Carvin H Goldstone MEET Be Kiff

July-September 2021

e-edition yours forever - download me please

Carvin H keep Goldstone one (and Ewok) eye open*

* Seductive sleeps in Sabie, stoked on waves in J-Bay + dreamy designs in the Delta RESORT STYLE APARTMENTS from R2.9m sTANDS from R3.5M PARADISE FOUND 104 on Creek resort-style apartments at Steyn City offer everything you desire – and more. Get your adrenaline pumping on the 50km mountain bike trail or jog on the 45km promenade. Play a round of golf on our Nicklaus design championship course nestled in our 2000 acres of indigenous parkland. This piece of paradise has 24/7 security to provide peace of mind while you enjoy all the amenities you could ever wish for.

www.steyncity.co.za RESORT STYLE APARTMENTS from R2.9m sTANDS from R3.5M Welcome to a special, commemorative exhibition

This year marks several momentous milestones for the Bag Factory. Not only is the organisation celebrating its 30th anniversary, but it is also proud to be hosting the Cassirer Welz Award 10-year retrospective 1.

The Cassirer Welz Award, presented solo exhibition of new work. Through the You can enjoy these artworks in annually in partnership with long-term exchange of ideas, mentorship and skills two different ways. They’ve popped sponsor Strauss&Co, is celebrating development provided during this time, the up at the new precinct, Oxford Parks 10 years with a special commemorative artist has an opportunity for substantial in Dunkeld. Make an appointment to retrospective exhibition. Founded in creative and professional growth. visit the gallery and grab a coffee to 2011 by the late Nobel Laureate, Nadine enjoy while you discover the work of Gordimer, as a tribute to her husband SHOWCASING THE previous winners. Reinhold Cassirer’s love of the arts, the WORKS OF WINNERS There’s also an exciting online Reinhold Cassirer Award has grown into In this 10-year retrospective exhibition of show that can be viewed in full 3D a prestigious visual art award known for the Cassirer Welz Award, the Bag Factory on the Bag Factory’s website www. locating and acknowledging excellence in showcases early and new work by previous bagfactoryart.org.za. Watch the artists emerging local artists. winners Tshepo Masopa (2011), Blessing share how bagging this prestigious Ngobeni (2012), Asanda Kupa (2013), award has impacted their work. PAYING TRIBUTE Thato Nhlapo (2014), Keneilwe Mokoena You’ll have a front-row seat from the After Gordimer’s passing in 2014, (2015), Nompumelelo Ngoma (2016), comfort of your home. Strauss&Co. pledged its continued Richard ‘Specs’ Ndimande (2017), Olivia Thank you to Strauss&Co. and support to the award. Following the Botha (2018), Duduzile ‘Dudubloom’ More BASA’s supporting grants programme passing of Stephan Welz in 2015, the (2019) and Levy Pooe (2020). for making this possible. Reinhold Cassirer Award was renamed the Cassirer Welz Award as a fitting tribute to the two men who contributed so much to the South African art world. VISIT THE EXHIBITION Each year, an emerging South African Dates: 24 July to 12 September 2021 artist under the age of 35 in the field of Address: Oxford Parks, 199 Oxford Road, Dunkeld, Johannesburg drawing or painting, is chosen to spend 10 We’re open by appointment only, please email [email protected] or call weeks in residence at the Bag Factory’s 011 834 9181 to come through Monday to Friday, 9am to 5pm. studios, culminating in the artist’s first Dis Net Ek / It’s Just Me III Oil on board 20.5 x 17.7 cm 2. 3.

Safe Rising (1), 2021 Handmade disks with found cardboard and acrylic wool on canvas 51 x 51 x 5cm

10.

5. 8.

1. Goat Head, 2020, Richard ’Specs’ Ndimande 2. Inkululeko ingaphakathi, 2021, Asanda Kupa 3. Dis Net Ek / It’s Just Me lll, Olivia Botha 4. Without Skin We Pink, 2020, Blessing Ngobeni 5. In my mother’s house, 2020, Nompumelelo Ngoma 6. Transit 2016, Tshepo Masopa 7. Joyous rebirth, 2021, Thato Nhlapo 8. Busking In The City III, 2021, Levy Pooe 9. Safe Rising (1), 2021, Duduzile ‘DuduBloom’ More 10. Untitled | 22, 2021, Keneilwe Mokoena

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ave you heard of chessboxing? Or zorbing, Neither is Afghanistan’s national sport, for that matter. which involves getting inside a large inflatable Buzkashi (or ‘goat pulling’) is a team sport in which transparent orb and then rolling – helplessly – horseback-mounted players drag an animal carcass around H down a hillside? It’s a skill-free activity in which and score goals by throwing it through a hoop. you get tossed around in this big ball until eventually you Still, there is hope for outsider sports. This year, karate, come to a stop. A South African holds the Guinness-certified skateboarding, sport climbing and surfing are first-time record for the longest distance travelled in a single roll – he Olympic events; and baseball and softball – previously cut went 570 metres! from the Games – are back on the programme. Thing is, as extreme as zorbing can get if you find a steep There’ll also be a few new events within existing sports. enough hill, no-one’s yet found a meaningful competitive There’ll be three-on-three basketball, and – in keeping with angle, so while it’s a fun thing to watch your drunk friends the times – mixed-gender relays in swimming and in some do, it’s safe to say it’ll never be classified as a sport. athletics events will also feature. Extreme ironing, though, now there’s a sport to raise the Yet, while the Tokyo Games will see competitors rising adrenaline. Don’t underestimate the desired level of danger to the challenge in 339 different events across 33 unique involved, either. The idea is to take your ironing board to sports, none of Japan’s own traditional sporting codes are some far-out location where you then proceed to iron your among them. way through your laundry. It’s been done on mountainsides, So you won’t, for example, be able to try and figure out the whilst snowboarding, in canoes, even by skydivers in mid-air. rules of bo-taoshi, a crazy, wildly chaotic team sport with The Extreme Ironing Bureau’s official definition is that 150 players on each side. Nor will you see Japan’s highly it is a ‘danger sport that combines the thrills of an ritualised sumo wrestling, which is a shame since few sports extreme outdoor activity with the satisfaction of a these days include the rule that losing your loincloth well-pressed shirt’. means instant defeat. As seriously as it’s taken by thrill-seekers Also, if these ancient Japanese sports are still who hate wrinkled clothing, it is – like such being overlooked by the Olympic organisers, outlier sports as bog snorkelling, caber what chance does a brilliant modern-day tossing, wife-carrying, cheese rolling and hybrid invention like chessboxing stand of ever quidditch – unlikely to find its way into the being inducted into the Games? And what of our mainstream Olympic schedule anytime soon. very own lintonga, skununu or jukskei?

@iflykulula @iflykulula @kulula kulula.com kulula.com

kulula.com JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 3 July 2021

e-edition yours forever - download me please

Carvin H All the web addresses keep Goldstone one (and Ewok) you see in this magazine eye open* are clickable. Just hover your cursor over the URL and click.

* Seductive sleeps in Sabie, stoked on waves in J-Bay + dreamy designs in the Delta an i n d PUBLISHED BY r v E w a PICASSO HEADLINE

t a proud division of Arena Holdings

Contents e

Hill on Empire, 16 Empire Road (cnr Hillside Road),

JULY 2021 M Parktown, Johannesburg 2193 PO Box 12500, Mill Street, Cape Town, 8010

EDITORIAL Editor Keith Bain Copy Editor Nicci Collier Content Manager Raina Julies – [email protected] Content Co-ordinator Vanessa Payne

ART 11 25 Head of Design Studio Jayne Macé-Ferguson Senior Designer Mfundo Archie Ndzo EXPERIENCE Junior Designer Bulelwa Sotashe Production Editor Shamiela Brenner 7 THE SOCIAL SPACE Cover Photographer Sven Kristian Take care out there. 11 TOKYO DREAMING SALES You can’t go to the Games, but Project Manager Merryl Klein – you can taste a bit of Tokyo. [email protected], +27 82 895 7260 Sales Consultants Stephen Crawford, EXPLORE Richard White Advertising co-ordinator Johan Labuschagne 17 REST ASSURED Stay awhile in Mpumalanga’s management most enchanted valley. Business Manager Lodewyk van der Walt – 25 SAFARI BY DESIGN 49 [email protected] Management Accountant Deidre Musha Between game drives and mokoro rides, General Manager, Magazines Jocelyne Bayer explore Africa’s finest design collection. 31 BUT, BABY, IT’S COLD OUTSIDE Kulula.com Chief Executive Officer Comair Ltd Glenn Orsmond Chill, they said. Forget about it! Executive Manager Sales and Marketing, kulula.com 54 37 J-BAY’S ENDLESS SUMMER Brian Kitchin There’s no cancelling these waves. Brand Communictions Manager, kulula.com Luane Lavery DISCOVER Comair Limited 44 TONY TASTES THE BURN 1 Marignane Drive, Bonaero Park, Kempton Park, 1619 The late, great Anthony Bourdain warms Tel: 011 921 0111 | kulula.com | contact centre: u 0861 KULULA (585852) his taste buds in Mozambique. urf’s p S ,

