Travel by Nivine Maktabi Travel Incredible it is!

Room with a View at the Rambagh Palace.

«Where there is Love, there is Life». Mahatma Gandhi

This trip is very dear to my heart as it marked a big Dyeing pashmina in shaded color hues. Dyeing the Cashmere fabric. moment in my childhood. It was back in 1986 when my

late father planed our New Year holiday. We flew from o back to 1986, we went to Bombay via Dubai, (not Mumbai New and with my mother who also appreciates this Beirut to Dubai, (my first visit to the virgin Dubai back back then) and as I was young (or should I say younger) de- country that leaves great memories with my father. For those who then) with only few hotels like the Intercontinental and Stails like travelling first class for the first time was exciting. haven’t visited this part of the world due to the mix views they one mall called Al Ghorair. I was curious at a young age The fascination didn’t stop there as it was only the beginning of hear be it maybe poor and dirty, I tell them they should at least an exciting trip. After we landed, I just fell in love with this rich visit once and see for themselves. Yes the country is full of contra- and everything fascinated me and that’s why I remember multi cultural country till this day. I was very lucky to have visi- dictions yet isn’t Lebanon full of contradiction too? India is a ve- the trip very vividly. It was also my first time I sipped the ted important cities with my dad, like Bombay, Delhi, Agra and ry colorful and multi cultural country where people of different traditional Arabic Gulf coffee full of cardamom. Today this Srinagar in Kashmir. It was also the first time I heard of the sects coexist. It is also a country where they have the world most type of coffee is still my favorite when I travel to this Himalaya Mountains when my father pointed at them from the beautiful temples, landscape, luxury hotels. During this trip, I plane on our way to Srinagar. Since that day, my visits to India realized how rapidly the country and specially the capital has de- part of the world and to my surprise even the Carlton were recurrent, be it for leisure, a wedding, a carpet fair, or for my veloped, starting from their amazing international airport that at

Jumairah hotel in London serves it in its lobby lounge. © Nivine Archives Maktabi © Nivine Archives Maktabi own carpet and pashmina designs production… Recently, I visited one point I thought it was a copy of Heathrow airport in London. Travel Travel

Hotels When in New Delhi There are many charming hotels with great landscape to visit and to try their restaurants. Some hotels gather selective boutiques Part of my trip was work related; for the new readers, I create and like the Imperial Hotel, the Hyatt, Oberoi which is close to a golf design unique patterns on both carpets and cashmere shawls reflecting club for those who play Golf, the Lodhi Hotel, Taj chain hotels, my middle-eastern roots while being fashion sensitive. India, like among other luxury chain hotels. During this visit, we stayed at Iran, Pakistan and Nepal has a very skilled manpower and artisans both Leela Palace Hotel which is only 6 years old and the Imperial Garden at the Leela Palace Hotel in Delhi. when it comes to carpets weaving and sourcing the best cashmere Hotel which is an old palace with its beautiful gardens. The for my scarves. Like always, I was delighted to visit the factories Leela Palace offers a roof top pool overlooking the city and its huge where the artisans are working and where I can spot check the work parks and a Spa by ESPA. The Spa proposes the best European, in progress of my signed carpets. Should you be planning your next oriental and Ayurvedic therapies using only the purest natural in- trip, it is advisable to travel to India from October to beginning May gredients. I really enjoyed my stay and the impeccable service. As in order to avoid the heat and the monsoon season in summer. for the Imperial hotel, it has a wide selection of remarkable res- taurants; however I was a bit disappointed with the rooms’ decor. There are many places to visit in the capital, I will state a few

The Lotus Temple is an interesting place to visit that resembles a lot like Sydney’s Opera House in Australia. I have visited the temple for the first time in 1998, a decade or so after its completion. Due to its shape, this Unified House of Worship (Bahai House), was named like the flower. It was designed by Iranian architect Fariborz Sahba and completed in 1986. It is a gathering place where Overlooking the largest Indian flag on people of all religions may worship. The lotus represents the ma- Connaught Place from QBA rooftop. nifestation of God and it is also a symbol of purity and tenderness. India Gate in Delhi.

