PEAK AREA BMC AGM wallkers on .. Photo::Spencer Ramsey.. NEWSLETTER

June 2019 [email protected]

Rocking Chair profile of climate breakdown and biodiversity Rob Greenwood loss on a global scale, we obviously need to be asking ourselves some serious questions By the time you’re on a local scale too – as individual hill walkers reading this there’s a and climbers, and as an organisation. distinct chance I’ll be a dad, which On a small scale, I’ve been doing my bit may/may not explain my absence from for the local ring ouzel survey which the BMC the next meeting. While I’m very much takes an active role in. So far, they’ve been hoping to attend, I’m sure you’ll excuse doing well, with several nests on my local crag, me if I’m not there. It’s a shame too, Bamford Edge. It’s great to see, but monitoring as it’s looking like we’ve got a cracking is only one small step in the face of climate meeting lined up. change which is widely regarded as being a Of particular interest and importance is major factor in the bird’s declining population our speaker, Tim Birch, Head of Living – down over 43% in the last 40 years. Landscapes at DerbyshireWildlifeTrust, who Undoubtedly there’s a great debate to be will be giving a talk called ‘Rewilding: a new had and I very much hope to be there so I approach for uplands’.With the likes of Greta can be a part of it. Thunberg and Extinction Rebellion raising the See you there … or not …

Next meeting: Wednesday 12 June, 7.30 p.m. The Maynard, Grindleford, S32 2HE Curbar Edge.. Photo::John Coefiielld..

Access News should not visit this crag, along with nearby Jon Fulwood (Limestone), Andi Turner Blackwell Halt. (Roaches), Louise Hawson (Stanage) Minor rockfall has been reported at the & Rob Dyer right-hand side of RavenTor (Millers Dale) above the bouldering area, causing some The limestone season started well damage to the road surface below.An with even the wettest crags becoming assessment has yet to be made to determine almost completely dry and promising if further loose rock is liable to fall in the a fruitful summer on the Cornice. near future. Common sense would dictate Sadly, one record-breaking day of rain that climbers make their own visual in late April soaked all the seepy crags assessment in the meantime prior to which sent us back to square one. climbing or parking vehicles in this area. Access wise, a climber was escorted off At Gardom’s, significant tree clearance Blatant Buttress in Cheedale with a has been carried out without the permission warning from the police due to the crag’s of the landowner around Apple Buttress, and close proximity to the live railway line. No subsequent signs have been erected by the further action was taken, but future access landowner stating their position.The felling to Blatant Buttress seems very likely to result has been done to a poor standard, leaving in the police attending if climbers are seen high stumps and arisings piled in inconvenient and reported by passing trains. BMC advice places which suggests it wasn’t carried out by on the Regional Access Database (RAD) climbers. The BMC has been in contact with now states that due to the proximity of the landowner to offer assistance and is railway lines and the consequent possibility awaiting a response, but if you are that any trespass may be considered a considering removing trees at this or any criminal rather than civil offence, climbers other crag, please contact the BMC access