47 HOME AND AWAY d u Copyright: No portion of this magazine may be reproduced in any form Tights to keep you dry, a winter hideaway d without written consent of the publisher. The publisher is not responsible for e unsolicited material. khuluma is published monthly by Picasso Headline. ! at the Waterfront, and a springbok- The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of Picasso Headline, kulula or Arena Holdings. All advertisements/advertorials and promotions have been inspired robot built for Mars. paid for and therefore do not carry any endorsement by the publisher. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither 54 A FEW GOOD BOOKS kulula, nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors, or for any misfortune, injury or damages that may arise therefrom. We reserve Hot reads for a cold month. the right to edit interviews for layout purposes. 37

4 JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 kulula.com

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1. Dev’s quest Coming to cinemas on 30 July, The Green Knight is an epic fantasy steeped in legend and legendary characters. Dev Patel plays King Arthur’s reckless nephew, Sir Gawain, on a quest to face off against some scarily oversized green-skinned stranger. His mission is laced with danger, designed to suspend our disbelief as the ﬁlm whisks us off to a realm where true heroes and mystical creatures really exist.

kulula.com JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 7 EXPERIENCE SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE

4 2

2. Midwinter’s dream 3. Something fishy 4. Who’s your tutu? There’s a long tradition of It’s perhaps a bit devastating Pictured are Xinyue Zhao Shakespeare being performed that we would need such and Chongzheng Guan – in the park. Known for their a thing, but 1 August is the the duo from the National musicals and summer first-ever Marine Protected Ballet of China won double pantomimes, Kickstart is firing Areas Day, when focus will gold at last year’s South up one of the Bard’s best-loved be brought to the 42 MPAs African International Ballet comedies, A Midsummer Night's along South Africa’s coastline. Competition. The 8th edition of Dream for a short run (23 July–1 We all know the problems, this major dance competition August) under moonlight at so here’s a day dedicated to will be a hybrid event with Durban Botanic Gardens. Don't addressing them, and perhaps some dancers taking part worry, there’ll be electrical getting involved in projects and onstage at Artscape Opera lights, too, and if Eskom gives clean-ups and consciousness House in Cape Town and others up the ghost the play features drives that will help get the sea competing via pre-recorded enough fairies who’ll cast a and the planet back on track. video submissions. The live romantic glow over proceedings. marineprotectedareas.org.za, competition is happening from computicket.com saambr.org.za 19 to 24 July. computicket.com

8 JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 kulula.com SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE EXPERIENCE

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5. It’s kiff at DIFF 6. The lounge singers 7. Masterchefs From 3 000 submitted films, By now, most musicians are Pictured are the masterful Chef’s the Durban International Film familiar with broadcasting from Warehouse chefs overseeing the Festival (22 July to 1 August) their homes. Multi-instrumentalist two remaining culinary weekends selection panel has curated folk-rock duo Esté and Lourens at Tintswalo at Boulders in Simon’s 120 shorts, documentaries and Rabé of Bottomless Coffee Band Town. The weekends include two feature-length films for this go one step further. For their nights’ accommodation, hands-on year’s programme, themed bespoke concert-and-wine series, food demos, a wine-tasting, dinner ‘Framing the Future, Cinema they make space for 25 people to with paired wines, lunch, breakfast, Unleashed’. Pictured is a scene watch them perform in their own and a Friday evening sundowner. from The Eagle’s Nest, which living room and invite winemakers Gordon Logan (seated) will share will open the festival. It’s by to introduce their wines. On 9 July, his kitchen know-how on 23 and Cameroonian-born British it’s the turn of Muratie – ticket 24 July, while Braam Beyers will filmmaker Olivier Assoua prices include wines, snacks, music dish out the expertise on 13 and and deals with the issue of and good conversation. 14 August. Call Jeantelle on immigration out of Africa due to To secure your place, email 021 201 0025 to enquire.

Words: Keith Bain, Pictures: A24, National Ballet of China, Steve Benjamin, Claire Gunn, Supplied Bain, Pictures: A24, National Ballet of China, Steve Keith Words: poverty. ccadiff.ukzn.ac.za [email protected] tintswalo.com

kulula.com JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 9 small airport, BIG beneﬁts 4 reasons why you should be ﬂying through Lanseria International Airport

SLOW XS Lounge ample convenient parking

Unwind and recharge at the SLOW XS Lounge just Ample parking which is easily accessible from the before taking to the skies. Enjoy complimentary Wi-Fi, terminals building. beverages and munchies, reading material plus TV and much more to keep you relaxed and entertained. Visit www.kulula.com for more details.

fast check-in avoid the crowd The airport’s small and compact size means fewer Fewer crowds allow you to have a less stressful airport crowds, making it faster to navigate through the experience while being able to maintain social distancing. check-in and boarding queues.

For more information on Lanseria click here. All strict COVID -19 protocols are observed.

iﬂykulula iﬂykulula kulula kulula.com kulula.com Love exclusive deals? Sign up to kulula.com/fanmail JAPANEASY EXPERIENCE

Tokyo dreaming

Sadly, the Olympics are off the menu for the majority of us, but that needn’t mean missing out on the best Japanese cuisine

Bento what? There can be Obi one Ubiquitous across Papa San is a legendary figure on the Far East, the Cape Town’s culinary landscape. bento originated in Having honed his craft in Tokyo, Japan and is basically he’s reigned over a couple of a meal-for-one, usually cult-level restaurants in the city either a restaurant and now rules the kitchen at take-away or packed at Long Street’s Obi Restaurant home, typically for the alongside fellow chef, Ben office. Traditionally, it’ll Bettendorf. The pair create a include rice or noodles, rich variety of traditional as well a meat dish, plus as contemporary and slightly pickled and cooked experimental Japanese dishes – vegetables. And, yes, imaginative way beyond the usual it’s packed in a rainbow rolls. Can’t decide? The box which can be a Bento Box lunch special (pictured) simple disposable has a bit of everything – miso soup, container or something prawn California rolls, a salmon quite fancy and rose, nigiri (tuna and salmon), and elaborately crafted for vegetable tempura with tentsuyu a lifetime’s use. dipping sauce. obirestaurant.co.za

kulula.com JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 11 EXPERIENCE JAPANEASY

The folk who Ōku Ōku means oak and it’s the name of Franschhoek’s only true East Asian restaurant where you can tuck into tataki (raw or slightly seared meat), chew on kakiage (tempura), and get some yakitori (skewered pork) into your belly. Those are just for starters. You will find bao and fragrant broths, too, and mains include seared tuna (with togarashi, daikon, noodles Tokyo three ways and mentsuyu), and hunks of Wagyu sirloin for R950 a portion. You have your pick of menus, Whatever happens, save room for the Japanese cheesecake. moods, decor and level of eat-oku.co.za indulgence at Tjing Tjing, Cape Town’s inner-city Japanese sanctuary. The entrance is on Longmarket Street and each Cult classics floor differs from the last. Kyoto Garden began as an Ground-level Torii is casual eccentric Tamboerskloof and serves lunch and dinner outpost obsessed with reminiscent of yokocho (street creating the sort of food alleys) – from traditional studiously authentic Japanese breakfast, hirata Japanese food you couldn’t buns and gyoza, to filling get at Cape Town’s ramen bowls (like the one ubiquitous sushi joints. Even above). Upstairs, Momiji is more their ice creams (miso- or serious, refined, and currently green tea-flavoured) are serving a five-course Omakase in a league of their own. (chef's choice) menu for R395. Plus, they have Japanese Up some more and there’s an craft beers, sakes, shochu, exquisite rooftop bar that feels and make true Japanese like pure Tokyo – colourful, cocktails. futuristic, anime-infused. kyotogarden.co.za tjingtjing.co.za Supplied du Plessis, Tristan Bain, Pictures: Bruce Tuck, Keith Words:

12 JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 kulula.com JAPANEASY EXPERIENCE

Temple of fine dine On the fifth floor of the Speakers’ Corner building near Parliament, FYN occupies a room so stately it feels like a culinary temple. Fitting then that at the helm are Peter Tempelhoff and Ashley Moss, two great chefs who create visionary multi-course dining experiences. The full kaiseki menu will demand the entire evening, but there’s a reduced menu if you have a Netflix show to catch before bedtime. fynrestaurant.com

Sensei and sensibility The newest hang-out for Sandton’s air-kissing crowd, Tang is a seriously swanky Tristan du Plessis-designed restaurant and bar. Done out in a black-and-sepia palette with lots of marble, travertine and granite, its softer accents reside in the buds of lofty cherry blossoms. Named for the dynasty that revelled in satisfying the senses, it’s not exclusively Japanese, but aims to create a contemporary izakaya-style atmosphere by serving a mix of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, robatayaki grill-fired cuts, See no evil, wok-cooked dishes, and loads of sushi. taste no evil tanghospitality.com What began as a mere ramen outpost, Three Wise Monkeys in Sea Point has expanded its menu to include sushi and bao (silky soft steamed buns), plus a bunch of experiments (yakitori sticky wings; bao dogs; and tuna or salmon sushiritos, which are burritos with sushi inside!). They can also do taiyaki (fish- shaped cakes stuffed with red-bean paste or Nutella) – don’t ask, just try! threewisemonkeys.co.za

kulula.com JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 13 your safety is our number 1 priority all you need to know for a safe and comfy travel experience!

