French Polynésie française

is a set of islands that is an overseas country attached to . Located in the South Pacific Ocean, it is halfway between California and Australia. and her islands cover four million square kilometers of ocean which is the same area as the European Union. However the land above sea accounts for some 7,000 square kilometers consisting of 118 islands, grouped into five archipelagoes (4 volcanic, 1 coral). in is one of the three great phosphate rock islands in the Pacific Ocean - the others are Banaba (Ocean Island) in Kiribati and Nauru.

2 3 Climate Tropical, but moderate. Natural hazards : occasional cyclonic storms in January. Very humid. The average ambient temperature is 27°C (80°F) and the waters of the lagoons average 26°C (79°F) in the winter and 29°C (84°F) in the summer. But do not worry, most resorts and hotel rooms are air conditioned or cooled by ceiling fans. Summer is from November through April, with a warmer and more humid climate and winter is from May through October, when the climate is slightly cooler and drier. When you step out of the airplane, you’ll immediately notice that the air is warm and humid. Consequently, besides your camera and your extra memory cards, do not forget to pack lightweight cotton clothes, sunscreen lotion and a baseball cap or a wide brimmed hat. Synthetic fabrics can get hot and sticky in the tropics. Terrain Mixture of rugged high islands and low islands with reefs. Highest point : Mont Orohena 2,241 meters (6790 feet) Diverse landscapes: Valleys cut by rivers and waterfalls Crests leading to summits attaining heights of more than 2,000 meters (6,500 feet) Seashore paths bordering remote creeks overshadowed by cliffs. History The Polynesians inhabited these islands for several hundred years before their discovery by western explorers. Several marae (religious sites) still exist, scattered throughout the islands as evidence of this inhabitation. The British discovered Tahiti in the mid 1760’s and Captain Cook visited there in 1769 to observe the Transit of Venus before sailing on to the south and west in search of the fabled Terra Australus Incognita with the assistance of a Polynesian navigator. Understand The French annexed various Polynesian island groups during the 19th century. During the 1960’s and 1970’s, the French conducted atmospheric nuclear tests in the islands, primarily at Mururoa atoll. Testing later moved underground after international protests from other Pacific countries, including a flotilla of yachts and a warship from New Zealand to monitor tests in 1974. Testing continued into the early 1990’s, despite attempts to disrupt them by environmental activists. In September 1995, France stirred up widespread protests by resuming nuclear testing on the Mururoa atoll after a three-year moratorium. The tests were suspended in January 1996. In recent years the islanders have been working towards autonomy and economic independence from France. However, the process is a gradual one and is expected to take a decade or two to occur.

4 5 Regions

Society Islands Most-inhabited western island group, a group of high tropical islands encircled by coral reefs and lagoons (divided administratively into Windward Islands and Leeward Islands). Among the Leeward Islands Bora Bora is outstanding, Huahine, Maupiti and Raiatea are especially remarkable, in the Windward Islands Moorea is outstanding and Tahiti with the capital is especially remarkable. Tuamotu Islands Vast central archipelago of coral reefs. It is a collection of low islands or atolls. is outstanding. Northeastern archipelago, a group of high islands near the equator, whose steep mountains are inhabited by wild horses, goats and pigs. Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa are outstanding. To the south-east, rarely visited, consisting of the high island of and its fringe of islands which are the eroded remains of its former gigantic crater, is situated in the far eastern corner of French Polynesia. Small southern archipelagos (includes Tubuai Islands and Bass Islands). Last inhabited islands of the South Pacific, these ancient volcanoes with soft relief are far off the beaten track. Rapa. A remote atoll

Cities Papeete Capital, which is on the island of Tahiti.