2 Peak Area Newsletter June 2019 team first to ensure the proper channels are a problem, with cars parked along the road followed and access issues aren’t while Hollin Bank car park remains half full. inadvertently created. Cars parked along the roadside impede At , things are generally access for emergency vehicles and residents, running smoothly. There haven’t been any and damage roadside habitats.We know peregrines nesting this year (at least not on there has to be a better solution to this the popular crags), which is a mixed blessing: than the current situation with increased good for climbers, but a shame for the birds. parking charges and enforcement, but We’re not sure what has put them off, please park in the car parks if you can. perhaps the camera they installed up there … We’ve had a little bit of positive progress Restoring the Roaches after regarding parking.The field next to the tea the wildfires room has started to open up for overflow Chris Fry, Moors for the Future parking on busy days. It’s a couple of quid, but that’s a whole lot cheaper than the Last year the Roaches suffered a horrific fine you’ll likely get if caught parking on wildfire which left devastating damage the verges. which still persists a year later. Caused by The burnt moorland continues to be off a barbecue which got out of hand, the fire limits for walking across, although it should spread to cover 60 hectares of blanket bog be reiterated that all the climbing is open, and woodland.These fires burn deep into despite signage still occasionally turning up the peat and have an impact which lasts stating ‘no climbing beyond Chicken Run’. long after the smoke has gone. There is more on the impact of the fires Charred peat is extremely hydrophobic; from Moors for the Future's Chris Fry, below. it repels water which makes it incredibly The National Park has difficult to re-establish moorland vegetation. released an invitation to consultants to bid Not only that, but dry, bare peat is highly to carry out an options appraisal of the sensitive to erosion as it dries, crumbles, Stanage-North Lees estate’s built and turns to dust and then blows away in the land assets.This could affect the campsite, wind or flows downhill in heavy rain. Cattiside Cottage, the hall and the farm, with Work by Moors for the Future’s opportunities to develop better facilities for Community Science Team has shown educational and recreational user groups. that on the Roaches fire scar over 10 The Stanage Forum will be consulted as centimetres of peat has been eroded away part of the appraisal process, before a since the fire – that’s about 100 years of decision is made by members later in the peat growth and accumulation gone in year. We’ll keep you updated on the process. one year. The 2019 Open Meeting of the Stanage Restoring this site will require a lot of Forum will be at 2 p.m. on 12 October at money and time. Once the water flow has Methodist Hall. More details will been addressed and some stability has been be circulated nearer the time.The meeting returned to the peat, vegetation will be able will focus on opportunities to get involved to grow and this will begin the healing in conservation, education and archaeology process. However, it will be ten or more on the estate, as well as the usual discussion years before abundant sphagnum flourishes of issues that have arisen over the year. on the site, and even more to get it back to Speaking of which, parking clearly remains the healthy condition which was – and

http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak 3 could once again be – an active part of the environment for its own ends. the UK’s largest terrestrial carbon store Elsewhere on Kinder the main work (that’s what peat is). this year will be on repairs to the fence and If you are climbing in the area – or any particularly to some of the access points area, frankly – and you want to help, please over it which have deteriorated. Nobody do whatever you can to avoid any risk of likes the fence of course, but it is temporary, starting fires, and if you see one, call 999 and it is helping to make the moors better immediately. places. Finding the right balance for conservation is never easy.What was really Access extra heartening though was going out with some Henry Folkard kids on an event associated with the Spirit of Kinder celebration and picking up from Wandering about on Kinder the other them their enthusiasm for looking after day I was alarmed by the number of Sitka the landscape, and the amount they actually seedlings that have taken hold. There were knew about it. I should perhaps rephrase a few less when I got back, but still far too that as ‘their landscape’. Hope for many. Partly they are there because they the future! are not nibbled by sheep, a downside of the The big fire up on Marsden Moor was fence, but mostly because the seed just a disaster. It was started by a barbecue and gets blown in by the wind from the many spread very quickly indeed.The fire brigade surrounding plantations and it germinates was busy putting the Ilkley fire out at the more readily than it used to as the warmer same time, so they were really stretched. climate favours Sitka. The National Trust And besides the damage to the moor, and (NT) does hold volunteer work meets to the burden placed on all those who had to try and keep on top of it, but they need all drop everything and rush up there, one of the help they can get, and if you are out and the NT’s low-impact vehicles went up in about, any little bit helps. If you do pull some flames too – replacement cost in the region out try not to leave the peat disturbed, and of £70,000. if you cut any larger ones down please don’t What might have been? It never hit the leave any stump protruding as this creates headlines that the same weekend NT a trip hazard. rangers put out a further 26 barbecues The battle for the moors goes on. It is before the fires they were generating took really heartening to see the fruits of the hold. Which is where we all have a job as good work the NT and Moors for the the eyes, ears and custodians of the Future have done on the one hand, and then countryside we enjoy. you are horrified as on a recent trog around The review of the Sheffield Moors Snailsden at the sheer number of vehicle Partnership (SMP) document was tracks going everywhere.The only vehicles discussed at a meeting in April and a few to use these tracks are those in association suggestions made for a revised and final with driven grouse shooting, and whatever document that will go to a second meeting you think about that activity, the stark reality, in early June.A number of things are as evidenced on the ground, is that the common across all the moors that make current amount of vehicular use is quite up the Golden Frame irrespective of who simply not sustainable. No recreation owns them – and on the ground that is activity brings with it the right to trash never obvious – and though quite a lot does