Wear your mask covering nose & mouth for the entire duration of your travel journey & sanitise regularly

check-in online to limit contact at kulula travel app helps you stay the airport informed about the status of your ﬂight

arrive early and be at the airport at need special assistance submit a least 2 hours before your ﬂight’s request 48 hours, prior to your departure departure

drop off your bag at the bag drop our aircraft are sanitised after each ﬂight counter or head off to the Security and equipped with HEPA ﬁlters that gate if you don’t have any bags to recycle the cabin air every 3 minutes to check-in remove germs and viruses

khuluma, your favourite magazine, Catering has been temporarily suspended, is now available as a digi-mag and only water will be served on request. downloadable before your ﬂight Please avoid bringing food, drinks and snacks (including chewing gum) to prevent cross contamination.

For more information on Covid-19 click here.

iﬂykulula iﬂykulula kulula kulula.com kulula.com Love exclusive deals? Sign up to kulula.com/fanmail AFRICA’S WARM HEART EXPLORE EXPLORE Here. There. Everywhere.

CREATIVE FIRE Possibly the most dazzling hearth you’ll ever lay eyes on, this copper ‘lily’ fireplace crafted by Cape Town’s Bronze Age Studio is among the countless original functional artworks, installations and distinctive furniture pieces found inside and out at Xigera Safari Lodge in the Okavango Delta. Fire – for cooking, for warmth, and for staring at while you’re listening to wild tales – is a unifying theme that runs throughout the lodge where creativity has been allowed full expression, executed by some of the top artists, designers and crafters in Africa. Join our design safari on page 25.

Find sanctuary in the Sabie Valley 17 Surf’s up in J-Bay 37 Words: Keith Bain, Picture: Supplied Keith Words: PLUS Winter, come at me! 31

kulula.com JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 15 DISCOVER thE thRIll Of Skyway tRaIlS Skyway Trails offers two fun-packed, exciting outdoor adventures for all – the Aerial Cable Trail and the Tree-Top Challenge.

The Aerial Cable Trail is made up of eight ziplines that take visitors over one of the last remaining natural forested valleys along the Sabie River, adjacent to the Kruger National Park. Each section of the 1.2km trail varies in length from 230m to 70m, with visitors moving from one elevated platform to the next. Kids under 10 are assisted by our guides. The Tree-Top Challenge is an elevated obstacle course that is suitable for all those who are up for a challenge! Ideal fun for family and group outings, our two courses offer 35 exciting obstacles, including balancing beams, rope bridges, ‘spider webs’ and a 50m zipline.

Skyway Trails is located on the scenic Panorama Route at the popular For more information: Perry’s Bridge Lifestyle Centre in Hazyview, Mpumalanga. T: 013 737 6747 082 825 0209 E: [email protected] W: www.skywaytrails.com A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT EXPLORE

SNUGGLE UP IN SABIE REST ASSURED

1. Fly me to the moon No, we’re not suggesting you fly away to some distant outpost in Timbuktu. Nor is this tuk- tuk in fact anywhere near the Sahara Desert. The clue is the lush backdrop against which this, the entrance to beautiful Timamoon, is set – it’s right here, in the lush green tropical wonderland that is Mpumalanga’s Sabie River Valley; head beyond the entrance and you’re embraced by dreamy indigenous forest.

kulula.com JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 17 EXPLORE A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT

plus big lounge with fireplace, rim-flow pool, daybed and ceaseless forest soundtrack. And so it goes… OMG factors? It’s probably enough simply being here, but there are many extra touches, too. An outdoor cinema, for example, where they’ll lay out a private dinner for you – and by ‘you’ we mean just you. They also put together private picnics on Things about Timamoon the Sabie’s banks right next to that’ll make you smile? The Timamoon’s own little waterfall. name is an homage to Timimoun You’ll relish the solitude, the in the Algerian Sahara where Set forth chorusing birdsong, the shush red-mud Sudanese-style Positioned on the Mention this of flowing water, the unsullied buildings inspired Timamoon’s hills above the Sabie article when air. Everything, really. Even spa seven individual villas. Each River, the valley that booking your stay at treatments in your villa. is a unique trove of treasures Timamoon overlooks Timamoon and you’ll How deep are your pockets? collected on travels to exotic is packed with birds get a 20% discount From R5 400 per couple, dinner lands – Zanzibari poster beds, and animals. There’s for stays until and breakfast included. Indian temple windows, Tibetan a 7km hiking trail on 5 August 2021 timamoonlodge.co.za doorways, and many more the property to explore artefacts that contribute to between meals and Timamoon’s enchantment. In stints spent staring out romantic Secret Moon, it’s clay from your stoep. It’s tortoises, antique daybed, wild also a good time to join tigers, a crushed gold velvet a guided Kruger safari couch and Moroccan copper – game vehicles are basins, along with private pool, less crowded and prices and outdoor bath and shower. discounted. Lowveld Many Moons, meanwhile, sleeps Extreme Adventures five in two en-suite bedrooms – and GZ Adventures are new outfits, both on the road between Sabie and Hazyview, offering activities such as quad biking and river rafting – the latter is a fine way to experience the Sabie with its massive matumi trees, birdlife and the odd croc or hippo.

18 JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 kulula.com

Your one stop shop for activities in and around the canYon

Blyde dam boat trips • White water rafting and Tubing • Quad bike trails • Kloofing • Microlight flights • Hot Air balloon flights • Game drives • Panorama Tours • Transfers • Skyway trails

For More Information: Telephone: 015 795 5961 / 081 487 2267 Whatsapp: 065 671 9455 Website: www.blydecanyon.co.za

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2. Designer farm Beyond the in the very DNA of this lodge valley From Tanamera, comprising just seven chalets, Kruger National tucked away with either Park’s nearest gate, river or forest views, or (for Phabeni, is a half- honeymooners) in an even more hour’s drive. You secluded location. There are log could also head fires and electric blankets, bath north and explore tubs big enough for two, and the Panorama your own plunge pool. Meals Route. It’s among can be served to your cushy the finest drives in quarters, enjoyed under the the country, taking stars, or in the main part of the in such naturally lodge where there are yet more scenic spots as Mac Mac Falls, God’s 2. A familiar tune Window, Bourke’s Yes, as in that Cuban song Luck Potholes and ‘Guantanamera’… Tanamera the Three Rondavels – gorgeously situated deep in on a more or less the Lowveld forest overlooking circular loop that the Sabie River Valley – may will also afford well evoke similar feelings opportunity to of nostalgia and old-school survey the Blyde romance. And, to be quite River Canyon from honest, being here, staring out on high. And you can across the valley, a canopy of visit the gold-rush green unfurling below, makes town of Pilgrim’s your soul soar just like the song. Rest, too. Things you’ll love about Tanamera? Respite, tranquillity, nature all around… These essential elements

Words: Keith Bain, Pictures: Supplied Keith Words: for a restorative getaway are spots from which to take in the serene views and crisp clean air. What’ll you get up to here? Nothing if you prefer. If you don’t mind extracting yourself from the lodge’s laidback comforts, though, you can head off on long walks to the Sabie River, with rock pools to rest at. How deep are your pockets? From R5 200 per couple, breakfast and dinner included. tanamera.co.za

kulula.com JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 21 REDCARNATIONHOTELS.COM Carvin H Goldstone MEET Be kiff

Stay loyal to the end

Howzit, outie! It’s me, Carvin. Durban-born, kiff, eksê! I’ve had dogs most of my life. Everything from sausage dogs to pit bulls. I like dogs because they’re loyal, which can’t always be said of humans. With me is Ewok, one of countless pets who’ve at some point been abandoned by people who don’t realise what it takes to care for a dog. Many think they’re accessories or playthings. Look at what happened when Game of Thrones caused legions of fans to go out and buy huskies because – get this – they wanted to own a ‘dire wolf’. There was a huge spike in the number of abandoned, homeless huskies. Last year was a huge year for dog adoption. Around the world, people prepared for lockdown by taking in rescues and picking up puppies for companionship and cuddles to see them through the isolation. And while that’s great news in the short-term, things got a little depressing once households began returning to work and school. Suddenly there were animals who had grown accustomed to unbridled love and attention left to fend for themselves, no longer getting the kind of all-day love and attention they’d come to expect. On behalf of all the voiceless animals like little Ewok here, remember that these loyal companions give so much and demand very little in return. So, if

