©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Hiking & Tramping in New Zealand
Northland, Auckland & Coromandel p54 Tongariro, Urewera & Central North Island p84
Abel Tasman, Kahurangi & Taranaki, Whanganui & Nelson Lakes Around Wellington p165 p110
Queen Charlotte & Marlborough West Coast p144 p237 Canterbury, Arthur's Fiordland & Pass & Aoraki/Mt Cook Stewart p202 Island/Rakiura p285 Mt Aspiring National Park & Around Queenstown p258
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Sarah Bennett & Lee Slater, Jim DuFresne PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE TRACK
Welcome to New Zealand. . . 4 NORTHLAND, AUCKLAND Mt Taranaki Summit . . . . 121 & COROMANDEL. . . . . 54 Whanganui New Zealand Map...... 6 National Park ...... 121 Te Paki Coastal Track. . . . . 56 New Zealand’s Matemateaonga Track. . . 123 Rangitoto Island Loop. . . . 61 Nine Great Walks...... 8 Mangapurua & Aotea Track...... 64 Kaiwhakauka Tracks . . . . 126 Need to Know...... 14 Hillary Trail ...... 69 Ruahine Forest Park. . . 129 If You Like ...... 16 Kauaeranga Kauri Trail . . . 75 Rangiwahia & Deadmans Loop...... 130 Itineraries ...... 20 Towns & Facilities. . . . . 80 Auckland...... 80 Tararua Forest Park. . . 132 Outdoor Pursuits. . . . . 28 Kaitaia ...... 81 Mt Holdsworth-Jumbo Circuit...... 134 New Zealand’s Birds . . . . 34 Tryphena...... 82 Thames ...... 83 Holdsworth-Kaitoke Safety in the Outdoors. . . 38 Track...... 136 Towns & Facilities. . . . 139 Clothing, Equipment & TONGARIRO, UREWERA New Plymouth ...... 139 Food ...... 45 & CENTRAL NORTH Stratford ...... 140 Regions at a Glance. . . . 50 ISLAND ...... 84 Whanganui ...... 140 Tongariro National Park. . . 86 Palmerston North . . . . . 141 Tongariro Northern Circuit...... 89 Masterton ...... 142 STEVE CLANCY PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / PHOTOGRAPHY CLANCY STEVE Kaimanawa Forest Park . . 93 Wellington...... 142 Umukarikari-Urchin Circuit...... 94 QUEEN CHARLOTTE & Te Urewara MARLBOROUGH. . . 144 National Park ...... 96 Queen Charlotte Lake Waikaremoana Track...... 146 Great Walk...... 98 Nydia Track...... 152 Ruapani Circuit...... 101 Pelorus Track ...... 154 Whirinaki Te Pua a Tane Conservation Park. . . 103 Kaikoura Coast Track. . . . 159 Whirinaki Track...... 104 Towns & Facilities. . . . 162 BOTTLENOSE DOLPHIN P29 Towns & Facilities. . . . 107 Picton...... 162 Whakapapa Village. . . . . 107 Havelock ...... 163 National Park ...... 107 Kaikoura...... 164 Turangi...... 108 VLADIMIR PISKUNOV /GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES /GETTY PISKUNOV VLADIMIR Murupara...... 108 ABEL TASMAN, Wairoa ...... 109 KAHURANGI & NELSON LAKES. . . 165 TARANAKI, Abel Tasman WHANGANUI & National Park ...... 168 Abel Tasman AROUND Coast Track...... 169 WELLINGTON. . . . .110 Kahurangi Egmont National Park. . .112 National Park ...... 174 Pouakai Circuit...... 115 Heaphy Track ...... 175 Pouakai Crossing. . . . . 118 Wangapeka Track...... 180 EMERALD LAKES P92 Around the Tableland Circuit . . . . . 184 Mountain Circuit . . . . . 119 Contents
UNDERSTAND
