QUARTERLY of Local Architecture and Preservation

Two Dollars

Fall/ Winter 1988-89

THE HISTORIC HUNTSVILLE QUARTERLY of Local Architecture and Preservation

Vol. XV, No. 1 & 2 Fall/Winter 1988-89

Contents

3 Maple Hill Cemetery by Joberta Wasson

22 The Huntsville Powder House

24 Contract for the First Courthouse In Lincoln County Tennessee

26 Huntsville Becomes A Town - From Wilderness Log Cabins To Sturdy Brick Buildings

THE HISTORIC HUNTSVILLE QUARTERLY is published four times a year by the Historic Huntsville Foundation, Inc., P.O. Box 786, H u n t s v i l l e , Alabama 35804. Editor: Micky Maroney. Staff Researcher-Writer: Joberta Wasson. Subscriptions are mailed free to all Foundation members. I

COVER:

Architect George Steele designed the first mausoleum erected in Maple Hill Cemetery - that of Mary Chambers Bibb (1816— 1835). She was a young bride who died three months after her marriage to William D. Bibb, son of Governor Thomas Bibb. The Greek Revival mausoleum is sealed on all four sides, and the legend persists that she was entombed sitting in a rocking chair.

PHOTOGRAPHS AND ILLUSTRATIONS:

Micky Maroney: Cover; pp. 4, 6-14, 18, 19.

From the brochure of Maple Hill Cemetery, published by the Twickenham Woman's Club; artwork and research by Louise Marsh and Minnie Marie Hedden, with map drafting assistance from Linda Bayer: pp. 2, 16, 17.

From the Montesanon 1925, (yearbook of Huntsville College/ Wills-Taylor School): p. 22.

2 Maple Hill Cemetery

by Joberta Wasson

On September 3, 1818, gypsy tribe was encamped in the City of Huntsville paid Huntsville many years ago. LeRoy Pope $75.00 for a two Curious onlookers say that acre plot of land to be used the funeral rites lasted far as a community burial ground. into the night. Mourners So began Maple Hill Cemetery danced and sang around her on what is now its northwest grave, alternately pouring corner. It has grown to wine on it and imbibing, encompass over one hundred themselves. acres. Then, if we walk north An eerie and enthralling along the west wall to a historical tour awaits those tombstone in the shape of a who browse among its towering cross, we will see - literal trees and along its carriage ly - another gypsy. Her por lanes. Here lie five gover trait is on her marker; hand nors of Alabama, business and some, dark-eyed Lena Mit professional leaders, mili chell's (1906-1959) face fits tary men, and many other in her profession - that of a dividuals who, though ob fortune teller. scure, led fascinating lives. Maple Hill was registered by A few feet northeast a the Alabama Historical Asso small stone between two tall ciation in 1962. shafts designates the grave of Jeremiah Clemens (1814- A civic group, the 1865), Mark Twain's cousin. Twickenham Woman's Club, has A Huntsville native, he was made it easy to locate many something of a writer him points of interest in Maple self, being the author of Hill. Talented members have four romantic novels. But drawn a map which pinpoints primarily, Jeremiah was a man them and gives short descrip of action. A hero of the tive material. (The map, in Mexican War, he was elected brochure form, is available Brigadier General of the Ala at the cemetery office.) bama militia when Alabama seceded form the Union. This The best place to start honor displeased him, how a historic tour is at an ever, because he was opposed unmarked grave on the north to secession. He resigned side of the main gate. Here and bravely endured the shame lies a gypsy queen.2 She fell of being called an "arch ill and died while while the traitor." He died of pneumo-

3 The inscription on an ornate monument of twin fluted columns topped by urns hints at an intriguing story: "The Sisters" - "Mary E. Wright, wife of J.M. Wright; born in Nelson County, Va., Dec. 6, 1822; died at her sister's in Huntsville, June 7, 1 855;" and "Margaret C. Moore, wife of Wm. H. Moore; born in Nelson County, Va., April 27, 1825; died at Oakwood, Hunts ville, April 12,1859."

The two obelisks in the background offer another brief his tory: "To the memory of Mary E., wife of Egbert J. Jones, who was born in Huntsville, Jan. 15, 1832, was married June 8, 1854, and died April 7, 1855;" and "Egbert J. Jones; an hon ored member of the Ala. Bar. Col. of the 4th Ala. Regiment; died at Orange Court House, Va. Sept. 1, 1861 of wounds re ceived July 21, 1861 in First Battle of Manassas."