Picture: Sven Kristian Kristian Picture: Sven you can’t do right by them, rather leave them be.

kulula.com JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 23 DREAMS CAN COME TRUE: TRAVEL NOW FOR AN AFFORDABLE OKAVANGO EXPERIENCE

Botswana’s Okavango Delta is one of the world’s greatest and needs, whether you want to mix and match your wildlife destinations, but there’s usually a hefty premium to pay to accommodation or spend all your time at a single lodge. experience it. For SADC residents, that’s just changed. And, because we are independent, we have access to deals from many different hotel groups and operators, so you have A changing world brings rare opportunities. As part of the more choice. The entire experience has all the appropriate drive to restart the travel industry, Botswana’s top safari COVID-protocols in place and more: you can, for example, operators and lodge owners have made the most extraordinary get a PCR test done at your safari lodge before your return deals available to SADC travellers. Imagine paying just 20 to home. 25 per cent of the normal price of accommodation in Botswana! And we are talking about the best safari lodges in the most Botswana has truly never been more affordable than now beautiful areas of the Okavango Delta and Moremi Game Reserve. and these deals are valid for all of 2021.

You’ll enjoy daily game drives of course, but this is a highly diverse region of both land and water habitats. The Okavango experience includes motor-boat safaris and mokoro (canoe) adventures with local guides plus fishing and great birding. Stay in a private concession and you can add guided walks and spot-lit night drives to your activities – watch our See and Taste Botswana video to see more.

Putting it all together is what we do. Safari Online is all about Visit www.botswanasafari.co.za for more “safari by design”. We’ve travelled extensively through Botswana information or simply Enquire Now and together we’ll create your dream Botswana safari. and will create an itinerary based on your personal interests Desert & Delta Safaris and Ker Downey Botswana Image Credits: ART OF ADVENTURE EXPLORE Fancy-schmancy. Just the finest of everything. Safari Thrones on which to sit, kingly beds in which to laze, and, dotted all across the lodge, endless expressions of mature African by design that eschew blandness. Blandness isn’t what Africa is known for. And blandness doesn’t exist in the vocabulary here at design Xigera, a super-fancy eco-lodge in the Okavango Delta. Everything, In the Okavango Delta, from architecture to bespoke join a safari for all the fabrics, is statement-making. Like this hand-sculpted senses, including terracotta seat called the imagination uMbandavu. And, on the table it faces, a metalwork chess set – A Tale for a San Child – celebrating Botswana’s original hunter- gatherers. As you sit down to play, you might imagine you’ve set down in some otherworldly kingdom. You wouldn’t be too wrong…

kulula.com JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 25 EXPLORE ART OF ADVENTURE

uMbandavu was created by Andile Dyalvane (that’s him, pictured below on the right), widely recognised as one of the world’s finest ceramicists. uMbandavu is one of four seats at Xigera that are similarly linked to Dyalvane’s relationship with his Xhosa heritage, and that connect him, through his artistic practice, with his ancestors. And throughout the lodge you will find many more throne-like seats that are unlike anything at your local furniture store... The first is the nest-like structure pictured right, which you’ll spot as you walk across Xigera’s threshold. Designed by Cape Town’s Porky Hefer (pictured below, left), it’s woven from thick kooboo cane and called Behd (sounds like ‘bird’). It’s inspired by observing weaver bird’s build their nests, then scaled up for humans as a seat of sorts – although you can happily treat it as a bed, a sculpture, a jungle gym – there’s even an entrance from the top. If you think Behd is fun to romp in, wait until you go full horizontal on one of Hefer’s two reclining loungers near the bar. The bar itself is a visual representation of the Okavango flood plains. It’s copper countertop was made by Bronze Age, textured to suggest what happens when the earth dries out when the flood recedes; the hand-carved walnut base is by Meyer Von Wielligh and is a contrasting representation of the Delta’s rippling water during the wet season.

26 JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 kulula.com ART OF ADVENTURE EXPLORE

You have to look up, too. In the library, pictured here, the articulated chandelier is by Joburg based woodworker David Krynauw. Then, look down. The handwoven karakul wool rug was spun on a loom that had to be built especially for Somerset West weaving operation Coral and Hive; the pattern is inspired by West African Kuba cloth. Chuma Maweni’s Imbizo Desk is the library’s centrepiece – hand-carved ebonised timber sits on a ceramic base. The geometric candelabras are by Cape Town’s Otto du Plessis, inspired by patterns found in traditional African shields and masks. Cast your eye deeper into the room, to the mapped representation of the Okavango Delta, rendered in embossed leather by Durban- based French-born designer Xavier Clarisse. The map covers the brass doors of a handmade cabinet, and if you look into the display nooks on either side of the map you will find many more distinctive objects, like Madoda Fani’s smoke-fired Abantu vessels and bowls by master woodworker Rodney Band. We could continue exploring for days, taking in endless evidence that African talent and craftmanship stand shoulder-to-shoulder with the best in the world. What is truly remarkable, also, is the manner in which Xigera’s curators have captured the spirit of Africa’s creative imagination. By embracing the finest heartfelt expressions of the continent’s designers, this place celebrates African culture like no other safari lodge on earth. That is its great glory.

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Astonishing suites There’s so much to amaze the eye and captivate the imagination at Xigera, and we have not even begun to talk about the architecture, about the fact that the entire lodge sits on a kind of metal superstructure so that it is entirely removable without a trace – no concrete, nothing permanent. That’s just one way in which Xigera prioritises environmental sustainability. Add to that that it is fully solar-powered and that even kitchen scraps are turned into compost for growing veggies and you start to realise just how deeply the entire project has been thought through. Then, there’s the design of the conceals a veritable trove of edible And the game-viewing? dozen villa-sized suites. Each features a and quaffable treats – espresso Everyone knows nature is the palatial lounge, bed fit for an emperor, maker, full minibar, and glass jars ultimate designer. And the dressing room, and an outdoor shower with nibbles and baked goods. All Okavango Delta is some of her in addition to a gorgeous bathroom. this in addition to such considerations finest work, a seasonally sodden And each is a masterpiece of exquisite as sensual robes, beautiful textures land before time, teeming with detailing – one-of-a-kind furnishings, underfoot (even the shower floor life. Xigera Island is as pristine bespoke fabrics and clever essentials is exquisitely patterned), and a and primordial as they come. have been assembled to enhance your watercolour paint set should the muse Animals saunter this way and comfort as you take in the immense take you. You even have a private that, lions around every other natural scene that spreads from beyond gazebo in which to laze, doze, read corner, leopards waiting behind the entire length of your vast private or stare spellbound at the ceaseless the next termite mound. Whether terrace. A designer-crafted cupboard animal parade. xigera.com you’re being driven, poled in a mokoro or are exploring by boat, you feel the Delta seep under your skin. The animals are everywhere; you’ll see them from your room, during lunch, from the spa and while you’re sunning yourself on the pool deck. And to interpret it all, Xigera has a superlative team of rangers who are not only experts, but thrilled to share their unbridled passion with you. You will not be unmoved by the way in which such a beautifully curated lodge integrates so magnificently with the mother of

all safaris. Southern Guild Xigera, Adel Ferreira, Hoyle, Bain, Pictures: Mickey Keith Words:

28 JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 kulula.com Rates from R26182 per person for a fully inclusive seven night safari. All safaris are fly-in, with luxury lodge accommodation.

LET BOTSWANA'S MAGIC HEAL YOUR SOUL

MORE Safaris Luxury Big Five Safaris in the Sabi Sand Reserve, Kruger National Park and the Marakele National Park.