India Gate

The smaller version of Marble Arch in London and Arc de Triomphe Hauz Khan Complex view. in Paris: India Gate is a War Memorial, built in 1931, designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens. This 42 meters high stone arch of victory has the names of the 90000 Indian soldiers who died in the First World War. Shopping Therapy Tunics, Kaftans, silk Sarees, ethnic garments, Papier Mache articles, Dandi March Indian Jewelry, costume jewelry, Cotton fabrics & bed linens, handpainted Indian paintings of different Gods, Indian spices are Gandhi is considered the father of the nation. The Dandi March among the items one should look for as souvenirs from India. I statue represents an important part of the Indian independence recommend browsing these malls and markets i.e.: Khan mar- movement. It was a direct action campaign of tax resistance and non- ket, Dilli Haat open crafts & food market, GK market, Emporio violent protest against the British salt monopoly, directly followed the Mall for couture & evening wear by local impressive Indian de- Purna Swaraj declaration of independence by the Indian National Traditional Auto Rickshaw Tuk Tuk Taxi in India. signers, Promenade Mall, Select Citywalk mall, Connaught place… Congress on January 26, 1930. The Salt March was also called the For affordable and good quality garments check Fabindia store, Traditional Indian Mirror Work on Garments. White Flowing River because all the people were joining the proces- Indian Kuchipudi dance performance by children. it has many branches all over the city. Ogaan is a high-end in- Dandi March view at night. sion wearing white khadi, travelled continuously on foot for 24 days. teresting shop showcasing modern local talented Indian designers. More places to visit During your stay, I highly recommend watching an Indian dance performance: the Kuchipudi Indian dance colorful show with their One should also visit the Red Fort in Old Delhi and experience its traditional artistic costumes. As for restaurants, of course there capturing colored market. Qutb Minar represents the Tower of are many, for a souvenir picture with the biggest Indian flag, Victory for it not only commemorated the ruler’s conquest of Delhi I would say enjoy a meal at QBa on their outdoor terrace, in but served to proclaim the power and prestige of Islam. Built in Connaught place (built by the British) considered the center of red sandstone and decorated with superbly carved quotations from Delhi. Among other good restaurants are: Le Cirque at Leela Hotel, the Qoran, the tower rises 86 meters high. This shows how the coun- 360 at Oberoi Hotel, House of Ming in Taj Mahal Hotel, Amici,

try is characterized by a diversity of religious beliefs and practices. © Nivine Archives Maktabi © Nivine Archives Maktabi Town Hall (my favorite) and Good Earth café, all in Khan Market. Travel Travel

Amer Fort

Pronounced Amber, the fort is located high on a hill, built by Raja Man Singh I. The fort with its large walls, series of gates and cobbled paths, overlooks the Maota lake and its forefront.

A must do Postcard picture opposite the Palace of Winds. It was built in 1799 by Maharaja Sawai Sign and designed in Inside Palladio Restaurant in Jaipur. the form of the crown of the Hindu God, Krishna. The exte- rior looks like the honeycomb with its 953 small windows that are decorated with intricate latticework. This unique flat sur- face served as a peephole for the royal ladies, allowing them . to observe everyday life in the street below without being seen.

Hawa Mahal high screen wall.

Royal Welcome at the Rambagh Hotel in Jaipur. Ganesha most worshiped God in India at the entrance of the House. Inside City Palace with an Antique large carpet. Jaipur

My second stop was Jaipur, the land of Kings, the land of the Maharaja, also known as the Pink City because the Maharaja ordered the buildings to be painted in pink to welcome Edward, the Prince of Wales in 1878 since pink denotes the color of hospitality. Traditional Welcome at the Rambagh Palace Hotel in Jaipur. Jaipur is famous for its unique architecture, forts, monuments, palaces, art & crafts and jewelry collection. You may reach Jaipur either by as a hunting lodge and expanded in 1925 as a Royal Palace that plane which is less than an hour flight or couple of hours by car via was converted into a luxury hotel by Maharaja Sawai Man Singh Agra, allowing you to stop by Taj Mahal and witness the love story II in 1957. The landscape is absolutely stunning and breathtaking. City Palace Guards. of Shah Jahan and his wife Mumtaz Mahal. Taj Mahal was built by The 300 peacocks or so are just exceptional. The dining expe- Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his wife Mumtaz. The rience is also outstanding. And the Yoga morning classes are high- City Palace construction was completed in 1653 after 21 years of hard work, em- ly recommended. The Jiva Grande Spa, just like everything else ploying thousands of artisans from Iran and Italy… overlooking the at the palace, is a window back to the days of pampered royalty. Part of it is the current residency of the Maharani. The last endless sea as a sign of the Emperor endless love. In 1983, the Taj It is indeed a fairytale ambience, along with its signature Spa the- Maharani is Diya Komari who is an Indian politician, manages Mahal became a UNESCO World Heritage Site and was cited as «the rapies. The décor is unique, wooden floors, glowing royal chan- the family heritage and resides in a section of City Palace. jewel of Islamic art and one of the universally admired masterpieces deliers, regal Indian love swings and of course the famous massi- City palace is a palace complex in Jaipur, including the Chandra of the world’s heritage». We stayed at the Rambagh Palace Hotel, part ve indoor swimming pool where the Maharani used to swing and Mahal palace which is partly a museum and partly the royal of the TAJ hotels resorts and Palaces and former residence of the Ma- jump in. A golf course is also walking distance to the premises. residence and Mubarak Mahal palace. The best part of this haraja of Jaipur. Guests are welcomed warmly making us ladies feel The main attractions of Jaipur are: the Amber fort, Hawa Mahal, palace was the immense royal hall showcasing the biggest outs- like a Maharani with petal of roses falling upon arrival. Rambagh City Palace, Albert Hall museum, Jantar Mantar, Jal Mahal, tanding chandelier and the gigantesque Persian floorcovering

