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GotMarch 2019 fro m theRum? grass to your glass, since 2001!

COOKING WITH RUM - Angel’s Share - CIGAR & Rum - MUSE OF MIXOLOGY - RUM HISTORIAN - RUM IN THE NEWS - Cocktail scientist - MARDI GRAS SPECIAL - RUM UNIVERSITY 6

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Got Rum? March 2019 - 2 Contents March 2019

5 From The Editor 6-9 The Angel’s Share - Rum Reviews 10-13 COOKING WITH RUM 14-17 The RUM UNIVERSITY - FERMENTATION 18-21 THE MUSE OF MIXOLOGY 22-23 THE RUM UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 32-35 THE RUM biography 36-39 THE RUM historian 40-45 mardi gras special 46-49 The cocktail scientist 50-53 rum IN THE NEWS 56-59 CIGAR and RUM PAIRING

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Got Rum? March 2019 - 3 Got Rum?® Printed in the U.S.A. A publication of Rum Runner Press, Inc. Hutto, Texas 78634 - U.S.A.

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FRONT COVER: Masqueraded Rum

INSIDE SPREAD: The Spirit of Mardi Gras FROM THE EDITOR

Marching March

The month of March has traditionally been referred to as being both “a lion and a lamb,” meaning that it is equally fierce and calm. This analogy is fitting, as the month derives its name from Mars, the Roman god of war. Wars, like lions, are disruptive, aggressive and catalysts for life and death. But lions are also majestic and possess an eerie calmness that can be reassuring.

For those of us in the Northern hemisphere, March is definitely at the frontline between the lingering winter and the impatient spring. Charles Dickens captured this concept eloquently, in his famous quote about March:

“It was one of those March days when the sun shines hot and the wind blows cold: when it is summer in the light, As you can see, we are witnessing life and winter in the shade.” marching on, bravely and unstoppable, but definitely at its own pace! The area between sunshine and shade can be uncomfortable, but it is also the On a separate note, I am very happy birthplace of hope and of the promise to welcome our newest contributing of a warmer, kinder tomorrow. writer: his name is Joel Lackovich and I’m sure you will enjoy his column “The • The barrel aging cellar at Rum Cocktail Scientist,” which can be found Central is slowly warming up during on page 46. the day, but still remains numbingly- cold at night. Cheers, • Regions where sugarcane is cultivated are starting to see new growth emerging from the recently- Luis Ayala, Editor and Publisher harvested soil. http://www.linkedin.com/in/rumconsultant

• New Orleans is gearing up for Mardi Do you want to learn more about rum but don’t want Gras as people everywhere are to wait until the next issue of “Got Rum?”? Then slowly attempting to free themselves join the “Rum Lovers Unite!” group on LinkedIn for from winter’s grip. updates, previews, Q&A and exclusive material.

Got Rum? March 2019 - 5 THE ANGEL’S SHARE by Paul Senft

Saint Benevolence Rum

When we think about rum rarely do we think about the charitable endeavors attached to a brand. Recently, while attending the Miami Rum Congress I met Calvin Babcock, owner of the Saint Benevolence rum brand. This soft-spoken gentleman took the time to talk to me about the rum and the charitable endeavors that inspired it. 100% of the profit goes toward charitable efforts in . The town of St. Michel de’ L’Attalaye is the location where most of the charitable works are funded, this has included building much needed infrastructure needs of the community that includes schools, bridges, wells, an orphanage, and a medical clinic. My name is Paul Senft - Rum Reviewer, St. Michel is well known for the Clairin in Tasting host, Judge and Writer. My produces and it is the hope of Mr. Babcock exploration of Rums began by learning to that they will be able to build a distillery for craft Tiki cocktails for friends. I quickly future production of the Saint Benevolence learned that not all rums are created equally and that the uniqueness of the rum line. spirit can be as varied as the locales they Currently, Saint Benevolence rums is a are from. This inspired me to travel with blend of five-year rums from the Dominican my wife around the Caribbean, Central America, and United States visiting Republic and . The rum from the distilleries and learning about how each is made from sugar cane one creates their rums. I have also had juice and distilled using a pot still, while the the pleasure of learning from bartenders, rum from Barbados is molasses based and brand ambassadors, and other enthusiasts distilled using a column still. The rums are from around the world; each one providing aged separately in once used American Oak their own unique point of view, adding Bourbon Barrels for five years. The rum is another chapter to the modern story of transported to Florida, where it is blended rum. to 84 proof and bottled in small batches.

The desire to share this information led me Appearance to create www.RumJourney.com where I share my experiences and reviews in the The rum comes in a tall 750 ml bottle hopes that I would inspire others in their secured with a wooden capped plastic cork. own explorations. It is my wish in the The front and back labels provide the basic pages of “Got Rum?” to be your host and details, including the lot number. For this provide you with my impressions of rums review the bottle came from Lot: 17-04. The available in the world market. Hopefully liquid in the bottle and the glass has a pale my tasting notes will inspire you to try the amber color that when swirled created a rums and make your own opinions. The thin band around the glass. The band spun world is full of good rums and the journey off a wave of fast moving legs, and then as is always best experienced with others. the rum evaporated dropped a few denser Cheers! slower moving legs that left a serious array of beads around the sides of the glass.

Got Rum? March 2019 - 6 Nose

The aroma of the rum is vanilla forward with notes of toasted coconut, black cherries, apricots, with just a hint of oak tannins punctuating the experience.

Palate

Like the aroma, the first sip reveals a vanilla rich flavor that forms the foundation of the rum. Light spice notes of allspice and nutmeg augment the ebb and flow of the vanilla while the coconut and fruit flavors from the aroma create some high notes in the profile. As the primary flavors begin to fade, the wood tannins manifest with a lightly bitter baking chocolate and alcohol notes. These flavors linger in a medium finish.

Review

The immaturity of the rums in the blend makes for a polarizing sipping experience. However, the rum works quite well with other fruit flavors to create a dynamic rum punch or even a tasty daiquiri, which makes me believe it would be a serious bump up for any cocktail recipe calling for a “gold” or immature aged rum ranging between two to six years. Personally I enjoyed the complexity of the blend and found it had a lot of positives going on especially when used in a well-balanced cocktail.

If you would like more information about the Saint Benevolence rum company and their charitable endeavors, please check out their website. I appreciated the level of detail they shared as well as listing where the product can currently be purchased in California and Florida. I will continue to follow their endeavors and keep you updated when they release future products. saintbenevolence.com/rum

Got Rum? March 2019 - 7 THE ANGEL’S SHARE by Paul Senft

Hampden Estate Single Jamaican Rum Nose As I poured the rum in the glass the smell of Founded in Trelawney in 1753 the banana, green apple and lemon zest filled the Hampden Estate by the Sterling family, air. As the aroma settled, I found the aroma Hampden Estate is one of the oldest sugar reminding me of walking through a greenhouse cane processing companies in the country. providing a combination of earthy, floral, By 1779 Archibold Sterling was selling rum and herbal notes all spun together. Overall, out of the first floor of the estates, Great I found it quite pleasant as it was difficult House, and a Jamaican rum legacy was to decipher specific notes beyond mineral born. Over time the estate changed hands rich earth, decaying vegetable matter, fresh and was owned briefly by the government blooming flowers, etc. of Jamaica. That changed in 2009 when the Hussey family purchased the estate and Palate continued producing sugar and rum in the renowned Queen of Spain valley. On the palate the rum provides and initial swirl of the fruit notes from the aroma with the In July of 2018 the Hussey family partnered addition of a strong orange note mid-palate. with La Maison Vellier to manage the The herbaceous notes take over and a note of worldwide distribution of Hampden Estate cooked pineapple and roasted coconut comes rums. They make their rums using molasses into play. The flavors are grounded by strong from the sugar cane they grow on their vegetal flavors combined with graphite, old estate. leather, anise, mushrooms, and roasted nuts. As the rum begins to fade the herbaceous These rums have a reputation for being and fungal notes marry and linger in a nice high ester 100% pot still rums, that uses long finish. local spring water for blending and does not add any color or other additives to their Review products. During fermentation, they prefer to use wild yeast and during distillation use When I received the news that La Maison Vellier a double retort copper pot still. The rums was handling the distribution I was in part used in the blend for this product were aged relieved. This is a company that I am familiar in used American Oak barrels for seven with through the Clairin and Caroni lines and years before being blended to 46% ABV and there was a certain amount of confidence bottled for the global market. that the people involved would take care of one of the crown jewels of Jamaican rums. Appearance As far as this particular product, it met and exceeded all of my expectations. Reasonably In the bottle the rum has a dark amber color priced and with expanding U.S. distribution; I that lightens slightly in the glass. The labels am happy that this rum is easily accessible to on the bottle are loaded with information the U.S. readers as well as obtainable in the about Hampden Estate and the providence European and Australian markets. This rum, of the rum. Agitating the liquid formed a along with the Overproof version, provides thick band around the glass that spun off those who appreciate the flavor dynamics of a wide array of fast moving legs before Jamaican rum an excellent product to explore evaporating and leaving a band of residue and experiment with neat or in cocktails. and beads in their wake.