Thabametsi Treehouse, Marataba Luxury Lodges

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Ivory Lodge, Tinyeleti Treehouse, Mountain Lodge, Lion Sands Game Reserve Lion Sands Game Reserve Marataba Luxury Lodges

Get in touch with us (or your preferred travel agent) to find out about our incredible promotions. MORE Family Concierge | [email protected] | +27 (0)10 109 4900 | more.co.za HOT TIMES IN COLD CLIMES EXPLORE

But, baby, it’s Powder to the people Touted as South Africa’s cold outside… Switzerland thanks to occasional dustings of powder, when it snows in Nicci Collier and and around Ceres half of Keith Bain hunt down Cape Town turns up to have a few soul-warming a look. ‘Causes absolute chaos,’ says one local of the mid-winter spoils sudden congestion. The real powder, though, is more likely be found on the surrounding Skurweberg Mountains. At Matroosberg Private Nature Reserve, 35km from town, you can head up Matroosberg Peak, the Western Cape’s second-highest point, accessible via the province’s highest 4x4 trail. The peak gets the first and last snow of the season, sometimes as late as November. Trips to the top to play in the snow aren’t to be taken lightly – along with dizzying views, there are stupendous (and deadly) sheer drops. The SA Ski Club has petrol-powered ski-lifts and a pair of portable lifts to reach the tops of the slopes – snowboarding is also doable. Back in the town itself, it’s worth tackling the Ceres Zip Line. In winter, as you slide high above the valley, you might just witness a thick white blanket covering the rugged mountains directly in front of you, with full-flowing waterfalls and rivers, too. matroosberg.com

kulula.com JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 31 EXPLORE THE ARTY-FARTY TRAVEL GUIDE THIS EXPLORE HOT TIMES IN COLD CLIMES IMAGE HAS BEEN Relive a Have a Steep in hot CROPPED Steep in Highlands fling AT THE HIghlands ﬂing tub heaven hot-tub heaven Childhood memories TOP TO FIT Childhood memor ies of Ever si nce the clever folks Ever since the clever of weekends in weekends in Dullstroom at Kolkol in the O ver ber g folks at Kolkol in the Dullstroom in in Mpumalan ga include u lt the r wooden b i i ames es de a Overberg built their Mpumalanga include board g b i mounta in cabins and wooden mountain cabins board games beside a crackl ing fire, hearty pod- like dwell ings and pod-like dwellings crackling fire, hearty meals at the D ullstroom nstalled w th the r very installed with their very meals at Dullstroom i i i Inn , ancakes at p own wood - fired hot tub s, arr e s ancakes, cy own wood-fired hot tubs, Inn, pancakes at H i ’ P i the conce p t of offeri ng the concept of offering Harrie’s Pancakes, icy fingers and noses as electricity-free Jacuzzi- electr icity-free Jacu zzi- you raced down a h ll on fingers and noses as i style soc ial soak ing baths style social soaking baths you raced down a hill your bicycle whi le the has s pread like w ild, er, has spread like wild, on your bicycle while grown - ups tried f re. he tu s have er, fire. The tubs have Get stuck or be the grown-ups tried i T b fly f ishing in mi sty popped up everywhere starstruck fly fishing in misty popp ed u p everywhere mountaintop lakes. One Sutherland – South from Bonn ievale to Get stuck or of s h hest towns, from Bonnievale to mountaintop lakes. One SA’ ig aardskeders os, ut one Baardskeedersbos. Africa’s star-gazing of SA’s highest towns, B b b be starstruck the town s its 2 100m They’re a huge hit with capital – delivers an Dullstroom sits of the most ma g n if icent above sea level, so Sutherland – South abundance of snow. It’s locat ons has to e at the snow re ularly falls n glampers at various 2 100m above sea i b fr ca s star a n g i A i ’ -g zi g experts, the Locals who Africamps locations quite feasible, in fact, of the heaviest snowfalls level, so snow regularly mounta in -top Ap e x ca tal del vers an winter, b ut no matter pi – i remember it coldest for people to get stuck lam n ods at ount the weather, you re n across the country, but occurred on 6 December falls in winter, but no G pi g p M abundance of recorded recorded n ight - say that ’ i one of the most faraway in town for days – in 1970 producing powder matter the weather, Camdeb oo Pr ivate Game here in every snow. It’s farmers were time for a t reat. Pa rticularly if locations is the Karoo’s recent years, people that lay 1m deep in town. you’re in for a treat. R eserve, near G raaff - u te feas le, n month temperature was – st ill bedding down at the q i ib i have been rescued of the year and, fact, for pulling li ve shee p alkersons otel and Mount Camdeboo Private Locals who remember Particularly if bedding R e inet in the K aroo. W H 16.4°C , wh i le one Game Reserve near from dirt roads with it say that farmers down at Walkersons G uests at the lod g e can peo ple to g et stuck oddly Spa, where The Flying snowy, from under the a Casspir. According enou g h, one of the i n cotsman restaurant Graaff-Reinet where they were still pulling live Hotel & Spa, where include an add - on snow 11 windy morn ing , S town for days n recen have a few mountain-top to local experts, the sheep from under the The Flying Scotsman exper i ence and o p t to – the ch illdays later. Of tends a roar ing log fire coldest recorded heav iest snowfalls years, course, factor took it to – and each su te s k tted Apex Glamping pods. snow 11 days later. Of restaurant tends a sp end the n ig ht in the .once you ve du i i i p eo ple have b een 33°C ’ g Guests can opt to stay in night-time temperature course, once you’ve roaring log fire and brand - new eco - fr iendly yourself now has n fact out with a firep lace, and occurred on 6 Decem b er S i the eco-friendly Eagle’s was –16.4°C, while one dug yourself out of the each suite is kitted out a le s l ht wooden eenout of the snow, you electr ic b lankets. And E g ’ F ig rescued from d rt roads b snowy, windy morning, i can v s t , where you can st ll cast for Flight wooden pod, snow, you can visit SALT with a fireplace and pod, wi th an outdoor hot roduc n owder i i SALT i 1970 p i g p the lar est s n le with an outdoor hot tub the chill factor took it to (pictured above), where electric blankets. And tu oast n swoon g i g - 0ish at Mi llstream F arm b b i g - with a Casspir. o t cal telesco e n the boasting swoon-worthy –33°C. Snow has in fact the largest single- p i p i ctured elow , wh ch, you can still cast for worthy v iews of the Adccor in g that lay 1m southern hem s here s (pi b ) i i p i under snow, st ll evokes views of the Camdeboo, been recorded here in optical telescope in the fish at Millstream Farm amde oo, lus f re t dee n town. to local located. i C b p i pi p i plus fire pit and private every month of the year southern hemisphere (pictured below), which the lovel iest of the and pr ivate boma – and and, oddly enough, one cott sh hlan ds boma – and perhaps a is located. evokes the faraway erha s a l on stroll n S i Hig p p i i g lion strolling past Scottish Highlands. walkersons.co. za, past your ca bin. your cabin. millstream.co.za walkersons.co.za, newmarkhotels.com newmarkhotels.com millstreamfarm.co.za

36 JUNE 2021 kulula.com 32 JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 kulula.com

HOT TIMES IN COLD CLIMES EXPLORE

Snow patrol Steam clean If you’re lusting for a Not cheap, but far more ‘real’ winter and have affordable than flying to missed out on the Istanbul, Babylonstoren, wondrous white-out near Paarl, offers days everywhere the passport-free else, head to equivalent of Turkey’s Tiffendell in ultimate spa-like deep- the Southern cleanse experience: Drakensberg. a full-scale hammam Nellie’s (not) Between ritual. Difference is, in just desserts June and Istanbul, you’ll likely get At weekends, Cape August every a substandard tourist Town’s iconic Mount year, families treatment in some Exfoliating is first. Just Nelson has a ‘Winter head to the overpriced bathhouse. when your think your Warmer’ menu country’s only ski Here in the Winelands, skin is too sensitive for brimming with heart- resort for endless though, it’s the real deal, the rough scrubbing, and tummy-warming fun on the slopes. a traditional treatment it’s countered with treats to savour either Snowboarding, skiing, perfected over centuries soothing warm water in the hotel’s lounge, its tobogganing, après-ski and guaranteed to poured in waves, first conservatory, or next glühwein… they have restore practically every gently, then vigorously. to the fire in Planet Bar it all. tiffindell.co.za cell on your body. Then body butter, (pictured above). On the When your eyes do massaged into your menu are Chef Rudi’s Warm your adapt to the thick wave skin, before a thorough legendary three-cheese of steam in the sıcaklık external cleanse. Hair fondue, a chicken curry soul in the and scalp, too. All the served with samosas, Winelands (‘hot room’), it’s floor- to-ceiling marble and while, buckets of soft flaky rotis and basmati In Stellenbosch, curved roof, tiled with water wash over you, rice, and beer-cooked Lanzerac is a winter visit tiny turquoise squares. sloshing onto the floor, Saldanha mussels geared to banish the Your natir gives you a relaxing mist filling with hints of spice and cold – whether touring soap and a the rain-forest room. spekboom, served with and tasting your way metal bowl Limbs are stretched, toasted sourdough and through wine cellars with which pressed, rinsed; dry shoestring fries. Finish as you learn Pinotage’s to perform a skin smoothed and with warm caramelised history, or feasting at the preliminary rejuvenated. apple pudding and rum- Taphuis, a cosy English cleanse and The package includes and-raisin ice cream pub-style restaurant with rinse before lunch and fresh or lemon pudding with fire blazing. There are you lie on juice, plus hot tea. lemon curd and ricotta fireplaces in the suites, a marble As you soak up the ice cream. There’s also a too, plus hot tubs on slab. post-treatment bliss, ‘Cognac and Chocolate’ verandahs and you’ll feel a kind of indulgence on offer, and underfloor heating. inner and outer glow for most of 2021, South Their winter special like nothing you’ve Africans get discounted gets you three nights ever experienced. room rates – R3 100

Pictures: Leo Moko for Unsplash, Supplied Pictures: Leo Moko for the price of two. babylonstoren.com per couple, including lanzerac.co.za breakfast. To book any of these, call 021 483 1000. belmond.com

kulula.com JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 35 Generation of Sourdough

The Supertubes Guest House Collection is located on the world-famous surfing beach of Jeffreys Bay. This collection of guesthouses offers different accommodation options catering to all guests’ needs. The fully equipped self-catering villas are suitable for families and small groups. There are two different categories of guest rooms – classic and luxury. Luxury rooms with stunning sea views are just a stone’s throw away from the beach. All rooms are well equipped with added extras.

