TEX TILE VALUE CHAIN www.textilevaluechain.com December 2017 Volume 5 Issue 12

Interview : CTMA / SAG Market Report : / Apparel Index / Surat Sustainable Fibre : Milk Brand Update : Liva/ Beaulieu / Biba / Uster Technical Article : Control Techniques for Noise Pollution in Industry: An Overview Fashion Tips

Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707 Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2015-17 published on 5th of every month, TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar- 75, posting date 29/30 of month | Pages 40 2 www.textilevaluechain.com December 2017 3 December 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com YEARS

India's Leading Manufacturer & Exporter of

Torrey Twister

GRIPPERS Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/Somet RAPIER TAPES Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/Somet

TEMPLE RINGS/ROLLERS TEMPLES

4 www.textilevaluechain.com December 2017 5 December 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com SKBS SHREE BALAJI SYNFABS

MR.SURESH SARAF MR. NAYAN SARAF

Contact: Suresh Saraf+91 9322 50 4449 / +91 9322 10 4449 | Nayan Saraf - +91 7498 88 1400 Office Landline - 91-22-6002 0119 / 9699 25 8834

Email : [email protected] | [email protected] [email protected] | Website : www.shreebalajisynfabs.com 6 Address: Room No.-17, Ground Floor, 342 Kalbadevi Road, Mumbai- 400002 www.textilevaluechain.com December 2017 SKBS CONTENT 9- ECONOMY UPDATE: Key risk events loom as we bid adieu to 2017 by Mr. Abhishek Goenka, IFA Global SHREE BALAJI SYNFABS MARKET REPORT 11- Yarn Report 14- CMAI Apparel Index 15- Surat update December 2017 ISSUE 17- SUSTAINABLE FIBRE: Clothing from Milk Fibre

EDITORIAL TEAM 19- TECHNICAL ARTICLE: control techniques for noise pollution in Editor and Publisher textile industry by Dr. V.D. Gotmare, VJTI, Mumbai Ms. Jigna Shah 23- EVENT REPORT : TEXPROCIL Annual Award Consulting Editor Mr. Avinash Mayekar 24- GOVT. POLICY: Cabinet approves “ scheme for capacity building Graphic Designer in Sector” Mr. Anant A. Jogale BRAND UPDATE Sales Manager Mr. Md. Tanweer 25- Liva Editorial Assistant 26- Beaulieu Yarns Mrs. Namsha T. 27- BIBA Apparels 28- USTER INDUSTRY Mr. Devchand Chheda NEWS City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group) 10- Splash Introduces sustainable intelligent garments powered Mr. Manohar Samuel by N9 Pure Silver President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries 10- Picanol group employees raise 10,675 euros for kinderkan Dr. M. K. Talukdar kerfonds VP, Kusumgar Corporates 16- SIMA hails the Scheme for Capacity Building in Textile Sector Mr. Shailendra Pandey 29- 22nd AEPC Export Awards 2016-17 presentation ceremony VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian 30- ‘Best Industry-Linked Technical Institute-2017 Award For –DKTE Mr. Ajay Sharma 30- COLORANT Ltd ,Ahmedabad sponsors SDC Technical Sem¬inar GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group) –Bhiwandi held at Thane West ( Maharastra) 31- Rupa & Company To Launch ‘Fruit Of The Loom’ Inner¬wear EDUCATION / RESEARCH Brand In India Soon Mr. B.V. Doctor 31- Alcis Sports Launches First Mono-Brand Store In Kochi HOD , SASMIRA 34- The Mid-Tem Review of Foreign Trade Policy 2015-20 is disap- Dr. Ela Dedhia pointing for the manmade fibre textile segment Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College 34- Woods Apparel To Get Separate Stores For Its Fashion & Casual Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Wear Professor, Dean ICT Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay 36 - FASHION TIPS Principal Scientist and Head MPD 33- SHOW CALENDAR Dr. Rajan Nachane Retired Scientist, CIRCOT INTERVIEW MR.SURESH SARAF MR. NAYAN SARAF 35- China Textile Machinery Association participates in ITMACH 2017 Delhi Representative office : 36- SAG : Dilip Patel, Vice President and Bhavesh Thakar, Secretary Mr. Sudhir Verma General Knit Experts 242, Pocket 3, Advertiser Index Sector 23, Near Max Fort School, Rohini, New Delhi- 110085 Back Page : Raymond Page 5: ITF –Dubai Contact: Email : [email protected] Back Inside : RSWM Page 6: SKBS Suresh Saraf+91 9322 50 4449 / +91 9322 10 4449 | Nayan Saraf - +91 7498 88 1400 Tel : +91-9818026572 Front Inside : Raysil Page 37: Vora Associate Office Landline - 91-22-6002 0119 / 9699 25 8834 Page 3: SGS Innovation Page 38: Non Woven Page 4: Sanjay Plastic Tech Asia Email : [email protected] | [email protected] [email protected] | Website : www.shreebalajisynfabs.com 7 Address: Room No.-17, Ground Floor, 342 Kalbadevi Road, Mumbai- 400002 December 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com EDITORIAL

Glimpse of 2017 which changed textile industry

ndian Government introduced long awaited new Tax structure ie. Good and Service Tax (GST) this year, textile being dominated by SME sector, many textile cluster got rejection from this organised tax structure. Surat clus- Iter closed for almost 1 month to show their non acceptance of GST and lost crores of rupees and this created huge unemployment which caused daily wage worker migrated to other industry for their employment which caused Scarcity of worker in textile industry. Rebate of State Levies (ROSL) introduced this year to support export of garment and made ups outwards ship- ment, introduced at 1.55% later changed to 2.20%. MEIS (Merchandise Exports from India Scheme) upgraded incentive structure from 2% to 4%. Gujarat Government announced Textile Policy 2017, aims to target garment industry with USD 250mn investment over the next 5 years and targeting 1lakh creation of new jobs under Gar- ment Package. Textile Ministry organised the Trade Exhibition in Gandhinagar, capital of Gujarat in middle of the year with the purpose of integrating entire textile value chain segment and promote business of the industry by minimum cost. Textile Sector Skill Council got the award of “Champion Sector Skill council” for its outstanding work in es- tablishing skill training ecosystem for textile and handloom industry. New Development strategies from government have been incorporated for giving new breath and promote , and handloom industry. New Fashion designer has been encouraged to tie-up directly with handloom clus- ters. CMAI (Clothing Manufacturer Association of India) and PDEXCIL (Powerloom Development & Export Promotion Council), two major Garment and Fabric association tie up for integration of value chain which will boost the powerloom sector as a whole. Donear group acquired GBTL (Grasim Bhiwani Textile Limited) and OCM Woolen Mills. Above are few highlights which will change the future of textile industry in coming years. We wish our industry contribute Productive and Positive in New year 2018..!!! Ms. Jigna Shah Editor and Publisher

All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of Registered Office Owner, Publisher, Printer and any of the content from this issue is prohibited Innovative Media and Information Co. Editor without explicit written permission of the 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ms. Jigna Shah publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400075. Printed and Processed by her at, and present factual and accurate information. Maharashtra, INDIA. Impression Graphics, The views expressed in the articles published in Tel : +91-22-21026386 this magazine are that of the respective authors Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Cell: +91-9769442239 and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Andheri Kurla Road, Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely Email: [email protected] Sakinaka, Andheri (East), errors that might occur or any steps taken [email protected] Mumbai 400072, based in the information provided herewith. Web: www.textilevaluechain.com Maharashtra, India.

8 www.textilevaluechain.com December 2017 ECONOMY UPDATE Key Risk Events Loom As We Bid Adieu to 2017

Heading into 2018, we are in a phase of synchronized glob- US Federal Reserve’s reaction function and may cause it al growth. Business sentiment and consumer confidence to normalize policy sooner than currently anticipated. The is on the rise, generally across major economies 2017 has markets would look forward to the FOMC meet on 13th been an exceptional year for risk assets, especially equi- December to ascertain if there is any change in median ties. Major equity indices have hit new all time highs. Low dots (indicating expected trajectory of Fed Funds rate of inflation and wage growth in developed economies, un- FOMC members). The US Dollar could rally if median dot characteristic of this phase of economic cycle has allowed plot indicates four hikes in 2018 compared to three in the central banks to withdraw accommodation gradually. As September dot plot. According to the latest non-farm pay- a result, global liquidity has been chasing yields and this roll report, the economy added a higher than expected, has resulted in a phenomenal rally in emerging market 228,000 jobs in November and unemployment rate re- stocks, bonds and therefore currencies. There is quite a mained constant at 4.1% well below the NAIRU (non accel- bit in store for the remainder of 2017 that could set the erating inflation rate of unemployment). However wage tone for risk sentiment in 2018. growth continues to remain tepid. This suggests that most of the jobs that are being added are the ones in industries On the global front, the Congress passed a stop gap where median wages are low. measure that has pushed the US debt-ceiling deadline to 22nd December. The bone of contention between the On the domestic front, Q2 GDP came in at 6.3% (com- Democrats and the Republicans to keep the government pared to Q1 print of 5.7%). Particularly encouraging is the from shutting down is hike in the non-defense spending pick up in manufacturing activity. Average manufacturing cap (that the Democrats are in favor of). The Democrats PMI in Q3 FY18 has been higher than Q2 FY18 which sug- want hike in defense spending to be matched by a simi- gests that Q3 growth numbers could be even better. New lar hike in domestic spending. Democrats are pushing export orders component of manufacturing PMI has also for legal status for undocumented immigrants who were broken its declining trend, which implies exports would brought to the US as children and for continuing funding be less of a drag on growth in Q3 unlike Q1 and Q2. In of Obama care insurers. Republicans would need some October the core sector comprising of eight key industries Democrat votes to pass the spending bill for the next two grew 4.7%, unchanged from August. Inflation is likely to years in the Senate. That would entail some sort of a com- continue firming up gradually on the back of higher food promise on either or both of these contentious issues. and fuel prices but will continue to remain within RBI’s comfort zone. The RBI kept monetary policy unchanged The developments around the tax bill would also be ex- in a 5-1 vote in its December policy meeting with one MPC tremely crucial. Both, the House and the Senate have member voting for a rate cut. The market senses that with passed their respective versions of the bill but the chal- global crude prices sustaining above USD 55 per barrel lenge lies in reconciling both the versions, as there are mark we could have seen the last of rate cuts in the cur- considerable differences. The Republicans would have rent easing cycle and that the RBI would keep rates on to chalk out a final plan and both the House and Senate hold in the foreseeable future. The benchmark 10y yield would have to pass that plan again. The Senate is con- has been rising and touched 7.20% in trade as market strained by the Byrd Rule according to which the tax bill prices in no further rate cuts and takes cognizance of the can only increase the federal deficit by up to USD 1.5 Tn fact that global rates could also head higher in 2018 due in the first 10 years and by nil thereafter. Therefore, many to increase in supply as central banks trim asset purchas- of the sops proposed in the Senate version are set to es and reduce balance sheet size, Though the trade deficit fade out from 2025 onwards. The house bill on the other is likely to widen on account of higher crude import bill hand is likely to increase the federal budget deficit after and weaker exports, the overall balance of payment situa- 10 years according to CBO (Congressional Budget Office) tion is likely to remain comfortable if FPIs do not turn making it unviable under Byrd Rule in the Senate. This is sellers of Indian debt and equity. Drawdowns related to the biggest difference besides many other smaller ones foreign currency funding availed by corporates has kept a pertaining to start date for corporate tax cuts, mortgage lid on up side in USD/INR in the recent past. deductions, Child tax credit, Obamacare’s individual man- date etc. The impact on the USD and US rates would de- The key risk on the domestic front in the near term would pend on whether the final plan has deficit funded tax cuts be the outcome of the Gujarat state elections. Exit polls in- or deficit neutral tax reform with the former likely to push dicate a strong show by BJP in the first phase. While a BJP USD and US rates significantly higher and the later not victory is largely priced in, any underperformance would changing status quo much. be negative for domestic stocks, bonds and the Rupee. Deficit funded tax plan would most likely elicit a change in Considering that the Gujarat elections do not spring any

9 December 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com ECONOMY UPDATE major positive or negative surprise (i.e. a modest vic- tory for the BJP), the Rupee could end the calendar year in 64.35-64.65 range. The key risk in 2018 for domestic markets would stem from union budget, crude prices, and most importantly US rates. The way US rates pan out would depend to a great extent on the contours of the final tax plan. Tail Risk could stem from developments in Middle east, Korean Peninsula and Italian elections. Mr. Abhishek Goenka (CEO & Founder : IFA Global)

NEWS SPLASH introduces Sustainable intelligent garments pow- ered by N9 Pure Silver TM Splash Fashions, a global leader for fast-fashion retail will loading properties that makes this technology the ideal be launching anti-bacterial garments powered by N9 Pure solution for garment treatments. The technology is com- SilverTM at all outlets across the Middle East. The technol- patible with multiple substrates and processes, and pro- ogy aims to enable garments to fight against odor causing vides long-lasting freshness and malodor control. bacteria. Owing to the fact of a growing hygiene quotient Textile materials do not have any inherent antimicrobial in consumer perspectives, Splash Fashions looks to inject properties. The natural properties of textile provide this technology through their range of lounge wear, men’s room for the growth of microorganisms due to sweat. Hu- inner wear and socks. mid and warm environments further aggravate the prob- Speaking on Splash’s association with N9 Pure Silver Mr. lem. Staining and the loss of performance of textile sub- Raza Beig, Director, Landmark Group & CEO, Splash, strates is a result of microbial attack. The N9 Pure SilverTM ICONIC & Landmark International, said, “Bacteria on finish is applied to textiles with the intention to protect garments can no longer be ignored by consumers and the wearer from malodor and the textile substrate from brands. This thought in itself has created the demand for degradation. The potential presented by N9 Pure SilverTM smarter garments and being at the forefront of giving our is immense. From articles of daily use, such as clothing, customer the best, we have brought this unique feature and bed , to food packaging and hair care - the op- to the Middle Eastern market and chose to partner with portunities are vast, making it an ideal solution for several N9 Pure Silver which is a globally recognized anti-bacterial industries. N9 Pure Silver™ also finds very interesting con- technology” sumer applications on textiles as well as other non-textile substrates such as plastic packaging materials which can N9 Pure SilverTM, is a revolutionary Silver based Anti-bac- be made more hygienic. Cosmetics can be preserved and terial technology that acts by controlling the growth of their antimicrobial properties can be enhanced. Shoes odour-causing bacteria on garments, making sure wear- and leather articles can be made odour free and safe to ers stay fresh and productive all day. N9 Pure SilverTM is touch using N9 Pure SilverTM. sustainable, non-leaching, zero VOC and has low Silver