Got Rum? March 2019 - 8 hampdenrumcompany.com Got Rum? March 2019 -9 [email protected] e don’t charge charge don’t We to see your rum rums. Yourums. don’t please send an send please reviewed here? W waiting for??? waiting fees to review what are you are what even have to have even information, ould youould like advertise. For more email to:email S o... GGotot RRum?um? MarchMarch 20192019 -- 1010 COOKING WITH RUM by Chef Susan Whitley

TM THE UNIVERSITYRum

TM Got Rum?

Hello, my name is Susan Whitley, I am passionate about great foods and beverages. I love finding recipes that incorporate my favorite ingredients and sharing the results with my friends and family.

Through this monthly column I will do my best to inspire you to incorporate the spirit of the tropics into your everyday cooking! [email protected]

GGotot RRum?um? MarchMarch 20192019 -- 1111 Doberge Rum Cake (a New Orleans Classic)

Ingredients - Cake: yolks in a separate bowl. In another separate bowl, sift together the cake flour and baking • 4 Eggs, separated powder. • 3 ½ C. Sifted Cake Flour • 1 Tbsp. Baking Powder Beat 3/4 cup butter, 2 cups sugar, and 1/2 • ¾ C. Butter, room temperature teaspoon salt with an electric mixer in a large • 2 C. White Sugar bowl until light and fluffy. The mixture should • ½ tsp. Salt be noticeably lighter in color. Add reserved • ½ C. Whole milk, room temperature egg yolks one at a time, allowing each yolk to • ½ C. Dark Rum blend into the butter mixture before adding the • 1 tsp. Lemon Juice next. Pour in cake flour mixture alternately with • ½ tsp. Vanilla Extract the ½ cup of milk and the ½ cup of dark rum, • ½ tsp. Rum Extract mixing until just incorporated. Stir lemon juice and ½ teaspoon vanilla extract and ½ teaspoon Ingredients - Custard: rum extract into batter.

• 2 C. White Sugar, divided Whisk beaten egg whites a few times. Use • ½ tsp. Salt a rubber spatula to fold 1/3 of the egg white • ¼ C. All-Purpose Flour mixture into the batter to lighten it. Fold • ¼ C. Cornstarch in remaining egg whites, mixing just until • ¼ C. Unsweetened Cocoa Powder combined. Pour batter evenly into the three • 2 (1 ounce) Squares Bittersweet prepared pans and spread evenly over bottom. Chocolate, chopped • 4 Large Eggs, beaten Bake in preheated oven until cake is light • 3 C. Whole Milk golden brown and just pulling from the sides • 1 C. Dark Rum of the pan, 20 to 25 minutes. Do not overbake. • 1 Tbsp. Butter, room temperature Cool in pans for 5 minutes, then invert onto • ½ tsp. Vanilla Extract cooling racks to cool completely. • ½ tsp. Dark Rum To make custard: combine 1 1/2 cups sugar, 1/2 Ingredients - Buttercream Frosting: teaspoon salt, 1/4 cup flour, cornstarch, and 1/4 cup cocoa powder in a saucepan and mix well. • 1 C. Butter, softened In a separate bowl, whisk remaining 1/2 cup • 3 C. Confectioners’ Sugar, sifted sugar into 4 beaten eggs. Pour 3 cups whole • 1 C. Unsweetened Cocoa Powder, milk into saucepan and cook over medium heat, sifted stirring constantly, until mixture begins to boil. • ½ tsp. Vanilla Extract Remove from heat, add the one cup of dark rum • ½ tsp. Rum Extract and gradually pour hot milk/rum mixture into • 1 Tbsp. Hot Water (optional) egg mixture, whisking constantly. Add chopped chocolate and stir until chocolate melts. Ingredients - Ganache: Return custard to saucepan and cook, stirring • 2 C. Semisweet Chocolate Chips constantly, over medium heat until mixture has • 2 C. Heavy Whipping Cream thickened, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat; • 1 tsp Vanilla Extract stir in 1 tablespoon butter, ½ tablespoon vanilla • 1 tsp. Rum Extract extract and ½ tablespoon rum extract. Transfer custard to a bowl and allow to cool. Directions: To make buttercream frosting: place 1 cup Preheat oven to 350°F and then grease softened butter in a mixing bowl. Gradually three 9-inch cake pans. beat in 3 cups sifted confectioners’ sugar. Beat in 1 cup sifted cocoa powder. Mix in ½ Beat 4 egg whites in a mixing bowl until teaspoon vanilla extract and ½ rum extract to foamy. Continue to beat until stiff peaks make a smooth frosting. Note: If the frosting form and then set aside. Reserve the egg

GGotot RRum?um? MarchMarch 20192019 -- 1212 is too stiff, add a tablespoon of hot water drizzling it very slowly into the mixture and mix well until desired consistency is reached.

To make ganache: place chocolate chips in a large mixing bowl. Heat heavy cream in a saucepan until very hot, but not boiling. Remove from heat and pour over the chocolate chips. Let stand for 3 minutes, then whisk, scraping sides and bottom of the bowl, until smooth. Stir in 1 teaspoons vanilla extract and 1 teaspoon of rum extract. Allow to cool to room temperature, cover, and set aside. Ganache should be spreadable and not firm.

To assemble cake: gently slice each cake layer in half horizontally (use a long serrated knife). Cover cake plate with strips of parchment paper or foil for easier clean up. Put a dab of buttercream in the center of the plate to keep cake from shifting. Set a cake half on the plate.

Spread custard filling onto cake layer, taking care not to spread it too close to the edge (weight of the cake layers will cause it to spread out). Gently lay another cake on top of the first and repeat process with another custard layer. Repeat same process with remaining layers of cake and custard, topping custard with the last cake layer. Chill cake for 30 minutes to allow it to firm up.

Frost top and sides of cake with chocolate buttercream. Chill for 30 minutes, to firm and set.

Spread frosted cake with ganache. Remove parchment strips or aluminum foil from cake plate. Store cake in refrigerator.

Photo credit: www.allrecipes.com

GGotot RRum?um? MarchMarch 20192019 -- 1313 Fermentation Primer Lesson III

Got Rum? March 2019 - 14 Got Rum? March 2019 - 15 Fermentation Primer - Lesson III In last month’s lesson we discussed how inefficient alcohol fermentation is at producing energy from sugar, versus consuming it for cell growth and reproduction. We also touched on why yeast may have evolved this ability, as a survival strategy and also explained how glucose is converted into pyruvate.

Q: So, what happens to pyruvate within the yeast? Pyruvate can be processed by the yeast in one of two ways:

1. In the presence of Oxygen (under aerobic conditions) it enters the Citric Acid/Krebs Cycle or

2. In the absence of Oxygen (under anaerobic conditions) it enters the Alcohol Fermentation Pathway

This Lesson focuses on the aerobic option and Lesson IV will explore the anaerobic one.

In order for pyruvate, the product of glycolysis, to enter the next pathway, it must undergo several changes. The conversion is a three-step process.

1. A carboxyl group is removed from pyruvate, releasing a molecule of carbon dioxide into the surrounding medium. The result of this step is a two-carbon hydroxyethyl group bound to the enzyme (pyruvate dehydrogenase). This is the first of the six carbons from the original glucose molecule to be removed. This step proceeds twice (remember: there are two pyruvate molecules produced at the end of glycolysis) for every molecule of glucose metabolized; thus, two of the six carbons will have been removed at the end of both steps.

2. The hydroxyethyl group is oxidized to an acetyl group, and the electrons are picked up by NAD+, forming NADH. The high- energy electrons from NADH will be used later to generate ATP.

3. The enzyme-bound acetyl group is transferred to CoA, producing a molecule of acetyl CoA.

Got Rum? JanuaryMarch 2019 2019 - -16 16 In the presence of oxygen, acetyl CoA delivers its acetyl group to a four- carbon molecule, oxaloacetate, to form citrate, a six-carbon molecule with three carboxyl groups; this pathway will harvest the remainder of the extractable energy from what began as a glucose molecule. This single pathway is called by different names: the citric acid cycle (for the first intermediate formed—citric acid, or citrate—when acetate joins to the oxaloacetate), the TCA cycle (since citric acid or citrate and isocitrate are tricarboxylic acids), and the Krebs cycle, after Hans Krebs, who first identified the steps in the pathway in the 1930s in pigeon flight muscles.

The Citric Acid Cycle / Krebs Cycle Like the conversion of pyruvate to acetyl CoA, the citric acid cycle takes place in the matrix of mitochondria. Almost all of the enzymes of the citric acid cycle are soluble, with the single exception of the enzyme succinate dehydrogenase, which is embedded in the inner membrane of the mitochondrion.