4 Peak Area Newsletter June 2019 Griindsbrook Cllough,,Kiinder.. Photo::John Coefiielld..

actually happen under the auspices of SMP, again as a restructuring of the Forestry it lacks any visibility with the general public, Commission raises concerns that this is and perhaps some cohesion within itself. privatisation by the back door, with an Stronger links with Sheffield, the Outdoor emphasis on planting of conifers strictly for City, might be another outcome, but commercial return, with no nod to native resourcing it all, a task shouldered by the broadleaves, recreation or landscape.The NT, is always going to be a problem. BMC did comment last year on plans for On Eastern Moors there is no three forests in the Hope Woodlands/Upper predator control at the moment, and an Derwent area, and another south of evaluation of what there was is taking place. Matlock: it seems we may have to say more. As mentioned earlier finding the right And this just in: the BMC wrote to balance for effective conservation in what the Planning Inspectorate in support of is after all a managed landscape is never easy, the enforcement notice issued by PDNPA as examples from elsewhere illustrate. In the regarding the moorland track at Rushy Cairngorms, should you fence out sheep Dyke Flat/Cartledge Edge. The Planning and deer as one essential control to allow Inspectorate has given its decision: the the Caledonian Forest to regenerate but enforcement notice stands: the track incidentally kill all the black grouse that must go. collide with it; do you rejoice at the pine marten re-establishing itself or lament their decimation of the few surviving capercaillie chicks? Remember the public outcry a few years ago when there was a move to privatise the nation’s forests? This is something to watch

http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak 5 AGM hiillll wallk.. Photo::Spencer Ramsey..

Hill Walking News Moss brought us to the walk’s Peter Judd & Austin Knott high point and extensive views. Dropping down from the top took us past White Hall Peak Area hill walk from Outdoor Centre. Austin had provided us With the BMC’s AGM taking place in Buxton with plenty of useful information to share on Sunday 31 March it was no surprise to along the way, including the story of have the BMC office ask us to provide a hill gritstone climbing pioneer Joe Brown’s walk for the day before. Austin devised a permanent orienteering course, set up lovely route for us (despite not being able to during his time as an instructor here in be with us on the day) and 19 people set off the 1960s.We quickly found the first of from the railway station to walk up the hill two such sets of these permanent markings to Corbar Cross and enjoy the excellent that we were to see during the day, this one views back across the town. The wooden a grid reference (for the next point on the cross itself is quite recent, being a course) chiselled neatly into the Hall’s replacement for a previous cross believed entrance gate post.There are 20 such to have been cut down by someone marked points scattered around an 18-mile protesting about the Catholic Church at course and one of our walkers was able to the time of the Pope’s visit in 2010.A few confirm that all still exist, she having people, with commitments to other BMC hunted them all down not too long ago. meetings later in the day, had to turn back We then headed downhill into the here, including our president Lynn Robinson, GoytValley before climbing over the small but looking at their faces I think more than hump of Bunsal Cob and seeking out a one would have loved to keep going – yet pleasant spot for lunch not far from duty calls! . A further climb up to the edge of Combs From now on, much of our journey