NEWS Picanol Group employees raise 10,675 euros for Kinder- kankerfonds

Last week, the Picanol Group employees in Ypres organ- Kinderkankerfonds, a charity selected by our employees ized a winter event for the occasion of De Warmste Week that provides financial and psychological support to chil- of Music for Life. dren with cancer and their families. Many colleagues organized an activity, such as the elec- We are therefore very proud that together we managed tronic horse race of PsiControl, the VJ-jukebox, the sale to raise no less than 7,116 euros for Kinderkankerfonds. of laser Christmas trees (Proferro), toasted sandwiches, Given the success of all these activities, Picanol Group de- a Jenever bar, sausages, Soup4Life and much more. All cided to increase this amount to 10,675 euros. of these warm actions were aimed at raising money for

10 www.textilevaluechain.com December 2017 YARN REPORT YARN PRICE WATCH REPORT

POLYESTER CHAIN filament yarn prices jumped in China in Novem- ber on the back of low inventory and rigid needs.Trading Ethylene prices in Asian markets inched up in November atmosphere was favorable, as downstream mills mod- supported by healthy Chinese demand ahead of the 2018 erately increased their procurement in the face of rising term discussions and due to rising upstream values. In PFY prices. In India, PFY prices were stable in local cur- US, ethylene spot prices fell during the month amid re- rency but inched up in US$ terms during the month. In starting crackers and recently completed downstream Pakistan, PFY offers were firm during the month. In China, capacity. In Europe, spot ethylene prices slipped as buy- POY 75/72 prices were up US cents 6 a kg at US$ 1.48-1.49 ers had stock, bought earlier in the year. Prices averaged a kg in Shengze while Indian POY 130/34 prices were up US$ 1,161.00-1,163.00 a ton CFR SE Asia, up 0.6% from US cent 1 at US$ 1.47 a kg. In Pakistan, 300/96 DTY prices October while European spot fell 6.1% to average Euro were at US$ 0.60-0.70 a pound, unchanged on the month. 969.90-974.90 a ton FD NWE. US spot prices were down Polyester staple fibre prices inched up in China during the 2.6% on the month to average US cents 27.45-27.95 per month supported by firm raw material cost, decent de- pound FD USG. Paraxylene prices in Asia were upduring mand and limited supply. In Pakistan, PSF was offered at the month on strong feedstock values and increasing a higher price during the month amid strong demand in demand in the region. In Europe, spot paraxylene prices polyester market. In India, PSF offers were revised up in rose to seven-month high in November, reflecting higher November. In China, 1.4D PSF was at US$ 1.36-1.39 a kg, prices in Asia. In US, paraxylene prices inched up on tight largely stable as compared to October. In India, 1.2D PSF supply in the region. Asian marker, the CFR China aver- prices were at US$ 1.34 per kg, up US cents 3 from last aged US$ 896.40 a ton, up 5.4% from last month while month. In Pakistan, prices in Karachi were at US$ 1.29- European paraxylene rose 5.4% to US$ 807.20 a ton FOB 1.31 a kg, up US cents 2 on the month. Rotterdam. In US, spot paraxylene was at US $830 a ton FOB USG, up 2.5% on the month. CHAIN Mono ethylene glycol prices in Asia gained in November Benzene markets in Asia hit an eight-month high in No- amid high feedstock values and limited supply in the re- vember on strong buying interest and high upstream gion. In US, spot MEG prices declined on slow demand. prices. In US, spot benzene prices jumped on tight prompt European mono-ethylene glycol spot prices slipped dur- supply during the month. Supply in the US has been tight ing the month amid balanced market fundamentals. MEG since late October due to regional plant outages. In Eu- prices averaged US$ 902.40-909.00 a ton FOB SE Asia, up rope, benzene spot market rose as significant volumes 1.7% in November while European spot was at Euro 930 were still being shipped to the US where supply contin- a ton NWE FCA, down 2.1% on the month. US spot was at ued to be tight. Asian marker, FOB Korea surged 7.8% in US$ 1,074-1,084 a ton FOB USG, fell 6.1% on the month. November to average US$ 846.60-847.60 a ton while US Purified terephthalic acid prices in Asia rose during the spot prices were up 15.8% to US cents 333.35-333.45 per month on lim- gallon FOB USG. European spot rose 15.9% to average ited supply US$ 922.20-923.20 a ton CIF ARA and US$ 928.10-929.10 a due to plant ton FOB Rotterdam, up 16.7% on the month. Caprolactum shutdowns prices in Asia were up amid modest buying interest from amid brisk the downstream. Domestic run rate was at 76.2% during demand. In the month. China’s Juhua is planning to shut its 100,000 Europe, PTA tons per year CPL line from mid-December for mainte- prices were nance which may last 15 days.Asian caprolactam spot up on tight prices averaged US$ 2,016.00-2,110.00 a ton in Novem- supply. Prices ber, up 6.1% from last month.Sinopec raised November averaged US$ nomination 695.00-702.00 to US$ 2,587 a ton CFR China, up 6.3% from October while European a ton while Fi- price was at Euro 679a ton FD NWE, up 1.9% on the month. brant raised Polyester chip prices in Asia inched up on the back of high November r PTA and MEG cost. In China, semi dull chip prices were up nomination bolstered by positive margins, strong demand and con- to US$ 2,603 trollable inventory.Offers for semi dull chips was up0.7% a ton for liq- to US$ 1,172-1,181a ton and super bright chip jumped uid goods. 2.6% to US$ 1,194-1,200 a ton.

11 December 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com YARN REPORT

Nylon or polyamide chip prices were up in November hiked for the month reacting to the recent up trends in the supported by firmness in caprolactum market. Produc- ACN market. However, downstream converters reflected ers operated at slightly lower rates as compared to last lackluster appetite for acrylic yarn currently, and coupled month. However, as downstream buyers purchased cau- with high cost, they showed limited interest for ASF. The tiously, pressure on the supply side still existed, especially industrial run rate was at 76% during the month, so sup- for high-priced bright and semi-dull nylon-6 chips. Offers ply remained stable. In India, ASF prices continued the up- for Taiwan-origin chips averaged US$ 2,350-2,380 a ton, ward trend this month on persistent tightness in supply. up 5% from last month. In China, bright conventional In Pakistan, ASF prices was revised up during the month spinning nylon-6 chips were priced at US$ 2,619-2,833, taking cues from other markets in the region. In China, down 6.9% from October while semi-dull chips were of- offers for -type staple were up US cents 9 at US$ fered at US$ 2,833-2,891 a ton, up 0.3% on the month. Ny- 2.59-2.68 a kg and medium-length staple rose US cents lon filament yarn prices inched up amid firm raw material 10 at US$ 2.60-2.68 a kg. Sinopec Chemicals issued its De- cost during the month. Market largely remained range cember contracts for ASF with 1.5D at 17.25-17.60 Yuan a bound supported by chip cost and modest demand. Buy- kg (US$ 2.61-2.66 a kg) and medium length ASF at 17.30- ers followed up actively, however high offers could hardly 17.65 Yuan a kg (US$ 2.62-2.67 a kg). Indian offers for ASF attract the interest. Industrial run rate was at 78%, with were up INR 7 at INR 171.50-172.50 a kg (US$ 2.564-2.65 capacity at around 3.5 million tons a year. Demand was a kg, up US cents 11). In Pakistan, 1.2D ASF prices were at on a need-to basis. In China, semi-dull FDY70D/24F was US$ 2.41 a kg, up US cents 30 on the month. traded at US$ 3.43-3.55 a kg, up US cents 2 from previous VISCOSE CHAIN month while FDY40D were at US$ 3.66-3.78 a kg, up US cents 8. Viscose staple fibre prices declined in November on mod- est buying ACRYLIC CHAIN sentiment of Propylene prices in Asia fell in November amid ample market par- availability and weak buying interest in the region.In ticipants as Europe, bal- downstream anced-to- mills still lengthening showed low spot availabil- interest with ity softened sidelined spot price stance. In trend during China, offers the month. In for VSF aver- US, spot pro- aged US$ 2.24 a kg, down US cents 17on the month.In pylene prices Pakistan, VSF prices fell during the month. Prices in India were stable to rolled over during the month. In Pakistan, 1.5D VSF prices up amid decreasing inventories, leading to tight supply. fell US cents 5at US$ 2.18 a kg. In India, producers’ prices Asian marker, FOB Korea averaged US$ 895.36-897.36 were at US$ 2.29 a kg, up US cents 2from last month. Vis- a ton, fell5.1% from October, and CFR China was at US$ cose filament yarn prices in Asian markets were largely 944.80-946.80 a ton, down4.1% from previous month. In unchanged during the month. In China, viscose filament Europe, CG propylene declined 4.3% to Euro776.40-780.40 yarn offers were stable despite slightly weak viscose sta- a ton FD while spot polymer-grade propylene prices in US ple fibre cost. VFY prices were firm amid modest liquid- were at US$ 44.67-45.17 per pound ton FD, nearly flat on ity and balanced fundamentals. Downstream converters the month. Acrylonitrile prices in Asian markets moved up generally purchased according to their own plans, and as slightly, however, tightness of supply was easing some- a result demand moved slightly. In India, viscose filament what amid plant restarts and relatively high run rates. In yarn prices were firm amid decent demand. In China, US, spot ACN prices weakened on increasing availability 120D dull VFY offers inched up US cent1 at US$ 6.01 a kg amid seasonal downturn in demand. In Europe, acryloni- while bright also up US cent 1at US$ 5.93 a kg. In India, trile prices were up taking cues from Asian markets.Euro- 120D bright VFY was at US$ 5.62a kg, up US cents 3 from pean prices inched up 2% to US$ 1,879.00-1,883.00 a ton previous month. Offers for hardwood pulp and softwood CIF Med while US export assessments averaged at US$ pulp were at US$ 915-930 a ton and US$ 980 a ton respec- 1,801.00-1,811.00 a ton USG, down 2.7% on the month. tively. Asian marker, the CFR Far East Asia climbed1.5% to aver- COTTON age US$ 1,961. 40-1,973.00 a ton. US cotton futures gained in November supported by short Acrylic staple fibre prices marched north in the Asian covering after the monthly crop supply and demand re- markets of China, India and Pakistan. In China, ASF offers port from the US government. Prices were also bolstered

12 www.textilevaluechain.com December 2017 YARN REPORT by strong buying amid December options expiry and mill tober. In India, 30 polyester knit yarns were at US$ 2.05 a fixations. Cotton was moving up because all the commod- kg, fell US cents 12 in Ludhiana market. In Pakistan, 30s ities were going up. The March contract on ICE Futures US spun polyester was at US$ 2.55 a kg, up US cents 2 on gained 3.7% for the month to average US cents 70.33. The the month. Viscose spun yarn prices declined in China in Cotlook A index inched up 3.3% closing November at an tandem with falling viscose staple prices. In Pakistan, average of US cents 80.73 per pound. The China Cotton viscose spun yarn prices edged down with relatively lower was down 0.3% on the month at 15,943.40 Yuan a ton. level of demand at the end of the season. In India, viscose In Pakistan, cotton prices surged amid hectic buying by spun yarn prices were revised down during the month. In spinners. However, slow arrival of phutti (seed cotton) re- Xiaoshan, 30s spun viscose were at US$ 2.86 a kg, down stricted the trading volume. The official spot rate averaged US cents 10 in the month. In India, 30s viscose prices were at Pak Rs 6,625.00 per month ex-Karachi, up 5% on the at US$ 2.67 a kg, down US cents 2 in Ludhiana market. In month. In India, cotton prices rose on the month due to Pakistan, 35s viscose yarn fell US cents 12 at US$ 2.89 a fall in output as the crops were found to be infested with kg in Karachi. pink bollworms. India is expected to export early one-fifth Blended yarn less cotton as compared to previous estimations. Most prices were varieties saw prices rise 0.2-4.1% in November. steady in Chi- SPUN YARN na, fell in In- dia while they Cotton yarn markets in November rolled over in China in rose in Paki- line with overall stability in cotton market. Market senti- stan during ment was firm amid moderate transactions during the the month. In month. As cotton yarn market saw moderate transac- China, offers tions, and most orders were for short-term use, produc- for PC yarn ers did not hold enough confidence on market sentiment and PV yarn in the future. In India, cotton yarn prices remained un- prices largely remained unchanged in November. How- changed at the previous month’s level despite the new ever, PC yarn prices fell in US$ terms as the local cur- rise in cotton prices. In Pakistan, cotton fibre and yarn rency was weak while US$ was strong during the month. prices moved in tandem with each other this month. Cot- In India, PV yarn offers declined during the month while ton fiber prices rose sharply while yarn prices were also PC yarn prices also edged down. In Pakistan, poly-cotton up, with demand still remaining very strong. In China, 32s prices inched up while poly-viscose prices were stable dur- carded cotton yarn in Shengze market was stable at US$ ing the month. Prices increase was limited due to slow do- 3.48-3.55 a kg while 21s combed were at US$ 3.33-3.40 a mestic and international demand. In India, PC 30s (52/48) kg, up US cents 2 from October. In India, 30s combed for were at US$ 2.62 a kg in Ludhiana market, down US cent knitting were at US$ 2.95 a kg, down US cents 2 on the 1 from last month while PV 30s (65/35) were at US$ 2.39 a month. In Pakistan, 20s carded yarn was at US$ 2.82 a kg, kg, up US cent 1 from last month. In Pakistan, PC 30s were up US cents 10 on the month while 30s carded were at flat at US$ 2.66 a kg on the Faisalabad market. In Qianqing US$ 3.17 a kg, up US cents 4 from previous month. market, polyester-cotton 32s (65/35) were traded at US$ Polyester spun yarn prices in November jumped in China 2.66 a kg, unchanged on the month while 45s (65/35) yarn over a new rise in polyester staple fiber prices. In India, were at US$ 3.60 a kg, rolled over on the month. spun polyester yarn prices continued the downtrend this month and have lost INR 18 per kg in the last eight weeks. ALIYAN MIRZA In Pakistan, polyester yarn prices were up in line with YarnsandFibers.com (YnFx) increasing PSF cost. In Shengze, offers for 32s polyester yarn were at US$ 2.04-2.05 a kg, up US cents 3 from Oc- ‘‘ I can’t change the direction of the wind, but I can adjust my sails to always reach my destination. ”

‘‘ Put your heart, mind, and soul into even your smallest acts. This is the secret of success. ”

13 December 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com MARKET REPORT CMAI APPAREL INDEX A report on CMAI’s Apparel Index for Q2 as it dips to 1.87 points, GST impacts business sen- timent and Giant Brands thrive on.