Unlike glycolysis, the citric acid cycle is a closed loop: the last part of the pathway regenerates the compound used in the first step. The eight steps of the cycle are a series of redox, dehydration, hydration and decarboxylation reactions that produce two carbon dioxide molecules, one GTP/ATP and reduced forms of NADH and FADH2 (see diagram on the right). This is considered an aerobic pathway because the NADH and FADH2 produced must transfer their electrons to the next pathway in the system, which will use oxygen. If this transfer does not occur, the oxidation steps of the citric acid cycle also do not occur.

Note that the citric acid cycle produces very little ATP directly and does not directly consume oxygen.

Join us again next month, as we continue our deep-dive into this fascinating world!

Source: Creative Commons (creativecommons.org) and Khan Academy (khanacademy.org)

GotGot R um?Rum? January March 2019 - 17 THE MUSE OF MIXOLOGY by Cris Dehlavi

THE LAST WORD, WITH RUM!

Many years ago I was at a seminar where a very well-known bartender encouraged a large group of up and comers to look at classic cocktails and think about switching out the base spirit for a different one. For some bartenders this is a really tough concept but I embraced the challenge and have been doing it ever since. I love using a reposado tequila in an old fashioned, or bourbon in a margarita…… gin in a Hemingway daiquiri or in this case, RUM in a Last Word.

The Last Word is a Prohibition era cocktail that was originally created at My name is Cris Dehlavi and I am a native the Detroit Athletic Club. There was a of Arizona, but have lived in Columbus, Ohio time when it lost its popularity but came for the past 13 years with my daughter, Desi. back full force in the early 2000’s and I have been running the bar program at “M”, has gone strong ever since. It is quite of the Cameron Mitchell Restaurant group simple when you look at it on paper: since 2005. I am currently the President of 4 equal parts, shaken and poured Columbus USBG as well as a consultant for straight up -- Gin, Green Chartreuse, bars and restaurants nationally. Luxardo Maraschino, and Fresh lime juice. But if any of you have tasted In 2013, I attended the rigorous B.A.R. 5 Green Chartreuse or Luxardo, you Day Spirits Certification and have been know immediately that this drink is recognized as one of the top mixologists in anything but simple. Green Chartreuse the U.S.A. I am one of the senior managers is a liqueur made of 130 alpine herbs of the prestigious apprentice program at by the Carthusian Monks (since Tales of the Cocktail and work as a mentor 1605!!) and at 110 proof it can be very to many bartenders around Ohio. overpowering in certain cocktails. (That

My contribution to Got Rum ? magazine will include everything from reviews of national cocktail events, articles on mixology, garnish trends, recipes and techniques, to interviews with some of the leading bartenders in the industr y.

Got Rum? March 2019 - 18 Got Rum? March 2019 - 19 is a whole other article!) It is sweet, herbaceous, and extremely complex in its flavor profile. It is a beautiful spirit and there is absolutely nothing else like it on the market. Luxardo Maraschino is also an iconic spirit, distilled since 1821, and made from Marasca cherries. It is clear in color but has an intense cherry aroma and taste. It too can be very “greedy” in cocktails but used properly it totally transforms any drink it is used in.

So, my unique take on the Last Word is to substitute the gin for RUM. We all know that rum is a vast category and although gin is thought of as a vegetal, sometimes savory spirit, rum can do the same. Because of the beautiful color of the Green Chartreuse, I think it is best to use a white rum, but I choose one with a punch of flavor like Banks 5 or Brugal.

Do NOT put a high proof rum like Wray and Nephew in it…….not only will it overpower all of the other flavors but you will end up with a drink much too high octane to enjoy. The beauty of the Last Word is that all of the ingredients WORK together, and somehow, the end result is a lovely well balanced cocktail.

THE RUM LAST WORD

• 1 oz. Banks 5 White Rum • 1 oz. Green Chartreuse • 1 oz. Luxardo Maraschino • 1 oz. Fresh Lime Juice

Combine all ingredients in a shaker with ice and shake well. Strain into a martini glass, garnish with a lime twist and a Luxardo cherry.

Cris

Got Rum? March 2019 - 20 Got Rum? March 2019 - 21 Got Rum? March 2019 - 22 Obituary Cocktail - The Great Saloons of New Orleans

(Publisher’s Review): There is no doubt that New Orleans has more drinking establishments per capita than any other city in the United States. Lavishly illustrated with more than 200 photographs, this elegant pictorial history provides a glimpse into the architectural and cultural treasures still operating today. From urban legends to classic recipes, all is revealed in this collection of fascinating true stories.

From the Inside Flap:

“A collection of sumptuous, atmospheric images of the city’s most famous taverns, [Obituary Cocktail] relates the history of the city itself through drink, an essential ingredient of New Orleans culture. . . . Informative and lovely, Obituary Cocktail is a treat for those who appreciate the fine art of drinking a smart cocktail in distinguished profound sense of beauty, a quick and true surroundings. “ apprehension of the social, historical, and -Christina Masciere, New Orleans even mythological context of everything Magazine she sees.” - Tom Piazza, author, Blues and Trouble “Kerri McCaffety possesses an extraordinary eye and sensibility for the “McCaffety’s prints are startling, but for character of place. Her photographic reasons having to do with dusky formal studies of the Napoleon House resonate reductions we usually associate with the with an intimacy, as if they were taken from early photo-romantics Steichen, Genthe, or inside the object looking out rather than Imogen Cunningham. ... A stationary ballet outside looking in. She has mastery over of elegantly undulating luminosity.” not only the technique of the photographic - D. Eric Bookhardt, Gambit art but its soul as well. “ -Michael Sartisky, president, Louisiana Hardcover: 144 pages Endowment for the Humanities Publisher: Pelican Publishing (October 25, 2011) “Her academic training in anthropology Language: English has lent to her lifetime training in the craft ISBN-13: 978-1455615841 of photography, and to her natural and

Got Rum? March 2019 - 23 In Association With

2019 5-Day Rum Course

Ranked #20 of Top 100 Places That Will Change Your Life by

Got Rum? March 2019 - 24 The International Leaders in Rum Training and Consulting

www.RumUniversity.com

CONGRATULATIONS TO THE 2019 GRADUATES! The future of rum is in your hands!

“Education is the passport to the future, for tomorrow belongs to those who prepare for it today.” Malcolm X

Got Rum? March 2019 - 25 In Association With

Comments from some of the 2019 graduates:

If you want to understand rum A to Z, this course is for you. I would highly recommend this course John F. to anyone wanting a Excellent. Worth the great foundation in the price/investment. rum field.

Jim M. Garret G.

Excellent. Luis & If you are planning Margaret have lots of on making rum, take experience and knowledge this course. It will put and are always ready to If you’re serious you in a great position give more information. about opening a rum to have a successful distillery please take business. Eduardo P. this class, there is so much more to learn Richard S. than you already know.

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Got Rum? March 2019 - 26 The International Leaders in Rum Training and Consulting

www.RumUniversity.com

An experience like no other! Definitely take Unparalleled. The it if you would like to knowledge and expand your appreciation and knowledge of rum. experience blew me away. If you are Julie S. thinking about Waluco M. making rum, take this class first!

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Don’t miss this class If you are new to or you will always be distilling or thinking second in the industry about getting into this and second in the industry, this class is for market! you! Eric O. Naomi A.

Got Rum? March 2019 - 27 In Association With

Next Public 5-Day Rum Course: 2020

Did you miss out on this year’s course? Don’t let it happen again!

Visit gotrum.com and sign up to receive notifications for future Rum University Courses.

Got Rum? March 2019 - 28 Got Rum? March 2019 - 28 The International Leaders in Rum Training and Consulting www.RumUniversity.com

Got Rum? March 2019 - 29 Got Rum? March 2019 - 29 GGotot RRum?um? MarchMarch 20192019 -- 3030 www.RumCentral.com

GGotot RRum?um? MarchMarch 2019 - 31 THE RUM BIOGRAPHY www.RumUniversity.com

RUM

Got Rum? March 2019 - 32 he rum industry owes its present success to many people who, through their vision, wisdom, ingenuity and/or dedication, were able to innovate T or improve existing processes. In this new series we will explore these individuals, to honor their memories and to –hopefully- inspire a new generation of game-changers.

Featured Biography: Eduard Alois Buchner

Early Life

Eduard Alois Buchner was born on May 20th, 1860 in Munich, Germany into a prosperous family. His father was Ernst Buchner, a physician and professor of forensic medicine at Munich’s Ludwig Maximilian University. His mother was Frederike Martin, the daughter of a treasurer to the royal court.

Aged 18, Eduard Buchner completed a spell in the Army in 1878, and also began working very hard to become scientifically knowledgeable. He studied and worked in a number of fields simultaneously.

He studied science at the Ludwig Maximilian University from 1877- 1883, while also working as an intern for the eminent chemist Emil Erlenmeyer at Munich’s Technical University from 1878-1881. Moreover, he worked in a jam-making and canning business, and also studied fungi and the influence of oxygen on fermentation processes at the Carl Wilhelm von Nägeli botanical institute from 1882-1884 under the direction of his brother Hans.