Supertubes Guest House offers a full breakfast in the dining room, adjacent to the garden. Dinner is available on request.

Bookings: 042 293 2957/079 593 0241 Email: [email protected] More info: www.supertubesguesthouse.co.za Reception: 12 Pepper Street, Jeffreys Bay, 6330 SUPER-STOKED IN THE EASTERN CAPE EXPLORE

n 2015, an unbelievable moment played out on live TV: Australia’s Mick J-Bay’s Fanning – at the time, Iworld number two surfer on WSL’s rankings – fought off a great white shark that had beloved Supertubes all the endless bitten through his surfboard way to the number one spot leash. Tweets of the J-Bay on the podium. A year later, Open, where the action he had to be plucked from the unfolded, neared 450 per waves once more after a three- summer minute. Fortunately, the shark metre great white was spotted seemed curious not hungry – videobombing the line-up. Jeffrey’s Bay gets under your Fanning punched and swam Fanning’s tale proves how skin, writes Nicci Collier – and to safety. He braved the same J-Bay gets under your skin. ‘I it’s not only for those whose waters in 2016, riding his love the place. Nothing could ever change that,’ he said. ‘That second skin is neoprene wave is like no other, the people are pure gold and it's maybe my favourite stop on the schedule.’

kulula.com JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 37 EXPLORE SUPER-STOKED IN THE EASTERN CAPE

your Endless Summer Blond Ale), coffee shops, churches, guesthouses, restaurants and surf outlets. And, less than half an hour out of town, J-Bay interrupted new lodges and eco-estates, where The J-Bay Open has been endless tracts of gorgeous green canned due to third wave stretch as far as the eye can see. fears. But for cycling fans, Of course, there are the old faithfuls the Trans Baviaans MTB too: the famous factory shops of the race makes its way to J-Bay Surf Village where mega-outlets sell in August. Dubbed the Making up a section of J-Bay’s rails and rails of bikinis, boardies, ‘toughest single stage race famous right-hand point break, hoodies and everything in between in the world’, the 230km ‘Supers’ is rated among the world’s from all the major surf brands, and team cycle marathon starts best waves, with 300m of surfing Andy Thuysman’s InStep – home of in Willowmore, ending perfection for advanced boardriders. the original hug for feet: JBayBoot in J-Bay 24 hours later. Then there’s Kitchen Windows, sheepskin surf boots handmade in transbaviaans.co.za Magnatubes, Boneyards, Tubes, Jeffrey’s Bay, plus sheepskin slippers Impossibles, Albatross, Point… and and wildebeest leather vellies. In a Blue Flag beach for non-surfers 1974, Andy started making shoes for there to sample the warm Indian the surfers on the beaches of J-Bay, Ocean too. The best time for surfing individually tracing the leather to the still say his shoes feel like they J-Bay is during the winter months of shape of their feet before cutting and were made for them. May to August when the winds are sewing it by hand. Today, customers And, when you’re done offshore and swells come through stocking up on clothing, there’s more consistently. Despite Fanning’s the comforting embrace of loved- experience, sharks are not an by-locals Quitschy’s Pizza, a everyday occurrence; you’re more 100% real-deal Italian restaurant likely to encounter a pod of dolphins in Ferreira Town. And just or, in winter, whales swimming by. nearby, in the Wavecrest Centre, The town’s warm welcome extends Nina’s Real Food is an institution beyond the waves as well. In the past known for the scrumptiousness decade, the relaxed fishing town and of its grub – whether you want surf mecca has developed into one something wholesome or of the fastest growing urban areas in sinful, or just want to ogle the the country. Along with new residents surfboards that decorate the have come trendy new delis, beer slightly bohemian space, you’re brewers (award-winning Brewhaha in for a treat. Not to mention the does a mean burger too, with epic chance you’ll be surrounded by fries or pap and sous to have with surfers waxing lyrical about that humungous wave. Aweh, dude!

38 JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 kulula.com Play with us

Jeffreys Bay is a world-renowned tourist destination and is especially famous for its beautiful beaches along an approximately 15km coastline. Huge waves and one of the longest right-hand waves in the world makes it an attractive tourist destination. Jeffreys Bay caters for everyone’s budget, from backpacking to 5-star establishments. Jeffreys Bay is well known for a family destination, where memories are made generation after generations. The two main hiking trails, Noorsekloof and Kabeljouws Nature Reserves, are ideal for visitors wishing to enjoy a bit of fresh-air-exercising whilst appreciating one of the few areas where renosterveld trees and shrubs are still intact, as well as other indigenous fauna and flora. Safe travels to Jeffreys Bay, and we would like you to share your memories with us! www.jeffreysbaytourism.org

Phone : 042 293 2923 Address : 17 Da Gama Road, Shell Complex, Jeffreys Bay, 6300 Make a booking today via EXPERIENCE THE FUN RIDE WhatsApp or www.rikshatours.com

• Your journey right from the pick-up point to drop point, we assure you a customer friendly journey with us. • Your journey is expected to be safe and on time. • As we know it, we take care of the qualitative services to our customers. • You journey can be from somewhere to anywhere. • Availability of our services are facilitated thereby. • Your journey needs to be an affordable cost. • We understand the value of money and made it easy to pay.

We do pickups and drops off’s and town tours

Tel: 063 491 6157 [email protected] www.rikshatours.com SUPER-STOKEDFREE STAT IN THE EASTERN CAPE EXPLORE

Catch your breath Some 26km from J-Bay, Dude, what to do? Where to go? Intle is a romantic nine-room boutique First, learn to surf Stay in super style Feast like royalty hotel in the bush. Whether you’re a total It doesn’t get closer Jayne Davies cut her Lavish rooms; views beginner or a bona to Supers than at the culinary teeth learning of the Baviaanskloof fide barrel-blaster, the Supertubes Guesthouse, from the likes of Jamie mountains and Indian coaches at the Jeffrey’s with digs ranging from Oliver and catered for Ocean; and enfolded by Bay Surf School will comfy en-suite standard Prince William’s 21st. 800 hectares of hills, guide you to your perfect rooms to the luxurious There is Infood Society, valleys and thicket. ride. Learner lessons Khaya Zinza villa, in the Surf Village, As you hike or cycle are at J-Bay’s Blue Flag directly facing J-Bay’s which could be in Bali the reserve’s trails, Dolphin Beach – where most famous swell a (palm trees and timber; there’ll be giraffes in you’re protected from any mere 30m away. Keep smoothie bowls; falafel; the distance, zebras major currents and won’t an eye on the action in vegan chocolate cake); trotting off. Watch the get shredded to pieces on the ‘wave-watch’ room, Infood Coffee Roastery evening’s last golden a rocky outcrop if you fall cook freshly caught (beach views; great rays being cast out to – while more advanced fish in an open-plan coffee; a killer savoury sea as animals drink surfers will up their kitchen, or fire up the waffle with eggs at the waterhole. Plus: game at various breaks coals in the indoor braai Benedict); The Bakery bush picnics, gorgeous according to their level area, which leads out and Deli (craft gins; stargazing, and J-Bay’s of wave-cruising skills. to a deck and garden. fresh produce; baked twinkling lights visible, jbaysurfschool.co.za Moses cooks satisfying yums; a new lifestyle too! intle.co.za breakfasts for guests section; local tribes Plan to see the sights and there’s even an hanging out); and J Bay Want to visit J-Bay’s outdoor hot shower, Bru Co., a must-visit Shell Museum? And then surfboard racks and a bar and restaurant with head to the Kabeljous wetsuit dryer. classic surf feels and

Pictures: Janilson Furtado, Billy Fletcher and Sincerely Media for Unsplash Fletcher and Sincerely Billy Pictures: Janilson Furtado, Nature Reserve for a 042 293 2957 great food. infood.co.za hike, followed by fresh, line-caught fish at Kitchen Windows? With Riksha Tours’ Open Cart option you can book a colourful tuk-tuk for a full day of exploring. Or, opt for a town tour of the best spots to surf, eat and visit. rickshatours.com

kulula.com JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 41

SKIN TIGHT DISCOVER DISCOVER People. Ideas. Things.