Q2 is the first quarter post-GST. And much like other sec- RISING INVENTORY HOLDINGS A BANE tors, apparel brands and retailers too were busy putting The index clearly reflects a strong correlation between GST processes in place and sales suffered a big blow. July Sales Turnover and Inventory Holding which impacts In- was the first month when the industry emerged after vestments. This quarter, the biggest effect was from GST, clearing pre-GST inventories. Interestingly, GST augured as brands across the board looked at ways to reduce its well for organised players, as bigger brands and organ- impact. As Sunil ized players were quick to adapt, and this is evident in the Apparel Index of various brand groups. Bigger the Kumar, Proprietor, Blueman explains, “The reason why brand group, higher the growth in this quarter.Giant our inventory holding increased is due to GST. The market Brands (turnover above R300 crores) clocked in 8.72 slowed down and stocks had to be held. The other reason points, followed by Large Brands at 6.65 and Mid Brands is, now there are plenty of ayers in the same segment and 1.25 points; Small Brands which are generally managed common itemsare available, so demand is low.” by owners singlehandedly, recorded the lowest index Agrees Nirmal, Owner, Detail Clothing, “The reason for a growth of just 0.29 points. dip in our turnover is the market is slow since GST was BIG BRANDS STAY POSITIVE DESPITE GST incorporated. The parties whom we take orders from are disturbed. People doing job work stopped work- CMAl’s overall Apparel Index in Q2 was 1.87 points. The ing, Customers reduced demand or material and stocks figure is almost 6.5 times higher than the index value for werestopped. Retail sales decreased.” Small Brands (turnovers of Rs 10 to 25 crores) which is at 0.29 points. The index for Mid Brands (turnovers of This quarter nearly, 43 per cent brands reported an in- R25-100 crores) is 1.25 points, and the overall index is crease in Sales Turnover. It must, however, be noted, that 1.5 times higher than this figure. However, at 6.65 points, since GST came into force from July 1, EOSS continued in Large Brands’ growth is almost 3.5 times higher than the the month of July in spite of major EOSS in the month of overall index. But as always, it’s the Giant Brands that June (pre-GST), boosting sales turnover. Hence, the fig- have led growth in Q2, much like earlier quarters with ures seem more inflated than actual sales growth. And a significant 8.72 points. Giant Brands have consistently as Usha Periasamy, Director-Operations & Brand, Classic been doing well every quarter.Notably, the index value Polo opines, “Yes, there is an incremental jump over last for Giants Brands is 4.66 times higher than the Overall year in sales turnover and sell through for our brand. The Index. primary reason is the design component clubbed with market expansion. It’s a blessing in disguise for all value Giant Brands managed a fabulous 8.72 points growth for money brands post the erratic commercial/ economic and increased Sales Turnover to 5.8 points.Comparative- policy changes, which have also added a certain throttle ly, Large Brands Sales Turnover grew 4.4 points and Mid to the business, while overall market sentiments are a not Brands Sales Turnover grew a meager 0.8. Small Brands, so favourable for premium and luxury brands in India.” the laggards, recorded a negative Sales Turnover which was -0.8 points, this quarter. Overall, the Index Value, this Inventory duration increased by 54 per cent across all quarter,saw most dynamism from Sales Turnover, other brand groups. Samir Patel, Owner, Deal Jeans explains, attributes like Sell Through, Inventory Holding and fresh “The reason for an increase in our inventory holding is not Investments reflected a much lesser change. because of the market slowdown. It is more because we have increased the variety of items therefore, there are Q2 Apparel Index clearly indicates, once more, that Gi- more products and inventory holding has gone up.” ant Brands have outdone Large, Mid and Small Brands. Small and Mid Brands could manage little growth in Sales A comparison between Small and Big Brands indicate, Turnover, perhaps because the GST implementation pro- the gap between Big and Small brands is the widest ever cess stalled or reduced deliveries during these months. in this quarter, indicating Small Brands need to buck up Giant and Large Brands being more organised and better and work to put their processes in place under the cur- connected with organised retail through MBOs, EBOs and rent GST regime. Large Format Stores managed their business and sales “Our Investments have increased as we have a huge stock turnover well. Moreover, they increased sales turnovers of new arrivals. We wanted to make the market aware of significantly at 5.8 and 4.4 points respectively our inventory strength. Hence, to create brand aware- ness, we have spent more on advertisements to capture the market,” avers Hemant Jaiswal, Business Head, Body-

14 www.textilevaluechain.com December 2017 MARKET REPORT care Creation. ers, stake holders and policy makers the index is a useful tool offering concrete and credible information, and is an AVERAGE OUTLOOK FOR NEXT QUARTER excellent source for assessing the performance of the in- While there may still be a sense of optimism about overall dustry. The business especially among bigger brands, nearly 48 per Index is analyzed by assessing the performance on four cent brands have said their outlook for next quarter is parameters: Sales Turnover, Sell Through (percentage of average. Another 36 per cent feel the outlook is ‘Good’. fresh stocks sold), number of days of Inventory Holding And only 9 per cent foresee an ‘excellent’ outlook. At the and Investments (signifying future confidence) in brand same time, 7 per cent also feel it will be ‘Below Average’. development and brandbuilding. The Apparel Index It may be noted that generally, Q3 of the financial year, is seen as the best quarter as most festivals and wed- dings fall during this period, brands expect an average to a good season, coupled with almost dry supply chain and shelves in quest of fresh goods, post first quarter of GST. POINTERS Consumers too, are expected to return to stores, GST and ƒ Q2 Apparel Index reflects little buoyancy in business. new processes would be settled in especially by Oct-Nov and this augurs well for business. ƒ Index falls to 1.87 this quarter compared to 2.77 in Q1. CMAl’s Apparel Index aims to set a benchmark for the en- ƒ Q2 is the first quarter post GST. tire domestic apparel industry and help brands in taking ƒ informed businessdecisions. For investors, industry play- Bigger the brand group, higher the ƒ Apparel Index Cumu- Small Mid Large Giant growth, in this quarter Giant Brands clocked in the highest index at 8.72 points. lative ƒ Small Brands recorded the lowest index growth at Total Brands 100 61 20 10 9 just 0.29 points. Sales Turnover - 1.76 0.8 0.8 4.4 5.8 ƒ Sales Turnover for Giant Brands was the highest at Sell Through 0.92 1.3 1 1.8 2.2 5.8. Inventory Holding 1.33 1.8 1.1 1.3 1.7 ƒ Small Brands recorded negative Sales Turnover, for Investment 1.42 1.5 0.6 1.6 2.4 the first time, at -0.8. ƒ Almost half the brands foresee an average outlook for Overall Index 1.87 0.29 1.25 6.65 8.72 next quarter. Value SURAT UPDATE Surat will get Textile Skill develop- inconsistency in the production and quality parameters. Upskilling and recognition of prior learning is the need ment centre soon !!! of the hour for the Surat powerloom industry, which em- ploys four lakh workers directly. The skilling programmes Textile city Surat will have new skill development cent- would be implemented through textile industry to meet er in near future. Last week, The cabinet committee on trained manpower requirement. The new skill devel- economic affairs, has given its approval for Scheme for opment center will help the industry to adopt scientific Capacity Building in Textile Sector (SCBTS), a new skill principles for upgrading skills of employees and achieve development scheme covering the textile sector. This higher productivity. It would also facilitate to cut cost scheme will have an outlay of Rs 1,300 crore for 3 years. and improve fabrics quality in unit. Industry sourses said, these center will develop in Su- Around 10 lakh people are expected to be skilled and rat, , Bhilwara, Tirupur, Varanasi, Malegaon, certified in various segments of textile sector across the Pali and in Bhiwandi. The scheme will have ‘National country. Skill Qualification Framework (NSQF)’ compliant training courses with funding norms as per the common norms Burden on traders as fabric job notified by Ministry of Skill Development and Entrepre- neurship (MSDE). charges may increase upto 10% !!! Thousands of textile traders in the city may have to pay There are 6.5 lakh powerloom machines are installed in more for fabric’s and printing job. The textile surat which produces app. 3 crore meter fabrics per day. processors are all set to hike the job cherges upto 10% in industries in the city is unorganised and most near days. Now a days, traders are already full of anxiety labourers in the city are self-groomed without any proper with GST issues, enhanced packaging material cost and technical skill orientation or training and this creates an with further hike in fabric processing job charges upto

15 December 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com MARKET REPORT

10 percent will result in an overall increase of around 15 fabric costly. Surat’s power loom weavers manufacture 3 percent in the finished fabric category. crore metre of fabrics per day, which have been reduced to 2 crore metre per day post-GST. The daily business The textile mill sources said, the hike in job charges is in- turnover in the textile market has come down drasticaly. evitable due to the increase in the raw material costs. The prices of dyes-chemical, coal, lignite, and labour charges have increased by 15 to 20% in the last few days. Besides this, the Gas company recently has increased the prices Confusion of GST rate on unstitched of natural gas supplied to its industrial consumers. The hike in the fuel prices is likely to hit the dyes, chemicals fabrics over Rs.1000 and textile processors very hard in south Gujarat. Around The Goods and Service Tax (GST) rate issue has again cre- 350 textile dyeing and printing mills are operating below ated a confusive situation for textile traders. The textile of their capacity. Sources said, the overall operating cost traders dealing in unstiched fabrics were doing business in the mill is increased. Now, the processrs have no option by imposing 5% GST on lenghas, unstitched salwar ka- but to increase the fabric job charges. The processors will meez and dress material and maintaining record accord- meet shortly to study raw material, fuel price hike and ac- ingly to file the returns till the date. Now they are worried cordingly increase the job charges. The job charges may as they will have to reverse the entries of their sale as raised by 5-10% in mid of January. tax consultants have clarified that GST on these fabrics On the other hand, the textile traders are not happy with priced above Rs 1,000 was 12% and not 5%. The GST any price hike in job charges. The traders association said, Council, earlier had kept GST rate on unstitched fabrics at synthetic textile industry in Surat are yet to come out of 5%. Now, the rate has been increased to 12% on products the GST issues and the hike in fabric dyeing and printing above Rs 1,000. Traders are in confusion as they have job rates will further increases the burden. They won’t be been charging 5% GST on such items. Sources said, there able to pass on the price hike to the buyers. There is al- is no clarity from the GST commissionerate over 12% GST ready 25 to 30 percent reduction in the daily turnover of on unstitched fabric. It is going to be tough for many trad- MMF fabrics due to hike in the crude oil price which has ers to correct the old bills. resulted in increase of yarn prices making the unfinished

ASSOCIATION NEWS

SIMA hails the Scheme for Capacity Building in Textile Sector

The Indian textiles & clothing industry being the second Capacity Building in Textile Sector (SCBTS) with a budget largest employment provider next only to agriculture re- outlay of Rs.1300 crores for two years. quired to train the workforce on a scientific basis and con- Mr.P Nataraj, Chairman, The Southern India Mills’ As- stantly upgrade the skills to remain globally competitive sociation (SIMA) has thanked the Hon’ble Prime Minister and also enable the employees to earn good remunera- and Hon’ble Union Minister for Textiles for acceding to tion. Against this background, the Ministry of Textiles the appeal of the industry and announcing the SCBTS. He had earlier launched the Integrated Skill Development has said that the Indian textile industry has been lagging Scheme (ISDS) with a budget outlay of Rs.272 crores un- in productivity and counties like China, Bangladesh, Viet- der 11th Plan and Rs.1900 crores in the 12th Plan. Un- nam, etc., are much ahead in productivity. He has stated der this Scheme, around 11 lakh people got benefited. that the new scheme would enable the industry to adopt The industry has been demanding to announce a special scientific principles for upgrading the skills of the employ- scheme not only for training the fresh workers, but also ees and achieve higher productivity. He has said that for upskilling and for the skill Upgradation of Supervisors, the Scheme would also facilitate to cut cost and improve Executives, Managers and Entrepreneurs. Now the Gov- quality. ernment has announced a comprehensive Scheme for