Other destinations Clipperton Island Far to the east, closer to Mexico, was administered by France from French Polynesia until recently

6 7 Entry requirements ationals of the European Union, Andorra, Iceland, Liechtenstein, Monaco and Norway only need a valid passport for entry - in no case will they need a visa for a stay of any N length. Unlike metropolitan France, Swiss nationals are only visa-exempt in French Polynesia for a stay of up to 90 days and do require a visa for a stay exceeding 90 days. Nationals of all other countries will need a valid passport for entry to French Polynesia and most will need a visa. Citizens of the following countries do not require a visa for a stay of up to 90 days: Albania*, Antigua and Barbuda, Argentina, Australia, Bahamas, Barbados, Bolivia, Bosnia and Herzegovina*, Brazil, Brunei, Canada, Chile, Costa Rica, Croatia, El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras, Israel, Japan, Kiribati, Macedonia*, Malaysia, Marshall Islands, Mauritius, Mexico, Micronesia, Montenegro*, Nauru, New Zealand, Nicaragua, Palau, Panama, Paraguay, Saint Kitts and Nevis, Samoa, San Marino, Serbia*/**, Seychelles, Singapore, Solomon Islands, South Korea, Switzerland, Taiwan***, Tonga, Tuvalu, United States, Uruguay, Vatican City, Venezuela, as well as persons holding British National (Overseas), Hong Kong SAR or Macau SAR passports. In addition, holders of a valid residence permit issued by the Préfet of a French overseas département, the High Commissioner of a French territorial collectivity or a Schengen state and holders of a special card issued by the French Ministry of Foreign and European Affairs to the staff of diplomatic and consular missions can stay in French Polynesia visa-free for up to 90 days. Citizens of Albania*, Antigua and Barbuda, Argentina, Bahamas, Barbados, Bolivia, Bosnia and Herzegovina*, Brunei, Canada, Chile, Costa Rica, Croatia, El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras, Israel, Kiribati, Macedonia*, Malaysia, Marshall Islands, Mauritius, Micronesia, Montenegro*, Nauru, New Zealand, Nicaragua, Palau, Panama, Paraguay, Saint Kitts and Nevis, Samoa, San Marino, Serbia*/**, Seychelles, Solomon Islands, Switzerland, Taiwan***, Tonga, Tuvalu, Uruguay, Vatican City, as well as British Nationals (Overseas), are permitted to work in French Polynesia without the need to obtain a visa or any further authorisation for the period of their 90 day visa-free stay. Holders of a valid residence permit issued by the Préfet of a French overseas département, the High Commissioner of a French territorial collectivity or a Schengen state and holders of a special card issued by the French Ministry of Foreign and European Affairs to the staff of diplomatic and consular missions are also permitted to work during their 90 day visa-free stay. If you are required to obtain a visa for French Polynesia, you can apply for one at a French embassy or consulate in your country of residence. A visa costs 9€. For more information on entry requirements, visit this webpage of the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Note that while British subjects with the right of abode in the United Kingdom and British Overseas Territories citizens connected to Gibraltar are considered “United Kingdom nationals for European Union purposes” and therefore eligible for unlimited access to French Polynesia, British Overseas Territories citizens without the right of abode in the United Kingdom and British subjects without the right of abode in the United Kingdom as well as British Overseas citizens and British protected persons in general do require visas. However, all British Overseas Territories citizens except those solely connected to the Cyprus Get In Sovereign Base Areas are eligible for British citizenship and thereafter unlimited access to French Polynesia. Further note that Nationals of Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Macedonia, Montenegro and Serbia need a biometric passport to enjoy visa-free travel, Serbian nationals with passports issued by the Serbian Coordination Directorate (residents of Kosovo with Serbian passports) do need a visa and Taiwan nationals need their ID number to be stipulated in their passport to enjoy visa-free travel. By plane French Polynesia has a very remote position in the South Pacific Ocean, so unless you are already there, flying is the main option. he flagcarrier of French Polynesia isAir Tahiti Nui and the main airport is the Faa’a International Airport built on the lagoon, about 5 km west of Papeete near several major T hotels such as InterContinental Hotel [3]. Nui flies internationally to Tokyo, Osaka, Los Angeles, New York, Auckland, Sydney and Paris. They cooperate with , Japan , Air New Zealand and Qantas. They no longer participate in either of the American Airlines Advantage Program or the Delta Air Lines program. Air New Zealand [4] also has regular flights to Tahiti. LAN Chile flies twice a week to/from Easter Island, with connections on to Santiago de Chile. Passengers arriving on international flights must collect their baggage, go through customs and then recheck-in at the domestic flight counters some 50 m to the right of the International Arrivals area. By boat There are cruiseships on irregular schedules, and cargo ships on regular schedules travelling from Hawaii, New Zealand, Australia and Panamá. The islands are understandably something of a hub for sailboats between South or Central America and Australasia, and it is not impossible to find passage for yourself on a yacht, but challenging.