Buchner’s Scientific Pursuit

In 1884, Buchner began postgraduate chemistry work directed by the future Nobel Prize winner Adolf von Baeyer. In 1885, he published his first paper on fermentation: The influence of oxygen on fermentations.

Buchner was awarded a Ph.D. by the University of Munich in 1888. In 1891, his thesis on synthesis of pyrazole, pyrazoline and trimethylene derivatives and a lecture on The Chemical Processes in Fermentation allowed him to qualify as a lecturer. In fact, Buchner was the first person to synthesize pyrazole. In 1893, Buchner became a lecturer at the University of Kiel.

In 1896, at the age of 36, Buchner became Extraordinary Professor for Analytical and Pharmaceutical Chemistry at the University of Tübingen. There he began the work on alcoholic fermentation without yeast cells, for which he is most famous today.

Got Rum? March 2019 - 33 Path to the Nobel Prize in Chemistry

In 1898, he was appointed to the chair of chemistry at the Agricultural College of Berlin. He also directed the Institute for fermentation, continuing his cell-free fermentation studies.

In 1903, Buchner summarized his discoveries in the book Die Zymasegärung written with coauthors Martin Hahn and his brother Hans Buchner.

Buchner demonstrated that chemicals extracted from dead yeast, containing no living cells, could convert sugar to alcohol. He called this extract “yeast-juice” and his book meticulously detailed the experiments involving it.

According to Buchner’s findings, the fermentation process did not require life! Instead it required the activity of chemicals called enzymes. This was a very important discovery because it established that biochemical reactions are possible outside living cells. Up until this point, it was believed that the yeast cells themselves were responsible for the transformation of fermentable sugars into alcohol.

Faced with a previous unknown Buchner name it zymase, a word derived from the Greek zumē which means to “leaven”.

In 1907, at the age of 47, Buchner was awarded the Nobel Prize in Chemistry for his “biochemical researches and his discovery of cell-free fermentation.”

During his Nobel lecture in 1907, Buchner stated that:

“The active agent in the expressed yeast juice appears rather to be a chemical substance, an enzyme, which I have called zymase. From now on, one can experiment with this just as with other chemicals.”

Got Rum? March 2019 - 34 “We are seeing the cells of plants and animals more and more clearly as chemical factories, where the various products are manufactured in separate workshops. The enzymes act as the overseers.”

Late Life

In August 1900, at the age of 40, Buchner married Lotte Stahl, the 24-year-old daughter of a Tübingen professor. The couple had four children: Friedel, Hans, Rudolf and Luise. World War 1 began in 1914, and by 1915 Buchner, aged 55, had become a Major in a transport unit. In 1916, he was exempted from military duties and resumed his academic studies. When America entered the war in 1917, Buchner volunteered again to serve in the . On August 11, 1917, he was badly wounded while serving in Focsani, Romania.

Eduard Buchner died at the age of 57, on August 13, 1917 in Focsani, Romania from wounds received in military service and was buried at Focsani’s military cemetery. He was survived by his wife and his three oldest children.

Modern Views About Zymase

Despite being groundbreaking at the time (enough to win Buchner a Nobel Prize), the discovery of zymase quickly became obsolete, as science better understood the role of enzymes in fermentation. Today we refer to this process by different names: TCA Cyle, Citric Acid Cycle or Krebs Cycle (read Fermentation Primer Part III - page 14). Zymase, originally thought to be a single enzyme, turned out to be a complex of eight different ones, all collaborating in the production of ethanol: Aconitase, Isocirate dehydrogenase, α-ketoglutarate dehydrogenase, Succinyl-CoA synthetase, Succinic dehydrogenase, Fumarase, Malate dehydrogenase and Citrate syntase.

So, if science has identified all the enzymes needed to carry out fermentation, why are we still using yeast? The answer is that yeast remain the fastest, least expensive way to create the required enzymes! Through evolution, yeast varieties have developed and adapted their NDA to create the enzymes and to use them efficiently, in order to achieve their (and our) desired goal!

Did you know that...

• ... the Buchner Filter and Buchner Flask are NOT named after Eduard Buchner? They are named after another famous German chemist: Ernst Büchner! • ... Enzymes are vital for life and serve a wide range of important functions in the body, such as aiding in digestion and metabolism. • ... Some enzymes help break large molecules into smaller pieces that are more easily absorbed by the body. Other enzymes help bind two molecules together to produce a new molecule. Enzymes are highly selective catalysts, meaning that each enzyme only speeds up a specific reaction. • ... The molecules that an enzyme works with are called substrates. The substrates bind to a region on the enzyme called the active site. Once the substrates bind to the active site of the enzyme, the reactions occur extremely quickly. The chemical reactions result in a new product or molecule that then separates from the enzyme, which goes on to catalyze other reactions.

Got Rum? March 2019 - 35 Marco THEPierini RU - MR umHISTORIAN Historian by Marco Pierini

AND IF IT WERE THE FRENCH y name is Marco Pierini, I was born in 1954 in a little town in Tuscany (Italy) CARIBBEAN THE FIRST CRADLE OF M where I still live. RUM?

I got a degree in Philosophy in Florence and I studied Political Science in Madrid, but 5. SAILOR, SOLDIER, WRITER, my real passion has always been history. FRAY: JEAN BAPTISTE DU TERTRE Through history I have always tried to know the world. Life brought me to work in tourism, event organization and vocational training. One of the biggest pleasures of historic Then I discovered rum. I cofounded La Casa research is the discovery of some del Rum, that ran a beach bar and selected fascinating figures of the past. One of premium rums. these is surely the French missionary Jean Baptiste Du Tertre, or Dutertre. Du Tertre And finally I have returned back to my initial was born in Calais, France, in 1610 and in passion: history, but now it is the history his youth he served in the Dutch army and of rum. Because rum is not only a great in the Dutch navy, before hearing the call distillate, it’s a world. Produced in scores of the faith and entering the Dominican of countries, by thousands of companies, order in 1635. with an extraordinary variety of aromas and flavors; it has a terrible and fascinating According to Doris Garraway in “The history, made of slaves and pirates, imperial Libertine Colony” (2005) “That same year, fleets and revolutions. four Dominican missionaries, including Raymond Breton, departed for Guadeloupe All this I try to cover in this column, in my FB at the request of Richelieu and members profile: www.facebook/marco.pierini.3 and in of the new Company of the Islands of my new Blog: www.therumhistorian.com America. Due to the ill preparedness

I have published a book on Amazon: of the expedition, disease, and famine, only Father Breton remained after five “AMERICAN RUM - A Short History of Rum years. To relieve him, Du Tertre traveled in Early America”. to Guadeloupe in 1640 with two other

Got Rum? March 2019 - 36 Jean Baptiste du Tertre, Sugar Mill in Martinica. Bibliothèque Nationale de France, 1667-1671. missionaries during that island’s grueling it is used in making spice bread in Europe. war with the Indians. Returning briefly I have also seen it boiled together with to France in 1642 to request aid for the ouicou which renders a drink even stronger mission, Du Tertre remained in Guadeloupe than the best Flemish beer. As for the until political differences with the governor crushed cane, it is fed to the pigs which forced him to leave in 1647.” fattens them and gives the meat and lard an excellent flavor. The juice from crushed So Du Tertre visited the French Caribbean sugar cane which isn’t tipped quickly settlement from 1640 to 1647. He is enough into the boiling cauldrons, goes relatively well known among rum history’s sour immediately, and when this is mixed enthusiasts, because it is commonly with water the preparation is called vesou, believed that we owe him the first clear which also sells well on the islands. All and exhaustive description of rum these little tricks contribute significantly production in the French Caribbean, to a well-run sugar plantation.” (translated contained in his much quoted “Histoire by Bernie Mandelblatt in her seminal essay générale des habitées par les “Atlantic consumption of French Rum and Francois ...” published in 1667. Here it is: Brandy and the economic growth in the Seventeenth- and Eighteenth- Century “Neither the crushed cane nor the scum Caribbean” 2011) that is removed from the second and third sugar boiling cauldrons is useless. The Further on in the book, Du Tertre writes scum is reserved in a trough where it is that the French settlers living in the kept to make eau-de-vie, or brandy. The islands are very hospitable and offer slaves prepare an intoxicating drink from visitors “vin et eau de vie”, “wine and water it, and it sells quite well on the islands; of life”. Then, speaking about the slaves, sugar syrups also sells quite well because he writes:

Got Rum? March 2019 - 37 years after his last voyage. Therefore, sadly, it can’t be used as a sure, reliable, historic source proving without doubts the existence of rum production in the French Caribbean in the 1640s. That is what we are trying to demonstrate with this series of articles.