6 Peak Area Newsletter June 2019 followed the track bed of the old is expected later this year. & High Peak Railway, making for a gentle With the BMC’s Board and National climb back up out of the valley. Just before Council both beginning to address the leaving the track bed (to crest the rise, just development of future vision and strategy, short of Buxton’s own ) we the Hill Walking Working Group is very came across the bricked-up entrance to much hoping that continued development Burbage Tunnel and found another of Joe’s of the BMC’s hill walking work will feature orienteering points marked on its entrance strongly. While such development was one wall. Once over the top of the hill all that of the three key aims of the previous BMC remained was to walk down through the (2015–19) strategic plan, we all know well golf course (avoiding the objective danger enough that the BMC’s ability to deliver was of flying golf balls as we went) to re-enter badly sabotaged by the various unexpected the town in time to search for the necessary torpedoes that have hit the organisation in post-walk refreshments! that period. So, becoming ‘the natural home A big thank you to Austin for the route, for hill walkers’ (as that previous strategy Kevin Noon and Martin Wass for the encapsulated its aim) is, I hope most will additional help on the day, to Amanda agree, very much unfinished business. Clifton, who, having joined us for the recce, Couple that with fascinating new evidence unfortunately was prevented from joining provided by Sport ’s most recent us on the day, and last but not least Spence ‘Active Lives’ survey that suggests an Ramsey for acting as ‘official’ photographer extraordinary figure of 2.8 million people for the day. See you all next time, folks? go ‘hill and mountain walking’ regularly BMC Peak Area walks are more than just (they’ve not previously separated out that a chance for a walk, they offer opportunities particular activity grouping in previous to meet other members, network, share surveys), making it clear that hill walking is information and plan future adventures. more ‘popular’ than football, cricket and Do you fancy leading a future Peak Area rugby put together (the same survey found walk? Or maybe your club fancies opening 315,000 go ‘climbing and bouldering’), then up one or more of its own walks to be there seems to be every justification for promoted to other BMC members in the the BMC to continue to prioritise the area (and maybe aiding club recruitment in development of its hill walking work, if for the process)? If so,Austin and Peter would no other reason than to justify our claim be very pleased to hear from you and happy to be the representative body for hill to chat about opportunities and how we walkers (as well as climbers and might help. We ourselves plan something for mountaineers).That participation figure the autumn; keep your eyes on the Peak is then both a challenge and an exciting Area Facebook page and email newsletters. opportunity.

Hill walking on the national BMC scene Dates for your diary: 12 & 13 October The Mend Our Mountains campaign, now in In recent years there's been a Real 3 Peaks the process of being wrapped up, looks to Challenge event on the . It's likely have raised over £710,000 with more and to be on 12 October this year and we're more of the target projects moving into the looking to support it. We're also planning delivery phase. News on the start of work to lead an event in the south-west Peak area on our own two Peak District project paths on 13 October. More details to follow.

http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak 7 Ned Feehalllly on Separate Feehalllliity,,Burbage South.. Photo::Niick Brown..

Climbing News & Gossip and have my eye on an early bedtime. Dave Parry Furthermore, an upshot of the impending deadline is I’ve not got any time to edit or Welcome to an unapologetically rewrite this, so it is being laid down in one perfunctory Peak News update. take. If I write anything then subsequently This edition I have been asked to keep decide I don’t need it, I’ve not left myself it short, for a variety of reasons, with the enough time to do anything about it. With specific intention to reducing the length of that in mind I realise now I may have already the article, and to increase the shortness. shot myself in the foot with these first two So what this column will lack in length it will paragraphs. I now expect to have to resort make up for in a lack of length.There will be to increasingly desperate measures to keep a surfeit of brevity, at the necessary expense the length down. Sorry. of duration.With this in mind, please join me OK, on to the actual content. in enduring a thankfully abridged recent One of my favourite additions recently history of developments in the climbing has been Ned’s ascent of the long-fancied areas of the Peak District. overhanging crack project in the gully behind But before we do, I must also note that the Triangle Face boulder at Burbage South. the intended succinctness of this article Separate Feehality is the name. I don’t know actually suits me fine this time. I’ve left it to what he graded it but have run out of time to the last minute to write (as I, like most of find out now, so I’m guessing Font 8a+? us, have been busy not repeating TheYoung Also at Burbage, Rachael Briggs continues at Callaly) and don’t have much content to to develop some cool-looking bit and bobs, write about, so this saves me from having to with some nice-looking traverses too, mainly pad the piece out with excessively wordy at the far end of Burbage North. She’s introductory paragraphs. I’m also knackered accumulated quite a lot of decent ascents of