16 www.textilevaluechain.com December 2017 SUSTAINABLE FIBRE

CLOTHING FROM MILK FIBRE

Fibres like cotton Linen have ruled the world since the crimped mechanically, and then cut into staple fibre. Oth- start of civilization. As we speak about innovation and erwise the tow to top convertor makes tops for blending technology China with its large scale production has in- with . Following are the varieties available in market. vented new fibres like Milk and Soybean.Though in the staple fibre /tops 1940’ s the fibres were quite popular in America and Eu- rope the market for it collapsed due to World War II. Now fineness length regenerated, these fibres are more efficient and durable 1.56 dtex 38 mm than any other fibre invented before or existing today. 1.56 dtex 46 mm Milk fibre was invented in 1930‘ s in Italy by Antonio Fer- 2.22 dtex 76 mm ratti. It was manufactured from milk casein to compete with wool. Casein fibres have since being produced under Milk fibre has passed oeko-tex standard 100 green certi- various names in a number of countries, fication for the international ecological textiles. The milk y Lanital in Belgium and France. fibre contains eighteen amino-acids, which is beneficial to y Fibrolane in Britain. human’s health and has the functions of nourishing and taking care of skin.The wet spinning technology, a unique y Merinova in Italy. spinning solvent is used, micro-zinc ions are is embedded y Wipolan in Poland. in the fibre, after drying and after treatment, zinc oxide y Aralac in America is produced, therefore it is bacteriostatic and durable. Casein fibre is produced almost entirely as staple, tow or Casein is obtained by the acid treatment of skimmed top. milk. The casein coagulates as a curd which is washed and dried, and then ground to fine powder. 35 litres of FLOW CHART OF MILK FIBRE PRODUCTION. skimmed milk produce about 1 kg of casein. Today ‘ s milk Casein ------mixing ( caustic soda and water )------filtra- fibre is environmentally friendly, superior in strength and tion ------deaeration ----- spinning ----- tow ------drawing has far better qualities than man –made fibres. Casein ( ----- hardening ----- washing ----- drying ----- crimping ---- milk ) protein dates back many centuries when it was used cutter ------baling. as a binder for paints – paint with casein applied to 14 th and 15 th century churches still appears bright and un- Milk fibre resembles wool in having a soft warm handle. faded. Proteins are obtained from skim milk,evaporated The fibres are naturally crimped, and yarns have a char- milk and condensed milk. There are about three pounds acteristic warmth and fullness of handle. It provides good of casein in every 100 pounds of milk. thermal insulation. They are resilient, like wool. Casein fi- bres cannot be distinguished from wool fibres by chemi- Production of milk fibre ; cal or burning tests, only by microscope. because chemi- Casein is obtained by the acid treatment of skimmed cal composition is so similar, casein burns like wool with milk. The casein coagulates as a curd which is washed odour of burning hair, has no surface scales like wool but and dried, and then ground to a fine powder. 35 litres of is smooth and round when viewed under a microscope, is skimmed milk produce about 1 kg of casein. damaged readily by alkalis and mildews easily. Casein is dissolved in caustic soda solution. The solution Properties of Milk fibre, is allowed to ripen until it reaches a suitable viscosity, and Properties Casein Silk Wool Cotton is then filtered and deaerated.The spinning solution is wet spun by extrusion through spinnerets into a coagulating Tenacity gm/den 1.1-0.9 1-1.5 1.5-2.0 2-5.5 Elongation, % 60-70 25-45 25-40 6-10 bath containing sulphuric acid ( 2 parts ),formaldehyde( 5 Density,gm/cm3 1.30 1.34-1.38 1.33 1.50-1.54 parts ), glucose ( 20 parts )and water ( 100 parts).the jets Moisture regain,% 14 11.0 14-16 9 of solution coagulate into filaments in a manner similar Acid resistance Good excellent excellent Bad to the coagulation of viscose filaments. But the next pro- Alkali resistance Bad good bad Excellent cess is very critical as the fibre has to be treated chemi- Resistance to Resist- Resistance Resistance Resist- moth/fungus ance to to Fungus to fungus ance to cally to harden it. The process is commonly described as moth but not To but not to moth but “ hardening “, in that it minimized the softening effects but ot to moth moth not to of water.Treatment with formaldehyde forms the basis of fungus fungus many hardening techniques. In the plant scale bunches U.V resistance bad bad bad good of filaments are collected together into a tow as they leave the coagulating bath, and are then steeped in formalde- The filaments are smooth –surfaced. cross section is bean hyde solution. the filaments are subjected to drawing at shaped. the natural colour is white. When wet, the fibres this stage. After treatment, the tow is washed and dried, lose much of their strength ; tenacity falls to 0.6 to 0.3

17 December 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com SUSTAINABLE FIBRE g/den. Milk fibre tends to absorb moisture readily, and 1. Desizing -Enzyme products may be used, preferally at the fibres become swollen and soft. they may become pH 4.0 to 6.0. If water soluble sizes have been used, desiz- plastic and sticky as the temperature is raised. The fibres ing is not necessary. become brittle and yellow on prolonged heating at over 2. Scouring -Synthetic detergents should be used, prefer- 100 deg c. It burns slowly in air.flammability is similar to ably under acid conditions, e.g pH 6.0. wool. The fibre base body does not have regular chan- nels, which makes the milk fibre have as fine moisture 3. Bleaching -Casein fibre is generally white, and bleach- absorption as natural fibre and better moisture conduc- ing is not usually necessary. If required, it should be tion than synthetic fibres – milk fibre is both comfortable carried out under weakly conditions,e.g pH 4.0 -6.0 as and permeable.fibres are white, fluffy, springy and have Casein fibres retain maximum strength and minimum a pleasant odour. Even though casein fibre lacks certain swelling under these conditions. Hypochlorite bleaches desirable qualities of wool it was a way to replace wool at should not be used. Bleaching may be carried out with a lower cost. when mixed with viscose and wool,casein Hydrogen Peroxide – 2 gpl at a pH of 8.0 using Sodium helped in the conservation effort during world war II as Pyrophosphate. It must be followed by careful washing a wool substitute. Though caseins can be laundered with and acidification with acetic acid. Normal optical bleach- care the same as wool, they loose strength when wet and ing agents may be applied. must be handled gently. they cannot be kept damp for 4. Dyeing - Casein absorbs moisture readily and does not any length of time due to quick mildewing. have a highly orientated structure. Dyes can penetrate Today’ s milk fibre is environmentally friendly, superior into the fibre without difficulty. in strength and has far better qualities than man-made Casein can be dyed with dyestuffs used for wool. Acid, fibres. Basic, Direct and Disperse dyes are used where good Blending of milk fibre ; When blended with other fibres washing –fastness is note a prime essential. Metal com- casein added a soft draping quality and resilllliency to fab- plex dyes give high wash fastness. pH of the dyeliquor rics. Fibre was blended with wool for creating and with should be between pH 4 & 6. Dyeing is usually carried out spun rayon,wool, and cotton for attractive woven at 90-95 deg c. and knitted fabrics in a variety of weaves, textures and 5. Printing - Fabrics containing casein may be printed by prints. The popular blends were wool -94% and casein block, screen,& roller. Acid, basic, direct, chrome, mor- fibre -6 %., and viscose-50% and casein fibre – 50 %. Ca- dant, azoic, vat or pigment dyes may be used. sein /cotton blends are popular for hosiery and carpets. A small amount of fibre is used for 100 % casein goods, 6. - Crease –resist finishes may be applied to but most casein fibre is blended with wool, cotton, rayon, blends containing casein fibre, using temperatures not nylon and other staple fibres. higher than 160 deg c. for approximately 2.5 mins. Blends containing casein may be spun on all the usual Uses of Milk Protein fibre ; One of the earliest uses for systems casein fibre was in the making of felt for hats. Casein / wool blends are used for knitted berets. Casein/cotton or a) Cotton system – viscose/casein blends nylon blended fabrics are used for interlock outerwear, T b) Woolen system. – casein/ wool or viscose blends. shirts, cardigans, jumpers etc. casein blended with wool, c) Worsted system. – casein /wool or viscose blends. cotton,viscose, nylon is used in Raschel cloths, coatings, d) Flax system. - casein/viscose blends. blanket fabrics. Blends of casein and wool are made into TYPE OF BLENDS COUNT pressed for use as floor coverings and used in con- 100% Milk yarn 10-80 Ne ventional and tufted carpets. carpets are made using Milk fibre /cotton 10-80 Ne casein -50% and wool or viscose -50%. Milk fibre /cotton/modal 10-80 Ne Milk fibre /Tencel 10-80 Ne Acknowledgement – The author is thankful to Mr S.K Khandelia,President, Chenab Textile Mills, Kathua ( J & K ) Milk fibre /bamboo fibre 10-80 Ne for giving permission to publish this article. Milk fibre/cashmere/wool 16-80 Ne Milk fibre/silk 16-80 Ne Milk fibre/camel hair 16-80 Ne Milk fibre/silk/cashmere 16-80 Ne Milk fibre/silk/cashmere/tencel/cotton 16-80 Ne

Chemical processing of Milk Protein Fibre ( Casein) ; Milk protein fibre has different physical and chemical con- Dr N.N.Mahapatra struction from natural protein fibre, care is taken in the President following steps ; COLORANT LTD

18 www.textilevaluechain.com December 2017 TECHNICAL ARTICLE

Control Techniques for Noise Pollution in Textile Industry: An Overview

Abstract: 1) Air pollution( Dust ) 2) Water pollution Textile manufacturing is one of the largest industrial pro- 3) Solid waste pollution cess that uses water, many hazardous chemicals like for- 4) Noise pollution maldehyde, azo dyes chlorinated compounds and man power. However one of the major contributors to environ- mental pollution apart from air and water is noise.Noise 1) Air pollution: is an unwanted sound that interfaces with the function in Most processes performed in textile mills produce atmos- given time. Prolonged exposure to high noise causes psy- pheric emissions. Gaseous emissions have been identified chological effects and physical damage includes loss in as the second greatest pollution problem (after effluent concentration which finally affects the job performance. quality) for the textile industry. Speculation concerning Today the machinery manufactures are taking continu- the amount and type of air pollutants emitted from textile ous efforts to reduce the noise level but the measures are operations has been widespread but, air emission data not adequate to protect the textile workers from noise re- for textile manufacturing operations are not readily avail- lated diseases. This paper enlightens the facts about the able. Air pollution is the most difficult type of pollution to noise pollution due to textile machines, its accessories in sample test and quantify in an audit. Air emissions can be preventive measures and controlling the same. classified according to the nature of their sources. Keywords: Noise Pollution, Noise and Machine Behavior , Textile mills usually generate nitrogen and sulphur oxides Introduction to Textile Industry: from boilers. Other significant sources of air emissions in textile operations include, fabric preparation,dyeing,resin Textile industry is a significant contributor to many na- finishing, printing wastewater treatment plants. Apart tional economies, encompassing both small and large- from this in spinning mill, the process of removing trash scale operations worldwide. Though the textile industry from cotton fibers by opening and beating process results is one of the largest industries, its manufacturing process in liberation of fiber fluff in the surrounding environment. is characterized by high consumption of resources like The amount of fiber fluff liberated varies from section to water, fuel and a variety of chemicals in a long process section, being highest in blow room and minimum at the sequence that generates a significant amount of waste. cone winding section. The exposure of workers to such The system/procedure of low process efficiency results in working environment conditions containing fiber parti- substantial wastage of resources and a severe damage cles and dust poses a severe health risk which is shown in to the environment. The main environmental problems the Fig.No 1. Generally, air suction system exists nearly in associated with textile industry are typically those associ- all departments to maintain certain humidity and remove ated with water body pollution caused by the discharge of air contaminants. At some places it works effectively but untreated effluents. Other environmental issues of equal in certain areas air exchange is not proper resulting in importance are air emission, notably Volatile Organic suffocation and inconvenience to the workers. In weaving Compounds (VOC) and excessive noise as well as work- mill, fibrous particles present in the working environment space safety[1]. In recent years, even developing country are not much. The small fibrous particles generated dur- like India has taken positive steps against the noise pol- ing weaving activities disperse in occupational air [3] the lution; Noise pollution has been accepted as major threat fluff liberation in the departments with modern textile to human beings. Much discussion and legislation have machines which is shown in the Table No.1, has drasti- been evolved in an attempt to recognize and combat the cally reduced with most of the machines having major problem of noise pollution. It has been recognized that sections fully enclosed. noise of sufficient intensity can damage hearing. The problem of noise pollution can be combated when there Table 1: Concentration limits of dust in air stream are means of measuring noise level and systems of clas- sification. Process Limit (mg/m3) Blow room to Speed frame 0.50 Textile and pollution: Spinning (Ring Frame) 0.20 The textile process deals with production of fiber, yarn and fabric followed by pre and post chemical, mechanical Twisting 0.20 process. Each process causes some environmental issues Winding 0.20 that can be listed as follows,

19 December 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com TECHNICAL ARTICLE

Warping 0.20 3) Solid waste pollution: Sizing 0.75 The primary residual wastes generated from the textile industry are non-hazardous. These include scraps of fab- Weaving 0.75 ric and yarn, off-specification yarn and fabric and pack- Nonwoven 0.50 aging waste. There are also wastes associated with the storage and production of yarns and textiles, such as chemical storage drums, cardboard reels for storing fab- ric and cones used to hold yarns for dyeing and knitting. Cutting room waste generates a high volume of fabric scraps, which can often be reduced by increasing fabric utilization efficiency in cutting and sewing. 4 Noise pollution and machine: Noise is the environmental pollutant generated by any industry and spinning and weaving industries has no ex- ception to this. The workers exposed to industrial noise of potentially damaging quality and intensity, suffer from Fig.1: Problems of fluff liberation in spinning and weaving sheds impairment of hearing capacity of several degrees and other physiological disorders which is shown in the Fig 2) Water pollution: No. 4 and 5 Prolonged exposure to a noise level of > 90 The textile industry uses high volumes of water through- dB may cause hearing disorders since maximum permis- out its operations, from washing of fibers to bleaching, sible noise level for 8 hour exposure should be around dyeing and washing of finished products. On an average, 96.5 dB [5] As we know the term noise is the unpleasant approximately 200 liters of water is required to produce sound with varying intensity. The machines are the main l kg of textiles. from Fig No. 3 and it is seen that the large cause for this particular reason, and cannot be under di- volume of waste water generated contains a wide variety rect control because we cannot keep machine as it is as it of chemicals used throughout processing. This polluted generate the noise and secondly lot of cost is involved on water can cause severe damage if it is not treated prop- the machines is very high. erly before being discharged into the environment. All the Impact of noise pollution on human beings stages involved in textile manufacturing, wet processing creates the highest volume of waste water. The aquatic toxicity of textile industry waste water varies considerably among production facilities. The sources of aquatic toxicity can include salt, surfactants, ionic metals and their metal complexes, toxic organic chemicals, bioc- ides and toxic anions. Most textile dyes have low aquatic toxicity; on the other hand surfactants and related com- pounds, such as detergents, emulsifiers and dispersants are used in most of each textile process and can be an important contributor to effluent aquatic toxicity, BOD and foaming. Fig 4: Psychological Disorders Fig 5: Hearing Problem Machine behavior and noise generation: Any machine while in running is prone to develop the noise and textile machines have no exception for the same. When we talk about the noise with respect to machine it is the vibration generated due to two or more solid surface interface. The vibrating members alternately push and pull against air creating noise, off course there are many reasons for gen- eration of noise and can be summarized as follow, 1) Machine footing and its foundation. Fig 2: Coloured Effluent from dyeing process Fig 3: Effluent Discharge 2) Type of mechanism adopted while designing the ma- chine (no. of mechanical components presented and link- age mechanism)