And yet …

Proceeding with my research into the early French colonization of the Caribbean, I discovered that Jean Baptiste Du Tertre had previously written a first, shorter, relation of his voyages immediately after his return to France in 1647. This first book circulated in manuscript form for some years among his circles of relations. In 1654 he decided to publish the book. The reason for this early publication is very interesting; actually, we found ourselves in the middle of a real XVII century’s literary intrigue. Let’s read again Doris Garraway’s book, “Back in France, he [Du Tertre] circulated his historical manuscript among friends and supporters such as the illustrious Achilles de Harlay, “L’on ne leur donne à boire de l’eau de vie, chief financial administrator of the que lors qu’on les oblige à qualque travail company and longtime counselor to the rude, ou quand ils replantent le Tabac au king. According to his preface of 1654, fort de la pluie. L’Eau de vie estant un peu Du Tertre resolved to publish the work plus commune dans les Isles, depuis que following the mysterious disappearance l’on y fait du , par le secret qu’on a of one early draft. His Histoire trouvé d’en faire avec l’escume qu’on tire générale des isles de Christophe, de la des chauderies ....” That means, more or Guadeloupe, et le Martinique et autres less, appeared in 1654. Four years later César de Rochefort’s Histoire naturelle “They are not given water of life to drink, et morale des iles Antilles de l’Amérique except when they are obliged to do very was published anonymously in Rotterdam hard work, or when they are planting and thereafter carried the stigma of tobacco under pouring rain. Water of plagiarism from Du Tertre’s lost copy. life has been a bit more common on the Accusing Rochefort of inauthenticity and islands since sugar started to be produced misrepresentation, Du Tertre produced there, thanks to the secret which has been an expanded second edition of his work discovered of making it from the skimming based on research carried out during taken from the cauldrons …” his final visit to the colonies in 1656- Let’s pay attention to the timing. Du Tertre 57. Published from 1667 to 1671, the travelled to the French Caribbean from Histoire générale des Antilles habitées 1640 to 1647 and he described sugar cane par los Francois became a reference for cultivation, sugar production and rum all subsequent historians of the French production as an ordinary part of the life Caribbean.” and work of the French settlers. But he got In this first book, as I have said written back to the Caribbean again in 1656/57 after his return in 1647 and published and published this book only in 1667, ten

Got Rum? March 2019 - 38 in 1654, we find a large and detailed the 1640s at the latest, French colonists description of the technicalities of grew sugarcane on a regular basis sugarcane cultivation and of sugar and produced sugar. Besides, with the production. A complex, difficult, little by-products of sugar production they known skill, Du Tertre writes, a veritable produced a fermented beverage that industrial secret which the French called vin de canne (cane wine) and also settlers at the beginning found it hard a strong distilled beverage that they to master. But sometimes good fortune called eau de vie de canne (cane water lends a hand: of life), our Rum.

“Monsier de Poincy l’à eu par hazard; car Finally, we know that nothing of un sucrier Portugais homme fort expert sugarcane is thrown away, but here is qui le servait, ayant commis quelque an example of usage which would never crime pour lequel il devoit estre pendu; have occurred to me: Monsieur de Poincy lui donna fay grace, à condition qu’il enseigneroit son secret “Au reste, c’’est la meilleure commodité à un de ses domestiques; ce qu’il fit, & du monde, que ces Cannes de sucre depuis on fait quantité de tres-beau & pour les passans; car on en prend tres-fin sucre à saint Christophe.” That tousiours deux ou trois, qui vous servent means, as usual more or less, de b°ton par le chemin, & lors que vous estes fatigué du voyage, & alteré par “Monsier de Poincy got it by chance; les chaleurs, en vous reposant vous because a highly skilled Portuguese mangez une partie de vôtre bàton, qui sugar producer who served him had vous rafraischit d’une eau de sucre fort committed a crime for which he was agreable.” sentenced to hang; Monsieur de Poincy granted him a reprieve on condition “Besides, these sugarcanes are very that he taught his secret to one of his handy to wayfarers, because you can servants. He did, and since then a great take two or three and use them as a quantity of very nice, very fine sugar has walking stick, and when you are weary of been produced on Saint Christophe.” walking, and thirsty because of the heat, while you rest you can eat part of your Monsier de Poincy was Phillippe de walking stick, which will refresh you very Longvilliers de Poincy (1584–1660) a agreeable sugary water.” nobleman and a member of the Order of the Knights of Malta. He governed the island of Saint Christopher from 1639 to POST SCRIPTUM his death in 1660. As I have already written, unfortunately And here we find, at last, what we have I have never studied French and I don’t been looking for: speak it. Moreover, these texts are “On tire encore une autre tres-grande written in XVII century’s French, which utilité du sucre de ces Cannes; car on is different from contemporary French. en fait des eaux de vie tres-excellents, However, it is a neo-Latin language lesquelles se vendent fort cher dans le so, with the help of some dictionaries pays.” and great effort I can read it and, hopefully, grasp the essential meaning. “Another great bounty is obtained from If any readers should find errors or this sugarcane; because from it excellent inaccuracies, please let me know and I water of life is produced, which is sold at will be happy to make corrections. a high price in the country.” Marco Pierini A brief description of the fermentation and distillation process follows. Therefore, according to Du Tertre, in

Got Rum? March 2019 - 39 in New Orleans

Got Rum? March 2019 - 40 GGotot RRum?um? MarchMarch 2019 - 41 The origins of Mardi Gras can be traced to medieval Europe, passing through Rome and Venice in the 17th and 18th centuries to the French House of the Bourbons. From here, the traditional revelry of “Boeuf Gras,” or fatted calf, followed France to her colonies.

New Orleans today is famous worldwide for its Mardi Gras celebration, but the city has much more to offer. So, if you are planning to be in The Big Easy during this festive occasion, you may want to consider a few more activities. So let’s explore a few options.

See A Parade Uptown On St. Charles Avenue

Most people from outside of New Orleans think Mardi Gras and they think the French Quarter. While many of the parades travel by the French Quarter on Canal Street, some of the best spots to see the parades aren’t anywhere near the Vieux Carre.

Instead head Uptown and enjoy a parade or two traveling down St. Charles like a local. The crowds are a little bit more manageable, plus it’s a more welcoming atmosphere and family friendly.

Any spot along St. Charles is a great place to see a parade, but some of our favorite spots Uptown are at the intersection of St. Charles and Napoleon Avenues or in the Garden District around Washington Avenue.

Visit Jackson Square

Of course, there’s more to see and do in New Orleans than the parades. The most photographed spot in the Big Easy and maybe the world is Jackson Square. It’s a beautiful park that mixes the history with the excitement that makes New Orleans. Take a break here, take lots of photos and peruse the artists that line the perimeter of the park.

Stop In Café Du Monde

Kitty corner to the park is the establishment called Café Du Monde. It’s one of

GGotot RRum?um? MarchMarch 20192019 -- 4242 those spots that you just have to check off before you can leave. Stop there to get a New Orleans favorite called beignets, which makes for a perfect parade day breakfast or really a delicious snack anytime. Of course pick up a coffee with chicory or a coffee au lait in order to stay caffeinated all day long.

Shop The French Market

Just down the street from Café Du Monde is the French Market. It’s a farmers/ flea market where you can find everything from local treats to the perfect souvenir to bring home and just about everything else in between. This is another great spot to find the work of local artists.

Explore Frenchmen Street

Frenchmen Street is the local’s favorite lined with restaurants, jazz bars and more. Marigny Brasseire is a great place to start out the evening with a meal of local seafood and farm produce. Then head down to any of the many places that feature live music every night for an amazing concert put on by talented local musicians like Kermit Ruffins and Ellis Marsallis.

Take a Cemetery Tour of New Orleans

Ok, so this one is a bit weird, but hey, that’s New Orleans. One of the top tourist attractions in the city of New Orleans are the cemeteries.

Take a Swamp Tour

A popular activity in New Orleans is to take a Swamp Tour, perhaps popularized by modern-era TV shows that depict the way of life of “swamp people”.

Visit Vue House

If you’re looking for something a little different to do in New Orleans, and love historic properties, then a visit to Longue Vue House and Gardens should definitely be near the top of your list.

Go on a Steamboat River Cruise

Take a Steamboat Cruise on the mighty Mississippi River, aboard the Steamboat Natchez, which is the only steam powered river cruise operating out of New Orleans, and one of only two steam powered sternwheel boats on the entire Mississippi River.

Eat King Cake

Ok, onto serious topics. When you’re in New Orleans for Mardi Gras, you basically have to eat King Cake. This is a brioche style dough covered in sugar, with the twist being that there’s a figurine of a baby inside. The theory goes that whoever finds the baby in their slice of cake, has to throw the next party.

And last, but not least: make new friends and have a great time! Just remember that you’re a visitor and rules/laws exist for a reason, so stick to them.

Cheers and laissez les bon temps rouler!

