenregion). Dark and beguiling Loimer 2016 Langenlois Pinot Noir (Nie- Esterházy 2016 Ried Föllig Blaufränkisch notes of elderberry hover on the nose. The palate 92 derösterreich). The nose does not want to 91 (Leithaberg). Notes of crushed blueberry and is fresh and vivid and marries that elderberry with give much away, but there are hints of red cherry. plum rise from the glass. These fruity notes con- juicy, ripe cherry. The body is light, spicy and fluid, The palate is still tight but presents that gentle red tinue with less focus on the fleshy, slightly diffuse revealing both pepper and hints of clove. The tan- cherry fruit in a very measured, elegant and silky

WINEMAG.COM | 67

BUYINGGUIDE fashion. The body has inherent lightness, but its five in the bottle. Drink 2023–2030. Weygandt- Hillinger 2015 Hillside (Burgenland). The depth and juiciness are undoubted. Lovely. Drink Metzler. —A.K. 93 concentration of the dark fruit already 2020–2030. Craft + Estate–The Winebow Group. abv: 14% Price: $35 seems to pervade the still shy nose. The palate fol- —A.K. lows in a sinuous and shapely fashion. There is an abv: 12.5% Price: $40 Arachon 2016 Evolution T FX T (Burgen- inherent, welcome freshness that is a counterpoint 94 land). Cinnamon, plum and blueberry send to a milky lick of chocolate and aromatic cacao. The Schloss Gobelsburg 2016 Reserve Pinot Noir aromatic waves from the glass. The palate is rich fruit peeps through with animating black cherry 92 (Niederösterreich). A touch of smoke plays and smooth but also shows inherent freshness and glints. KWSelection.com. —A.K. over crunchy, crisp red cherry and cranberry fruit a crunchy, fine tannin structure. A juiciness starts abv: 13% Price: $29 on the nose. On the palate that same crunchy, tart to seep through these fine strictures and fills the red fruit expands beautifully, while that smokiness senses with joy. Density, fruit, tannin—all is there Netzl 2016 Edles Tal (Carnuntum). Smoky, adds a darker allure. Freshness pervades and makes in a very elegant, fresh fashion. The finish is long 93 mellow plum sets the tone on the nose. for an elegant Pinot that will benefit from some with juicy blueberry. Lovely now but will develop. The taut, dense, contained palate speaks of power bottle age. Drink 2021–2028. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Drink now–2030. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. as much as of freshness. There is sumptuousness —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $25 inside, but that needs to reveal its dark charms abv: 13% Price: $39 slowly. Fine tannins give structure and lasting Arachon 2015 Evolution T FX T (Burgen- power. Drink 2022–2032. KWSelection.com. —A.K. Stift Klosterneuburg 2016 Steinfeld Pinot 94 land). Lifted notes of cinnamon mingle abv: 14% Price: $39 90 Noir (Thermenregion). Both ripe, red cherry with savory hints of soy against a backdrop of ripe and black tar are equally present on the smoky nose. blueberry and plum fruit. The palate is dense and Kracher 2015 Blend Eins (Burgenland). Notes The slender palate also derives some edge from that concentrated but smooth. Fruit and spice take turns 91 of tar and licorice combined with some red tarriness, but the tannins are fine and in line with and provide a wonderfully mellow game. Inherent fruit are all that the nose gives away at this moment. the bright, ripe, red but crunchy cherry fruit. This is freshness balances all these riches beautifully. Wey- The palate is juicy and mellow, with a rounded, soft slender, fresh and beautifully red-fruited. Boutique gandt-Metzler. —A.K. fruit expression of berry compote. A veil of fine tan- Wine Collection. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 nins provides a gentle grip and structure as the fruit abv: 13.5% Price: $NA notes become ever darker to recall black currant. Netzl 2016 Anna-Christina Ried Bärnreiser Dense, fresh and full fruited. —A.K. Forstreiter 2016 Reserve Pinot Noir (Nie- 94 (Carnuntum). Beautifully fresh notes of ripe abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 89 derösterreich). Fleshy, juicy, ripe red cherry blueberry pervade nose and palate. A hint of cinna- abounds on the nose. The palate is equally juicy mon hovers. The palate is juicy despite its wonder- Kracher 2014 Blend Zwei (Burgenland). A and bold, with almost overflowing ripeness. There fully taut structure, which has wonderful freshness. 89 fleshy note of juicy ripeness plays on the is palpable warmth and exuberant fruitiness, while There is density as well as elegance, and beautifully nose alongside a tender, red-fruited perfume. The soft, pliable tannins lend a frame to this generosity. captured fruit. Lovely and promising. Drink 2020– palate fills that promise of juiciness with its buoy- Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. 2030. KWSelection.com. —A.K. ant red and black cherry fruit, countered with some abv: 13.5% Price: $24 abv: 14% Price: $69 freshness. There could be more focus, but the spot- light clearly is on full-fruited expression. —A.K. Heinrich Hartl 2017 Classic Pinot Noir (Ther- Nittnaus Anita und Hans 2016 Comondor abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 89 menregion). Fully ripe, red cherry sets the 94 (Burgenland). The nose does not yet want tone on nose and palate. The body has an alluring to give too much away. The palate, likewise, needs light-footed freshness and just the right amount of time. There is plenty of fruit here: Plum and blue- OTHER RED WINES grip. Juicy fruit is unburdened and expressive. A berry abound but are still tightly held in firm yet very honest Pinot Noir for every day. KWSelection. nonetheless juicy body, with ample density and Stadlmann 2017 Traiskirchen Auslese Zier- com. —A.K. freshness. Tannins are fine on the elegant body. This 94 fandler (Thermenregion). Dried white cur- abv: 12.5% Price: $24 will blossom but needs time. Drink 2022–2035. rant fruit, golden sultana and blossom honey notes Elegance is guaranteed. Frederick Wildman & Sons, combine with lifted candied lemon peel on the nose. Hillinger 2015 Terroir Pinot Noir (Burgen- Ltd. —A.K. The sweetish palate walks a delicious and exciting 89 land). Ripe notes of red and black cherry abv: 14% Price: $69 tightrope between honeyed richness and laser- almost have a jammy overtone. On the palate the sharp lemon freshness. The texture makes all of this cherry fruit is fresh but attains a darker aspect of Esterházy 2016 Estoras (Burgenland). Some juicy, limpid, concentrated and rich. That sweet and plum and more black cherry. The body is smooth 93 graphite blends in with a hint of blueberry fresh balance is outstanding and will demand either and shows some smokiness from oak. KWSelection. on the still subdued nose. The palate is taut and a tart fruit dessert or a platter of mature, aromatic com. —A.K. dense, fine tannins are finely meshed and ripe, and cheese. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $69 dark fruit seeps through, tempered by inherent abv: 12.5% Price: $38 freshness. This is elegant, structured and full bod- ied but needs time. Drink 2020–2030. Wein Bauer Gunter Triebaumer 2016 Ried Gillesberg RED BLENDS Inc. —A.K. 93 Cabernet Franc (Burgenland). Cinnamon abv: 13.5% Price: $25 and vanilla notes richly combine with plum, graph- Arachon 2013 Alte Reben Reserve (Burgen- ite and tar on a powerful nose. The palate is juicy 95 land). Smoke, tar and a very pure note of Gerhard Pittnauer 2015 Pittnauski (Burgen- and delivers plum and dark berry in spades. Tan- wild blueberry dance promisingly on the nose. The 93 land). Tar and smoke provide a mere edge nins are fine, dense and mouthcoating, for now they dense and powerful palate adds a creamy vanilla to the plum fruit on the nose. The still taut palate dominate the palate but will calm down with bottle note and rolls smoothly over the tongue with con- presents a picture of dark fruit, fine tannin and an age. This is very international and glossy in style, centrated mellowness. This still needs time to relax. edge of mocha. This is dense and will relax with but there is a wonderful spine of freshness that Dense, ripe tannins need to loosen, fruit needs to just a little bottle age. Freshness is guaranteed, as catapults this into real quality. Drink 2022–2032. unfold. A very glossy, international style, but its is juicy, licorice-scented fruit. Drink 2020–2030. Magellan Wine Imports. —A.K. power is tempered by elegance. Released after five Savio Soares Selections. —A.K. abv: 15% Price: $NA years of barrel aging, this can easily take another abv: 13% Price: $27

68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 Muhr-Van der Niepoort 2016 Sydhang Syrah and flavors of orange and lime pith round out the Chamonix 2017 Unoaked Chardonnay (Fran- 93 (Carnuntum). It’s that mix of black olive feel, with a subtle yet lingering richness and toasty 89 schhoek). This is bright and tropical in tapenade, pepper and blueberry with just a whis- accent to the close. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. nature, with a lovely top note of pineapple and fresh per of violet that almost with drumrolls announces abv: 13% Price: $41 peach. It’s vibrant and fruit-forward on the nose, Syrah. On the palate this is taut, dark and tart. with just a touch of fresh straw in the back. The pal- While it still needs to unfurl and develop, the Paul Cluver 2016 Estate Chardonnay (Elgin). ate is light and easy, with a touch of sweetness to unfolding floral perfume promises greatness. There 92 A medium-intense nose of lightly toasted the ripe fruit flavors but plenty of acidity to keep it is enough grip and freshness to make it last. Drink apple, orange rind, fresh yellow melon and a touch fresh and enliven the finish. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. 2022–2032. Blue Danube Wine Co. —A.K. of sweet spice sets the stage for this beautiful Chard, abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $50 with secondary hints of fresh straw and pressed yel- low flower. The medium-weight palate shows great Graham Beck 2015 The Game Reserve Char- balance and cut, with bright acidity and precise cit- 87 donnay (Robertson). Baked apple flesh, SOUTH AFRICA rus and green fig flavors that carry through to the orange, ripe yellow melon, lemon custard and evolving finish. It all ends with a delicate kiss of creamed corn all abound on the nose of this wine. CHARDONNAY peach-pit nuttiness. Pascal/Schildt Selections. Edi- It’s plush and round on the palate, with more rich tors’ Choice. —L.B. fruit flavors that match the bouquet and carry Ataraxia 2016 Chardonnay (Hemel-en-Aarde abv: 13.5% Price: $25 through to the close. There’s enough acidity to lift 93 Ridge). This is a stunning wine, with superb the ripe fruit flavors and keep the finish fresh. Mari- complexity and great balance between the ripe fruit De Wetshof 2017 Bon Vallon Chardonnay time Wine Trading Collective. Best Buy. —L.B. characteristics and the lightly toasty, sweet spice 91 (Robertson). There are pretty praline and abv: 13.5% Price: $12 elements. Notes of yellow melon, sweet orange, fresh straw accents to the nose of this wine, with a honeysuckle and almond paste are rich and satisfy- core of fresh orange rind, yellow apple, lime, bees- ing, but by no means fat or overdone. It’s medium in wax and a touch of honeydew. The medium-weight weight, with bright acidity and a pronounced min- palate offers similar flavors as the nose suggests, but erality that lends focus and definition. The finish is with great acidity to keep it all fresh and in balance. Beaumont 2017 Hope Marguerite Chenin fresh and vibrant, starting with crisp citrus flavors Subtle toasty accents unfold on the close, but are 93 Blanc (Bot River). Fresh fynbos, Asian pear, that evolve into a spiced orange-tea tone before short lived thanks to the vibrant acidity that picks ginger root, green melon and fig tones form the landing on a succulent tone of cedar-grilled apple. it all right back up. Broadbent Selections, Inc. Edi- nose of this lovely wine, with pretty honeysuckle, Red Wolf Imports. —L.B. tors’ Choice. —L.B. orange blossom and beeswax accents all dancing in abv: 13% Price: $39 abv: 13% Price: $18 the background. The medium-weight palate boasts some opulence and roundness in the ripe, sweet Leeu Passant 2016 Chardonnay (Stellen- Babylonstoren 2016 Chardonnay (Simons- citrus, melon and fig tones, but it’s masterfully bal- 93 bosch). Light scents of hazelnut, fresh hon- 90 berg-Paarl). This is quite concentrated, anced by superbly bright and laser-focused acidity. eycomb and ginger root sit atop the fruit core of with scents of waxy melon, apple skin and some Balanced and harmonious, with a long finish, this Asian pear, pineapple core and green melon, with orange rind and flesh leading the bouquet. A back- is delicious now, but shows some serious long-term secondary waves of sweet lime leaf and Honey- ground hint of wet clay adds even more depth. The potential. Drink now–2028. Broadbent Selections, crisp apple. The balanced and focused palate shows palate is round and plush, but with ample acidity to Inc. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. nice precision, with bright acidity and an exuber- counter the weight and ripe fruit flavors. A pleasant abv: 12.5% Price: $40 ant saline spray that carries through to the finish. pithy citrus tone lends some textural interest to the Notes of lemon curd, lime pith and melon rind lead close. Catamarca Imports LLC. —L.B. Bellingham 2017 The Old Orchards Chenin the close, which then evolves into decadent tones abv: 14% Price: $40 91 Blanc (Paarl). For full review see page 10. of lightly toasted apple skin and peach pit. Skurnik Editors’ Choice. Wines, Inc. —L.B. Boschendal 2016 Appellation Series Char- abv: 14% Price: $17 abv: 14% Price: $75 90 donnay (Elgin). For full review see page 13. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Bellingham 2016 The Old Orchards Chenin De Wetshof 2017 Lesca Chardonnay (Robert- 90 Blanc (Paarl). Faint aromas of fresh honey- 92 son). This is a pretty, clean, bright and well- Chamonix 2015 Chardonnay (Franschhoek). comb and beeswax set the stage of this wine’s bou- balanced Chardonnay. It leads with scents of fresh 90 Subtle aromas of grilled apple, peach pit quet, with notes of lightly grilled red apple, straw, red apple, crunchy melon rind, lemon balm and a and ripe yellow melon set the stage on the nose of dried orange rind and a touch of whole sweet spice touch of beeswax. Medium in weight, the ripe fruit this wine, with a touch of dried hay in the back. The following suit. The medium-weight palate boasts a flavors and soft toasty elements are enlivened by medium-weight palate is smooth in feel, with just a ripe fruit core that’s lifted by vibrant acidity and a great minerality and a vibrant acidic cut that carries subtle textural grip of citrus pith and ample acidity zippy texture that leaves you ready for more on the through to the mouthwatering finish. Faint touches to lift the ripe fruit flavors. It’s well-balanced and finish. It’s well-balanced and easy to like, with a of toasted almond and pressed yellow flower appear integrated, with lingering hints of sweet spice and pleasant textural spice on the evolving close. Pacific on the finish. Broadbent Selections, Inc.Editors’ toast. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. Highway Wines & Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. Choice. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $30 abv: 14% Price: $17 abv: 13% Price: $22 B Vintners 2016 Fire Heath Chardonnay Boschkloof 2016 Patatsfontein Enkel Wing- Hamilton Russell 2017 Chardonnay (Hemel- 89 (Walker Bay). Light aromas of lime, green 90 erd Steen Chenin Blanc (Montagu). The 92 en-Aarde Valley). There’s a beautiful floral fig, apple and freshly dried straw form the bouquet bouquet of this interesting, supertextural wine lift to the nose of this wine, as fresh-pressed white of this dainty wine. The palate is clean and light in leads with notes of white peach and peach pit, yel- flowers and orange blossom are coupled with apple feel, with some solid apple and lemon cream fla- low melon and grilled apple. Supporting tones of flesh, crumbled chalk and a touch of sweet herbs. vors coupled with ample acidity to keep it all fresh ginger root, fresh hay and savory fresh herbs add The medium-weight palate is round and satisfying, and lifted. Direct and clean, a touch of baking spice depth from the background. Ripe yet pithy melon a little soft on the midpalate, but then the acid- unfolds on the finish. Cape Classics. —L.B. and orange flavors carry through to the close and ity pops up and the texture builds to reveal a nice abv: 12.5% Price: $33 lend a lasting textural impression to the palate. balance and overall bright mouthfeel. Soft tannins Ample acidity supports the package, just picking

WINEMAG.COM | 69

BUYINGGUIDE up the density of the flavors and textural weight. ant right off the bat. Soft melon and pithy citrus lot to take in, with nuances of orange oil and sweet A lightly toasty, nutty almond and melon flavor tones are coupled with herbal hints of mâche and cured meat in the background. The medium-weight resides on the close. Meridian Prime Inc. —L.B. watercress, as well as a hint of feline essence. Green palate boasts a brightness and lightness to the mid- abv: 13.5% Price: $60 grass, lime leaf and plum abound on the fresh and palate, with fine yet structuring tannins and linger- zippy palate, with solid acidity and a brisk, mouth- ing notes of red cherry and plum skin. It’s well bal- Graham Beck 2015 The Game Reserve watering finish. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. anced, earthy and lovely to drink now, though it will 90 Chenin Blanc (Coastal Region). Lightly abv: 13% Price: $15 mature well through 2028. Red Wolf Imports. —L.B. baked apple, spiced pear, yellow melon and fig all abv: 13% Price: $48 dance on the nose of this lovely bottling, presided Noble Hill 2016 Viognier (Simonsberg-Paarl). over by a lovely fresh honeycomb aroma and subtle 87 There’s a floral, spicy lift to the nose of this Storm 2015 Ignis Pinot Noir (Upper Hemel- ginger and yellow flower accents. It’s a harmoni- wine, with aromas of ginger-peach tea, honeysuckle, 93 en-Aarde Valley). This is quite pretty and ous and tasty pour, medium in weight and with a spiced pear and nectarine that fill the bouquet. The complex smelling, with a lot to take in. The bou- mouth­watering citrus-driven finish that then veers medium-weight palate shows a bit of heft on the quet offers a range of medium-intense aromas, with into spicy accents. Maritime Wine Trading Collec- midpalate, with waves of peach, nectarine, rose and scents of frankincense, whole baking spice, rose-hip tive. —L.B. honeysuckle flavors. There’s just enough acidity to tea and a sweet cured-meat accent that harmonizes abv: 13.5% Price: $16 lift the sweet-flavor impressions, while the finish is seamlessly with the fresh, snappy red-fruit core. all floral. Invoer. —L.B. The medium-weight palate is smooth and silky in Lievland 2017 Old Vines Chenin Blanc abv: 13.5% Price: $18 feel, with fine yet structuring tannins and medium- 89 (Paarl). Scents of honeycomb, beeswax plus acidity. Bright cherry, raspberry, red plum and and yellow melon abound on the nose of this wine, Babylonstoren 2016 Viognier (Western wild strawberry flavors dance on the palate, with with some light sweet spice, baked apple and yellow 86 Cape). This is slightly warm on the nose, final flourishes of forest floor and sweet cedar. flower accents. It’s medium in weight, with ample with spiced melon and citrus peel aromas that Broadbent Selections, Inc. —L.B. acidity to lift the ripe orange, apple and pineapple are coupled with grapefruit pith and green apple abv: 13.5% Price: $50 core flavors and a slight prickle to the palate. Vine- accents. The medium-weight palate offers just yard Brands. —L.B. enough acidity to lift the ripe fruit flavors and sweet Storm 2014 Moya’s Pinot Noir (Upper Hemel- abv: 13.5% Price: $19 orange impression. Catamarca Imports LLC. —L.B. 93 en-Aarde Valley). Subtle Thin Mint and abv: 14% Price: $25 mentholated herb notes mingle with earthy spiced tea and rooibos against the clean, focused red-berry SAUVIGNON BLANC and -cherry fruit tones on the nose of this attrac- PINOT NOIR tive wine. There are hints of dried orange peel, red Paul Cluver 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Elgin). currant and just a kiss of fresh lavender. Medium- 90 Green plum, gooseberry, lime pith and Storm 2015 Vrede Pinot Noir (Hemel-en- minus in weight, it’s silky and ethereal in feel, with fresh sweet grass all unfold on the nose of this vari- 95 Aarde Valley). There’s an herbal edge right a lightness of being yet such sincere and serious etally correct wine. Lightweight, fresh and vibrant, upfront on the nose of this wine, with some earthy intent and focus. It delivers bright flavors of snappy it boasts lime-like acidity and pleasantly tart, not foliage, raw cocoa nib and fresh-tilled dirt aromas red cherry and currant, with oodles of sweet spice mouthpuckering, green melon and plum flavors. that are amply supported by a fruity core of red and lifted herbal tones that carry long into the fin- Superfresh and vibrant, this is well balanced and cherry flesh, plum, wild strawberry and raspberry. ish. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —L.B. easy to like. Pascal/Schildt Selections. Editors’ The bright palate offers beautiful minerality, as abv: 13.5% Price: $55 Choice. —L.B. pristine, pure red-fruit flavors are coupled with a abv: 13.5% Price: $17 saline burst on the midpalate and through the close. B Vintners 2016 Black Bream Pinot Noir Fine tannins lend a subtle structure. It’s well bal- 92 (Walker Bay). Earthy aromas of forest floor Downes Family 2016 Sanctuary Peak Sau- anced, focused and precise, a gorgeous wine that is and rooibos tea are front and center on the nose of 88 vignon Blanc (Elgin). There’s not a ton of hard to resist now and should evolve well through this pretty Pinot. Notes of crunchy red berry, pome- aromatic intensity here, with some delicate hints of 2028. Broadbent Selections, Inc. Editors’ Choice. granate and red cherry pit are hit with a dusting white melon rind, fresh thyme, mint and lemon pith —L.B. of cocoa. Silky in feel and texture, it’s medium in in the bouquet. It’s lightweight and easy to enjoy, abv: 13.5% Price: $50 weight and well balanced, with lively acidity and with good acidity and touches of sweet orange and just-ripe red fruits that flood the palate and finish pineapple flavors on the back of the palate. Drink Storm 2014 Vrede Pinot Noir (Hemel-en- with a mouthwatering zest. Cape Classics. Editors’ now. Southern Starz, Inc. —L.B. 94 Aarde Valley). Soft earthy spice and sweet Choice. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $20 cured-bacon aromas are at the front of the bouquet abv: 12.5% Price: $33 here, with supporting fruit tones of brambly ber- Thelema 2017 Sutherland Sauvignon Blanc ries, wild strawberry, peach pit, fruit cake, sweet Hamilton Russell 2017 Pinot Noir (Hemel- 88 (Elgin). Aromas of fresh sweet grass, green smoke and rooibos. There’s a real mélange of aromas 92 en-Aarde Valley). Pronounced aromas of melon rind, lime peel, underripe mango and fig form and flavors here, just stunning, with more nuance mentholated herbs and fynbos dance on the nose of the nose of this fresh and tart wine. It’s lightweight and complexity discovered with each sniff and sip. this excellent wine, with supporting tones of forest and easy to drink, with subtle fruit flavors and Bright, snappy red berry fruits abound on the pal- floor, tilled soil, red currant and cherry. Medium in medium acidity. It’s not an overly complex pour, but ate, while hints of sous bois, tree bark and cocoa nib weight and plush in feel, it offers framing tannins it’s tasty enough, with a touch of earthy, herbal bit- unfold on the close. It’s medium in weight, well- that lend a solid grip to the palate and finish, while terness on the end. Invoer. —L.B. composed and balanced, with a smooth, suave and a kiss of warming spice graces the close. Well bal- abv: 13.5% Price: $18 silky texture. Broadbent Selections, Inc. Editors’ anced and structured, it’s attractive now, but will Choice. —L.B. mature well through 2029. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $55 abv: 13.5% Price: $50 OTHER WHITE WINES Ataraxia 2015 Pinot Noir (Hemel-en-Aarde Elgin Vintners 2015 Pinot Noir (Elgin). This is Ashbourne 2016 Sauvignon Blanc-Chardon- 93 Ridge). Lovely top notes of carnation, tilled 91 just what many expect from a Pinot. Upfront 88 nay (Walker Bay). A blend of 80% Sauvi- earth, mentholated herbs, sweet oak and forest floor aromas of ripe plum, chocolate-covered cherry and gnon and 20% Chardonnay, this is clean and pleas- grace the brambly berry core of this wine. There’s a baking spice like whole clove and cinnamon stick

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 lead the nose and carry through to the plush, velvety Boschendal 2016 Appellation Series Pinot Natte Valleij 2016 Cinsault (Coastal Region). palate. Medium tannins support the fruity core, 89 Noir (Elgin). There’s a nice brightness to the 90 Pleasant earthy hints of fresh-tilled soil lending structure to the palate and a textural length nose of this wine. It leads with enticing scents of and spice bark ride atop the core of ripe red plum, to the close, alongside a decadent lingering flavor of snappy red currant, cherry and rhubarb, with lovely cherry and currant on the nose of this wine. Flo- cocoa-dusted cherry. Z Wines USA. —L.B. orange-oil and herbal tea overlays. The palate is ral hints of violets, carnation and rooibos add an abv: 14% Price: $NA light and cheery in feel, with medium acidity and interesting depth and complexity to the direct fruit fine tannins that offer a subtle structure while the core. The medium-weight palate boasts soft, fine Tesselaarsdal 2017 Pinot Noir (Hemel-en- finish is fresh and clean. Pacific Highway Wines & tannins and bright acidity, resulting in a texture 91 Aarde Ridge). A new brand to watch, this Spirits. —L.B. like crushed satin. Well balanced and defined, and stunning Pinot opens with initial scents of for- abv: 13% Price: $35 supremely easy to like and drink. Invoer. —L.B. est floor and orange-spiked cranberry, red currant abv: 13% Price: $19 and rhubarb. The palate is smooth and satiny, with Chamonix 2016 Feldspar Pinot Noir (Fran- fine tannins, bright acidity and ripe, fresh red-fruit 85 schhoek). This is warm and lush upfront, Alheit 2017 Flotsam and Jetsam Stalwart characters that all meld together masterfully. Sub- with notes of chocolate-covered cherry and sweet 89 Dry Farmed Old Bushvines Cinsault (West- tle accents of cocoa, cedar and baking spice linger spice that are surprisingly coupled with an assertive ern Cape). This is such a bright and fun wine, with on the close atop a note of cherry hard candy. Vine- stemmy characteristic. The palate has a slightly vic- vibrant red-fruit aromas of strawberry, raspberry yard Brands. —L.B. sous feel, with astringent tannins and a sharp bit- and spiced plum. There’s a pleasantly noticeable yet abv: 13.5% Price: $53 terness that dominates the finish. Vineyard Brands. well-integrated spicy seam throughout, expressed —L.B. in waves of cola spice, white pepper and fresh- Thelema 2014 Sutherland Pinot Noir (Elgin). abv: 13.5% Price: $31 tilled soil. There’s a slight prickle to the palate, 91 This inviting Pinot leads with crisp aromas of with a supreme juiciness that carries through to the fresh strawberry, raspberry and red currant that are mouthwatering finish. Medium-light in weight, well hit by accents of foliage and cola spice. It’s silky and PINOTAGE balanced and oh-so-easy to enjoy, drink this now– smooth in feel, with fine tannins and medium acid- 2020. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —L.B. ity that frame the just-ripe cherry and berry flavors. Ashbourne 2015 Pinotage (Hemel-en-Aarde abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Final impressions of rooibos tea and light mocha 91 Valley). For full review see page 10. unfold on the long, evolving finish. Invoer. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $58 abv: 13.5% Price: $21 MOURVÈDRE Beaumont 2014 Pinotage (Bot River). There’s Chamonix 2014 Reserve Pinot Noir (Fran- 91 a gamy, animal edge to this wine, with aromas Beaumont 2014 Mourvèdre (Bot River). This 90 schhoek). This is a concentrated and lush of barnyard and cured meat that sit atop the dark 89 smells warm, ripe and rich right off the bat, wine, with medium-intense notes of black cherry, core of blackberry, black cherry and plum notes. with tight black cherry and plum tones as well as an blueberry and plum that are spiced by prominent It’s bold and gripping on the palate, with firm, dry- herbal overlay of fennel, licorice, pepper and turned tones of mentholated herbs and whole baking spice. ing tannins and a tight structure that suggests this soil. Well-integrated tannins and ample acidity The medium-weight palate offers a smooth, velvety needs a bit more time to mellow and harmonize. form a smooth, satiny texture, with ripe black-fruit impression, with fine-grained tannins that lend The palate is all dark fruit and spicy oak tones, flavors that ride through to the juicy close. Broad- a subtle yet supporting structure and ample acid- which carry through to the enduring and drying bent Selections, Inc. —L.B. ity that lifts the spicy ripe fruit. The finish boasts finish, with notes of bittersweet chocolate, toasted abv: 13.5% Price: $53 lasting strawberry and raspberry flavors. Vineyard oak, vanilla bean and black fruit skin. Broadbent Brands. —L.B. Selections, Inc. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $61 abv: 14% Price: $33 SHIRAZ/SYRAH

Kershaw 2015 Clonal Selection Pinot Noir Lievland 2017 Bushvine Pinotage (Paarl). For Boekenhoutskloof 2015 Syrah (Swartland). 90 (Elgin). This is the first Pinot release from 91 full review see page 12. Editors’ Choice. 93 For full review see page 7. Master of Wine and winemaker Richard Kershaw. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: 14% Price: $69 It leads with an initial spicy, meaty impression in the bouquet, expressed in scents of curing spice Robertson Winery 2017 Pinotage (Robert- Luddite 2011 Shiraz (Walker Bay). Spicy and sweet bacon that are coupled with more famil- 89 son). For full review see page 103. Best Buy. 92 aromas dominate the bouquet here, with iar notes of mulled berries, cherry pits and forest abv: 14% Price: $10 abundant licorice, fruit-cake spice and pressed floor. The smooth, suave palate offers a broad, fruit-­ African violet atop the blackberry, boysenberry and forward impression, with waves of lush red-fruit wild raspberry fruit. The palate is medium-plus in flesh and sweet oak spice that ride long into the CINSAULT weight, with bold tannins and a texture like crushed close. Meridian Prime Inc. —L.B. velvet. The black fruit is ripe and dark in nature, abv: 13.5% Price: $80 The Blacksmith 2017 Barebones Cinsault with juicy plum, black cherry and boysenberry 91 (Paarl). This wine is red sunshine in a glass. tones all hit by sweet spice, steeped black tea and Blackwater 2015 MMXV Cuvee Terra Lux So bright and lively, it boasts enticing scents of cocoa nib on the close. Southern Starz, Inc. —L.B. 89 Pinot Noir (Elgin). Medium-intense scents fresh red plum, cherry and strawberry that are abv: 15% Price: $60 of black tea, dark plum, tilled earth, mocha and coupled with glimmers of baking spice and rooi- sweet oak unfold on the nose of this wine. The bos tea which add pleasant depth and interest in Babylonstoren 2016 Shiraz (Simonsberg- palate is plush and rich in feel, with a texture like the background. There’s a slight lift to the palate, 90 Paarl). This smells big and bold right off crushed velvet and ripe flavors of dark cherry and which is light and juicy. Well made, direct, unfussy the bat, as resiny, concentrated aromas of black- plum that carry through to the close. Medium tan- in approach and high in pure, unadulterated drink- berry, boysenberry and blueberry all come off as nins and a spicy impression support the fruit core. ing pleasure. Pascal/Schildt Selections. Editors’ slightly warm and spicy, with an aggressive top Vine Street Imports. —L.B. Choice. —L.B. note of cinnamon stick. The palate is smooth and abv: 14% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $28 plush, with velvety tannins that unfold on the mid­ palate and hang around through the lingering finish. Final notes of cocoa nib, cherry pit and sweet pipe

WINEMAG.COM | 71

BUYINGGUIDE tobacco grace the close. Catamarca Imports LLC. nious and balanced, with all the components strong tobacco, leather and sweet spice, while and hints —L.B. and upfront. A complete and delicious wine now, of cigar box and fudgy chocolate brownie grace the abv: 14.5% Price: $30 enjoy through 2026. Terlato Wines International. close. Invoer. —L.B. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $26 Luddite 2013 Shiraz (Walker Bay). This abv: 14.5% Price: $80 90 boasts a lovely interplay between ripe berry Noble Hill 2013 Estate Blend (Simonsberg- fruits and oaky spice on the nose, with forward Boekenhoutskloof 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon 90 Paarl). Dried black raspberry, cherry and scents of cinnamon- and clove-dusted red cherry 92 (Stellenbosch). This wine is currently quite fig aromas abound in the bouquet of this Bordeaux- and mulberry. There’s a faint touch of roasted cof- big and bold. The bouquet opens with robust, abun- style blend, with lots of tobacco and cigar box spice fee in the background. It’s medium weight, with a dant dark plum, cherry, boysenberry and black- overlay. Medium in weight and velvety in texture, structure that shows good balance between the berry fruit scents that are hit by notes of fresh soil, it boasts fine yet structuring tannins and a plush, ripe fruit flavors, firm yet integrated tannins and roasted cocoa nib and cigar box spice. It opens up to suave mouthfeel. Pleasant oak and leathery spice medium acidity. The finish is long and clean, danc- reveal more nuance—graphite, sweet tobacco—with tones grace the close, with more dark cherry and ing back and forth between those fruity tones and time. The dark fruits and medium-plus tannins cre- blackberry fruit flavors. Invoer. —L.B. spicy, structured tannins. Southern Starz, Inc. ate a bold, gripping structure that fills the mouth abv: 14% Price: $25 —L.B. and finishes long. It has the stuffing to age well, so abv: 15% Price: $60 drink 2022–2026. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. Chamonix 2015 Rouge (Franschhoek). A abv: 14.5% Price: $69 89 blend of 40% Malbec, 25% Merlot, 24% Thelema 2013 Sutherland Syrah (Elgin). Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Petit Verdot, this 89 There’s a touch of stemminess to the nose Robertson Winery 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon opens with an earthy, animal edge, shown in scents of this wine, though the fruit is ripe and black in 91 (Robertson). For full review see page 16. Best of peppery cured meat, cigar ash and spiced black- nature, with bold black plum and blackberry tones. Buy. berry, boysenberry and black plum. The medium- Tones of licorice root, baking spice, coffee and warm abv: 13.5% Price: $10 weight palate boasts moderate tannins that lend a cedar add depth. The palate is medium-plus in solid frame to the bold mouthfeel full of blackberry weight, with a firm tannic structure and ample acid- Excelsior 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Robert- paste and cassis flavors. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. ity to complement the dark fruit flavors. It’s grip- 90 son). For full review see page 103. Best Buy. abv: 14% Price: $18 ping and structured, with good length to the finish. abv: 14% Price: $10 Invoer. —L.B. Unorthodox 2014 Kosher Merlot-Cabernet abv: 14.5% Price: $22 87 Sauvignon (Paarl). Loads of sweet spice, RED BLENDS oak, vanilla and mocha sit atop a core of rich red- Excelsior 2016 Syrah (Robertson). This is cherry and -plum flesh. The medium-weight palate 88 juicy and fruity upfront, with pronounced Babylonstoren 2015 Nebukadnesar (Simons- offers soft tannins and ample acidity to lift the rich notes of ripe red plum and cherry that are hit by 93 berg-Paarl). Dark and brooding, this Cab- fruit flavors. The finish is solid and clean, though it notes of church incense and sweet spice. Touches of ernet Sauvignon-led blend, with Merlot, Cabernet dissipates rather quickly. Kosher. Zandwijk. —L.B. vanilla bean and pressed purple violets add interest. Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec, currently smells abv: 14% Price: $14 It’s medium in weight, but quite juicy, with good somewhat reserved, with shy notes of black plum, acidity and a vibrance to the fresh red-fruit flavors cassis, Baker’s chocolate, boysenberry and cigar-box that carries through to the finish. Medium tannins spice. It’s medium-plus in weight, with opulence NEW ZEALAND lend some structure, but it’s not overbearing, mak- and a rich body that’s framed by bold, supporting ing this an accessible and easy to like wine. Cape tannins and medium acidity. It’s well balanced, with SAUVIGNON BLANC Classics. Best Buy. —L.B. a long, spicy finish that ends with a kiss of dark abv: 14% Price: $10 chocolate. Catamarca Imports LLC. —L.B. Glover Family 2017 Zephyr Sauvignon Blanc abv: 14% Price: $45 90 (Marlborough). This small, family-run pro- Noble Hill 2015 Syrah (Simonsberg-Paarl). ducer makes a solid, salt-tinged Sauvignon Blanc 87 There’s a shy, tight character to the nose Leeu Passant 2016 Dry Red (Western Cape). from the estate vineyards close to the sea in the of this wine. It opens with a reserved bouquet of 92 A tribute to South Africa’s Cape red blends cooler Awatere Valley subregion of Marlborough. closed black plum, blackberry and cassis, which of yesteryear, this wine is a blend of 38% Cabernet This wine is a relatively quiet mix of lemon zest, also has a slight warming lift. The palate offers fla- Sauvignon, 37% Cabernet Franc and 25% Cinsault. apple peel, sea spray and jalapeño, accompanied by vors of dried cherry and strawberry preserves that Medium-intense notes of chocolate-covered cherry, prickly, mouthwatering acidity, a chalky texture and fill out the broad mouthfeel. Those rich fruit tones red plum and mulberry are married to some earthy a citrusy finish. Massanois Imports. —C.P. carry through to the finish alongside a good dose of cedar, herbal root and tea notes atop, like earl grey. abv: 12.5% Price: $17 sweet oak flavor. Invoer. —L.B. The medium-weight palate is firm and austere, with abv: 14% Price: $20 a pronounced tannic structure that remains quite Yealands 2018 Estate Single Vineyard Sauvi- gripping through the close. Tight flavors of plum 90 gnon Blanc (Awatere Valley). For full review skin, cassis and cherry pit are young and reserved. see page 16. CABERNET SAUVIGNON This wine is just waiting to shine and show its full abv: 13% Price: $25 potential. Drink 2022–2032. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Anthonij Rupert 2012 Vinified and Bottled Cellar Selection. —L.B. Greyrock 2017 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 94 on Lormarins Cabernet Sauvignon (Fran- abv: 14% Price: $120 88 (Marlborough). On the riper end of the schhoek). This suave, seductive wine opens with spectrum, heady aromas of peach, pineapple, ripe forward aromas of black currant, blackberry and Natte Valleij 2014 P.O.W. (Paarl). Concen- grapefruit and a touch of honey and herb are at the mentholated plum that are hit by green, earthy 90 trated aromas of black plum, currant and fore. Light bodied with a slightly chalky texture and tones of tobacco leaf, licorice root and flower stem. blackberry lead the nose of this Bordeaux-style crisp—but not searing—acidity. There’s a touch The palate is full and lush, with rich and opulent blend of 50% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, of fruit sweetness here, but overall it’s a dry and dark-fruit flavors that are framed by bold, structur- 21% Petit Verdot and 8% Cabernet Franc. It’s refreshing drop. Prestige Beverage Group. —C.P. ing tannins and lifted by ample acidity, as well as medium-plus in weight, with a soft structure and abv: 12% Price: $17 pronounced oak and licorice spice tones. It’s harmo- rich body. Bold black-fruit flavors are coupled with

72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 Hay Maker 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- wine takes its time to open, eventually revealing texture, with biting acidity that gives a sharp edge 88 ough). An appealing nose bursting with ripe notes of dried herbs, nettles and green beans, with to this wine. USA Wine West. —C.P. lemon, pineapple, peach and florals leads to a palate grapefruit and pineapple tones in the background. abv: 13% Price: $13 that veers close to the medium-bodied neighbor- There’s more fruit on the palate, which wraps hood. There’s bright, tingly, mouthwatering acidity around enamel-stripping acidity that’s resolved by a Locations NV NZ7 Sauvignon Blanc (New and a long, citrus finish. Accolade Wines NA.Best soft texture on the finish. Foley Family Wines. —C.P. 84 Zealand). This shows confected peach, Buy. —C.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $17 pineapple and banana on the nose, with a hint of abv: 12.5% Price: $12 bell pepper. On the palate, the acid feels sharp and Yealands 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- it isn’t backed by a whole lot of fruit or texture. E. Taonga 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- 87 ough). This wine starts off with aromas of & J. Gallo. —C.P. 88 ough). This wine starts a touch reductive bell pepper and nettle that are followed closely by abv: 13.5% Price: $20 but quickly blows off in the glass, revealing subtle lemon, grapefruit and flowers. The palate is a little notes of grapefruit, peach, pineapple, snow pea and mean and green, with enamel-stripping acidity and Cook Strait 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- bell peppers. Crisp acidity and an almost chalky tex- heaps of crisp vegetal and citrus flavors. But there’s 82 ough). So pale in color it could be mistaken ture add lift and character beside the fruit weight. also a mouthwatering lemony finish, which hints at for water, this perfumed wine smells like bananas, The citrus and veg notes continue to work together wet stone minerality. Palm Bay International. —C.P. ripe peaches and flowers. The palate is clunky and to create a balanced, zippy drop. Vino Del Sol. —C.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 disjointed, with sweet-and-sour flavors that linger abv: 12.5% Price: $14 on the finish. American Estates Wines, Inc. —C.P. Baron Edmond de Rothschild 2017 Rima- abv: 12% Price: $15 Toi Toi 2018 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- 86 pere Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). This 88 borough). In a difficult and complicated charges out of the gate with heady aromas of lychee, vintage, this succeeds in showcasing Marlborough pineapple and mango. There are hints of nettle and PINOT GRIS Sauvignon in the light so many have come to rec- tomato leaf, but this is a fruit-led, crisp and chalky- ognize and enjoy. Heady, exotic aromas like passion textured wine. Europvin USA. —C.P. Monowai 2016 Pinot Gris (Hawke’s Bay). Pale fruit, grapefruit rind, guava and tomato leaf lead abv: 13% Price: $25 87 gold in color, this wine starts with notes of into a palate that is light but with some texture to Band-Aid and menthol. Most of it blows off rela- balance zingy acidity. Finishes on an herbal, leafy Fault Line 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- tively quickly, however, and to the fore come notes note. USA Wine West. —C.P. 86 ough). This is a highly aromatic wine. Con- of honeyed apple and pear. The palate is medium to abv: 13% Price: $23 centrated pineapple and guava aromas rush out of full bodied and creamy, thanks to partial lees stir- the glass, followed by some snow pea and green bell ring. It does border on flabby and weighty, but it’s Waxing Moon 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- pepper characters. The palate is equally fruity, and just barely redeemed by a line of acidity. The finish 88 borough). For full review see page 103. Best a little residual sugar and fruit weight balance the is short and fruity. World Traveler Imports, LLC. Buy. racy acidity. Winesellers, Ltd. —C.P. —C.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 abv: 13% Price: $13 abv: 13% Price: $15