20 www.textilevaluechain.com December 2017 TECHNICAL ARTICLE

3) Working speed of machine. ing machines offers efficient control on various param- 4) Maintenance of machine. eters like yarn, fabric tension on spinning and weaving 5) Design of other machine parts like blowers, ducts and machines, speed control devices, Building mechanism on pipes etc. speed frame and ring frame as it was traditionally based 6) Material handling system. on cam and linkage mechanism etc. Shows pronounced impact on noise reduction. The development in material Overview of noise levels in Different departments: handling system also offers positive contribution towards 1) Spinning: Because of high spindle speeds reached on noise reduction this is especially while handling of plastic new machines (ring spindles up to 20000 rpm, rotor speed cops during doffing operation similarly beams handling up to 11000 rpm) spinning mills can generally be assumed system in weaving unit with monorail arrangement [6]. to generate a great noise. Noise levels of 70 to 100 dB are The handling of spare parts also shows some good cor- commonly recorded in workrooms. relation with noise level which involves proper storage of parts like boxes and bines etc. The following points show 2) Weaving and knitting: Although considerable progress some features of modern machine. has been made in the weaving sector over the last 20 year, the whole area of noise nuisance and, closely asso- ƒ Sturdy design of machines ciated with it, vibration coming from looms, cause major ƒ Use of minimum number of linkages problems. Noise levels of 100 to 120 dB must be expected ƒ More focus on mechatronics which relates to mini- in weaving rooms, according to the design, type of loom. mum number of metallic parts Fitting and erection and number looms used, fabric struc- ƒ Proper design of Jig & fixer shows reduction in vibra- ture etc. The following table shows the noise levels in vari- tion up to 20 dB ous departments. ƒ Use of proper bearings and centralized lubrication sys- Table 2: Noise level in textile industry (Texturing, spin- tem reduces friction ning and Weaving) ƒ Improved metallurgy of metallic parts in other words use of light weight parts Process Noise level (dB) ƒ Provision of suction systems at various points results Texturizing Plant 95-100 in dust reduction by 30-35% Spinning ƒ Enclosed machine parts minimizes accidental cases by 1.Ring Frame 80 50% ƒ 2.Rotor spinning 84 Machines are equipped with safety panels and sensors to sense the abnormalities 3.Two for one twister 100-110 Design aspects to control the noise: 4.Weaving 100-120 Behavior of sound: When designing engineering control Today’s machine scenario against conventional one to reduce the noise exposure it is important to have basic with respect to noise generation: understanding of sound and its impact. Sound is always All modern machines are far differing than conventional produced by change in the speed or force. Basic principle one with respect to noise generation. The conventional of sound includes, practice of designing of machines was based on pure me- 1) More noise is produced when great force is used for chanical concepts rather than combination of mechanical longer time than small force with shorter time. and electronics, since the development in the electronics industries was not up to the level that today it is. Today we 2) Airborne sound is caused by vibration of solid parts or are talking about the automated machines purely based turbulence in case of fluid. on mechatronics concept and it offers following advan- 3) Vibration can produce sound after traveling a great dis- tage. tance. 1) Reduction in the mechanical parts and accessories with 4) High frequency sound is more reflective. electronic base mechanisms. 5) Low frequency noise is travels through object and 2) High and efficient accuracy through opening. 3) Offers flexibility in the working. 6) Audible range of human ear is up to 80-90 dB.[7] 4)Ease of maintenance. Design and planning: first step in effective noise control is 5) Low mechanical complicity. design and purchase in noise control in mind. Take noise control in account when designing new facilities renovat- Also introduction of hydraulics, pneumatics with solenoid ing existing buildings. Isolate noisy operations in design valves and PLC operating system on spinning on weav-

21 December 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com TECHNICAL ARTICLE ing rooms where fewer employees will be impacted. Use tions in the machine show significant reduction in the qualified engineers and architectures to design the work noise level. place and it becomes easier to control techniques before a. Reduce the dropping height of parts from bins and machine installation and other aspects. Before buying an- storage tanks ything ask to the manufacture about the noise and other technical parameters related to noise generation. b. Enclose the bin and boxes with rubber base material to absorb the noise Administrative control: It involves training to the workers staff about the noise and its consequences also job rota- c. Keep optimum pressure when working with pneumat- tion technique to high level noise area and low level noise ics and hydraulics area in order to keep overall noise level constant, since 6) Proper operating speed: As we know any increase in this control technique is not efficient as there is lacuna in speed will prone to develop more noise so run the ma- technological aspects to reduce the noise. chines with manufacturer recommendation. Simple engineering control: These controls should be a) Enclosures: These are like boxes covered with sound evaluated before exploring more complex solution and and heat absorbable coatings simple used to control the this technique involves following aspects, machines parts which are moveable especially in case of 1) Proper maintenance. motor panels where both heat and noise generation are 2) Changing operating procedures the key parameters to be performed. 3) Replacing operating procedures b) Shields and barriers: These are sound absorbable 4) Applying room treatments materials which are used to control high frequency noise 5) Relocating equipment’s they should be placed near to the high frequency source 6) Simple machine treatments and they should be as thick as possible. 7)Using proper machine speed[8] c) Ducts and pipes: vibrating duct is the common cause 1) Proper maintenance: It is observed that malfunc- of noise. The source of noise is the fan and is depend on tioning or improperly maintained parts produces more noise that well maintained one like, 1) Proper fan size and type a. Loosely held bearings and belts. 2) Speed of the fan b. Torn belts Generally the backward curved fan produces low level of c. Worn gears noise than forward curve due to the low air turbulence d. Imbalanced rotating masses also some other considerations are required to be taken e. Missing guards or shields like acoustic linings in the ducts to observe the sound, f. Improperly adjusted cams and linkages pressure balance in ducts to maintain the steady condi- It is recommended that a good preventive maintenance tions during martial transportation. practice should be adopted to reduce the noise level and Conclusion: also follow scheduled list for lubrication to reduce Reduction in the noise is important and above all a de- the wear and tear of parts and maintain the same. manding task. Today the machine manufactures have at- 2) Operating procedures and equipment replacement tempted serval techniques to keep the noise emission as technique: This technique is totally in the hand of admin- low as possible but, what would have been achieved in istration where provision of job rotation and purchasing lowering down the noise level has been cancelled out by of new equipment’s or tools is the main priority. the continuous increase in the speed. We must practice 3) Room treatments: One of the basic principles of noise sophisticated engineering and quantitative management control is to reduce the reflecting sound, for that use of techniques like Total Productive Maintenance to control absorbent materials in between the departments, modify noise and other pollutions with respect to machines and the plant construction according to the acoustic principle material handling practices. and engineering approach. References: 4) Relocation of equipment: Noise level drops off when 1. Chavan R.B, Indian textile industry –Environmental issues, Indian the distance from the noise source is increase. Journal of fiber and textile research, Vol.26 March-June 2001, pp. 11-21. a. Noisy equipment should be as far as possible from em- 2. Lal R.A, NCUTE Extension Programs on Environmental Problems ployees. in chemical Processing of Textiles, KCT, Coimbatore. 2005 Das Subrta and GhoshAnlndya, Some Ecological Hazards inTextile b. Do not put noisy parts at corner to avoid noise reflec- Industry, International Conference on Emerging Trends In Poly- tion. mers and Textiles, January 2005. 3. Slater Keith, Textiles and the environment, Handbook of Techni- 5) Simple machine treatments: Many simple modifica- cal textiles, School of engineering, University of Guelph Canada,

22 www.textilevaluechain.com December 2017 TECHNICAL ARTICLE

pp. 530-542 6. ShastreeN.K, Environmental Resource Management, Noise Pol- lution Standard’s and control, Anmol Publications Pvt .Ltd, 4. Kane.C.D, Environmental and health hazards in spinning industry pp.170-182. and their control, Indian Journal of fiber and textile research, Vol.26 March-June 2001, pp.39-43. Dr. V.D Gotmare 5. Talukdar.M.K“Noise Pollution and its control in textile industry” Associate Professor & Head, Indian Journal of fiber and textile research, vol.no-26, March- extile Manufactures Department, June,pp.44-49 V. J. T. I., Mumbai

EVENT REPORT Texprocil Celebrates The Achievement Of Its Member Exporters At The Annual Awards Presentation The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council popularly competitiveness of the textiles sector by bringing down known as TEXPROCIL celebrated the achievement of its costs which is the primary objective of this landmark in- member exporters at a glittering Awards function The direct taxation regime. However he added that delays in Hon’ble Minister of Textiles and Information & Broad- GST refunds are leading to serious working capital and fi- casting, Smt Smriti Zubin Irani was unable to come to the nancial problems for many of the textiles units in addition event but in a gracious video message to the industry she to the procedural & compliance issues faced by them. complimented the award winners to keep up the good Shri Lahoti stated that Cotton Yarn was one single prod- work in the sector. In the Minister’s absence, the Textiles uct for which there were no benefits under the Foreign Commissioner, Dr Kavita Gupta graciously accepted to be Trade Policy 2015-20. He urged the government to include the Chief Guest at the function. Cotton yarn under the MEIS and 3% Interest Equalization The event was inaugurated with lighting of traditional Scheme. He said that it will give the necessary boost to lamp by Dr. Kavita Gupta Textiles Commissioner along the Cotton spinning sector and ensure its survival and with the Chairman of Texprocil Shri Ujwal Lahoti and the sustenance. Vice Chairman, Dr. K V Srinivasan. Concluding his speech, the Chairman also urged the gov- Shri Ujwal Lahoti, Chairman, Texprocil in his opening re- ernment to get fabrics included under the ROSL scheme marks congratulated all the award winners for facing the and also to increase the MEIS from 2% to 4% rate at par challenges of a slow global demand and intense price with Made ups as the weaving sector is labour intensive pressures to emerge leaders in their respective line of and can create additional employment opportunities. businesses during the year 2016-17. In her address to the textile industry, the Chief Guest at In his speech, the Chairman complimented the Hon’ble the function Dr Kavita Gupta lauded the efforts and per- Minister of Textiles and Information & Broadcasting, Smt. formance of the exporters as well as the winners of the Smriti Zubin Irani for her untiring efforts in conducting ex- prestigious Texprocil Awards. tensive consultations with all the stake holders from time She encouraged the industry to align their growth with to time to understand the issues faced by the textiles in- dustry. He said that she was instrumental in the inclusion of Made ups under the ROSL Scheme which was originally introduced to cover only Readymade Garments and also thanked her for keeping the entire cotton textiles sector at the GST rate of 5% and for reducing the GST rate on job work in the textile sector to 5%. Shri Lahoti mentioned that the Government recently in- creased the ROSL rate for cotton Made ups from 1.55% to 2.20% and also the entitlement of the duty credit scrips on export of Made ups from 2% to 4% under the MEIS. These measures will enable Made ups exporters to par- tially overcome the disadvantage which they are facing in leading markets like the EU and the US as compared to products from some of the competing nations which en- joy zero duty access, he added. Dr. Siddhartha Rajagopal, Executive Director – TEXPROCIL, Shri He also said that the GST will certainly lead to growth of Ujwal Lahoti, Chairman –TEXPROCIL, Dr. Kavita GuptaDr K V the textile sector in the days to come by improving the Srinivasan, Vice Chairman – TEXPROCIL

23 December 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com EVENT REPORT more innovation as it was the key to increase exports. signing MoUs with intra segments like the signing of MoU She stressed the fact that the industry should focus on between PDEXCIL and CMAI in the Textiles India Show technical textiles as it still remained a vastly unexplored held at Gandhinagar in July 2017, where fabrics from the segment in the textile sector. She added that the govern- power loom sector will be used for making garments by ment’s support through various schemes like the recent the CMAI members. increase in MEIS should spur the industry to spiral to- She concluded by saying that the government is always wards healthy growth. there to back and support the industry but it finally de- Dr Gupta also mentioned that India should occupy the pends on each company within the industry to grow by relative space that is being vacated by China as that is one supporting each other thereby scaling greater heights in opportunity that India should not let go. She mentioned the exports sector. that along with exports the industry should also look at