4 nia, a comparatively young this boy long ago. She was man. (His home still stands convinced that she had once at the corner of Clinton been a nurse at Shiloah in a Avenue and Gallatin Street, previous incarnation and had now owned by Huntsville Util tended the fatally wounded ities and used as offices.) boy. Now she felt he wanted her to beautify the neglected Nearby is the grave of family plot. For more than a Anne Bradshaw Clopton (1878- year she came, almost every 1956). As a little girl, she sunny day, to plant, tend, read about a German artist and water. She has gone now who painted on cobwebs. If but has left a legacy of he could do that, so can I, beauty. she told herself. She did indeed master the art and Across the lane from the became famous. One of her Patton plot rests infamous works hangs in the Smithso Governor David Peter Lewis nian Institution. The Burritt (1820-1884), in office during Museum here in Huntsville has the carpetbag regime. He is many more. said to have been greedy and devious. The story is told To find Governor Robert of how he sent out pleas for Patton's (1809-1885) grave- help for victims of a flood. site, we must go to the first Many kind souls sent food, carriage lane leading north. clothing and money, but - An enlightened statesman, he there was no flood. served during some difficult years, just before and imme Continuing our stroll, diately following the Civil we see the tall red granite War. He was ousted by the cross which marks the grave Reconstruction Act. of Governor Reuben Chapman (1799-1882). He was a state The Patton family plot legislator and United States has a singular beauty. In the congressman as well as gover- spring tulips and daffodils cor (1847-1849). In the Chap nod brightly among the con man family plot one headstone federate violets and forget- bears only the name "Mammy." me-nots which grow wild all The family had refused to over the cemetery. Blooming obey an ordinance forbidding almost year-round are shrubs the interment of Negroes in which were planted fairly Maple Hill.3 "She was our recently. It seems that a beloved nurse and one of our few years ago an attractive family and she stays with young lady, a newcomer to us." (Governor Chapman's home Huntsville, visited this is located at 2404 Gaboury plot. She saw there the Lane.) grave of one of the Gover nor's sons who had been a Just northeast of the soldier of the Confederacy. Chapman plot, a Celtic cross As his marker attests, he had marks the grave of LeRoy Pope been killed at the battle of Walker (1817-1884). Walker, Shiloah. The young lady, as Confederate Secretary of reading the inscription, was War under Jefferson Davis, overcome with a powerful triggered the start of the feeling that she had known Civil War by ordering Fort

5 The tombstone of LeRoy Pope Walker (1817-1884). He was a lawyer, state legislator, and first Secretary of War of the Confederate States of America. His grandfather was LeRoy Pope.

Sumpter in South Carolina to especially on rainy evenings, be fired upon. (Walker's home a black hearse pulled by six is located at 413 McClung black horses can be seen Avenue.) along the carriage lane, Gov ernor Bibb seated within. An imposing monument d e s i g n a t e s the grave of (Governor Bibb built a Thomas Bibb (1782-1839), Ala splendid Greek Revival home bama's second governor. He in Huntsville for his daugh was president of the first ter Adeline Bibb Bradley. state senate, among other This home is at 300 Williams accomplishments. Governor Avenue.) Bibb has become the subject of one of the ghost stories A handsome monument top in which all cemeteries seem ped by an urn memorializes to abound. He had passed Dr. David Moore (1787-1845). away at the family home, He was a true Renaissance Belle Mina in Limestone Coun man - planter, state legisla ty, and was laid to r ,e s t tor, friend, and personal there. Some twenty years physician to Andrew Jackson. later the body was exhumed He served on Jackson's medi and reinterred in Maple Hill. cal staff during the Creek It is said that the governor Indian Wars. And "he found tries unceasingly to find his the golden fleece hanging way back home. At dusk, from the cotton stalk," ac

6 The marker of Dr. David Moore (1787-1845), who was a physi cian, planter, state legislator, friend and personal physician to Andrew Jackson. In 1815 Dr. Moore was one of the town trustees to whom LeRoy Pope deeded thirty acres for the town of Huntsville. cording to a local newspaper, His greatest contribution, the Weekly Democrat. He died however, was as a physician. a rich man, but a generous He pioneered the use of man, as well. quinine in the treatment of malaria. The recipient of Near the north wall, many honors, he was well- encompassed in an iron fence, known internationally but was is the family plot of another always homeward-bound - the versatile and brilliant man, father of seven motherless Dr. Thomas Fearn (1789-1863). daughters. (Dr. Fearn and his He, too, served in the Creek family lived at 517 Franklin Indian Wars. Business man Street.) and public servant, state legislator and trustee of the A DAR marker honors University of Alabama, he, Albert Russel (1755-1818) who too, holds an important place served seven years as a Revo in the history of Huntsville. lutionary War soldier.

7 This obelisk is in memory of William Robinson (1808-1852) and his family. Robinson was a planter and sheriff (1840-1843) of Madison County. His widow built Quietdale, the mansion he had designed and gathered materials for prior to his untimely death.

Near the Civil War Vet Bibb, a young bride who died erans Monument lies William in 1835 at the age of nine Robinson (1808-1852), high teen. She is interred in a sheriff of Madison County. mausoleum which is completely He designed a plan and gath sealed on all sides. [See ered the materials for a cover photo.] The legend has mansion to be called "Quiet it that she is inside, sit dale" but did not live to ting upright in a rocking enjoy it. His widow built the chair. Her wedding, to Gov home exactly as he had speci ernor Bibb's son, was to have fied, even to the witches been a very gala affair. Her glass at the front door. wedding dress had come all (Quietdale is located at 401 the way from Paris. At that Quietdale Drive.) time the fashion was for young ladies to have very A strange legend is con pale complexions. Because her nected with Mary Chambers face was not as white as she

8 A simple, unadorned marker indicates the resting place of George Gilliam Steele (1798-1855), one of Huntsville's most noted architects and builders.