Giesen 2017 The Brothers Sauvignon Blanc Sea Pearl 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- Oyster Bay 2018 Pinot Gris (Hawke’s Bay). 87 (Marlborough). A closed nose opens up to 86 ough). This is an easy-going, lightweight 87 A simple, straightforward sipper showing reveal aromas of citrus, tropical fruit, snow pea and sipper with pineapple rind, stone fruit and snow bright lemon, peach, ginger and floral notes. The tomato leaf, and, because it’s seen some time in bar- pea aromas. On the palate, mouthwatering, prickly palate is light bodied and fruity, seemingly with rel, a touch of toasty oak. The medium-bodied pal- acidity balances tropical fruit, making it easy to take a touch of residual sugar to balance the acidity. A ate is all at once grainy and creamy in feel, yet with another sip. Winesellers, Ltd. —C.P. refreshing, uncomplicated porch pounder. Delegat searing acidity coming in on the midpalate. There’s abv: 13% Price: $12 USA, Inc. —C.P. nice fruit weight and a long lemony finish. Pacific abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Highway Wines & Spirits. —C.P. Toi Toi 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- abv: 13% Price: $20 86 ough). This ticks all the Kiwi Sauvignon Fern Ridge 2017 Pinot Gris (Hawke’s Bay). Blanc boxes, with upfront aromas of passion fruit, 85 There are ripe apple, pear and honey aro- Misty Cove 2017 Reef Ridge Sauvignon Blanc guava, bell pepper and tomato leaf. The palate is mas here, but they’re somewhat masked, seemingly 87 (Marlborough). This is a bright, aromatic lightweight, with crispy, crunchy acidity and a by sulfur. The palate feels equally trodden upon and wine, with generous amounts of tropical fruit, ripe slightly slippery texture. It finishes on an herbal watery in texture, with some decent acidity, but lemon, nettle, honey and a little oyster shell. The note. Drink now. USA Wine West. —C.P. fruit weight and residual sugar make the wine feel palate is light, crisp and slippery textured with a abv: 13% Price: $15 flat and rather two-dimensional. Saranty Imports. lemony finish. Saranty Imports.Best Buy. —C.P. —C.P. abv: 13% Price: $10 Fire Road 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- abv: 12% Price: $19 85 borough). This wine starts off somewhat The Crossings 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Awa- reductively and with the variety’s typical honeyed Oyster Bay 2017 Pinot Gris (Hawke’s Bay). 87 tere Valley). Starting on the quiet, muted tropical and passion fruit aromas. The palate feels 85 This wine offers slightly honeyed tropical side, this eventually opens after some swirling a touch disjointed, with searing acidity cutting and citrus fruits on the nose. The palate adds in in glass, revealing notes of snow pea, tomato leaf, through a touch of residual sugar and fruit weight. biting acidity, a light texture and some heavy fruit. jalapeño and tropical fruit. The acidity is tingly but Winesellers, Ltd. —C.P. Delegat USA, Inc. —C.P. feels a touch underripe, and there’s some residual abv: 13% Price: $14 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 sugar seemingly to try to counteract this, which it achieves to some degree, closing on a ripe fruity Te Pa 2018 Koha Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- tone. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —C.P. 85 ough). This wine starts out with aromas of CHARDONNAY abv: 13% Price: $15 onions and cabbage. This blows off a bit with time in the glass, revealing notes of guava, grapefruit, Greywacke 2015 Chardonnay (Marlbor- Vavasour 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Awatere grass and bell pepper. The palate offers a slippery 90 ough). Like the previous vintage, this is 87 Valley). Starting reductive and oniony, this a full-bodied Chard charging out of the gate with

WINEMAG.COM | 73

BUYINGGUIDE toasted nut and smoke aromas, threaded through Te Pa 2018 Pa Road Rosé (Marlborough). Jules Taylor 2017 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). with soft pineapple and stone fruit and vanillin 85 Beneath aromas of onion and menthol lurk 90 This vintage shows plump plum and cherry oak. The palate is more restrained while still being faint tones strawberry, red cherry and herb. The aromas, laced with licorice, damp earth, dried herb, rich. It’s creamy in texture, with yet more nutty, palate is slippery and fruity, with a decent lick of flower and cola. The textured palate sees supple smoky, ripe fruit and wood spice flavors balanced acidity. It closes on a juicy red-cherry finish. USA fruit running along an earthy, herbal spine, held by crunchy acidity. Drink now–2027. Old Bridge Wine West. —C.P. together by fine-grained, savory tannins. The oak Cellars. —C.P. abv: 13% Price: $13 rears its head particularly on the finish, but over- abv: 14% Price: $39 all this is a balanced and finessed wine. Drink now Matua 2017 Elegant & Dry Pinot Noir Rosé after a short time in a or through 2024. Villa Maria 2015 Single Vineyard Taylors 84 (Marlborough). Confected strawberry and Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —C.P. 89 Pass Chardonnay (Marlborough). Reduc- watermelon aromas combine with green veg and abv: 13.5% Price: $24 tive at first, with notes of onion and menthol at yeasty notes that are an odd combo. On the pal- the fore, this blows off with time in the glass. In its ate, the fruit goes the other way, feeling underripe Catalina Sounds 2016 Pinot Noir (Marlbor- place are tones of yeasty apple, oat, ginger and but- rather than candied and falling a little flat. Overall, 89 ough). This is a likable, easygoing Pinot tery brioche. The palate is medium bodied but has this wine seems a bit overworked and unbalanced. that’s fruity but not syrupy. It leads with a bowl an unexpected lightness and delicacy to it. It’s slip- Treasury Wine Estates. —C.P. of berries—strawberries, raspberries and cranber- pery textured but with a long line of focused acidity. abv: 13% Price: $13 ries—and is quickly followed by notes of baking The toasty oak creeps in on the finish. Ste. Michelle spice, cracked pepper and violet. It’s medium bod- Wine Estates. —C.P. ied but on the lighter end, with lifted acidity and abv: 13.5% Price: $42 PINOT NOIR smooth, stalky tannins. Drink now. Jackson Family Wines. —C.P. Cloudy Bay 2015 Chardonnay (Marlbor- Clos Henri 2017 Petit Clos Pinot Noir (Marl- abv: 13% Price: $19 88 ough). This shows a ripe, fairly heavy nose 92 borough). Made from biodynamically grown of melon, butterscotch and honey, with a touch of fruit, this cranberry-hued wine is light and silky Matua 2016 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). This toasty oak and a smoky, mineral streak. The oak textured, weaving savory, fine-grained tannins and 89 wine starts pretty and lifted, full of bright becomes more apparent on the palate, particularly focused acidity with stony minerality, juicy cran- fruits, florals and holiday spices—think blueberry, on the finish, which is a little short and bitter. But raspberry fruit, cinnamon and stalks. Between the strawberry, rose, clove and cracked pepper. The this medium-bodied Chard also tastes of bright cracks lie violet, pepper and warm earth. Monsieur palate gets a little more serious, thanks to a tight lemony fruit and honey, and has enough acidity and Touton Selection Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. grip of leathery tannins and lifted acidity that hold structure to age well through 2025. Moët Hennessy abv: 13.5% Price: $20 together bundles of juicy fruit. Treasury Wine USA. —C.P. Estates. Best Buy. —C.P. abv: 13% Price: $30 Glover Family 2016 Zephyr Pinot Noir (Marl- abv: 12.5% Price: $13 91 borough). This is a light, pretty and enjoy- Spy Valley 2015 Chardonnay (Marlborough). able wine that exemplifies the changing tide toward Villa Maria 2017 Private Bin Pinot Noir (Marl- 86 This starts quite reductive, with notes of more delicate Marlborough Pinot styles. It combines 89 borough). This strawberry-hued Pinot is onions and old flower stalks. After quite a bit of fresh cran-raspberry fruit notes with floral tones, light on its feet, showing subtle notes of ripe red time in the glass, this blows off, transforming into cracked pepper, tar, and an earthy, stalky core. Light cherry, strawberry, red currant, florals and touches more appealing honeyed nut and yeasty apple aro- bodied, with crunchy, tangy fruit and a soft, satiny of vanilla and dried herb. It’s light bodied with mas. The medium-bodied palate is on the watery line of savory tannins, this would be great slightly mouthwatering acidity, clean, bright fruit and a and sour side. But there are crisp apple flavors, too, chilled on an early spring day. Massanois Imports. savory, leafy spine. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —C.P. a nice line of acidity amid a grainy texture and a Editors’ Choice. —C.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 slightly salty, seashell finish. Broadbent Selections, abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Inc. —C.P. Allan Scott 2016 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). abv: 13% Price: $20 Baron Edmond de Rothschild 2016 Rima- 88 This is a light, wispy wine that is, for the 90 pere Pinot Noir (Marlborough). This is on moment, a little lost in itself. It shows a lot of prom- the lighter end of the Pinot spectrum. There’s quite ise, however. The color is of dried rose petals, and ROSÉS a bit of cinnamon and stalky characters here, but there are quiet notes of tart red berries, florals, notes of strawberry and rhubarb are bright as well. black olives and peppercorns, with a meaty under- Jules Taylor 2018 OTQ Single Vineyard Pinot Violet and white pepper notes add to the mix. The tone. The palate is delicate, but the fruit is on the 89 Noir Rosé (Marlborough). Ballerina pink in stalkiness continues on the palate, which is wispy thin, bitter side. Give this another year or two in the hue, this dry, light- to medium-bodied pink sipper and delicate, showing less in the way of oak and bottle and it might find its way again. Negociants is a tasty combo of fruit and spice: strawberries and more in the way of crisp fruit and dried leaves. USA–The Winebow Group. —C.P. cream flanked by white pepper and dried herbs. Europvin USA. —C.P. abv: 13% Price: $20 The palate is slippery textured and a little creamy. abv: 13% Price: $45 The supple fruit is lifted by crunchy acidity and an Te Pa 2017 Koha Pinot Noir (Marlborough). herbal finish. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. Black Cottage 2016 Pinot Noir (New Zea- 88 This is a medium-bodied Pinot with plenty —C.P. 90 land). There’s an autumnal feel about this of lifted raspberry and strawberry fruit, thanks to abv: 13% Price: $24 wine: wet leaves over damp earth, the smoky rem- 20% whole bunch fermentation, along with aromas nants of a campfire off in the distance. Combine that of flower, clove, herbal tonic and an oak-derived Toi Toi 2018 Sara Rosé (Marlborough). Ripe with notes of ripe cranberries, strawberries, florals spice. On the palate, tart red currant flavors and 87 red berry and slightly leafy, stalky aromas and white pepper spice, and the result is an appeal- crisp acidity are tempered by grainy, woody tan- lead to a crisp, lightweight palate that’s fruity but ing nose indeed. It’s light to medium bodied, laced nins. The oak becomes more apparent on the finish, dry, finishing on a tangy red fruit note. A simple, with savory, stalky tannins, an earthy core and a which is a little clunky. USA Wine West. —C.P. easy-drinking drop. USA Wine West. —C.P. cranberry tang right through to the end. Domaine abv: 14% Price: $16 abv: 13% Price: $15 Select Wine & Spirits. —C.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA The Crossings 2016 Pinot Noir (Awatere Val- 88 ley). Cherries and raspberries are backed

74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 by distinctive notes of meat and mushroom, dried An herbal, cranberry note marks the finish. Vinovia On the finish, licorice and burnt toast notes rise up. herb and wood spice on this medium-bodied wine. Wine Group/Marisco Vineyards USA. —C.P. Drink now through 2025. The Wine Group. Cellar The fruit is plush and weighty on the palate, and the abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Selection. —M.S. tannins are a little woody and blocky, but in general, abv: NA Price: $NA those who like a richer style of Pinot will be happy Brancott 2016 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). plonking this affordable bottle on the table. Deutsch 85 This starts out quite stinky and reductive, Chakana 2016 Inkarri Winemaker’s Reserve Family Wine and Spirits. —C.P. with associated barnyard, sweat and onion aromas 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Pure berry abv: 14% Price: $19 dominating. Underneath are ripe, dense cherry and aromas lean toward black fruits. On the palate, this strawberry aromas, sweet spices and florals. The cool-vintage Cabernet is fresh and firm, with a tight Fire Road 2016 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). palate is on the heavy, flat side, with more ripe fruit grip. Cherry and berry flavors are quick and punchy, 87 This is a solidly medium-bodied wine that and plenty of oak that seems to be aiding in weigh- with a touch of supporting oak, while a dry finish offers up plush rhubarb and strawberry aromas ing the whole thing down. Pernod Ricard. —C.P. with crisp acidity includes plum and cherry notes. with red licorice, dried herb and a touch of wood abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Natural Merchants, Inc. —M.S. spice. There’s plenty of fruit weight on the palate abv: 14% Price: $18 but also a good lick of acidity that keeps things Mud House 2016 Pinot Noir (Central Otago). lifted, accompanied by soft, dusty tannins and a 85 This is a dense, oaky wine that at first is Salentein 2013 Pr1mum Cabernet Sauvignon tangy red berry finish. Winesellers, Ltd. —C.P. pretty closed on the nose. After some vigorous 90 (Uco Valley). For full review see page 15. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 swirling it ekes out aromas of red currant, plum, tar abv: 14.5% Price: $65 and savory oak spice. It’s full bodied with slightly Innocent Bystander 2016 Pinot Noir (Central biting acidity and grippy, grainy tannins. Closes Bodega Catena Zapata 2016 High Mountain 87 Otago). A straightforward, perfumed Pinot with bitter oak and tart red fruit. Accolade Wines 89 Vines Cabernet Sauvignon (Agrelo). Berry offering up ripe, almost candied aromas of straw- NA. —C.P. aromas include a cool minty note as well as a touch berries and blueberries along with grape jelly, flo- abv: 13.5% Price: $19 of animal. Like most Mendoza and Uco Valley 2016 rals, black pepper and oak spice. The palate is on Cabernets, this is tight and snappy in feel due to a the rounder, fuller end of the spectrum, with plump Toi Toi 2016 Clutha Pinot Noir (Central cool and rainy year. Lightly herbal berry flavors are fruit and oak spice flavors and earthy tannins. Fin- 85 Otago). This is a relatively simple Pinot slightly woody, while this is clipped and dry on the ishes short and a little flat. Old Bridge Cellars. —C.P. showing cherry and other ripe red berry aromas finish. MundoVino–The Winebow Group. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 along with some soft floral and sweet spice notes. abv: 13% Price: $25 The palate is less generous, however. While ripe Invivo 2016 Pinot Noir (Central Otago). This fruit is there, it falls a bit flat and sour, not helped Bodega Catena Zapata 2015 Alta Historic 87 is a medium- to full-bodied Pinot with fairly but seemingly underripe acidity, blocky oak and 89 Rows Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). prominent oak influence. Aromas are rich and drying, grippy tannins. USA Wine West. —C.P. Stalky berry and plum aromas come with a rugged heady, wafting ripe red berries, Christmas spices, abv: 13% Price: $23 scent of burning brush prior to a palate that’s sin- vanilla and Dr. Pepper. It’s all bordering on soapy ewy and acidic more than filled out and fruity. Leafy and a touch synthetic. The palate is also rich, and Te Pa 2017 Pa Road Pinot Noir (Marlbor- herbal flavors of red plum and red currant are fresh, the spicy oak more apparent and a little bitter on 84 ough). This is an ultrareductive, thin wine racy and taut on a reserved finish. At only 13.5% the finish. The fruit, however, is juicy and plush that only partially blows off with some vigorous ABV, this is a much lighter version of Alta than in without being syrupy, and tannins are relatively soft swirling in the glass. Underneath the reductive the past. MundoVino–The Winebow Group. —M.S. and earthy. Drink now and for the next few years. notes lurk fresh red berry, floral and dried herb abv: 13.5% Price: $55 Seaview Imports. —C.P. aromas. The palate is light to medium bodied and abv: 14% Price: $24 comes with sinewy, grippy tannins. But the acidity Finca El Origen 2016 Gran Reserva Vista feels a little underripe, and the fruit a touch sour. 89 Flores Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Komaru 2016 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). This USA Wine West. —C.P. (Uco Valley). Plum and dark-berry aromas are 87 is a light-bodied, fairly oaky expression of abv: 13.5% Price: $15 slightly minty and mildly green. A dry edgy palate Pinot showing cranberry, raspberry, dried herb qualifies as fresh, while this tastes largely of fresh and flower, licorice and cola oak spice. The palate plum and black currant along with a hint of toasty is tightly wound with savory olivey, oaky tannins, ARGENTINA oak. A high-energy finish is snappy and fresh, much laser sharp acidity and tart red fruit. Drink now and like the rest of this cool-vintage Cabernet. Carolina for the next few years. Bartow Imports. —C.P. CABERNET SAUVIGNON Wine Brands USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $23 Viña Cobos 2015 Bramare Marchiori Vineyard Giesen 2016 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Perdriel). Ultraripe Lamadrid 2016 Single Vineyard Reserva 86 Right now this wine is reductive, earthy and aromas of raisin, oud wood and musky men’s cologne 89 Cabernet Sauvignon (Agrelo). Jammy berry closed in on itself. Hiding deep within are plush red are attractive and complex for a young Cabernet aromas are clean and cheerful. This cool-vintage Cab berry aromas, florals, pepper and baking spices, but, that’s putting out at max level in terms of lushness Sauvignon feels tight, fresh and bursting with energy. as wines do sometimes, it seems to be going through and extraction. Deep oaky blackberry and chocolate Black-plum, wild-berry and peppery flavors finish a shy phase. Try another year in the bottle. Drink flavors hold onto a café-mocha note on a full finish. crisp, dry and lightly toasted. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. now–2025. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. —C.P. Drink through 2024. Paul Hobbs Selections. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $100 Mascota 2017 La Mascota Cabernet Sauvi- Marisco Vineyards 2016 The Ned Pinot Noir Trapiche 2015 Terroir Series Edición Limitada 89 gnon (Mendoza). Bold berry aromas include 86 (Marlborough). This dense wine starts out 92 Finca Laborde Single Vineyard Cabernet Sau- a shot of mint. In the mouth, this is sappy and full, quite closed, with a distinctly earthy, barnyard funk. vignon (La Consulta). A mix of foresty and floral with good weight and balance. Plum, berry and cas- After time in the glass, it starts to blow off, uncover- aromas frames dusty berry notes on this attractive sis flavors are ripe but not jammy or without ten- ing red berry fruit, florals and peppery spice. Things nose. Full extraction and heavy tannins make for sion, while modest complexity is displayed on the improve on the palate, which delivers a clean line of a weighty palate that needs more time, while this finish through fresh lightly herbal notes of tomato acidity, drying, grainy tannins and a good lick of oak. Cabernet tastes like a bowl of plum and blackberry.

WINEMAG.COM | 75

BUYINGGUIDE and pepper. Drink through 2023. Deutsch Family El Esteco 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cal- Proemio 2016 Reserva Single Vineyard Cab- Wine and Spirits. —M.S. 88 chaquí Valley). Funky aromas of olive, rub- 87 ernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). A big oaky nose abv: 14% Price: $NA ber and sea shell announce a wine from Argentina’s smells of animal and Brett as well as blueberry and northlands. This Cafayate Cabernet is tight and blackberry. This Cabernet is chunky and full but not Terrazas de Los Andes 2013 Single Vineyard hard-edged, while flavors run towards blackened all that structured. Savory gamy berry flavors finish 89 Los Aromos Cabernet Sauvignon (Luján de plum, blackberry and pepper. Toasty spice and hard with touches of mint, earth and leather. —M.S. Cuyo). Cherry and blackberry aromas are intense tannins control a rugged finish. Frederick Wildman abv: 13.5% Price: $18 and chocolaty, while the palate pounds with tan- & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. nins, acidity and angular berry and plum fruit. As abv: NA Price: $25 Weinert 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (Men­ Cabernets go, this one is massive, but with a short 87 doza). A rusty color and aromas of root beer, finish where the fruit fades and is replaced by Valentín Bianchi 2016 Famiglia Bianchi maple and scented soap indicate that this mature ­maple-like oak and heat. Drink through 2024. Moët 88 ­Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Dense Cabernet is not about fruit. Fig, chocolate and over- Hennessy USA. —M.S. berry aromas come with notes of clove and nutmeg ripe base flavors end with strong suggestions of Port abv: 15% Price: $55 on a baked nose. Pulling tannins make for a rubbing and Sherry. This is interesting more than anything mouthfeel, while this Cabernet tastes largely of oak else at this point. Drink now. Broadbent Selections, Trapiche 2016 Medalla Cabernet Sauvignon and clove, with berry undertones. Spicy oak and Inc. —M.S. 89 (Mendoza). Straightforward berry aro- minty green notes are both notable on the finish. abv: 14.5% Price: $27 mas can handle a slight note of volatility. This is a Quintessential Wines. —M.S. medium-bodied Cabernet with soft tannins trans- abv: 13% Price:­ $20 Las Vertientes 2016 Reserva Cabernet Sau- lating to easy consumption. Savory spicy berry 86 vignon (Mendoza). Cassis, cherry, animal flavors come with herbal tomato notes, while this Zuccardi 2016 Q Cabernet Sauvignon (Valle fur, sugar beet and raisiny aromas are telling in that feels good and tastes saucy on the finish. The Wine 88 de Uco). Spicy black-fruit aromas are in the they struggle to come together, much like the rest Group. —M.S. lead, backed by mild notes of tomato leaf and green of this hard-pounding Cabernet from a difficult vin- abv: NA Price: $NA herbs. A tight and juicy palate features bold acidity, tage for late-harvest reds. Clipped plum and olive while flavors of blackberry, black currant and black flavors are uncomfortable on a chippy palate with Weinert 2013 Carrascal Cabernet Sauvignon pepper wrap up on a fresh finish that’s slightly raw acidity and astringency issues. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. 89 (Luján de Cuyo). Tobacco and mocha aromas and tart. Winesellers, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $35 help soften lemony high-toned notes on the nose. A abv: 14% Price: $20 grabby palate shows acidic pinch, while berry flavors Ricardo Santos 2016 Una Selección Cabernet are peppery, chocolaty and display caramel and cof- Alta Vista 2016 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 86 Sauvignon (Mendoza). Jumbled aromas of fee from oak. A drawing but tasty finish says this will 87 (Mendoza). Foxy berry and plum aromas roasted fruits and road tar come around with airing last through at least 2022. Broadbent Selections, Inc. rattle around before settling on scented hand soap. but are never fully convincing. This Cabernet feels —M.S. A tight palate owes its feel to grape skins, while sappy and mildly abrasive, while foresty berry fla- abv: 13.9% Price: $19 staunch acidity sticks out. Said acidity makes for vors are modest, as is a fleshy finish. Global Vineyard narrow plum flavors and a drawing finish with con- Importers. —M.S. Alta Vista 2017 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon trolled tartness. Kobrand. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20 88 (Mendoza). Roasted berry aromas are ini- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 tially leathery and earthy, then slightly animal Mendoza Vineyards 2016 La Vida d’Argentine influenced as this Cabernet breathes. Rubbing tan- Argento 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (­Mendoza). 84 Gran Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (­Mendoza). nins and a compact mouthfeel eschew elegance, 87 Cherry and blackberry aromas are accented A cloudy tint and gritty pulling aromas of underripe while flavors of plum and berry fruits are dry, pep- by tire rubber. A tight linear palate is a bit scratchy, berry fruits make for a challenging start. Raw and pery and slightly medicinal all the way through the while herbal plum and currant flavors fade quickly scrubbing tannins frame slightly green berry fla- finish. Kobrand. —M.S. on a finish that shows an oaky note of clove. Pacific vors, while this is dry and scratchy on the finish. abv: 14% Price: $20 Highway Wines & Spirits. Best Buy. —M.S. Mendoza Vineyards. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $19 Antis 2013 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 88 (Mendoza). Mature berry, dusty barn and Benegas 2016 Arraigo Benegas Estate Wine Peña Viva 2016 Roca Lisa Cabernet Sauvi- slight volatility tamp down the nose on this flush 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Jammy 84 gnon (Mendoza). Soapy grapey aromas fail muscular Cabernet. Spiced plum flavors are savory raisin and fig aromas are less than resolute, while to round into anything more specific or elevated. and fruity at the same time. A steady finish with a hard-driving, intense palate is less than refined. On the palate, this is clampy and rubbery, without honest but hard tannins are a plus and suggest this Forward plum and berry flavors come with toasty much give. Flavors of grapey-berry fruits and rhu- as a good dinner wine, especially for meat dishes. oak as a backup, while on the finish this darkens barb veer towards green, while rough tannins on the Harrison Imports. —M.S. up and takes on a peppery flavor profile. Saranty finish are grabby. Saranty Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15 ­Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $22 Domaine Bousquet 2017 Reserve Made with 88 Organic Grapes Cabernet Sauvignon (Tupun- Carlos Basso 2013 Viña Amalia Reserva Cab- CABERNET FRANC gato). Meaty plum and berry aromas are gamy at 87 ernet Sauvignon (Uco Valley). Leafy, earthy first, then more full and round with the benefit of red-fruit aromas show a hint of animal. Tightness El Enemigo 2015 Gran Enemigo Agrelo Single airing. A full and grabby palate displays muscle and drawn from tomatoey acidity and rubbing tannins 91 Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Mendoza). Rubbery tannins more than finesse, while savory berry and make food a requirement, while currant and berry berry aromas are gamy and suggest tar and asphalt. plum flavors finish with residual dryness. Drink flavors are tight and reedy. This is a dry red-fruit A full and saturated palate fits the Enemigo mode, this authentic Cabernet through 2022. WISD LLC. Cabernet that emphasizes freshness and tension. while pulling tannins push down the palate feel. —M.S. Elixir Wine Group. —M.S. Charred flavors of dark fruits become more pep- abv: 14% Price: $18 abv: 14% Price: $18 pery and wood spicy on the finish. MundoVino–The Winebow Group. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $120

76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 Benegas 2010 Arraigo Benegas Old Vines Luna De Esperanza 2014 Barrel Fermented of licorice, while this ends with a note of cocoa on a 90 Cabernet Franc (Mendoza). Dark aromas 83 Cabernet Franc (Uco Valley). Right away, finish with residual tangy acidity.Harrison ­ Imports. of olive, brambly spice and berry syrup lead to a this Cabernet Franc puts up a red flag in the form of —M.S. medicinal palate that’s sticky but cut by tartaric heavy raisin and burnt wood aromas. A soupy palate abv: 13.1% Price: $15 acidity. Chocolaty-berry and black-plum flavors are is thick but lacking in acidity and structure. Overripe oozing mocha and coffee from the sides. On the fin- flavors of black fruits, raisin and wood finish hot and Wapisa 2017 Pinot Noir (Río Negro Valley). ish, this still-lively Cab Franc is hard and tannic yet heavy, with residual notes of root beer, licorice and 83 Candied floral aromas are only lightly sug- thick in texture. Saranty Imports. —M.S. prune. Luna De Esperanza. —M.S. gestive of what Pinot Noir normally smells like. A abv: 14.5% Price: $30 abv: 15% Price: $90 chunky palate is aimless and obtuse, while raspberry and plum flavors are thin and taste oddly of chicken El Enemigo 2015 Gran Enemigo Chacayes fat and cherry Kool-Aid. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. 90 Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Mendoza). PETIT VERDOT abv: NA Price: $20 This is another in the Enemigo single-vineyard ­series of Cabernet Francs, and it’s big up-front, with Finca Decero 2014 Mini Ediciones Remolinos Cruz Alta 2015 Reserve Pinot Noir (Mendoza). smoky black-fruit aromas that are gamy and smell 93 Vineyard Petit Verdot (Agrelo). Earthy black- 80 A rusty tint and unconvincing aromas of like a desert fire. A wiry palate is more clampy than berry aromas are intense, deep and softened by a clove, mushroom and dried leaves lead to a thin other wines in the line, while this tastes of plum note of oak-based vanilla. On the palate, this high- palate with hardly any body or weight. Odd flavors skins and feels raw and rubbery on a drawing finish. end Petit Verdot is full bodied, with firm tannins. of sour red fruits, spice and chicken fat are vaguely MundoVino–The Winebow Group. —M.S. Creamy berry and cassis flavors are overtly but ­citrusy on the finish. Saranty Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $120 nicely oaked, while savory spice and game notes add abv: 12.5% Price: $12 complexity to a black-fruit finish. Drink this fine El Enemigo 2015 Gran Enemigo El Cepillo example of varietal PV through 2022. Vintus LLC. 90 Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Mendoza). Editors’ Choice. —M.S. Earthy roasted berry aromas are smoky and derived abv: 14.5% Price: $39 from copious oak, which also provides notes of Zuccardi 2016 Q Tempranillo (Mendoza). tobacco, cedar and vanilla. A full and layered palate Lamadrid 2013 Gran Reserva Petit Verdot 91 Spicy plum, berry and dry herb aromas are offers flavors of earthy plum along with wood-based 92 (Agrelo). Solid berry aromas come with wel- accented by cheesy oak and a hint of barnyard. On vanilla and tobacco. Pepper, marzipan and vanilla come touches of mocha, leather and minerals, mak- the palate, this worthy Tempranillo is plump, juicy flavors lead a finish with reasonable complexity. ing for an impressive nose. Juicy acidity adds punch and balanced. Lightly baked spicy plum and berry Drink through 2022. MundoVino–The Winebow to a full but balanced palate, while blackberry, plum, flavors are uncomplicated, while this tastes meaty Group. —M.S. baking-spice and chocolate flavors hold up on the and savory on a dry and focused finish. Winesellers, abv: 13.9% Price: $120 finish. Drink through 2020. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $25 abv: 14% Price: $20 Benegas 2016 Arraigo Benegas Estate Wine 88 Cabernet Franc (Mendoza). Jammy aromas Proemio 2015 Reserve Petit Verdot (Men- Bodega Calle 2015 El Olvidado Reserva Tem- of red-licorice candy and red currant get a boost in 86 doza). Mint and grass aromas blend into 89 pranillo (Mendoza). Earthy, slightly stalky complexity from brick dust and spice notes. Like blackberry scents. This feels lean, dry and grabby. berry aromas include a note of ground leaves. This most wines from this producer, this Cab Franc is big Sappy flavors of red plum and tomato are more raw Tempranillo is full and flush, with typical Mendoza and jammy on the palate, with some flatness. Ripe than full, while this is fittingly dry and short on a size. Blackberry, plum, olive and brown-sugar fla- flavors of blackberry, raisin and prune finish minty finish with woody notes. —M.S. vors finish with all the weight this tasty honest red and lightly herbal, with mild heat. Saranty Imports. abv: 13.4% Price: $20 can handle. Elixir Wine Group. —M.S. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17 abv: 14.5% Price: $22 Tomero 2015 Reserva Petit Verdot (Men­ 84 doza). Rubbery fishy aromas are low on Altocedro 2017 Año Cero Tempranillo (La Verum 2017 Reserva Cabernet Franc (Alto fruit. A choppy palate ranks as rough and grating, 82 Consulta). The award for the funkiest Tem- 85 Valle del Río Negro). Red-plum and rasp- while this tastes oddly greasy and strange. A flat pranillo this side of Spain goes to this herbaceous berry aromas are lean and come with a note of chunky rubbery finish is fitting given what comes number with the heavy pine, juniper and feline aro- cinnamon. Astringency and tartness are notable beforehand. Blends Inc. —M.S. mas. On the palate, this is heavy and soupy, while issues on a high-acid palate that’s dealing strained abv: 14.5% Price: $22 the flavor profile is green and sharp, with briny flavors of plum skins and currant. On the finish, pickled notes throughout. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. this ­Patagonian Cab Franc is sharp and even a touch abv: 14.1% Price: $17 sour, with rubbery tannins and a persistent tang. PINOT NOIR Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $29 Marcelo Mira 2016 Joven Pinot Noir (Pata- RED BLENDS 85 gonia). Leafy berry aromas include notes of Zuccardi 2017 Poligonos del Valle de Uco San iodine and dried blood. A severely dry and clamping Bodega Catena Zapata 2014 Nicolás Catena 84 Pablo Cabernet Franc (Valle de Uco). Hailing palate is light in weight but rough, while a toasty 93 Zapata (Mendoza). Smooth aromas of berry from one of the coolest highest-elevation spots in earthy flavor profile is low on fruit. A finish with fruits, fig, tobacco and chocolate signal a well-oaked all of Mendoza, this Cab Franc reflects its San Pablo rubbery tannins and leafy flavors of tomato and blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Mal- origins, take it or leave it. Green aromas, including spice is dry and scouring. Vinology USA. —M.S. bec. This signature wine for Catena is powerful and oregano, basil and tomato lead to a palate that’s abv: 13% Price: $18 lusty on the palate, with flavors of toasty oak, fig, chunky and out of focus. Much like the nose, this blackberry and spice all rolled into a fine whole. tastes of oregano and pasta sauce, while a flat finish Familia Colombi 2015 Private Selection Pinot­ Long and toasty on the finish, this should be at doesn’t do much to bring this around. Winesellers, 84 Noir (Mendoza). Light generic red-berry its peak in a couple of years. Drink through 2026. Ltd. —M.S. aromas include a hint of sandalwood. While this is MundoVino–The Winebow Group. Cellar Selection. abv: NA Price: $30 fresh and easy on the palate, it’s also thin much like —M.S. tea. Leafy plum and currant flavors include a touch abv: 13.5% Price: $125

WINEMAG.COM | 77

BUYINGGUIDE

Luigi Bosca 2015 Gala 4 Cabernet Franc-Mal- oak-based vanilla, cedar and tobacco notes. This Flechas de los Andes 2015 Punta de ­Flechas 93 bec (Mendoza). Cherry-cough-drop, cassis Malbec-led blend is full and saturated on the palate, 89 (Argentina). Earthy berry aromas are herbal and licorice aromas are bright and right, while the with measurable core acidity. A mix of oaky berry, and floral, and overall this smells, tastes and feels nose of this 90% Cab Franc (with 10% Malbec) isn’t vanilla and tobacco flavors finishes short, with more different than most Mendoza reds. The palate is over the top. A full palate, like the nose, doesn’t bull- mocha and chocolate than anything else. Vinocopia. both saturated and freshly grapey, while black- doze, while this tastes of well-oaked berry fruits and —M.S. plum, cardamom and mint flavors conclude on a chocolate. With a good piece of meat, this will do abv: 14.9% Price: $22 reedy tasting and rubbing finish with coffee notes. you right. Drink through 2026. Frederick Wildman Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S. & Sons, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. Altocedro 2017 La Consulta Select (La Con- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $38 90 sulta). A deep-purple tint sets the stage for fleshy blackberry, cassis, fig and cinnamon aromas. Nieto Senetiner 2015 Don Nicanor (Mendoza).­ Mi Terruño 2013 Icono (Mendoza). Aromas On the palate, this blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sau- 89 Aromas of lead pencil and wood shavings 93 of blackberry, mocha and oak spice ring true vignon, Tempranillo and Syrah is wide and jammy. share space on the nose with rubbery berry-fruit and are in harmony. A flush palate displays fine bal- Beefy berry, cassis and black-plum flavors land on a notes. This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec ance, while spiced berry, plum, soy sauce and savory fleshy finish with just enough tightness and focus. and Merlot is pulpy and fruit forward, with ten- tea flavors land smoothly on a finish where subtle Drink through 2022. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. sion to the palate. Spicy berry and plum flavors are spicy oak returns and holds court. Drink through abv: 14.4% Price: $23 a touch cheesy, while this tastes savory and roasted 2026. Copa Fina Imports CA. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. on a dry lean finish. Foley Family Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $60 Chakana 2015 Estate Selection Red Blend abv: 14% Price: $19 90 (Valle de Uco). Animal, dried berry and Trapiche 2013 Iscay Malbec-Cabernet Franc prune aromas lead to a reserved palate featuring François Lurton 2017 L’Esprit de Chacayes 93 (Mendoza). The black-fruit aromas on this rubbery subdued tannins. Savory dark-berry flavors 88 (Uco Valley). An opaque color announces Malbec-Cab Franc are impressive, and while the pal- are earthy and herbal, while this is short and minty this highly saturated and fully extracted wine. ate is tight, drawing and powerful, there’s a sense of on the finish. While nothing miraculous, this blend Smoky, grapey aromas are matched by a pulpy pal- correctness about its size and strength. Blackberry, of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah rises to a ate that’s thick and jammy. Up-front plum and berry cassis and plum flavors are primed by strong acidity, fairly high level. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. flavors are exuberant but lack backing on a mellow while overall this is a broad fruity Argentine red in abv: 14% Price: $27 finish. Atlas Imports. —M.S. all its glory. Enjoy with a good steak through 2028. abv: 15% Price: $50 The Wine Group. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. Domaine Bousquet 2017 Gaia Made With abv: 14.5% Price: $70 90 Organic Grapes (Tupungato). A saturated La Posta 2017 Tinto (Mendoza). Earthy purple color and dusty but concentrated blackberry 88 plum and berry aromas include a fair Cheval des Andes 2014 Red (Mendoza). and cassis aromas set up a lush palate that’s stacked amount of oak and tobacco, while this blend of Mal- 92 ­Jammy berry aromas combined with fine with fruit. Plum and berry flavors are big and fruity, bec, Bonarda and Syrah feels plump, with cutting oak result in nuances of chocolate, forest floor, while this blend of Malbec and Syrah with a touch tomato-like acidity and rubbing tannins. Wood- mushroom and cool earth. This Malbec-heavy blend of Cabernet is steady and smooth on a plump dark- spice, pepper and baked plum flavors finish with comes out screaming with tannins and tartaric bite. fruit finish. WISD LLC. —M.S. mild black-fruit notes and stronger hints of clove Big flavors of black plum, blackberry and vanilla abv: 14% Price: $20 and baking spices. Vine Connections. —M.S. spread out over a wide but youthful finish. Give abv: 13% Price: $15 this more time to integrate and settle; best from Lamadrid 2015 Begani Premium Blend ­2020–2026. Moët Hennessy USA. Cellar Selection. 90 (Agrelo). Oaky black-fruit aromas run Dralion 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah —M.S. heavy on the clove, chocolate and wild herbs. 87 (Mendoza). Slightly murky and herbal berry abv: 15% Price: $99 This Malbec blend is fleshy on the palate, with aromas are a click less than fresh. This blend of ­blackberry, leather and roasted flavors. A warm fin- 80% Cabernet and 20% Syrah feels heavy and tan- Flechas de los Andes 2012 Gran Corte (Argen­ ish shows savory notes of barbecue sauce and clove nic, with a shock of bracing acidity. Woody, slightly 91 tina). Classic Uco Valley aromas of deep to go with black-fruit flavors. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. roasted stewed berry flavors finish with a barbecued ­berry fruits are touched-up by cheesy oak that lends abv: 14.5% Price: $25 note and beefy weight. Estancia Winery. —M.S. tobacco and vanilla to the nose. On the palate, this abv: 13% Price: $17 blend of Malbec, Syrah and Cab Franc is choppy, Trapiche 2015 Iscay Syrah-Viognier (Uco acidic and still raw after years in the bottle. Cherry, 90 Valley). Jammy blackberry and cassis aro- Malacara 2016 Oak Cask (Mendoza). Jammy plum and raspberry flavors are Bordeaux-like, while mas seem reduced and reticent. While this is full 87 berry aromas are solid and settled. This staunch acidity returns on the finish. Drink through on the palate, the structure of this Syrah-heavy every­day red blend is meaty in feel but sort of hol- 2028—this will last for ages. Monsieur Touton blend is more round and amorphous than strong. low in the midpalate. Savory beefy berry flavors ­Selection Ltd. —M.S. Minty, herbal plum flavors finish with chocolaty oak finish full and chunky, with moderate acidity and abv: 14.5% Price: $35 and pulpy weight. Drink through 2022. The Wine verve. Go Wine LLC. —M.S. Group. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $15 François Lurton 2014 Chacayes (Uco Valley). abv: NA Price: $NA 91 An opaque purple color and inky aromas of Masi Tupungato 2016 Passo Doble Made with blueberry and cassis introduce this bold Malbec Trapiche 2013 Iscay Syrah-Viognier (Men- 87 Organic Grapes Malbec-Corvina (Uco Valley). blend that also smells of char and maple. A fully 90 doza). Woodsy foresty berry aromas are Grapey aromas are exotic and unusual for ­Mendoza, packed palate is on the cusp of overextracted, while charred and gritty, with gamy funky Syrah notes which makes sense seeing that this is a blend of this tastes of jammy but generic black fruits. A mild in the lead. A pinchy palate with squeaky tannins Malbec and Corvina, the latter an Italian variety. toast flavor simmers in the background of a plodding delivers a big blast of fully toasted and herbal black- A plump fleshy palate is more globular and chunky finish. Drink through 2022. Atlas Imports. —M.S. fruit flavors and chocolate. On the finish, minty oak than finessed, while this tastes dark, blackened and abv: 15% Price: $80 and wood-grain flavors have not yet settled. Drink like stewed black grapes prior to a slightly bitter through 2025. The Wine Group. —M.S. ­finish. Kobrand. —M.S. Piattelli 2015 Trinità Grand Reserve (Luján de abv: 14.5% Price: $70 abv: 14% Price: $18 91 Cuyo). Ripe berry and fig aromas come with