GOVT NEWS Cabinet approves “Scheme for Capacity Building in Textiles Sector (SCBTS) The Cabinet Committee on Economic Affairs, chaired by (c) Web-based monitoring will be adopted for steering the Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi has given its ap- every aspect of implementation of the programme. proval for a new skill development scheme covering the (d) Skilling requirement in the traditional sectors such as entire value chain of the textile sector excluding Spin- handlooms, handicrafts, jute, silk etc. will be considered ning & Weaving in organized Sector, titled “Scheme for as special projects through respective Sectoral Divisions/ Capacity Building in Textile Sector (SCBTS)” from 2017-18 organizations. Skill upgradation will be supported further to 2019-20 with an outlay of Rs. 1300 crore. The scheme for entrepreneurial development through provision of will have National Skill Qualification Framework (NSQF) MUDRA loans. compliant training courses with funding norms as per the Common Norms notified by Ministry of Skill Development (e) With a view to make outcomes measurable, successful and Entrepreneurship (MSDE). trainees will be assessed and certified by an accredited Assessment Agency. The objectives of the scheme are to provide demand driven, placement oriented skilling programme to incen- (f) Atleast 70% of the certified trainees are to be placed tivize the efforts of the industry in creating jobs inthe in the wage employment. Post Placement tracking will be organized textile and related sectors; to promote skilling mandatory under the scheme. and skill up-gradation in the traditional sectors through (g) Acknowledging the high levels of employment of wom- respective Sectoral Divisions/organizations of Ministry of en in the sector post training, all partner institutions will Textiles; and to provide livelihood to all sections of the be required to comply with the guidelines regarding In- society across the country. ternal Complaints Committee to be constituted under the The skilling programmes would be implemented Sexual Harassment of Women at Workplace (Prevention, through: Prohibition & Redressal) Act, 2013 to become eligible for funding under the scheme. i. Textile Industry /Units in order to meet the in-house requirement of manpower; The scheme will be implemented for the benefit of all sections of the society across the country including rural, ii. Reputed training institutions relevant to textile sector remote, LWE affected, North East, J&K by imparting skills having placement tie-ups with textile industry/ units; and in the identified job roles. Preference will be given to vari- iii.Institutions of Ministry of Textiles /State Governments ous social groups, SC, ST, differently abled, minorities and having placement tie-ups with textile industry/units. other vulnerable groups. Under previous scheme of skill development implemented by the Ministry of Textiles in The scheme will broadly adopt the following strategy: the XII Plan period, more than 10 lakh people have been (a) Job role wise skilling targets will be based on skill trained of which more than 70% were women. Consid- gap identified for various levels i.e. Entry level courses, ering that the apparel industry, a major segment to be Up-skilling/ Re-skilling (supervisor, managerial training, covered under the scheme, employs majorly women advanced courses for adapting technology etc.), Recogni- (about 70%), the trend is likely to be continued in the new tion of Prior Learning (RPL), Training of Trainers, Entre- scheme. preneurship Development. 10 lakh people are expected to be skilled and certified in (b) Segment Wise/ Job role wise requirement of skill various segments of Textile Sector through the scheme, needs will be assessed from time to time in consultation out of which 1 lakh will be in traditional sectors. with the industry.

24 www.textilevaluechain.com December 2017 BRAND UPDATE Abhishek Tibrewal wins Liva Protégé 2017 and a cash prize of Rs. 2 Lacs y 1st Runner up is Sonika Pulluru and Dibyani Mishra is the 2nd runners up y Third edition of Liva Protégé, a Unique Talent Hunt competition for India’s Young Amateur Designer y Liva Protégé ties up exclusively with Amazon Fashion, launches 2017 winners on The Designer Boutique at Amazon.in

Liva Protégé is a unique talent hunt competition which Miss India International 2007 Esha Gupta, sustainability gives young fashion designers an opportunity to show- and social change advocate Parveen Dusanj and Naren- case their talent. The talent hunt attracts entries from dra Kumar Ahmed (Nari), Creative Head Amazon Fashion. numerous fashion design institutes from India. The par- The top finalists, this edition, were from IINIFD Pune, NIFT ticipants are shortlisted based in their designing capabili- Mumbai, Pearl, GIFT Kolkata, WLCI College Kolkata, INIFD ties before getting assigned to a mentor. This year, the Chennai, Hamstech, Hyderabad & NID, Gandhinagar. scope of the competition got bigger as the Liva Protégé At a glittering ceremony held in Mumbai today Abhishek 2017 winners will launch their collections exclusively on Tibrewal from Pearl Academy, New Delhi won the pres- The Designer Boutique at Amazon.in and enjoy an easy tigious Liva Protégé 2017, Sonika Pulluru from Hamstech access to millions of nationwide customers. The third edi- Hyderabad and Dibyani Mishra from GIFT Kolkata were tion of Liva Protégé received over 3,000 applications from the 1st and 2nd runners respectively. across 190 institutes. Mr. Rajeev Gopal, Chief Marketing Office, Pulp and Fiber Mr. Dilip Gaur, Business Director, Pulp and Fiber Busi- Business, Aditya Birla Group, “The third edition of Liva ness, Aditya Birla Group and Managing Director Grasim Protégé has had a record participation and has grown Industries said, In line with the Aditya Birla Group’s phi- to become a much sought out competition in the short losophy of nurturing and promoting young talent, we duration with fashion institutes and students.” He in- embarked on the Liva Protégé initiative. The vision was formed, “This year’s highlight is our exclusive association to have young designers sculpt their designs in manifold with Amazon Fashion that will enable these designers to ways for Liva and also provide them a launch platform launch their winning Liva Protégé collections on Amazon. for their future enterprise. I believe that designers bring in, thereby giving them a unique opportunity to build and creative thoughts into action, which is a key differentiator market their brands”. in the Textile value chain and therefore critical to success of the Indian industry on global platform” Commenting on the tie-up with Live Protégé, Arun Sird- eshmukh, Business – Head, Amazon Fashion said, “We re- Over 190 institutes participated in the 3rd edition of Liva main strongly invested in creating the right infrastructure Protégé Talent Hunt which had entries from across 50 cit- to help create position and highlight designers/brands ies with over 3000 students applying for the competition. to Indian customers. By giving this exposure to the Liva In addition to the major metros, this year the hunt had Protégé 2017 winners, Amazon will not only allow them participation from tier II cities like Ambala, Ludhiana, Kan- accelerate their career growth but also give them an op- pur amongst others. There were two rounds of short-list- portunity to focus on their inherent talent and build na- ing the candidates. The students were divided in 6 zones tional brands. As part of The Designer Boutique at Ama- and were allotted an ace designer as a mentor. Nida zon.in, we want to identify young designers and give them Mahmood for Delhi, Pallavi Singhee for Kolkata, Anand an opportunity to reach millions of our customers, and Kabra for Hyderabad, Anshu Arora Sen for Bengaluru, Pri- in turn help us democratize designer wear and make the yadarshini Rao for Mumbai & Purvi Doshi for Ahmedabad segment more affordable in India”. nurtured these finalists for the grand finale. Selection process: LIVA Protégé is a platform where as- pirants have been chosen on designing capabilities. There have had multiple rounds of selection across three months long intensive program (inclusive of one on one presentations to mentors, and then selection to be based on aesthetics, design, fluidity and functionality of crea- tions) post which the aspirants got a chance to brush up on their skills and be mentored by some of the biggest names in the fashion industry. The young designers had showcased 5 evening ensembles designed by them at the finals who were judged by the eminent jury comprising of Bollywood’s fashionista and

25 December 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com BRAND UPDATE Beaulieu Yarns awarded prestigious FM Global “Highly Protected Risk” (HPR) status for French production site y HPR is the highest status a plant can achieve for fire The divisions of B.I.G. are also implementing a number risk prevention and protection of safety programmes to raise awareness of workplace y The site Ideal Fibres & Fabrics Comines is the second in safety and to maintain strong safety records. the Beaulieu International Group to reach HPR status Karena Cancilleri, Vice President BU Beaulieu Engineered y Underlines Group’s commitment to risk prevention at Products, commented: “I am proud of Beaulieu Yarns for B.I.G. sites & to reinforcing our strong business contin- achieving the highly-regarded FM Global HPR Award and gency plan setting an example for the whole Beaulieu International Beaulieu Yarns, the global supplier of high-quality poly- Group. This positive step reflects the strong commitment amide and polypropylene yarns, is pleased to announce of the Engineered Products division and the rest of the the achievement of Highly Protected Risk (HPR) status for Group to improving safety and protecting our workplaces its French production site, Ideal Fibres & Fabrics Comines. and our production facilities.” Awarded by FM Global, HPR designation means a facility Beaulieu Yarns received the HPR Award at a ceremony on meets the highest industry standards for property protec- November 7, 2017 attended by all staff, and representa- tion. tives of B.I.G. Management, Beaulieu Yarns Management FM Global, Beaulieu International Group’s (B.I.G.) indus- and FM Global Management. trial property and business interruption insurer for the past two years, offers a unique concept that supports the Group in reducing its exposure to loss and increases its business resilience. A dedicated worldwide team of engi- neers focuses on providing assistance and protection of its assets, helping the Group to achieve a higher level of risk protection. The Ideal Fibres & Fabrics Comines site produces high quality yarns for a large variety of application and mar- ket segments includingthe automotive industry. It scored exceptionally well in its FM Global assessment which focused on aspects including fire protection, protection against natural hazard, mechanical breakdown of ma- Representatives of FM Global Management and Ideal Fibres & Fabrics chinery and also cyber risks. Project Team at the Award ceremony on November 7, 2017. Its overall risk mark of 76 ranks it within the top 25% of its industry for fire risk prevention and protection. Commenting on the Award, Emmanuel Colchen, Glob- al Sales Director Yarns within BU Beaulieu Engineered Products, said: “This HPR yarn production site reinforces strongly our supply chain security and demonstrates our engagement towards our customers and partners. Our contingency planning and risk management are essential, well-considered elements within our long-term business strategy to demanding sectors such as Automotive and Commercial & Residential floor covering contracts.” Ideal Fibres & Fabrics Comines is the second facility in the Group to attain HPR status, and the very first in Europe. Pinnacle Polymers LLC in the USA also achieved the HPR Erwin De Deyn, Chief Legal Officer Beaulieu Yarns received the Highly as a chemical plant, which is a rare achievement within and Vice President at Beaulieu Protected Risk (HPR) Award at a the chemical business. Fire risk prevention is part of the International Group, accepting the ceremony on November 7, 2017 Group’s broader risk management activities. B.I.G. is in- Award on behalf of Beaulieu Yarns attended by all staff, and repre- vesting in increasing the level of protection at all B.I.G. sentatives of B.I.G. Management, plants in order to protect its business continuity. Beaulieu Yarns Management and FM Global Management.

26 www.textilevaluechain.com December 2017 BRAND UPDATE

BIBA Apparels; journey from Hobby to MBO’s...

BIBA Apparels Private Limited better known as BIBA is a that every good brand has a motivating story behind it. brand that brings fashion closer to every corner of the BIBA is one such story. society at affordable rates. BIBA is more of a people’s BIBA was launched as a brand in 1988 and from whole- brand and has over time gained extreme prominence and saling the brand to traditional retailers; it launched its love from the women, who adorn and look fashionable first exclusive store at Inorbit Mall in Mumbai in the early in BIBA. The brand has been dressing and embellishing nineties. Today, BIBA has a presence across 76 Indian cit- women modestly and stylishly, from every corner of India ies with 192 exclusive brand outlets and over 250 multi- since 1986. brand outlets. BIBA was one of the first few brands to use In 1983 Meena Bindra chose to rejoice the spirit of ‘Biba’, the shop-in-shop model with Shoppers Stop, LifeStyle the Punjabi endearment for pretty women, by designing and Pantaloons. The annual turnover of Biba Apparels is clothes from her house in Mumbai. She had a modest estimated at Rs.600 crores today. start, what began as designing clothes for some pocket BIBA pioneered Bollywood merchandising in India in 2004 money, slowly began to grow and gain popularity. She with Na Tum Jano Na Hum and also provided costumes had never dreamt of becoming a businesswoman and for blockbusters including Devdas, Hulchul, Baghban. In that too someone who would someday lead a company 2002, it replicated designer costumes from four movies from the front. Taal, Yaadein, Pardes and Badhai Ho Badhai to tap the As a 39-year-old housewife and mother of two, she movie memorabilia market.In Salman Khan’s latest mov- turned her boredom into creative venture and made it ie, Bajrangi Bhaijan, Kareena Kapoor is seen wearing BIBA to real business with an initial investment of just Rs.8,000 outfits. taken as loan from the bank 33 years ago. She pioneered BIBA won the Best Women’s Ethnic Wear Brand of the the salwar-kurta revolution in the country and united the Year at the CMAI Apex Awards in 2015. In 2012 it also women from the North to the South changing their dress- won the Images Award for Most Admired Women’s Indian ing styles. The ‘Punjabi suit’, as it used to be called, be- wear Brand of the Year. BIBA today boasts of a pan-india came an important part of every woman’s wardrobe. presence and caters to women in all age groups, who From Patiala salwars to Haryanvi kurta with pockets, Hy- have a different nose and liking for Ethnic wear. derabadi pyjamas, which are today’s palazzo pants; the Time and again BIBA has also gone for tie-ups and have Bhopali kurtas with pleats in the front, the Peshwa cos- come out with designer collections in collaboration with tumes with stitched yoke in the centre and cuffed sleeves; stalwarts in the trade like Manish Arora, Rohit Bal etc. the battis kali (32 pleats) on mulmul for summers are all Decent pricing, widespread presence and availability in designs Meena introduced women to from the start. Mee- online stores makes BIBA an accessible brand. But even na has been creating beauty with her fabric, prints and though they reach out every woman, they do not shift designs. “ away from their brand philosophy of making fashion af- She started at a time when readymade churidar-kurtas fordable. And this is how they win hearts! were unheard of and sourcing of the fabric was not easy.