wished, she dosed herself on He himself, George Gil what was a very common, but liam Steele (1798-1855), is very dangerous, remedy - buried close by with only a arsenic. Unfortunately, she modest headstone. He designed used too much. Just three (the present) First Alabama months after her marriage, Bank building, other public she died. It is told that for buildings, and many homes, some time she had feared she including his own mansion, was dying and begged not to Oak Place. (A Baptist church be buried underground. now owns Oak Place, located at 808 Maysville Road.) No one now living knows if the legend is true, but Farther east under a one lady, a native Huntsvil- grove of magnolia trees some lian, says, "My mother, who two hundred unknown Confeder is ninety years old, declares ate soldiers are silent re that when she was a little minders of the lost cause. girl, she was told by her great-aunt, who was born in Nearby a pretty rosette 1850, that it was so." The decorates the gravestone of mausoleum of Mary Chambers Mollie Teal (1852-1899), the Bibb was designed by the town's most famous "Lady of noted Huntsville architect the Evening." She was the George Steele. glamorous madam of a house of

9 The headstone of Mollie Teal (1852-1899). She was a madam who ran a popular house of "ill repute." She willed her large house to the city of Huntsville, and the first city hospital was located there from 1904 until 1926.

prostitution, perhaps the senator, and governor of Ala finest "sportin'" house the bama . town ever saw. When she died she left her "house" to the Resting in the same plot city for either a school or a is his famous granddaughter hospital. So, it became Virginia Clay (1862-1911). Huntsville's first hospital. When her father Withers Clay, editor of the Weekly Demo Turning north, we may crat, fell ill, she took over visit the grave of Governor his position. Assisted by Clement Comer Clay ( 1 7 8 9 — her sister Suzanna, she suc 1866). He rode into Hunts cessfully edited the Democrat ville on horseback in 1811 for more than twenty years. with law Dooks stuffed into The first woman news editor his saddle bags. He set up a in the south and possibly in law practice and rose to the the United States, she was top of his profession. He nationally recognized and became chairman of the com respected. She was even in mittee which drafted the Ala vited to address the National bama Constitution in 1819, Editorial Association at its was first chief justice of meeting in 1905. Her politi the Alabama Supreme Court, cal editorials were often United States congressman and reprinted in newspapers as

10 Monument marking the Huntsville Meridian. "Richarti W. Anderson caused this monument to be erected in memory of deceased relations and to perpetuate the Huntsville Meridian." far away as Michigan and New (1790-1859), a wealthy land York. (The J. Withers Clay broker, in honor of his family, including Virginia, brothers and sisters. Al lived for many years at 513 though he was a bachelor, he Eustis Street.) loved children. A bevy of them followed him wherever he Turning south, we reach went, except on his longest a beautiful snow-white marble jaunts. Reportedly, it was monument soaring above all not unusual for him to walk others in Maple Hill. Near from Huntsville to Whites- its pinacle on its east and burg and back before break west sides is carved the word fast. "Meridian." This shaft, in deed, marks the primary Across a carriage lane Huntsville meridian. Legal from the Meridian is another descriptions of land over a Thomas Bibb (1792-1871), a w ide area are measured from cousin of the Governor and a it. The monument was commis hero of the War of 1812. At sioned by Richard Anderson

11 Mausoleum of Albert Russel Erskine (1671-1933). Kussel Erskine was an Industrialist and president of the Studebaker Corporation (1915-1933). The Hotel Russel Erskine in Hunts ville was named for him. He donated the Erskine Addition to Maple Hill in 1918 and the stone entranceway in 1916 in memory of his mother, Sue Ragland Erskine. the Battle of New Orleans he this visit, although no rec single-handedly captured a ord of it has been found in British major. After the war existing newspapers. he settled in Athens, Alabama and into a successful con Now we go up the broad tracting business. central avenue to a handsome mausoleum which is Maple There is a strange tale Hill's veritable focal point. in Bibb family records of an In this crypt is interred honor guard being placed at Albert Russel Erskine (1871- his gravesite by General 1933).4 He was an industrial Sherman during the Civil War magnate, the perfect example because he had been a war of a hometown boy who made hero. This obviously could good. He began his career as not bave been true because a $15.00 a week railroad Bibb aid not die until 1871. company office boy when he General Sherman did visit was a fifteen-year-old school Huntsville in April 1871, drop-out. He soon became head near the iime of Thomas bookkeeper. Then by a series Bibb's death. We might sur of successes, he became the mise that he placed an honor multimillionaire president of guard at the grave during the Studebaker Automobile

12 This mausoleum is the resting place of John Lee Robinson (1891-1947) and his sheepdog Mickey (1929-1947). Robinson was a successful cotton broker. The emblem carved over his name at the top of the tomb represents two bales of cotton.

Corporation in South Bend, Hotel at 123 East Clinton Indiana. He was also a civic Avenue was named in his hon leader and president of Notre or. The building has since Dame University's lay Board, been converted to apart as well. ments.)

Russel Erskine's success In another mausoleum came to him so easily that he south of Erskine's lies John never learned to cope with Lee Robinson (1891-1947) and failure. For the first time his sheepdog Mickey. Natural in his life, he encountered ly, the dog preceded him in it when the Studebaker Com death. "My dog stuck by me pany went into receivership all his life and now I'll during the great depression. stick by him." John L. Rob He died from a self-inflicted inson was a successful cotton bullet wound. broker.

An a p p a r i t i o n of an Behind the Erskine mau angel appears at night on the soleum a tiny flat stone, portal of his mausoleum. etched with the outline of a Whatever combination of chem dog, marks the resting place icals - or ghostly ectoplasm of Pepe, the beloved chihua - causes this phenomonon, it hua of the Edward Rolfe is there. (The Russel Erskine family.