78 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 Piattelli 2017 Reserva Malbec-Tannat (Cafay- acidity. Weedy foxy raspberry and plum flavors Chakana 2016 Inkarri Made With Organic 87 ate). A saturated purple color along with f­inish with high acidity and not much body. Red 84 Grapes Estate Bottled White (Mendoza). stalky, slightly reduced black-fruit aromas lead to Puro Imports. —M.S. Mildly oxidized, oily aromas are low on fruit and a fully extracted palate with grabby tannins and not abv: 13.5% Price: $10 play up haystack and stalky notes. This unusual much finesse. Burnt, roasted plum and berry flavors ­organic-grape blend is Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier are savory more than fruity and ripe, while this and Chardonnay, and it’s yellowish in color as well Malbec-Tannat blend is smoky, peppery and tannic OTHER RED WINES as full and almost creamy on the palate. Dry apple on a drying finish. Vinocopia. —M.S. flavors turn bitter on a flat finish. Natural Merchants, abv: 14.5% Price: $16 El Esteco 2016 Don David Reserve Tannat Inc. —M.S. 90 (Calchaquí Valley). This Tannat from Salta abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Trivento 2016 Amado Sur (Mendoza). A smells a touch mulchy and meaty, which is normal 86 deep purple color and gummy aromas of for the variety and region. A full fleshy palate offers blackberry and raisin lead to a full but collapsed soft tannins and little resistance. Toasty blackberry CALIFORNIA palate with a hint of volatility. Blackberry and and cassis flavors wrap up on a finish with dense herbal plum flavors come with bitter oak notes, tannins and some excess weight and heat. For CHARDONNAY while this Malbec blend doesn’t project much fruit an authentic taste of Tannat, this is where to go. on a short finish. Excelsior Wines. —M.S. ­Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. Alpha Omega 2015 Toyon Vineyard Chardon- abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 13.9% Price: $17 95 nay (Los Carneros). This lovely vineyard- designate is expertly put together, showing honeyed Proemio 2015 Reserve Syrah-Garnacha Durigutti 2017 Proyecto Las Compuertas concentration and evolved flavors of baked apple 84 (Mendoza). Overtly ripe aromas of prune, 82 Cordisco (Luján de Cuyo). With a color like and apricot. Floral in honeysuckle and apple blos- fig and raisin go overboard and don’t smell that cranberry juice and gritty aromas that are low on som, it has substantive layers of bold texture and fresh or vital. On the palate, this blend of Syrah and fruit and heavy on asphalt and leather, this is an body, with a steely undertow of fresh acidity. —V.B. Grenache is raisiny and tannic. Stewy berry flavors off-beat varietal Montepulciano. A light lucid palate abv: 14.5% Price: $125 are jammy, while that same character is displayed contains tart lean flavors of currant and pie cherry. on an overripe finish. —M.S. The Artisan Collection. —M.S. Black Kite 2016 Gap’s Crown Chardonnay abv: 14.6% Price: $NA abv: 11.7% Price: $NA 95 (Sonoma Coast). This has gorgeous aromas of ginger and crushed rock, a stony mineral com- Zolo 2017 Signature Red Sustainably Farmed ponent that’s irresistible and memorable. Balanced 84 Estate Grown and Bottled (Mendoza).­ WHITE WINES in richness, it sings in baked pear and honeysuckle, Roasted berry aromas are rubbery, herbal and finding a touch of restraint within a medium-bodied slightly weedy. This feels chunky and heavy, with Zolo 2018 Sustainably Farmed Estate Grown frame of welcome decadence. —V.B. flavors of stewed berry fruits, forced oak and clove. 87 and Bottled Sauvignon Blanc (Mendoza). abv: 14.4% Price: $58 Creamy weight, rubbery tannins and a note of cara- Light citrus aromas come with a note of freshly cut mel complete the finish on this basic red blend. grass. A healthy palate with citrusy acidity is light- Donum 2016 Year of the Monkey Single Vine- Vino Del Sol. —M.S. weight and easy to process. Green-apple and cit- 94 yard Chardonnay (Carneros). For full review abv: 13.8% Price: $10 rus flavors don’t break down on a finish with edgy see page 5. ­energy. Vino Del Sol. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $60 Santa Julia 2017 Reserva Mountain Blend abv: NA Price: $10 83 Malbec-Cabernet Franc (Valle de Uco). Foxy Dragonette 2016 Rita’s Crown Vineyard berry aromas are candied, jumpy and not serious. Wapisa 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Río Negro 94 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Bright citrus This blend of Malbec and Cab Franc is edgy on the 86 Valley). White-citrus aromas are fresh and aromas meet with clay-like minerality and richer palate, with questionable structure. Herbal, sappy pointy. Punchy citric acidity and a lean body make nutty aromas on the nose of this single-vineyard and saucy flavors finish without much to savor. this a racy Sauvignon Blanc with little depth. Sim- expression from atop the Sta. Rita Hills. The palate ­Winesellers, Ltd. —M.S. ple grapefruit, orange and celery flavors continue on combines edgy tang with richness, pairing lemon abv: 13.5% Price: $13 a bright finish. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. cream with white peach, citrus peel with custard, abv: 12.5% Price: $15 making for a fascinating sip that will please many. Sayanca 2017 Red (Mendoza). Flat candied —M.K. 83 red-berry aromas come with an artificial Zolo 2018 Sustainably Farmed Estate abv: 14.4% Price: $60 coating of clove. This mystery red blend is fleshy 86 Grown and Bottled Torrontés (Mendoza). and smacking on the palate, with herbal flavors High-toned aromas of citrus extract, scented soap Dutton-Goldfield 2016 Dutton Ranch Walker of tomato, red plum and red apple. Sticky tannins and talcum powder are correct for Torrontés. This 94 Hill Chardonnay (Green Valley). For full fatten up the finish. Prestige Beverage Group.Best quaffable white is lean yet a bit oily in feel. Short review see page 5. Buy. —M.S. tropical-fruit flavors turn phenolic and peppery on abv: 14.1% Price: $50 abv: 12.5% Price: $5 the finish, something that’s not uncommon for the variety. Vino Del Sol. Best Buy. —M.S. Williams Selyem 2016 Lewis MacGregor Dos Familias 2017 Balcón de los Andes Sweet abv: NA Price: $11 94 Estate Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River 82 Red (Mendoza). A mostly neutral nose Valley). For full review see page 6. includes a hint of soupy berry fruit. A sticky palate Zolo 2018 Unoaked Sustainably Farmed abv: 14.7% Price: $65 is gummed up by heavy residual sugar, while this 86 Estate Grown and Bottled Chardonnay tastes like cherry candy without acidity. Harrison (Mendoza).­ A tannish color and mild tropical-fruit De Loach 2016 Ritchie Vineyard Middle Reach Imports. —M.S. aromas open this pulpy-feeling unoaked Chardon- 93 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full abv: 13.5% Price: $12 nay. Lychee and white-grapefruit flavors are simple review see page 7. as pie before landing on a short finish that peters abv: 14.5% Price: $52 Pindal 2017 Made With Organic Grapes Red out quickly. Vino Del Sol. Best Buy. —M.S. 82 (Mendoza). Gritty roasted red-fruit aromas abv: NA Price: $10 Dragonette 2016 Duvarita Vineyard Char- set up a thin choppy palate emboldened by citric 93 donnay (Santa Barbara County). Delicate at

WINEMAG.COM | 79

BUYINGGUIDE first on the nose, this bottling from a vineyard that’s savory broth with lemony acidity. It walks the line Williams Selyem 2016 Williams Selyem northwest of the Sta. Rita Hills offers honeysuckle, between a racy and rich feel. —M.K. 92 Estate Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River light pineapple, candied orange rind and a hint of abv: 13.9% Price: $45 Valley). For full review see page 10. pecan on the nose. The palate is rounded with yel- abv: 14.5% Price: $65 low-melon, orange-cream and walnut flavors, prov- Patz & Hall 2016 Kent Ritchie Vineyard Char- ing unique and complex. —M.K. 92 donnay (Russian River Valley). From a great Alpha Omega 2015 Drew Vineyard Chardon- abv: 14% Price: $60 vineyard sourced by this producer for some time, 91 nay (Mount Veeder). A barrel-fermented this wine impresses in its sublime texture and inte- white, this features an unexpectedly steely entry Fort Ross Vineyard 2016 Fort Ross Vineyard grated oak, the fruit profile of Gravenstein apple and of bright integrated acidity that keeps it fresh and 93 Chardonnay (Fort Ross-Seaview). From pear is fleshy and lush. Bright acidity keeps the pal- focused. It evolves to offer layers of texture and bold a field selection planted to old Hyde and Wente ate fresh and ready for more. —V.B. clear flavors of green apple and Meyer lemon. —V.B. clones, this white has soft rounded corners of cara- abv: 14.2% Price: $65 abv: 14% Price: $125 mel oak and vanilla bean. The complex, balanced richness is defined in tropical fruit accented by a Patz & Hall 2016 Zio Tony Ranch Chardon- Bonterra 2016 The Roost Blue Heron Vineyard brightness of tangerine and white peach. —V.B. 92 nay (Russian River Valley). This is a thick, 91 Chardonnay (Mendocino County). For full abv: 13.5% Price: $44 intense and boldly concentrated wine, balanced in its review see page 10. richness by supportive acidity. Gravenstein apple fla- abv: 13.5% Price: $40 Jax 2017 Dutton Ranch 7 Barrels Chardonnay vors are nearly baked in flavor, with bolts of nutmeg 93 (Russian River Valley). For full review see and cinnamon adding intrigue and complexity. —V.B. Center of Effort 2015 Chardonnay (Edna Val- page 7. abv: 14.4% Price: $70 91 ley). For full review see page 11. abv: 14.2% Price: $40 abv: 14.2% Price: $35 Rubino Estates Winery 2016 Landmark Col- Ken Brown 2016 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). 92 lection Chardonnay (Livermore Valley). This De Loach 2016 Heintz Vineyard Chardonnay 93 This appellation blend of Rita’s Crown and is a dry but so rich it could almost be 91 (Green Valley). For full review see page 11. Huber vineyards offers the classic California Char- served as dessert. It pull out all the stops, start- abv: 14.5% Price: $52 donnay experience but with expert balance. Aro- ing with a deep gold color and aromas like marzi- mas of white peach, blanched almonds and crisp pan and poached pears to mouth-coating butter- Dutton-Goldfield 2016 Rued Vineyard Char- lime peel lead into a oak-kissed palate, where Gra- scotch, pineapple and honey flavors. Full body and a 91 donnay (Russian River Valley). This is floral venstein apple and yellow-pear richness are deftly creamy, viscous texture help to create an extra long in jasmine and steely on the midpalate—a beau- cut by lemon wedge sizzle and a chalky taut frame. finish. —J.G. tiful white wine that’s balanced and elegant in Editors’­ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $40 approach. With a good grip of tannin and oak, it abv: 13.9% Price: $38 shines in sharp flavors of green apple, Meyer lemon Saxon Brown 2015 Hyde Vineyard Chardon- and crème brûlée., while the richness is seasoned in Niner 2016 JR Reserve Chardonnay (Edna 92 nay (Carneros). Golden apple and pear fla- nutmeg. —V.B. 93 Valley). For full review see page 7. vors shine brightly in this beautifully made white, abv: 13.5% Price: $55 abv: 13.5% Price: $50 with its golden oaky quality of integrated wood. Gritty and grippy, it has texture and weight in good Fernwood 2016 Vanumanutagi Vineyard Char- Saxon Brown 2016 Etre Chardonnay (Sonoma measure and balance, with a stony mineral quality 91 donnay (Santa Cruz Mountains). There’s a 93 Coast). Low in oak and high in acidity, this is and lingering succulence of white peach. —V.B. compelling dairy component to the nose of this bot- an earthy herbal white that’s stony and salty, captur- abv: 14.1% Price: $60 tling, but more toward yogurt rather than butter, and ing full-on the spirit of the ocean. Light and lemony, then the aromas evolve into white peach and crushed it has complexity and elegance in spades. —V.B. Saxon Brown 2015 Sangiacomo Vineyard nuts. A salty edge leads the palate, where lemon zest, abv: 13.5% Price: $40 92 Green Acres Chardonnay (Carneros). Salty, roasted apple and oak smoke ride a racy acid-driven briny oak gives a lift to the bolder richer flavors of sip. —M.K. Donum 2016 Year of the Monkey Single Vine- baked pear in this lovely vineyard-designate, made abv: 14.1% Price: $34 92 yard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For in small amounts. Caramel and vanilla accent a full review see page 8. nicely lush, yet balanced palate of full flavor and Hess Collection 2016 The Lioness Estate abv: 14.3% Price: $60 grace. —V.B. 91 Grown Chardonnay (Napa Valley). For full abv: 14.5% Price: $60 review see page 11. Friedeman 2016 UV Lancel Creek Chardon- abv: 14.8% Price: $65 92 nay (Russian River Valley). A robust entry Topa Mountain Winery 2016 Bien Nacido of crisp acidity and lively pineapple fruit impresses 92 Vineyard Reserve Chardonnay (Santa Maria Hirsch 2016 Hirsch Estate Chardonnay (Fort immediately in this vineyard-designate that’s well Valley). Fresh Meyer lemon peel and lime are driz- 91 Ross-Seaview). This is an acid-driven, made and memorable. Rounded integrated oak gives zled atop pear brioche, nut cream and oak on the sharply focused white, tense and fresh with exotic it a pleasurable texture and length that’s both com- nose of this expressive, fresh bottling from an Ojai- waves of green apple and Meyer lemon. The oak is plex and inviting. —V.B. based winery. It’s tightly wound on the palate with subdued and secondary to the briny, stony taste of abv: 14.4% Price: $50 fresh honeysuckle and light white peach flavors, fin- the forest and sea. —V.B. ishing with a chalky grip. —M.K. abv: 12.9% Price: $60 Les Belles Collines 2016 Chardonnay (Rus- abv: 12.9% Price: $38 92 sian River Valley). For full review see page 9. J. Wilkes 2017 Chardonnay (Santa Maria Val- abv: 14.7% Price: $40 Williams Selyem 2016 Allen Vineyard Char- 91 ley). For full review see page 12. 92 donnay (Russian River Valley). For full abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Longoria 2016 Cuvée Diana Chardonnay (Sta. review see page 10. 92 Rita Hills). This bottling needs some time to abv: 14.6% Price: $65 Jax 2017 Y3 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). For breathe, but once it opens, there are aromas of oak, 91 full review see page 12. Meyer lemon and grapefruit pith on the nose. The abv: 14.1% Price: $20 palate combines flavors of salty crushed nuts and

80 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 La Crema 2016 Chardonnay (Los Carneros). Hess Collection 2016 Estate Grown Chardon- apple, pear and nutmeg, with just enough acidity to 91 This is a tremendous value for the quality, a 90 nay (Napa Valley). For full review see page keep a level of freshness through the finish.Editors’ full embrace of crème brûlée and baked pear that’s 14. Editors’ Choice. Choice. —V.B. grainy in texture and bright in acidity. Minimal oak abv: 14.2% Price: $22 abv: 14.3% Price: $30 allows for a succulent experience on the balanced palate, finishing in a burst of lemon zest and key Hess Collection 2016 Panthera Chardonnay Crū 2017 Sierra Madre Vineyard Chardon- lime. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. 90 (Russian River Valley). For full review see 89 nay (Santa Maria Valley). Broad peach and abv: 13.5% Price: $30 page 14. ripe melon aromas lead into pear flesh, banana chip abv: 14.3% Price: $45 and brioche on the dynamic nose of this bottling. Martellotto 2017 Melodeon Chardonnay There is a toasty flavor to the sip, with apple butter 91 (Santa Barbara County). Golden-apple, Hess Collection 2016 Small Block Series on pastry tones riding a chalky tension. It is a very lemon-extract and toasted marshmallow aromas 90 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Mount Veeder). lively wine though quite ripe. —M.K. immediately reveal that this is a California Char- Entirely stainless-steel fermented, this is an abv: 14.1% Price: $35 donnay, but one held in balance. The palate is clean impressive estate wine, highly aromatic in honey- and crisp with lemon and Asian pear flesh flavors, suckle. Structured and fleshy on the midpalate, it Dragonette 2016 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita woven by a firm grip and strong acidity. —M.K. has full-bodied ripeness and a concentration of rich 89 Hills). This is a very Sauvignon Blanc-like abv: 13.5% Price: $35 white-peach and apricot flavor. —V.B. take on Chardonnay, starting with aromas of lemon- abv: 14.7% Price: $55 grass, lime leaf, lemon balm and a steely edge. The Red Car 2015 Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay palate is tense with melon and pear-rind flavors as 91 (Sonoma­ Coast). Tangy oranges and tanger- J Vineyards & Winery 2016 Strata Estate well as more grassy tones. —M.K. ines accent sculpted acidity in this textured, gritty 90 Grown Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). abv: 14.2% Price: $40 white from the always impressive vineyard site. For full review see page 14. With just a touch of reduction, it has understated abv: 14.3% Price: $40 Amici 2016 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). elegance and a light-bodied style. —V.B. 88 This is an amazing price point for a wine abv: 13.2% Price: $58 Kunde 2016 Estate Grown Chardonnay of quality and great vineyard sourcing. Steely high- 90 (Sonoma Valley). For full review see page toned acidity girds a midpalate that’s low in oak and Saxon Brown 2015 Durell Vineyard Chardon- 15. subdued in crisp apple fruit, with just a touch of 91 nay (Sonoma Coast). Dark gold in color, this abv: 13.8% Price: $18 tannin on the finish.Editors’ Choice. —V.B. is a meaty, substantial white, tremendously flavor- abv: 13.9% Price: $25 ful in tropical and stone-fruit notes and an intensity Landmark 2016 Damaris Reserve Chardon- of savory spice. —V.B. 90 nay (Sonoma Coast). For full review see Char Char 2016 Chardonnay (Russian River abv: 14.4% Price: $60 page 15. 88 Valley). With a steely core of apple, pear abv: 14.3% Price: $35 and lemon, this wine takes on a considerable con- Williams Selyem 2016 Drake Estate Vineyard centration of richness midpalate, with subtle oak 91 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full Longboard 2016 Rochioli Vineyard Chardon- playing a supporting role. The texture is creamy and review see page 13. 90 nay (Russian River Valley). This wine offers voluptuously lush. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $65 a richness of caramelized oak and toffee that takes abv: 14.5% Price: $48 on an intensity in the midpalate. It settles into B Cellars 2016 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay a more balanced presentation of apple, pear and Crū 2016 Paraiso Vineyard Chardonnay 90 (Russian River Valley). Dark-golden color melon with a lushness on the finish. —V.B. 88 (Santa Lucia Highlands). Very light in color gives way to a rich, rounded exploration of baked abv: 13.7% Price: $49 in the glass, this single-vineyard expression shows apple, nutmeg and toasted oak in this well-made light chalky aromas on the nose alongside lemon vineyard-designate. The creamier, concentrated Matchbook 2017 Estate Bottled Old Head peel and candied honeysuckle. Green-apple-flesh tones are given a lift of freshness from persistent 90 Chardonnay (Dunnigan Hills). For full flavors pop on the palate with bright citrus flashes. acidity. —V.B. review see page 103. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $49 abv: 13.9% Price: $15 abv: 13.8% Price: $30

Buena Vista 2016 Jovita’s Selection Char- Olema 2016 Chardonnay (Sonoma County). Iron Hub 2016 Small Lot Chardonnay (Sierra 90 donnay (Sonoma Coast). This is a well- 90 This is wine well worth stockpiling, such a 88 Foothills). This full-bodied, ripe and rich made, full-bodied white that delivers honeyed fla- good deal it is for the price. Hearty creamy ripeness wine swells with melon and pineapple flavors and vors of salted pretzel and toasted oak. The bolder is balanced and complemented by bold robust stone feels soft and lazy in texture. It has low acidity and a richer elements are complemented by bright bursts fruit, baked apple and a lingering thread of stony buttery thread running through it. —J.G. of orange blossom, grapefruit and lemon pith. —V.B. mineral. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $28 abv: 14.5% Price: $44 abv: 13.8% Price: $16 J Vineyards & Winery 2016 Bow Tie Vineyard FEL 2017 Chardonnay (Anderson Valley). A Robert Hall 2016 Cavern Select Chardonnay 88 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Russian River 90 good sense of concentration and balance 90 (Paso Robles). Clean aromas of toast, oak, Valley). This is a moderately structured, lushly lay- in this medium-bodied wine give it an appetizing butter and nectarine cream make for a strong show- ered and unabashedly ripe white wine, rich and full- appeal. Fresh apple and pear aromas are lightly ing of a Paso Robles Chardonnay. There is great grip bodied in every way. Tropical mango and pineapple shaded with baking spices, and the flavors follow to the palate right away, with flavors of lime and veer into baked flavors of additional concentration with plenty of fruit, good acidity and a light tang on apple skin leading into a toasted oak finish. —M.K. and voluptuousness. —V.B. the finish. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $28 abv: 14.8% Price: $45 abv: 13.7% Price: $32 Stags’ Leap Winery 2016 Chardonnay (Napa Jeremy Wine Co 2017 Shinn Vineyard Char- 90 Valley). This white offers tremendous 88 donnay (Lodi). Hints of butterscotch and value, being bright, floral and fruity with a touch of caramel in the aroma of this full-bodied wine are restraint. Integrated ripeness and oak are etched in followed by baked apple and brown-sugar flavors

WINEMAG.COM | 81

BUYINGGUIDE and a rich soft texture. It has an appealing creami- Red Car 2015 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). rience continues on the sip, which is both lush in ness both in the flavors and the mouthfeel. —J.G. 86 Steely and measured in ripeness, this wine mouthfeel yet very grassy and herbal in flavor with abv: 14.2% Price: $24 is acid driven and crisp in style—a layered expres- green pepper, basil and lime leaf. —M.K. sion of green apple and lemon. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $45 Kokomo 2016 Mukaida Vineyard Winemaker’s abv: 13.5% Price: $38 88 Reserve Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Heritance 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- This medium-bodied white has soft rounded cor- Tamber Bey 2016 Deux Chevaux Vineyard 92 ley). For full review see page 8. ners of structure and flavor, a mix of tangy lemon 86 Dijon Chardonnay (Yountville). Big, soft and abv: 14.2% Price: $18 and crunchy Gravenstein apple. The oak is helpful fruity with a touch of confectionery richness, this and well incorporated. —V.B. wine offers intense ripeness and moderate struc- Captûre 2017 Tradition Sauvignon Blanc abv: 14.3% Price: $44 ture. —V.B. 91 (Sonoma County). This is a complex, impres- abv: 14.7% Price: $60 sive white with a creamy lush entry that evolves on Sola 2016 Chardonnay (Paso Robles). the palate to offer crisp fleshy elements of white 88 Lemon peels and apple rinds meet with Josh Cellars 2017 Chardonnay (California). peach and lime. The midpalate is balanced in rich- steely, almost ashy aromas on the nose of this bot- 85 This is a decent commercial wine that’s ness, leading the way to a bold herbal grassy finish. tling. There is a good sizzle at first to the palate, medium bodied, lightly tart at first and plenty —V.B. which moves into apple-blossom, sour lime and fruity. It turns richer, almost sweet, on the palate as abv: 13.5% Price: $25 toasted nuts flavors. —M.K. vanilla and butter notes come forward. —J.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Robert Mondavi 2015 Fumé Blanc (Oakville). 91 This has 14% Sémillon. Together, the white Clos La Chance 2017 Murphy’s Choice Char- The Seeker 2017 Chardonnay (California). grapes form a fleshy, floral core of bold full-bodied 87 donnay (Santa Cruz Mountains). Broad aro- 85 This soft-textured wine combines light cit- flavor and lemony oak, the structure impressively mas of poached pear, clotted cream, cashew and rus aromas and heavier poached pear and vanilla complex and lasting in texture. —V.B. a hint of toasted brioche show on the nose of this flavors. It tastes fat and full, low in acidity and a abv: 14.5% Price: $40 bottling. The palate is clean although very light in touch sweet. —J.G. flavor, offering green-pear and key lime pie touches. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Amici 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). —M.K. 90 From a selection of vineyards in Oak Knoll, abv: 14.4% Price: $35 Educated Guess 2016 Chardonnay (Carne- Yountville and St. Helena, this crisp white is floral 84 ros). Soft and oaky, this wine has a fruit- and lemony, with moderate weight and breadth. Olelo 2017 Chardonnay (Central Coast). forward tropical edge that finds companionship in It’s made in a steely, straightforward style with an 87 Fresh aromas of yellow pear, sharp lime and sweet notions of vanilla and nougat. —V.B. intensity that lingers on the finish. —V.B. a hint of crushed white rocks show on the nose of abv: 14.6% Price: $25 abv: 13.7% Price: $25 this bottling. The palate is loaded with lime flavors reminiscent of a margarita, along with toasted oak. Geyser Peak 2017 Chardonnay (California). Concannon 2017 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc —M.K. 84 This wine is very fruity, tastes sugary and 90 (Sonoma County). This is a successful, abv: 14.1% Price: $15 thick and has low acidity for a soft mouthfeel. It’s small-production white that’s bright, textured and simple and uncomplicated. —J.G. memorable in swathes of well-heeled grapefruit Silverpoint Cellars 2016 Chardonnay (Peta- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 and Meyer lemon. A grassy undertone of pea shoots 87 luma Gap). The grapes for this wine come plays well against the crisp fruit. —V.B. from the Rodgers Creek Vineyard in the new appel- Sean Minor 2017 Chardonnay (Sonoma abv: 13.9% Price: $28 lation. This is a hearty barrel-fermented white 84 Coast). This is a nutty, somewhat reduced that’s lush and luxurious, moderate in oak with big white, steely and light in ripeness. The flavors lean Flint & Steel 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa flavors of marshmallow, peach and vanilla. —V.B. into Meyer lemon mousse and anise. —V.B. 90 Valley). Aged entirely in stainless steel, abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $22 this pretty, appropriately named white is floral and herbal, tasting strongly of grapefruit pith and lemon Toad Hollow 2017 Francine’s Selection peel. The flavors lead to accompanying textures of 87 ­Unoaked Chardonnay (Mendocino). An SAUVIGNON BLANC light-bodied weight and refreshment. —V.B. earthy aroma blows off and this medium-bodied abv: 13.5% Price: $16 wine reveals appealing fresh apple and light spice Aperture 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Bennett flavors, buttery accents and good balance. —J.G. 94 Valley). For full review see page 4. Kunde 2017 Magnolia Lane Estate Grown abv: 13.9% Price: $15 abv: 14.1% Price: $35 90 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma Valley). For full review see page 15. Z. Alexander Brown 2017 Uncaged Chardon- Lail 2017 Blueprint Sauvignon Blanc (Napa abv: 13.8% Price: $17 87 nay (Santa Lucia Highlands). Rounded aro- 93 Valley).­ Always impressive, this is a fleshy, mas of yellow apple and lemon wedge show on the boldly structured white wine, offering a tremendous Markham 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- nose of this bottling by the country music star. It’s palate of exotic flavor. Lemon rind, wet stone, peach 90 ley). Blended with 12% Sémillon, this very zippy on the palate, carrying flavors of honey- and a grittiness of background oak mingle effort- white is steel and floral, with a lemony core that’s dew, ripe pear and peach, that are seeming a touch lessly within a moderate richness of balanced com- more balanced and elegant than fruit forward. Wet sweet. —M.K. plexity. —V.B. stone and jasmine accent it well. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 abv: 14.3% Price: $40 abv: 13.8% Price: $19

Aviary 2015 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Dragonette 2016 Grassini Family Vineyard Merry Edwards 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Rus- 86 Green-olive and marshmallow flavors mesh 92 Sauvignon Blanc (Happy Canyon of Santa Bar- 90 sian River Valley). A perennially popular in a fleshy, fruity mix of yin-yang flavor in this bara). Intense aromas of Sauvignon Blanc dominate and well-made wine, this vintage is no exception, lightly ripe white. —V.B. this bottling, including sharp lawn cuttings, lemon- shining in concentrated, layers of rich, bold flavor. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 grass, argan oil and even cut garden hose, yet there’s A sweetness of peach and vanilla complement a a slight hint of peach as well. The dynamic expe-

82 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 more exotic element of rose petal and black licorice. this is a ripe full-bodied white that’s fleshy and con- vide fleshy fruit flavors complemented by wet stone —V.B. centrated in richness. —V.B. and lingering texture. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $36 abv: 14.5% Price: $24 abv: 14.1% Price: $32

Oberon 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- Houdini 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Noble Tree 2016 Noble Blanc (Chalk Hill). 90 ley). Blended with nearly 18% Sauvignon 85 Sharp acidity girds a steely, austere expres- 90 This blend of Grenache Blanc and Viognier Musque, this is fermented in both stainless steel sion of the variety, stony in lemon peel, grapefruit does justice to both varieties, showing characteris- and oak. Dried herb, lemon peel and peach shine and jasmine. —V.B. tics of honeysuckle, wet stone and lemon peel in a along a thread of stony minerality and texture, the abv: 13.9% Price: $22 light, crisp package of elegant ripeness. Peach and body balanced and impressively robust. —V.B. apple round out the fresh flavors. —V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $19 Longwood 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- abv: 13.4% Price: $20 85 ley). Herbal and grassy, this offers aromas Decoy 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma of pea shoots and lemon rind, with a thickness on Leitmotif 2017 Cuvée Amiliana (Santa Bar- 88 County). Light and bright in well-defined the palate that persists in a mix of stone fruit and 89 bara County). This blend of 50% Viognier flavors of white peach and apricot, this is a fulsome, lemongrass. —V.B. and 50% Grenache Blanc offers edgy and sharp aro- balanced white, quiet and subtle in flavor with abv: 13% Price: $NA mas of lime pith and lemon skin but also rounded crisp, focused acidity. —V.B. touches of white peach and singed guava. There is a abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Reynoso 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Alexander linear line of energy to the palate, which is tight and 83 Valley). This white is disjointed, a bit dull bright although a touch sour, with cooked lemon Frei Brothers 2017 Sonoma Reserve Sauvi- on the palate with dizzying flavors of green apple flavors. —M.K. 88 gnon Blanc (Russian River Valley). Grassy, and olive. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $24 herbal and strongly full bodied, this white is tex- abv: 13.7% Price: $25 tured and tannic, with an ongoing grittiness of wet Lion Ranch 2016 Lion’s Share (Santa Clara stone. The fruit is a mix of peach and pineapple. 89 Valley). Smoke, peach rinds, sour lemon —V.B. WHITE BLENDS and struck matchstick show on the nose of this abv: 14.5% Price: $20 blend of 37% Roussanne, 36% Viognier, 22% Mar- B Cellars 2017 Blend 23 (Napa County-­ sanne and 5% Picpoul Blanc. A very zesty mouth- Jamieson Ranch 2017 Silver Spur Sauvignon 92 Sonoma County). This is made from 60% feel is full of zippy acidity, delivering smoked lemon 88 Blanc (Napa Valley). Floral and herbal, this Sauvignon Blanc, 35% Chardonnay and 5% and dried peach flavors. —M.K. has high-toned acidity and a grassy element that’s ­Viognier, some of the wine stainless-steel fermented,­ abv: 13.3% Price: $23 earthy and within the wine’s style. Stony texture some barrel or concrete-egg fermented. Together, adds complexity to the stone fruit and lemon. —V.B. they offer a lively hit of bright grapefruit, apricot and Eponymous 2016 Proprietary White (Carne- abv: 14.2% Price: $28 Meyer lemon squeeze. The texture is velvety smooth 88 ros). This blends 84% Pinot Blanc and 16% with a of grip. —V.B. Riesling into a waxy, viscous and floral expression of Precision Wine 2017 Fly By Reserve Sauvi- abv: 14.3% Price: $45 green apple, peach and jasmine. High in acidity, it 88 gnon Blanc (Napa Valley). This is a fruit- offers a touch of weight within a light-bodied ripe- forward and balanced white, crisp and fleshy in Conclusion 2017 The Storyteller (Sonoma ness. —V.B. bold layers of pear and apple. The acidity is nicely 92 County). This proprietary white blends abv: 13.8% Price: $25 integrated. —V.B. 95% Viognier with 5% Sauvignon Blanc. Together abv: 13.5% Price: $15 they’re exotic in sea salt, wet stone and high-toned Gratus 2017 Estate Grown White (Napa floral aromatics of jasmine. The palate is succulent 87 Valley).­ Thick, robust and full bodied, this Robert Mondavi 2017 Fumé Blanc (Napa and restrained, a study in white peach, green apple white is intensely flavored in sweet peach, with a 88 Valley). Blended with 15% Sémillon, this and lemon zest. —V.B. gritty texture that lingers in steely acidity. —V.B. white is bright in lemon, stone and anise, yet full- abv: 13.3% Price: $34 abv: 14.2% Price: $29 bodied in weight and breadth. It has a grip on the palate that emphasizes its ultimate power and con- Paraduxx 2017 Proprietary White (Napa centration of fruit. —V.B. 91 Valley).­ This blends a majority of Viognier OTHER WHITE WINES abv: 14.5% Price: $22 with 27% Chardonnay and 5% each of Roussanne and Marsanne. Inviting floral aromas of apple blos- Crū 2017 Albariño (Edna Valley). For full Kunde 2017 Block 4SB20 Sauvignon Blanc som are followed by textured tangy flavors of grape- 91 review see page 11. 87 (Sonoma Valley). This is from an estate- fruit, green apple and apricot in an integrated, com- abv: 12.4% Price: $20 grown block at 300-feet in elevation. It is an plex package of vibrant elegance. —V.B. intense take on the variety that’s crisp and refresh- abv: 14.1% Price: $32 Crū 2017 French Camp Vineyard Viognier (Paso ing in flinty petrol, lemon and melon. —V.B. 91 Robles). For full review see page 11. abv: 14.2% Price: $25 Anderson Conn Valley 2017 Sarah’s Cuvée abv: 14% Price: $20 90 (Napa Valley). Dark gold in color, this wine Delaney Blue Vineyards 2017 Sauvignon is showy in oak, with a nutty core of richness and Longoria 2017 Clover Creek Vineyard 86 Blanc (Sonoma County). Grassy and herbal, full-bodied flavor. It offers a wealth of green apple, 90 ­Albariño (Santa Ynez Valley). Tightly woven this white is made in an austere style, with little to lemon and lime on the lengthy palate. —V.B. aromas of chalky mandarin zest and faint nectarine no perceptible oak. Light and bright, it has a vegetal abv: 14.2% Price: $85 show on the fresh nose of this bottling by Rick Long- element offset well by a linger of lemon. —V.B. oria. There is bright lemony flavor and crushed chalk abv: 13% Price: $15 Blackbird Vineyards 2017 Dissonance Sauvi- minerality on the palate, and the acid just won’t 90 gnon Blanc-Sémillon (Napa Valley). Blend- quit, even days after opening the bottle. —M.K. Saddleback 2017 Sauvignon Blanc ing 85% Sauvignon Blanc with 15% Sémillon, this abv: 13% Price: $25 86 (Oakville). Exotic in fig and guava flavors, white offers a robust body weight and grip joined by length and breadth. Fig, lemon peel and quince pro-

WINEMAG.COM | 83

BUYINGGUIDE

San Simeon 2017 Stefano Vineyard Viognier Grand Napa 2013 Blanc de Noir (Carneros). berries. It’s light in the glass, with rounded flavors 90 (Paso Robles). For full review see page 15. 90 Made entirely from Pinot Noir, this has of raspberry, cherry and underripe strawberry as abv: 14.5% Price: $22 an impressive mousse that’s light on its feet with well as a clay-like minerality. A chalky mouthfeel bright acidity and plenty of crispness on the palate. leads into a clean and taut finish. —M.K. J. Wilkes 2017 Pinot Blanc (Santa Maria Strawberry, cherry and tangerine mingle along a abv: 14% Price: $115 88 Valley).­ Ripe apple, nectarine and lime- thread of elegance and balance. —V.B. peel aromas make for a very accessible nose on this abv: 11.8% Price: $99 Williams Selyem 2016 Vista Verde Vineyard bottling. There is compelling tension to the palate, 95 Pinot Noir (San Benito County). For full where bright citrusy and yellow-apple flavors get J Vineyards & Winery 2014 Blanc de Noirs review see page 4. Editors’ Choice. a white pepper lift and ride on fresh acidity. It’s a 90 (Russian River Valley). For full review see abv: 13.7% Price: $59 great white wine for many occasions. —M.K. page 14. abv: 13.9% Price: $18 abv: 12.5% Price: $65 Williams Selyem 2016 Weir Vineyard Pinot 95 Noir (Yorkville Highlands). For full review Riaza 2017 Sparkling Verdejo (Clarksburg). see page 4. Cellar Selection. SPARKLING ROSÉS 88 This unusual sparkling wine made from abv: 13.5% Price: $62 Verdejo grapes goes for a doughy complexity that Goldeneye 2015 Brut Rosé (Anderson Valley). starts with an earthy, yeasty aroma and follows Dragonette 2016 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). 91 Rich and full of flavor, this wine offers fruit, through with flavors like freshly baked bread and 94 Though this winery’s single-vineyard spice and some attractive aged complexity in equal mineral water. It’s on the light side in terms of fruit expressions are awesome, this appellation blend is measures. It has an earthy toasty gingery aroma, character, and is light to medium bodied. —J.G. also a strong choice. Intense aromas of tart pome- mellow cherry and raspberry flavors and a mouth- abv: 11.2% Price: $29 granate, cinnamon, sumac and turned soil lead into filling mousse. —J.G. a smooth, fresh and high-toned palate of rhubarb abv: 12% Price: $58 Dark Horse NV Brut (California). Light, dry and French toast flavors.Editors’ Choice. —M.K. 87 and very crisp, this wine has aromas and abv: 14.2% Price: $45 Fiddletown Cellars 2017 Sparkling Rosé flavors like Pippin apples and a lean appetizing tex- 90 (Amador County). Dry and crisp, this sur- ture. It shows plenty of good, bracing acidity, rather Dutton-Goldfield 2016 Fox Den Vineyard prising wine made from Zinfandel grapes has a low alcohol and a bone-dry finish. —J.G. 94 ­Pinot Noir (Green Valley). For full review see sophisticated and complex lees-aged character that abv: 12% Price: $13 page 5. gives a toasty note to the aroma, and light earthy abv: 13.5% Price: $62 oaky ginger and cherry flavors on the palate. While Days of Youth NV The Diver Brut (California). medium bodied, it is well concentrated and inter- 86 This plush and frothy wine offers attractive, Friedeman 2016 UV Lancel Creek Pinot Noir esting to taste. —J.G. low-key apple and butter aromas and flavors, and a 94 (Russian River Valley). Soft and nicely inte- abv: 12% Price: $25 smooth soft mouth-filling effervescence. —J.G. grated, this full-bodied wine is robustly built yet abv: 11.8% Price: $17 sublime in its grasp of firm tannin and fresh acidity. Karah Estate 2018 Tendance Passante (Cali- Flavors of raspberry, cherry, mint and an earthy for- 88 fornia). This is a fun, pop-top wine, orange- est floor component complement each other well. pink in color, a blend of Pinot Noir and Chenin PINOT NOIR —V.B. Blanc. An inviting, floral-candied note of water- abv: 14.6% Price: $60 melon Jolly Rancher leads to interesting flavors of Bien Nacido Estate 2015 LXXIII Reserve hazelnut and lemon, with plenty of acidity to buoy 96 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). For full Goldeneye 2015 Confluence Vineyard the light body. —V.B. review see page 3. 94 Lower Bench Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). abv: 11.8% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $100 Intensely expressive fruit flavors carry this full- boded wine from first whiff through lingering finish. Dark Horse NV Brut Rosé (California). This Bien Nacido Estate 2015 The Captain Bright black-cherry tones meet violets in the aroma, 87 wine is nicely balanced, delicate and appeal- 96 Reserve Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). For while black cherry, blackberry and rhubarb fill out ing, with light body, subtle cherry flavors and tiny full review see page 3. the palate. The flavors are unusually pure and well bubbles that give a seamless texture. It was made abv: 13% Price: $100 delineated and the balance is spot-on, as moderate with 55% Pinot Noir, 37% Chardonnay and the tannins and good fruit acidity bolster the mouthfeel. remainder other grape varieties. —J.G. Center of Effort 2015 Pinot Noir (Edna —J.G. abv: 12% Price: $13 96 Valley).­ For full review see page 3. abv: 14.5% Price: $84 abv: 14.4% Price: $50 Days of Youth NV The Diver Brut Rosé (Cali- MacPhail 2016 Pratt Vineyard Pinot Noir 83 fornia). A deep pink color and vivid candied- Leitmotif 2016 Duvarita Vineyard Pinot Noir 94 (Sonoma Coast). This red is floral and fruit flavors make this wine taste like a still rosé with 95 (Santa Barbara County). This is a phenome- brimming in stony minerality. Tight-grained tan- added bubbles. It starts with a metallic aroma, and nal start for the small-batch side project by Stephen nins wrap around spicy red fruit and savory notions continues with lightly sweet cherry flavors. —J.G. Searle, whose main job is running Jaffurs Winery. of forest floor and black tea as full-bodied ripeness abv: 11.8% Price: $17 Intense aromas of Bing cherry jelly, crushed rocks is balanced by walls of structure and fresh, juicy and dried sage show on the nose, while the palate acidity. —V.B. combines wild berry and minty flavors with a strong abv: 14.8% Price: $55 OTHER SPARKLING WINES chalky grip, proving both luxurious and refreshing. —M.K. Saxon Brown 2014 Fighting Brothers Pinot Iron Horse 2014 Wedding Cuvée Estate Bot- abv: 13.3% Price: $46 94 Noir (Sonoma Coast). A very earthy, spicy 95 tled Sparkling Wine (Green Valley).­ For full wine, this delights in red cherry, pomegranate and review see page 4. Sanford 2014 Founders’ Vines Pinot Noir black tea, the body complex and full bodied with abv: 13.5% Price: $45 95 (Sta. Rita Hills). This single-block expres- impressive density. Crisp, fresh acidity lies beneath sion is extremely earthy on the nose with aromas the richness, complementing and refreshing. —V.B. of loamy soil, wet gravel, sumac, cinnamon and wild abv: 14.5% Price: $50