There were no malls, and brands, and surely no fixed styles and rules. Her original creations gave her the first- mover advantage. What began with designing and selling to family and friends, slowly took over the shape of some- thing big and commercial in no time. Being Delhi-bred, she could make and sell an outfit she knew thoroughly. The success of the first sale led to the next and there was no looking back. Traditional crafts like hand block printing with vegetable dyes and exquisite embroideries seperates and puts BIBA ahead of the league. Each garment is a work of art. BIBA is a story that needs to be told and much as the saying goes

27 December 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com BRAND UPDATE

Evolution of a unique invention for textile quality

One of the pioneers of USTER®STATISTICS tells the One such innovation began when Hans Locher – a young story of origins and development radio operator officer and engineer with experience in wireless signaling – was inspired by the idea of develop- This year USTER®STATISTICS celebrates its 60th an- ing a machine to measure yarn evenness. Peter Hätten- niversary – so it is fitting to review the origins of this schwiler was his assistant at Zellweger. Local spinners world-renowned textile bench marking tool. And what provided the impetus, with their request to have measur- better way than to hear the stor y first hand from some- able data on the evenness of their yarns – and on those one who was closely involved right from the start? of their competitors. They saw this as an aid to accurate PeterHättenschwiler,who devoted his entire working life pricing, improved quality and forecasting the ‘weavability’ to USTER,reveals the facts behind the remarkable suc- of material made from their yarns. cess of a concept which was never actually intended to become quite so ‘famous’. The first evenness tester was based on a radio field, with a sender and a receiver. The yarn was passed through Peter Hättenschwiler celebrated his 90th birthday on Sep- this field, and any defect would cause a disturbance in tember 26. He was born in St. Gallen (Switzerland), a city transmission. This enabled thick and thin places in yarns dubbed the ‘ capital’. Demand for lace and embroi- to be measured by an electronic signal and illustrated by dery fluctuated during the 20th Century, but the indus- a line showing deflections. try was badly hit by the after-effects of the First World War and then by global economic crisis of the late 1920s. This ability to visualize yarn evenness was a big success, Fashion trends were also turning away from the decora- but the next step was even more important: to describe tive look at this time. Hättenschwiler’s father was among yarn evenness objectively in figures. For this, Zellweger many who lost their jobs in the downturn, and the family applied the principles of the planimeter, used by archi- moved to Wald, in the Zurich highlands, where compa- tects to calculate floorplan dimensions, to work out the nies in other textile sectors were still prospering. space between deflection lines. This was the foundation for the original USTER®STANDARDS, published in 1957. Even so, university was still not an option Values and benchmarks for Hättenschwiler. Hans Locher collected a large number of textile samples, Instead, he started from Switzerland and from abroad. Along with Hätten- work as an appren- schwiler and a lab assistant, he measured these in the tice in the precision textile laboratory and developed quality standards. These engineering depart- standards have since become recognized by official na- ment of Zellweger tional and international organizations for standardiza- Uster, a well-estab- tion. “Hans Locher received a doctorate of technical sci- lished and sizeable enceshonoraris causa from the ETH Zurich for this work, company which had as well as for other achievements. With these standards a good reputation as it was possible to determine the quality of a textile cross- a breeding ground for mechanics. Located in the nearby section on a global scale for the first time,” recalls Hät- city of Uster, the company was then producing a range of tenschwiler. textile machines for domestic and export markets. World War Two saw the collapse of the export business, and The textile industry was impressed when the first of these Zellweger Uster began to diversify into other product ar- reference values were published over three pages of the eas, including coffee refiners, electric cheese grinders and Melliand textile magazine 60 years ago, and soon began radio equipment. to ask for more like silk and bast fibers. The extended standards were given the name USTER®STATISTICS. The step forward into new technology in the emerging field of electronics was a logical advance from the radio Over the years, the demand for yarn reference values expertise, boosted by the availability of a new generation increased with every new kind of yarn being developed, of well-educated engineers as businesses shifted their fo- with the growth of man-made fiber types such as poly- cus from wartime defense-oriented activities. Zellweger amid and viscose becoming very popular. Zellweger Uster took advantage of the trend by growing as a technology continued to collect yarn quality values worldwide and enterprise, with an extensive portfolio of product inven- the mass of data available was continuously increasing. tions and patents. “Of course a lot of manpower was needed to elaborate the USTER®STATISTICS, but the spinners and also the Cornerstone of USTER®STATISTICS

28 www.textilevaluechain.com December 2017 BRAND UPDATE machine manufacturers appreciated the free reference globally. values,” says Hättenschwiler. The USTER®STATISTICS are an undoubtedly a wonderful The sheer volume of data for comparing yarn quality pa- ‘invention’ – even though they were not actually invented rameters was becoming quite difficult to handle but this as such. In fact they evolved as vital bench mark values also presented a new opportunity. USTER®STATISTICS out of an urgent need by the industry to compare yarn was transformed into a bench marking tool. This in- quality. That process of evolution in response to indus- novation meant that the values were not actually listed try requirements might well be the secret of their success but were instead bundled in standard categories of during the past six decades. “We were proud of the Statis- 5%, 25%, 50%, 75% and 95%. These were known as the tics because it was genius as well as helpful at that time. USTER®STATISTICS Percentile figures,used to rate a par- That’s all. We were much too modest to believe that what ticular parameter based on comparisonsof quality lev- we made could have a big impact on the company’s repu- elsfor each yarn type and blend being produced by mills tation as a technological leader,” says Hättenschwiler.

NEWS 22nd AEPC Export Awards 2016-17 presentation ceremony The Union Minister for Textiles and Information & Broad- industry that the Government is working on facilitating casting, Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani said that the Ministry of the industry in accessing new markets through various Textiles is implementing a Knowledge Network Manage- bilateral and multilateral dialogues and negotiations. ment System (KNMS) to facilitate exchange of knowledge Talking about the awards, Minister of State, Textiles, Shri amongst academia, farming community and the industry Ajay Tamta complimented AEPC for honouring apparel on the productivity of natural fibres and diversification of exporters who have excelled in export performance. He their bye-products. This is one of the follow-up actions recalled the importance of the apparel Industry in pro- taken by the Government, to carry forward the success of viding livelihood to a large number of skilled and semi- the mega textiles trade event, Textiles India 2017. skilled workers in the country. The Textiles Minister said that focussed attention is being CEO, NITI Aayog, Shri Amitabh Kant said that textiles sec- given to improve market access of Indian exporters, and tor is important since it provides growth with jobs. He that the Government is looking at solutions for all parts of said that the Aayog accords a great importance to the the sector. Smt. Irani said that huge focus is being laid on textile and apparel sector due to this reason. up-skilling of various people involved in the textiles sec- tor. She added that the Ministry is working on a policy The 22nd AEPC Export Awards 2016-17 were held at a measure that would be a shot in the arm for the silk and glittering ceremony in Hotel Le Meridien, New Delhi. The jute sectors. The Minister also extended her heartiest awards recognized the top achievers of the apparel in- congratulations to the winners of the awards. dustry across a wide range of KPIs and rewarded the best performers in a total of 18 categories. The Commerce and Industry Minister Shri Suresh Prabhu said that the Ministry has been taking various measures Chairman, Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC), Shri to enable the textiles sector realize its potential. He high- Ashok Rajani, leading garment exporters of the country lighted the importance of global trade in fostering growth, and AEPC officials were among others present on the oc- and the role of market research in discovering new terri- casion. tories and coming up with new products. He ensured the

29 December 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com NEWS ‘Best Industry-Linked Technical Institute-2017 Award For –DKTE Well known for its application oriented textile and en- a three-and-half month long survey and DKTE emerged gineering education and close ties with the textile as the winner in this exhaustive nature of national level industry,DKTE Society’s Textile and Engineering Institute, survey. Ichalkaranji has emerged as ‘Best Industry-Linked Techni- Prof Dr. P.V.Kadole Director DKTE mentioned that the in- cal Institute’ (under the category of Chemical & Allied En- stitute’s intensive interaction with industries has fetched gineering) in the nation-wide survey conducted jointly by top position among the institutes participated in this sur- All India Council for Technical Education (AICTE) and Con- vey. For the progress of industries, DKTE has made many federation of Indian Industries (CII). Cadila Pharmaceuti- MOUs with industries in the areas of research and devel- cal Award for Best Industry-Linked Technical Institute was opment, training, consultancy and joint publications. Ex- presented to DKTE by Prof. Anil D Sahasrabudhe, Chair- cellence in Teaching - Learning Process and industry in- man AICTE, Mr Vijay Thadani, Chairman, CII National Com- stitute interaction have taken the name of the institute to mittee on Higher Education Mr. Ashutosh Sharma, Secre- the national and international level.” tary, DST, GoI at 7th Global University–Industry Congress concluded on 8th December 2017 at AICTE head quarters, New Delhi. The objective of this survey was to assess and reward the institutes with good industry interaction. An exhaustive survey was conducted to assess the cur- rent status of partnership between Institutes and Indus- try. It has been designed keeping six basic parameters in mind such as faculty, infrastructure, placements, govern- ance, curriculum and research & services. The survey was conducted in three stages. In the first stage short survey, 9525 technical institutes participated and 4790 institutes were short listed. In the second stage full survey 2162 disciplines from 786 institutes participated. In final stage, subsequent screening and short listing was done by an eminent jury comprising experts from industry and aca- demia. The best performing institutes were selected after COLORANT Ltd ,Ahmedabad sponsors SDC Technical Sem- inar –Bhiwandi held at Thane West ( Maharastra)

Mr Subhash Bhargava ,Technocrat Founder ,Colorant Ltd shades and Colron GLX/Colron CES dyes to be used for was the Guest of Honour at the half day Seminar based Dark/Heavy Dark Shades. All these dyes are giving very on ‘’ Automise,Optimise or Perish good results all over India and abroad . The seminar was arranged by the SDC India officials and attended by Bhi- He also explained how this theme is vital to any industry . wandi process house owners and technicians . There was He emphasized more on Textile and Dyes industries that technical in- those industries have survived till date who have intro- teraction be- duced more of automation and optimizing the process tween the parameters and more thought about innovation.He also audience and emphasized on being an SME ,COLORANT has introduced COLORANT time to time new innovative reactive dyes to become a technical team consistent supplier in reactive dyes and catering to 650 led by Dr Ma- end users and exporting to about 15 countries. Then Dr hapatra, Mr Mahapatra ,President ,Colorant Ltd spoke about the “ Re- Chetan Mulani active Dyes –Past,Present and Future in which he men- & Mr Sunil Jad- tioned the new ranges of Reactive Dyes launched by COL- hav . ORANT Ltd since last few years which save time,energy ,water etc in dyeing of cotton fabrics.He emphasized on using Colron CN and Colron SF dyes for Light/Medium

30 www.textilevaluechain.com December 2017 NEWS Rupa & Company To Launch ‘Fruit Of The Loom’ Inner- wear Brand In India Soon

Kolkata-based Rupa tered into a License Agreement with Fruit of the Loom, to & Company, one of acquire the exclusive license from Fruit of the Loom Inc, India’s largest knit- to manufacture, distribute, advertise and sell innerwear wear manufacturers, as well as outerwear products for men, boys, women, has announced plans girls and toddlers in India. to launch the ‘Fruit of Fruit of the Loom products are being manufactured in the Loom’ innerwear Tirupur, Indore, Daman and Chennai. brand in India shortly. Incidentally, it is the second international brand, which Fruit of the Loom, will be manufactured and marketed in India by the Rupa based in Kentucky, is Group after FCUK, which according to the company is do- a subsidiary of Berk- ing well in India. shire Hathaway, and one of the largest manufacturers and marketers of innerwear, T-shirts and fleece in the The Rupa Group is gearing up for rapid expansion and ex- world. ploring multiple opportunities in global brand licensing, the company said. The company will launch 87 styles across men’s and wom- en’s range at 2,500 stores by the end of this month, Rupa The company stated that it wants to combines its huge said, adding that the price range of Fruit of the Loom manufacturing and distribution capabilities with the kno- would be from Rs 150 to Rs 400, maximum retail price. whow of international brands. Earlier this year, Rupa’s subsidiary Oban Fashions had en- Alcis Sports Launches First Mono-Brand Store In Kochi

Alcis Sports has launched its first mono-brand store in In- of cost for the first month and for a nominal cost there- dia at the Lulu mall, one of the largest malls of India, in after. Customers can also avail of some cool inaugural of- Kochi, Kerala. fers from Alcis – one can buy any Alcis Product and get a FIFA t-shirt and singlet combo pack worth Rs 999 at Rs 249 Alcis Sports has one of the widest ranges in the per- only, or buy Alcis merchandise worth Rs 1498 and get an formance wear and ath-leisure segment, with specific Alcis duffel bag worth Rs 999 free. Customers also stand a clothing for running, training, yoga, football and racquet chance to get a football free on buying Alcis merchandise sports. The store will be a comprehensive one-stop shop worth Rs 999. showcasing its entire range. Alcis Sports will soon open up other exclusive stores In what would be music to the ears of football lovers in across the country following Kochi. Kochi, Alcis Sports is the exclusive licensee for the official fanwear merchandise of 2018 FIFA World Cup Russia, and Currently, Alcis has 150 shop-in-shops already operation- the new store will feature the upcoming range. al in the large-format outlets like Globus, Shoppers Stop, Sports Station and Central. “As we are trying to chart out a new path for ourselves at Alcis Sports by opening our first ever exclusive store, it is an exciting yet challenging phase for us. Alcis Sports aims to offer top-notch quality at aggressive price points, and we are very upbeat about the response that the brand has received so far from discerning consumers. We are extremely happy that we are starting this journey of hav- ing exclusive stores with the city of Kochi, which is known for its culture of sports.” said Roshan Baid, Managing Di- rector, Alcis Sports at the launch of the store. The new Alcis Sports store in Kochi will offer some amaz- ing customisation offers wherein customers can wear their outfit their way. As part of the programme, custom- ers can have any name and number of their choice print- ed at the back of singlet, t-shirt, sweatshirt or tracksuit on the spot. The company is offering this customization free 31 December 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com NEWS