13 A Gothic style mausoleum serves as a memorial to Dr. William Henry Burritt (1869-1955). Dr. Burritt willed his home on Round Top Mountain to the city of Huntsville for a museum and nature preserve. Mysteriously, the mausoleum contains seven unidentified caskets, in addition to the caskets of Burritt family members.

A small flat stone marks the grave of Pepe (c. 1959-1975), a Mexican Chihuahua. The lit tle dog was the beloved com panion of the Edward Rolfe family.

14 Walking back down the St. Louis for many years, but broad avenue, we pass an after her death and after intriguing stone with the inheriting the bulk of her message: "Jessup Whitehead estate, he returned to Hunts 1833-1889; Chef de Cuisine; ville in 1933. The mausoleum, Monte Sano Hotel; And Author erected to his specifications of Many Cook Books." soon after his return, con tains the bodies of his moth Across from this marker, er and father and of his a slender shaft bears the first wife Pearl. His ashes inscription: "Adelaide Eugene remain in an urn to the left Bankhead; July 14, 1880- of the entrance. Mysterious February 23, 1902; Beloved ly, the mausoleum contains wife of William Bankhead." seven other caskets, all sealed, indicating bodies She was the mother of within. No one knows whose famous actress Tallulah Bank bodies because there is no head and of Eugenia Bankhead, identification. longtime keeper of the state archives. Her husband was To the south of the William Bankhead, for many Burritt mausoleum rests LeRoy years Speaker of the House of Pope (1764-1845), the man Representatives. She died in honored as the Father of childbirth with Tallulah. (At Huntsville. Lawyer, planter, the time of Tallulah's birth, and early resident, his con the Bankhead family lived in tributions to the physical, an apartment on an upper economic, and political de floor of the Schiffman Build velopment of the town were ing at the corner of East considerable. (His home is Side Square and Eustis known as Echols Hill and is Street.) located at 403 Echols Ave nue.) Farther down the avenue a beautiful Gothic style mau Sharing a tombstone with soleum serves as a memorial Pope is his son-in-law, John to Dr. William Henry Burritt Williams Walker (1783-1823). (1869-1955). He willed his He was president of the house and grounds on Round state's 1819 constitutional Top Mountain to the City of convention and the first Huntsville for a museum and United States senator from nature preserve. It opened Alabama. its doors in 1957 and now regularly attracts thousands Still farther south a of visitors. simple gray stone, with the inscription "Blessed Are the In 1899 when Dr. Burritt Pure in Heart," memorializes was a young, handsome local poet-artist Maria Howard physician, he received a pro Weeden (1847-1905). Her gen posal of marriage from a tle evocation of life in late lady. She was a widowed 19th century Huntsville shows tobacco heiress, Mrs. Jose black servants and white mas phine Drummond, twenty years ters all as one loving fami his senior. He accepted. They ly, all poor together. Her lived happily in her home in portraits of blacks display a

15 MAP LEGEND:

0 ** Meridian. 1 ** Gov. Thomas Bibb, 1782-1839. 2 * Gov. Clement Clay, 1789-1866. 3 * Gov. Reuben Chapman, 1799-1882. 4 * Gov. Robert Miller Patton, 1809— 1885. 5 * Gov. David Peter Lewis, 1820-1884. 6 Cemetery Office. 7 Civil War Veterans Monument and burial ground. 8 World War I, World War II, and Korean War Monument. 9 Disabled American Veterans Monument. 10 Garden Area. 11 Potter's Field. 12 Hebrew Burial Ground. 13 * Adalaide Eugene Bankhead, 1880— 1902. 14 ** Mausoleum, Mary Chambers Bibb, 1816-1835. 15 ** Mausoleum, Dr. William H. Burritt, 1869-1955. 16 Henry B. Chase, 1870-1961. 17 * Chef Jessup Whitehead, 1833-1889. 18 * Clement Claiborne Clay, 1816-1882. 19 * Virginia Clay-Clopton, 1823-1915. 20 * Anne Bradshaw Clopton, 1878-1956. 21 ** Mausoleum, Albert Russel Erskine, 1871-1933. 22 * Dr. Thomas Fearn, 1789-1863. 23 Dr. Carl August Grote, 1887-1964. 24 * Lena Mitchell, 1906-1959. 25 ** Dr. David Moore, 1787-1845. 26 ** Pepe, circa 1959-1975. 27 ** LeRoy Pope, 1764-1845. 28 ** Mausoleum, John Lee Robinson, 1891-1947. 29 ** William Robinson, 1808-1852. 30 * Albert Russel, 1755-1818. 31 ** George Gilliam Steele, 1798-1855. 32 ** Mollie Teal, 1852-1899. 33 Rev. Jerimiah F. Trecy, 1826-1872. 34 ** John Williams Walker, 17.8 3—1823 • Map of the historic part of Maple Hill Cemetery. The map is from the 35 ** LeRoy Pope Walker, 1817-1884. Maple Hill Cemetery brochure which is available at the cemetery office. 36 * Maria Howard Weeden, 1847-1905.

* Mentioned in text. ** Mentioned in text and pictured.