84 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 Williams Selyem 2016 Allen Vineyard Pinot Red Car 2015 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Black Kite 2016 Stony Terrace Pinot Noir 94 Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review 93 Delicate layers of raspberry and strawberry 92 (Anderson­ Valley). This wine squeezes lots see page 6. define this coastal wine, which is deliciously layered of bright fruit flavors into a tight frame of good abv: 13.9% Price: $85 and lightly complex. Pomegranate and blood orange acidity and moderate tannins. It’s medium to full in flavors give it an additional lift of freshness and body, has an appetizing dry texture and stops short Williams Selyem 2016 Foss Vineyard Pinot ­focus within its restrained style. —V.B. of full ripeness. —J.G. 94 Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review abv: 13.1% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $60 see page 6. abv: 14.1% Price: $62 Saxon Brown 2014 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Goldeneye 2015 Confluence Vineyard Hillside 93 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Rose petal and 92 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This densely Williams Selyem 2016 Rochioli Riverblock white pepper season the entry aromatics of this packed, superripe wine is a winner for folks who love 94 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). well-made wine, that’s robust in weight and expan- an all-out fruit and oak combination. From aromas For full review see page 6. sive tannin. Exotic fruit tones like rhubarb and like cloves, black cherries and lilac it goes to jammy abv: 14.2% Price: $85 pomegranate wrap around savory elements of black rich berry flavors and a plush mouth-filling texture, tea and forest floor. —V.B. followed by a lingering, baking-spice finish. —J.G. Williams Selyem 2016 Williams Selyem abv: 14.1% Price: $60 abv: 13.9% Price: $84 94 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 6. Sojourn 2016 Ridgetop Vineyard Pinot Noir JCB 2015 N0 11 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). abv: 13.6% Price: $105 93 (Sonoma Coast). From a site near Annapolis 92 For full review see page 8. on the extreme Sonoma Coast, this wine is resplen- abv: 14.5% Price: $65 Black Kite 2016 River Turn Pinot Noir dent in red cherry and raspberry, inviting through 93 (Anderson­ Valley). Long on flavor and com- and through. Robustly built, it offers a wealth of La Crema 2015 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). plexity, this full-bodied wine bursts with black- Asian spice, burnt orange and forest floor, finishing 92 This is a well-structured, subtly flavored cherry, black-tea and redwood-forest aromas, before with a length of power and concentration. —V.B. wine that should improve and become even more flooding the palate with delicious, just-ripe fruit fla- abv: 14.4% Price: $NA complex with a few years aging. It has bold black- vors that come with a nicely gripping texture due to cherry aromas, enticing black-fruit flavors that are fine-grained tannins and medium to full body. —J.G. Talley 2016 Rosemary’s Vineyard Pinot Noir more tangy than rich, and mild oak spices wending abv: 14.6% Price: $60 93 (Arroyo Grande Valley). Intense and ripe through from aroma to finish. Best after 2023. —J.G. aromas of boysenberry jam, violets and dark earth abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Friedeman 2016 Terra de Promissio Pinot show on the nose of this single-vineyard expression. 93 Noir (Sonoma Coast). This wine has a beau- Powerful, juicy flavors of blackberry and cracked Les Belles Collines 2016 Pinot Noir (Sonoma tiful floral entry of rose and lavender, building pepper appear on the palate, which is elegantly 92 Coast). For full review see page 9. slowly on the palate in delicate layers of complexity. wrapped in a clay-like minerality and bolstered by abv: 14.5% Price: $50 The lengthy broadway of fruit is defined in cassis strong acid. —M.K. and crunchy pomegranate, the finish a mix of white abv: 13.8% Price: $75 MacPhail 2016 Mardikian Estate Pinot Noir pepper and black tea. —V.B. 92 (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 9. abv: 13.1% Price: $65 Talley 2016 Stone Corral Vineyard Pinot Noir Cellar Selection. 93 (Edna Valley). Candied Bing cherry, laven- abv: 14.5% Price: $90 Hirsch 2016 West Ridge Estate Pinot Noir der, rose petal and tea leaf are extremely approach- 93 (Fort Ross-Seaview). Gritty in texture and able and delicious smelling on the nose of this bot- MacPhail 2016 Toulouse Vineyard Pinot Noir supremely complex, this estate red is powerful in tling. There is firm tension to the palate, where dark 92 (Anderson Valley). Full bodied and very concentration and acidity. Floral rose and earth ride berry and plum flavors are lifted by juniper, allspice plush in texture, this supersmooth wine starts with along its midpalate of forest floor, black tea and and a pinch of lavender. —M.K. aromas of cooked cherries and plums, moves to tangy pomegranate, finishing with an emphasis on abv: 13.8% Price: $68 richer, sweet-seeming strawberries and red cherries the persistent Asian spice. —V.B. on the palate while it coats the tongue and sides of abv: 12.6% Price: $85 Williams Selyem 2016 Burt Williams’ Morn- the mouth with an appealing, creamy texture. —J.G. 93 ing Dew Ranch Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). abv: 14.6% Price: $55 Longoria 2016 Lovely Rita Pinot Noir (Sta. For full review see page 7. Cellar Selection. 93 Rita Hills). Rick Longoria has been making abv: 13.6% Price: $85 Niner 2016 JR Reserve Pinot Noir (Edna age-worthy Pinot Noir since the 1980s, and this 92 Valley). For full review see page 9. Cellar bottling fits right into that legacy. Aromas of black Williams Selyem 2016 Calegari Vineyard ­Selection. plum, damp forest floor and pine wood lead into a 93 ­Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full abv: 14.5% Price: $65 structurally sound, very dry palate of boysenberry, review see page 7. tarragon, dill and smoke. Drink now–2036. Cellar abv: 13.7% Price: $62 Williams Selyem 2016 Coastlands Vineyard Selection. —M.K. 92 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review abv: 13.5% Price: $35 Williams Selyem 2016 Ferrington Vineyard see page 10. 93 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). For full review abv: 14.1% Price: $75 MacPhail 2016 Wightman House Pinot see page 7. 93 Noir (Anderson Valley). This very focused, abv: 13.7% Price: $65 Williams Selyem 2016 Lewis MacGregor ­medium-bodied wine is substantive and delicious. 92 ­Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River It starts with a quite fruity aroma full of black cher- Black Kite 2016 Redwoods’ Edge Pinot Noir Valley). For full review see page 10. ries and sour cherries, then on the palate it shows 92 (Anderson Valley). This wine has wonderful abv: 14.2% Price: $85 vivid, cherry-like flavors, nicely balanced by nervy ripeness without sweetness, a tangy mouthfeel and acidity and moderate tannins and weaving in hints great structure. It shows bright cherry and apple- Aquinas 2016 Pinot Noir (North Coast). This of black tea and rhubarb. —J.G. skin aromas, fresh and crisp cherry, cranberry and 91 wine is full of unmistakable varietal char- abv: 13.3% Price: $55 rhubarb flavors and medium to full body. —J.G. acter, bursting with black-cherry and pine-forest abv: 14.5% Price: $60 aromas, filling the palate with a ripe-tart tension

WINEMAG.COM | 85

BUYINGGUIDE between black and red fruits, and staying nimble Williams Selyem 2016 Precious Mountain earthy. Exotic waves of citrus, rhubarb and cran- and balanced in terms of texture. —J.G. 91 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full berry provide crunch and tartness that complement abv: 14.5% Price: $19 review see page 13. the forest and black tea. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $95 abv: 14.4% Price: $NA Crū 2017 Clone 113 Solomon Hills Vineyard 91 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). For full Zeka 2015 Pinot Noir (Bennett Valley). This The Calling 2016 Pinot Noir (Russian River review see page 11. 91 wine has high-toned fruit and underlying 90 Valley). For full review see page 16. abv: 13.9% Price: $80 brightness, melding the two complementary sides abv: 14.1% Price: $37 within a context of integrated oak and thick tannin. Crū 2017 Solomon Hills Vineyard Pinot Noir Citrus, rhubarb and pomegranate provide a tartness Works and Days 2016 Pinot Noir (Sonoma 91 (Santa Maria Valley). For full review see page of lingering fruit dipped in light Asian spice. This is 90 Coast). This wine is memorable in its firm 11. the producer’s first vintage. —V.B. grasp of earthy savory forest floor, sage and carda- abv: 13.9% Price: $60 abv: 13.8% Price: $47 mom. The acidity is tart and well integrated as well as delicately built, finishing in a burst of pomegran- Friedeman 2016 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Crū 2017 Wine Club Reserve­ Sarmento Vine- ate and orange peel. —V.B. 91 This combines grapes from several single- 90 yard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). For abv: 14% Price: $NA vineyard sites, including Terra de Promissio and full review see page 14. Campbell Ranch. It excels in its opening notes abv: 14.1% Price: $35 De Loach 2015 Les Parcelles Cachées Estate of rose petal and lavender, with an underbelly of 89 Grown Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). turned earth. Bold black fruit presents as sizably MacPhail 2016 The Flyer Pinot Noir (Sonoma­ This wine opens in floral and spicy aromas before rich on the palate, a richness that turns velvety 90 Coast). For full review see page 15. unleashing a succulent midpalate that’s as substan- smooth and indelible. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 tial in red and blue fruit as it is tannin. A lengthy abv: 14.4% Price: $45 streak of earthy forest floor complements the con- On Point 2016 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). centrated fruit. —V.B. J. Lohr 2017 Falcon’s Perch Pinot Noir (Mon- 90 This blends grapes from the Gap’s Crown abv: 13.5% Price: $90 91 terey County). For full review see page 12. and Wildcat Mountain vineyards, aging the whole in Editors’ Choice. a small percentage of new French oak for 11 months. Freelander 2017 District One Pinot Noir (Cali- abv: 13.5% Price: $17 Heady in spice and baked dark cherry, it offers mod- 89 fornia). This is a well-made wine that’s gen- erate body structure and ripeness with a touch of erous in aromas and flavors. It is a little taut and Leitmotif 2016 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara orange peel and toasted oak. —V.B. appetizing in texture and balanced by good acidity. 91 County). Quite light in the glass, this bottling abv: 14.2% Price: $38 Cinnamon and red-cherry aromas are followed by shows pressed rose petals, dewy thyme, wet forest snappy cherry and raspberry flavors. The wine is floor, wild tarragon and a touch of funk on the nose. Patz & Hall 2016 Moses-Hall Vineyard Pinot medium bodied and lightly tannic. Best Buy. —J.G. The palate’s light pomegranate flavors gain complex- 90 Noir (Carneros). This is a big-boned gener- abv: 13.5% Price: $14 ity from earthy elements of moss, damp mint and ously spiced vineyard-designate with sizable tannin turned loam. It’s an intriguing, refreshing sip. —M.K. weight and textured grit. Toasted oak supports dark Clos LaChance 2017 Erwin Vineyard Pinot abv: 12.9% Price: $32 cherry, mint and pomegranate flavors that are well- 88 Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Bright and integrated and lengthy. —V.B. ripe berry aromas kick of the nose on this bottling, Patz & Hall 2016 Burnside Vineyard Pinot Noir abv: 14.2% Price: $85 which then offers a hint of crushed clove. The palate 91 (Russian River Valley). This is a lovely, earthy is very full and framed by chalky tannins, loaded with vineyard-designate, brimming in thick, viscous and Red Car 2015 Heaven and Earth Pinot Noir ripe berry, baking-spice and dried tarragon flavors. youthful layers of black tea and cardamom. Struc- 90 (Sonoma Coast). Lightly built with a persis- —M.K. tured tannins support a core of velvety baked straw- tent succulence, this wine shines in up-front acidity abv: 14.2% Price: $50 berry and cola. —V.B. and delicately woven flavors of strawberry, cherry abv: 14.2% Price: $85 and orange. The tannins are tight and quiet. —V.B. Crū 2016 Vineyard Montage Pinot Noir abv: 13.4% Price: $75 88 (Santa Lucia Highlands). Red-cherry and Sojourn 2016 Riddle Vineyard Pinot Noir baking-spice aromas make for a likable and easy 91 (Sonoma­ Coast). This site is near the cool, Saxon Brown 2015 Durell Vineyard Hayfield nose on this bottling. The palate offers richer but fog-influenced town of Occidental and it shows 90 Block Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Smoked tart Montmorency cherry flavors along with hints plenty of cool-climate character. Robustly fruity on meat, tobacco and tea make for a robust, edgy expe- of thyme and dried garden herbs. —M.K. entry, it settles into a delicate midpalate of spicy rience in this block-designate from the famous site, abv: 13.8% Price: $25 orange, rhubarb and black tea, finishing with a last- the wine savory, thick and exotic in nature. Red- ing grace. —V.B. currant and cherry notes brighten its mood. —V.B. Kenwood 2015 Pinot Noir (Russian River abv: 14.4% Price: $NA abv: 14.3% Price: $60 88 Valley). Tangy and high in acidity, this is a fresh and funky wine, earthy in dried herb, black tea Three Thieves 2017 Pinot Noir (California). For Saxon Brown 2015 Sangiacomo Roberts and rhubarb. The style is light and bright. —V.B. 91 full review see page 103. Best Buy. 90 Road Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 13.5% Price: $11 Made in an earthy, austere style, this wine is intensely savory and spicy, with high-pitched acid- La Crema 2015 Pinot Noir (Los Carneros). Williams Selyem 2016 Eastside Road Neigh- ity at its core. The fruit follows suit, a mélange of 88 Earthy with tart acidity, this wine is hearty 91 bors Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full cranberry, pomegranate and blood orange, finishing and full bodied, with a depth of concentrated black review see page 13. in a balance of black tea and pepper. —V.B. cherry and pomegranate. It finishes in a dark swath abv: 13.8% Price: $59 abv: 14.1% Price: $60 of dark chocolate and coffee. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Sojourn 2016 Reuling Vineyard Pinot Noir 90 (Sonoma Coast). Big and spicy, this wine is Martellotto 2017 Le Bon Temps Roule Pinot tannic on entry, intensely full bodied and supremely 88 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This is a lighter style

86 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 of Pinot Noir, with earthy aromas of juniper, cola Heron 2017 Pinot Noir (California). A fruity, ered aromas of black cherry, baking spice, star anise and pine needles on the nose. There are a lot of 86 plummy aroma and fresh cherry flavors and crushed slate lead into a roasted palate of black green aspects to the palate as well, such as men- make this medium-bodied wine straightforward plum and chai spices, with acid that carries into the thol, which give nuance to the tart cranberry fruit. and easy to appreciate. It’s rather light and lean but finish. —M.K. —M.K. pleasant to sip. —J.G. abv: 15.5% Price: $150 abv: 13.5% Price: $45 abv: 13% Price: $14 Patrimony 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Mer Soleil 2017 Reserve Pinot Noir (Santa Parker Station 2017 Pinot Noir (Monterey- 97 (Adelaida­ District). For full review see page 88 Lucia Highlands). Cooked berry and cherry 86 San Luis Obispo-Santa Barbara). Smashed 3. aromas meet with slate and turned loam on the nose cranberry, dried herbs and meat, and a touch of rub- abv: 14.7% Price: $275 of this bottling. Dark-berry flavors blend with camp- bery funk show on the nose of this bottling, which fire smoke and more rich earth on the palate. —M.K. combines fruit from Monterey, San Luis Obispo and Spottswoode 2015 Family Estate Grown abv: 14.8% Price: $50 Santa Barbara counties. Cranberry, dried cherry 97 Caber­net Sauvignon (St. Helena). Fresh on and flower petals decorate the palate. —M.K. the palate and floral on the nose in a bouquet of Plummy 2016 Pinot Noir (California). abv: 13.8% Price: $15 rose, lavender and crushed herb, this perennially 88 Medium to full bodied, broad and rich in beautiful, delicate wine benefits from the addition mouthfeel, this wine doesn’t taste exactly like its Spicy Vines 2016 Peter’s Delight Pinot Noir of 7% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot, also name, but shows plenty of other fruits like ripe 86 (Russian River Valley). This is a tannic, from the organically farmed estate. Pencil shav- cherry and berry aromas, pleasant, mouth-coating minty wine full of earthy strawberry flavor and a ings, coffee and a touch of tobacco add to its savory, cherry and strawberry flavors and a rather soft tex- medium-bodied approach to ripeness. The oak is earthy nature, contributing to its overall structure ture. —J.G. well-integrated and supportive. —V.B. and elegance. Enjoy best from 2025 through 2030 if abv: 13.5% Price: $17 abv: 14.2% Price: $55 you’re able to wait. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $225 Reata 2016 Pedregal Vineyard Pinot Noir Z. Alexander Brown 2017 Uncaged Pinot Noir 88 (San Benito County). Earthy aromas of red 86 (Monterey County-Napa County-Sonoma Lail 2016 Blueprint Cabernet Sauvignon cherry and wild strawberry also show a gunmetal County). Warm, spice and vanilla aromas and flavors 96 (Napa Valley). This is a stunningly beautiful streak on the nose of this bottling. It’s full and soft on wrap around the ripe fruit and brown-sugar flavors wine at this price point, age-worthy and complex, it the palate, with red-cherry and turned loam flavors in this obviously oaky and full-bodied wine. It has a will stay with you long after it’s gone. Opening in that are quite extracted. —M.K. rich texture and almost-sweet balance. —J.G. cedar, clove and cinnamon, it follows with a dusting abv: 14.4% Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $18 of cocoa powder and toasted oak, before it offers a lingering thread of mineral in the form of crushed Dark Horse 2016 Pinot Noir (California). For Grayson 2017 Pinot Noir (California). A rock, violet, red and black currant. Structured as it 87 full review see page 103. Best Buy. 85 smoky, earthy character dominates this goes, it finishes soft and silky. This is a wine for the abv: 13.5% Price: $8 medium-bodied wine, while low-intensity black- cellar as well. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. berry flavors and a tangy texture provide a founda- abv: 15.1% Price: $80 Grady Family Vineyards 2016 Estate Grown tion. —J.G. 87 Pinot Noir (Lodi). This full-bodied wine has abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Alpha Omega 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon an aroma like new leather and balsam that leads to 95 (Napa Valley). This wine is pretty, floral and warm maple, brown sugar and stewed plum flavors. Kenwood 2016 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). compact in red fruit, the texture soft and billowy on It’s tasty and enjoyable in an offbeat way. —J.G. 85 This is a funky, earthy wine that’s sizable in the palate. Rich and full bodied, it has additional abv: 14.1% Price: $16 tannin weight and robust oak. The fruit struggles complexity from small amounts of Cabernet Franc, to exist within this context, offering a mix of baked Merlot and Petit Verdot. Integrated beautifully, it J. Wilkes 2017 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria ­Valley). strawberry and cherry. —V.B. shows balance and power in equal measure. —V.B. 87 Ripe strawberry, red-plum skins, carnation abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 14.5% Price: $102 and turned earth make for an engaging nose on this bottling. The palate is taut but also a tad sour, with Lucky Rock Wine Co. 2017 County Cuvée Corison 2015 Kronos Vineyard Cabernet Sau- dried berry and more plum-skin flavors. It is still 84 ­Pinot Noir (California). This is a utilitarian, 95 vignon (St. Helena). This is among wine- quite young, so the tartness may broaden and mel- light-bodied wine. It has earthy, lightly spicy aro- maker Cathy Corison’s finest offerings, made from low with time. —M.K. mas followed by flavors like red cherry with a touch decades-old vines planted on St. George rootstock. abv: 13.9% Price: $30 of raspberry vinegar. —J.G. Cassis, red currant and floral elements make for an abv: 14.4% Price: $20 inviting entry of aromatics that is followed by sub- Kenwood 2015 Olivet Lane Vineyard Pinot stantial structure and classic herbal undertones. 87 Noir (Russian River Valley). This wine has a Brotherhood 2014 Honker Pinot Noir (Cali- A pillowy body of balanced elegance is met by an tannic, oaky entry that persists on the midpalate to 83 fornia). This is a quirky wine that’s drink- earthy, leathery finish of complex beauty. —V.B. reveal full-bodied concentration. Crunchy red-fruit able but past its prime already. It has stewed fruit abv: 13.2% Price: $185 takes on a cherry-cola character that’s lush and flavors, pronounced oak accents and a baked, aged round. —V.B. taste on the finish. —J.G. Stewart 2016 Nomad Beckstoffer Missouri abv: 14.8% Price: $42 abv: 14% Price: $19 95 Hopper Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). The producer’s new Nomad collection Theopolis 2017 Pinot Noir (Yorkville High- includes bottlings from every marquee Beckstoffer 87 lands). This full-bodied but light-in-con- CABERNET SAUVIGNON Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard in the Napa Valley. centration wine has very lean fruit flavors and a This is an herbal, dusty, old-world offering, deep dominant spicy, oaky, vanillin tone in both the aro- Crown Point 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon in grippy tannins and the youthful vigor of firm mas and the flavors. —J.G. 97 (­Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). This ­acidity. Pencil shavings, red currant and a streak of abv: 14.4% Price: $42 winery is focused on setting a new benchmark for cocoa play on the palate with bright abandon. Enjoy what Cabernet Sauvignon from Santa Barbara can best from 2026–2030. Cellar Selection. —V.B. be, and this bottling is its best yet. Beautifully lay- abv: 14.7% Price: $175

WINEMAG.COM | 87

BUYINGGUIDE

Daou 2016 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon son sanguine elements of smoked meat and blue a floral tease of rose round out the fruit-forward 94 (Paso Robles). For full review see page 5. fruit in this broadly structured, well-made wine. Big experience. —V.B. Cellar­ Selection. in flavor, it finishes in a length of toasty oak. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $130 abv: 14.5% Price: $56 abv: 14.2% Price: $80 Bennett Lane 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Falcone 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Coursey Graves 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon 90 (Napa Valley). A juicy midpalate of rasp- 94 Robles). This bottling by industry vet- 91 (Napa Valley). This is a small-production berry and black cherry is met by polished tannin erans John and Helen Falcone always packs in offering from a small producer. It opens in a beauti- and integrated oak in this well-made wine from a Paso Robles’ lushness without breaking the bank. fully floral display of rose and sage, following through soft, approachable vintage. —V.B. Creamy aromas of black-cherry chiffon, lush roses with a substantial weight and breadth of cassis and abv: 15.3% Price: $63 and violets and vanilla-speckled French toast lead black cherry. The oak is rich and rewarding while into a ripe palate of black cherry, cassis, mocha and allowing the wine to remain balanced and elegant. Bennett Lane 2014 Reserve Cabernet Sau­ caramel. Soft but structural tannins and a proper —V.B. 90 vignon (Napa Valley). This is a big bold acidity hold it together. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $85 wine, layered in concentrated flavors of cassis and abv: 14.2% Price: $35 red currant that present as sanguine and woody. Flora Springs 2015 Rennie Reserve Cabernet Gritty, sizable tannins add intensity and boldness to Robert Mondavi 2015 The Reserve To Kalon 91 Sauvignon (St. Helena). A 100% varietal the hugely ripe style of the wine. —V.B. 93 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). wine from a three-acre block on the producer’s abv: 15.6% Price: $105 Perfumed in rose and violet, this reserve-worthy red estate, this is an herbal, woody and earthy red wine. displays deft notes of currant, dark cherry and plum Generous helpings of oak and concentration grasp Chimney Rock 2016 Estate Grown Cabernet along an exotic mineral-laden lineup of crushed bold flavors of black cherry, currant as well as richer 90 Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). Softened rock and cocoa powder. Plush and broadly expansive hits of dark chocolate and coffee. —V.B. with the addition of 25% Merlot, this wine offers in tannin, it persists in a classic, old-world finish of abv: 14.2% Price: $150 a combination of power with grace. Touches of tar, dried herb, sage and clove. Enjoy best 2025–2030. petrol and rocky mineral start this off on the nose. Cellar Selection. —V.B. Martellotto 2016 La Bomba Cabernet Sau- It’s shows robust and tightly grained tannins on the abv: 14.5% Price: $175 91 vignon (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). palate, with a bold shock of blue fruit and cinna- Charred meat, smoked boysenberries, crushed mon. —V.B. Bennett Lane 2015 Reserve Cabernet Sau- gravel and charcoal make for a savory nose on this abv: 14.5% Price: $95 92 vignon (Napa Valley). This wine is juicy, bottling by Greg Martellotto, whose Italian family structured and high toned, with elegant flavors of has made wine for generations. Dried herbs, tangy Corley 2014 Tietjen Vineyard Cabernet Sau- red cherry and cassis. High powered, it has con- cranberries and roasted meats show on the palate, 90 vignon (Rutherford). This wine has a clas- trasting notions of dried herb, clove and black pep- which offers a hefty weight and should age well. sic herbal element of sage, sous-bois and mint, per that play well against the fruit and a gritty oaky —M.K. tucked within soft layers of integrated tannin and texture. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $35 oak. Medium bodied, it shines in rich blue fruit and abv: 14.7% Price: $107 a lasting note of clove. —V.B. Rancho Sisquoc 2016 Flood Family Vineyards abv: 14.2% Price: $80 Dusty Nabor 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Barbara County). 92 Robles). A fresh cherry aroma is wrapped in For full review see page 12. Editors’ Choice. Flora Springs 2015 Wild Boar Vineyard Cab- loads of intriguing spice on the nose of this bottling, abv: 14.5% Price: $28 90 ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This comes including clove, mint and cocoa. A chalky texture from a site in Pope Valley on the eastern edge of the of grainy tannins frames the palate, where plum, Ancient Peaks 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon appellation, where the grapes are grown at 1,200- blackberry, dried ginger and more baking-spice fla- 90 (Santa Margarita Ranch). For full review feet in elevation. Red currant, clove and turned vors ride a persistent acidity. —M.K. see page 13. earth top a layer of grippy reduction and sizable oak, abv: 14.3% Price: $65 abv: 14.1% Price: $22 with secondary elements of tar and leather. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $125 Flora Springs 2015 Out of Sight Vineyard Cab- Anderson Conn Valley 2016 Cabernet Sau- 92 ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). From a hill- 90 vignon (Napa Valley). Softly textured and McClean 2017 Clemence Cabernet Sauvi- side site between Oak Knoll and Coombsville, this is full bodied in richness and ripe concentration, this 90 gnon (Paso Robles). Packaged in one of a sanguine, elegant red densely layered and plush in wine is woody and earthy, with a backbone of black the more impressive labels on the market, this very soft oak. Red currant, clove, cedar and cherry make currant, clove, black pepper and sizable grip. —V.B. young wine is quite ready now, starting with fresh appearances within savory complements of leather abv: 14.9% Price: $58 aromas of blackberry sauce, crushed slate and dried and tobacco. —V.B. herbs. Chalky tannins frame the sip, where ripe red- abv: 14.2% Price: $125 Bennett Lane 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon fruit flavors lead into herbs, smoked meat and cocoa. 90 (Napa Valley). Meaty, big-boned and Best Buy. —M.K. Vina Robles 2016 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon steeped in both woody oak and tannin, this is a abv: 14.4% Price: $15 92 (Paso Robles). This bottling exhibits the brawny full-bodied wine with ample concentration. richness that’s made Paso Robles famous, yet at a The midpalate takes on a succulence of juicy black Niner 2015 HH Reserve Estate Grown Cab- price point that’s great for frequent indulgence. Inky currant and black cherry, finishing with a leathery 90 ernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). For full in the glass, the bottling’s lush nose offers concen- accent. —V.B. review see page 15. trated black cherry, caramel, cocoa and coffee. It’s abv: 14.5% Price: $65 abv: 14.5% Price: $65 soft and smooth on the palate, where the black- cherry compote flavors are lifted by star anise and Bennett Lane 2015 Lynch Family Vineyard Robert Hall 2015 Cavern Select Cabernet clove. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Calistoga). Grippy 90 Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Dark aromas abv: 14.5% Price: $26 black cherry and blackberry burst out of the entry of blackberry, baked earth, licorice and chaparral of this full-bodied, richly concentrated wine, its scrub show on the nose of this rich and extracted Corley 2014 Yewell Vineyard Cabernet Sauvi- palate lush, smooth and big-boned. Dried herb and bottling. The palate is also lush and juicy with 91 gnon (St. Helena). Cinnamon and clove sea-

88 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 black-currant and caramel flavors, yet held in check framing flavors of oregano, peppercorn and black- Precision Wine 2015 Spotlight Cabernet by chalky tannins. —M.K. berry. —M.K. 85 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Perfumed oak is abv: 15% Price: $54 abv: 14.2% Price: $45 smoky and a tad rough around the edges, the wine offering a fruity and lush midpalate that takes on a Seven Angels 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Pianetta 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mon- harsh green component as it finishes soft and simple. 90 (Central Coast). Candied black-raspberry 88 terey). Earthy, somewhat rustic aromas of —V.B. aromas meet with elegant mace and star anise spice dried herbs and black cherry make for nicely layered abv: 14.2% Price: $30 on the nose of this bottling. There’s a backbone of nose. The palate offers gravelly, earthy, loamy fla- black-plum jelly and purple flowers to the sip, which vors that complement the roasted strawberry core. Samuel Charles 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon is layered throughout in Christmas spices. —M.K. —M.K. 85 (North Coast). This medium-bodied wine is abv: 14.3% Price: $38 abv: 13.8% Price: $40 very fruity in flavor and soft and easy in texture. It has low acidity, very little noticeable tannin and a Clos LaChance 2015 Whitestone Vineyard Vigilance 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red rather thick, syrupy mouthfeel. —J.G. 89 Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Coast). Deep 88 Hills). This ripe and expressive wine exudes abv: 14.2% Price: $30 fruity aromas of blackberry and black-plum jam an earthy, black-fig aroma, then rich and concen- meet with wood spice, roasted meat and sarsapa- trated black-cherry and dried date flavors are Ironstone 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). rilla on the nose of this single-vineyard expression, accented by spicy, wet earth and oak notes and a 84 This is a fruity, soft-textured and rounded which is still young and may grow more interesting mouthfeel shaped by velvety tannins. —J.G. wine that has raspberry and cherry-extract flavors, with patience. The tannins rise up right away on the abv: 13.9% Price: $23 very low tannin content and a syrupy, almost-sweet palate, offered roasted wood and berry flavors with character. —J.G. a coffee, tea and tobacco finish. —M.K. Castle Rock 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso abv: 13.5% Price: $14 abv: 13.9% Price: $50 87 Robles). There’s a touch of to the glass of this twist-top bottling, which indicates a freshness Leaping Horse 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Lobo 2015 Wulff Vineyard Cabernet Sau­ that shows in the snappy berry aromas on the nose. 84 (California). This lightly sweet and syrupy 89 vignon (Atlas Peak). This wine is effusively The palate offers herbal touches of tobacco against wine smells like waffles and tastes like blueberries. aromatic in violet and wild raspberry, following tangy dark-red fruits. The body is somewhat thin It is medium bodied, soft in texture and very low in through on the palate with similar flavors. Compact but the overall experience is pleasurable. —M.K. tannin. —J.G. in medium-bodied ripeness and tannin, it finishes abv: 13.5% Price: $13 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 with secondary characteristics of black pepper and leather. —V.B. Gen5 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). For abv: 14.4% Price: $80 87 full review see page 103. Best Buy. CABERNET FRANC abv: 13.9% Price: $11 McClain Cellars 2016 Sacred Love Reserve Mt. Brave 2015 Cabernet Franc (Mount 89 Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Ynez Valley). Olelo 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso ­Robles). 94 Veeder).­ This is 100% varietal and remark- Fairly powerful aromas of black cherry and raisin 87 Ripe cranberry sorbet, orange peel and a ably impressive, true to its grape in earthy aromas of meet with fudge and caramel on the nose of this ripe pinch of tarragon show on the nose of this bottling. violet and sage. The mountainous appellation con- bottling. It’s thick and lavish with chalky tannins The palate is a bit tangy with strawberry-balsamic tributes girth and breadth, as well as densely layered on the palate, with rich blackberry jam and black- flavors and a pinch of herbs. —M.K. texture and grip. Around the fullness are beautiful pepper flavors. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $15 flavors of chocolate, graham cracker and blueberry. abv: 14.8% Price: $69 This will cellar well; enjoy best 2025–2030. Cellar Ravel & Stitch 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Selection. —V.B. Black Ridge 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa­ 87 (Central Coast). Concentrated black-currant abv: 15% Price: $80 88 Cruz Mountains). Candied black cherry aromas lead into charred oak and wood-ash aromas makes for a very expressive, almost sweet nose on on the nose of this bottling, which also includes Daou 2016 Cabernet Franc (Adelaida District). this bottling. The palate blossoms with purple flow- 12% Petite Sirah, 4% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot and 93 Very dark in the glass, this bottling shows ers of lilac and jasmine, yet it is somewhat thin in 3% Malbec. The palate is a bit tart and sour with tightly wound blackberry fruit, pepper and dark body. —M.K. black-plum skin flavors at first, but then a black- chocolate on the nose. It’s a very rich expression of abv: 13.5% Price: $52 cherry richness shines through alongside singed Cabernet Franc, with lush dark fruit, although there tobacco. —M.K. is cracked pepper and a hint of herbs on the taut Fernwood 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa abv: 14.2% Price: $25 palate that adhere to the variety’s roots. —M.K. 88 Cruz Mountains). This bottling, aged in abv: 14.2% Price: $95 100% American oak, offers earthy aromas of for- emBRAZEN 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali- est floor, concentrated cassis and a balsamic berry 86 fornia). This is a relatively light, smooth Luna Hart 2016 Cabernet Franc (Los ­Olivos sauce on the nose. Chunky sticky tannins deliver and honest version of a typically tannic varietal. 92 District). This is Cabernet Franc done in a flavors of dark chocolate and dried berries, which It offers vivid black-cherry and blackberry flavors, fresh and zesty style, starting with aromas of rasp- turn tangy toward the finish. —M.K. no assertive oakiness, a slightly gripping mouthfeel berry, cranberry, dewy herbs and green pepper- abv: 13.9% Price: $48 and medium body. —J.G. corns. The palate is loaded with cracked pepper, abv: 13.5% Price: $16 juniper and mossy herbs, yet the ripe red apples and Niner 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso dried berry flavors complete the refreshing picture. 88 Robles).­ This bottling, which also includes Sebastiani 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (North Serve a bit chilled. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. 9% Carmenère, 4% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet 86 Coast). Dry and full-bodied, this wine has abv: 14.5% Price: $34 Franc, hews toward an older California style of Cab, extra-ripe fruit aromas that verge on balsamic, with dried oregano and cedar overriding black-plum concentrated cherry and cranberry flavors and firm Grassini 2014 Cabernet Franc (Happy Canyon and blackberry aromas on the nose. The palate is tannins that tighten the texture. —J.G. 91 of Santa Barbara). Roasted black cherries, also very herbal and rather light, with tight tannins abv: NA Price: $18 toasted wood, a pinch of pepper and the slightest hint of green herbs show on the nose of this bot- tling. The entry to the palate is very smooth with

WINEMAG.COM | 89

BUYINGGUIDE dark fruits, but there’s also a hint of Cab Franc’s Pride Mountain 2015 Vintner Select Merlot backbone is built on a foundation of fresh acidity herbal side, with a bit of mint. The finish is oak 90 (Sonoma County). This is 100% varietal and dried herb. —V.B. dominant. —M.K. and made from the best vineyard blocks. Brawny abv: 13.9% Price: $25 abv: 15.5% Price: $95 and bright, it has substantial weight and tannin, accented in red and black cherry, plum, coconut and Olelo 2017 Merlot (Paso Robles). Underripe Jax 2016 3 Barrels Cabernet Franc (Calis- leather. Seasonings of dried herb linger on the long 85 berries, red-plum skins and wood spice 90 toga). For full review see page 14. finish. —V.B. show on the nose of this bottling. The palate is tart abv: 14.9% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $85 and framed by squeaky tannins. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $15 Chuparosa 2016 Cabernet Franc (Ramona Thirty-Seven 2015 Reserve Merlot (Sonoma 88 Valley). Tart red fruits and tangy herbs 90 County). This is a tiny production, reserve- Educated Guess 2016 Educated Guess Merlot make for a familiar and varietally correct lead into tier wine at a fair price, high toned in red plum and 84 (Napa County). Chalky bulky tannins round this bottling, which also shows a funky Old World savory black olive. Integrated, it offers a sturdy out a bold big-flavored hit of smoky oak and green touch as well. The red fruit and dried herbs also pop foundation of toasted oak and tannin midway herb in this red, blended with 10% Cabernet Sauvi- on the palate, yet so does that sour funk. —M.K. through on the palate before finishing bright.Edi - gnon and 6% Petite Sirah. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $32 tors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 14.7% Price: $46 Longwood 2016 Family Reserve Cabernet Muscardini 2015 Sangiacomo Vineyards Mer- 87 Franc (Napa Valley). This wine is woody and Saddleback 2015 Merlot (Oakville). Salty 83 lot (Sonoma Valley). Tart tangy acidity veers herbal on the nose, thick and grippy on the palate, 89 briny oak meets big concentrated flavors of into a disjointed quality that’s sour on the palate in a study in black fruit intensity and sizable tannin. black currant, black cherry and leather in this bold this hearty wine that veers on overripe. Bulky oak —V.B. brawny red. It is blended with 9% Cabernet Sau- masks flavors of cherry, plum and dried herb. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $60 vignon, which adds to its tannic power and spicy abv: 15.5% Price: $60 length. —V.B. Kalaris 2016 Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley). abv: 14.5% Price: $54 85 This has a dull nose and disjointed acidity, MALBEC offering leathery brawn and a strong waft of laven- Broken Earth 2016 Limited Release Merlot der without complexity. —V.B. 88 (Paso Robles). This is a deep and dark take Gratus 2015 Estate Grown Malbec (Napa abv: 14.5% Price: $69 on Merlot, with aromas of fudge, black cherry, wet 94 Valley).­ From an estate site in Pope Val- gravel and cigar box. The palate offers roasted wood ley that rises to an elevation of 1,000-feet, this Ironstone 2016 Cabernet Franc (Lodi). This and dark prune-like fruits, but impresses mostly impresses in high-toned raspberry and cassis fruiti- 84 extremely smoky oaky wine is full bodied with its weight and structure. —M.K. ness, accompanied by an aromatic note of violet. Well but not too tannic and has a touch of sweetness in abv: 15.5% Price: $29 structured and full bodied, it has secondary charac- the flavors. Charred wood and maple-syrup aromas teristics of cedar and dried herb, the oak supportive lead to maraschino cherry flavors and more smoky Sculpterra 2016 Estate Merlot (Paso Robles).­ and not in the way. This will do well in the cellar; oaky accents on the palate. —J.G. 88 The nose of this estate bottling is quite ­enjoy best from 2025–2030. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $14 showy, offering Bing cherry, pungent rose buds and abv: 14.8% Price: $55 a hint of vanilla. It’s fairly light on the palate but with pleasing red-plum and cranberry flavors that Rancho Sisquoc 2016 Flood Family Vineyards MERLOT are easy to quaff. —M.K. 91 Malbec (Santa Barbara County). For full abv: 13.2% Price: $38 review see page 12. Tamber Bey 2015 Merlot (Yountville). Black abv: 14.9% Price: $32 92 olive tapenade dominates the flavor profile Sextant 2016 Estate Merlot (Paso Robles). of this well-made 100% varietal wine, concentrated 88 Supple red fruit and candied berries meet Toybox Wine Cellars 2015 Cadden Family­ in black-licorice and black-cherry flavors. With a with a touch of turned loam on the nose of this bot- 90 Vineyard Malbec (Napa Valley). Thick red- spicy thread of nutmeg throughout, it has tremen- tling. The palate combines cocoa, red cherry and a and black-cherry fruit punctures more savory earthy dous grip. This is one worth setting aside; enjoy best touch of earthy funk with a powerful acidity. —M.K. elements of dried herb and currant in this tart tangy from 2020–2025. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $35 wine. A strong core of tannin supports the ripeness abv: 15.5% Price: $75 with violet aromatics leading the way. —V.B. Bell 2015 Merlot (Yountville). Dusty tobacco abv: 14.2% Price: $65 Darioush 2014 Signature Merlot (Napa 87 and dark chocolate are buoyed by big expan- 90 Valley). This is made from estate-grown sive tannins in this full-bodied, bulky and brawny Martellotto 2017 My Way Malbec (Happy Mount Veeder grapes, as well as Oak Knoll fruit. wine. Smoky oak and dried herb with cedar round 86 Canyon of Santa Barbara). Coffee grinds, Sanguine in black olive, it has flavors of black cur- out the profile. —V.B. wet soils and dark fruits show on the nose of this rant, eucalyptus and bold, brawny oak. Grippy and abv: 14.7% Price: $65 bottling. The palate is slightly sour with berry and gritty in texture, it offers integrated tannin and forest-floor moss flavors. —M.K. ­substantial ripeness. —V.B. K Squared Cellars 2016 Merlot (Russian River abv: 14% Price: $30 abv: 14.8% Price: $58 87 Valley). Smoky in oak, this soft, round and medium-bodied red is a mix of blackberry and Houdini 2016 Merlot (Napa Valley). This is a black cherry, with tart acidity lurking in the back- SYRAH 90 well-made value-driven red, tasting of blue- ground. Smooth integrated tannins support without berry cobbler, cinnamon and nutmeg, with a linger- ­distraction. —V.B. Bien Nacido Estate 2015 The XO Reserve ing touch of meat and smoke. Brawny and full bodied abv: 14.2% Price: $32 95 Syrah (Santa Maria Valley). For full review it benefits from bright underlying acidity. —V.B. see page 4. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $24 Decoy 2016 Merlot (Sonoma County). This abv: 13% Price: $100 86 affordable red is soft and round, offering full flavors of dark chocolate, vanilla and plum. The