8 Peak Area Newsletter June 2019 late and will almost certainly have put this paragraph out of date before I finish typing it so, best just check out her Instagram account @newascents for details. Limestone news, and Frances Bensley has repeated Keen Roof at Raven Tor, and in doing so, hot on the heels of her earlier ascent of Fat Lip (reported last time), earns her the crown of Queen of the Tor, a coveted accolade indeed. Might even be the first female ascent? Hit me up if you know different. Also at the Tor cave, Mat Wright had a strong session repeating Keen Roof Extension and Belly of the Beast. Fans of repeated chalkbag dabs will want to seek out the video of the latter. Mat also repeated Zippy’s F8c testpiece Make it Funky. No back-around on that one, hopefully. Steve Ramsden has done a new E7 at Stanage, the left arête of Tower Chimney. Looks bit run-out, with some crafty footwork. Called Pinch Soma. Video on Instagram. See, I can be brief when I want to be. Mike Adams done 8 Ball finishing up Lunatic. Name Crazy Ball, looks hard, suitors should bring long arms, and the ability to climb Font 8a+/b. Jon Fullwood bits: Compression Sickness, steep prow/roof at far end of Chatsworth, Font 7b. Slab opposite Elmer Fudd at Baslow is now Tex Avery, Font 6c. His son and wad- of-the-future Spike has done a slabby Font 6a arête near Heroes at Baslow. Howshaw, J. Fullwood done Black Rhino finishing left into Inside Out, Font 7b, Rhinos ‘r’ Us. Nige: Chip Shop Scrawl on RHS @ 7b. Haydn: Slap Happy Font 7c+ (Born Slappy sitter), Stanage. Got news? Email us. Bye.

Get in touch Spiike Fullllwood on hiis Send your Peak area news, gossip or article new probllem WADS at Basllow.. ideas to me at: [email protected] Photo::Jon Fullllwood..

http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak 9 Youngsters diispllay theiir badge desiigns iin Wiinnats Pass.. Photo::Peter Judd..

Spirit of Kinder to Moorlands and the BMC (our own Peter Judd Henry Folkard) – worked with groups of local schoolchildren in collaboration with This year’s Spirit of Kinder event took the National Trust to explore and pass on place on 27 April and celebrated the stories of campaign and trespass. Artists 70th anniversary of the National Parks Trish Evans and Nick Humphreys of Instar and Access to the Countryside Act in joined in to help the children design 1949. In addition, it was tied into the fabulous new ‘Freedom to Roam’ badges, NationalTrust’s year of ‘People’s based on walkers’ rucksack badges of old, Landscapes’ initiative ( and mighty colourful they proved to be too! and the trespass story being one of The event was to have taken place in its main themes). Winnats Pass, scene of many campaign While we may think of the trespass story rallies last century, but continuous heavy as being all history, we know there are rain and wind put paid to that. Instead the access and environmental campaigns still to Peveril Centre in Castleton made for a dry, be fought today. It is to our young people warm base. However, that didn’t stop most that we must look to take up these attendees marching up to Winnats first, challenges – their ample capacity to do so where the youngsters unfurled their having most recently been demonstrated by stunningly colourful banners, based on their the examples of climate change campaigner badges, and tried to avoid being blown away and Swedish schoolgirl Greta Thunberg and in the process.We then returned to the series of recent climate action schools Castleton to drink tea and hear from a host strikes. So, in the lead up this year’s event, of high-profile speakers on related themes. so-called ‘trespass elders’ – from The These included: Ramblers, the Sheffield Campaign for Access Lord (David) Blunkett, Ramblers South