8 9 By boat erries (sometimes combined cargo and pax boats like the Aranui) travel between most F islands. Catamarans and ferry boats cross between Tahiti and Moorea several times a day. Schooners and cargo boats serve all the inhabited islands from Papeete. Rotations vary according to the destinations: from three times a week to the to once monthly to the Island of Mangareva. Two cruise ships/luxury liners currently ply the islands: the Paul Gauguin, which does a regular 7-day trip around the Societies, with occasional trips out to the , Marquesas and Cook Islands; and the Tahitian Princess which does similar itineraries. A great way to see the islands, unless you’re on a tight budget. The Bora Bora Cruises is a more intimate vessel based in the Leeward Islands. Or for more adventure, embark on the Aranui III. Air Tahiti suggests the following multi-island itineraries: Coming up December 2007: the Star Clippers will have the capacity of 170 passengers. Yacht charter Polynesia [8] Windward Islands, one of the worlds largest yacht charter Society Archipelago: companies, can take care of all charter requirements, from bareboat to luxury yacht in 2 islands: Tahiti - Moorea - Bora Bora (or Huahine or Raiatea) - Tahiti French Polynesia. Operating from different offices worldwide (UK, USA, Hong Kong, Dubai, 3 islands: Tahiti - Bora Bora - Raiatea (or Huahine or Maupiti) - Tahiti, or: Tahiti - Moorea - Germany, Italy, France, Spain and Switzerland). Huahine - Bora Bora - Tahiti, or: Tahiti - Moorea - Bora Bora - Raiatea - Tahiti 4 islands: Tahiti - Moorea - Huahine - Raiatea - Bora Bora - Tahiti By plane 5 islands: Tahiti - Moorea - Huahine) - Raiatea - Bora Bora - Tahiti ir Tahiti offers domestic flights to other destinations in French Polynesia, and Air Society Islands and North Tuamotu: Moorea [7] makes the short hop to Moorea several times daily. Charters flights such as A 2 islands: Tahiti - Bora Bora - Rangiroa (or , or ) - Tahiti Air Archipel are available on request. Helicopters are one other option 3 islands: Tahiti - Bora Bora - Rangiroa - Manihi (or Fakarava or Tikehau) - Tahiti, or Tahiti Air Tahiti operates 11 turboprop aircraft (4 ATR42-500 with 48 seats, 5 ATR72-500 with 66 - Moorea (or Huahine, Raiatea or Maupiti) - Bora Bora - Rangiroa (or Fakarava, Manihi or seats, 1 Beechcraft with 8 seats and 1 Twin Otter with 19 seats). The ATR42 and ATR72 reach Tikehau) - Tahiti a cruising speed of about 500 km/h. Most of the inter-islands flights in the Marquesas are 4 islands: Tahiti- Moorea - Huahine Or Raiatea) - Bora Bora - Rangiroa (or Fakarava, operated with Twin Otter. Manihi or Tikehau) - Tahiti Air Tahiti offers several types of Air Tahiti Airpasses: North Tuamotu Archipelago: 2 islands: Tahiti - Rangiroa - Tikehau (or Fakarava or Manihi) - Tahiti, or Tahiti - Discovery Pass, covering Moorea, Huahine and Raiatea: € 253,- with 20 kg baggage (or Tikehau) - Get Around allowance, € 316,- with 50 kg baggage allowance, Manihi - Tahiti 3 islands: Tahiti - Tinehau (or Manihi) - Rangiroa - Fakareva (or Tikehau) - Tahiti, or Tahiti - The territory of French Polynesia has about the same surface as the European Union but the combined land area (all islands Bora Bora Pass, covering Moorea, Huahine, Raiatea, Bora Bora and Maupiti: € 367,- with Fakarava - Rangiroa - Manihi - Tahiti and atolls) is just about the size of Mallorca. Most people live on the two islands of Tahiti and Moorea. These islands have 20 kg baggage allowance, € 460,- with 50 kg