90 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 Jaffurs 2015 Upslope Syrah (Santa Barbara Epiphany 2016 Hampton Vineyard Syrah Seven Angels 2015 Syrah (Paso Robles). 94 County). Bright and snappy violet aromas 92 (Santa Barbara County). Very ripe black- 90 Elegantly woven aromas of purple flowers, lead into black peppers and charred blackberry on berry and black-plum aromas are lifted by com- blackberry syrup and charred meats make for a rich the elegant nose of this bottling, created from the pacted violets on the nose of this bottling by the Fess aromatic entry to this bottling. The flavors are more winery’s best-barrels released each vintage. The Parker family. It lands on the palate with full flavors reserved, showing dark fruit and baking spice, all palate is taut and grippy with firm tannins and of blackberry reduction sauce, charred meat and wrapped in strong acidity with potential to be even perfectly primed acid, which will carry the dried pepper spice, with acidity that rolls into the finish. more delicious. —M.K. herb and pepper flavors into the deep future. Drink —M.K. abv: 16% Price: $36 2020–2030. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $37 abv: 14.5% Price: $75 Topa Mountain Winery 2015 Bien Nacido Foxen 2016 Tinaquaic Vineyard Syrah (Santa 90 Vineyard Reserve Syrah (Santa Maria Valley).­ Alta Colina 2015 Old 900 Syrah (Adelaida 92 Maria Valley). Freshly smashed violets com- Tangy black-plum aromas meet with savory meats, 93 District). Very dark in the glass and a tad bine with hints of tar, black pepper and elderberry lilac and burnt brown sugar on the nose of this wound up even three years in, this bottling gra- on the nose of this bottling. There is strong acid on reserve bottling. It’s soft and chalky on the full and ciously opens into aromas of lamb roast, charcoal the palate delivering flavors of pepper, roasted meat ripe palate with a thick layer of blackberry foam as and cassis. It has commanding presence on the and tangy dark fruits, proving quite fresh and still a well as a hint of lighter flowers toward the finish. palate, with a rich heavy luxurious mouthfeel that tad young. —M.K. —M.K. delivers flavors of lavender, rosemary, espresso and abv: 14.4% Price: $50 abv: 13.9% Price: $55 more cassis. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $58 Foxen 2016 Williamson-Doré Vineyard Syrah Westerly 2014 Cote Blonde Syrah (Santa 92 (Los Olivos District). For full review see page 90 Ynez Valley). Blackberry-sorbet, teriyaki, Bolt To Wines 2016 Sidekick By Karin Langer 8. candied-purple-flower and dark-chocolate-syrup 93 Syrah (Ballard Canyon). Rich and roasty on abv: 14.1% Price: $48 aromas show on the nose of this bottling, which is the nose, this bottling offers charred blackberry, starting to show a touch of age already. Framed by peppercorns, tar, coffee and grape seed on the nose. Jaffurs 2015 Bien Nacido Vineyard Syrah chalky tannins, the palate combines tangy black- The palate is rounded and smoky as well, with 92 (Santa Barbara County). Tar, charred beef, plum fruit with roasted coffee, caramel and peppery grilled black-plum and fig flavors lifted by pepper purple flowers, crushed slate and elderberry jam spice. —M.K. dust and well integrate purple flowers. This feels make an attention-grabbing aromatic entry to the abv: 15.7% Price: $30 lavish but high-toned due strong acid. —M.K. nose of this bottling. The palate is quite tart and abv: 15.6% Price: $40 taut, with peppery spice, rustic elderberry and new Cloak & Dagger 2016 The Conspirator leather flavors. —M.K. 89 Reserve Syrah (Paso Robles). Quite dark in Dragonette 2014 MJM Syrah (Santa Ynez abv: 14.8% Price: $50 the glass, this bottling smells of concentrated black 93 Valley).­ Very savory on the nose, this bot- plum, black currant and violet on the nose. The tling offers charred meat, burned soy and tangy Epiphany 2016 Bien Nacido Vineyard Syrah palate shows Concord grape sauce on roasted beef black plums on the umami-driven nose. The pal- 91 (Santa Maria Valley). The savory oak tones flavors, along with licorice and tarragon, and grows ate shows a more floral side, with violets, lilacs and are prominent on the nose of this bottling, which very tangy by the finish. —M.K. jasmine before leading back toward roasted beef also shows cassis and peppercorn on the lav- abv: 15.1% Price: $49 ­aromas. It is a very complex wine. —M.K. ish nose. Ripe flavors of blackberry jam are cut by abv: 14.9% Price: $75 smoke, bacon fat and more cracked pepper on the Outward 2016 Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). palate. —M.K. 89 Dark and tangy blackberry and black-plum- Epiphany 2016 Colson Canyon Vineyard abv: 14.9% Price: $49 fruit aromas meet with a touch of charred meat on 93 Syrah (Santa Barbara County). For full the nose of this bottling. The palate is well struc- review see page 7. Foxen 2016 Tinaquaic Vineyard Old Vines Dry tured, carrying flavors of elderberry, violet and abv: 14.9% Price: $40 91 Farmed Syrah (Santa Maria Valley). Intriguing roasted cocoa on the edges. —M.K. things happen on dry-farmed, old vine vineyards, abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Topa Mountain Winery 2015 John Sebastiano and this bottling shows a wide-ranging nose of aro- 93 Vineyard Syrah (Santa Barbara County). mas, from boysenberry and sour violets to smoke, Outward 2016 John Sebastiano Vineyard Fresh and almost effervescent on the nose with roasted game and singed rosemary. The palate offers 89 Syrah (Sta. Rita Hills). Black-raspberry sor- lilacs and cracked rainbow peppercorns, this bot- sour berry and cedar flavors, proving rather tight at bet, exotic cardamom and green peppercorns make tling also offers aromas of ripe alpine strawberry. this stage of life. —M.K. an intriguing entry into this bottling from a new That zesty red-fruit component shines on the palate abv: 13.9% Price: $54 label run by outdoor-loving climbers. The palate is as well alongside white pepper, dried purple flower pretty mellow and airy, offering hints of violet, lilac, and a hint of elderflower flavors. —M.K. Pianetta 2016 Syrah (Monterey). Blackberry white pepper and blackberry. —M.K. abv: 13.7% Price: $55 91 paste, licorice, lavender dust and roasted abv: 13.5% Price: $45 meat aromas show on the nose of this bottling from Beckmen 2016 Purisima Mountain Vineyard the warm reaches of southern Monterey County. Santa Barbara Winery 2015 Syrah (Santa 92 Syrah (Ballard Canyon). Lovely aromas of Stewed black-fruit flavors meet with hints of wild 89 Ynez Valley). Black-cherry and ­blackberry candied boysenberry, dark red cherry, crushed lav- thyme and white pepper on the palate, which is aromas are framed by oak tones and lifted by ender, cracked white pepper and dried sage sticks framed by stiff tannins. —M.K. crushed flowers on the nose of this bottling, which show on the nose of this bottling from a vineyard abv: 13.8% Price: $36 evolves quite quickly as it sits in the glass. Tangy located high above the Ballard Canyon appellation. black-plum-skin flavors are tart and tightly wound There is a great freshness on the palate, where fla- Rancho Sisquoc 2016 Flood Family Vineyards on the palate, graced with a pinch of pepper on the vors of lavender and violet meet with peppery spice, 91 Syrah (Santa Barbara County). For full review finish. —M.K. berry fruit and a tarry edge. —M.K. see page 13. abv: 14.7% Price: $19 abv: 15% Price: $32 abv: 14.4% Price: $25 Ferguson Crest 2015 Syrah (Santa Ynez 88 Valley).­ Quite tarry on the nose, this bottling

WINEMAG.COM | 91

BUYINGGUIDE offers aromas of sweet black cherry, charcoal and vio- that allows the herbaceous side to shine, from pot- where macerated strawberry flavors feel quite fresh lets. There is a lot of crushed peppercorn and Indian pourri to tea leaves. This is a great food wine. —M.K. and young. It goes down easy. Best Buy. —M.K. spice on the palate, which gives depth to the very rich abv: 14.5% Price: $68 abv: 14.3% Price: $15 and extracted Concord grape flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $25 Kokomo 2016 Grenache (Dry Creek Valley). Crū 2016 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). Roasted 90 Fruity and robust, this big-boned, ripe 88 wood, light red fruit and leather aromas varietal wine is softly layered in baked strawberry, show on the nose of this bottling. Leathery tannins GRENACHE vanilla and cola. The oak is supportive and smoky. frame the sip, where the dark red fruit meets with —V.B. smoky flavors. —M.K. Thirty-Seven 2015 Grenache (Sonoma abv: 15.5% Price: $38 abv: 14.9% Price: $30 94 Coast). For full review see page 6. Editors’ Choice. Seven Angels 2015 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). abv: 14.7% Price: $26 PETITE SIRAH 87 Caramel, chocolate and violet paste make for a very ripe aroma set on the nose of this bottling. It’s Benovia 2015 Grenache (Sonoma Mountain). Pianetta 2016 Petite Sirah (Paso Robles thick on the palate, with heavy blackberry and fudge 92 This is a classic version of the variety, the 92 Estrella District). Opaque in the glass, this flavors, framed by firm tannins. —M.K. grapes grown at the Four Brothers Vineyard (wine- bottling from a district in east Paso Robles shows abv: 16.4% Price: $29 maker Mike Sullivan is among the brothers). Smoky espresso, tar, roast beef and pepper on the complex tar, oak and tannin grip a softly layered, structured nose. There’s an herbal quality to the sip as well as a Rockin’ R Winery 2013 Brown Eyed Girl mingling of lavender, white pepper, strawberry and violet note, set against elderberry fruit and held up 86 ­Zinfandel (Paso Robles). Extracted aromas leather. —V.B. by loads of acid and tannin. —M.K. of blackberries are both tangy and ripe on the nose abv: 14.1% Price: $42 abv: 14.5% Price: $38 of this bottling. There is a balsamic edge to the pal- ate, where tart red fruits dominate. —M.K. Bolt To Wines 2016 Sidekick by Karin Langer Robert Hall 2015 Cavern Select Petite Sirah abv: 13.8% Price: $32 92 Grenache (Ballard Canyon). Cola and Dr. 92 (Paso Robles). For full review see page 9. Pepper aromas meet with dark plum and black cherry­ abv: 15% Price: $36 on the dynamic nose of this bottling. The intense Dr. RED BLENDS Pepper flavors also show on the palate, where tense Seven Angels 2014 Petite Sirah (Paso tannins also deliver floral flavors of lilac and rose­ 87 Robles).­ Petite Sirah isn’t known for aging Crown Point 2015 Estate Selection (Happy water. It’s quite an intriguing and full sip. —M.K. well, and this one is already starting to show a little 97 Canyon of Santa Barbara). For full review abv: 15.1% Price: $40 why, with lots of prune, raisin and coffee-liqueur see page 3. elements on the nose. The acid pops and tannins abv: 15.5% Price: $150 Saarloos & Sons 2015 Broer Windmill Ranch firm up on the palate, which is lavish with cooked 92 Grenache (Ballard Canyon). Fairly light in blackberry fruit. —M.K. Joseph Phelps 2015 Insignia Estate Grown the glass, this single-vineyard expression offers aro- abv: 14.9% Price: $34 97 Red Wine (Napa Valley). For full review see mas of candied cherry, caramel and hickory smoke page 3. Cellar Selection. on the nose. It’s light in body but with immense abv: 14.5% Price: $275 amounts of tannic tension, showing flavors of ZINFANDEL smoked cherry, savory roasted pork and cranberry Daou 2015 Mayote (Adelaida District). For sauce on the palate. —M.K. Robert Hall 2016 Cavern Select­ Dusi Vineyard 96 full review see page 4. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $38 92 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). For full review see abv: 14.9% Price: $100 page 9. Editors’ Choice. Sheldon 2017 Luc’s Vineyard Grenache abv: 15% Price: $42 Daou 2015 Soul of a Lion (Adelaida District). 92 (Fountaingrove District). This is the first 96 For full review see page 4. vintage of this wine, and it was made in minuscule Cloak & Dagger 2016 The Defector Reserve abv: 14.7% Price: $125 amounts. It opens awash in fresh strawberry, white 90 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). Light aromas of pepper, citrus and flowers, aromatically inviting cranberry, candied strawberry and dried herbs Alpha Omega 2015 Proprietary Red (Napa and fruity. A touch of grit and oak provides back- make for a pleasant and interesting nose on this 95 Valley). This blends 71% Cabernet Sauvi- bone amidst a textured, balanced palate of great bottling. The palate combines cinnamon and sumac gnon with 13% Cabernet Franc, 11% Petit Verdot beauty. —V.B. with red plums and more strawberries, going and 5% Merlot. Together, they present a reduced abv: 13.5% Price: $38 down much with much less drama than the dark grip of tar, black cherry, blackberry and substantial ­espionage-themed label implies. —M.K. power within a graceful frame of supportive acid- Lampyridae 2017 Grenache (Mount Veeder). abv: 15.4% Price: $49 ity and integrated oak. Let this one lie; enjoy best 91 Tightly wound in its youth, this wine is rich 2025–2030. Cellar Selection. —V.B. and full bodied, with a baked quality to the wild Kennedy Family 2014 Vite Centanni Vine- abv: 14.5% Price: $102 strawberry and black cherry. Meaty and syrupy in 90 yard Estate Grown Zinfandel (Dry Creek thickness, it is layered and voluptuous, with finish- Valley). This is a brawny, lushly made wine, rich Foxen 2016 Cuvée Jeanne Marie Williamson- ing touches of meat and white pepper. —V.B. in dark cherry and blackberry fruit. Lengthy and 93 Dore Vineyard (Los Olivos District). Intense abv: 14.8% Price: $50 structured in nature, it takes on broader notes of aromas of candied boysenberry, black raspberry and milk chocolate, vanilla and nutmeg as it evolves on a brisk purple flower and rose-petal florailty show Saarloos & Sons 2014 O.G. Windmill Ranch the finish. —V.B. on the nose of this blend of 69% Grenache, 23% 91 Grenache (Ballard Canyon). This carbonically abv: 14.6% Price: $30 Mourvèdre and 8% Syrah. The palate is redolent fermented bottling shows plenty of herbal kick to with tea-leaf and cherry-cola flavors that tighten the nose (from sagebrush to wild thyme), which is McClean 2015 Simone Zinfandel (Paso focus as the chalky tannins steadily emerge. —M.K. set against the light, tart red-fruit aromas. The pal- 90 Robles). Ripe and candied strawberry aro- abv: 13.8% Price: $48 ate is framed by a cranberry and cherry backdrop mas meet with nutmeg on the delicious nose of this bottling. There is a strong acidic tang to the palate,

92 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 Le P’tit Paysan 2016 Le P’tit Pape (Central Cabernet Sauvignon grapes grown on mountains, lifted by wood spice and strong toasted cedar aro- 93 Coast). Ian Brand’s flagship bottling just hillsides and ridges of Alexander Valley and Knights mas on the nose of this blend of 56% Syrah and keeps getting better, yet stays reasonably priced. Valley. The tannins grip as smoky oak gives it addi- 44% Cabernet Sauvignon. Roasted aromas of coffee Light in the glass, this blend of 65% Grenache, tional weight and power around huge layers of pep- and charred meat give savory depth to the rounder 26% Syrah, 7% Mourvèdre and 2% Counoise offers pery clove and black currant. —V.B. berry fruit on the palate. —M.K. lovely aromas of strawberry, red plum, white pepper, abv: 14.5% Price: $125 abv: 14.8% Price: $40 wild tomato and forest floor. It’s taut in texture on the sip, holding cranberry and strawberry flavors in B Cellars 2016 Blend 25 Cabernet Sauvignon- Gratus 2015 Estate Grown Red (Napa check, as dried sagebrush carries through the finish. 91 Syrah (Napa County-Sonoma County). Made 90 Valley).­ This combines 80% Cabernet Sau- Editors’ Choice. —M.K. from 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Syrah, vignon with 15% Malbec and 5% Petite Sirah, and abv: 13.17% Price: $22 the fruit grown predominantly in Napa County, this the resulting wine is juicy in red currant and cherry. wine is burly in cedar, herb, black currant and cas- Huge tannins contrast against bright underlying Zaca Mesa 2016 Inceptive Estate Vineyard sis. The tannin structure impresses in its weight and acidity for a satisfying, full-bodied experience in 93 Red Wine (Santa Ynez Valley). For full breadth, able to support the full-bodied concentra- rich ripe fruit. —V.B. review see page 8. tion and ripeness. It finishes with grace. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $75 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 14.9% Price: $80 Martellotto 2017 Rosso di Sera (Happy Can- Alta Colina 2015 Estate G-S-M (Adelaida Big Basin 2015 Odeon Cabernet Sauvignon- 90 yon of Santa Barbara). Ripe and ready aro- 92 District). There’s considerable heft, weight 91 Syrah (Central Coast-Santa Cruz County- mas of black cherry, wood spice and clove are intense and heady-ness to this vintage from Alta Colina, Monterey County). Soothing and elegant aromas on this blend of 40% Malbec, 35% Cabernet Sauvi- and it requires patience to fully explore. This blend of blackberry meet with cedar, dill and oregano on gnon and 25% Cabernet Franc. The palate is rounded of 52% Grenache, 41% Syrah and 7% Mourvèdre the nose of this blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon with ripe dark-fruit and baking-spice flavors, framed offers soft aromas of blackberry, black plum and from Santa Cruz County and 48% Syrah (plus 1% by mouth-coating soft tannins. —M.K. crushed slate on the focused nose. The palate is Viognier) from Monterey County. Woody flavors are abv: 14% Price: $28 full with black-plum and caramel touches, wrapped woven throughout the dense blackberry and pep- in tight, young tannins. Drink now through 2030. pery spice of the palate. —M.K. Now Presenting... 2016 Red (Paso Robles). Cellar­ Selection. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 90 Aromas of red currant paste, wood spice abv: 14.6% Price: $50 and crushed red flowers show on the nose of this Martellotto 2016 Il Capoccia Riserva (Happy reliable value wine. It’s full and lovely on the palate Cloak & Dagger 2016 Deep State (Paso 91 Canyon of Santa Barbara). Deep blackberry with rich yet tart red cherries and a hint of lavender 92 Robles).­ Wild sagebrush herbs and forest aromas meet with new leather and elegant rose- oil. Best Buy. —M.K. wood meet with juicy cranberries and pencil shav- petal scents on the nose of this blend from one of abv: 14.8% Price: $15 ings on the nose of this blend of 44% Cabernet Franc, the warmer regions in Santa Barbara. Rich and ripe 43% Merlot and 13% Petit Verdot. It’s both juicy and flavors of candied cherries and berries are wrapped Rancho Sisquoc 2016 Tre Vini Flood Fam- tart with berry flavors on the well-structured palate, in a woody caramel-laced coating. —M.K. 90 ily Vineyards Sangiovese-Syrah-Cabernet but the compelling complexity comes from dill, mar- abv: 14.3% Price: $60 ­Sauvignon (Santa Barbara­ County). For full review joram, licorice and tarragon spices. —M.K. see page 15. abv: 13.9% Price: $48 Paraduxx 2015 Cork Tree Vineyard (Napa abv: 14.5% Price: $22 91 Valley).­ Made from 50% Malbec blended Justin 2015 Savant (Paso Robles). For full with 36% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Merlot, Cloak & Dagger 2016 The Assassin Cabernet 92 review see page 8. this red is broad in tannin and spicy oak, with 89 Sauvignon-Syrah (Paso Robles). Candied abv: 15% Price: $50 plenty of structure and concentration. The fruit boysenberry and jammy red-plum aromas show on leans into bold flavors of strawberry and blueberry, the nose of this blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon Longoria 2016 Evidence (Santa Barbara the finish bright and lengthy. —V.B. and 30% Syrah. The palate is very drinkable and 92 County). Intense and dark berry fruit meet abv: 14.1% Price: $82 fresh with bright and snappy black raspberry fla- with black pepper, roasted beef and firm oak spice on vors, a twinge of herbs and a decent tannic edge. the nose of this blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and B Cellars 2016 Blend 26 Cabernet Sauvi- —M.K. Cabernet Sauvignon. Candied blackberry flavors and 90 gnon-Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley). This is abv: 13.8% Price: $65 wood spice are held together by firm, elegant tannins. a substantial blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon and Drink 2020–2031. Cellar Selection. —M.K. 32% Cabernet Franc. Peppery, leathery and meaty, Pianetta 2016 Tuscan Nights (Central abv: 14.8% Price: $70 it has plenty of weight on offer and grippy tannins, 89 Coast). This ripe blend of 72% Cabernet the fruit leaning into savory black currant and a side Sauvignon, 25% Sangiovese and 3% Petite Sirah Robert Hall 2016 Cavern Select G-S-M (Paso helping of tobacco. Let this one sit a bit; enjoy best starts with rich black cherry, sweet cedar and can- 92 Robles). For full review see page 9. from 2021–2026. Cellar Selection. —V.B. died raspberry on the nose. There are grippy tan- abv: 15% Price: $45 abv: 15.1% Price: $99 nins on the sip and decent acidity, delivering flavors of exotic red cherry and mace. —M.K. Sheldon 2016 The Red Hat (Napa Valley). Coursey Graves 2016 Bennett Mountain abv: 13.9% Price: $46 92 This is a tiny production field blend of 90 ­Estate (Bennett Valley). From an estate 90% Petite Sirah and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. It vineyard this combines 60% Merlot and 40% Cab- B Cellars 2016 Blend 27 (Napa Valley). A surprises and delights in aromas of floral lavender ernet Sauvignon. Together, they offer a broad, succu- 88 full-bodied combination of 60% Merlot sachet and white pepper, the red fruit is high-toned lent experience of strawberry and cassis that’s bright with 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Ver- and tangy, with buoyant acidity and freshness shin- and full bodied, with an underlying density that fin- dot, this is a grippy plummy wine of serious earthi- ing from start to finish. —V.B. ishes dipped in leather and black pepper. —V.B. ness. It offers turned earth, compost and forest ele- abv: 12.9% Price: $37 abv: 14.5% Price: $75 ments that compel and combine well together. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $87 Stature 2013 Red (Sonoma County). This is Epiphany 2016 Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon 92 a brawny, meaty and thick wine made from 90 (Santa Barbara County). Blackberry jelly is

WINEMAG.COM | 93

BUYINGGUIDE

Blackbird Vineyards 2016 Arise (Napa vignon. The mouthfeel is quite full and rich, and the dry, with only touches of dark fruit and violets com- 88 Valley).­ This proprietary blend is dominant flavors trend toward caramelized berry fruits and ing through the veil at this point. —M.K. in Merlot and Cabernet Franc, its tannins burly and balsamic tones, framed by squeaky tannins. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $65 cradled in sizable helpings of toasted oak. Juicy red abv: 14.2% Price: $45 fruit is seasoned in dried herb, clove and pencil Villa San Juliette 2014 shavings. —V.B. Lobo 2016 Howl Wulff Vineyards Custom Red 88 (Paso Robles). Cassis and caramelized abv: 14.1% Price: $54 87 (Napa Valley). Made from 65% Syrah, 30% strawberry aromas show on the fairly extracted nose Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot, this tastes of this bottling of a red-pulped grape that’s rarely Castoro Cellars 2016 Pasofusion Reserve of caramel toffee and red cherry, and is sizable in seen at all in California, much less all by itself. The 88 (Paso Robles). Full on the nose with ripe weight and ripeness. The structure is moderate and palate is flush with soft red fruit and sprinkled with red fruits, this blend offers sweet wood and snapped the wine softly approachable. —V.B. chai spice. —M.K. sagebrush aromas as well. The palate shows tangy abv: 14.5% Price: $65 abv: 14% Price: $30 boysenberry and herbal flavors, framed by very tight drying tannins. —M.K. Lorenzi Estate 2014 Brutus Private Reserve Rockin’ R Winery 2013 Barbara Anne abv: 13.7% Price: $40 87 (Temecula Valley). Slightly sour boysen- 84 (Paso Robles). Ripe and tangy at once on the berry aromas meet with caramel, fudge and oak on nose, this bottling shows berry and overextracted­ Cloak & Dagger 2016 Cryptology (Paso the nose of this blend of Petite Sirah, Syrah and cherry on the nose. Roasted tomato, cherry and 88 Robles). Tart blackberry, cracked pepper, Zinfandel. Oaky flavors dominate the palate, where licorice spice show on the sip. —M.K. lilac and a touch of balsamic show on the nose of cooked berries and caramel lean a little bit sweet yet abv: 12.8% Price: $36 this blend. There are savory char and peppery notes remain pleasurable. —M.K. to the palate, which surrounds dark-berry flavors. abv: 14.75% Price: $55 —M.K. SWEET WINES abv: 14.7% Price: $49 Chuparosa 2016 North Block Blend (Ramona 86 Valley). This blend of Sangiovese, Malbec Williams Selyem 2016 Vista Verde Vineyard Cloak & Dagger 2016 Espionage (Paso and Cabernet Franc from San Diego County is a bit 92 Late Harvest Gewürztraminer (San Benito 88 Robles). Dried black plums, purple flow- light in the glass and shows aromas of candied red County). For full review see page 10. ers, toasted wood and a touch of funk show on the cherry as well as leather and Old World-like funk. abv: 19.2% Price: $40/375 ml nose of this blend of 68% Malbec, 19% Caber- The palate is a tad sour. —M.K. net Franc and 13% Petit Verdot. There’s a strong, abv: 14% Price: $30 Byington 2014 Euphoria Late Harvest Pinot almost skunky herbal kick to the palate, which gives 85 Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Light in the depth to the tart berry and black-plum-skin flavors. Rockin’ R Winery 2012 Everything in Its Right glass for a dessert wine, this unique bottling of late —M.K. 81 Place (Paso Robles). Sour and tart berries harvest Pinot Noir offers raisin, sandalwood and abv: 14% Price: $47 smell like balsamic vinegar on the nose. The palate cedar on the nose. The palate is ripe and pruney is also very sour with almost painful acidity. —M.K. with flavors of sour raisin and smoked cedar. —M.K. Crū 2015 Monarch (Paso Robles). Smoked abv: 13.3% Price: $30 abv: 18% Price: $32/375 ml 88 wood, light red currant and a stronger cas- sis element begins to emerge on the nose of this blend of 68% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, OTHER RED WINES FORTIFIED WINES 6% Charbono and 6% Carignane. There is a clean line of elderberry fruit with hints of white pepper Martian Ranch 2016 Absolute Magnitude Williams Selyem 2012 Vista Verde Vineyard and cedar on the lighter-bodied palate. —M.K. 94 Gamay Noir (Santa Barbara County). For full 91 Port (San Benito County). For full review see abv: 14.1% Price: $35 review see page 5. Editors’ Choice. page 13. abv: 14.1% Price: $40 abv: 20% Price: $40/375 ml Ferguson Crest 2016 Fergalicious (Santa 88 Ynez Valley). There is a strong herbal and Seven Angels 2015 Tempranillo (Paso Lion Ranch NV VP Viognier (Santa Clara peppercorn start to the nose of this wine, followed 90 Robles).­ Black plum, leather, tobacco and a 86 Valley).­ An uncommon offering of sweet by leather and black fruit. The blend of 40% Syrah, hint of jasmine show on the nose of this bottling of Viognier, this bottling shows honeydew, crushed 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Petit Verdot and a still rather uncommon grape for the region. There stone and orange peel on the nose. It’s a tad oily on 20% Grenache shows gamy Old World flavors on is also a jasmine touch to the palate, where intrigu- the palate with petrol-laced flavors of sour lime peel. the palate of dried leather, dried meat, black plum ing purple-flower flavors meet with ripe blueberries —M.K. and graphite minerality. —M.K. and licorice spice. —M.K. abv: 18.5% Price: $29 abv: 14.4% Price: $35 abv: 14.2% Price: $34

If You See Kay 2016 Red (Paso Robles). Per- Europa Village 2014 Vienza Barbera (Teme­ OREGON 87 haps the biggest labeling trick on govern- 89 cula Valley). Italian grapes seem to excel ment minders in awhile (get it?), this stylishly in the Temecula Valley’s warm climate, and this is CHARDONNAY packaged bottling offers aromas of smashed straw- no exception. Light in the glass, the Barbera offers berries, cherry Jolly Ranchers and mint chocolate mace and nutmeg aromas against a raspberry- Evening Land 2016 Seven Springs Estate La chip. The palate is quite sweet with boysenberry pie liqueur background. The palate blends cola spice 93 Source Chardonnay (Eola-Amity Hills). Pine- flavors, and will probably excel in the broad market. with smooth dried red cherry and a long fennel- apple jumps out, a wash of intense fruit flavor, sup- —M.K. laced finish. —M.K. ported by juicy, fresh acidity. The fruit piles on blood abv: 14.1% Price: $23 abv: 15.2% Price: $60 orange, Meyer lemon, grapefruit and more. All this lush ripeness is buoyed and balanced by the acidity, Lorenzi Estate 2014 French Twist (Temecula McClain Cellars 2016 Painted Dreams Petit and the tangy flavors are never bitter or sour. The 87 Valley). Rich aromas of black cherry, candied 88 Verdot (Santa Ynez Valley). Wet stone and length and intensity are especially impressive, fin- violets and charred cigar box show on the nose of black-plum aromas show on the fairly reserved nose ishing with a nice lick of coconut. —P.G. this blend of Petit Verdot, Merlot and Cabernet Sau- of this bottling. The palate is tightly wound and very abv: 13% Price: $75

94 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 Evening Land 2016 Seven Springs Estate pear, highlights of graham cracker crust and a finish- crisp and steely, with a little Viognier blended back 93 Summum Chardonnay (Eola-Amity Hills). ing hint of toasted coconut. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. in to add a welcome bit of texture. —P.G. Summum is the reserve-level Chardonnay from this abv: 13.2% Price: $30 abv: 12.5% Price: $23 Chardonnay specialist. This is a chewy, textural wine, deeply fruited with nectarine, blood orange, Amity 2017 Pinot Blanc (Willamette Valley). Amity 2017 White Pinot Noir (Willamette Meyer lemon, candied lemon peel and grapefruit. 90 This is a pleasantly distinctive version of the 87 Valley).­ Some white Pinot Noirs have rich The lush citrus flavors are supported with seams of grape, fermented and aged in stainless steel, yet with fruit flavors that hint at cherry, but here the color butterscotch, toast and coconut. —P.G. lovely apple and tangerine fruit and a wash of almond and overall lightness seem closer to a Pinot Noir abv: 13% Price: $100 paste. The relatively low alcohol and suggestions of rosé. The peach and cherry fruit is delicate, and gets honey may mean that some grape sugar remains, and no boost from aging in stainless steel. —P.G. Evening Land 2016 Seven Springs Chardon- if that’s the case, it works quite nicely. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $38 92 nay (Eola-Amity Hills). Firm, tight, this is abv: 12.9% Price: $28 focused with green apple, melon, butter and toast. Kings Ridge 2016 Pinot Gris (Willamette Val- It opens up into a broad midpalate, maintaining that Winderlea 2017 Meredith Mitchell Vineyard 87 ley). This is a straightforward example of focus through a lingering finish with a delicious 90 Pinot Blanc (McMinnville). The winery con- the variety that will appeal to many. It shows broad, butter-cookie flavor. —P.G. tinues its interesting experiment with this wine, simple flavors of apple and pear, but concludes with abv: 13.5% Price: $35 in a blend in which almost half was aged in clay a bitter sting on the finish. —P.G. amphora, 40% in neutral oak, and 18% in stainless abv: 13% Price: $17 Saffron Fields Vineyard 2016 Estate Char- steel. It’s an unusual mix—textured, softened up a 92 donnay (Yamhill-Carlton). Just a single bit, with a mix of lime, grapefruit and Meyer lemon Chardonnay was made in 2016, and it’s a gem. Done fruit. The time in clay brings those drying flavors SPARKLING ROSÉS in a racy crystalline mineral-driven style, it saw just into sharp focus. —P.G. 20% new French oak, which, as it turns out, was abv: 12.9% Price: $30 Quady North 2016 Brut Rosé of Cabernet plenty. Honeycrisp apple, tangerine and lemon-rind 88 Franc (Applegate Valley). Done in the tra- flavors are lightly framed with pretty barrel toast. ditional Champagne method, this unusual sparkling Editors’ Choice. —P.G. OTHER WHITE WINES wine, based on Cabernet Franc, brings sharply- abv: 13.5% Price: $42 focused apple fruit front and center. Though still Harper Voit 2016 Maresh Vineyard Old Vine quite young, it’s a crisp and refreshing wine that King Estate 2017 Chardonnay (Willamette 94 Riesling (Dundee Hills). Stunning aromatics will set up well with a variety of the usual appetizers­ 91 Valley). For full review see page 12. combine spicy citrus, tangy tropical and spun sugar for good bubbly. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 notes. In the mouth, the wine (though bone dry) still abv: 11.2% Price: $35 manages to convey a sense of fruit sugar. It’s tart, Winderlea 2016 Chardonnay (Willamette racy and complex, with the structure to age for 15 A to Z NV Bubbles Rosé Wine (Oregon). For 90 Valley). A ripe juicy wine, this brings a ­lively years or longer, but delicious already. The vines date 88 full review see page 16. Editors’ Choice. mix of citrus fruits lightly accented with French oak back to the early 1970s. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 (nine months, 25% new). It’s a good effort, but not abv: 12.6% Price: $30 as deeply flavored as the previous vintage. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $45 Quady North 2017 Steelhead Run Vineyard PINOT NOIR 92 Viognier (Applegate Valley). Pure varietal, Moffett 2016 Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). this is as perfectly-ripened as Viognier can ever be. Domaine Serene 2015 Mark Bradford Vine- 89 Re-established in Oregon after a long-con- Rich, smooth flavors of melon and tangerine with 95 yard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). For full templated move from California, Trent Moffett is zesty notes of Meyer lemon push the fruit forward, review see page 4. Cellar Selection. now focused on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Tart with underlying minerality keeping the lengthy fin- abv: 14.5% Price: $130 lemon and grapefruit lift this high-acid style,that’s ­ ish fresh and invigorating. Drink now and over the snappy and clean, though a bit austere despite a next two or three years. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Big Table Farm 2016 Sunnyside Vineyard year in 30% French oak. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $24 94 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For full abv: 14.2% Price: $35 review see page 5. Editors’ Choice. Quady North 2017 Pistoleta (Rogue ­Valley). abv: 14.3% Price: $62 Alchemist 2016 Chardonnay (Willamette 91 For full review see page 12. Editors’ Choice. 88 Valley). This remains a sharp, angled wine abv: 12.6% Price: $20 Broadley 2016 Jessica Pinot Noir (Willa- with somewhat unintegrated components. Melon 94 mette Valley). This vintage of Jessica is flavors and a pat of butter are in the mix, and some Underwood 2017 Pinot Gris (Oregon). This a rock star of a wine, a full display of raw, unresolved wood flavors also, perhaps from 90 exceptionally lively, all stainless Pinot Gris craftsmanship at its best. Black-cherry, black-tea, time in 228-liter French oak. The potential is there. has more natural fruit complexity than most unoaked tobacco and coffee flavors are seamlessly combined Decant aggressively or wait another year or two Chardonnays, at half the price. Lime, apple and white in a rich supple utterly captivating wine that will be before opening. —P.G. peach fruit, along with compelling minerality, make hard to leave in your cellar for very long. It’s 100% abv: 13.2% Price: $30 this surefire for seafood, simple poultry and mild Wädenswil clone, and was 50% whole-cluster cheeses. Best Buy. —P.G. ­fermented. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.6% Price: $14 abv: 13.8% Price: $55 PINOT BLANC Quady North 2016 Eevee’s Vineyard Cramoisi 2016 Reserve Pinot Noir (Dundee Harper Voit 2015 Élevage Pinot Blanc (Eola- 89 ­Grenache Blanc (Applegate Valley). Though 94 Hills). The reserve is two-thirds Pommard 92 Amity Hills). Sourced from the highest point not as rich as its first (2015) vintage, this forward and one-third heirloom clone, fermented with in the Bieze vineyard, this crisp, beautifully defined and fruity wine is ripe enough, with plenty of cit- native yeast and aged 18 months in 75% new oak. wine bursts forth with ripe autumnal apple fruit, rus-tinged acidity, along with freshly cut apple. It’s Deeply richly fruity, it’s a ripe bowl of blackberries in a bottle, with a lush finish loaded with mocha and

WINEMAG.COM | 95

BUYINGGUIDE toast. Irrepressibly delicious, yet built to age nicely Lavinea 2016 Lazy River Vineyard Pinot Noir Big Table Farm 2016 Wirtz Vineyard Pinot over the next decade or so. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 94 (Yamhill-Carlton). Lovely aromatics intro- 93 Noir (Willamette Valley). This old-vine abv: 14.2% Price: $70 duce bright, fresh and forward raspberry and tart Coury clone cuvée is making its last appearance in cherry fruit. It’s supple and well proportioned, with Big Table Farm’s lineup, for reasons undisclosed. Domaine Serene 2015 Aspect Pinot Noir lingering threads of coffee, iron and graphite add- It’s a fine finale—a lush and inviting mix of ripe 94 (Dundee Hills). For full review see page 5. ing texture and detail. This should continue to drink blackberry and black-cherry fruit, sweet spice and a abv: 14.5% Price: $125 quite well over the next six to eight years. Editors’ touch of chocolate-covered orange rind. The tannins Choice. —P.G. keep it smooth and supple on through an extended Domaine Serene 2015 Winery Hill Vineyard abv: 13.5% Price: $55 finish. —P.G. 94 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). For full review see abv: 13.5% Price: $62 page 5. Cellar Selection. Scott Paul 2016 Maresh Vineyard Pinot Noir abv: 14.1% Price: $100 94 (Dundee Hills). The 40-year-old Maresh Broadley 2015 Marcile Lorraine Pinot Noir vineyard vines contribute flavors of ripe berry, 93 (Willamette Valley). Forward and fruit-­ Evening Land 2016 Seven Springs Estate La cherry and other red fruits with both depth and driven, the flavors here touch on strawberry, cherry 94 Source Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Tight power. Tannins remain a bit astringent, with 40% and tangy tangerine. It’s a juicy ripe delicious bottle, and still pulling itself together, this mixes tart pie whole cluster fermentation perhaps a factor. ­Aging balanced and ready for near-term drinking. Enjoy cherries with stiff tannins, earth, pepper and bark. for 16 months in 30% new oak adds a finishing this excellent wine from now on into the early The phenolic earthy flavors are offset by the fruit touch of chocolate. The concentration and depth of 2020s, when it should be at its best. —P.G. and acid, and the overall mix of components will this wine should reward medium to long term cel- abv: 13.5% Price: $50 ultimately fashion a complex wine with a finishing laring. Drink now to 2030. Cellar Selection. —P.G. lick of sweet spice from aging in 50% new French abv: 13.7% Price: $85 Carlton Cellars 2015 Roads End Pinot Noir oak. Hold for another couple of years and drink from 93 (Yamhill-Carlton). A reserve-level wine 2020 through 2030. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Sineann 2017 Yates Conwill Vineyard Pinot sourced from the estate’s Russell-Grooters vine- abv: 13.5% Price: $75 94 Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). This outstanding yard, this new vintage vaults into the top ranks of value showcases the fruit from a vineyard adjacent high-end value wines from Oregon. It stands apart Failla 2016 Eola Springs Vineyard Pinot Noir to Jadot’s Résonance vineyard. It’s an under-the- with expanded, deeper flavors than the excellent 94 (Eola-Amity Hills). Intriguing scents of radar site beautifully expressed here by winemaker regular bottling from the same vineyard. Black slightly dusty, brambly berries, along with a deli- Peter Rosback. Densely packed with strawberry and fruits are layered around rich barrel flavors of Bour- cate hint of leather, lead into a burst of cherry fruit cherry fruit, it’s textural, deep and long, wrapping bon, Kahlua and molasses. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. holding down the flavor core. The fruit from the up in a tight citrus-framed finish. Drink now and abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Pommard clone expresses, in a restrained fashion, over the next decade. Cellar Selection. —P.G. the AVA’s typical earthy component. Sappy acids abv: 13.8% Price: $42 Cramoisi 2016 Sofia’s Block Pinot Noir support the lingering, detailed finish. Drink 2022 93 (Dundee Hills). Drawing upon young vines to 2033. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Winderlea 2016 Winderlea Legacy Pinot Noir planted in 2012, this all-Dijon clone wine shows abv: 14.1% Price: $42 94 (Dundee Hills). For full review see page 6. amazing length and strength. Mixed berry-fruit fla- abv: 12% Price: $85 vors are rich and juicy, while the overall balance is Failla 2016 Seven Springs Vineyard Pinot supple and refreshing. There’s a burst of spice as it 94 Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Exceptional fruit Archery Summit 2016 Arcus Vineyard Pinot trails in a finish elevated with flavors of blood orange. from an exceptional vineyard sparks this broadly 93 Noir (Dundee Hills). Full throttle fruit, wide —P.G. delicious Pinot Noir. Berries, citrus and lemon-tea open with big flavors of black cherry, this red easily abv: 14.2% Price: $62 flavors combine, with light but impactful skin and carries the barrel highlights (41% new French oak) stem highlights from 50% whole cluster fermenta- and herbal components from 40% whole-cluster Domaine Serene 2015 Jerusalem Hill Vine- tion. The wine spent 11 months in 15% new French fermentation. Streaks of coffee, dark chocolate and 93 yard Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). The sole oak, and was bottled unfined and unfiltered. —P.G. wet bark roll through polished tannins. This seems Domaine Serene vineyard outside of the Dundee abv: 14.1% Price: $60 bound to improve over the next decade and longer. Hills, this sits in a most trendy location, surrounded Editors’ Choice. —P.G. by rising star . Smooth, supple and deli- Harper Voit 2016 Bieze Vineyard Pinot Noir abv: 13.8% Price: $125 cious immediately upon opening, it’s a showcase 94 (Eola-Amity Hills). The Calera clone is rare mix of blue fruits, satiny chocolate, oolong tea and a in Oregon; here it’s in the mix with the more com- Archery Summit 2016 Red Hills Vineyard tantalizing whiff of smoke. —P.G. mon Pommard. This young, tight wine brings bright, 93 ­Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Once again this abv: 14% Price: $95 primary cranberry and raspberry fruit flavors, set cuvée opens with lush aromatics of ripe raspber- upon a firm spine of balanced acids and polished ries and sandalwood incense. There are hints of Evening Land 2016 Seven Springs Estate tannins. Notes of iron, licorice and coffee grounds fresh herbs also, and the flavors, still young and 93 Anden Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). This is come up in the finish, and overall this has the struc- tight, show good balance and detail. Put this away sharp and spicy, with a streak of wintergreen and ture for a decade of life at least. Drink 2022 to the another couple of years and drink throughout the licorice somewhat muting the wild-berry fruit. early 2030s. Cellar Selection. —P.G. 2020s. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Fermented entirely with whole clusters and native abv: 14.4% Price: $65 abv: 14% Price: $100 yeast, this is a strongly flavored wine, with tart ­berry and cherry fruit. Aging four months in 100% new Harper Voit 2016 Bramble Hill Vineyard Big Table Farm 2016 Pinot Noir (Yamhill-­ French oak brings up baking spices such as cinna- 94 Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). This captures 93 Carlton). A paean to the classic signature of mon, allspice and ginger through the finish. —P.G. the magic of this tiny AVA. It’s an elegant tumble of the AVA, this mixes blue and black fruits into a fully abv: 13% Price: $100 berry fruit, sedimentary minerals and light seams of ripened slice of berry-pie goodness. Along with that cola, coffee and clean earth. The balance and com- exceptional fruit are hints and highlights of earth, Failla 2016 Björnson Vineyard Pinot Noir plexity, along with site-specific density, are superb. herb and olive. The full-bodied flavors are finished 93 (Eola-Amity­ Hills). Another in a series of Editors’ Choice. —P.G. with a light suggestion of cedar plank. —P.G. single-vineyard offerings from Ehren Jordan, this abv: 14.5% Price: $65 abv: 14.3% Price: $62 shows earthy richness and brambly strawberry and raspberry fruit. It’s pretty and complex, with the sort