Palace is home to history, heritage and heroic folk fare, built in 1835 , … © Nivine Archives Maktabi © Nivine Archives Maktabi carpet resembling to the Ardabil in V&A London museum. Travel Travel

he city is known as number one in the jewelry business, Gem Palace Tsecond comes textile i.e.: block printing that one has to ex- perience and see the work live, carpets come third in place and A must stop if not for shopping at least for the pleasure of the last but not least marble mine for gardens, houses, floorings… eye and to enrich your brains with culture, art, history and sim- ply enjoy detailed work of the Indian rose cut and flat diamonds On the streets, you cannot but notice the sacred animals walking in all shapes and sizes and the «mina-kar» enamel work… around you like the elephants («the elephant-headed God» Shri Samir Kasliwal, son of Sanjay, the third generation in this fami- Ganesh), monkeys (the god of power and strength) or cows, one ly business, was my story teller. He explained to me how every- of the most worshiped animals in India. They are considered holy thing around us is from the 1850s, be it the wallpaper that hasn’t animals in the Hindu culture. The symbolic significance of animals changed color, the electric switches for the lights that are also in India is as vehicles of God. Hence, you may visit the Gold ele- functional to the impressive building as a whole... I am a big phant temple built by the Maharaja in the elephant village in Jaipur, fan of the Indian rose cut diamonds and fell in love with the or the Money Temple… It is interesting to learn about the different glamorous collection. I was lucky to see and wear some of their Gods, I will state few Gods names that we hear and see in paintings, masterpieces and museum pieces he has in his safe. It is worth inside the temples and at home: Ganesha, Shiv or Shiva, Ram, noting that the Kasliwal family was even behind the impressive Hanuvam, Balaji, Godess Laxmi, Godess Saraswati… it is nice to outstanding wedding gift necklace and headpiece that the keep from your trip for good luck, blessing or just a nice souvenir. daughter in law of Amir Qatar wore on her wedding ceremony. Drawing of the Headpiece necklace for the Qatari Royal Wedding.

Antique swing outside the Yoga class in Rambagh Palace.

With the Kasliwal family and their art works. Checking the colored raw stones. New Museum of the Gem Palace Jaipur in progress. n brief, the story of the Kasliwal family dates back to the XVI ICentury, during the when the Maharajas, «great Block Print Art Work on Cotton. Carpet making. kings’of India, represented a vision of splendor and magnificence.» And since then the Kasliwals first established their status as le- Final touches and quality control on a modern handmade indian carpet. or your shopping in Jaipur, the concierge at Rambagh Palace gendary jewelers. This is how, in 1852, The Gem Palace was born, Fwas very efficient and handed me a list of their recommended nestled in Jaipur. Today Sanjay Kasliwal creates sophisticated, shops according to ones interest, whether you are after jewelry opulent pieces of jewelry that impressively reconcile his Indian i.e.: Amrapali, Gem Palace or textile…in that case I would suggest cultural heritage with Western inspirations. He effortlessly fuses Anokhi for their block print garments and home accessories and the techniques of the world’s best goldsmiths, juxtaposing a light lunch at their cute café. contemporary Italian style with ancestral Indian heritage into his designs. The store is a gem in itself and holds a beautiful There are many interesting and modern concept stores around collection from what I call affordable luxury to museum pieces. the Hotel Narain Niwas Palace that I very much enjoyed brow- sing around for unique items and gifts. While you are walking I am sure you will enjoy the pictures as much as I enjoyed living around these stores, I propose you have a bit at Palladio res- these moments and look forward visiting India again. I am happy to taurant, a very nicely decorated Bar/Delicatessen not to be announce that I got inspired by Gandhi and designed limited edition missed. You may also try Nerouz, a local restaurant serving cashmere shawls depicting one of his quotes «My Life is My Messa-

traditional Indian and multi cuisine frequented by mainly locals. © Nivine Archives Maktabi © Nivine Archives Maktabi ge» and «Where there is Love, there is Life»: Mahatma Gandhi