16 17 ABOVE: The family plot of LeRoy Pope (1764-1845) and John Williams Walker (1783-1823). The two men share a tombstone. Pope is honored as the "Father of Huntsville" for his contri butions to the physical, economic, and political development of the town. He was a lawyer, planter, and the chief justice of the first Madison County court. Walker, who was Pope's son-in-law, was a lawyer, president of the 1819 constitutional convention, and first U. S. Senator from Alabama. Also, he was the father of LeRoy Pope Walker. (See page 6).

OPPOSITE PAGE: Standing like sentinals, nearly identical tombstones mark the graves of five babies of S. H. and M. A. Allison. The parents are not buried anywhere near the graves of their four sons and one daughter. The dates carved on the markers are: "Oct. 19, 1853, 18 days; Dec. 13, 1853, 2 years; Dec. 28, 1856; March 3, 1858; Sept. 4, 1860."

18 rare beauty. (The Weeden fam Abraham Lincoln. President ily home, now a house museum, Andrew Johnson signed their is at 300 Gates Avenue.) release in 1866.

Soon we arrive at a Senator Clay's wife Vir five-point intersection. Here ginia (1823-1915), dynamic are the last two graves we and lovely, became the belle will visit, those of Clement of Washington in the pre-war Claiborne Clay (1816-1882) decade. She later wrote A and his wife Virginia. The Belle of the Fifties, an oldest son of Governor Clay, account of her happy years he became a lawyer, a state there. Five years after her legislator, and then United husband's death she married States senator. Judge David Clopton but kept the name Clay, as well. On January 21, 1861, southern senators by prear Our tour has taken us rangement announced the with mainly through the oldest drawal of their states from parts of the cemetery. Out the Union and walked out of side of its historic sections the Senate before crowded we visited only the Erskine galleries, Senator Clay among and Robinson mausoleums and them. Later he became polit the grave of the little dog ically active in the Confed Pepe. Maple Hill has many erate cause. He was impris more stories to tell, some of oned with Jefferson Davis in them merely hinted at by Fortress Monroe in 1865, inscriptions on forgotten falsely accused of conspiring tombstones. to assassinate President

19 FOOTNOTES

1 Further research has shown that there are a few minor errors in the brochure. 2 The rank of "Queen" does not exist in the gypsy hier archy. "Queen," as the gypsies use it, must mean "Matriarch."

3 This ordinance was repealed in 1969.

4 The mausoleum had been erected several years before by Russel Erskine as the designated final resting place for him and his family.

SOURCES

Books:

Bedsole, Vergil. The Life of Jeremiah Clemens. University, Ala.: The Author, 1934.

Betts, Edward. Early History of Huntsville, Alabama. Montgomery: Brown Publishing Co., 1909.

Marks, Henry. Sketches of the Tennessee Valley in Antebellum Days. Huntsville: Southern Press, Inc., 1976.

Taylor, Judge Thomas Jones. A History of Madison County and Incidentally of North Alabama, 1712-1840. University, Ala.: Confederate Publishing Co., 1886.

Newspapers and Periodicals:

"City Drops Cemetery Race Ban." Huntsville Times, 10 Sept. 1969.

Cobun, Peter. "Legends." Huntsville Times, 27 March 1977.

Dickerson, George. "Albert Russel Erskine." South Bend Tribune Sunday Magazine, 22 April 1972.

Digby, Edith. "More than 28,000 Buried in Maple Hill Cemetery." Huntsville Times, 16 July 1944.

20 SOURCES

Frazier, Bill. "Paintings, Tribute to an Artist's Perseverence." Huntsville Times, 16 Aug. 1972.

"A Gypsy Queen Buried Here." Huntsville Times, 4 Feb. 1988.

Huntsville Times, Sesquicentennial Issue, 11-17 Sept. 1955.

Tatum, Dana. Alabama Constitution, Newsletter of Constitution Hall Park, Fall/Winter 1982.

Tennessee Valley Bicentennial Year Times, 8 Feb. 1976.

Other Sources:

Bibb Family Records. Heritage Room, Huntsville Public Library.

Clay Family Scrapbook. Heritage Room, Huntsville Public Library.

Deed Book M, p. 30. Probate Records Room, Madison County Courthouse.

Interviews with longtime residents of Madison County.

King, Shelbie. "Thomas Fearn, the Man." Thesis, Univ. of Ala., Huntsville .

Plat Book 1. Probate Records Room, Madison County Courthouse.

21 22 [The following unsigned essay is from The Montesanon 1925, yearbook of Huntsville College/Wills-Taylor School, p. 90.]

Strange it is to hear leading down to a wide flat the different stories and "foot-log," which lead [sic] opinions of the Huntsville across the branch to the Powder House. As the Chinese powder house, which was about proverb is -- When the jater thirty feet from the branch. has receded, the stones will It's [sic] front faced south. appear. Let us then dismiss The structure was a small from our minds the idea that brick house about ten feet this powder house was oper square. It had a steel door ated for the use of the sol and a concrete floor. It was diers. It was not. It was the container of the powder built and used by the mer of Huntsville. chants of Huntsville. It was sometimes referred to as the Some years later, it was Merchant's Powder House. abandoned, another was built on the little spur of the Sometime about the year mountain above the cemetery. 1850, the merchants of Hunts It was situated on a little ville and the near surround rise, /here the first ascent ings got together and raised to the mountain is reached, funds to erect a powder house on the Monte Sano Drive. A to store their powder, dyna change to this location, the mite, and shells, there not people thought, would be more being enough room in the safe, and would be a little local stores. They too were more convenient. This house considering the safety of the was a little larger than the town, when they thus consid other one, for Huntsville was ered. In case of a fire, the growing; there were more damage would be threefold. stores that handled powder. This structure was built of The powder house was brick; it had a concrete built a little way down the floor, steel door, and a well Big Spring Branch, then call supported roof. The inside ed the canal. It was situ measurements of this house ated on the north side of the was [sic] about fifteen feet branch, about two-thirds the long, twelve feet wide, and distance from Gallatin street fourteen feet high. There [sic] to the point where the were no windows. Although branch joined the dry creek. very crude, it is one of There was a walkway on the Huntsville's relics. south side of the branch, W. H. P.