96 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 of elegant density that promises further develop- wine, this suggests strawberry compote and cherry Bethel Heights 2016 Estate Pinot Noir (Eola- ment over the next decade or longer. Editors’ Choice. pie in the nose, with ripe fruit flavors to follow. 92 Amity Hills). Deep, dense and dark aromatics —P.G. Threaded with sandalwood and graphite streaks, spotlight blackberry and black cherry. It’s a smooth abv: 14.1% Price: $45 its balanced ripe tannins carry a finishing flicker of well-integrated wine with a thick veneer of fruit, mocha. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. smoke and earth. The tannins are substantial, pol- Failla 2016 Chehalem Mountain Vineyard abv: 14.1% Price: $42 ished to a fine lustre, and carry a streak of graphite. 93 ­Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). This Editors’ Choice. —P.G. vineyard selection is 100% Dijon 115 clone, 30% Sineann 2017 TFL Pinot Noir (Willamette Val- abv: 13.8% Price: $32 whole-cluster fermented. Spicy fresh flavors of 93 ley). This is essentially a reserve selection berry, pomegranate and citrus peel show subtle from Yates Conwill fruit, and it’s a rich classy wine, Broadley 2017 Pinot Noir (Willamette ­Valley). hints of sea-shell minerality. This wine needs fairly beginning to show its age already, perhaps because 92 One of the first of the 2017s to be released, aggressive aeration, or cellar it for another couple it is bottled exclusively in half bottles. Spice and this elegant, sophisticated wine dramatically out- of years. —P.G. citrus, freshly picked berries, and overall a dense performs its price point. The luminous color, pretty abv: 14.1% Price: $45 juicy character make it appealing already, though floral aromatics and subtle integration of fruit all aging another few years is also a good option. —P.G. suggest a wine that could easily bear a reserve label. Harper Voit 2016 Strandline Pinot Noir abv: 14.2% Price: $30/375 ml Raspberry and cherry fruit, sweet spices, polished 93 (Willamette­ Valley). A brilliant garnet hue, tannins and supple acidity pull it together nicely, this intensely aromatic, lush and sexy wine mixes Winderlea 2016 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir even at such a young age. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. black-cherry fruit with scents and seams of sandal- 93 (Yamhill-Carlton). Aromatic and deeply abv: 13.5% Price: $22 wood and cedar. Though still a bit stiffly tannic, it imbued with scents of black fruits, iron and barrel should benefit from additional bottle age, as a sec- toast, the careful handing of this exceptional fruit Broadley 2016 Shea Pinot Noir (Willamette ond day taste shows. The best drinking window will yields a wine with power and finesse. The potent pri- 92 Valley). A lot of Oregon vintners are eager to open during the 2020s. —P.G. mary fruit flavors are set upon a sturdy age-worthy get on Shea’s customer list, and this bottle is as good abv: 14.3% Price: $65 base of stiff acids and ripe tannins. Drink this during an example as any why that’s the case. A striking mix the decade of the 2020s. Cellar Selection. —P.G. of cranberry, strawberry, raspberry and marionberry Harper Voit 2016 Terrarossa Vineyard Pinot abv: 13.4% Price: $60 flavors, it also sports a firm seam of stem and earth. 93 Noir (Dundee Hills). Bright, spicy and fra- The tannins are smooth and polished, with the grantly fruity, this coats the palate with lush flavors Alexana 2016 Fennwood Vineyard Pinot Noir pleasantly drying mouthfeel of tea. —P.G. of raspberry puree. Firm polished tannins extend the 92 (Yamhill-Carlton). A fine-tuned complex abv: 13.8% Price: $55 finish gracefully. Still in its infancy, the primary and wine that rewards your full attention, this offers focused fruit flavors are delicious now, but the real pretty fruit flavors of golden raspberries and a touch Broadley 2015 Claudia’s Choice Pinot Noir pleasure here should come with additional bottle age. of lemon chiffon. It’s smooth, elegant and lingering, 92 (Willamette Valley). A pretty wine with —P.G. with the promise of further development. Drink now sappy fruit flavors, this included 40% whole clus- abv: 14.3% Price: $65 through the late 2020s. Cellar Selection. —P.G. ters in the fermentation, and 30% new French oak abv: 14.1% Price: $65 barrels in the élévage. Concentrated raspberry pre- Lavinea 2016 Nysa Vineyard Pinot Noir serves anchor the fruit, with interesting seams of 93 (Dundee Hills). Tightly packed with tart Andrew Rich 2015 Marine Sedimentary Pinot buttermilk and a touch of toasted cracker. —P.G. berry fruit, highlighted with sharp tangy acidity, 92 Noir (Willamette Valley). One of the win- abv: 13.5% Price: $50 there’s some bite to this young wine which should ery’s “soil designates”, this wine tastes as if it were profit from further bottle age. Black cherry and sourced from Ribbon Ridge, though there is no indi- Cardwell Hill 2015 Monet Blocks Estate blood orange, along with hints of pepper and mush- cation other than the broad Willamette Valley AVA. 92 ­Bottled Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). room, display the range and depth of flavor here. Complex layers of berry, cherry, cola, brown sugar Among the highlights from an exceptional set of Drink from 2022 on. —P.G. and coffee liqueur are integrated beautifully. The 2015 Pinots from Cardwell Hill is this barrel selec- abv: 13.5% Price: $65 wine sails through a perfectly balanced finish, with tion of Pommard and Dijon 777 clones. Bright fla- lingering highlights of all of the above, and a splash vors of raspberry and cherry are buttressed with Lavinea 2016 Temperance Hill Pinot Noir of citrus trailing behind. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. ample acid and just a light touch of chocolate. 93 (Eola-Amity Hills). All of Lavinea’s wines abv: 14.2% Price: $45 Editors’­ Choice. —P.G. are deftly detailed, but none more than this. Cit- abv: 13.9% Price: $32 rus, rosemary, wet rock and well-ripened tannins Anne Amie 2015 Twelve Oaks Estate Pinot add complexity to the core of blueberry and bran- 92 Noir (Chehalem Mountains). This is an ele- Cardwell Hill 2015 Old Vines Estate Bot- died cherry fruit. Beautifully balanced and long, gant wine, seemingly light but offering wonderful 92 tled Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). From it’s coming together nicely and should continue to details as it unfolds across and through the palate. ungrafted vines planted in 1983, this light and ele- improve over the next half decade or more. —P.G. Cherry tomato, golden raspberry and yellow-plum gant wine is a complex mix of citrus rind and tangy abv: 13.6% Price: $75 flavors combine, with hints and highlights of san- raspberry fruit, and is still a bit tightly wound. dalwood, mocha and Asian spices. Don’t quit on The sharpness of the primary fruit flavors suggests Moffett 2015 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette this wine and it won’t quit on you. —P.G. that further aging is not only possible, but advised. 93 Valley). Crafted from just a barrel each abv: 13.3% Price: $45 Drink from 2020. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. selected from the winery’s three vineyard desig- abv: 13.9% Price: $28 nates, this rich and full-bodied wine deftly frames Archery Summit 2016 Summit Vineyard its blueberry, plum and cherry fruit in flavors of 92 ­Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). In this new vin- Carlton Cellars 2015 Estate Pinot Noir (Yam- caramel and toast. It’s exactly the sort of young and tage the Summit selection has quickly smoothed 92 hill-Carlton). Quality is growing by leaps and delicious wine that seems to refill your glass all by out thanks to a year in 50% new French oak. Cher- bounds at Carlton Cellars, and the grapes from the itself. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. ries and chocolate, almond paste and yes, peanut estate’s Russell-Grooters vineyard are the center- abv: 14.3% Price: $65 butter flavors, are all in play. It’s a supple sexy wine piece here. A lovely Pinot-perfect pale-rose color, that may be opened and enjoyed immediately. —P.G. this aromatic and sexy wine offers crisp red fruits, Owen Roe 2016 Sojourner Vineyard Pinot abv: 13.8% Price: $150 93 Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). A lush and textured

WINEMAG.COM | 97

BUYINGGUIDE notes of cola, spice and brown sugar, and a lightly pomegranate, raspberry and cherry fruit with a dark vineyard, planted in the late 1980s with own-rooted dusty feel to the tannins. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. thread of coffee.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. vines. The wine is dark and muscular, with brambly abv: 14.3% Price: $35 abv: 14.1% Price: $28 black-cherry fruit. Streaks of earth and iron add fur- ther density, and there’s a slight hint of leather in Dion 2016 Old Vines Pinot Noir (Chehalem Harper Voit 2016 Antiquum Vineyard Pinot the nose. Already displaying good initial depth and 92 Mountains). The old vines referenced are 92 Noir (Willamette Valley). A delicious, com- power, this should be consumed 2024–2026. —P.G. Pommard clone, own-rooted, and planted in 1976. pounding mix of strawberry, raspberry and Bing abv: 13% Price: $100 A complex array of tart fruits run from cranberry to cherry fruit, this smooths its way through a lus- raspberry, juicy and resolving in a light suggestion cious midpalate, with barrel-inflected flavors of Owen Roe 2016 Durant Vineyards Clonmac- of Dr. Pepper soda. Aging for 18 months in half new mocha, milk chocolate and almond paste. It’s soft 92 nois Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Black fruits French oak barrels adds highlights of toasted hazel- and subtle, with forward flavors that suggest drink- are underscored with hints of seashells, leading into nuts. Drink now through the early 2020s. —P.G. ing it sooner rather than later. —P.G. a sharp, focused wine with the structure to cellar abv: 14.6% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $65 well. Light suggestions of blood and mushrooms add complexity, and it should benefit from another year Domaine Serene 2015 Fleur de Lis Vineyard Harper Voit 2016 Filament Estate Vineyard or two in bottle. Drink from 2020–2030. Cellar 92 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Savory expressive 92 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). The sense Selection. —P.G. aromas introduce this wine, which is significantly and supposition is that these are young vines, with abv: 13% Price: $55 riper than in the previous vintage. The palate is clean, bright fruit flavors that favor tangy cranberry a generous mix of cherry pastry, cola and baking and raspberry. At first whiff, the sense of vanilla is Owen Roe 2016 The Kilmore Pinot Noir spices. It spent 17 months in half new French oak a bit overwhelming, but as the wine breathes open 92 (Yamhill-Carlton). The winery’s biggest pro- barrels. —P.G. that subsides: young vines, young wine. Aggressive duction Pinot Noir is a gem, with grip, tension and abv: 14.5% Price: $100 aeration is highly recommended. —P.G. power. Black fruits etched with iron ore and graph- abv: 14.3% Price: $65 ite, along with a touch of black olive, make this Elton 2016 Florine Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity smooth and supple wine a joy to explore. The tan- 92 Hills). This is the second vintage for this Holmes Gap 2015 Pioneer Pinot Noir (Willa­ nins are ripe and very lightly earthy. It’s delicious new label under the Willamette Valley Vineyards 92 mette Valley). Strikingly fresh and deli- the instant you pull the cork, so don’t wait. —P.G. umbrella, and last year’s single Pinot Noir is now cious raspberry and cherry fruit absolutely rocks abv: 13% Price: $42 split into a pair. The Florine is a 2000 planting at this young wine. It’s bright and immaculately clean, the highest elevation, and shows impressive depth with comparable juicy flavors to certain classic Dry Portlandia 2016 Momtazi Vineyard ­Pinot Noir and detail. Brambly blackberry fruit is highlighted Creek Zins. Forward and fruit-driven, with a tart 92 (McMinnville). Potent flavors of marionberry­ with peppery spice, and the wine’s finish brings tangy tail, this is an under-the-radar gem. —P.G. pie topped with cherry-vanilla ice cream somehow still darker streaks of chocolate and coffee grounds. abv: 14.3% Price: $40 work well here. They are firmly backed with propor- Good already, this should continue to improve over tionate acids and tannins, and the vineyard’s bio­ the next half decade. —P.G. Lavinea 2016 Elton Vineyard Pinot Noir dynamic grapes bring extra texture, along with hints abv: 13.9% Price: $75 92 (Eola-Amity Hills). A smooth, supple, yet of clean earth, tobacco and nutmeg. —P.G. muscular wine, this brings blackberry and black- abv: 14.1% Price: $40 Elton 2016 Self-Rooted Pinot Noir (Eola-­ cherry fruit, a vein of cola and a dusting of choco- 92 Amity Hills). This is the second vintage for late powder. It’s already drinking quite nicely, with R. Stuart & Co. 2016 Hirschy Pinot Noir this new label under the Willamette Valley Vine- well-integrated fruit and barrel flavors, while a nice 92 (Yamhill-Carlton). A lush mix of pie cherry yards umbrella, and last year’s single Pinot Noir lemony acidity underscores the finish. —P.G. and briary blackberry fruit, this moves into more is now split into a pair. This one is built upon abv: 13.8% Price: $75 ­rarified territory with well-placed hints of thistle 30+-year-old Pommard vines, ungrafted as the and stem. The finish brings a dash of sea-salt choco- name implies. It’s a sexy detailed seductive wine Moffett 2016 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). late along with polished tannins. —P.G. that offers immediate pleasure and medium-term 92 Trent Moffett moved his California winery abv: 14.5% Price: $50 ageability. Flavors of plum cake and black-cherry to Oregon in 2014, to focus principally on Pinot Noir. turnover abound; no need to wait on this one. —P.G. Working with consulting winemaker Drew Voit, he’s Saffron Fields Vineyard 2016 Pinot Noir abv: 13.7% Price: $75 off to a great start. Sourced from the Terrarossa­ 92 (Yamhill-Carlton). Winemaker Tony Rynders­ vineyard, this bright and sappy wine offers luscious consistently makes this top-tier cuvée a toasty treat. Evening Land 2016 Seven Springs Pinot Noir flavors of raspberry compote and pie cherries. Full, Pleasing berry and cherry fruits open generously, 92 (Eola-Amity Hills). Svelte and smoky, this forward and delightfully fruity, it fills in the ample with soft tannins and lush barrel flavors of caramel is a sexy bottle of Pinot Noir. The fruit is supple finish with flavors of roasted coffee and barrel toast, and butter brickle. —P.G. and seamless, with plums, marionberries, figs and from aging in 40% new French oak. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $55 chocolate. Aged for one year in 25% new French abv: 14.2% Price: $60 oak, it’s firm and rippled with touches of olive and Saffron Fields Vineyard 2016 Dijon Clones mushroom. This exceptional value is simply a riot of Nicolas-Jay 2016 Pinot Noir (Willamette 92 Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). Yummy (O.K., flavor.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 92 Valley). Young and a bit chewy, this brings not a technical term) is the first word that comes abv: 13.5% Price: $35 a nicely-layered mix of orange peel, almond paste, to mind upon tasting this inviting wine. Tangy black cherry, sassafras and cola, all in good propor- berry fruit enlivened with sappy acidity drives it on Failla 2016 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). tion. Those well-integrated components are further through a generous midpalate. Just a dash of pepper 92 Add Ehren Jordan to the growing number highlighted with a streak of iron ore and graphite. comes up on the finish. It spent 18 months in barrel, of California winemakers who have begun making The complexity is already impressive, and seems 38% new. —P.G. Oregon wines. Apart from his proven talent with sure to improve with age. Drink now through 2030. abv: 14.1% Price: $50 the grape, he brings consumer-friendly pricing Cellar Selection. —P.G. to top-tier wines, starting with this dusty, tightly abv: 13.5% Price: $65 Sineann 2017 Phelps Creek Vineyard Pinot wound gem. Native yeast, 30% whole cluster, 15% 92 Noir (Columbia Gorge). This vineyard was new French oak and a deft hand yield a lively mix of Nicolas-Jay 2016 Bishop Creek Pinot Noir right in the heart of the wildfire zone during the 92 (Yamhill-Carlton). Bishop Creek is the estate summer of 2017, and the winery notes that this

98 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 wine has a campfire aroma, which indeed it does. The aromatics conjure up orange pekoe tea, and a with highlights of tea leaves and dried Mediterra- It’s not the same as barrel toast, yet when paired gentle hint of fresh herb annotates the finish. —P.G. nean herbs. —P.G. with the bright berry fruit, it works in similar fash- abv: 14.3% Price: $65 abv: 14.4% Price: $48 ion. Not for everyone, but it’s a slam dunk match for barbecue. —P.G. Andrew Rich 2015 Volcanic Pinot Noir (Willa- Cardwell Hill 2015 Pommard Block Estate abv: 13.6% Price: $36 91 mette Valley). You might wish for more infor- 91 ­Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). The Pommard mation (and more legible labels) on Andrew Rich’s clone is often a winemaker favorite for its open and Sokol Blosser 2016 Big Tree Block Pinot Noir excellent Pinots, but it’s not here at the moment. broadly fruity appeal. Here the core flavors of black 92 (Dundee Hills). Lovely aromatics introduce a The wine must speak for itself, and it does so quite cherry and cola are further amplified with barrel- wine balanced between tart pomegranate fruit and well, with dense textured seams of black cherry, introduced highlights of baking spices, gingerbread, suggestions of dried leaves and herbs. Baking spices Kahlua and granite. A steely astringent finish sug- coffee and cocoa.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. from the aging in one-quarter new oak add interest gests further aging. Optimal drinking should be the abv: 13.9% Price: $28 to the finish. This is a wine that dives down deep decade of the 2020s. Cellar Selection. —P.G. into the palate and lasts through a long finish. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $45 Château Bianca 2016 Wetzel Estate Puncheon abv: 13.5% Price: $70 91 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). A single pun- Anne Amie 2015 Anne Amie Estate Pinot Noir cheon produced this rich ripe cuvée. It’s loaded with Sokol Blosser 2016 Orchard Block Pinot Noir 91 (Yamhill-Carlton). Sea-shell scents abound in brambly berry and cherry fruit, rounded out with 92 (Dundee Hills). Always one of the winery’s this wine, accenting light fruit flavors of ­cranberry sweet spices. Finishing highlights suggest anise and best, this new vintage doesn’t hold back on some and raspberry. Natural acidity provides balance a dollop of caramel latte. The time in barrel has unusual accent flavors—caraway, cherry pit, dried throughout, and the pretty finish lingers gracefully, placed it in a prime drinking window already, so herb and stem. But there’s also ample tart pie cher- leaving with a dash of sweet spice. —P.G. don’t wait. —P.G. ries, clean earth and even a finishing lick of grape- abv: 13.2% Price: $45 abv: 13% Price: $55 fruit. Note the new label design. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $70 Archery Summit 2016 Archer’s Edge Vineyard Cristom 2015 Estate Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity 91 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Not as ripe or con- 91 Hills). This enticing blend includes grapes The Eyrie Vineyards 2015 Original Vines centrated as in 2015, this is a tight, rather tannic from all of the estate vineyards, in a smooth, supple 92 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). The oldest Pinot wine that will require ample aeration or further bot- and well-integrated wine. The blueberry and sweet Noir vines in the Willamette Valley may be tasted tle age. Astringent tea flavors overtake light black- cherry fruit carries a touch of spice. The round, here, in a carefully crafted, elegant wine built to age. cherry fruit, and 40% whole cluster fermentation almost soft midpalate penetrates and lingers in a Dig deep and let the flavors find you. It’s subtle and emphasizes the earthy, herbal components. —P.G. lush finish. —P.G. expressive, with stacked layers of wild berries, cit- abv: 13.2% Price: $90 abv: 13.5% Price: $50 rus, hay, iron and coffee. If history is any indication, this wine will age gracefully for another 20 years. Archery Summit 2016 Renegade Ridge Vine- Holmes Gap 2015 Ace High Pinot Noir (Willa­ Cellar Selection. —P.G. 91 yard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Pretty cherry 91 mette Valley). A two-barrel reserve selec- abv: 13% Price: $80 and blackberry fruit highlights this palate-pleasing tion, drawn from the estate-grown Pommard clone wine. Three-fifths was whole-cluster fermented, and grapes, this mixes strawberries, raspberries and Winderlea 2016 Crawford Beck Vineyard 30% saw new French oak. Light flavors of Mediter- hints of dried straw. It was aged 18 months in 50% 92 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). According to ranean herbs and milk chocolate add interest. —P.G. new French oak, lending flavors of vanilla tea and winery notes, these grapes got significantly riper in abv: 13.6% Price: $90 cut tobacco to the finish. —P.G. 2016 than the previous vintage—to good effect. The abv: 14.5% Price: $45 wine is focused and intense, with juicy berry, blood Big Table Farm 2016 Cattrall Brothers Vine- orange and tangy acidity highlighting the fruit. Tan- 91 yard Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Once again, Knudsen 2016 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). A nins are firm and lightly earthy, as per this AVA’s this is the lightest of the winery’s single-vineyard 91 light and lovely mix of red fruits, this also signature, with a touch of coffee and graphite from cuvées, though the overall balance compensates for shows a streak of chicken stock, dried straw and aging in 27% new French oak. Editors’ Choice. any perceived lack of optimal ripeness. All own- moderate acids. It spent 16 months in 20% new —P.G. rooted Wädenswil fruit, this offers flavors of wild French oak. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $48 strawberry, pine forest and flowers. It’s delicate, abv: 14.1% Price: $55 balanced and expressive, without quite reaching the Winderlea 2016 Winderlea Vineyard Pinot power of the other 2016s from this producer. —P.G. Knudsen 2016 Reserve Pinot Noir (Dundee 92 Noir (Dundee Hills). For full review see page abv: 12.9% Price: $62 91 Hills). This appears to be the first time a 10. Cellar Selection. reserve has been issued, and it’s been given almost abv: 13% Price: $60 Brigadoon 2016 Taproot Pinot Noir (Willa- double the new French oak compared to the regular 91 mette Valley). The winery’s Taproot cuvée release. Other than that, there’s perceptibly more Alexana 2016 Crawford Beck Vineyard Pinot sees extra time in a higher percentage of new oak, 15 concentration, but overall not a lot to differentiate 91 Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). The fruit here seems months in one-third of the barrels. A dark seam of the two bottlings. —P.G. carved in rock—perhaps the volcanic soils speaking espresso, graphite and smoke infuses the firm core abv: 14.1% Price: $70 through the grapes. The cranberry, raspberry and of black-cherry fruit. It’s a fairly potent yet well- tart cherry flavors remain firm and tangy. Then, in balanced wine that should be enjoyed over the next La Crema 2016 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). the glass and on the palate, the wine softens up a five years. —P.G. 91 For full review see page 12. Editors’ Choice. bit as it rolls into a smooth lightly chocolatey finish. abv: 13.5% Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $65 Brooks 2015 Rose-Weber Pinot Noir (Eola- Lavinea 2016 Tualatin Estate Vineyard Pinot 91 Amity Hills). Though the listed alcohol tops 91 Noir (Willamette Valley). This 44-year-old Alexana 2016 Zena Crown Vineyard Pinot 14%, this comes across as a delicate wine, with vineyard was picked early, keeping finished alcohol 91 Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Well balanced and aromatics of rose petals and lemon zest leading to well below last year’s bottling. Clean Bing cherry complex, this smoothly integrates strawberry and light strawberry fruit. As it breathes open it gathers fruit with a lovely seam of mocha washing over and cherry fruit with highlights of lemon and orange. strength, and the finish shows extra concentration

WINEMAG.COM | 99

BUYINGGUIDE through the palate makes this especially inviting for plums and a hint of maraschino cherries. Some time acidity. The tannins are polished and compact. Drink near-term drinking. —P.G. in barrel brings up light notes of milk chocolate. It’s this after 2020. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $65 quite tasty and ready for immediate enjoyment. abv: 13.9% Price: $65 —P.G. Moffett 2016 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). abv: 14% Price: $50 The Eyrie Vineyards 2016 Pinot Noir (Willa­ 91 Sourced from the Bieze vineyard, which is 91 mette Valley). This aromatic wine mixes next to the outstanding Seven Springs site, this all- Saffron Fields Vineyard 2016 Pinot Noir hints of thimbleberries with a light whiff of com- Pommard selection brings mulberry and strawberry 91 (Willamette­ Valley). Previously this blend post. The flavors follow in line, with wild raspberry fruit into focus, right on the edge of jammy. It was was labeled Spectrum, but in the current vintage fruit and a bit of mocha. It’s firmly anchored in fermented with 40% whole clusters, and aged in it’s the Willamette Valley AVA and with pricing that svelte ripe tannins, and just a touch of chocolate. 50% new French oak, adding a kiss of dark choco- makes it easy to find among the winery’s somewhat As with virtually all Eyrie Pinots, this should age late to the finish. —P.G. confusing labeling. It’s a fine value, mixing purple nicely for a decade at least. Drink now to 2030. Cel- abv: 14.2% Price: $55 fruits such as blueberry jam, with spice-box high- lar Selection. —P.G. lights, barrel toast and coffee grounds. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $38 Moffett 2016 Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). abv: 14.1% Price: $40 91 Trent Moffett moved his California winery to Willamette Valley Vineyards 2016 O’Brien Oregon in 2014, to focus principally on Pinot Noir. Scott Paul 2016 Azana Pinot Noir (Chehalem 91 ­Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). This is only the Working with consulting winemaker Drew Voit, he 91 Mountains). Scott Paul’s Azana is an elegant third time an O’Brien reserve has been produced in has released four single-vineyard examples from concise wine, with well-defined raspberry and the past decade (2008, 2012 and now 2016). It’s all 2016, each nicely balanced and displaying a sophis- cherry fruit. The supporting acids are in good bal- Pommard fruit, given time in 40% new French oak. ticated hand at the helm. Coffee, cherry and toast ance, and there’s a clean minerality with a hint of Concentrated puree of raspberry, ripe black cherry combine here, in a polished effort using fruit from sea shell. The finish trails out with suggestions of and sweet baking spices compound. The finish the Monk’s Gate vineyard. Given 10 months in 30% lemon rind and grapefruit. —P.G. brings toasted coconut, cola and mocha-cream high- new French oak, it’s young and sassy and delicious abv: 13.3% Price: $60 lights. Drink this now and through the early 2020s. already. —P.G. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $50 Scott Paul 2016 Ribbon Ridge Vineyard Pinot abv: 14% Price: $100 91 Noir (Ribbon Ridge). This remains astringent, Moffett 2016 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). with opening flavors of black tea and black olive, Winderlea 2016 Maresh Vineyard Pinot Noir 91 The most affordable Pinot Noir in Moffett’s ahead of rather delicate red-berry fruit. It opens 91 (Dundee Hills). An historic vineyard, origi- lineup, this blends fruit from three of the winery’s slowly with ample breathing, unwinding a bit and nally planted in 1970, provided these grapes. This single-vineyard selections, and sees 25% new broadening the fruit. Give this another year in the is lightly spicy, with a flavorful mix of blood orange, French oak. Plum and cherry fruit, lightly dappled bottle and drink from 2020 on. —P.G. rhubarb, strawberry and a hint of butter. It spent 10 with Italian herbs, shows just a bare hint of cherry abv: 13.3% Price: $60 months in one-quarter new French oak. —P.G. tomato. It’s a quite tasty wine already, and should abv: 13.5% Price: $48 drink nicely into the early 2020s. —P.G. Sineann 2017 Pinot Noir (Oregon). Crafted abv: 13.4% Price: $35 91 from a mix of barrels that were originally part Winderlea 2016 Meredith Mitchell Vineyard of the winery’s single-vineyard program, this lightly 91 ­Pinot Noir (McMinnville). The natural auster- Nicolas-Jay 2016 Momtazi Pinot Noir (McMinn­ gamy wine shows tangy cranberry and pie cherries, ity of wines from this AVA is on display here, with 91 ville). The vineyard’s biodynamic farming along with a whiff of the tack room. Dried herbs dot mineral-backed bare-boned red-fruit flavors seem- adds interesting earthy, peat moss highlights to the finish, leading into tannins that resolve into ingly set in a stark landscape, at least at first taste. the rich core of black-cherry fruit. There are gen- dried tea-leaf flavors.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. But what is gained is precision: a knife-edge cut tle hints of lime water and cola as the wine moves abv: 13.4% Price: $30 throughline tapers into a biodynamic finish with gracefully into a medium-bodied finish. —P.G. delicate details of compost and barrel toast. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $90 Sokol Blosser 2016 Twelve Row Block Pinot abv: 14.1% Price: $48 91 Noir (Dundee Hills). In this vintage this selec- Nicolas-Jay 2016 Nysa Pinot Noir (Dundee tion is a big full-bodied wine, with cherry fruit Winderlea 2016 Weber Vineyard Pinot Noir 91 Hills). A glass of this young wine is like a hike accented with scents and flavors of cut tobacco, 91 (Dundee Hills). This old-vine Pommard clone up a mountain trail, starting with brambly, wild clove and cola. The grapes are the so-called Mar- wine, from a site previously known as the Ana vine- berries, and leading through underbrush and Medi- tini clone, harking back to an older California-influ- yard, brings ripe cherry and zesty raspberry fruit, terranean herbs. It thins out gracefully into sugges- enced style of bold fruity Pinot Noir. —P.G. with a finishing lick of green tomato. It’s juicy, clean tions of upland grasses, underscored with a layer of abv: 13.5% Price: $65 and fresh, and the influence of 30% new French oak basalt. —P.G. remains subdued. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $90 Sylvanus 2016 Sylvanus Estate Pinot Noir abv: 14% Price: $60 91 (Yamhill-Carlton). A ripe supple wine, more Owen Roe 2016 Clandeboye Pinot Noir (Willa- approachable at this time than its excellent com- Andrew Rich 2015 Eola Pinot Noir (Willa- 91 mette Valley). This wine gets a special label panion “The Cipher”. Plum and cherry fruit car- 90 mette Valley). Presumably a single-vineyard but no vineyard designation in 2016. The flavors ries a slightly salty note. Aging in one-quarter new (unnamed) selection, this is a supple wine with a are a mélange of cranberry, strawberry and cherry, French oak adds a whiff of chocolate and the finish- lush core of purple berry fruits. Beyond that it offers but the early impression is that they remain a bit ing acidity brings a lick of citrus. —P.G. some astringent tannins, and a touch of the earthi- diffuse. The wine has a pleasing texture, and solid abv: 13.9% Price: $50 ness characteristic of the AVA. —P.G. flavors, but misses the complexity of its companion abv: 14.2% Price: $45 2016 Owen Roe Pinots. —P.G. Sylvanus 2016 Sylvanus Estate The Cipher abv: 14.1% Price: $85 91 Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). This tight tannic Archery Summit 2016 Whole Cluster Cuvée multi-clone blend is currently in a compact youthful 90 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Forward and R. Stuart & Co. 2016 Daffodil Hill Pinot Noir phase. Tart cranberry and raspberry fruit expresses bright flavors emphasize cranberry and black 91 (Eola-Amity Hills). A supple smoothly inte- the young vineyard perfectly, buoyed with ample ­cherry, along with earth and stem and skin flavors grated wine, this bursts forth with red berries, blue from the whole-cluster fermentation. Native (wild)

100 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 yeasts were also used. A bit more bottle age may Chehalem 2016 Ridgecrest Vineyards Old R. Stuart & Co. 2016 Vignette Pinot Noir ­elevate the score. —P.G. 90 Vines Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Now 90 (Willamette Valley). Rob Stuart’s most abv: 13.6% Price: $85 ­labeled Old Vines, this outperforms the reserve affordable Pinot opens with toasty, chocolatey aro- from the same vineyard, with lovely density and mas that lead into pretty fruit flavors of berry and Björnson 2015 Magnus Pinot Noir (Eola- texture. Black fruits come wrapped in barrel flavors cherry. It’s balanced throughout, medium bodied, 90 Amity Hills). Among a host of the winery’s of espresso and char. The tannins are granular but and quite pleasurable. —P.G. Pinots that are not easily differentiated, the Mag- polished, and the wine lingers gracefully through a abv: 14.4% Price: $35 nus may be the ripest by a thin margin. Blackberry, satisfying finish. —P.G. black cherry and cola flavors mix nicely, with a abv: 14.3% Price: $50 River’s Edge 2015 Black Oak Vineyard Pinot touch of sweet barrel spices adding to the pleasure. 90 Noir (Elkton Oregon). It’s a bit puzzling how —P.G. Dion 2016 Winemaker’s Reserve Pinot Noir such ripeness and high alcohol can be achieved in abv: 14.2% Price: $60 90 (Chehalem Mountains). Chewy and tannic, this cool climate AVA, but it’s a house signature this young wine is dense and a bit stiff. Black fruits, across the entire portfolio. This old-vine fruit brings Brigadoon 2016 Lylee Pinot Noir (Willa- espresso and cacao combine to accent the dark fla- strawberry and cherry flavors with brambly herbs. 90 mette Valley). This estate-grown brightly vors. It spent 18 months in half new French oak, and The tannins are firm and aging in 50% new French fruity wine frames its raspberry and cherry fruit should continue to develop nicely over the next few oak has added flavors of toasted hazelnuts. The high with a light (16%) dose of new French oak. The tan- years. —P.G. alcohol gives it a bit of a burn in the finish. —P.G. nins are particularly well managed, firm and ripe, abv: 14.3% Price: $45 abv: 15.6% Price: $28 and finishing with a touch of roasted coffee. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $23 Holmes Gap 2015 Sage Hen Pinot Noir Ruby 2016 Steve’s Reserve Pinot Noir (Che- 90 (Willamette­ Valley). This grower bottling 90 halem Mountains). Brambly berry fruit Broadley 2016 Estate Pinot Noir (Willa- was made by the talented Drew Voit. Broad flavors with old-vine texture and detail might fool you into 90 mette Valley). Stiff and a bit steely at first, of strawberries and pie cherries abound, with a thinking you’ve stumbled upon a fairly light Lodi this mixes briary berry-fruit flavors with balanced slightly biting finish. The color already hints at a Zinfandel. There’s a light streak of cola and gently tannins that add a suggestion of tea leaves to the sunset shade, suggesting that this is ready to drink citrusy acids. Enjoy it for its subtleties. —P.G. finish. As with all of Morgan Broadley’s Pinots, it’s and at or near its best. All Pommard grapes, it was abv: 13.5% Price: $60 well balanced, seamlessly smooth, and quite readily aged in 40% new French oak. —P.G. drinkable. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $40 Saffron Fields Vineyard 2016 Heritage abv: 13.8% Price: $35 90 Clones Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). Pom- Keeler 2016 Majestic White Oaks Pinot Noir mard and Wädenswil are the clones, and the wine Brooks 2015 Toluca Lane Pinot Noir (Eola- 90 (Eola-Amity Hills). This biodynamic estate- spent 17 months in 40% new French oak, trimmed 90 Amity Hills). Sweet cherry fruit grabs hold grown three-clone blend spent two years in mostly down from the previous vintage. It’s a rich ripe mix of of your palate from the get-go and hangs on delight- neutral French oak. Black-cherry, cola and a burst berries and plums, with ample toast, chocolate and fully, adding accents of cut tobacco and chocolate. of black-coffee flavors evolve into a lightly toasty caramel woven through the full-bodied finish. —P.G. This instantly appealing Pinot should be enjoyed wine with stiff chewy tannins. This should continue abv: 14.1% Price: $50 now through the early 2020s. —P.G. to improve throughout the first half of the 2020s. abv: 14.4% Price: $48 —P.G. Willamette Valley Vineyards 2016 Bernau abv: 13.5% Price: $55 90 Block Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For Carabella 2016 Estate Pinot Noir (Chehalem full review see page 16. 90 Mountains). Young and still wrapped up King Estate 2015 Domaine Pinot Noir (Willa­ abv: 14.1% Price: $65 tight, this clonal blend shows tart fruit flavors of 90 mette Valley). For full review see page 15. marionberry and sour plum. Aging in one-third new abv: 13% Price: $70 Willamette Valley Vineyards 2016 Hannah French oak for 16 months adds a hint of coffee, and 90 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Hannah the terroir-based flavors of the region contribute a Maison L’Envoyé 2016 The Attaché Pinot is a block selection from the upper portion of the hint of iron. Drink after 2020. —P.G. 90 Noir (Willamette Valley). Destemmed whole T­ualatin estate vineyard. It’s sleek and restrained, abv: 13.8% Price: $40 berries were fermented in 35% new French oak. less ripe than the 2015, but exhibiting balanced fla- The wine is not too oaky, but firm with ripe tannins vors of brambly berry. The tannins are astringent, Carabella 2016 Inchinnan Pinot Noir (Che- and tangy berry and pomegranate fruit. There are with the trailing flavor of Earl Grey tea. —P.G. 90 halem Mountains). The winery’s reserve- notes of dark chocolate and underlying minerality. abv: 13.7% Price: $55 level Pinot spends 18 months in 50% new French —P.G. oak. The fruit leans toward black cherry, with a abv: 13.5% Price: $40 Winderlea 2016 Dundee Hills Vineyards slightly roasted quality. The aging in new barrels 90 ­Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). An homage to the adds a warm smooth mocha flavor, and the acidity Merriman 2015 Estate Pinot Noir (Yamhill- vineyards that helped to pioneer the Willamette closes with a touch of citrus. —P.G. 90 Carlton). Tartly acidic raspberries carry a Valley, this is not a big wine, but nicely layered abv: 13.8% Price: $60 hint of gun metal. It’s young and still a bit astrin- and interesting. Cranberry, pomegranate and rasp- gent, with an interesting finish that unwinds with berry fruit are buoyed with zesty acids that suggest Chapter 24 2016 The Flood Pinot Noir suggestions of green herbs, black olive and coffee. blood orange. This is a wine that is still hiding the 90 (Willamette Valley). The name references —P.G. influence of the new French oak in which it spent sedimentary soils, a companion to the volcani- abv: 13.2% Price: $50 10 months. The impression in general is that all of cally inclined Fire Pinot. A burst of strawberry and Winderlea’s 2016s will benefit from another year or blackberry introduces a flavorful wine with a broad R. Stuart & Co. 2016 Autograph Pinot Noir two of bottle age. —P.G. streak of cola. The leesy texture and underlying 90 (Willamette Valley). This edition of Rob abv: 13.2% Price: $38 minerality add interest to the finish, which leaves Stuart’s Autograph is spicy with a ginger-cookie a touch of lemon skin lingering on the palate. —P.G. character, anchored in brambly berry and black- Alchemist 2016 Pinot Noir (Willamette abv: 13.5% Price: $61 cherry fruit. It’s open and tasty, with a soft, easy 89 Valley).­ Not quite as ripe nor as smooth as finish. —P.G. the 2015, this mixes tangy raspberries with sharp abv: 14.5% Price: $60 acidity. There’s a hint of green to the tannins, and