LEAP INTO WINTER Winter needn’t interrupt your training routine. The last thing you want when you’re training hard and building up a sweat in the middle of winter, though, is feeling your sweat turn cold while it clings to your skin. Take it from this guy, decked out in Under Armour’s new stretch woven shorts and TriBase Reign 3 shoes. Keeping his legs warm and dry? A pair of Iso-Chill perforated leggings – find out how these super-cool tights operate on page 47. Words: Keith Bain, Picture: supplied Keith Words:

The late, great Mr Bourdain 44 Reads to warm your soul 54

kulula.com JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 43 DISCOVER ANTHONY BOURDAIN’S MOZAMBIQUE

Just released, World Travel – An Irreverent Guide is Anthony Bourdain’s posthumous catalogue of his travels and global culinary experiences gleaned over years and then lovingly stitched together by co-writer, Laurie Woolever. This extract Tony tastes distils his take on Mozambique, and why he declared its the burn food Africa’s best

44 JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 kulula.com ANTHONY BOURDAIN’S MOZAMBIQUE DISCOVER

n 1975, the newly independent Mozambique looked forward to a brighter future. But this was not to be. Yet rather than giving up after * Published by Ienduring a 16-year civil war – one of Africa’s most Bloomsbury and brutal and senseless – the country picked itself out now, Anthony up and began the enormous, daunting task of Bourdain and rebuilding, well, everything, from the ground up. Laurie Woolever’s There are very few places left in this world like World Travel – An Mozambique. The climate is nice. The people are Irreverent Guide really nice and the food is extraordinary. is a food-fuelled Yet today, Mozambique is barely a pit stop on journey around the the tourist trail. It was with all this in mind that world and into the I arrived on my first visit to this East African heart and mind country of 23 million people. of a legendary Mozambique, it should be pointed out, is a raconteur. darling of the World Bank. It’s seen as an African success story, and the fact is, things are good, very good, here, compared with how things have Shockingly, people here, and throughout the been in the past. Five hundred years of truly country, after being relentlessly screwed by appalling colonialism, 18 years of enthusiastic history, are just as relentlessly nice. but inept Communism, and a brutal and And the food is the best I’ve had in Africa. Brazilian spices, Indian curries, the best of Africa and Asia, Arab traders, a dizzying Afro- People here, after being relentlessly Portuguese, Latin American, pan-Arab, Asian mix. screwed by history, are relentlessly nice. Along much of the coast of Mozambique, through good times and bad, what they always had was an senseless 16-year civil war ending less than abundance of incredible seafood. 20 years ago left Mozambique with a devastated And, in addition to the abundant use of coconut social fabric, a shattered economy, and only the milk, it’s the beloved local hot pepper, piri-piri, that memory of an infrastructure. makes the food uniquely Mozambican. Set out on the turquoise water of the Indian Piri-piri chicken is arguably the national dish. Ocean, [Ilha de Mozambique] was the first You find it all over – restaurants, street corners, European settlement in East Africa. Vasco da beach shacks. Sand, salt air, the sound of waves Gama landed here in 1498 while sailing the in the distance, the smells of grilling poultry, and trade winds in search of the spice route to India. spice of charcoal. But before him, there’d been Greeks, Persians, They continuously baste that grilling chicken Chinese, Arabs, and Indians come down from the with the piri-piri. Tangy, slightly tart, elements gulf or across the Indian Ocean… of citrus – they dole this stuff out like it’s pure Spend enough time on the island, and the rest cocaine. I mean, there’s never more than a tiny of Africa can feel like a different continent. It’s a little bit in there. ruin really, a shell of its former glory, a crumbling What is this precious substance? Peanut oil, monument to a colony built on the backs of the lemon juice, minced garlic, tomato – but it’s occupied and enslaved. Once storybook mansions, the piri-piri pepper that gives this stuff its

Illustration by Wesley Allsbrook, Extract courtesy Allsbrook, Extract of Bloomsbury Wesley by Illustration promenades, decaying, beautiful, but sad. trademark burn.

kulula.com JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 45

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kulula.comkulula.com JULY-SEPTEMBERJULY 2021 2021 4947 DISCOVER IDEAS GREAT & SMALL

Things will get heated

Clé Latouf, owner of that yoga helps Cape Town’s YogaLife unify mind, body studio in De Waterkant, and breath in ways has partnered with that are universally yoga instructor and accessible, no matter Noordhoek resident your body type, Bern Le Roux to flexibility or fitness open the first hot level. And it’s not just yoga studio in the about headstands southern peninsula and pretzel poses, but – at Noordhoek Farm incorporates meditation Village. Founded and mindfulness, too. in 2010, YogaLife Many YogaLife classes promotes yoga as not are heated, but there only as an essential are also unheated practice for health and Vinyasa sessions, and wellbeing, but also as regular free beginner’s a means of fostering classes, in case you’re community and social wondering how much engagement. YogaLIfe’s you need this in your instructors believe life. yogalife.co.za

48 JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 kulula.com IDEAS GREAT & SMALL DISCOVER Home truths With winter and a third wave turning attention homeward, these are a few of the designers whose creations adorn the spaces at Xigera Safari Lodge (from our story on page 25) – and whose world-class creations you can buy for your own home

Tablewise Also at Xigera are You’ll be blessed 12 bespoke walnut to have one of these and bronze tables vessels by Imiso’s Andile by Cape Town-based Dyalvane in your home; Kenyan-born designer, he’s recognised among Stanislaw Trzebinski. the top ceramicists in the The dining tables stand world, known for imbuing on stalactite-like spears representations of traditional ceremonies and ritual that are inspired by in his designs – body scarification, for example, is underwater plants found suggested by cuts, slashes and pinches that capture in the Delta’s water and convey deep meaning. imisoceramics.co.za channels. As a sculptor, Trzebinski is inspired by organic forms – coral, fungi, crystals, and Get the table setting other biological growth you’ve always coveted patterns. The influence with crockery by comes from intense renowned Cape Town With only ethically exposure to the outdoors ceramicist Mervyn Gers. sourced raw materials as a child, including At his studio in Paarden and only the finest summers spent diving Eiland, this artisanal weavers engaged off the coast, exploring tableware innovator to create inimitable mangroves and manufactures his own rugs, Coral and Hive in coral reefs. clay and creates unique Somerset West is an stanislawtrzebinski.com glazes. Nothing is all-women, craft-forward mechanised, either, so operation with strong each item is individually regard for sustainable handmade and finished. practice and fostering They’re hardy too, traditional skills. Their known for their strength natural collection and durability – which uses pure, hand-spun is why they work so karakul wool, cotton perfectly in the remote and mohair, handwoven Okavango Delta where on traditional looms to replacements are tricky produce soft, sensual, to come by. visually beautiful rugs. mervyngers.com coralandhive.com

kulula.com JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 49 DISCOVER IDEAS GREAT & SMALL

Go Bok!

Biomimicry meets technology to give movement to this next-generation space robot. Designed by a team of Swiss and German scientists, the Robo Bok eschews the limitations of old wheel- based Mars robots. This one imitates a familiar African antelope – our very own pronking, preening, try- scoring springbok.

Eat to heal Many health-focused recipe books have this all-out denial strategy Aiming for that naturally built in: No this, no healthful glow, the one that that, no flavour, count comes from within rather the calories. You know than from outside? TV the drill. Pinnock’s nutritionist Dale Pinnock’s 80 recipes avoid that recipe book, The Medicinal ‘self-flagellation’ Chef: Eat Your Way to Better strategy and offer Health, is built around a plenty of taste-centric knowledge of how certain motivators for eating foods can help restore us sensibly and getting a to a more pristine state. So diversity of wholesome, this is a recipe book that nutritionally dense teaches you the science ingredients into of nutritional wellbeing, your body. And each whether you’d like to recipe comes with boost the immune system, a quick summary of address a skin condition or what ailments it can try cure your fatigue – or help counter. Very a hangover! compelling.