23 Contract For The First Court House In Lincoln County Tennessee

[EDITOR'S NOTE: Not much is known about the appearance of the first Madison County, Alabama Court House, other than the fact that it was a two-story brick structure probably in the Feder al style. Since it was built at about the same time (it is thought to have been completed no later than 1816) as the neighboring Lincoln County, Tennessee Court House, construc tion methods and materials were undoubtedly very similar. One can better imagine the appearance of both buildings from the following specifications, an exact copy of the original con tract for the first Lincoln County Court House in Fayette ville, Tennessee.]

REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM THE VOLUNTEER, SPRING 1977, p. 12, JOURNAL OF THE LINCOLN COUNTY HISTORICAL SOCIETY.

To be let Thursday the 22nd 2-1/2 brick thick, the second of November 1810. story to be 12 feet high, 2 brick thick, the lower floor The building of a Court House to be laid with brick edge for the County of Lincoln in up, the second floor to be the Town of Fayetteville. supported by a girder 14 inches square, the joist to Dimensions: be 14 inches by 4, all of good yellow poplar, the joist 40 feet square, the walls to to be placed two feet apart be of brick and the founda center to center, the floor tion of stone. The foundation to be of good quartered yel wall to be 2-1/2 feet thick, low poplar 1-1/2 inches sunk 2 feet under ground and thick, well tongued and raised 3 feet above ground. grooved, the girder to be The brick wall to contain 2 supported by 2 good strong stories in height, the lower well turned walnut posts, the story to be 15 feet high in posts to stand upon a well the clear, the wall to be founded pillar of stone. The

24 stone not to be seen above sage into each room, the the floor, the second floor shutters to the upper doors to be well ceiled underneath to be single panel doors, the with good quartered yellow shutters to the lower doors poplar planks, the second to be panel doors well lined tier of joists to be 10 with a good and sufficient inches by 4 placed 2 feet double lock to the South door apart from center to center that is a spring bolt and one to be ceiled underneath with to turn by key, and good good quartered yellow poplar bolts to the other two doors, planks neatly planed and with good stone steps to each beaded. The roof to be of door, and good bolts and good poplar or chestnut joint spring locks to the upper shingles, and to be well doors, also window shutters sheated with yellow poplar and bolts to the lower story, planks, inch thick on good the door and window shutters sufficient rafters with cor and facing painted white, the nice medallion, and the roof Judges Seat, the Clerk Seat to be well painted red imme and Bar and Jury Box to be diately after covered in, a fixed in the same manner as fireplace of customary size, the Court House in Nashville, to be made in each corner of all to be done in a neat the second story, the stairs workmanlike manner, any per to begin in the North west son or persons who undertakes corner of the lower story and the Public Buildings, Bond to land in the center of the and Security will be required North side of the house in a by the Commissioners. The 8 foot passage, the east side Building is to be completed of the passage to be cut by the First Day of November through the center of a par 1813. tition through it East and West, the passage and parti Commissioners John Whitaker tion walls to be made of James Stuart 1-1/2 inch plank of yellow Eli Garett poplar, stairs to be put up Hardy Holman with banister and hand rail W. Edmiston with doors of customary size to be in the center of the Contract let to Macajah and South, West and North sides William Muckleroy for with a row of lights 8X10 $3,935.00. over each door, 16 24-light windows in the lower story, Stocks received of James the glass to be 8 X 10 and 16 Miller by Vance Greer and windows in the upper story. John P. McConnell, Commis Sixteen lights in each and a sioners. Nov. 27, 1811. door to open out of the pas

25 Huntsville Becomes A Town

From Wilderness Log Cabins to Sturdy Brick Buildings

REPRINTED FROM THE HUNTSVILLE TIMES - HUNTSVILLE'S SESQUICENTENNIAL - SEPTEMBER 11-17, 1955

Site Is Ordered For bought the land with the Twickenham intention of laying out a town site. The sixty acres South Half Of Square And were platted. The platted Areas To Williams Bought area was bounded on the north By Commission by what is now Holmes Street; on the east by Lincoln The Town of Twickenham, Street; on the south by later Huntsville, was created Williams Street; and on the by an act of the Territorial west by ... Gallatin Street. Legislature Dec. 22, 1809. The Twickenham Act had This was the first gov named William Dickson, Edward ernment act having to do Ward, Louis Winston, Alexan directly with the Hunt's der Gilbreath, and Peter Spring settlement, the other Perkins, all of whom resided acts up to this time relating in the county, as commission only to Madison County. ers "for the purpose of fix ing on the most convenient This was not an act of place for establishing the incorporation, but simply set public buildings of the said up a commission of three men county." to select a site for public buildings. In the land sales The act further provided held in August in Nashville, that they were to buy or LeRoy Pope had bought the otherwise procure 30 to 100 quarter section of land on acres of land, reserve three which the big Spring was acres for public buildings, located at $23 per acre, and to plat the town on the about four times as much as remainder into half-acre surrounding land. Pope had lots.