10 Peak Area Newsletter June 2019 Yorks & NE Area President, Jarvis Cocker, well-known singer, DJ and who spoke of his joy in hearing skylarks sing local resident, talked about his own first in the Peak District. He’s glad that the experiences of Kinder when orienteering Labour governments he served introduced with school and how he discovered that, such improvements as the CRoW Act 2000, despite being a city boy and so not but regrets not doing more, while he had expecting to, he came to enjoy those the opportunity, about intrusive motorised experiences and value the place. Jarvis is vehicular use of green lanes. heavily involved with a new summer art Hilary McGrady, Director General of the trail and guided walk with ‘artistic surprises’ National Trust, expressed concern about the related to the trespass story that will start accessibility of our national parks to those from station and has been developed without their own transport. She also spoke in association with Jeremy Deller, the about environmental concerns and praised National Trust (and Turner Prize-winning) recent actions by young people such as artist for the Trust’s Peoples’ Landscapes Greta as a sign of hope in that regard. initiative. Jarvis ended by saying he hoped Ruth George, MP for the High Peak this project would,‘encourage people to be constituency, including Castleton, spoke of kind to the landscape, to be kind to the her own pleasure in taking family and even environment.To make them stop, close their her office staff up on to Kinder Scout, but eyes, think for a moment, think how to be expressed concern and a desire to work kinder.Think how to be … Kinder.’ with the national park to do more around Finally, Andrew McCloy, Peak District transport and accessibility. National Park Authority chair, who had Our own President, Lynn Robinson, acted as master of ceremonies for the day, spoke of her personal pleasure in both told us that while the Peak District may be walking and climbing around the Kinder the first UK national park, and also the one plateau over many years. She also drew that negotiated the most access agreements attention to the importance of partnership before the arrival of the CRoW Act, he was working, such as that between BMC and much troubled by the impact of recent 40% national parks (not least the Peak District cuts in the funding received by such parks National Park) through campaigns like Mend and appealed both for more funding and Our Mountains, before going on to speak also for us all to work together to support about Hills 2 Oceans, the BMC’s new and value our national parks. campaign to remove litter from our uplands, Despite the importance of these and call on all of us to not to walk past litter speeches, perhaps the most encouraging that annoys us but to stop, pick it up and aspect of this event was the enthusiasm carry it off the hill (she’d already done just shown by the youngsters who, after listening that carrying off a little litter we’d found to the campaign stories of the elders and at Winnats). displaying their fine badges, showed a real Sue Hayman, MP & Shadow Environment willingness to take on the challenge of Secretary, got a spontaneous round of continuing to protect and enhance our applause when she told the meeting she access rights in years to come. would be calling on the government to declare a ‘climate emergency’ – indeed a motion to that effect was moved by her and passed by parliament just days later.

http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak 11 Kiim Leylland and Mark Anderson near Ballcony Buttress,,Stanage.. Photo::Tomo Thompson..