WINEMAG.COM | 101

BUYINGGUIDE a backdrop of underbrush against the clean well- easy-drinking style with toasty flavors of red fruits. permit number, this barrel selection blends clones to defined fruit. —P.G. The finish brings out the tannins, still a bit rough show a mix of tart red fruits, backed with acids that abv: 13.9% Price: $30 and showing a touch of bitterness, but with good taste of grapefruit. It finishes with earthy tannins, a length and texture. The best drinking window may reflection of the AVAs characteristic terroir. —P.G. Amity 2016 Pinot Noir (Willamette ­Valley). start around 2020. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $38 89 A broad swatch of strawberry fruit coats abv: 13.6% Price: $38 the palate, then comes into focus with peppery Björnson 2015 Reserve Pinot Noir (Eola-­ highlights. Aged 11 months in French oak, this Panache Cellars 2016 One Heart Vineyard 88 Amity Hills). Though it bears a reserve shows more fruit than toast, and is already drinking 89 ­Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Excellent designation, this is a light simple wine, with black nicely. —P.G. fruit brings rich blackberry and black-cherry flavors currant and a dash of espresso. Some barrel time abv: 13% Price: $28 front and center. There’s a swath of cola and lighter has lent a seam of baking chocolate to the finishing notes of brown sugar and cut tobacco. It’s full bod- tannins. —P.G. Cardwell Hill 2015 Estate Bottled Reserve ied and finishes with plenty of punch, especially for abv: 14.2% Price: $35 89 ­Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Aromatic a wine in this price range. —P.G. and quite pretty, this four clone blend spent 21 abv: 14.4% Price: $29 Canned Oregon NV Oregon Red Pinot Noir months in French oak barrels. It’s restrained for a 88 (Oregon). The newest addition to Canned reserve (and less expensive than most) but does not River’s Edge 2015 Elkton Vineyard Pinot Noir Oregon’s convenient portfolio is a juicy, fresh and skimp on flavor. Citrus highlights frame strawberry 89 (Elkton Oregon). The winery produces two perfectly sound example of the state’s signature and blueberry fruit, with just a hint of barrel. —P.G. Pinots from estate vineyards planted in the 1970s. grape. Raspberries dominate, with firm tannins, no abv: 13.9% Price: $28 This is aged 10 months in half new French oak, and metallic flavors, and none of the faux oak, added seems to be maturing quickly. Strawberry preserves, color and other “adjustments” that often plague Castle Rock 2017 Pinot Noir (Willamette vanilla cream and a dash of bitter herbs are in play, cheap Pinots. The convenience of cans makes it 89 Valley).­ Right on the heels of the 2016 with the new oak somewhat restrained. The high even more special—easy to chill, easy to pack, easy comes this early release from 2017. It’s almost a alcohol gives it a bit of a burn in the finish. —P.G. to open and easy to recycle. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. twin—smooth, ripe and remarkable for the price. abv: 14.9% Price: $28 abv: 13.5% Price: $8/375 ml Flavorful berry and plum fruit with well-massaged notes of vanilla, tobacco and Bourbon combine to Scott Paul 2016 La Paulée Pinot Noir (Wil- Cardwell Hill 2015 Dijon Blocks Estate Bot- make this a most enjoyable everyday wine. That it’s 89 lamette Valley). The fruit seems thinner 88 tled Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Select true Willamette Valley Pinot Noir is even better. than usual in this vintage, and the impact of herbal blocks of Dijon 115 and 777 are blended here, yield- Best Buy. —P.G. components more evident. Some 40% was whole-­ ing a full-flavored broadly accessible wine, with a abv: 13.5% Price: $14 cluster fermented, bringing in flavors of earth and generous cherry and chocolate foundation. When stem, along with suggestions of ripe raspberries. first opened it’s smooth and supple, though retasted Chapter 24 2016 The Fire Pinot Noir (Willa- The wine will benefit from another year in bottle, on the second day it was cracking up, so it’s best 89 mette Valley). The name references volca- which may help to lengthen the finish. —P.G. consumed now and over the next couple of years. nic soils, though it’s more of a marketing distinc- abv: 13.7% Price: $39 —P.G. tion than one that shows up in the wine. Blueberry abv: 13.8% Price: $32 and blackberry fruit comes with a whiff of leather, Treos 2014 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). and the wine doesn’t seem to be completely knit 89 In past vintages Dave Jepson has made a Cardwell Hill 2015 Estate Bottled Pinot together as it finishes. Give it another year or two pair of Pinots but in 2014 he decided that a single 88 Noir (Willamette Valley). Here is a well- in bottle. —P.G. wine from the blend was his best option. This seems made estate-grown Willamette Valley Pinot Noir abv: 13.5% Price: $61 mature beyond its years, with a soft entry leading to at a price usually reserved for wines with the all-­ flavors of spice-cake plums and raisins. Highlights encompassing “Oregon” appellation. Clean rasp- Chehalem 2015 Statement Pinot Noir of gingerbread and plum pudding come through, berry and black-cherry fruit is in place, along with 89 (Ribbon­ Ridge). Perhaps the ripest version leading to the suggestion that this is best enjoyed seams of cola and root beer. This is a great choice for to date of this reserve-level wine, sourced (along now through 2020. —P.G. everyday enjoyment. —P.G. with the reserve and old-vine bottlings) from the abv: 14.5% Price: $39 abv: 13.9% Price: $24 Ridgecrest vineyard, this shows concentrated dark berry and cherry fruit, with full-bodied roundly Winderlea 2016 Murto Vineyard Pinot Noir Carlton Cellars 2017 Seven Devils Pinot Noir appealing flavors. There’s just enough acid to keep it 89 (Dundee Hills). This young wine intrigues 88 (Willamette Valley). Firmly tannic, this afloat as it wraps itself in a chocolatey finish. —P.G. with texture and depth, adding detail to the brisk leans toward a more herbal, earthy side of Pinot abv: 14.8% Price: $99 raspberry fruit. There’s an herbal note throughout, Noir. Its red fruits have a pleasing touch of barrel­ and it lacks the richness of the previous vintage. spice, and it’s priced for everyday enjoyment, or Dion 2016 Pinot Noir (Chehalem Moun- An extra year or two of bottle age is recommended. it would make a fine by-the-glass pour. 89 tains). Firm and tightly threaded with stem —P.G. —P.G. and skin flavors, this opens slowly to reveal just- abv: 14.5% Price: $48 abv: 13.6% Price: $25 ripe black fruits and dark seams of chocolate and espresso. It was aged 10 months in 30% new oak, Apolloni 2016 L Cuvée Pinot Noir (Willa- Chehalem 2016 Reserve Pinot Noir (Ribbon and would best be cellared another year or two, or 88 mette Valley). A surefire palate pleaser, 88 Ridge). Nicely detailed, this is a pleasing decanted several hours before drinking. —P.G. this is toasty and forward, saturating the palate mix of citrus, berry and barrel flavors, that gently abv: 13.5% Price: $30 with creamy latte flavors of mocha and vanilla. spread across the midpalate. It lacks the hoped-for The black-cherry fruit is there but definitely in the concentration as it fades into a lightly herbal finish. Earth Song 2016 Pinot Noir (Southern background, and the finish brings notes of roasted —P.G. 89 Oregon).­ For full review see page 16. peanuts. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $70 abv: 13.5% Price: $28 abv: 13.5% Price: $26 Et Fille 2015 Gabriella Pinot Noir (Willa- Keeler 2016 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). At Björnson 2015 #21003 Pinot Noir (Eola-­ 88 mette Valley). A pleasant easy-drinking 89 first this seems quite soft and smooth—an 88 Amity Hills). Named to honor the winery’s wine, it’s lightly fruited with tart red berries. A hint

102 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 of chocolate adorns the finish. Though fresh and Ruby 2016 Winemaker’s Reserve Pinot Noir modest tannins. Nothing wrong with it at this price, clean, it verges on the generic. —P.G. 88 (Chehalem Mountains). Though showing but it borders on generic. —P.G. abv: 12.8% Price: $60 a bit more concentration than most of the win- abv: 13.5% Price: $19 ery’s 2016s, this still lacks the flesh hoped for in Maison L’Envoyé 2016 Two Messengers a ­reserve-level wine. It’s subtle and herbal, well Erath 2016 Leland Pinot Noir (Willamette 88 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Tight and structured with red fruits and sappy acids. Drink 87 Valley). Compared with Erath’s inexpensive, tannic, this sits on the wild, herbal side of the line. now through the early 2020s. —P.G. mass-produced Oregon Pinot, this limited-produc- Tart berry and pomegranate fruit is followed with abv: 13.5% Price: $60 tion cuvée seems sweet, as if dusted with powdered tannins that still bear a touch of green character. sugar. It’s made in a forward, fruity style, and offers The finish brings green-tea and bitter coffee notes. Spindrift Cellars 2016 Pinot Noir (Willamette no challenges, but that grapey sweetness may ham- But overall, it’s a sturdy wine that should handle 88 Valley). A light, bright and pretty wine, this per its food-matching possibilities. —P.G. heartier meat dishes. —P.G. offers delicate flavors of raspberries, backed with abv: 13.5% Price: $50 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 bright acidity. There’s good push through the mid- palate into a gentle finish with a hint of chicken Erath 2016 Willakia Vineyard Pinot Noir Merriman 2015 Cummins Road Pinot Noir stock. —P.G. 87 (Eola-Amity­ Hills). A strong, sweet, candied 88 (Yamhill-Carlton). A tart herbal wine, this abv: 14.1% Price: $22 lollipop flavor dominates here. The cheery cherry grips the palate with flavors of wild berry, iron fil- flavors have the sort of appeal that broadly popu- ings and black licorice. All estate fruit, it aged 12 Winter’s Hill 2016 Block 10 Pinot Noir lar, inexpensive California Pinots display, but as a months in 20% new French oak. —P.G. 88 (Dundee Hills). Tangy berry and sassafras single-vineyard Oregon selection this falls wide of abv: 13.2% Price: $25 flavors combine in a lightweight effort which does the mark. —P.G. not demonstrate the depth and power of most abv: 13% Price: $60 Northwest Ridge 2016 8 Barrel Whole ­comparably priced Dundee Hills Pinots. It’s all 88 ­Cluster Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Pommard clone, with a finishing hint of mushroom. Et Fille 2014 Deux Vert Vineyard Pinot Noir Sharply focused flavors bring cranberry and cherry —P.G. 87 (Yamhill-Carlton). This is a light tart deli- fruit front and center. There’s a stiffening frame of abv: 13.6% Price: $49 cate wine, with hints of raspberry and lemon. It’s black licorice, suggesting some time in new wood. a clean, rather simple wine that slips away quickly. The wine seems to sit on the palate without any fur- Winter’s Hill 2016 Block 9 Pommard Pinot —P.G. ther development, and then just stops. A bit more 88 Noir (Dundee Hills). All Pommard clone, this abv: 12.2% Price: $48 bottle age is recommended; drink after 2020. —P.G. is a pleasant wine, with crunchy blackberry fruit, a abv: 13.7% Price: $24 whiff of mint, and tannins that finish with a taste Eugene Wine Cellars 2016 Reserve b2 Pinot of green tea. Overall, it’s light and insubstantial, 87 Noir (Willamette Valley). Front loaded with Pfeiffer 2015 Robin’s Romance Blue Dot but drinking perfectly well now and over the next flavors of cherry cola, this reserve seems to float 88 ­Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). couple of years. —P.G. along in a foamy sort of way—not literally foamy, ­Aging quickly and drinking well, this follows the abv: 13.8% Price: $49 but foamy in the sense that the flavors are almost winery’s usual course with up-front flavors empha- weightless. Drink over the next couple of years. —P.G. sizing baking spices and strawberry pastry. There’s Björnson 2015 Estate Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity abv: 13.5% Price: $30 even a suggestion of mocha coffee cake. The wine 87 Hills). Here the fruit is so lightly ripened that was aged a year in new French oak barrels. —P.G. salmonberries come to mind—a wild, thinly ripened Pfeiffer 2013 Blue Line Pinot Noir (Oregon). abv: 13.8% Price: $90 Northwest variety. Clean earth underlies the thin 87 Roundly fruity, with solid flavors of straw- fruit, turning the tannins slightly bitter. —P.G. berry pie, this wine is close to fully mature and Pfeiffer 2014 Blue Dot Reserve Pinot Noir abv: 14.2% Price: $29 should be consumed soon. Though the label indi- 88 (Oregon). Soft ripe flavors emphasize bak- cates the generic Oregon AVA, the fruit was estate- ing spices rather than fruit. This is appealing and Carabella 2016 Plowbuster Pinot Noir grown in the recently expanded southwestern por- ready to drink, though more of the lovely Pommard 87 (Oregon).­ Though the label simply indicates tion of the Willamette Valley. —P.G. clone and less of the sweet spice would add com- Oregon fruit, the winery confirms that it’s 100% abv: 13.5% Price: $40 plexity and balance. The label indicates the generic Willamette Valley. Tight and tannic, this brings Oregon AVA, but the fruit was estate-grown in the earthy characteristics front and center, and the Rain Dance 2016 Estate Pinot Noir (Chehalem recently expanded southwestern portion of the black fruits have a thinness to them. The tannins 87 Mountains). A tannic hard-edged wine, this ­Willamette Valley. —P.G. are chewy, with a touch of dark chocolate. —P.G. shows some potential for future power, perhaps as abv: 13.5% Price: $60 abv: 13.7% Price: $20 the vines continue to mature. The black-cherry fruit is accompanied by bitter stem and tannin flavors, Pfeiffer 2012 Epic Blue Dot Reserve Pinot Drum Roll 2016 Pinot Renoir Pinot Noir along with notes of earth and espresso. —P.G. 88 Noir (Willamette Valley). Strawberry jam 87 (Oregon).­ Despite the home printer label abv: 14.1% Price: $40 comes out in a wine that has moved into mature and punny name, this is a decent effort with sub- secondary fruit flavors. The tannins are peppery stantial, honest, true-to-variety flavors. It’s tight Ruby 2016 Estate Blend Pinot Noir (Che- and carry a touch of bitter espresso. This should be and spicy, with cranberry fruit and tannins that 87 halem Mountains). The vines date back to consumed by the end of this decade. —P.G. leave an impression of pekoe tea. There’s no sign the 1970s, but in this vintage the fruit seems less abv: 13.5% Price: $73 of the “amendments” some wineries use to beef up than optimally ripened. Thin strawberry flavors cheap Pinot Noir—just clean, straightforward juice. along with dried grassy herbal components are Ruby 2016 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). —P.G. there, but after that it thins out and fades. —P.G. 88 Like a stiff shot of cranberry-raspberry abv: 13.8% Price: $23 abv: 13.3% Price: $45 juice, this young wine remains tart and tightly focused throughout the palate. It’s stylish and fresh, Erath 2016 Pinot Noir (Oregon). This is a Ruby 2016 Laurelwood Blend Pinot Noir (Che- with plenty of youthful energy. Give it another year 87 ­solid example of mass-produced Oregon 87 halem Mountains). The name references a or two to round out the flavors. —P.G. ­Pinot, with purple-berry fruits, tartaric acid and type of soil. There’s tangy raspberry fruit, along with abv: 13.5% Price: $25

WINEMAG.COM | 103

BUYINGGUIDE flavors of wet straw rather than green herb. It seems option here is aggressive aeration to help smooth were there appeared dull and sour, with weedy fruit. to lack a bit of stuffing, and quickly fades out. —P.G. them over. —P.G. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $36 abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 14.4% Price: $32

Underwood 2017 Pinot Noir (Oregon). Pro- Winter’s Hill 2016 Watershed Pinot Noir 87 duction of this value Pinot has almost tripled 85 (Dundee Hills). This is a light watery wine SYRAH in the past few years, but for the price the quality with diluted raspberry fruit and little else. Some remains quite high. Principally sourced from the suggestions of bouillon come out in the quick finish. Quady North 2014 Fernandes Vineyard Syrah Umpqua Valley AVA, it’s a spicy wine with flavors There’s not much here. —P.G. 92 (Applegate Valley). The winery excels at of cranberry, blood orange and underbrush. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Syrah, with a style distinct from elsewhere on the abv: 13% Price: $14 West Coast. Complex aromatics mix cured meat, Winter’s Hill 2015 Cuvée du Vigneron Pinot brambly berry and chocolate. In the mouth, those Winderlea 2016 Winderlea Imprint Pinot Noir 85 Noir (Dundee Hills). There is little to differ- flavors combine seamlessly, with just the right 87 (Dundee Hills). This cuvée, from estate- entiate this winemaker’s selection from the Water- touch of lightly bitter phenolics. It’s a big and fla- grown fruit, undergoes 100% whole-cluster fer- shed bottling at half the price. Tart thin strawberry vorful wine within a somewhat austere frame, but mentation using natural yeast, and spends 17 fruit and a mouthfeel that seems to still have some give it some breathing room and it will dazzle. —P.G. months in 20% new French oak. In this vintage, it trapped CO2 are all that there is. Two bottles tasted abv: 14% Price: $32 is not quite optimally ripe, showing dill, astringent with similar results. —P.G. tannins, and tart berry flavors. The barrel influence, abv: 13.5% Price: $49 Cowhorn 2014 Reserve Syrah (Applegate at least for now, is immaterial. —P.G. 91 Valley).­ Ripe blueberry and blackberry fruit, abv: 12% Price: $45 Long Road 2015 Roncali Vineyard Pinot Noir with ample acidity, anchors this reserve. With just 84 (Willamette Valley). This Willamette valley a hint of the natural funky character that the bet- Winter’s Hill 2016 Block 10 Whole Cluster wine was produced by a Washington winery way out ter express, this high-acid example will need 87 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). A light vintage on the Olympic Peninsula. It touches on wild berry time and attention, as in several hours of decanting across the board for the winery’s Pinots, this all- and apple flavors, but just barely. The fruit is so thin prior to drinking. —P.G. Pommard cuvée surrounds dilute raspberry fruit that the wine shows little or no varietal character. abv: 13.4% Price: $75 with stem and skin flavors of green herb, tomato —P.G. leaf and bark. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $28 Cowhorn 2014 Sentience Syrah (Applegate abv: 13.7% Price: $49 91 Valley). Among Cowhorn’s several differ- Schmidt 2015 Pinot Noir (Applegate Valley). ent Syrahs, this winemaker selection fits squarely Rain Dance 2016 Nicholas Vineyard Pinot 84 Dark in the glass, and dark in flavors, this in the center in terms of concentration and power. 86 Noir (Chehalem Mountains). Tannic from shows more charred wood and burnt coffee than Dense fig and coffee-liqueur flavors combine, with start to finish, the wine pushes flavors of beetroot, fruit. It resembles a rough and tumble Zinfandel chocolate-covered cherries filling in the finish. The earth, stem and herb front and center. The slightly more than the named grape. —P.G. tannins remain a bit astringent, even though this bitter tannins dominate and keep the fruit flavors abv: 13.8% Price: $42 wine was released at almost four years of age. —P.G. well in the background. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $55 abv: 13.9% Price: $30 MALBEC Cowhorn 2014 8 Syrah (Applegate Valley). Rock Point 2017 Pinot Noir (Oregon). The 90 Give this one a bit of extra attention, and 86 aromatics have a burnt rubbery character, Troon 2016 Estate Cuvée Côt (Applegate let it unfold its complex mix of fig, chocolate, and suggesting that this wine, bottled under screwcap, 89 Valley).­ Côt is an alternate name for Mal- charred coffee beans. At first, it may seem that the needs aggressive decanting and aeration. Even so, it bec—a southern Oregon strength. This tasty wine astringent tannins override all else, but with air the remains tight and unyielding for hours, barely hint- mixes plum and wild-berry fruit with smoky toast wine opens up gracefully. It’s stylistically in tune ing at lightly plummy fruit. —P.G. from 18 months in barrel. It’s drinking well and with the better Syrahs from Canada’s Okanagan abv: 13.7% Price: $18 should go another three or four years. —P.G. valley. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $35 abv: 13.4% Price: $45 Chemistry 2017 Pinot Noir (Willamette 85 Valley).­ The flavors start out thin and Schmidt 2015 Malbec (Applegate Valley). Eugene Wine Cellars 2015 b2 Syrah (Willa­ weedy, with beetroot and earth, and continue into 87 Raspberry jam carries the fruit, with better 87 mette Valley). There is very little Syrah a tannic and astringent finish. The fruit is hard to balance than the winery’s other 2015 reds, which grown in the Willamette Valley, at least in part find. Give this a good decanting or better yet, aerate seem bitter and tannic in comparison. Here there’s because the grape shows itself more expressively it aggressively. —P.G. enough fruit to compensate for some initial rough- in other parts of Oregon, notably the Rogue Valley abv: 13.5% Price: $20 ness. The wine will reward aggressive aeration. and the Rocks District. This is a pleasant red, with —P.G. hints of varietal flavors of coffee grounds and light Grochau 2017 Commuter Cuvée Pinot Noir abv: 14.3% Price: $35 red fruits, but don’t look for the power of the state’s 85 (Willamette Valley). Though quite astrin- best Syrahs. —P.G. gent, this opens with moderately ripe, firm purple- Del Rio 2015 Malbec (Rogue Valley). Estate- abv: 13.5% Price: $30 fruit flavors. The stem and leaf flavors follow, and 86 grown, firm and compact, this leans toward the tannins are a bit rough. Best to pair this with barely ripened flavors of cherry tomato and thin Adega Northwest 2015 Firethorn Vineyard such fatty foods as burgers and pizza. —P.G. black cherry. There’s a touch of buttery barrel, along 86 Syrah (Columbia Valley). A rare wine com- abv: 13.3% Price: $20 with a gentle earthy character. —P.G. ing from the Oregon side of the Columbia Valley, its abv: 13.6% Price: $32 subdued aromas of spice, tire rubber and dried dark Kings Ridge 2017 Pinot Noir (Willamette fruit are followed by ripe raspberry and cherry fla- 85 Valley).­ The simple diluted cherry fruit can- Maragas 2015 Terrebonne Malbec (Oregon). vors and a cranberry-filled finish. It all seems a bit not overcome the earthy bitter tannins. The best 83 Reduced to the point of inscrutable, other overripe. —S.S. than scents of rubber tire, this wine stayed stub- abv: 15.2% Price: $30 bornly closed even after many hours. What flavors

104 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 Schmidt 2015 Syrah (Applegate Valley). blend is 55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon. Valley). This is a rare Columbia Valley appellated 85 Brambly berries quickly fall into a roughly —P.G. wine that comes from a vineyard on the Oregon tannic, tongue-thrashing wine with stemmy, charred abv: 14.1% Price: $52 side. Baking-spice, mocha, cherry and tire-rubber wood and coffee grounds the major flavors. —P.G. aromas are at the fore. Somewhat lighter-seeming abv: 13.8% Price: $40 Cathedral Ridge 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon- fruit flavors follow and paint around the edges. It 82 Merlot (Columbia Valley). This wine is a provides interest but doesn’t all work. —S.S. Cathedral Ridge 2015 Syrah (Columbia ­Valley). blend of equal parts of these two varieties. The aro- abv: 14.5% Price: $36 81 Aromas of hay, herb, licorice and citrus twist mas seem lightly volatile, along with notes of green lead to dried-out-seeming fruit flavors that fall flat. herb and cherry. Quite light fruit flavors follow. Maragas 2015 Tempranillo (Applegate The variety seems impossible to find. —S.S. —S.S. 85 Valley).­ This is a tight stiff wine, with scents abv: 13.7% Price: $34 abv: 14.2% Price: $30 and streaks of licorice, rubber and espresso. It was aged in one-quarter new oak for two years, which seems to have further roughed up the tannins. It’s RED BLENDS OTHER RED WINES astringent and dark, and not built for aging. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $34 Cowhorn 2015 Moonraker Grenache-Syrah Cowhorn 2015 Grenache 53 Grenache (Apple- 91 (Applegate Valley). For the first time since 92 gate Valley). As light in color as a Pinot Schmidt 2015 Merlot (Applegate Valley). 2011, Cowhorn offers a Grenache (55%) and Syrah Noir, this nonetheless delivers potent flavors of red 84 Generic flavors disguise any varietal fruit (40%) blend. A small amount of Tempranillo is and blue plum. There’s an almost foxy character to character with overwrought, rough, charred tannins. included. Loaded with baking spices and mixed blue the flavor, and a luscious finish loaded with sweet —P.G. fruits, this tasty wine finishes with a seam of dark tobacco and baking spices. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $35 chocolate and espresso. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $45 abv: 13.4% Price: $55 Schmidt 2015 Tempranillo (Applegate Failla 2016 Björnson Vineyard Gamay Noir 84 Valley).­ Tempranillo is a strength in this Troon 2016 Estate Cuvée Pyrénées Tannat- 91 (Eola-Amity Hills). The grape of Beaujolais region, but this rustic tannic woody wine does not 91 Malbec (Applegate Valley). This wine has should do quite well in Oregon, but has not really reflect that. Suggestions of black-cherry fruit are been renamed, but remains a reserve-level cofer- caught on. This striking example from Ehren Jor- buried in woody flavors of charred burnt coffee, ment of 62% Tannat and 38% Malbec. It’s concen- dan may help to change that. It was fermented with leading into a short bitter finish. —P.G. trated and fruit-powered, packed with blueberry native yeast, and 100% whole abv: 13.3% Price: $42 and blackberry goodness. A vein of chocolate and cluster fruit, yielding a bright spicy wine loaded some palate-sharpening acidity contribute further with cranberry and purple-plum flavors. The rivet- Panache Cellars 2015 Sangiovese (Rogue detail and depth. Drink now through the late 2020s. ing acidity keeps it lively across the palate, and it 83 Valley). Sourced from the Griffin Creek Cellar Selection. —P.G. should drink nicely over the next two or three years. vineyard, this wine seems to have been built upon abv: 13.5% Price: $60 —P.G. rather thin fruit flavors. Dilute, generic hints of red abv: 13.4% Price: $30 berry, along with herbal tomato leaf, are all but bur- Grizzly Peak 2014 Rogue Rouge (Rogue ied in a wash of vanilla. No information was pro- 88 Valley).­ Half Merlot, the other half an equal Evening Land 2017 Seven Springs Gamay vided, but often it’s overuse of oak chips that bring split between the Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc, 90 Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). The grape were put on such flavors. Drink up. —P.G. this is heavily scented with vanilla and cut tobacco. through whole-cluster carbonic maceration in con- abv: 13.4% Price: $22 The fruit is pretty and open, with flavors of tart crete, then aged in both neutral oak and stainless cherry. This is the current vintage, and should be steel, yielding a wine with bold cranberry fruit with consumed now. —P.G. a vein of iron. The tannins are polished but stiffen WASHINGTON abv: 14.1% Price: $30 the finish, with a thread of graphite. It’s still quite young, quite tart and bursting with flavor. —P.G. RIESLING Del Rio 2015 Claret (Rogue Valley). The abv: 12% Price: $35 85 ­Claret designation indicates a Bordeaux-style Charles & Charles 2017 Art Den Hoed Riesling blend. Here (as with the previous vintage), the mix is Troon 2016 Tannat (Applegate Valley). 89 (Yakima Valley). For full review see page 16. 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% each 90 ­Tannat can be aggressively tannic, but here abv: 12% Price: $15 Cab Franc and Malbec. There’s a hint of burnt rubber it’s been softened and smoothed, delivering a tasty that turns the finish astringent and bitter. Aggressive red wine with concentrated berry and chocolate fla- Chateau Ste. Michelle 2017 Riesling (Colum- aeration may mute that a bit. —P.G. vors. If you’re a fan of medium-weight , 89 bia Valley). Flower, lime leaf, slate, peach abv: 13.8% Price: $35 this would make a most interesting alternative. and citrus aromas are out front. Sleek, off-dry, lean- —P.G. ing sweeter fruit flavors follow. There’s a sense of Cathedral Ridge 2016 The Daughter Red Wine abv: 14% Price: $40 balance that heightens the appeal. It’s a whole lot of 83 (Columbia Valley). This wine is a blend of wine for the money. Best Buy. —S.S. 53% Mourvèdre, 35% Grenache and 12% Malbec. Merriman 2016 South River Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 11.5% Price: $9 The aromas bring notes of white pepper, cut red 87 gnon (Columbia Gorge). Sourced from 1985 apple, Band-Aid and ash, with the volatiles amped plantings on the Oregon side of the Columbia river, Chateau Ste. Michelle 2017 Dry Riesling up. Lighter-styled cranberry flavors follow that trail this is a light version of Cabernet, with gentle fla- 89 (Columbia Valley). The aromas pop, with toward the finish. It doesn’t all work. —S.S. vors of berry, underbrush and dried herbs. It’s bal- notes of rubbed lime leaf, citrus, white peach and abv: 14.2% Price: $58 anced and shows some interesting complexity, but cut green apple. Sleek, bone-dry, Nestea Lemon Iced should be consumed over the next four or five years. Tea flavors follow, with the finish sailing. This is Maragas 2012 M Red Merlot-Cabernet Sau- —P.G. always one of the best wine values on the shelf, and 83 vignon (Applegate Valley). The winery con- abv: 13.5% Price: $28 this vintage does not disappoint. Best Buy. —S.S. siders this a reserve, as it was aged in 45% new oak abv: 12.5% Price: $9 for five full years—not to good effect. It’s oaky and Adega Northwest 2015 Firethorn Vineyard totally dried out, with rough rustic tannins. The 86 Trillium Block Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia

WINEMAG.COM | 105

BUYINGGUIDE

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2017 Harvest Select Savage Grace 2017 Oak Ridge Vineyard 87 Sweet Riesling (Columbia Valley). The aro- CHARDONNAY 88 Orange Gewürztraminer (Columbia Gorge). mas seem subdued for the variety, with notes of This is one of the few orange wines coming out flower and peach. Medium-sweet stone fruit flavors Kerloo 2017 Celilo Vineyard Chardonnay of the state at present. The aromas enchant, with follow. Best Buy. —S.S. 89 (Columbia Gorge). All of the fruit for this notes of lychee, rose petal, orange rind and spice. abv: 10.5% Price: $9 wine comes from Block S1 at this vineyard. The aro- Bone-dry flavors follow, showing a touch of bitter- mas aren’t yet ready to reveal their charms, showing ness on the finish. —S.S. notes of talc, mineral, herb, lees and whole lemon. abv: 12.7% Price: $26 SAUVIGNON BLANC There is a sense of directness, balance, purity and length to the palate that is captivating. Citrus notes Vino 2016 Moscato (Washington). There’s Chateau Ste. Michelle 2017 Sauvignon Blanc linger on the finish. —S.S. 88 no question about the variety, with its out- 89 (Columbia Valley). Aromas of pink grape- abv: 13.6% Price: $NA rageously bright notes of lychee, flower, orange peel fruit, tropical fruit and herb lead to broad feeling, and spice. Spritzy, medium-sweet fruit flavors fol- ever so slight spritzy fruit flavors. A tart, lingering Sixto 2016 Uncovered Chardonnay (Wash- low, with plentiful Mandarin orange notes through- finish caps it off.Best Buy. —S.S. 89 ington). This wine is a blend of fruit from out. Have it as an aperitif. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 13% Price: $11 Frenchman Hills, Moxee and Roza Hills vineyards. abv: 8.5% Price: $12 Aged in 32% new French oak puncheons. Lemon Seven Hills 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia balm, wet rock, candlewax and spice aromas lead to Vino 2017 Evergreen Vineyard Pinot Grigio 89 Valley). Herb, pineapple, pink grapefruit, sleek but textured nectarine flavors that pique the 87 (Ancient Lakes). Vineyard-designated offer- licorice and clove aromas are at the fore. Taut fig interest. A lingering finish caps it off. —S.S. ings of this variety are an extreme rarity in the state. and tropical fruit flavors follow, with tart acidity abv: 14% Price: $35 Citrus, green apple, herb and wilted flower aromas keeping the interest high. —S.S. predominate. The palate is light in style, with a tex- abv: 13.2% Price: $20 Maryhill 2017 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). tured feel. Best Buy. —S.S. 87 Pleasing aromas of melon, spice and peach abv: 12.5% Price: $12 Mercer 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Horse Heaven lead to medium-bodied stone fruit flavors. Tart 88 Hills). Aromas of wet slate, kiwi, pineapple acidity backs it up. The alcohol pokes through at and herb are out front. Broad feeling tropical fruit times. —S.S. ROSÉ flavors follow and carry through the kiwi-filled abv: 14.4% Price: $16 finish, with mouthwatering acidity backing it up. Noviello 2017 Rosé of Syrah (Lake Chelan). There’s a lot to like. —S.S. Noviello 2016 French Creek Vineyard Char- 85 Orange with a slightly bricked color. Melon abv: 13.1% Price: $17 87 donnay (Yakima Valley). Aromas of butter, and herb aromas are out front. The palate is broad, lees and spice are followed by full-bodied, creamy with fat feeling fruit flavors that need more acidity fruit flavors, finishing warm. The heat holds it back. to stand them up. It comes off as quite warm. —S.S. VIOGNIER —S.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $18 abv: 14.3% Price: $28 Gramercy 2017 Viognier (Columbia Valley). 92 All of the fruit for this wine comes from Bayernmoor 2017 Chardonnay (Wahluke CABERNET SAUVIGNON Antoine Creek Vineyard, north of the Lake Chelan 85 Slope). This wine is a blend of fruit from appellation. Aromas of lemon balm, white peach Weinbau and Otis vineyards. The aromas offer notes Woodward Canyon 2015 Artist Series #24 and honeysuckle are followed by generous but of corn on the cob, kiwi and canned pineapple. The 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Washington). This wine still sleekly styled fruit flavors that show beautiful palate falls flat. —S.S. is a blend of fruit from Woodward Canyon Estate, depth, balance and tension. Lemony acidity height- abv: 13.8% Price: $29 Champoux, Sagemoor and Spring Creek vineyards. ens the interest. The winery’s best offering of this Despite seeing just 50% new oak, aromas of bak- variety to date. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. Gordon Estate 2017 Estate Chardonnay ing spice and vanilla are at the fore at present, in abv: 13.1% Price: $22 85 (Columbia Valley). Melon, yellow apple and front of notes of herb and cherry. The palate brings spice aromas are out front. Ripe peach flavors fol- a suave feel, with a lovely sense of texture, dipping K Vintners 2017 Art Den Hoed Viognier low, with a browned apple note on the finish. It’s in the middle before coming back together. The oak 90 (Yakima Valley). Fruit for this wine comes a straightforward, enjoyable offering of the variety. influence is intense right now. Give it time to settle from a vineyard at 1,300 feet of elevation—high for —S.S. in. Best after 2023.Cellar Selection. —S.S. the state. All aged in neutral French oak, the wine abv: 13.7% Price: $14 abv: 149% Price: $59 has aromas that bring notes of ripe peach, apri- cot and flower. Full-bodied, well-structured stone Maryhill 2017 Proprietor’s Reserve Tudor Owen Roe 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon fruit and creamsicle flavors follow. There’s much to 85 Hills Vineyard Chardonnay (Columbia Val- 89 (Yakima Valley). The aromas enchant, with enjoy. —S.S. ley). Aromas of almond skin and spice lead to sweet, notes of fresh herb, flower, blackberry and cherry, abv: 13.5% Price: $25 citrus-filled, full-bodied fruit flavors. It shows quite showing a lovely sense of purity and delineation. Far a bit of alcoholic warmth. —S.S. from a big bruiser, the palate brings a compelling Tamarack Cellars 2017 Viognier (Colum- abv: 14.5% Price: $29 sense of elegance and restraint, with cranberry fla- 86 bia Valley). Subdued aromas of peach and vors and firm tannins backing it up. —S.S. herb are followed by spritzy, full-bodied stone fruit abv: 14.1% Price: $42 flavors. The variety’s intensity and joy seem to be OTHER WHITE WINES missing —S.S. Kerloo 2016 Exclusive Release Red Willow abv: 13.4% Price: $20 DeLille 2017 Chaleur Blanc (Columbia Val- 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). This 94 ley). For full review see page 5. Cellar wine is 100% varietal, with a dash of fruit coming Selection. from Stone Tree Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope. abv: 13.8% Price: $35 The aromas are high toned, with notes of baking spice, anise and cherry. Compact, lighter styled

106 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 fruit flavors follow. It needs time to stretch its legs Grainy, slightly dry tannins provide support. It’s in raspberry gummy and herb. The flavors are quite to show its best. —S.S. an awkward place right now. —S.S. dilute, with the concentration lacking and the tan- abv: 13.1% Price: $57 abv: 14.1% Price: $72 nins gritty. —S.S. abv: NA Price: $25 Kerloo 2016 Reserve Release Bacchus Cab- Substance 2015 Vineyard Collection Jack’s 88 ernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Almost 87 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Castle Rock 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon all of this wine comes from the Old Block at this Valley). Fruit for this wine comes from the Rocks 84 (Columbia Valley). Black currant, tire rub- vineyard. The aromas are light and seem hard to District. The aromas draw you into the glass, with ber, green herb and mesquite aromas are followed tease out initially, later revealing notes of cherry, notes of black olive, raspberry, smoke, licorice, by fruit flavors that paint around the edges, missing tobacco and dried and fresh herb. On the palate, it’s high-toned savory herb, cherry, crushed chalk and in the middle. The variety seems hard to find. —S.S. elegant, with the flavors focused around the edges spice. Soft, light, savory fruit flavors follow with a abv: 13.5% Price: $12 and lighter in the middle. —S.S. cranberry-filled finish. —S.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $45 Cosentino 2016 Cigar Cabernet Sauvignon 83 (Columbia Valley). Cedar box and mesquite Seven Hills 2015 Clone 191 Summit View Tamarack Cellars 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon aromas are at the fore, with the cherry notes seem- 88 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla 87 (Columbia Valley). Aromas of plum, green ing subdued and dried out. Ripe, jammy, sweet fruit Valley). This is the first clonally labeled Cabernet herb, licorice, cigar box and baking spice lead to flavors follow. It doesn’t all work. —S.S. I am aware of in the state. Herb and flower aro- somewhat disjointed-seeming fruit flavors, with abv: 13.9% Price: $20 mas are out front and make an impression. Over a firm lick of dry tannins on the outer edges. It time, notes of dark cherry, anise and earth emerge. doesn’t all come together at present. —S.S. There’s a lovely sense of delicacy to the palate, abv: 14.4% Price: $35 CABERNET FRANC though the tannins seem dry, unresolved and gruff, with a touch of bitterness. Best after 2022. —S.S. Tamarack Cellars 2013 20th Anniversary Willow 2015 Boushey Vineyards Cabernet abv: 14.8% Price: $50 87 Emerald Release Cabernet Sauvignon 90 Franc (Yakima Valley). Aromas of raspberry (Columbia Valley). Dried out aromas of cherry, jam and dried herb lead to a palate that shows a daz- Seven Hills 2015 Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet anise, vanilla, baking spice and cola lead to a palate zling sense of purity, texture and deftness to the ripe 88 Sauvignon (Red Mountain). The aromas that shows more of the same. The fruit seems quite fruit flavors. An herbal streak runs throughout. It’s of licorice, herb, tire rubber, raspberry and cherry desiccated, with the tannins a bit jagged. It seems a very pretty interpretation of the variety. Editors’ bring a sense of delineation. The palate is plump in quite evolved for its age. —S.S. Choice. —S.S. the middle, less so around the edges. There are a lot abv: 14.5% Price: $100 abv: 14.5% Price: $28 of interesting parts, but they don’t fit together at present. —S.S. Adega Northwest 2015 Weinbau Vineyard Tamarack Cellars 2016 Cabernet Franc abv: 14.9% Price: $45 86 Block 10 Cabernet Sauvignon (Wahluke 89 (Columbia Valley). Light aromas of dried Slope). Comes from this esteemed vineyard on the herb, cherry, pencil lead, spice, rubber and vanilla Substance 2015 Vineyard Collection Cs Pow- Wahluke Slope. The aromas rise up, with notes of are followed by somewhat lighter-styled but still 88 erline Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla apple, dried cherry and baking spice, seeming a bit fresh, well-balanced fruit flavors. It brings a sense Walla Valley). This wine seems to teeter on the edge desiccated. Plentiful fruit flavors follow, with the of sophistication and elegance. —S.S. of ripeness, with aromas of green pepper, mint and tannins bringing a firm grip, needing some time to abv: 14.1% Price: $30 fresh chopped herb out in front of cherry. The com- loosen. —S.S. pact, somewhat lighter-styled, blackberry flavors abv: 14.6% Price: $36 Owen Roe 2016 Rosa Mystica Cabernet Franc need some time to spread out. —S.S. 88 (Yakima Valley). Cherry, baking spice and abv: 13.5% Price: $45 Adega Northwest 2015 Two Blondes Vine- green pepper aromas lead to ripe, juicy, compact 85 yard Block 7 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima cranberry and cherry flavors. It piques the interest, Substance 2015 Vineyard Collection Stoner- Valley). Aromas of overripe cherry, herb and fruit though doesn’t entirely come together. —S.S. 88 idge Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum- leather lead to dried-out-seeming fruit flavors abv: 14.1% Price: $28 bia Valley). The aromas are fruit forward, with backed by gritty tannins. It all seems quite desic- notes of raspberry and cherry along with cola, herb cated, with the heat of the vintage showing. —S.S. Owen Roe 2016 The Pearl Block Union Gap and spice accents, pushing the boundaries of ripe- abv: 14.4% Price: $36 88 Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Yakima Valley). ness. The palate can’t quite live up to that promise, Plum, dried herb and red apple aromas are out ­coming off as lighter in style with slightly grippy GFW 2016 Vinocluster Cabernet Sauvignon front, with plenty of graphite and spice accents fol- tannins out of the gate. Coffee notes linger on the 85 (Columbia Valley). Lighter aromas of dried lowing. The flavors are juicy and fresh, with a tart finish. —S.S. herb, licorice, vanilla and cherry are out front. cranberry finish and grainy tannins. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Light, tangy fruit flavors follow, with the tannins abv: 14.1% Price: $72 showing a bit of grit. —S.S. Owen Roe 2016 DuBrul Vineyard Cabernet abv: 14.2% Price: $24 Seven Hills 2016 Cabernet Franc (Walla 87 Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). The aromas 87 Walla Valley). Jalapeño, green pepper and seem hyper ripe, especially for this producer and Inconceivable 2014 After the Floods Caber- leafy herb aromas are at the fore, followed by notes site, with notes of cassis, blackberry and spice. Ripe 85 net Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). The aro- of graphite, cherry and spice. Dried-out, slightly fruit flavors follow, with dry-seeming tannins pro- mas offer varietal notes of dried and fresh herb, medicinal-seeming flavors follow. —S.S. viding support. It’s an odd mix. —S.S. along with whiffs of spice and cherry. The flavors abv: 14.8% Price: $35 abv: 14.1% Price: $72 are somewhat lighter in style, with the tannins hav- ing a grainy feel. —S.S. Adega Northwest 2015 Two Blondes Vine- Owen Roe 2016 Red Willow Vineyard Caber- abv: NA Price: $25 86 yard Block 8 Cabernet Franc (Yakima Val- 87 net Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). The aromas ley). The mocha, dried herb, tire rubber, hay and offer notes of fresh herb, cigar box, barrel spice and Mercer 2016 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon cherry aromas are brooding. The flavors are lighter dark cherry, seeming subdued out of the gate. Plen- 85 (Horse Heaven Hills). Lighter in color than tiful, somewhat lighter-styled cherry flavors follow. the norm for this variety. The aromas offer notes of