The Mid-Tem Review of Foreign Trade Policy 2015-20 is dis- appointing for the manmade fibre textile segment The Mid-term Review of the Foreign Trade Policy the Council expects that the Government may shortly (FTP) 2015-20 has been released by the Minister of Com- come out with another list of items with revised MEIS merce and Industry, Shri Suresh Prabhu in New Delhi in rates. the presence of the Minister of State for Commerce and The Government has already announced increase in Industry, Shri CR Chaudhary, Finance Secretary, Shri Has- MEIS incentives from 2 percent to 4 percent for Ready- mukh Adhia, Commerce Secretary, Smt. Rita Teaotia, Sec- made Garments and Made Ups in the labour intensive retary Department of Industrial Policy & Promotion, Shri Textiles Sector with an additional annual incentive of Rs. Ramesh Abhishek and the Director General of Foreign 2,743 crore. The Council will again represent to the Gov- Trade, Shri Alok Chaturvedi. ernment and send representations further for increasing Commenting on the Mid-Tem Review of Foreign Trade MEIS rates to 7% on more MMF made-ups. Policy 2015-20, Shri Srinarain Aggarwal, Chairman, Chairman, SRTEPC has welcomed the Government’s ini- SRTEPC stated that although the Mid-term review had ad- tiative to restore the benefits under the export promotion dressed a host of the issues from GST to ‘Ease of Trading’ schemes of duty free imports under Advanced Authori- across borders, it has grossly overlooked the manmade sation, Export Promotion Capital Goods and 100 percent fibre segment of the country that has been reeling un- Export Oriented Units and commented that this imitative der GST with asymmetrical input taxes and inverted duty will suitably resolve the problem of working capital block- structure, besides facing fierce competition in overseas age for exporters following the roll out of GST. markets. Chairman, SRTEPC informed that the Council had sent various representations to the Ministry of Tex- The extension of validity period of Duty Credit Scrips from tiles and Ministry of Commerce and Industry, Govern- 18 to 24 months, reduction of GST rates on transfer/sale ment of India requesting increase of MEIS rates on all the of scrips to zero, support of Export Credit Guarantee Cor- fabrics, made-ups and yarns of manmade fibres. Recent- poration enhanced to increase insurance cover to export- ly, it had sent a list of 167 MMF items in these categories ers particularly MSME’s exploring new or difficult markets, to the Ministry of Commerce and Industry requesting to introduction of a new scheme of Self-Assessment based increase the MEIS rates. However, post Mid-term review duty free procurement of inputs required for exports, the Government’s Notifications on revision of the MEIS setting up of a State-of-the-Art Trade Analytics division in rates, there are only 7 fabrics and 4 made-up items which DGFT for data based policy actions, introduction of a new is a total disappointment for the manmade fibre textile Logistics Division in the Department of Commerce and segment of the country, Chairman, SRTEPC added. Focus to Ease of Trading across borders are the positive steps taken by the Government through the Mid-term re- As per the Review statement to increase 2 percent MEIS view, the Chairman, SRTEPC stated. rates across the board for labour intensive MSME sectors leading to additional annual incentive of Rs. 4,567 crore,

Woods Apparel To Get Separate Stores For Its Fashion & Casual Wear

Aero Club, the maker and retailer of the Woodland brand around 40% driven by this network expansion, he said. of footwear and apparel plans to start a separate retail He said that the Woodland footwear and apparel brand network for its fashion and casual wear brand called aims to reach a Rs 2,000-crore top line over the next Woods. three years, aided by diversification and network expan- “We plan to open 10 to 15 stores in metro and non-met- sion, adding that with a total business of around Rs 1,200 ro locations for Woods,” Aero Club Managing Director crore, the company is growing at 15% every year. Harkirat Singh said recently, adding that his company has “We have a network of 600 stores and are adding 30 to already opened a few outlets for its Woods fashion and 40 new Woodland footwear stores every year. The e-com- casual wear brand. merce channel is also growing and it constitutes around “Woods has its offerings in the casual as well as luxury 15% of the business. We are selling through our own por- segment and also reaches out to women buyers,” said tal as well as online marketplaces,” Singh said. Singh who launched a new range of jackets catering to dif- In the eastern region, the company plans to add around ferent customer requirements during the winter season. eight more stores, taking its network to over 50 stores, The contribution of Woods to the company’s total busi- while entering newer markets like Nagaland. ness is expected to increase from around 25% to 30% to

32 www.textilevaluechain.com December 2017 SHOW CALENDAR

January 2018 13-15 Premiere Vision Paris / Italy 9-12 Heimtextil https://www.premierevision.com/en/ Frankfurt/Germany www.heimtextil.messefrankfurt.com March 2018 frankfurt/en.html 13-15 FILTECH 11-14 Texposure Textile Exhibitions Cologne/ Germany Ichalkaranji/ Maharashtra / India www.filtech.de www.texposure.in 14-16 Intertextile 15-18 TEHRANTEX Shanghai/ China Tehran/ Iran http://intertextile-shanghai-apparel-fabrics-spring. www.tehrantex.com hk.messefrankfurt.com/shanghai/envisitors welcome.html 19-22 UDYOG 2017 Surat /Gujrat/ India April 2018 www.sgcci.in 5-7 Fibers & Yarns 19-22 GTE 2018 Mumbai / India Delhi/ India http://www.fibersnyarns.com/ www.garmenttechnologyexpo.com 14-17 ITM 2018 / HIGHTEX 2018 23-25 Colombiatex 2018 Istanbul/ Turkey Medellin/ Colombia/ USA www.itmexhibition.com www.colombiatex.inexmoda.org.co www.hightex2018.com 26-28 G Tex 2018 19-21 TPF Digital Printing Karachi/ Pakistan Shanghai/ China www.gtexglobal.com http://2016.cstpf.com/en-us/index 26-29 Knit World 25-28 TEXTYLE EXPO Ludhiana / Punjab / India Oran, Algeria www.knitworldexhibition.com http://textyle-expo.com 27-29 Solapur Uniform Garment & Manufacturers Fair 24-26 International Apparel & Textile Fair Solapur / Maharashtra/ India Dubai / UAE www.sgma.in http://www.internationalapparelandtextilefair. com 29-30 National Garment Fair Mumbai/ Maharashtra/ India May 2018 www.cmai.in 22-24 Texprocess Americas February 2018 Georgia / USA LLhttp://texprocess-americas.us.messefrankfurt. 2-3 Tex Novation com/atlanta/en/for_exhibitors/welcome.html Mumbai/Maharashtra/ India www.texnovation.com June 2018 3-6 Knitvision 6-8 Non Woven Tech Asia 2018 Ludhiana/ Punjab/ India Mumbai/ India www.knit-vision.com www.nonwoventechasia.com 6-8 Millano Unica July 2018 Milan/ Italy 9-11 NGF 2018 www.milanounica.it Mumbai/ India 6-8 Intertex Milano 2018 www.cmai.in Milan/ Italy www.intertex-milano.it 8-11 DTG Dhaka/ Bangladesh www.bangla-expo.com/dtg/

33 December 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com &RYHU3ULFH 5V 5V 5V 5V LVVXHV 5V 5V

34 www.textilevaluechain.com December 2017 INTERVIEW China Textile Machinery Association Participates In ITMACH 2017 China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA), established the country. Also they could not see the result of seminars on May 19, 1990, is a corporate body approved by the during the exhibition as envisaged. Ministry of Civil Affairs of PRC (People’s Republic of China) Nevertheless this is the first time association for this ex- It is comprised of Chinese textile machinery and acces- hibition. Next time, we can anticipate organizing better sories manufacturers and institutions, with 662 entrepre- exhibition with expected outcome & targeted visitors for neurs. CTMA has won the AAAA grade in the National in- business possibilities. dustrial associations’ assessment for its clear regulations and normalized operations. Some satisfactory industry visits, government policies & support extended by Bhavesh Thakar, co organiser M/s Exclusive Interview with Mr. Gu Ping, Vice President of Spinners Association (Gujarat) is a point of appreciation CTMA & Ms. He Lei, CCPIT TEX representative. there. 1. How did your as- 3. Who are the main competitors for Chinese Textile sociation with K&D Machinery Industry? ITMACH begin? China competes mainly with Europe, India, Taiwan &Ja- Our discussion with pan textile machinery manufacturers. Chinese textile ITMACH team start- machinery is in complete categories and whole set. Chi- ed before 2 years. nese enterprises could supply equipment and whole set After visiting India solution with European standard to India customers. We last year, we had understand that majority of Indian companies are using decided to proceed European Machinery over Chinese machinery. However, with K&D ITMACH we insist prospective Indian customers to believe that in the year 2016 and Chinese machinery is price competitive. At the right price; developed a good you can get the same technology of Chinese products and relationship. In high-quality follow-up services and enhance the competi- 2008, CTMA & CCIP- tiveness of India textile enterprises in terms of quality, TEX had conducted exhibition in Coimbatore at a small cost and profitability. level. The ITMACH Exhibition this time was planned at a bigger scale; more than 100 manufacturers joined and oc- The other countries that we are partnering with are Indo- cupied nearly 3000 sqm exhibition area. The exhibitors nesia, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Turkey etc. are all Chinese top manufacturers which are well-known There is a very important textile machinery exhibition - in the categories, quality and market share. For exam- Chinese International Textile Machinery Exhibition -ITMA ple: CHINA TEXTILE MACHINERY (GROUP) CO., LTD.; PA- Asia +CITME we held biennial in China. The influence of CIFIC MECHATRONIC GROUP(SHANGHAI) TECHNOLOGY the exhibition in Asia and the world is big. It has been held CO.,LTD.; CHTC FONG’S INDUSTRIES COMPANY LIMITED, since 2008 with European textile machinery manufactur- etc. They are all interested with an objective of larger busi- ers association, has been successfully held five sessions, ness prospects in India, especially in Gujarat where the next year the sixth session will be held in Shanghai Oc- probabilities of investment from investors and garnering tober 2018. Complete sets of equipment will be focused support of State Government are higher. on the continuous and automatic, digital and intelligent 2. What was the response of the members about par- whole set solution etc. for the buyers’ choice. India visi- ticipating in this exhibition? tors are warmly welcomed to join us. The exhibitors who participated this time were mainly 4. How does the association dealt with the cases of from spinning, weaving, knitting, processing segments. disputes ? Some of the exhibitors are happy while some are not. The cost of the exhibition is carried out in accordance with The companies who have already has agent in India have the terms and agreements of the two sides under the Chi- gained more, while the companies who display in India nese contractual terms and agreements. There should for the first time have got less attention. The quantity of be no problems in this respect. Some on-site temporary visitors is not very satisfied. The visitors that had come needs and the services provided by the organizers are were mostly from Surat, Rajkot and local textile areas. not fully met, which may require mediation at the scene, This exhibition can be perceived more as a regional ex- but also help exhibitors to solve the default and related hibition rather than a National Exhibition as there was a disputes and problems in accordance with the two way scarcity of visitors from other clusters & territories across contract.

35 December 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com INTERVIEW

Scope of value addition - from Cotton Bales to Garment

ning, Spinning industry is set in Textile by now. Further encouraging to it may result in over capacity to attract consequences.Gujarat has got 35-40 lac spindles in spin- ning segment. Knitting, weaving, processing, garmenting sector should be taken into consideration into new textile policy. Gujarat government’s 2012-2017 policy is focusing mainly on textile industry. State Governments like Maharashtra, Telangana, Andhra Pradesh also focusing on textile in their new policy. It’s really high time as India hasstill got a provision of 50% value addition, whereas our neighbour- ing country is going leaps and bounds in garmenting sec- tor. Mr Dilip Patel visited some of the exhibitors of ITMACH / ITS (Indian Textile Sourcing) with Sec Gen Mr Bhavesh In A Conversation With Dilip Patel, Vice President Thakar to know more about the technology, innovations & Bhavesh Thakar, Secretary General Of Spinner & produces displayed in ITMACH INDIA 2017. Exhibitors Association(Gujarat), The Co – Organiser Of ITMACH IN- exchanged market idea & learnt about the scopes & sup- DIA / ITSE 2017 ports. Technology is the real need for industry was the ex- Cotton Bales production in India is approximately 4crore- tract of their joint discussions. The innovations explained syearly out of which appx0.60 crore bales being exported by Mr Naresh Mistry& Mr Jayesh Mistry at their Stall of per year, fetching revenue of Rs. 12,000 crores. If this raw Perfect Equipments Pvt Ltd were appreciated. cotton is converted into finished garments, it may gener- ate revenue up to 108000crores. Also, if entire yarn pro- duction converted into garments, it would get us revenue worth Rs 2,00,000 crores whereas export of yarn if taken for export which is fetching us revenue worth Rs 45000 crores excluded, net of yarn converted into garments in India can reap us revenue worth Rs1,55,000 crores. The totalling of Bales & Yarn together may get us revenue for Rs 2,63,000 crores.The Difference in revenue is huge by value addition. If we really focus on value addition and conversion, many jobs can be created and economy will get a boost by this new initiative. Expressly need to con- vert entire bales production with value addition. Value addition from cotton to garment is just 50% so far. Government should focus on this segment. Indian Gin-

FASHION TIPS

Party Ethnic / SIZZLE THE LEHENGA Parties are not only about western outfits and cropped glit- tery attires. You can suit yourself well like the B-town does, in some Desi avatar. Wear a jumpsuit lehenga to dance with ease or go the unconventional by teaming up the ethnic le- henga skirt with a collared silk shirt. Combinations are just the beginning, what truly matters is the right fit and the per- fect style. The floor is ready for you to march in to have a ball!

36 www.textilevaluechain.com December 2017 FASHION TIPS

Tie the scarf / KNOT IS IN Stay bundled up. Stay stylish and tie the scarf around your neck to keep the winter at bay. Be it the warm cashmere effect or the puffy linen feeling, scarves can never go wrong and leave your side on your style path. Most loyal, scarves are the real hero this winter! Team them up and layer it with your fashion indulgences.

Year-End Dressing / GLITZY GLAM Let gold rule your party wardrobe this holiday season. Metallics act as the dress code for your year-end parties. Take the hue to new heights with a pair of silky, wide-leg gold pants styled with a sheer metallic blouse. Sheer it or add a dash of style by letting gold rule the grid, whatever your doing, you will surely be the showstopper of the next party.

Boot in Style / HEEL TALK A basic boot is not too happening anymore. Try out some stylish boot trends, that surely turns every head in your next party. High shine knee-high boots are in and let your feet do the talking each time you walk up and down. Add some colour and shine and this pair of boot surely teases the most stylish even!

37 December 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com 38 www.textilevaluechain.com December 2017 39 December 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com