Nestworking Eastern Moors Partnership centre on Big Tomo Thompson, Friends of the Peak Moor for an afternoon of learning about District & CPRE SouthYorkshire Turdus torquatus, aka the mountain blackbird, aka the ring ouzel.Arrives April Nestworking … or how to put time. Male is like a blackbird wearing a white something back in to the local bib. Female similar but browner in colour, outdoor and environmental and a less distinct bib. community, learn some new stuff, The number of breeding pairs of ring get some headspace, and meet some ouzels decreased by 44–100% during like-minded people. 1979–2009 across 13 study areas across the For many walkers and climbers in the Peak UK.The UK range area of the bird has also District, their first encounter with a ring decreased by 40% over the last 40 years. ouzel might be a picture of one on a board at The amount of information on the training the foot of Burbage, Stanage, Bamford or day was only exceeded by the amount of Froggatt, asking them to avoid climbing on, or cake! Most of the volunteer monitors for walking near, a particular buttress area while the 2019 season were seasoned a sort-of-blackbird-looking bird builds a ornithologists, and for many it was like a home and raises a brood. reunion initiated by a small friend flying in In addition to having seen these notices from Morocco. over previous years, I was also swayed by the A week later there was a whole day of legend that is Bill ‘Mr Stanage’ Gordon and training, again led by ornithologist- his 4,000 years of looking after the ouzels on conservationist-climber-walker-cake- the North Lees Estate (for which he was provider Kim Leyland.The morning was in awarded the British Empire Medal in 2017). the lovely classroom at Longshaw, the So it was that in April I went to the afternoon was on Stanage.We saw nowt

12 Peak Area Newsletter June 2019 until, ending the course in the car park, four there. Cuckoos, curlews, lapwings, birds appeared almost literally behind us. kestrels, ravens and wrens provided Oh no they didn’t. Oh yes they did. the morning chorus. As a newbie monitor, my volunteer role I have been assigned the nest on to begin with was to walk and listen. I did Manchester Buttress at Stanage to monitor. this a lot in Burbage, and a little along Who would build a nest on a climbers’ Stanage. Often alone, sometimes with Kim. descent path on the busiest part of the Beginning to understand these clever little busiest climbing crag at the beginning of the birds, and moreover to begin to understand busy climbing season? If you’re passing at an the crags and valleys that they nest in and unsociable hour of the morning or evening, on. Not running or climbing or cycling do say hello, I’m the one sitting in the grass through them as I regularly do, but, mostly, just downslope, filling my observations form sitting for a few hours. Observant. Still. in.A small jigsaw piece of information, the Almost meditative. In doing so, quietly likes of which Kim receives from a few observing the interaction not only of the dozen volunteers across the area and ouzels and the landscape, but also of humans which he uses to map the nesting and and the landscapes in which the ouzels nest, breeding season of this important one realises fairly quickly that perhaps the little bird. biggest threat to the birds is humans and our use and misuse of landscapes. Support for the ring ouzel programme in the Peak District also comes from the RSPB, the Peak District National Park Authority and the BMC.The BMC involvement ensures that physical signs at the foot of crags and digital notices (social media and the Regional Access Database) inform climbers about the nesting situation. Stanage, for example, is the most popular climbing crag in Britain, with over 1,400 routes. So far this season the birds appear to have eschewed Burbage as a nesting site and taken up several residences along Stanage, as well as Bamford and White Edge. So, at the beginning of May, while wandering along Stanage with Kim and Mark Anderson (the North Lees Estate Warden) I got to see most of the ‘business’ of the ouzel. Close inspection proved that one nest had been predated; another nest near the Plantation had four eggs in it; a couple of birds were seen active back on Manchester Buttress.We removed the access restriction signs from around the predated nest to allow climbers to climb

http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak 13 Boslley Clloud.. Photo::John Coeffiielld..

