Coast & Heaths Explorer Guide

Walberswick Highlights of Walberswick 1 Walberswick is located on a spur of high ground, close to the natural Explorer Guide haven of the River Blyth. Whilst the landscape appears unchanging, history shows that coastal change and tidal flooding were ever present. In 1328, a severe storm destroyed much of the ancient port of nearby . The River Dunwich then forged a new path to the sea via Walberswick. Walberswick became a centre for fishing and shipbuilding but its fortunes varied. St Andrews Church fell into such disrepair that it was partially demolished. A smaller church was built within its remains. Today, Walberswick’s economy relies mainly on tourism.

Southwold - Walberswick Ferry. In 1885, following the formation of the River Blyth Ferry Company, a pontoon that could carry a horse and cart was used to cross the river. This was hand-operated by means of chains. In 1911, a larger steam-driven chain ferry was commissioned. This ran until the Enjoy two walks around outbreak of the Second World War, when the ferry was anchored in mid- Walberswick village and stream as part of anti-invasion measures. The ferry broke free and sank. further afield to the coast and Since then, a rowing boat provides the ferry service.

reedbeds. Enjoy village pubs, Images: Front cover: Walberswick Windpump - Malcolm Farrow. A. Walberswick Village Green - a open coastline and forest. Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty popular focal point. B. - Walberswick Ferry c.1900. C. Southwold Light Railway - Travellers c.1910 - Blythweb Ltd/ Archive Project. D. Reedbed and Grazing Marsh - classic landscape features. E. Walberswick Village - view from the Marshes.

Suffolk Coast & Heaths There has been a settlement at Walberswick since at least the time of the Saxons. The Explorer Guide name Walberswick is believed to derive from two Saxon words, “Waldbert” – probably the name of a landowner – and “wyc”, meaning shelter or harbour. The Suffolk Coast & Heaths AONB The Suffolk Coast & Heaths Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) is one of Britain’s finest landscapes. It extends from the Stour estuary in the south to the eastern fringe of and north, to . The AONB 3 The Old Railway. In 1879, a narrow covers 403 square kilometres, including wildlife rich wetlands, ancient gauge railway opened between heaths, windswept shingle beaches and historic towns and villages. and Southwold and included a station at Walberswick. The railway followed the Visiting Walberswick Key to Map southern side of the Blyth valley then Ordnance Survey Explorer Map No 231 AONB area Kessingland crossed the river via a swing bridge. The (Southwold & ) Additional project area Lowestoft

Towns and villages A145 line connected to the Railway, Key to Map A12 Walberswick is approximately Woodland Beccles serving holidaymakers and the . AONB area 3 miles/5 km from the A12 at Heathland Halesworth Additional project area Kessingland A link was added to Southwold Harbour in 1914, but Main roads Southwold Towns and villages A145 Railways/stations A12 River the decline of the fishing industry swiftly followed. Increased competition Public transport information: Woodland Blyth HeathlandSuffolk Coast Path/Stour Blythburgh Walberswick and Orwell Walk HalesworthA144 from road transport and ageing equipment also took their toll and the The nearest train station is . Main roads Southwold Local buses serve Southwold from Railways/stationsSandlings Walk River railway closed in 1929. Blyth Dunwich SuffolkSailor s’Coast Path Path/Stour A1120 Blythburgh Walberswick Halesworth and Lowestoft. You and Orwell Walk A144 SandlingsYou are Whealkre After the Second World War the Bailey footbridge replaced the railway can then walk to Walberswick from Dunwich Sailors’ Path A1120 swing bridge. This bridge provides pedestrian access between Walberswick Southwold (30 mins). You are here Minsmere and Southwold to this day. Public transport information: Framlingham Saxmundham www.suffolkonboard.com or call Leiston

0845 606 6171 Snape Wickham Snape 4 Market River Wickham Aldeburgh Grazing Marsh and Reedbed Southwold Tourist Information: Market Alde characterise the coast between A12 Rendlesham 01728 688303 A12 River River Walberswick and Dunwich. , www.suffolkcoastal.gov.uk/tourism/tics Orford OrfordOre Ore Reedland, Westwood, Corporation WWoodbridgeoodbridge Orfordness Orfordness Sutton Suffolk Coast HooSutton and Oldtown Marshes lie in the Hoo & Heaths AONB Ipswich North Ipswich River North Dunwich River valley where deep A14 Deben Sea 01394 445225 River A14 DebenBawdsey Sea peat overlies river and marine A14 www.suffolkcoastandheaths.org Trimley St Mary/ River Orwell D alluvium. The area was used for A12 A14St Martin Trimley St Mary/ River Orwell A12 A137 St Martin Crown copyright. All rights reserved Suffolk Coast & Heaths AONB fairs in the 1380s. Alton Water © 2012 Suffolk Council. is a partner of the Balance River Stour Licence number 100023395. ManningtreeA137 project, part-financed by the Shotley Mistley Felixstowe Westwood Marsh was claimed from salt marsh through the River Stour Manningtree around 1590. The mid-20th century saw much Interreg IV A 2 Seas Cross- Harwich Mistley re-flooding. This area is now part of the Suffolk Programme. Coast National Nature Reserve. The landscape features grazing cattle on low intensity wet grassland and is dissected by a network of dykes that have some scrubby areas. Printed on Recycled, FSC, ECF, Carbon Balanced paper. Printed on Recycled, FSC, ECF, Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty Wander around Walberswick with its river, heath Walberswick and marshes, or take a longer walk to Dunwich Suffolk Coast & Heaths Explorer Guide