26 These lots were to be S t o r e s And Inn sold, and the money used to First On Square pay for the land. All the remainder was to be used for Town Of 1810 Mainly Scattered public buildings. Log Cabins, Rock Pile On Square As soon as a public building was erected, the When men first vied for commissioners were to notify purchase of lots in the town judges of the county courts, site of Twickenham, a big who would have to hold courts pile of bare rock, sloping on in the Courthouse thereafter. every side and holding a pond at one side, was the area to Since Pope had already be the Public Square. bought the land on which the town was platted, probably by Around the rocky knoll J. W. Leake, a local survey were dense trees, and a ridge or, the commissioners bought of cedar stretched eastward 30 acres from him, including to Pope's Ridge, the present only half of the Public Echols Hill. Along this cedar Square and land to the south ridge were scattered cabins. of the Big Spring, for $25 Other cabins were around the per acre. Pope donated the Big Spring, and southward to north half of the Square to what is now [in 1955] the the town, including a lot for city limit at Donegan Lane. the jail on the northeast corner of the Square. Water stood in ponds west of what is now the This deed was made Whitesburg area and west of Sept. 1, 1815, and was made the Big Spring. Between Clin to the five commissioners, ton and Holmes streets were then elected annually each low, marshy lands. February. In that year, John Brahan, who had come here After the city was in from Nashville as a govern corporated, five trustees ment surveyor and receiver of elected and work begun on public monies, Peter Perkins, streets, the picture changed David Moore and Louis Winston rapidly. John Read, register were the commissioners. of public lands, who came here in 1811, built three The area was generally stores on the south side of bounded by Henry Street (now the Square at the west end of Gallatin), Williams Street, Commercial Row, and a house Lincoln Street, and the in the next block at the Square. southwest corner of the Square. Here later lived The "free and uninter David T. Knox, a silversmith rupted" use of the water for of high repute among early the citizens of the area was settlers. guaranteed in the deed, and it also prohibited dams or The first brick stores machinery that would produce were erected on the east half stagnation at the spring. of the block north of the Square. Talbot Inn went up on the east side of the

27 Square, taking up the north During the first 10 ern half of that block, and years in the city, there was the first market house Was a small drygoods store, a nearby. At the southeast cor grocery which was then called ner of the Square, Calvin and a "whiskey shop," a hatter's Luther Morgan built a home shop, and a bowling alley. and at the back on Franklin Street, Clement Comer Clay By the time lots sales set up his law office in in the downtown area were 1811. He arrived here with completed in 1816, Pope was only one Negro servant, two erecting his beautiful resi horses, his law books in a dence, which still stands, on saddlebag, and a small sum of Pope's Ridge, and had subdi money. vided an area to the south, including Adams Avenue and The lot at the northeast McClung Street, with some corner of the Square was also lots as big as three and four used for a residence, that of acres, and which were being James Brock. bought for homes of the wealthiest residents.

[ED. NOTE: The following in growth and the influence of formation is excerpted from a its citizens, was to play the long article about the gen leading role in the estab eral history of early Hunts lishment of the Alabama Ter ville.] ritory in 1817, and the State of Alabama two years later in Huntsville's Influence Spread 1819. Rapidly After Incorporation As Town During this period, Mad ison County had a population City Became equal to more than half the A Dominant Power total population of all that In The Territory area which was to be the State of Alabama. And that By John Craig Stewart population was centered in the town of Huntsville. After the town of Hunts ville was incorporated [on Starting in 1810, and Dec. 9, 1811; the name was accelerating itself immedi changed to Huntsville that ately following the incorpor year, also] and established ation of the town, a fever of as the county seat of the building began. The old log recently formed county of huts of early settlers had to Madison, the people set about be replaced with buildings of building a city which was to stone and brick. be the nonpareil of the Mis sissippi Territory. In 1810, two masons, the brothers Thomas and William It soon became a domi Brandon, settled in Hunts nant influence in the terri ville, and there was more tory, a power which, through than sufficient opportunity its financial and cultural for their skills. The Court

28 house was completed by 1816, tablishment of newspapers and by this time the Square here. was the site of many handsome brick buildings housing the The first paper began early commercial establish publication in 1812. It was ments . named the Madison Gazette arid was originally owned by T. G. One of the earliest mer Bradford and Company.... The cantile houses was founded by Gazette was the second news Alexander Gilbreath in 1810 paper published in the Terri at the corner of Gates and tory .... Henry [Gallatin] streets — The Madison Gazette, On the north side of the however,... was replaced in Square, John Brown built the September 1816, by the Hunts first two stores on Exchange ville Republican, an enter Row. A little later, J. 0. prise of Thomas B. Grant- Crump built another store land.... near these. John Reid built the first house on the old Another Huntsville news Schandies property which was paper, the Huntsville Advo located at the southwest cor cate, had been established in ner of the Square. Mr. A. 1815___ Jameson afterward bought this and ran a hotel there. This All the building which hotel was later owned and took place in this period did operated by Allen Cooper, not have to do with commer Neal B. Rose, and John Hick cial and business establish man. LeRoy Pope built the ments. The people built with first store on the east side an idea of permanency and of the Square. beauty.