14 Peak Area Newsletter June 2019 Friends of the Peak District News

The Friends celebrate 95 years Council for the Preservation of Rural After helping the Campaign for National England and, in February 1927, the Parks celebrate the 70th anniversary of the association unanimously voted to accept an creation of our national parks in March and invitation to become affiliated to the CPRE. April, the Friends of the Peak District passed The rest, as they say, is history. its 95th anniversary. Happy Birthday! On 7 May 1924 a few people met in a house in the western suburbs of Sheffield. End of quarry lorry threat Disturbed by the increasing defacement of to Grindleford the beauty of the Peak District by Friends of the Peak District and ‘incongruous and promiscuous development’, campaigners from the local community they had come together to discuss the recently celebrated as quarry owners possible formation of a society for the Stancliffe Stone (part of the Marshalls preservation of local scenery. Group) withdrew a planning application The only formal business conducted at to increase heavy lorries through the village that meeting was the discussion preceding of Grindleford. the decision to form a society, although This marks the end of a long campaign strong feelings were expressed against a against Stancliffe illegally intensifying their proposed new road through Winnats, and it processing operations at a linked set of was arranged that the newly appointed locations including , Rowsley honorary secretary should write about this and Stoke Hall at Grindleford, while to the National Trust. supplying stone for the prestigious Those present at the meeting were Mrs Bloomberg building project in London. Ethel Gallimore, Mr H.B.S Gibbs, Miss ‘We’re really pleased that, working with Moorwoord, Rev. Martin Pope, Dr W.S. Grindleford residents, we’ve been able to Porter (Chair), Miss Porter, Mrs Somerset, send a strong message to Stancliffe that Mr G.H.B.Ward, Gertrude Ward,Alan Ward their plans were unacceptable because of and Mr W.R.White. Invited but unable to significant impacts on road safety and the attend were Mr T.Walter Hall, Mr and Mrs local community,’ said Andy Tickle, head of Samuel Osborn, and Mr Carus Wilson. In his campaigns at Friends of the Peak District. absence Sir Henry Hadow, the then vice The quarry still has permission to extract chancellor of the University of Sheffield. high-quality gritstone for important local and As well as providing the room for the regional building projects, but the new plans meeting in her mother’s house in Endcliffe would have turned the quarry into a regional Vale House, Mrs Ethel Gallimore was elected processing centre, resulting much more to be honorary secretary at the meeting. heavy lorry traffic.‘We are supportive of In July the following year, the society local quarries and the jobs they provide voted to call itself ‘The Sheffield Association when there is an established need for the for the protection of Local Scenery’. In stone,’ added Andy,‘but Stancliffe’s plans December 1926 the honorary secretary were a step too far for a sensitive location attended the inaugural meeting of the in the national park.’

http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak 15 Peak Area Meetings: 2019 All meetings are held at The Maynard, Grindleford, S32 2HE.

12 June, 7.30 p.m. 11 September, 7.30 p.m. 27 November, 7.30 p.m.

Forthcoming Events BMC Peak Area Contacts http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak

BMC/BMMS First Aid & Mountain Peak Area Chair: Rob Greenwood. Medicine Weekend [email protected] 8-9 June, Hathersage Spend Saturday and/or Sunday learning new Secretary: Becky Hammond. skills and join us for a beer, barbecue, and [email protected] talk from BMC Patron and Himalayan legend Mick Fowler on Saturday evening. Peak Area Reps (your voice on the BMC www.thebmc.co.uk/mountain-first-aid- National Council): course David Brown and Alison Cairns. http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak Cliffhanger & the British Bouldering Championships Access Reps Co-ordinators: 6-7 July, Sheffield Henry Folkard and Louise Hawson. Cliffhanger and the BBCs are back in [email protected] Sheffield for another year. [email protected] www.theoutdoorcity.co.uk/cliffhanger Peak Area Hill Walking Reps: Women'sTrad Festival Peter Judd and Austin Knott. 2-4 August, venueTBC [email protected] Women's Trad Festival is a trad climbing [email protected] festival in the Peak District, bridging the gap between indoor and outdoor climbing. It Peak Area Newsletter Editorial: supports, connects and inspires climbers of Dave Parry and John Coefield. all abilities, ages and genders. [email protected] www.womenstradfestival.co.uk

The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) is the representative body that exists to protect the freedoms and promote the interests of climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers, including ski-mountaineers. Find out more: www.thebmc.co.uk/bmc-governance