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K IDEAS GREAT & SMALL DISCOVER Waterfront winter warmers

Fight fatigue and stave off cold-weather inertia at the One&Only in Cape Town this month. The resort-style hotel is hosting activities to stimulate mind, body, and – why not? – even the soul. The two-week winter programme includes activities for families, couples and children, and range from pizza-making to yoga, and there are a Christmas in July lunch city’s best mind, body has partnered with even Wimbledon afternoon (18 July). and soul rejuvenation its neighbour, the Two teas (10 and 11 July) and

Pictures: Adel Ferreira/Xigera Safari Lodge/Southern Guild, Supplied Pictures: Adel Ferreira/Xigera Plenty to occupy little packages at its pampering Oceans Aquarium, ones, especially in the spa. A limited Winter to launch a turtle One&Only’s KidsOnly Wellness offer is also conservation experience. clubhouse, where available – guests can And on 15 July, The there’ll be themed crafts, create their own package Amazing Coelacanth activities and traditional of treatments, which author, Professor Mike games including a Tokyo includes access to the Bruton, will talk as part Games inspired mini ‘thermal suites’. of the hotel’s Speaker indoor Olympics. Junior With the first-ever Series – it includes a will be able to set a few Marine Protected Areas delicious four-course PlayStation records and Day coming up on dinner at Ochre. show how it’s done in a 1 August, One&Only oneandonlyresorts.com specialised rendition of ‘The Floor is Lava’. Plus, what’s cuter than children set free in the kitchen? Well, when you don't have to clean up after them, that’s what. While one-on-one yoga sessions are available, One&Only of course offers some of the

kulula.com JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 53 DISCOVER WARMING READS Ubuntu girl How did she go from being an impoverished, malnourished girl on death’s doorstep to leadership roles at the World Bank, World Health Organization and the UN, where she was a senior advisor on women’s issues? I Am a Girl From Africa (Jonathan Ball Publishers) is the astonishing memoir of Zimbabwe-born Elizabeth Nyamayaro, whose grounding in the concept of ubuntu motivates her life Stolen words of ceaselessly working for Pip Williams’s The the betterment of others. Dictionary of Lost Words Elizabeth’s pursuit of her (Penguin Random House) ambition to help others is a work of fiction poking takes her from her small Diet of stories into a forgotten corner rural village to Harare, Admit it, sometimes of niche history. It’s the London, New York and reading’s great pleasure late-1800s and a team of beyond. Eventually she is getting the opportunity Oxford lexicographers are launched one of the world’s to escape into the working in a garden shed largest gender equality imagination of weirdly (aka the ‘Scriptorium’) to solidarity movements. wise, wonderfully eccentric compile a long-awaited first Having witnessed and highly unlikely edition of a new dictionary. insurmountable poverty characters. Zimbabwean When the card on which and famine and widespread Robert Muponde’s The the word ‘bondmaid’ death first-hand, hers is an Scandalous Times of appears falls under the inspiring tale born out of a Book Louse (Penguin table, the daughter of one a deep insight into what it Random House) is a novel of the book’s compilers means to live and grow up affording just such a pockets it and eventually poor in Africa. diversion. It’s a coming- compiles her own dictionary of-age tale highlighting which includes a few a boy’s love of stories – exquisite four-letter swears sometimes they feed the and archaic terms like soul, other times they’re ‘dollymop’. A ‘bondmaid,’ we there to fill the long gaps discover, described a maid between actual meals. bound by contract to work While tethered to physical her entire life, so ultimately reality, they’re nonetheless this is a story about how charged with mystical words can configure our events and mythical relationship with the world creatures – mermaids, and with one another. And bizarre shamans and men there’s a serious feminist who turn into hippos. spin, of course.

54 JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 kulula.com a few good books DA MON WARMING READS DISCOVER GALGUT Mood swingers There’s a book for every frame of mind White lies If you wanted to be flippant, you might label Hedonistic? it Four Weddings and In Vincent Pienaar’s Limerence (Penguin a Funeral-ish, except, Random House), Scout is an eccentric, enigmatic, this is four funerals, and The Promise Panama hat-wearing Joburg womaniser who author Damon Galgut has has sweet-talked his way through life. When five a far darker lens, with women are simultaneously summoned to his zero hope of anything Cape Town-based lawyer’s offices – presumably for the reading of resembling a happy Damon Galgut has his will – his relationship with each becomes a ending. In The Promise, been shortlisted for thread in his eye-raising life story. a vow has been made to the Booker Prize twice (for The Good a dying wife. Her husband Doctor, in 2003, and will hand over ownership In a Strange Room, Fiery? of a cottage on his farm in 2010). Incredibly, Booze, music, love affairs, public airing of to Salome who works in he wrote his first secrets and, finally, a spark and a flame. Taylor his home and has helped novel when he was Jenkins Reid’s Malibu Rising (Penguin Random raise his children. But 17 – not something House) is about the build-up and crescendo once his wife is buried, he likes to discuss of Nina Riva’s annual end-of-summer party, a almost 40 years social calendar ‘event’ that gets everyone into there’s no-one to see that later, but that first a tizzy. Of course, the wayward party builds to he keeps his promise. novel, A Sinless No-one aside from their Season (1984), was fever pitch and ultimately someone’s gonna daughter, Amor, who is at about three juvenile burn the house down, baby! the time too young to be delinquents sent taken seriously. Through to a reformatory a series of funerals where the illusion Flighty? of civilisation (her father’s, her self- Maggie Shipstead’s Great Circle (Penguin begins to erode Random House) is the story of Marian Graves absorbed brother’s, and when one of the whose lust for adventure sees her embarking her self-pitying sister’s) boys is found dead we witness white South under suspicious – in 1950 – on a solo flight around the globe, Africans looking the circumstances. from pole to pole. A crash landing in Antarctica other way, absorbed Diagnosed with quells her mission. Fifty years later, when an in their own sense of cancer when he actress prepares to play her in a movie, the was six, Galgut vanished pilot’s biggest mysteries come to light. entitlement, their own was for a long time petty grievances, bed-bound – he while Amor says being read to Unravelling? pushes to see by relatives during Joanne Fedler’s Unbecoming (Peguin Random that her family’s that time played a House) is as funny as it is heartbreaking. A promise is finally significant role in literal journey into the heart and soul of a honoured... his development as a writer. Don’t midlife crisis as a woman in her 50s joins a be surprised if group of other women on a silent walk into the The Promise earns Australian bush. Apart from wondering where him another Booker she’s going to pee, she’s not sure she has nod. And perhaps anything in common with the others, but then a a win. stranger shows up…

kulula.com JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 55 56 T make contactwithsomeindefinable, that inhabitthisworld seemtosomehow charactersrecognisable world, theordinary stories, andwhileeachissetina short places. uncomfortable taking usintostrangely surreal,oddly the foiblesofhumanexperience while X-ray ofhumanconsciousness andexamines of voice, onethatsomehow works like an rendered tales.Hisisclearly anew kind each ofhiscarefully crafted, beautifully overtakes you asyou make your way through to achieve thisunsettling sensationthat stay withyou A bookofshortstoriesthat tales Bitter sweet DISCOVER WARMING READS Mad Honey ishissecondcollectionof JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 what on earth he’swhat onearth done struggle tofigureoutprecisely into your guts,andyet you apathwayyour skin,carves writing isthatitburrows under he thingaboutSJNaudé’s ethereal something. a gay middle-class dismiss theirdomestic inventing anexcuse to couple seemintenton In thefirst story, of thestory, you’re forms. Bytheend worker, awoman an eeriedisquiet in thisgapthat whose sonwas set in,andit’s distance has emotional once like their some strange own. But, somehow, can have surprisingconsequences. deeper intoyour own consciousness. Which coming backtoyou, urgingyou todip and redemption. somehow leaves you withasenseofhope and alsotaintedby violence,anditall to take. Theirnightisbizarreandbeautiful, a doseofhallucinogenichoney they decide series ofbizarremoments,heightenedby to Icelandonholiday andenduphaving a wife whoserelationshipishardtodefinego terriblehashappenedatall.Orit? very shocked andfeelwounded, andyet nothing The ThirdReel. He hasalsowrittenanexcellent novel, major awards foritsAfrikaansedition. The AlphabetofBirds,garneredseveral stories; hisfirst, second bookofshort the originalAfrikaans,DolHeuning ) ishis Penguin Random House,MadHoney (from degree increative writing.Publishedby to SouthAfricacompleteamaster’s New York andLondonbeforereturning SJ Naudéisalawyer whopracticed in All inall,they arestories thatwillkeep In thebook’s titularstory, ahusbandand is Primer forthe21st Century You arewhatyou eat,somaybe Warning: Your food virulent monoculture practices mostly tothedeveloped world, will surely finishusoffinother ‘factory farming’ –hasby-and- ‘factory youyou thinkabouteverything & Hudsonwillchangetheway packed with scary facts,most packed withscary agriculture. Whilethisapplies of industrial farmingdon’t kill the pesticides, fertilisers, and the pesticides, fertilisers, digestible bookfromThames called nutritionwe’re getting manner inwhichlarge-scale you shouldbeworried. Ifthe ways. Thisillustrated, easily the implicationsarethat of whichrevolve aroundthe obesity isrifeandfoodsare obesity mass foodproduction–aka it’s becauseyou don’t know us fromtheinside,then large replacedsmall-scale impact ontheenvironment about rhetoricalquestions. title ofJoy Manning’s book bought goodswe consume eat, drinkandsnackon. harmful chemicals.And,if Is OurFood KillingUs?A sounds ambivalent maybe packed withadditives and components ofthestore- have beenfundamentally and the quality oftheso- and thequality jeopardised. Wide-scale bites back kulula.com

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