GGotot RRum?um? MarchMarch 2019 - 43 THE ORIGINAL HURRICANE Ingredients: Procedure: • 2 Oz. Light Rum • In a cocktail shaker filled with ice, • 2 Oz. Dark Rum squeeze the juice from half a lime. • 2 Oz. Passion Fruit Juice • Pour the remaining ingredients into • 1 Oz. Orange Juice the shaker. • 1/2 Lime • Shake well, until the outside of the • 1 Tbsp Simple Syrup shaker tin becomes frosty. • 1 Tbsp Grenadine • Strain into a hurricane glass. • Garnish: Maraschino Cherry and an • Garnish with the cherry and orange Orange Slice slice.

GGotot RRum?um? MarchMarch 20192019 -- 4444 The craft distillation industry is alive and well in the Pelican State! In 2018, Distillery Trail (distillerytrail.com) reported 10 registered distilleries. That number has now increased to 18.

How many can you visit in a single road trip?

Atelier Vie 1001 S Broad St, New Orleans, Louisiana 70125

Baton Rouge Distilling 11616 Industriplex Blvd Suite 21, Baton Rouge, Louisiana 70809

Bayou Rum Distillery 20909 Frontage Road, Lacassine, Louisiana 70650

Cajun Spirits Distillery 2532 Poydras St, New Orleans, Louisiana 70119

Cane Land Distilling 760 St Philip St, Baton Rouge, Louisiana 70802

Celebration Distillation 2815 Frenchmen St., New Orleans, Louisiana 70122

Happy Raptor Distilling (Opening Spring 2019) New Orleans, Louisiana

Louisiana Lightning 110 Southwest Central Avenue, Amite City, Louisiana 70422

Lula Restaurant Distillery 1532 Saint Charles Avenue, New Orleans, Louisiana 70130

NOLA Distilling 3715 Tchoupitoulas St., New Orleans, Louisiana 70115

Porchjam Distillery 3918 Gravier St., New Orleans, Louisiana 70119

Rank Wildcat Spirits 619 Bonin Road, Lafayette, Louisiana 70508

River Road Distillery 2151 Kliebert Road, Paulina, Louisiana 70763

Roulaison Distilling 2727 S Broad Ave Suite #103, New Orleans, Louisiana 70125

Seven Three Distilling Co. 301 North Claiborne Avenue, New Orleans, Louisiana 70112

Sugarfield Spirits Co. (Coming 2019) Gonzales, Louisiana 70737

GGotot RRum?um? MarchMarch 2019 - 45 MarcoTHE P ieriniCOC K- TAILRum HSCIENTISTistorian By Joel Lackovich

Hello, my name is Joel Lackovich. I first became a Rum aficionado while bartending at the legendary Washington DC hotspot, NATION, in the late 90’s. Serving hundreds of patrons each night, I always held a special place in my heart for Rum, whether I grabbed a bottle from the rail or from the top shelf.

Today, with over 20 years of experience in the field of life sciences, and degrees in Biotechnology, Chemistry, and Microbiology from the University of Florida, and an MBA from the Jack Welch Management Institute, I bring a unique blend of both science and human perspective to how I look at Rum, and the cocktails we all enjoy. The ingredients, the preparation, and the physical properties that constitute a Rum cocktail fascinate me. I hope you enjoy my column where I dissect a different Rum cocktail each month and explore its wonder.

Joel Lackovich ([email protected])

Got Rum? March 2019 - 46 ackovich hoto Joel by L P

THE CLASSIC DAIQUIRI

INTRODUCTION

The Classic Daiquiri is a timeless cocktail that has been enjoyed throughout the ages. The drink has been influenced by government officials, famous authors, celebrated engineers, and Hollywood starlets over the years. Walk into a restaurant bar today, and you will likely find a Daiquiri on the drink menu.

However, as popular as the Daiquiri has become, no other cocktail has been more galvanized and victimized. Did the Daiquiri prevent the spread of Malaria once upon a time? Or is the Daiquiri, and its many trendy high caloric sugar formulations, contributing to global obesity?

Regardless of history and perception, the Daiquiri is an enjoyable cocktail and a favorite to many. And although simple to construct, its scientific profile is complex and inspiring.

Got Rum? March 2019 - 47 MATERIALS & METHODS Malaria in 18th century , as well as reduce fever? Indeed, it may Rum – 2 oz. Light White Rum have been thought to have medicinal Fresh Lime Juice – 1 oz. properties. Charles H. Baker, the author Simple Syrup – 0.5 oz. of The Gentleman’s Companion, wrote that Rum was added to drinking water Mix all ingredients together in a shaker, during the Colonial era to help prevent the and shake vigorously. spread of germs, and lime juice was later Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. added to make it tolerable to the taste (1). Garnish with ½ lime slice. Unfortunately, for the colonists, Malaria is neither a virus nor bacteria that could DISCUSSION be easily wiped out by Rum. Malaria is a The Daiquiri truly has a Yin and Yang mosquito-borne parasitic disease spread reputation. Did the cocktail evolve from by mosquitoes, that multiplies in blood, and a concoction construed to help prevent you cannot catch it from drinking water. Although Rum is not an anti-malarial agent, it is likely that the Daiquiri did evolve from a healthy concoction to combat Scurvy: the Navy Grog. The “Grog”, as it is commonly referred to today, was a cocktail developed during Colonial times which was often made by mixing rum, lemon juice, sugar, and water, and originally served to British sailors in the 18th century (2). Thanks to the strong citrus components of the drink, it was known to help sailors fend off Scurvy. However, when you substitute in lime juice for lemon juice you lose a significant amount of Vitamin C. In fact, lemons contain about 40 milligrams of vitamin C per 100 grams of flesh, which equates to about 25 milligrams of the vitamin in a medium-sized lemon, and limes contain a little less than 30 milligrams of vitamin C per 100 grams of flesh, which equates to about 8 milligrams of the vitamin in a medium-sized lime (3). The result is that serving a Daiquiri instead of a Grog influences the efficacy negatively, so less Vitamin C unfortunately means many sailors learned the hard way.

While the classic Daiquiri is simple to make, the ingredients of the cocktail are fascinating, and together add to an incredible taste profile and experience! Obviously, nutritional information can vary depending on the addition or subtraction of key ingredients and volumes, as Daiquiri enthusiasts love to experiment with new adaptations of the traditional drink. The Strawberry Daiquiri and the Hemingway Daiquiri are two modern variations of the classic Daiquiri. In fact, substitute high fructose corn syrup for sugar and increase the cocktail volume, and you quickly take the

GGotot RRum?um? MarchMarch 20192019 -- 4848 drink from 148 calories to 1,800 calories! with its sweetening properties. This result leads us to the debate and role of sugar Many alcoholic cocktails carry quite the in the growing global obesity epidemic, punch when it comes to calories and often and the classic Daiquiri is guilty by lead to a poor nutritional choice. But the association. The common sugar in simple classic Daiquiri is not one of them. The syrup that is used in the classic Daiquiri is classic Daiquiri is relatively healthy and sucrose, and most of our sucrose comes light on the caloric side, with only 148 from sugarcane. Sugars, as with other calories per cocktail (4). carbohydrates, fats, protein and alcohol, contribute to overall energy intake (6). NUTRITION FACTS While the classic Daiquiri does contain (Amount Per 1 fl oz) sugar, the global debate today over the Calories: 49.33 use of sugar in food and cocktails seems Total Fat: 0 g to have evolved in a discussion examining Cholesterol: 0 mg energy intake versus energy exerted. Enjoy Potassium: 6 mg a classic Daiquiri (energy intake) with a Total Carbohydrate: 2.1 g healthy lifestyle (energy exerted) and the Dietary Fiber: 0 g tides of obesity will steer far away from Sugar: 1.7 g your personal coastline.

But while nutrition may be important to CONCLUSION some, probably no factor affects the Hundreds of years later and deeply rooted organoleptic properties of the classic in Colonial history, the classic Daiquiri Daiquiri more than Esters. You probably is as popular today as it was yesterday. remember this term from Chemistry class Whether enjoyment originates from the in school. Esters are formed during the cocktail’s rich history, its relatively healthy process of esterification, a reversible profile, or attractive chemical properties, condensation reaction between an alcohol the classic Daiquiri possesses such a and a carboxylic acid. Esters are typically strong flavorful experience that it has found in high-congener or high-acidity stood the test of time, and will continue to rums and account for much of the fruitful do so. aromas of those rums. In the case of light rums, some aromas can be filtered REFERENCES out using activated charcoal. Additional filtration types can also remove color, fatty 1. Baker, C. (1939). The Gentleman’s Companion. acids and esters. Thus, light rums lack NY: Crown Publishers. 2. Thomas, D. (1997). Sailors, Scurvy, and Science. the complexity of esters and -for the most Journal of the Royal Society of Medicine. Volume part- aromatic flavors that are commonly 90: 50-54 found in heavier, less-rectified rums. 3. Dubois, S. (2019) What Citrus Fruit Has the Most Vitamin C. The Nest. Retrieved from: https:// So how does the classic Daiquiri, which is woman.thenest.com/citrus-fruit-vitamin-c-2463. html made with light rum, make up for lacking 4. Daily Burn. (2013). Here’s How Many a strong suite of esters from heavier rum Calories Are in Your Cocktail. Retrieved and still radiate an amazing taste profile? from: https://dailyburn.com/life/health/ That is where lime juice and sugar (Simple alcohol-calories-infographic/ 5. Liu, K. (2013). Cocktail Science: 8 Tips and Syrup) come into play. First off, the Lime Tricks for Getting the Most Out of Citrus. Serious Juice is a major source of flavor and aroma Eats. Retrieved from: https://drinks.seriouseats. for the classic Daiquiri. Lime Juice has a com/2013/07/cocktail-science-using-citrus- pH of 2, thanks to the presence of citric smarter-techniques-for-better-lemon-lime-flavor- drinks-acidity-twists-citrus-peel-oils.html acid which is a fairly strong acid, and 6. SRAS. (2018). Sugar and Health. Sugar one of the key indicators of sourness (5). Research Advisory Service. Retrieved from: However, the reason the classic Daiquiri https://www.srasanz.org/sras/sugar-and-health/ does not taste solely sour is because sugar-and-obesity/ the sugar ingredient, which is typically pH neutral, balances the souring profile