There were no ABC boards As to the location of or State liquor stores in some of the earliest homes, those days, but taverns were let us again quote from Gen not lacking in early Hunts eral Betts' "History:" ville. A Mr. Cheatham owned and operated a tavern [Bell "Most of the wealthier Tavern] on the west side of citizens built houses along Jefferson Street near the the south of the town, just Square, and just across the out of the town limits, street in the center of the ranging from Pope's - now block, a large tavern was Echols - Hill on the east, to operated by Archibald Mader- the spring bluff on the west, ra. This building, also a along what is now Williams hotel, was to be the head Street, which was lined with quarters for the delegates to towering oaks and stately the Constitutional Convention poplars; while others erected of 1819. their houses along Maiden Lane [Eustis], just south of But one of the most a rugged and picturesque important indications of the bluff, upon which was later progressive growth of early situated the home of LeRoy Huntsville was the rapid es Pope...."

29 Remarkable as it may divided into half acre lots, seem, these and other fine so that every lot is a corner homes were erected during a lot. The Public Square con period when most of Alabama tains about three and a half was a wilderness.... acres, lying immediately back of the spring cliff. On this The growth of the town are a courthouse, and market in the first few years of of brick, and a small wooden this period (up to 1816) was jail. The first lot was sold phenomenal, but to some ex on the 4th of July, so that tent was held in check by the the whole town is the growth uncertainty of the times, of six years. In the suburbs clouded by the Creek Indian are five cotton gins." War and the War of 1812. The most fabulous growth was to And so it was, as the come, as we shall see, be year 1815 ended, that Hunts tween 1816 and 1829, a period ville and all of Madison which included the land sales County stood upon the brink of 1818, and a rise in prices of its most prosperous which approached actual in days.... flation. However, by 1816, Huntsville had planted its Soon after the Govern foundations firmly in the ment Land Office was moved b e d r o c k 'about the "Big from Nashville to Huntsville Spring," and was "on its in 1817, the fabulous land way." The population of sales of 1818 took place Madison County in 1816 had here. If the land sales of reached the incredible figure 1809 at Nashville represented of 14,200. heavy buying, these sales of 1818 represented a rush of To give some insight purchasers, which "created as into the optimistic outlook great excitement, all things of the town, let us quote considered, as the California from a letter written in 1815 gold fever of 1848-49." by John W. Walker to the Secretary of the United Nothing like it had been States Treasury, W. H. Craw seen in the South before. It ford. This is what he says so happened that at this time of Huntsville and the county: new lands in the Territory were put up for sale. These "Huntsville is situated included not only lands in about ten miles from the Madison County, but lands Tennessee River, immediately throughout ... North Alabama, round one of the finest in what are now the counties springs in the world, issuing of Morgan, Blount, St. Clair, from a fine perpendicular Jackson, Limestone, Lau cliff 50 feet high, in a derdale, Lawrence and Frank sheet of water 150 wide in a lin... semi-circle forming instantly a fine bold creek, which it Perhaps lending to the is now confidently believed speculative, optimistic spir can, at a trivial expense, be it of the times was the fact rendered navigable for bat- that Alabama had been author teaux to the Tennessee. Each ized as a territory in Decem square contains two acres, ber 1817. The people of the

30 great Tennessee Valley were 260 houses principally now free of the Mississippi built of brick, has a Delta influence in their bank, a courthouse and a affairs. market house. There is a large square in the William Wyatt Bibb was centre of town, like the governor of the new territo towns in Ohio. Facing ry. The population of Hunts this are the stores, ville far exceeded that of twelve in number. The any other town. Huntsville buildings form a solid was without question the wall, though divided into leading town, the heart and apartments. soul, of the new Alabama Territory.... These were the The workmanship is the truly golden years of Hunts best I have seen in all ville's early development. ... the State; and several of the houses are three And so we come to the stories high and very end of that early period, large. the turbulent first fifteen years, in the history of There is no church. Huntsville. The people assemble in the Courthouse to wor For one last look at the ship . old town of that time, let us read what an eye witness, a Huntsville is settled visitor, had to say. As by people mostly from quoted in Brantley's Three Georgia and the Caroli- Capitals, Anne Royal in her nas - though there are a "Letters from Alabama" wrote few from almost every on January 1, 1818, that part of the world; - and Huntsville had: the town displays much activity.

31 The citizens are gay, First Cemetery Across polite, and hospitable, End Of Greene Street and live in great splen dor. Nothing like it in The first cemetery for our county. Huntsville was located on Meridian Road, at the point It was this group of where Greene Street now meets "gay, polite, and hospitable" the road. citizens who in July, 1819, received the Constitutional Greene Street came to a Convention which made Alabama dead end about two-thirds of a state of the Union. its present length from Holmes Street, and the city Huntsville's sons used this as a burial ground played a commanding part in until purchase of the present the framing of that Constitu Maple Hill Cemetery in 1824. tion and in the "lone but memorable" first session of Walker Street did not the General Assembly when exist then, being opened Huntsville was the "temporary after the Civil War. Seat of Government" for the Infant state.

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32 from Historic Huntsville Foundation, Inc. P. O. Box 786 Huntsville, Alabama 35804