baggage allowance from Jan 1 to 10, Jun to 4 islands: Tahiti on Fri - Ahe on Sun - Manihi (on Tue or Wed) - Rangiroa (on Fri or Sat) - Oct and Dec 11 to 31, € 347,- with 20 kg baggage allowance, € 435,- with 50 kg baggage Fakarava - Tahiti street networks and public transport (including good touristic infrastructure). allowance from Jan 11 to 31, Feb to May, Nov 1 until Dec 10, Marquesas Archipelago: To jump from island to island there are different options: Lagoons Pass, covering Moorea, Rangiroa, Tikehau, Manihi, Fakareva and Ahe: € 378,- with 2 islands: Tahiti - Nuku Hiva - Hiva Oa (Atuona) (or Ua Huka or Ua Pou) - Tahiti 20 kg baggage allowance, € 487,- with 50 kg baggage allowance, 3 islands: Tahiti - Hiva Oa ((Atuona) - Ua Huka (or Ua Pou) - Nuku Hiva - Tahiti 4 islands: Tahiti - Hiva Oa ((Atuona) - Ua Huka - Ua Pou) - Nuku Hiva - Tahiti Bora Tuamotu Pass, covering Moorea, Huahine, Bora Bora, Maupiti, Rangiroa, Tikehau, Society Islands - Tuamotu - Marquesas: Manihi, Fakareva and Ahe: € 498,- with 20 kg baggage allowance, € 640,- with 50 kg 4 islands: Tahiti - Bora Bora -Rangiroa - Nuku Hiva - Atuona - Tahiti baggage allowance, Austral Archipelago: 2 islands: Tahiti -Rurutu - Tubuai (or Rimatara) - Tahiti, or: Tahiti - Tubuai - Raivavae - Tahiti Marquesas Pass, covering Nuku Hiva, Atuona, Ua Pou, Ua Huka: € 666,- with 20 kg baggage 4 islands: Tahiti (on Mon) - Raivavae (on Wed) - Tubuai (on Fri) - Rurutu (on Mon) - Rimatara allowance (not available with 50 kg baggage allowance), (on Wed) - Tahiti Austral Pass, covering Rurutu, Tubuai, Raivavae, Rimatara: € 491,- with 20 kg baggage Check-in at the airports begins 1 hour and closes 20 min before departure time (except for flights to allowance, € 630,- with 50 kg baggage allowance, Rarotonga where check-in begins 2 hrs and closes 45 min before departure time). Extensions to the Marguesas cost € 459,- with 20 kg baggage allowance, € 636,- with 50 kg baggage allowance, and to the Austral Islands € 262,- with 20 kg baggage allowance, € 361,- with 50 kg baggage allowance (rates of 2010). Passes start and usually end at Tahiti or Moorea. Tahiti-Moorea or Moorea-Tahiti can be flown on Air Moorea or Air Tahiti flights. The itinerary does not need to cover all the islands of the Pass. All flights must be reserved and confirmed. The full journey must not exceed 28 days. The islands of one archipelago must be visited before moving to the next archipelago (eg islands of the Society archipelago must be visited before those of the Tuamotu archipelago). The islands within an archipelago can be visited in any order. Stopover or transit in Tahiti within the Pass is not allowed, except for the Lagons Pass between Moorea and the islands of the Tuamotu Archipelago, for a Pass with Extension, between the Pass and the Extension, where a maximum of 24h transit in Tahiti is permitted. Only one stop per island (of more than 24h) is allowed. A transit (less than 24 hours) with a flight number change is considered as stopover. Exception: change of flight number with a transit of less than 2 hours in Rangiroa on Bora Bora to Tikehau, Manihi, Fakarava or vice-versa flights. Change of reservations is not permitted after the Pass has been issued. Air Passes are non-refundable after departure. For details see http://www.airtahiti.com/articles.php?id=69 10 11 Talk The official languages are French and Tahitian with French being the most widely spoken language by far. English is also widely spoken particularly in tourist areas.