Nelson Lakes Westland Tai Poutini New Zealand National Park ...... 187 National Park ...... 250 Today ...... 322 Lake Angelus Track . . . . 191 Welcome Flat ...... 251 History...... 324 Travers-Sabine Towns & Facilities. . . . . 254 Circuit...... 193 Westport ...... 254 Environment...... 334 St Arnaud Range Punakaiki...... 255 Track...... 196 Greymouth ...... 255 Towns & Facilities. . . . 197 Franz Josef Glacier ...... 256 Nelson ...... 197 SURVIVAL Motueka...... 198 Fox Glacier...... 256 GUIDE Marahau...... 199 MT ASPIRING NATIONAL Takaka ...... 199 Directory A–Z...... 342 Karamea ...... 200 PARK & AROUND QUEENSTOWN. . . . .258 Transport...... 354 St Arnaud ...... 201 Routeburn Track...... 261 Glossary...... 361 Greenstone Caples CANTERBURY, Track...... 265 Index...... 364 ARTHUR’S PASS & Mavora–Greenstone Map Legend...... 375 AORAKI/MT COOK. . . 202 Walkway...... 269 Banks Peninsula Rees-Dart Track...... 272 Track...... 204 Matukituki Mt Somers Track ...... 208 Valley Tracks...... 275 St James Walkway. . . . . 212 Gillespie Arthur’s Pass Pass Circuit...... 278 National Park ...... 216 Towns & Facilities. . . . 282 Avalanche Peak ...... 218 Queenstown ...... 282 Goat Pass Track...... 220 Glenorchy ...... 283 Harper Pass ...... 222 Wanaka ...... 283 Cass-Lagoon Saddles Track...... 226 FIORDLAND & STEWART Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park ...... 228 ISLAND/RAKIURA . . 285 Mueller Hut Route. . . . .230 Fiordland National Park. . . 287 Towns & Facilities. . . . 232 Milford Track...... 290 Christchurch...... 232 Hollyford Track...... 295 Akaroa...... 233 Kepler Track ...... 300 © SLATER & BENNETT Methven...... 234 Hump Ridge Track. . . . .303 Hanmer Springs...... 234 Stewart Island/ Rakiura...... 307 Arthur’s Pass ...... 235 Rakiura Track ...... 308 Mt Cook Village...... 235 North West Circuit. . . . . 312 Towns & Facilities. . . . 316 WEST COAST. . . . . 237 Te Anau ...... 316 The Old Ghost Road Tuatapere...... 317 Track...... 240 Invercargill...... 317 Paparoa National Park. . . 243 Oban...... 318 Inland Pack Track...... 244 MT NGAURUHOE P90 Croesus Track...... 247 ga
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Na N Tr A ack E ack alks (p1 S S ack Tr A S M A y Tr T T ondrous, popular eaph Routeburn Tr W epler Tr H asman Coast alpine crossing (p261) Milford K y loop track on the °S of the Great W and azure waters (p169) stcard-perfect beaches Po 46 Loft Abel T The longest and most diverse Glaciated valleys, waterfall °S and alpine splendour (p290) fringes of Fiordland (p300) 42 44°S ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 20
Itineraries
TASMAN SEA Arthur's Pass National Park ÷#•#
Aoraki/Mt Cook É
National Park É •# Christchurch ÷#R •#
Lake Tekapo Milford É Sound •#
É É •# Queenstown SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN
2 WEEKS Southern Highlights
Wing into resurgent Christchurch and stock up on supplies before tramping some of the South Island’s best tracks. Dive in at the deep end in Arthur’s Pass National Park by summiting Avalanche Peak, a strenuous but rewarding day walk rivalling the best in the land. Take the Inland Scenic Route south to Lake Tekapo, arriving in time to tour the night skies at Mt John Observatory. The views here are just as impressive during the daytime, too. Get up early and drive to Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park, allowing you time to tramp in to Mueller Hut, one of New Zealand’s highest. Make your way south to buzzy Queenstown, stopping to sample Central Otago wines and perhaps do a bungy jump at Kawarau Bridge along the way. Soak up some hospital- ity before setting off the following day for the Routeburn Track, NZ’s second-most- popular Great Walk. Having traversed the Southern Alps, take a day off and ogle Milford Sound on a boat trip or scenic flight. Return to Queenstown on foot via the Greenstone or Caples Tracks, two distinctly different river valleys that meet near the shores of Lake Wakatipu. 21