Got Rum? March 2019 - 49 Rum in the news by Mike Kunetka

WEST INDIES RUM & SPIRITS PRODUCERS ASSOCIATION

Caribbean Rum producers recently met in Barbados to discuss how best to protect the intellectual property behind the region. The attending members of the West Indies Rum & Spirits Producers Association (WIRSPA), heard from several experts, including Francis Fay, head of Geographical Indications in the Commission and Bernard O’Connor, a well-respected international attorney on intellectual property and author on geographical indications. The half-day panel discussion examined the establishment of Geographical Indications (GIs) for rums from individual countries. Several in the grouping , Barbados, the Dominican Republic, Jamaica and , are close to or have already established national GIs for These are the most recent and noteworthy their products. Participants also discussed headlines in the rum industry. If you want us ways to protect and advance the reputation of to share your news with our readers, please send me an email to: [email protected]. the Authentic Caribbean Rums produced by WIRSPA members. Speaking at a reception

Got Rum? March 2019 - 50 and tasting of member brands, Komal Samaroo, is comprised of a blend of rare rums aged up to Chairman of the grouping and head of the 16 years, carefully selected by the Zaya master Demerara Distillers conglomerate, observed blender to achieve a delicate balance and that while the industry was one of the oldest in unique profile. On the palate, Zaya offers rich the region, its future potential was considerable. notes of vanilla, caramel, cocoa, apple, banana Already the largest agro-based export earner, and cherry and gives way to a heavy, velvety after minerals, for CARICOM/CARIFORUM smooth finish. The new Zaya Gran Reserva Rum states, it also its premier export product with an bottle pays homage to , also international reputation for quality. “Protecting known as the “Land of the Hummingbird,” by this heritage and developing the opportunity,” including this phrase and a golden hummingbird said Samaroo, “called for careful management on a medallion imprinted in the glass between of the intellectual property intrinsic to the the neck and the label. Golden hummingbirds value of the product.” The panel discussion can also be found alongside imagery of the and the view of the international experts were country’s national flower, the chaconia, on the that a participatory approach, based on broad bottle’s new teal neck. Mirroring the teal neck consensus, was a key factor in successfully are teal accents on the medallion and label, as realizing the potential of the industry in the reference to the tropical waters surrounding the global market. Also speaking at the event, island. Now in a slimmer, sleeker glass bottle, Minister of Agriculture and Food Security for Zaya also features a longer neck for ease of Barbados, the Hon. Indar A. Weir, gave his pouring and a cork closure on top. This rum government’s commitment to supporting the is ideal for sipping on its own or mixing in industry, to achieve its full potential in the tiki-style cocktails. www.infiniumspirits.com/ international market. The Caribbean is widely brands/zaya/. regarded as the “home” of rum and where the word ‘rum’ was first coined. Its countries have BUMBU RUM long been famed for their products and many have historical records showing rum being Bumbu Rum Company announced Bumbu XO, produced here since the 17th century. http:// a small-batch ultra-premium rum aged up to www.wirspa.com/ 18 years in bourbon barrels and finished in white oak sherry barrels from Andalusia, Spain. CAPTAIN MORGAN Bumbu XO is distilled and aged at a 120-year old Panamanian distillery and proudly uses only Spirit Business reported that Diageo is “very local sugarcane and pure spring water. Alongside focused on getting the energy back into Captain Bumbu XO in the Bumbu Rum Co. portfolio is the Morgan” after the rum brand’s half-year sales award-winning Original Bumbu, the Barbadian declined. They quoted CEO Ivan Menezes craft rum popularized by Lil Wayne. Wayne, an who spoke at a Diageo roundtable last month early supporter of the brand, was featured in “rum has been tough for us. The spirits sector Bumbu’s first marketing campaigns from 2018, is so dynamic in the US. [It’s] very attractive, dubbing the rum the “G.O.A.T.,” or Greatest Of fast growing, premiumising nicely with lots of All Time. http://www.bumbu.com/ excitement in whisk(e)y and lots of excitement in Tequila. Even vodka brands that are on trend JAMAICAN RUM FESTIVAL are doing really well. Rum is a more muted category. It’s been tougher. Captain Morgan, The Jamaican Rum Festival, scheduled for as a result, is not performing well. It’s not in March 9th and 10th at the Hope Botanical growth. We’re very focused on getting the Gardens in St. Andrew, will be jointly staged energy back into Captain Morgan so there’s a by the Jamaica Tourist Board (JTB) and Tourism lot of work going on that. It will take time.” www. Enhancement Fund (TEF), in collaboration captainmorgan.com with J. Wray and Nephew Limited’s Appleton Estate Jamaica Rum. JIS News reported that ZAYA Tourism Minister, Hon. Edmund Bartlett, says the Jamaica Rum Festival will serve to further Zaya Gran Reserva Rum of Trinidad and Tobago, enhance the country’s global appeal as a travel imported by Infinium Spirits, announced the destination. Speaking at the February 5th release of a newly-designed bottle with a launch at Jamaica House, Mr. Bartlett said the revised age statement, which is now included festival will help to boost repeat business for on the label. Zaya Gran Reserva, the number the island, once it becomes an annual fixture. one ultra-premium rum (Nielsen, Nov. 3, 2018), TEF Executive Director, Dr. Carey Wallace, who

Got Rum? March 2019 - 51 indicated that approximately $10 million has been wooden box and each bottle is numbered and invested in the festival, expressed the hope that personalized with the signature of the three it will be staged annually “so that tourism grows masters. Only 2,500 bottles of Havana Club in leaps and bounds”. J. Wray and Nephew Tributo 2019 have been created. Bottled at Limited’s Director of Marketing, Jacopo Borsa, 40% ABV, the rum will be available in over 20 said the goal is to create the best rum festival markets, starting March 2019. Asbel Morales, globally, compared to those staged in the United Havana Club’s Maestro del Ron Cubano, said States of America and Europe. Master bender at “Once again, the Havana Club Tributo collection Wray and Nephew, Joy Spence, will be leading praises the richness and variety of styles that a master class in rum production. On board form the base of the authentic Cuban rum with the initiative is the 87-year-old Spirits Pool category. Each rum in the Tributo range uniquely Association Limited which represents all six rum focuses on a different element of the production distilleries in Jamaica. Chairman of Spirits Pool process, from our ancient rum bases to cask Association Limited, Evon Brown, stated that the experimentation, and the 2019 edition continues organization is pleased to support and endorse this story by honoring the craftsmanship of three the Jamaica Rum Festival. “The collaborative of the Maestros del Ron Cubano. It has been event will be integral in giving positive ­exposure a privilege to craft Havana Club Tributo 2019 to Jamaica’s centuries-old rum industry and with Don José Navarro and Salomé Aleman and bring local and ­international focus to Jamaica’s pay homage to the Masters of Cuban Rum, past top-quality rums and other spirits. and present, whose commitment to quality has always ensured that Havana Club has the very E&A SCHEER and THE RIVERSIDE COMPANY best rums in the world.” www.havana-club.com