Here are the main Tahitian words that you may pick up from a conversation: Aita = no E = yes Fare = house Ia ora na = Good Morning Ma’a = food Maeva = welcome Maita’i? = How are you? Mauruuru = Thank you Nana = Goodbye Pape = water Tama’a = Let’s eat Tahitians have a tendency to mix up French and Tahitian words in their conversation, so don’t be surprised. Buy

Be aware that everything is very expensive in French Polynesia. Even budget accommodation is tough on the budget, as is food, even groceries. So if you visit, take lots of money, you will need it. The following forms of payment are accepted: all legal bank notes, international credit cards and traveller’s check. The international banks with foreign exchange offices on Tahiti and the most frequently visited islands are the Bank of Tahiti, the Bank of Polynesia and Socredo. International hotels also provide this service but be careful: some atolls and islands in the Austral and Gambier group have no banking facilities. Currency Exchange/Buy rates: As of 04/04/2011 1 Euro = 118.79 FCFP 1 USD = 83.65 FCFP 1 GBP = 134.79 FCFP 1 CAND = 86.39 FCFP Jewellery lack pearls are the high-end purchase in this part of the world. They are beautiful, and of varied quality, so the buyer beware, and the sky’s the limit. There is lots of inexpensive mother- Bof-pearl jewellery that make very nice gifts. Created only by the giant black-lipped oyster Pinctada Margaritifera which thrives in the lagoons of the Tuamotu Archipelago, the rare Polynesian black pearl varies in color from silver through dark grey with green and pink highlights. This Tahitian jewel makes an exquisite and unique souvenir. For visitors who wish to discover the secrets of Tahitian pearls, a visit to one of the pearl farms on the island of Tahaa or on one of the low islands in the Tuamotu is an experience not to be missed. 12 13 Eat ine food in Tahiti and her Islands is typically a natural style of cooking based on fresh products exotically blended. There is a presence of F European cuisine within a tropical setting. Asian cooking has also added its own tastes and textures. Fish of all kinds, whether tuna, bonito, mahimahi or the many varieties of lagoon fish are prepared in many different ways: roasted, boiled and raw. The top rated dishes are raw fish a la tahitienne which is marinated in lemon juice and coconut milk and the very popular Chinese ma’a tinito (which is a mixture of pork, kidney beans, chinese cabbage and macaroni.) Family occasions and celebrations are the time for a huge tamara’a Tahiti (Tahitian-style feasts) where a meal consisting of suckling pig, fish, breadfruit, yams and fe’i bananas is wrapped in banana leaves and steamed in an earth-dug oven over layers of hot rocks. The larger hotels organize big buffet evenings that offer a vast panorama of local culinary delights accompanied by traditional dance performances. Do note that tipping is not a custom in Tahiti and her Islands.

Drink ottles of water are readily available. Being a French territory, wine is common and easy to find. As this is a tropical island, a multitude of fruit juices Bfrom pineapple juice to coconut milk are to be found everywhere. Pineapple juice from Moorea is not to be missed! It is sometimes better to crack open your own coconut yourself and drain it for lunch. Orange juice is the states favorite drink and oranges are grown all along the coastlines. If you’re a fan of beer, the Hinano Beer will definitely be one you will like to taste and bring a few cans home.

14 15 Sleep

round fifty international class hotels can be found on twelve islands covering three different archipelagoes - Society, Tuamotu and Marquesas. AAlthough the islands of Tahiti, Moorea and Bora Bora provide over 80% of hotel capacity, the lesser known islands are also opening top-of-the-range establishements. International and Local Hotel Chains

InterContinental • Sofite• Novotel • Meridien • Starwood-Sheraton Orient Express • Club Med • Radisson • Maitai • South Pacific Management

Although complying with international standards, Polynesian style has been respected in the overwater bungalows with the use of pandanus, bamboo and shell light fixtures. Some bungalows are fitted with glass-bottomed tables for watching the fishes without ever getting your feet wet.

