Long Island’s Perfect Driving Loop

text by Irvina Lew photos by Loreto Caceres

Montauk Point Lighthouse ith the passing of Labor Day, summer is “officially” over. Still, ’s beaches, parkways and vineyards—and all those for- mer family estates dedicated as public arboretums, parks, mansions W and museums—spur the spirit to get in the car and go. So I did. For my Long Island loop, I transformed the usual fish-shaped land mass to a fish-on-a-platter form, the way it looks after the fishmonger lops off the head (Queens and Brooklyn) and tail (Montauk and Greenport/Orient Point). This itinerary travels east on Rte. 27A, onto the South Shore, west on Rte. 25A and onto the North Shore, with occasional stops on their strip-mall-sided siblings, rtes. 27 and 25). Starting south on Meadowbrook State Pkwy., a sense of space expands near wetlands, low bridges and on Ocean Parkway, where miles of pine trees, brush, dunes, bay and ocean pay homage to nature. This playground boasts beaches to walk (Jones Beach), a lighthouse to climb (Robert Moses State Park) and charter fishing boats to admire (Fishing Station at Captree State Park).

Robert Moses Cause- old oaks soaring over the Long Island Mari- way floats so near the holly trees and azalea time Museum showcases Great South Bay that and rhododendron bor- the oyster sloop Priscilla, cars and clammers are dering riverfront paths. a working vessel from almost eye-to-eye. The From the mansion’s café, 1888 to 1963. 27A East exit (aka Mon- the view across Connet- There’s theatrical cul- tauk Hwy. or Main St.) quot River is of Oak- ture on this stretch of the leads to Bay Shore and dale’s Idle Hour, a former South Shore, too. Boulton a series of South Shore Vanderbilt Estate. Now, Center is in Bay Shore, estates that have be- it’s Dowling College and and the Gateway Play- come public parklands. a residential neighbor- house attracts theater- “Welcome to Long Island Wine Country” sign signals arrival in the North Fork Gardiner County Park hood with bridges over lovers to Patchogue and and tasting rooms such as Paumonok (Aquebogue), Tasting Room (Jamesport) welcomes leashed pets narrow canals, a tower, Bellport. The Westhamp- and Shinn Estate and Sherwood Vineyard (Mattituck). Mattituck is also home to on a path to the bay, and chicken coops turned ton Beach Performing block-long Love Lane and the inventive food and welcoming hospitality at Love Sagtikos Manor, where into living spaces and Arts Center draws top Lane Kitchen. Heading west, Main Rd. reaches Tanger Outlet, where the newly George Washington waterfront homes. Near- talent, and Pizzetteria opened Empire State Cellars & Tasting Room, just before the entrance to the slept in 1790, dates to the by, the Connetquot River Brunetti lures those who Long Island Expwy., pours and sells State wines. Above Left: Captree fishing My loop then passes Rte. 25 and goes north where, after a pie-buying stop at 17th century. Formerly, State Park Preserve, appreciate homemade boat; Above: Fresh lobster they belonged to the formerly an exclusive dough and mozzarella at Jordan’s Lobster Farm; Briermere Farms, Sound Ave. (Rte. 25A) wiggles west between rural farms, the Gardiner family as a land sportsmen’s club, offers along with Italian beer Opposite Page: Jamesport’s beach and campgrounds at Wildwood State Park, Sound Beach and Miller Place, Tasting Room. grant from King Charles permit holders 3,473 and wine. ending in Port Jefferson. Also called North Country Rd., 25A is bordered by I. Heckscher State Park acres of bird and animal My journey then leaves tree-covered hillsides, historic clapboard houses and steeple-topped churches as in East Islip is vast and life for hiking, fishing Westhampton via county it edges past a pond and waterside park and arrives at the stunning Stony Brook offers options to walk, and kayaking. All three roads 31 (north) to 104 Village Center. Its stately post office and storefront boutiques across from the cycle or drive along the parks are integral to (left) to 105 (right), a Three Village Inn (Mirabelle Tavern) all face the harbor. bay. The Bayard Cutting the 34-mile Long Island pleasant drive passing Back on 25A, the Long Island Museum houses 220 historic carriages and Arboretum in Great Greenbelt Trail linking golf courses, woodlands 40,000 American artifacts, some dating from the 18th century. Through Smith- River was developed South Shore Estuary and a bridge over the town and Kings Park the drive passes hiking paths in the Makamah Nature from Frederick Law Olm- Reserve with Long Island Peconic River. At Rte. 25 Preserve, and at Mill Pond House, the dining room faces Centerport stead’s plan (c. 1887), with Sound. In West Sayville, (Main Rd.) the

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Harbor, as do houses LONG ISLAND’S SUFFOLK COUNTY perched on steep hill- side borders. The North Shore is Enter to win famous for its historic FREE GAS Autumn on Long Island. Gilded Age mansions www.discoverlongisland.com/contest and a road sign on 25A directs drivers to one Best enjoyed one perfect sip at a time. of the most beautiful: the Vanderbilt Museum, Mansion & Planetarium (planetarium is currently closed for renovations). In nearby Huntington, the Heckscher Museum may not be an official mansion, but it features permanent and chang- ing exhibits. In Cold Spring Harbor, there’s a 17th-century seafaring village and the Whaling Museum, which includes an exquisitely restored, perhaps the most popu- Top: Oakdale’s Bayard an authentic 19th-century Cutting Arboretum; Bottom: historic mansion, which lar among them all, Old Former Phipps mansion, now whaleboat and an impres- operates as an event Westbury Gardens, the . sive scrimshaw collection. venue and hotel with former Phipps mansion, Just south (Rte. 108 to tours and monthly has a spectacular 200- Rte. 25), is prix-fixe dinners. And, acre garden, with lilac, wisteria and rhododen- dron enhancing paths, ponds and lakes. Tours showcase original archi- tectural details, English antiques and noteworthy art within 44 rooms open to the public. Roslyn Harbor, a vil- lage with its own style, is our final destination, just a couple of miles from Meadowbrook State Pkwy. Here, the Nassau Come out and savor award-winning wines. Stroll along miles of County Museum of Art nearly deserted beaches. Uncover bargains at Hamptons boutiques. features an impressive sculpture garden and Pick up fresh seafood and wholesome veggies at roadside stands. changing exhibits. Once you get a look at our “summer’s over” restaurant and hotel prices, you’ll surely want to extend your stay. For more information: discoverlongisland.com; AAA.com/Travel For a free Travel Guide visit DiscoverLongIsland.com/tg240 eft: © P h ili p S c a li / Al amy photo l eft: or call 1-877-386-6654, ext. 240.

® I LOVE NEW YORK is a registered trademark and service mark of the New York State Department of Economic Development; used with permission. 20 C&T September/October 2012