FASHION HISTORY THE EARLIEST

The first clothes and fabrics: • Simple construction and design • Food and shelter were main goals • Cave dwellers • Needed to keep warm • animal skins with hair side in • Africa, South Pacific, Parts of Asia • Needed to protect from sun and rain • Laced grasses together for mats and baskets • Bark of trees soaked and treated until soft for cloth • Egypt- made linen from flax plants • India- fabric made of cotton • China- silk from silk worms ANCIENT EGYPT

Lightweight linen and cotton Good for hot climate Men and Women • Wide collars made of beads or stones Men • Knee length tied in front • Sleeved, shirt like garment Women • Long, straight - tied behind neck or at shoulder • Some short sleeves • Short tied around shoulders MINOAN CONTRIBUTION

Women •First fitted garments •Full skirts stretched to bell shape- wood hoops underneath •Formfitting short jackets •Colorful fabrics- geometric designs and nature prints •Small hats ANCIENT

Elaborately draped, wrapped and pinned long rectangular pieces of fabric • Men and women • Two fabric rectangles joined at shoulders and held in place by jeweled pins • • Rectangular piece of fabric draped with one end over the one shoulder and the other end over the opposite arm Wool Linen and silk- wealthier classes ROMAN EMPIRE

Greek culture spread to Rome Greek Himation was basis of Roman Toga • Long piece of rectangular or semicircle fabric wrapped around body • Always exposed right arm and covered left arm • Different colors for different occupations/class ranks • Emperor- purple • Underneath toga • Fell over shoulders and down arms forming sleeves • Men wore gold rings and bracelets Women • • Long, belted robe similar to chiton • - over stola • Necklaces, brooches, earring and gold wedding rings CHINA AND JAPAN

Women • Coat and long skirts Men • Long robe Both began to wear later Simple shapes with straight lines Elaborate embroidery on some High, narrow collar In winter, clothes padded with cotton or silk for warmth • Slim, fitted with a high collar and buttons down right side. • Standard dress for men and women • Started as one piece, but then two piece • Cotton and then silk • Fabric, colors and arrangement of layers depended on the wearer and occasion THE EVOLUTION OF

Middle Ages • 400-1400 • Gradual change in clothing styles • Men • Simple wool or linen and long stockings • - knee length pants • Women • Tunics over long • Gowns with fitted , very full and long, full sleeves • Goatskin and sheepskin outer garments provided protection in cold weather • Middle class started to prosper, making it difficult to know which class was which • Sumptuary laws- Controlled what each class could wear • Punishments included fines, imprisonment and death THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION

Renaissance •1400- 1500 •The exploration of the new world brought wealth to Europe •Italy, France and Spain featured elaborate designs, fabrics and decorations- lace, jewels, furs •Wealthier classes set standards •Bright colors and large prints •Lots of layering THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION

Renaissance Cont’d • Men • - Tight fitting shirt • - sleeveless skirted garment • Short with very full sleeves topped garment • Long stockings and puffed breeches • Women • Dresses with fitted bodice and very wide skirt • - Metal, wood or whalebone frames under skirt • Skirts sometimes split to show off fancy • Men and Women • Ruffs- Stiff pleated collars • Shoes trimmed with buckles and bows • Slashing- garment slit for an under one to be pulled through in small puffs THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION

Seventeenth Century • 1600’s • France became world’s fashion leader • Louis XIV • Royal court at Versailles set the style • Men • Lace in men’s garments • Breeches trimmed with lace at hem • Long, full sleeves embroidered or trimmed with ribbon bows • - lace-edged piece of linen circled neck and tied in knot or bow • Powdered wigs became popular at end • Women • Gowns fell naturally • Lace collars and lace-trimmed • Necklines lower • Hairstyles higher • Beauty marks applied to face THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION

Eighteenth Century • 1700s • Men and Women • Elegant with laces, ribbons and colorful silks • Madame de Pompadour • influenced fashion • Trimmed gowns with bows, edged neckline with lace, frilled neckband • Pompadour hairstyle- Lifted and combed straight back THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION

Eighteenth Century • Men • coat with fitted waist and flared hem • Narrow turned over collars • Wigs not as popular • Women • French revolution- commoners rebelled wealthy • loose, flowing muslin dresses like ancient Greece • Royalty- Wide skirts, rich fabrics, elaborate trims • Purses- dresses had no room for pockets • Soft, ringlet curls • Europeans brought to New World with them THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION

Nineteenth Century • 1800s • French Revolution over • Dressing like royalty and upper classes frowned on throughout Europe • Rise of middle class meant that a lot of people could afford to buy new clothes more often THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION

Nineteenth Century • Men • Cutaway jacket- evolved into tailcoat and then knee-length coat • No more bright colors and lace trims • Trousers- no more breeches • Matching of coat, vest and trousers • Women • Empire- Raised waistline (inspired by Empress Josephine- Napolean’s wife) • Dresses became fuller and more elaborate • Stiff petticoats- fancy underskirts with ruffled or lace edges • - full, stiff underskirts • Hoops supported skirts • Leg-of-mutton sleeves- full at , narrow at bottom • Necklines widened • Tightly laced THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION

Nineteenth Century • Victorian Society- late 1800s • Clothes designed more for appearance than practicality • Idea that women were fragile, delicate creatures • Bustled skirts overtook full skirts • High necklines and long, fitted or leg-of-mutton sleeves • Gibson Girl Look- 1890s • Charles Dana Gibson- American artist drew illustrations • Women who worked in factories • Simple skirts and shirtwaists- tailored white blouses SUMMARIZER…

Which parts of the earliest clothing and the evolution of fashion are like today?

Which parts are different from today?