or travelers who prefer the simplicity and authenticity of the local experience, family hotels are the ideal type of accommodation. The welcome is F warm and friendly. Family hotels are divided into four categories: Bed and Breakfast, Holiday Family Homes, Family-run guest houses, Family hotels. Bed and Breakfast furnished bungalows limited to four dwelling units per home and able to accommodate twelve persons, equipped with bathrooms either private or shared. Holiday family homes furnished bungalows limited to nine dwelling units and able to accommodate twenty-seven persons, equipped with bathrooms and kitchenette. Family-run guest houses same as the above + breakfast and dinner service. Family hotels offers full board meal service and a la carte food menu.

acation rentals is a growing trend even in Tahiti and her islands. More and more owners are renting by themselves their bungalow or house. For V travelers seeking expertise from specialists on the destination, they can contact “Tahiti In Style”. Tahiti In Style offers travelers the opportunity to enjoy Tahiti from a more private perspective and in total immersion. Their furnished properties range from budget studio to beach front villas in Tahiti, Moorea and Bora Bora. Tahiti In Style handles everything from reservation, greeting, housekeeping, billing as well as various concierge options and activities.

16 17 Learn Respect The Gauguin Museum (Musée Gaugin), about 50km from Papeete on Tahiti Nui contains artifacts ahitians are proud of their islands and happy to share their way of life with their from Gauguin’s time in Tahiti, including reproductions of many of his paintings. Open-air T guests in many ways. They are really relaxed people who live according to the aita buildings and a gift shop are situated in a well-manicured lawn just next to the ocean, well away pea pea philosophy (meaning “no worries”). Their culture should be respected as well from the city and resorts. Botanical gardens are just next door. as their way of life. Don’t make them feel that you’re superior to them but just be natural. The Museum of Tahiti and her Islands, about 15km from Papeete, contains really great displays They are a very welcoming and warm people. of Polynesian history, culture and ethnology. Anyone who is interested in anthropology or the Please also respect the land and its diversity. Activities which include approaching whales and other history of the Polynesian culture should see this museum. marine mammals are regulated and authorizations from the environmental authorities are mandatory. For pearl lovers, there is also the Robert Wan Pearl Museum in Tahiti. Contact Stay safe nternet access in Polynesia is provided by MANA, a subsidiary of the Post and • Tahiti has one of the lowest crime rates within France and its territories. However, petty crime, ITelecommunications Office, either by modem or by ADSL. For a short stay, a such as pickpocketing and purse snatching, occurs. subscription-free connection is best. You can make the connection with the following information: Telephone # of the server: 36-88-88 - Log-in: anonymous - Password: • As an overseas territory of France, defence and law enforcement are provided by the French anonymous. This type of modem connection is available in all archipelagos. Forces (Army, Navy, Air Force) and Gendarmerie. There are cyber-spaces on Tahiti, Moorea, Huahine, Bora Bora, Raiatea and Rangiroa • No vaccines are required. (about 250 Fcfp for a 15 minute connection.) Most of the hotels and some small hotels • Be sure to bring jelly-type sandals for walking amidst coral in the water and along the beaches and pensions provide Internet access to their guests. On some islands, access is possible or either old sneakers so you don’t cut your feet on the coral or don’t step on a stonefish. from post offices. • Encounters with sharks in the lagoon will be most likely when scuba diving or even snorkeling, Wifitiki has a useful page listing wifi hotspots in French Polynesia. but they are harmless. So are stingrays. However, be aware of moray eels which hide deep in Iaoranet also provides wifi in the Society Islands (Tahiti, Moorea, Huahine, Bora Bora, the corals and are generally curious. Be sure to keep your fingers to yourself or risk a Raiatea) as well as some of the Tuamotus (Fakarava, Manihi, Rangiroa), Gambiers painful bite. (Mangareva), and Marquesas (Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa). One hour costs ~$5US, but blocks of time can be purchased online for as little as $2US/hour. Stay healthy The service is slow but fairly reliable. • Medical treatment is generally good. Two major hospitals as well as several private clinics French Polynesia is one of the few places within practical sailing distance of the Pitcairn Islands. provide 24-hour medical service. • No vaccines are required. 18 19 Bon Voyage