Cape •# Reinga
É •# Bay of Islands
É É
•# •#Coromandel
Auckland É Peninsula TASMAN TRIP YOUR PLAN SEA •# Rotorua •# Taupo ÷#Tongariro
National Park Abel Tasman É National Park
÷# Kahurangi ÷# É #_
National Park WELLINGTON It É
Punakaiki •# ÷# i
Nelson Lakes ar ner É National Park Franz Josef Glacier •# Welcome Flat •# •# Christchurch i es Siberia Valley•# É Milford Sound •# •#Wanaka #– SOUTH •# É PACIFIC Queenstown OCEAN
6–8 WEEKS The Grand Tour
Kick off your tramping bonanza in metropolitan Auckland. Warm up with a day tramp on the volcanic island of Rangitoto, before driving north via the beautiful Bay of Islands. Pilgrimage to NZ’s northernmost point, Cape Reinga, on Te Paki Coastal Track. Head south to the sun-soaked Coromandel Peninsula, to explore its myriad attrac- tions as well as venturing in to Kauaeranga Valley to scale the Pinnacles. Travel south, pit-stopping at Rotorua and Taupo to marvel at geothermal wonders and Maori cul- ture. The volcanic landscapes of Tongariro National Park could burn up a week; make a beeline for the Northern Circuit, or if time is tight, traverse the Tongariro Alpine Cross- ing – arguably the world’s finest day walk. Head to Wellington and interact in the national museum, Te Papa Tongarewa, then savour the city’s great restaurants and bars. Having crossed Cook Strait and cruised the Marlborough Sounds, stop in at vibrant Nelson on the way to Abel Tasman National Park and its golden beaches and turquoise waters. Walk, kayak or sail your way around. Two more national parks – Kahurangi and Nelson Lakes – lie nearby. Tramp the Heaphy or Lake Angelus, on your way to the wild West Coast. Follow the stunning Tas- man Sea coast road past Paparoa National Park, pausing at Punakaiki’s pancake rocks. Walk the half-day Pororari River Loop if you can’t fit in the whole Inland Pack Track. Keep on trucking south towards glacier country. Call in at the West Coast Wildlife Centre in Franz Josef Glacier to coo over the kiwi chicks, before tramping into Wel- come Flat for a well-earned soak in the hot springs. Having cleared Haast Pass, the Siberia Valley awaits. Go in on foot, plane, jetboat, or even all three. Don’t miss pretty lakeside Wanaka, from where you can head into Mt Aspiring National Park via the Matukituki Valley, then head over the Crown Range to adrenaline capital, Queenstown. Take your pick from some of NZ’s most fabulous walks – the Routeburn, Greenstone Caples and Rees-Dart. Head round to postcard-perfect Milford Sound, arriving by car through the Homer Tunnel or on foot via the Milford Track, NZ’s most famous Great Walk. Fly or drive to Christchurch from Queenstown and you’re done. 22
Auckland •#
É
Rotorua TASMAN •# É SEA Waitomo Caves •# É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN ÷#Te Urewera
É National Park Tongariro÷#
National Park É •#Napier
Abel Tasman National Park
÷# É Kahurangi ÷# Picton National Park •#É •#
It Nelson É •#
i Queen Charlotte
e ar ner Nelson Lakes É National Park÷# Track #– St James Walkway •# •# •# Kaikoura
Hanmer Springs i É
es É Christchurch É •#É •# SOUTH Banks PACIFIC Peninsula OCEAN Track
4 WEEKS The Gentle Option