The Riverside Company, a global private equity BRUGAL RUM firm, has made a significant investment in E&A Scheer, the largest global blender and vendor A fire broke out at the Brugal rum distillery in of premium rum in bulk. “We are thrilled to add the Dominican Republic last month and two the Scheer investment to our portfolio,” said employees were injured. According to a press Riverside Partner Karsten Langer. Carsten release posted on the Casa Brugal website, the Vlierboom, E&A Scheer Managing Director, said: fire started on the morning of February 14th in “Scheer has been family-owned for most of its one of the Puerto Plata site’s warehouses. The 300-year history, so it was important to find a blaze was completely extinguished two days partner who would respect this heritage while later on the morning of the 16th. The company helping the company seize the current growth said more than 50% of the debris has been opportunities. removed. During attempts to put out the fire, twelve firefighters and two Brugal employees HAVANA CLUB were “affected in different circumstances” and received medical attention. According to the Pernod Ricard and Havana Club have released Brugal post, one firefighter was affected by the fourth instalment in its limited edition, luxury smoke inhalation and an employee, Francis José range of Cuban rums, Tributo 2019. To create the González, suffered a broken ankle after being new expression, three generations of Maestros hit by a forklift and had to undergo surgery. del Ron Cubano,(masters of Cuban rum, came The statement praised local first responders. together for a blending exercise, including don “Thanks to the rapid action of the firemen and José Navarro, primer maestro del Ron Cubano; rescue workers, their professionalism and the Asbel Morales, Maestro del Ron Cubano; operation followed to prevent the flames from and Salomé Aleman, the first and only female expanding, the fire was controlled, impacting Maestra del Ron Cubano. Each maestro selected only one of our warehouses.” Brugal rum is a rare and extra-aged rum base, representing owned by Scottish spirits firm Edrington, which their own style, which were left to mature in the produces Scotch whisky brands The Macallan, 1970s, 1990s, 2010s. The bases, including one The Famous Grouse and Highland Park. www. that has been matured in rare cognac casks, brugal-rum.com were combined and blended with a rum that has rested for over 25 years in French oak barrels. TWO RHUM CITIES Havana Club Tributo 2019 is said to have notes of dry fruits and oak on the nose, with flavors The following is a rough, Google translation from of vanilla, dried fruits and roasted almonds on a post on the French RCI.FM Radio website: the palate. The rum is presented in a luxury

Got Rum? March 2019 - 52 The project of a rhum city in Martinique has The Heritage Tour - Learn about the history been approved by the public authorities. Yet a and unique craftsmanship of Ron del Barrilito, similar private project could soon see the day the oldest Puerto Rican rum, still made in in Guadeloupe. Will Martinique and Guadeloupe the same place and in the same way since each have their “rhum cities”? This is what 1880. This tour will take you back in time to could happen given the projects involved. show you how the world’s finest sipping rum Certainly the record of the rhum city planned has been made through the years. You’ll see in Martinique is moving ahead. The initiative is the Hacienda’s several historical landmarks, led by the association Contact-Entreprise and including a beautifully preserved mansion the CODERUM (Organization Committee for the and windmill dating all the way back to the Defense of Rhum). Mixed financing would be early nineteenth century. You’ll learn about provided by the public and the private sector for the Fernández family who created Ron del a total cost of 30 to 40 million euros. Barrilito. And, last but not least, you’ll get an in-depth walkthrough along the age- The councilors of the Assembly of Martinique old process that makes Ron del Barrilito expressed a motion of support for the project of one of a kind. Upon arrival, you will enjoy a the City of Rhum during the plenary of February. complimentary Ron del Barrilito rum cocktail They also expressed the wish that a follow-up at the Visitor’s Center before beginning your be put in place for the completion of this project. tour. After the tour ends, you are welcome to The final project could see the light of day in 7 stay and relax for a while at Hacienda Santa or 10 years. Ana’s grounds, enjoy more cocktails at the bar or explore the gift shop. A prefiguration association will be created in the coming days to ensure that the necessary The Mixology Tour - Improve your bartending conditions for activities can be met. This game with interactive classes taught by association will be composed of members of superstar mixologists who will show you how Contact Entreprise, elected representatives to make show-stopping cocktails such as and rhum professionals. They will take care to Old Fashioned, Presidente, and Hemingway approach the distilleries all over the world, find Daiquiri. If you plan on buying a couple of a place (the former courier of Fort-de-France bottles for your home bar, this mixology was mentioned) and what will be in this city. In experience is a must. Some of the island’s Martinique, the City of Rhum will be modeled best bartenders will show you the basics of on the city of Bordeaux wine. Rhums/rums from making bar-quality cocktails in your own around the world will be exposed. The idea is home. This is not Mojitos 101. You will use to show the know-how, the heritage around the Ron del Barrilito to craft some of today’s most rum. “World capital of Rhum” elegant drinks. By the end of the class, you’ll be able to easily impress your guests with However, the Martinique project could have your bartending moves at your next party. a competitor 200 kilometers to the north. Indeed, a Guadeloupean initiative of the same The Tasting Tour - When you age rum, some order is in the boxes. Modestly called “ Ile de of it naturally evaporates from the barrel. This Guadeloupe, Rhum World Capital”’ the idea is is called the Angel’s Share. What the Angels similar to the city of rhum Martinique. We should didn’t get can be yours when you book the best find rums from all over the world. The project and most exclusive rum tasting experience in has been conducted for 2 years by a private the Caribbean, a unique opportunity to sip investor who wishes for the moment to remain and enjoy all of their rums, from the cult- discreet. The project leader has the support classic Two Stars to the extremely limited- of all Guadeloupe. www.rci.fm/infos/economie/ edition Five Stars, You will get to taste it all, deux-cites-du-rhum-valent-elles-mieux-quune from the fruit notes of Dos Estrellas to the cult-classic Tres Estrellas. You will also sip RON DEL BARRILITO Ron del Barrilito Cuatro Estrellas, a new blend available exclusively at Hacienda Santa Ron del Barrilito now has an Official Ron del Ana, and of course, the crown jewel: Cinco Barrilito Store, in the brand-new Visitor’s Estrellas. There’s no better opportunity to Center. You can stop by after a tour or just taste all of these world-class rums in a single come straight to the store to get any of their tasting. https://rondelbarrilito.com/ rums or exclusive merchandise. They now offer three tours:

Got Rum? March 2019 - 53 Visit www.gotrum.com, click on “shop” We Are The Framework For Your Success

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Got Rum? March 2019 - 55 CIGAR & RUM PAIRING by Philip Ili Barake

Got Rum? March 2019 - 56 Fresh Old Fashioned

Several things came together in order for me to put together this pairing, using a classic cocktail but giving it a fresh, citrus touch, which is perfect for the high temperatures where I am. So I opted for this version of the Old Fashioned.

The Old Fashioned we’ll be making is based on the classic recipe with brown sugar, a couple of drops of bitters and a splash of water. We mix these well and then add ice cubes and 2 ounces of Bayou y name is Philip Ili Barake, Sommelier Rum Select, gently stirring and topping M by trade. As a result of working with off with Ginger Ale, which gives it a new selected restaurants and wine producers in Chile, I started developing a passion touch. We then add an orange peel as for distilled spirits and cigars. As part of garnish, giving it a citric hint while also my most recent job, I had the opportunity enhancing the freshness. to visit many Central American countries, as well as, rum distilleries and tobacco Now that the cocktail is ready (which is growers. extremely easy to make) I have to decide But my passion for spirits and cigars did what to pair it with, so I reached into the not end there; in 2010 I had the honor of humidor and pulled out a Quorum Classic representing Chile at the International Cigar Double Gordo (6 x 60) from Nicaragua. Sommelier Competition, where I won first This cigar format will easily give us one place, becoming the first South American to hour of smoking. The cigar starts very ever achieve that feat. creamy, reminiscent of the foam from Now I face the challenge of impressing a well-made espresso. The intensity the readers of “Got Rum?” with what is never exceeds the medium range, which perhaps the toughest task for a Sommelier: is perfect for this pairing. The filler is discussing pairings while being well from Nicaragua while the wrapper is sun- aware that there are as many individual preferences as there are rums and cigars in grown from Ecuador; it is not as strong as the world. the Nicaraguan cigars we’ve tried before.

I believe a pairing is an experience that should not be limited to only two products; it is something that can be incorporated into our lives. I hope to help our readers discover and appreciate the pleasure of trying 2019 new things (or experiencing known things in new ways).

Philip

Got Rum? March 2019 - 57 hoto credit:hoto @Cigarili P

GGotot RRum?um? MarchMarch 20192019 -- 5858 hoto credit:hoto @Cigarili P

Normally when pairing a cigar with a traditional Whiskey Old Fashioned, we stay with medium-bodied tobaccos, but some smokers could also enjoy pairing with stronger ones. The cocktail we’ve made, with its hints of freshness, is best paired with medium- bodied or milder ones, forget about the full-bodied cigars.

As for the rum, this was my first time trying Bayou Select, now owned by Stolichnaya, made in Louisiana. When trying it neat, there are well-defined oak barrel notes, which should feel like home for fans of American Whiskies. It has a slight honey and toasted note aftertaste, the finish is medium and slightly spicy, not as much as their Spiced Rum but not too far behind. The intense oak notes make the rum a perfect candidate for this type of cocktail.

This is yet another easy cocktail for readers to replicate at home, the rum is an excellent replacement for recipes that call for Bourbon as the main ingredient. I hope everyone who likes the classic Old Fashioned will try this new, refreshing twist.

Philip Ili Barake #GRCigarPairing

Got Rum? March 2019 - 59