Crown copyright. All rights reserved © 2012 . Licence number 100023395. Tinkers Marsh 3 A12 Southwold

Town Marsh 2 Blythburgh Hill Covert Tinkers Deadmans Covert Walberswick Covert Blythburgh Covert B1387 1 Sallow Walk Covert Hoist Covert

B1125 Old Covert Marshes, Coast and Forest Walberswick Wander Westwood 4 Countryside Marshes A Road Code Point B Road The area has a network of footpaths Fen Marsh Covert C Road and bridleways. We have marked two suggested routes on this map and have a Bridleway/Footpath few simple suggestions to help you enjoy Dunwich Foxburrow 1 ‘Highlights’ Location the area safely and assist our work to care Forest Wood Church for it. Follow the Countryside Code: Plan ahead and follow any signs Public House Schieller’s Dingle Leave things as you find them Grove Marshes Parking Protect plants and animals, control Water Tower Reedland fires and take your litter home Marshes Dunwich Seasonal Ferry Crossing Dogs are welcome, but please Forest Caravan Park Hogs keep them under control Grove Find out more about the Countryside Code: 4 Wooded Area These routes www.countrysideaccess.gov.uk are open to the Marsh Land Dunwich Urban Settlements N Forest public for quiet 1000ft Dunwich recreation. Enjoy 200m your visit. ‘Marshes, Coast ‘Walberswick Distance Distance and Forest’ 6.8 miles (11 km) Wander’ 3 miles (5 km)

Time: 3 - 4 hours Time: 1 hour 30 mins depending on Terrain: Paths and tracks, some of which ferry crossings (Summer time only) can be very muddy at certain times. Please Terrain: Paths and tracks. This walk be aware of tides when walking along the takes you onto public highways. We coastline. At high tides, the coastal route recommend high visibility clothing. may be impassable. Start on Walberswick village green Start on Walberswick village green, A facing Ferry Road. Turn left and DC facing Ferry Road and turn right then left again onto the road at the towards the village hall, following the top (N end) of the village green road as it bears right onto The Street. (Leverett’s Lane). B just Take the footpath on your left Take the second track to your right, before you reach The Anchor pub. signed ‘Bridleway’. Take the right fork, then the left fork, Follow this track and bear right You should now then turn left again. onto a Footpath when you reach the be on the with the ‘Footpath’ sign. narrow Dunwich River immediately E Coas Coas Coas olk t P olk t P olk t P ff at ff at ff at u h u h u h on your left (look outS for theS S Follow this path across Walberswick

O y r r fo r Continue following the path Common and bear right again down Cross over the Bailey bridge and Suffolk Coast Path markerr e discs). d F O p Loo via rfo oo p rd L for approximately 1.5km to a track (Palmer’s Lane) when you turn right, keeping the River Blyth d Orw d Orw d Orw an ell an ell an ell r W r W r W u a u a u a o l o l o l t k t k t k Follow the Suffolk S Coast PathS S the edge of , reach another ‘Footpath’ sign. on your right. Go past the boat passing the derelict across marshes, I I nl e ps p and Rout wich Loo then follow the track with yards, chandleries and fisherman’s Walberswick windpump. The marshes Bear right at the next the forest on your right and sheds of the Harbour and cross support scarce wildlife, such as the ‘Footpath’ sign on your left. over the river on the foot bittern, that depends on fresh water and head down When the road is reached at ferry to bring you back into but these marshes are at risk of towards the river Bridge Farm on the edge of Walberswick. When the ferry becoming saline if sea defences cannot and Southwold, Dunwich, turn left. is not running, it’s possible to be sustained. following the do a similar walk by keeping From Dunwich, you can route of the former to the Walberswick side of the either retrace your route, or Southwold Light C River Blyth instead of crossing walk back along the beach Railway. Look out the River on the Bailey Bridge. to Walberswick. The top of for the disused windmill the shingle bank provides across the reedbed. On leaving the Ferry turn left. the best views but the You soon reach Ferry Road which Images: A. Silver-studded Blue - seen on heathland sandier shoreline makes for in summer. B. The Open Coast - beautiful throughout runs between the two car parking the year - M Watson. C. Bittern - creeps through the an easier walk. In winter, wetlands - Do Van Dijck/FN/Minden/FLPA. D. Otter - areas. Keep walking along Ferry however, the beach route elusive resident of the reedbeds.- Simon Litten/FLPA. which takes you back into E. The Bailey Bridge - a vital link. F. Walberswick Road may be impassable. Harbour - a welcome refuge in bad weather. the village.