Ease into things with a couple of days in Christchurch, before taking in dramatic coastlines, secluded bays and remnant forest on the private Banks Peninsula Track. Head inland to the hot pools of Hanmer Springs, priming yourself for the five-day St James Walkway through subalpine river valleys and over two easy mountain passes. Continue through Lewis Pass to Nelson Lakes National Park, a wonderful place for low-level nature walks if you don’t fancy the Mt Robert or St Arnaud Range climbs. Meander through the Motueka Valley, popping in to the Tableland within Kahurangi National Park, before hitting Abel Tasman National Park, exploring the idyllic coast by boat, kayak or on foot. Or all three. Indulge in Nelson’s fine local food and wine, then wind your way eastwards to Pic- ton via the scenic Queen Charlotte Drive. Cruise through the Marlborough Sounds, then hit the Queen Charlotte Track while your bags are ferried ahead of you by water taxi. Take a restorative tour of Marlborough’s world-class wineries. Complete your loop back to Christchurch via Kaikoura, where you can whale-watch, bird-watch and swim with seals and dolphins, before embarking on your last South Island tramp, the Kaikoura Coast Track. Fly to Rotorua to soak up some Maori culture and a good dose of sulphur at the region’s many geothermal delights, then venture into mystical Te Urewera National Park to complete the Lake Waikaremoana Great Walk. Be sure to take time to row on pristine Lake Waikareiti if at all possible. Head southwards to art deco Napier in sunny Hawke’s Bay. Gorge yourself on the region’s ample produce, then burn off the calories on its flat (!) cycling trails. Onward to Taupo, the lakeside resort just a stone’s throw from Tongariro National Park and the legendary Tongariro Alpine Crossing. Check out the twinkling glowworms of Waitomo Caves before heading to Auckland, where day tramps abound – out to volcanic Rangitoto Island or Great Barrier Island in the Hauraki Gulf, or the Hillary Trail on the rugged east coast just an hour from downtown. 23
Alpine Explorer North Island National Parks
Auckland •# É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN
É Rotorua •#É
Waitomo Caves •# Te Urewera É •# É ÷# National Park Egmont Taupo National Park ÷# ÷# ÷# TASMAN Tongariro National Park SEA Whanganui National Park
Nelson •#É
It Punakaiki É Nelson Lakes •# ÷# i National Park ar ner Aoraki/Mt Cook ÷# Arthur’s Pass
National Park É National Park ÷#
i Mt Aspiring É National Park ÷# es
É SOUTH •# PACIFIC Queenstown OCEA N
North Island 2 Alpine Explorer 2 WEEKS WEEKS National Parks
Start in vibrant Nelson before heading From glitzy Auckland, head south to the on this lofty tour along the spine of NZ’s unique geothermal hot spot of Rotorua, Southern Alps. Drive to St Arnaud, gate- where geysers, bubbling mud, steaming way to Nelson Lakes National Park, vents and authentic Maori performances where the Lake Angelus Track climbs up await. Venture into the densely forested Te Robert Ridge for panoramic views of the Urewera National Park and complete Southern Alps. the Lake Waikaremoana Great Walk, before driving to to leap out of a Wend your way through the wild Taupo plane, raft a river or catch a trout. Buller Gorge to the West Coast and take in Punakaiki’s Pancake Rocks, before head- Nearby is volcanic Tongariro National ing east to Arthur’s Pass National Park. Park, home to the Northern Circuit Great Tackle your first mountain saddle, either Walk. One of its sections is the Tongariro Goat Pass or Cass-Lagoon Saddles Track. Alpine Crossing, one of the world’s most Top this off with one of the country’s best famous day tramps. Next up is the Great day walk, Avalanche Peak. Through the Walk that is actually a river paddle: the pass, stick close to the mountains on the 145km Whanganui Journey through the Inland Scenic Route through to Tekapo North Island’s largest