WINEMAG.COM | 107

BUYINGGUIDE styled, painting around the edges. The fruit doesn’t Gordon Estate 2015 Estate Merlot (Columbia K Vintners 2015 Powerline Syrah (Walla Walla seem to have fully ripened. —S.S. 85 Valley). Mortared savory herb, cherry and 91 Valley). Aromas of grilled asparagus, fire pit, abv: 14.3% Price: $28 spice aromas are at the fore. Broad cranberry fla- olive tapenade and hickory smoke are followed by vors follow, with a light grassy note on the finish. It pillowy soft savory flavors that glide on the finish, Savage Grace 2017 Two Blondes Vineyard comes off as green for the variety. Drink now. —S.S. with the tannins bringing a grainy feel, needing 86 Cabernet Franc (Yakima Valley). This young abv: 13.8% Price: $21 some time to smooth out. This young, cobblestone- release wine is light in color with an orange rim, strewn vineyard is quickly establishing itself as a offering notes of fresh tobacco, herb, orange peel SR 262 2016 Merlot (Columbia Valley). special site. —S.S. and green pepper. Quite smoky fruit flavors follow. 83 Raspberry, struck match, whole green pep- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 There are good things going on, but the smoke influ- per and spice aromas are paired with lighter-styled ence has a big impact. —S.S. fruit flavors. It seems washed out and green. —S.S. K Vintners 2015 The Beautiful Powerline Vine- abv: 12% Price: $32 abv: 13.9% Price: $15 91 yard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). This wine is co-fermented with 3% Viognier, with the fruit com- ing from the winery’s estate. Outrageous aromas of MALBEC SYRAH cigar box, freshly peeled orange, smoked meat, wet gravel, sea salt, black pepper, peat and flower are Seven Hills 2016 McClellan Estate Vineyard Elephant Seven 2016 Yellow Bird Vineyard followed by soft, light palate-coating but still deft 87 Malbec (Walla Walla Valley). The aromas 92 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). For full review fruit and savory flavors that sail into the distance. offer notes of dried cherry and licorice, with the see page 8. Editors’ Choice. This is an area to watch in the valley. —S.S. fruit seeming a bit desiccated. Ripe, full-bodied fla- abv: 14.7% Price: $37 abv: 14.5% Price: $60 vors follow. The fruit seems dried out, but it still provides enjoyment. —S.S. K Vintners 2015 Royal City Stoneridge Vine- K Vintners 2015 The Deal Sundance Vineyard abv: 14.8% Price: $35 92 yard Syrah (Washington). All of the fruit 91 Syrah (Wahluke Slope). Coming from a site for this wine comes from Stoneridge Vineyard on planted in 1997, the aromas are brooding but still Mercer 2016 Malbec (Columbia Valley). The the Royal Slope and was harvested at a scant 1.2 draw you into the glass, with notes of blackberry, 85 aromas are quite green, with notes of green tons per acre, then barrel aged in puncheons on dark plum, black raspberry, licorice, ash and whiffs pepper, dried tobacco and fresh green herb along lees for 26 months. The aromas pop, with notes of of dried orange peel and smoked meat. The palate with orange peel. Light, tangy fruit flavors follow, green olive, brown stem, licorice, fresh herb, flower, is deep and rich, packing a powerful punch with an with plentiful orange peel notes throughout. —S.S. tobacco and cherry. The palate is silky smooth and extended finish following, with Amaro-like bitters. abv: 13.9% Price: $20 detailed, with plentiful black fruit flavors on the The tannins bring a fair amount of astringency at finish. Firm tannins back it all up. It needs some present. Best after 2022. —S.S. time to fully come together. Best after 2022.Cellar abv: 14.5% Price: $40 MERLOT Selection. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $150 K Vintners 2015 The Hidden Northridge Vine- Substance 2015 Vineyard Collection Me 91 yard Syrah (Wahluke Slope). The aromas are 89 Northridge Vineyard Merlot (Wahluke Cairdeas 2017 Concrete Lawrence Vineyards reserved out of the gate, with notes of blackberry, Slope). Aromas of raspberry and cherry jam jump 91 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Generous aro- smoked meat, green herb and exotic spices all up from the glass. The palate brings a sense of deli- mas of raspberry, blueberry, hard candy, herb and wound up incredibly tightly. Over time, notes of cacy that delights, with chalky, slightly dry-feeling spice give way to compact, initially lightly spritzy, green olive, violet, orange peel and ash emerge. The tannins backing it up. There’s no doubt about the tightly wound plum flavors that bring an appealing palate is rich but supple. It shows a bit of astrin- warm vintage and appellation that it comes from, sense of purity and freshness. The sense of balance gency at present. Best after 2020. —S.S. with the ripeness dialed up. —S.S. only adds to the enjoyment. It would benefit from abv: 15% Price: $70 abv: 14.5% Price: $45 a bit of additional time in the bottle or some time in a decanter to open up, but it delivers. Editors’ Kerloo 2016 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Fruit for Seven Hills 2016 Seven Hills Vineyard Merlot Choice. —S.S. 91 this wine comes from Red Willow (52%) and 88 (Walla Walla Valley). The aromas are light abv: 14.4% Price: $42 Upland vineyards, with a dash of 5% Viognier cap- and a bit difficult to tease out initially, with notes of ping it off. The aromas are arresting, with notes of cedar box, green pepper, spice and raspberry. Light K Vintners 2015 Cattle King Upland Vineyard green olive, stem, parsley, smoked meat, black pep- but juicy fruit flavors follow, with the tannins giving 91 Syrah (Snipes Mountain). This is 100% whole per and fresh herb out front. The palate is sleek but a firm, slightly astringent squeeze. It intrigues, but cluster pressed, aged on skins for 43 days before compelling, along with plentiful smoked meat fla- the variety seems difficult to find. —S.S. being aged in half new and half neutral puncheons. vors and an extended finish.Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $45 Focused aromas of blackberry, black raspberry, abv: 13.5% Price: $25 clove pod, licorice, orange peel, smoked meat and Mercer 2016 Merlot (Horse Heaven Hills). herb lead to ripe, rich, lip-smacking fruit flavors K Vintners 2015 Phil Lane Syrah (Walla 87 Aromas of raspberry jam and spice are fol- that trail slightly on the finish. Its best days are in 90 Walla Valley). This vineyard is located at lowed by plump, juicy red fruit flavors. It delivers front of it. —S.S. the winery’s homestead property in Upper Mill appeal. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $70 Creek. Mortared green herb, grilled asparagus and abv: 14.1% Price: $20 smoked meat aromas are followed by light, elegant K Vintners 2015 Klein Syrah (Walla Walla Val- cherry and herb flavors that persist on the finish. GFW 2016 Vinocluster Merlot (Rattlesnake 91 ley). Spice, licorice, cigar box, lavender and Lightly gritty tannins back it up. It’s all about deli- 85 Hills). The aromas are light and hard to blackberry aromas are at the fore. On the palate, the cacy, but it brings it in abundance. Best after 2019. tease out. Smooth fruit flavors follow, with the con- flavors are ripe and sweet, with the concentration —S.S. centration not all there. The variety seems hard to dipping at times. The tannins seem quite clenched abv: 14.5% Price: $70 find. —S.S. and dry at present. Perhaps some time in the bottle abv: 14.2% Price: $24 will stitch it all together. —S.S. Cairdeas 2016 Boushey Vineyard Syrah abv: 14.5% Price: $70 89 (Yakima Valley). Intriguing aromas of smoked meat, iron and herb draw you into the glass.

108 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 Plump, juicy but still elegant fruit flavors follow. K Vintners 2015 Ovide Jack’s Vineyard Cab- itself strongly, with aromas of dried orange peel and There’s a lovely sense of balance and purity that 91 ernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). flower in front of plum, black pepper and smoked keeps the interest up. —S.S. Smelling this wine, there is no question it comes meat. The palate is straight down the fairway, with abv: 14.9% Price: $55 from the Rocks District. A blend of 70% Cabernet lighter fruit flavors that bring appeal. —S.S. Sauvignon and 30% Syrah, aromas of green and abv: NA Price: $25 K Vintners 2016 Milbrandt Syrah (Wahluke black olive, moist earth, ash and mineral are fol- 89 Slope). This wine is a blend of fruit from lowed by soft, velvety, elegantly styled fruit flavors. K Vintners 2015 Charlotte (Walla Walla Val- Northridge (54%) and Clifton Hill vineyards. The It’s a very pretty wine, with peat and smoke notes 88 ley). 42% Mourvèdre, 28% Syrah and 16% aromas offer notes of wet gravel, dried and fresh on the finish. —S.S. Grenache make up the majority of this wine, with stem, orange rind, blackberry and dark plum. Sweet, abv: 13.5% Price: $55 the balance Counoise, Cinsault, Picpoul and Gre­ somewhat linear raspberry and darker fruit flavors nache Blanc. Aromas of overripe-seeming cherry, follow that bring a sense of purity and intent, with Kerloo 2016 Majestic (Columbia Valley). Gre­ raspberry, black pepper, herb and spice are followed slightly tacky-seeming tannins backing it all up. 91 nache makes up just under three-quarters by tart flavors that show more of the same. The tan- —S.S. of this wine, followed by 21% Mourvèdre and 5% nins seem clenched. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Syrah. The aromas intrigue, with notes of raspberry, abv: 15% Price: $55 stem, tobacco, orange peel, flower and white pep- Elephant Seven 2016 Yellow Bird Vineyard per. Light, lithe cherry and raspberry flavors follow, K Vintners 2015 Roma River Rock Vineyard 88 Block 3 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Blended with plentiful smoked meat accents throughout. It’s 88 Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Walla Walla Val- with 8% Viognier. The aromas start out surpris- all about elegance. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. ley). Three-quarters Cabernet Sauvignon with the ingly subdued, with notes of raspberry jam, flower abv: 14.4% Price: $26 rest Syrah, this wine comes in at an alcohol level and herb. The flavors are lighter in style, shortening (12.5%) unheard of for a red wine in the state in up on the warm finish. It’s equal parts intrigue and K Vintners 2015 King Coal Stoneridge Vine- modern times. The aromas are brooding, with notes delivery. —S.S. 90 yard Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Washing- of sea salt, herb, tobacco, barrel spice and earth. abv: 14.7% Price: $45 ton). Cabernet Sauvignon makes up three-quarters The flavors are light and elegant, not entirely hold- of this wine, with the balance Syrah. The aromas ing together throughout but still providing a lot of Gordon Estate 2015 Estate Syrah (Colum- offer notes of green olive, mortared green herb, interest. —S.S. 88 bia Valley). The aromas pop, with notes of stem, fresh tobacco and spice, leaning hard into the abv: 12.5% Price: $55 olive, smoke, spice, dark fruit and tire rubber. The savory. Juicy, ripe but still elegant fruit flavors fol- palate is seamless and well balanced. It provides a low. Chalky, dry feeling tannins back it all up. —S.S. Noviello 2015 Brava (Red Mountain). Caber- lot of appeal. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $100 88 net Sauvignon comprises half of this wine, abv: 13.6% Price: $21 with the rest equal parts Petit Verdot, Cabernet Cairdeas 2017 Diffraction Red (Washing- Franc and Merlot. Dark chocolate, baking spice, Kerloo 2016 Les Collines Syrah (Walla Walla 89 ton). This is a unique blend of principally black licorice, graphite, dried herb and cherry aro- 87 Valley). All of the fruit for this wine comes 32% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 16% Cinsault and 11% mas are followed by ripe fruit flavors that bring from Block 50, the sprawl block at this vineyard. Counoise, along with pinches of Petite Sirah and appeal. —S.S. The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of Alicante Bouschet. Primary huckleberry, raspberry abv: 14.6% Price: $52 violet, black pepper, smoked meat and plum. Lightly gummy, black pepper and herb aromas are followed spritzy, tacky-feeling fruit flavors follow, with dry by elegant, graceful fruit flavors. The concentration Substance 2015 Vineyard Collection Bx Klein tannins and a cough drop note on the finish. —S.S. seems light at times, but what is there delights, 88 Vineyard (Walla Walla Valley). Cabernet abv: 13.1% Price: $57 with a lovely sense of balance. Give it some addi- Sauvignon makes up 45% of this wine, with the tional time in the bottle to see it at its best. —S.S. balance 28% Merlot and 27% Cabernet Franc, each Noviello 2015 Syrah (Red Mountain). Coming abv: 14% Price: $24 of which shows itself. Vibrant, appealing aromas 87 from a hot appellation in a hot vintage, this of raspberry jam, licorice, cranberry, dried flower, wine offers aromas of dark roasted coffee, ham and Cairdeas 2016 Trí (Columbia Valley). This crushed blackberry and herb are followed by tightly green herb—a strange mix. Somewhat lighter-styled 89 wine is just under three quarters Syrah, wound fruit flavors. The tannins bring a fair amount cranberry and cherry flavors follow. —S.S. with the balance Mourvèdre and Grenache. Cherry of grip and dry grit. —S.S. abv: 15.1% Price: $50 candy, black pepper and spice aromas lead to soft, abv: 14.5% Price: $70 supple fruit and peppery flavors. It doesn’t quite have the intensity to stand up on its own but should Vino 2016 Rosso (Washington). This wine RED BLENDS shine at the dinner table. Pair it with lamb chops 88 is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and with a cherry glaze. —S.S. 30% Sangiovese. Aromas of green herb, raspberry Cairdeas 2016 Caislén an Pápa Boushey Vine- abv: 14% Price: $42 and plum lead to fleshy, pure, black currant and 91 yard (Yakima Valley). This wine is a blend raspberry flavors. There’s a pleasing sense of direct- of 37% Grenache, 28% Mourvèdre, 16% Syrah, Owen Roe 2016 Red (Yakima Valley). Merlot ness to it. Best Buy. —S.S. 11% Counoise and 10% Cinsault, coming from one 89 makes up just over half of this wine, with abv: 13.5% Price: $12 of the state’s top Rhône variety sites. High-toned, the rest 37% Cabernet Franc along with dashes of thoroughly enchanting aromas of raspberry gummy, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Malbec. Dried Mercer 2016 Reserve Heritage (Horse Heaven huckleberry, fresh ground black pepper, smoked and fresh herb aromas are at the fore, with cherry 87 Hills). This is a blend of 42% Syrah, 38% meat and rose hips are followed by initially elegantly and spice notes in the background. There’s a lovely Merlot, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Malbec. styled fruit flavors that bring a sense of freshness, sense of elegance to the palate. This one is all about The aromas are brooding, with notes of herb, plum, broadening over time. Smoked meat and white pep- restraint, equal parts intrigue and delivery. —S.S. cherry and spice. The palate is lighter in style, with per notes linger on the long finish. It brings all of the abv: 14.1% Price: $28 the tannins bringing a sense of astringency that freshness and elegance of the vintage. Give it time to settles a bit with some time open. —S.S. open up and it delivers, with a long life in front of it. Inconceivable 2014 Red (Columbia Valley). abv: NA Price: $25 Editors’ Choice. —S.S. 88 Though not labeled as such, Syrah makes up abv: 14% Price: $45 close to two-thirds of this wine, with the rest Gre­ Noviello 2015 Luigi (Red Mountain). Caber- nache, Mourvèdre and Viognier. The latter shows 87 net Sauvignon makes up half of this wine,

WINEMAG.COM | 109

BUYINGGUIDE with the balance 33% Merlot and a whopping 17% with a lingering, smoked meat and white pepper- Petit Verdot. Reticent aromas of cherry and spice filled finish.Editors’ Choice. —S.S. CANADA are followed by cherry and cranberry flavors. The abv: 14% Price: $34 tannins bring a firm, dry grip. —S.S. WHITE WINES abv: 14.5% Price: $48 Casa Smith 2016 Cinghiale Wahluke Slope 88 & Rosebud Vineyards Sangiovese (Wahluke Cave Spring 2017 Estate Riesling (Beamsville Seven Hills 2016 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Slope). Aromas of gun smoke, herb, raspberry, 93 Bench). For full review see page 7. Editors’ 87 (Red Mountain). Garden herb, dried cherry, cranberry and fire pit are followed by sweet, well- Choice. leather and spice lead to somewhat lighter-styled balanced raspberry jam flavors. There is a lot to like. abv: 11.5% Price: $18 golden raisin flavors backed by quite gritty tannins —S.S. with medicinal accents. It doesn’t all come together, abv: 15% Price: $25 Cave Spring 2017 Riesling (Niagara Penin- seeming dried out. —S.S. 91 sula). This tart and delicate wine packs a lot abv: 14.8% Price: $55 Casa Smith 2016 Porcospino Northridge of flavor in its dry frame. Grapefruit and nectarine 88 Vineyard Primitivo (Wahluke Slope). Rasp- are the dominant fruit flavors. It’s sappy and long, Adega Northwest 2015 Grower’s Cuvée berry jam aromas are at the fore, followed by notes with a faint hint of petrol. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 86 Miguel Rodriguez Weinbau Vineyard G-S- of spice, ash and cherry. Light, tart, plump-feeling abv: 11% Price: $16 M (Columbia Valley). Syrah makes up 40% of this jammy fruit flavors follow. It brings appeal. —S.S. wine, with the balance equal parts Grenache and abv: 15% Price: $25 Vanessa 2017 Viognier (Similkameen Valley). Mourvèdre. The aromas don’t seem entirely settled, 87 As the near 15% alcohol would suggest, this with notes of jelly bean and herb along with dried Seven Hills 2016 Carmenère (Walla Walla is a fully-ripened wine, pushing the grape’s fla- fruit. Sleek fruit flavors follow. —S.S. 88 Valley). Aromas of peppery spice, sliced vors into a rich, round, peachy realm. In so doing, abv: 14.3% Price: $30 green pepper and jalapeño lead to medium-bodied it avoids the bitterness that can plague underripe fruit flavors that bring a sense of purity and balance. Viognier, but feels just a little flabby in the mouth. GFW 2016 Vinocluster Rattledeaux (Colum- It’s a pleasing if a bit green example of the variety. —P.G. 86 bia Valley). This Cabernet Sauvignon-based Put it on the dinner table to see it at its best, pair- abv: 14.9% Price: $25 blend brings overt aromas of wood spice, green ing with roasted chicken sprinkled with sage. —S.S. herb, tire rubber, vanilla and green pepper, followed abv: 13% Price: $35 by lighter-styled fruit flavors. The tannins come off RED WINES as quite grippy, not seeming to have fully ripened. Casa Smith 2016 Cervo Northridge Vineyard —S.S. 87 Barbera (Wahluke Slope). The smoke, tire Vanessa 2015 Cabernet Franc (Similkameen abv: 14.3% Price: $24 rubber and raspberry aromas seem unusual. The 91 Valley). A solid strength here and throughout candied cranberry and cherry flavors are lighter eastern British Columbia, this varietally­-specific Maryhill 2015 Indira Elephant Mountain styled. It’s a unique, not entirely successful offering wine builds upon compact black cherry fruit. It 85 Vineyards (Rattlesnake Hills). This wine is a of the variety. —S.S. shows hints of coffee and sage, with a tannic foun- blend of 54% Cinsault and 46% Counoise. It’s quite abv: 15% Price: $20 dation that remains proportionate while flavors light in color with an orange tinge at the rim. The of stem, tobacco and black tea keep it interesting aromas seem closed up at present, while the palate Maryhill 2015 Vineyard Series Art Den Hoed through the long finish. —P.G. offers faint, slightly tangy fruit flavors. The flavors 85 Petite Sirah (Columbia Valley). This wine is abv: 14.1% Price: $50 seem quite dilute. —S.S. 100% varietal, aged in a mixture of French and other abv: 14.2% Price: $44 European oak (55% new). The aromas offer notes of Vanessa 2014 Syrah (Similkameen Valley). wood, vanilla, dried cherry and herb. Plentiful, full- 91 Along with their Cabernet Franc, Syrah is Mercer 2016 Edge of Heaven Blend (Horse bodied cranberry flavors follow. The tannins give an the standout at Vanessa. Its pungent mix of cured 84 Heaven Hills). Quite dried out-seeming aro- astringent squeeze that distracts. —S.S. meat, roasted coffee, black fruits, iron filings and mas of raspberry, vanilla and cherry are followed abv: 14.8% Price: $40 beef jerky somehow place it in the same organolep- by ripe fruit flavors that also seem desiccated. The tic range as Syrahs from the Rocks District in Walla concentration comes off as quite light. —S.S. Maryhill 2015 Vineyard Series McKinley Walla. This was co-fermented with 10% Viognier, abv: 13.9% Price: $20 85 Springs Vineyard Mourvèdre (Horse Heaven to good effect. —P.G. Hills). This is 100% varietal, aged 20 months in a abv: 14.8% Price: $35 mixture of American and European oak (40% new). OTHER RED WINES It’s quite light in color with an orange rim. The aro- Vanessa 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Similka- mas offer notes of pencil eraser, licorice, raspberry 88 meen Valley). Thickly tannic right from the B. Leighton 2015 Olsen Brothers Vineyard and graphite. Light, not entirely ripened fruit fla- start, this wine feels overloaded with astringent, 90 Petit Verdot (Yakima Valley). Aromas of vors follow. The variety seems hard to find. —S.S. charred flavors of coffee grounds, earth and stem. cherry meats, spice, high-toned green herb, orange abv: 14.8% Price: $40 The black cherry fruit is concentrated but over- peel, citrus and earth are followed by focused, tart, whelmed. It will require aggressive aeration to bring citrusy flavors, with firm tannins providing support. Gordon Estate 2015 Estate Petit Verdot it back into relative balance. —P.G. Put it on the dinner table to see it at its best. —S.S. 84 (Columbia Valley). Vanilla aromas are out abv: 13.8% Price: $80 abv: 14.5% Price: $55 front, followed by green wood notes, flowers and cherries, with the palate showing more of the same. Vanessa 2014 Meritage (Similkameen Val- Cairdeas 2016 Cinsault (Yakima Valley). The variety seems hard to find, with the wood steal- 87 ley). This roughly equal blend of Cabernet 90 Blended with 25% Alicante Bouschet—the ing the show. —S.S. Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc has rough, first use of this variety I am aware of in the state— abv: 13.7% Price: $24 astringent tannins with a green component that’s the aromas boast notes of smoked meat, dried not entirely out of place. The tart, wild berry fruit is flower, herb, black pepper and sea salt, leaning hard firmly in the background. —P.G. into the savory. The palate is sleek and pure in style, abv: 14.7% Price: $40

110 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 SWEET WINES

Cave Spring 2017 Icewine Riesling (Lincoln 95 Lakeshore). Thick, concentrated flavors of apricot marmalade, papaya and tangerine dive deep down into the core. This fruit-driven flavor riot is amply annotated by a lush seam of caramel, and the flavors go on and on. One half size bottle will happily serve 4-to-6 sweet tooths. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 11% Price: $60/375 ml

Cave Spring 2017 Indian Summer Riesling 93 (Lincoln Lakeshore). Solidly in the dessert wine camp in this vintage, this checks in at 102 g/L residual sugar. Peach, apricot and ripe nectarine fruit flavors abound, with a drip of honey. It’s juicy and big, but never cloying, and finishes with a sug- gestion of dry straw. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $30/375 ml

Inniskillin 2017 Icewine Vidal (Niagara 94 Peninsula). Intensely aromatic, this wine brings concentrated flavors of peach syrup, apri- cot jam and candied pineapple. Lush and tongue- coating, the sweetness (250 g/L residual sugar) is adequately offset with acidity, and as it rolls down the throat brings added layers of maple syrup, but- terscotch and butter brickle. Constellation Brands, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 9.8% Price: $55/375 ml

Inniskillin 2016 Gold Icewine Vidal (Niagara 92 Peninsula). Inniskillin’s Niagara Estate pro- duces an interesting range of icewines, but other than Riesling, the Vidal wines rule. With 250 g/L of residual sugar this falls right down the center line, yielding deeply concentrated, candied flavors of peach, apricot and papaya. The lingering finish carries a seam of butterscotch. One half size bottle will easily serve as dessert for two couples. Constel- lation Brands, Inc. —P.G. abv: 9.5% Price: $85/375 ml

WINEMAG.COM | 111

BUYINGGUIDE

apple tartness, brisk lemony acidity, white flowers and ginger. A wisp of smoke marks the elegant fade. abv: 47% Price: $65

Glendalough 7 Year Old Single Malt Irish SPIRITS 93 Whiskey (Ireland; Mark Anthony Crafted Irish whiskey update Spirits, Chicago, IL). This whiskey is finished in Dublin’s Black Pitts Porter barrels. The aroma min- gles vanilla, fresh pear and a funky whiff reminis- ntil very recently, Irish whiskey was the ­particularly interesting effects. For example, cent of beer. The palate shows a more pronounced most traditional of the whiskey catego- Glendalough gave its 13-year-old single malt a beer note, brimming with dark chocolate, espresso, ries. It wasn’t known for flashy celebrity spin in mizunara oak puncheons from Japan, cookie dough and vanilla, finishing on a fresh pear promos, and special cask finishes were lending a markedly silky texture to the fin- note. Gift this delicious pour to a favorite craft beer Uonly rarely seen. Irish whiskey was gentle and ished Irish whiskey, along with intriguing hints aficionado. abv: 46% Price: $57 staid, known for its approachable flavor profile of plum skin and bitter chocolate. Meanwhile, and affordable pricing. Bushmills rolled out a limited edition Distillery Glendalough 13 Year Old Single Malt Mizu- However, times have changed. Although it Exclusive bottling finished in acacia—a wood 93 nara Finish Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Mark still speaks of the pastoral countryside, with lay- typically used as cooperage for white wines. Anthony Crafted Spirits, Chicago, IL). Soulful and ers of fresh orchard fruit, grass Perhaps the most telling silky, this is aged for 13 years in ex-Bourbon barrels, then a shorter turn in mizunara oak puncheons. It’s and floral notes, the new Irish change is the advent of celeb- The new Irish markedly soft on the palate, with most of the flavor whiskey has attitude and edge. rity Irish whiskey. A couple of on the drying finish: an intriguing mix of plum skin, Following in the footsteps of whiskey has years back, the punk band The unsweetened chocolate, honey and a touch of clove. Scotch and American whiskey, attitude and edge. Pogues put their name on a abv: 46% Price: $115 a growing number of new bot- West Cork-made whiskey. Now, Lambay Whiskey Single Malt Irish Whiskey tlings have been finished in bar- mixed martial artist Conor 93 (Ireland; CIL US Wines & Spirits, Ft. Lauder- rels that previously held other liquids, feed- McGregor has released his own bottling, called dale, FL). The story behind this whiskey reflects a ing a consumer market hungry for new flavors. Proper No. Twelve. Even U2 frontman Bono has tale of two islands: First, the spirit is aged on Lam- Fortified wines like Port (Ballyhoo) and oloroso announced a $58 million investment in a dis- bay Island, off the coast of Dublin. The whiskey is Sherry (Powers Three Swallow, The Sexton)­; tillery in County Kildare. then finished in Cognac casks from Île de Ré, off the coast of France. While the finished result doesn’t beer (Glendalough’s stout-finished single malt While production techniques and marketing exactly sing of the salty sea, it’s a pleasing sipper and Jameson’s IPA-finished Caskmates bot- patter likely will continue to evolve, at least one nonetheless, with a dark honey hue, bold, fruity tling); and spirits like Cognac (Lambay) all fig- thing hasn’t changed: Irish whiskey still offers aroma and drying palate mixing cedar with big, red ured into this month’s line-up. plenty of great bottlings worth seeking out. apple bite and a long, robust vanilla-and-clove exit. Producers are also experimenting with Cheers! abv: 40% Price: $70 casks made from various woods—yielding some —Kara Newman The Quiet Man 8 Year Old Single Malt Irish 93 Whiskey (Ireland; Luxco, St Louis, MO). Golden in the glass, the scent evokes fresh-cut apples and pears. The soft palate leads with an alcohol kick, then gives over to fresh fruit mingled Bushmills Distillery Exclusive Single Malt long, rich vanilla finish. Finished in ­ex-Bourbon with cinnamon and a mild puff of smoke. Finished 96 Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Proximo Spirits, Jer- casks. Best Buy. in first-fill Bourbon barrels. sey City, NJ). This big, bold whiskey will appeal to abv: 40% Price: $33 abv: 40% Price: $43 those who usually gravitate toward Scotch. It layers tones of wood, smoke and cinnamon spice. A cube Powers Three Swallow Single Pot Still Irish Ballyhoo Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Millstone of ice tames the alcohol heat and unfurls hints of 94 Whiskey (Ireland; Pernod Ricard, New York, 92 Spirits Group, Philadelphia, PA). This easy- orange and lemon peel. Matured in charred Bourbon NY). This robust, tawny whiskey offers almond and drinking whiskey has a straw hue, mild vanilla barrels and toasted Sherry casks, then finished in fresh pear aromas. The rich, buttery palate opens aroma and feather-light feel on the palate. Smooth acacia wood. with baked pear, vanilla, raisin and toasty brioche, layers of vanilla and lemon cream are braced by abv: 47% Price: $85 sliding into a clove-accented finish with just hint of black pepper and the faintest whiff of smoke. Fin- smoke on the exhale. Matured in ex-Bourbon casks, ished in Port casks. Glendalough Double Barrel Irish Whiskey married with a smaller amount of whiskey matured abv: 43% Price: $30 95 (Ireland; Mark Anthony Crafted Spirits, Chi- in oloroso Sherry casks. cago, IL). For full review see page 103. Best Buy. abv: 43.2% Price: $50 Jameson Black Barrel Irish Whiskey (Ireland; abv: 42% Price: $33 92 Pernod Ricard, New York, NY). The former Tipperary Watershed Single Malt Irish Whis- Bourbon barrels used to mature this whiskey were The Quiet Man Traditional Irish Whiskey 94 key (Ireland; Impex, San Francisco, CA). “charred and double charred,” the producer says, to 95 Blend (Ireland; Luxco, St Louis, MO). Look Bright and bracing, this straw-tinted whiskey is coax more from the barrel wood. Look for an almost for a burnished gold hue and mild scent that hints light on its feet. Green apple slices and honeysuckle piña colada-like effect: coconut and tropical fruit at vanilla. The silky palate opens with fresh fruit perfume the nose, while the palate reflects green sprinkled with cinnamon, fading into an exceedingly

112 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019 aromas, and a rich, honey-soaked palate that shows The Sexton Single Malt Irish Whiskey (Ire- MurLarkey Heritage Old Country Whiskey caramelized pineapple and dried apricot. Best Buy. 90 land; Proximo Spirits, Jersey City, NJ). 86 Wine Cask Finished (USA; MurLarkey Dis- abv: 40% Price: $37 Within the squat, hexagonal-shaped bottle, this tilled Spirits, Bristow, VA). This 100-proof, wine- tawny whiskey is scented boldly with baked pear, finished American whiskey “pays homage to our Kilbeggan Small Batch Rye Irish Whiskey vanilla and honey. The smooth, oak-forward palate Irish ancestry,” the producer says. The nose and 92 (Ireland; Beam Suntory, Chicago, IL). Most suggests a Bourbon-like profile, finishing long with palate are dominantly oaky, but also shows smaller rye whiskeys are made in America, yet this bottling lots of honey, plus echoes of nutmeg, clove and lemon amounts of caramel, cocoa powder, allspice and overflows with brisk cinnamon and clove. It eases peel. Finished in oloroso Sherry casks. Best Buy. clove, finishing fiery. Adding water coaxes out a into coconut and vanilla flavors on the midpalate, abv: 40% Price: $28 subtle suggestion of red fruit. finishing with drying hints of oak tannins and red abv: 50% Price: $50 apple skin. Best Buy. Spade & Bushel 10 Year Old Cask Strength abv: 43% Price: $35 90 Single Malt Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Millstone Spirits, Philadelphia, PA). This whiskey offers a POITIN Kirkland Signature Irish Whiskey (Ireland; mild, fresh apple scent. Initial sweetness leads the 92 Misa Imports, Dallas, TX). Look for a honey palate into citrusy tartness and a wallop of heat on Padraig’s Rebellion Poitin (USA; Restless hue and gentle white floral scent. The palate is fresh the exit. Dosing this dram with water takes the edge 85 Spirits Distillery, North Kansas City, MO). and bright, echoing the floral aromas and finishing off the alcohol heat and brings out hints of smoke Made in the style of Ireland’s unaged spirit, this with pleasing tinges of smoke and vanilla. Sip or and lemon zest. clear American-made bottling has a bold, raw mix this four year-old Irish. Best Buy. abv: 57.5% Price: $43 aroma that channels banana and tropical fruit. The abv: 40% Price: $28/1.75 L palate also is fruity, with a raw distillate quality Jameson Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Pernod that stings with alcohol heat and finishes with a Tipperary Knockmealdowns Single Malt 88 Ricard, New York, NY). This golden whis- rounded, grape-like note. Made from 100% malted 92 Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Impex, San Francisco, key has a dried apricot aroma and vanilla-forward barley. CA). This 10-year-old whiskey from a boutique palate with hints of smoke and clove on the exhale, abv: 57.5% Price: $24/375 ml distillery pleases with its gentle, grassy aroma and plus palpable alcohol heat. Recommended to mix. perky palate. Toasty oak and ginger lead to a fresh- abv: 40% Price: $25 cut red apple note on the exhale. Adding water—a fair amount—softens the edges to bring out lemon Sons of Erin Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Restless cream, vanilla and pear flavors. 87 Spirits, North Kansas City, MO). Look for a abv: 47% Price: $90 light straw hue and bright, vanilla-forward scent alongside hints of pineapple and pear. The palate Lambay Whiskey Small Batch Blend Irish opens with oak and vanilla, with hints of resin and 91 Whiskey (Ireland; CIL US Wines & Spirits, Ft. apple on the exit, plus black pepper and clove heat. Lauderdale, FL). Fresh pear and honeysuckle mingle Recommended to mix. on the mellow nose and palate, drying to fiery cin- abv: 46% Price: $40 namon on the finish. An ice cube or splash of water is needed to take off the edge. Finished in Cognac Proper No. Twelve Irish Whiskey (Ireland; casks. Best Buy. 86 Proximo Spirits, Jersey City, NJ). This whis- abv: 40% Price: $35 key has a bold topaz hue and almond aroma. The palate has a distinct plastic note, underpinned with Kilbrin Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Saranty more pleasant almond and honey. A hint of lemon 91 Imports, Stamford, CT). Mixing fruity and acidity and blast of alcohol heat sets the mouth grassy tones, this bouncy spirit resonates with fresh watering. Recommended to mix. This is a blend of apple and ginger sparks, fading to mellow vanilla grain and single malt whiskeys, aged a minimum of and almond. Best Buy. three years in former Bourbon barrels. The debut abv: 40% Price: $22 offering from Mixed Martial Arts (MMA) Champion Conor McGregor benefits first responders for every Sons of Erin Single Malt Aged 15 Years Irish barrel sold. 91 Whiskey (Ireland; Restless Spirits, North Kan- abv: 40% Price: $30 sas City, MO). Bouncy, grassy and fresh, this golden Irish whiskey offers a citrusy aroma and mouthwa- tering palate. The racy acidity of green apple and OTHER WHISKEY lemon peel yields to a slick of honey on the exit, laced with ginger and cinnamon sparks. Stone Breaker Irish & American Whiskey (Ire- abv: 46% Price: $110 89 land/USA; Restless Spirits, North Kansas City, MO). This is a blend of Irish and American- Jameson Caskmates IPA Edition Irish Whis- made whiskies in one bottle. Expect a burnished 90 key (Ireland; Pernod Ricard, New York, NY). gold hue and gentle, fruity scent. The palate shows Finished in craft beer barrels, this quaffable whis- concentrated vanilla and coconut cream from open key offers a bright topaz hue and bracing tropi- to close, finishing with lemon-pepper zing and a cal fruit and grapefruit peel notes. Almond, bitter considerable smack of alcohol heat. Adding water chocolate and clove tones linger on the exhale. Sip tames the fire, but also washes out the flavor, so or mix. Best Buy. dilute with an easy hand. abv: 40% Price: $30 abv: 40% Price: $46

WINEMAG.COM | 113

BUYINGGUIDE

upfront, with rich scents of caramel malt, milk chocolate, toffee and espresso that all complement the roasted peanut core. The medium-weight palate offers more of the same, with a woody accent that gains traction through the earthy close. The crisp BEER carbonation keeps the palate lively, balancing the The beauty of brown ales toasty, slightly decadent flavors and resulting in a clean finish that leaves you ready for more. With only moderate alcohol, it’s a satisfying and richly arch is one of those transitional bev- American versions can be quite similar to flavored pour that won’t leave you on the floor after erage months, when you’re likely done their European counterparts, although they a few samples. fully enjoying the big, bold of win- tend to use American ingredients, including abv: 5.5% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack ter but are not quite ready to welcome hops. And, like most American interpretations theM lighter, brighter selections of spring. What’s of European beer styles, the hop profile is often Newburgh Brown Ale (English-style Brown Ale; Newburgh Brewing Company, NY). This a beer lover to do? amped up a degree or two (or even three or four), 89 beer is a mahogany-brown color, with more garnet Brown ales are the perfect solution to your and with that , there might also be an increase inflections when held up to the light and about a midseason woes. Tradition- in alcohol, especially for pro- finger’s worth of light tan foam. The nose and palate ally an English style, brown ducers looking to make an offer pleasant notes of caramel malt, milk chocolate ales were originally spawned The style’s rich, malty imperial selection. and a touch of roasted peanut, with subtle hints of unsweetened cocoa powder and earthiness. The from mild ales. The style’s American breweries character, without mouthfeel is medium in body, with bright carbon- rich, malty character, without overly robust or bitter might also consider adding ation and an overall easygoing, smooth impression overly robust or bitter notes, notes, as well as its other ingredients, like coffee that makes it quite sessionable despite the beer’s as well as its moderate alcohol or nuts, to further augment a sweeter characteristics. and ample carbonation, pro- moderate alcohol and brown ale’s sweet-malt core. abv: 4.2% Price: $10/16 oz 4 pack vide the best of both worlds: The style’s resulting ample carbonation, Brown Ale (American Brown Ale; flavorful, yet approachable provide the best of varying recipes and brew- 87 Brooklyn Brewery, NY). This pours a clear and often sessionable beers. both worlds. ing techniques can result dark-brown color, with a frothy off-white head that The hop profile of tradi- in some blurred lines when shows good retention and pretty lacing. The softly tional European selections is it comes to knowing what nuanced nose offers a roasted grain note that’s topped with hints of cocoa and earthy hop. There’s typically low—light on aroma, flavor and over- to expect from any given American brown ale. a bit more intensity to the medium-weight palate, all bitterness—allowing the malt characteris- Your best bet is to read the beer’s label for indi- where a pronounced toasted malt flavor combines tics to take center stage and truly shine. Some cations of style or additional ingredients, IBUs with textural tones of peanut shell, green walnut producers prefer a lean profile, with cleansing and alcohol, or check out the producer’s web- and bittersweet cocoa. Bright carbonation keeps the carbonation to lift the roasty characteristics, site for more recipe specifics. mouthfeel fresh and lively, while lingering hop bit- terness gives a dry impression to the close. while others might drill down into the rich, Or better yet, pick up a mixed sixer and taste abv: 5.6% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack malty, nutty goodness that some people can’t through a range of offerings to find your own get enough of. favorite style. —Lauren Buzzeo

Samuel Smith’s Nut Brown Ale (English AleSmith Nut Brown Ale (English-style Brown 93 Brown Ale; Samuel Smith Old Brewery [Tad- 91 Ale; AleSmith Brewing Company, CA). A rich, caster], England). This iconic brown ale, from the pleasing mahogany color, this bold and flavorful family-owned Samuel Smith brewery, was intro- brown ale leads with malty scents of toasted brown duced in cans in 2018, making it all the more easy bread and roasted nuts that are complemented by to find and enjoy while out and about. It pours a additional hits of bittersweet cocoa and caramel. rich mahogany brown color, with a solid beige head The palate is smooth and full in feel, with a creamy that shows good retention. The bouquet opens with texture of lush roasted-malt and mocha flavors. Its enticing aromas of toasted malts, brown bread, decadent backbone is balanced by ample carbon- caramelized brown sugar and warm hazelnuts. The ation while hints of earthy hops and bergamot tea medium-weight body is full and creamy in feel, lend a pleasant drying astringency to the finish. with pleasant toasted nut and caramel malt flavors. Overall, it’s a well-balanced and supremely easy-to- A lightly bitter walnut flavor unfolds on the finish like selection. and lends a slight textural grip and dry sensation to abv: 5% Price: $14/12 oz 6 pack the close, lifting the rich flavor profile and finishing clean. Merchant du Vin. Cigar City Maduro Brown Ale (English-style abv: 5% Price: $12/14.9 oz 4 pack 91 Brown Ale; Cigar City Brewing, FL). This pours a solid dark-brown color, with a small tan head that falls rather fast. The nose is pleasantly roasty

114 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2019