lowland wilderness, and Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park, Whanganui National Park. where you can climb to Mueller Hut for Truck west to Egmont National views of NZ’s highest mountain. Park and the near-symmetrical cone of Epic scenery abounds southwards to Mt Taranaki, which can be explored on a Central Otago and the lakeside town of network of high-altitude tracks. Loop back Wanaka. Tramp high above the Matukituki to Auckland via Waitomo Caves where Valley in Mt Aspiring National Park on you can ogle upwards at glowworms or, Cascade Saddle and French Ridge. Finally, if you’re game, don a wetsuit and explore knock off another pass on the Routeburn, deep into subterranean labyrinthine pas- a popular Great Walk, before taking in the sages and caverns. razzle-dazzle of Queenstown. 24
NORTHLAND, AUCKLAND & COROMANDEL BEST TIME GETTING TRACK DURATION DIFFICULTY TO GO THERE WHY GO? Te Paki 3 days easy year-round bus Tramp spectacular beach- Coastal Track es and the rugged coast
PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN (p56) around New Zealand’s northern tip Rangitoto 4–5 hours easy year-round boat Climb a volcano and tramp Island Loop through lava fields, enjoy- (p61) ing one of the best views of central Auckland Aotea Track 3 days moderate Oct–May bus Wander a rugged island
It (p64) with historic kauri dams i
e ar ner and hot springs Hillary Trail 4 days moderate– year-round bus, train, Explore a wilderness-like (p69) demanding private setting only one hour’s i
es drive from Auckland Kauaeranga 2 days easy– Oct–May shuttle bus Step back in time with log- Kauri Trail moderate ging and gold-mining relics (p75) on the forested hills of the Coromandel Peninsula
TONGARIRO, UREWERA & CENTRAL NORTH ISLAND BEST TIME GETTING TRACK DURATION DIFFICULTY TO GO THERE WHY GO? Tongariro 4 days moderate Dec–Mar shuttle bus Tramp past volcanoes and Northern through a spectacular Circuit (p89) thermal area on this Great Walk Umukarikari- 2 days moderate Nov–Apr bus, shuttle View the Tongariro volca- Urchin Circuit bus noes from a neighbouring (p94) forest park Lake Waikare- 4 days easy– Nov–Apr shuttle bus, Enjoy beaches, swimming moana Great moderate boat and fishing on this Great Walk (p98) Walk Ruapani 2 days easy– Nov–Apr no trans- Follow a remote river route Circuit (p101) moderate port with plenty of fords and fishing opportunities Whirinaki 2 days easy Nov–Apr shuttle bus Explore a lush forest with Track (p104) caves and an impressive gorge 25
TARANAKI, WHANGANUI & AROUND WELLINGTON BEST TIME GETTING TRACK DURATION DIFFICULTY TO GO THERE WHY GO? Pouakai 2 days moderate Oct–May shuttle bus Beat the elements and Circuit (p115) explore the bush while
circuiting a stunning TRIP YOUR PLAN volcano Pouakai 1 day moderate Oct–May shuttle bus As above Crossing (p118) Around the 5 days moderate– Oct–May shuttle bus As above Mountain Cir- demanding cuit (p119) It i Mt Taranaki 1 day moderate– Jan–Mar shuttle bus As above ar ner Summit demanding (p121) i Matem- 4 days easy– Oct–May shuttle bus, Wander along an isolated es ateaonga moderate boat wilderness track, ending Track (p123) with a thrilling jetboat ride on the Whanganui River Mangapurua 3 days easy– Oct–May shuttle bus, Pass through the sites of & Kaiwhakau- moderate boat old settlers’ farms and ka Tracks grassy flats with small (p126) stands of exotic trees Rangiwahia 3 days moderate– Jan & Feb shuttle bus, Explore lightly used ridges & Deadmans demanding private and valleys in Ruahine Loop (p130) Forest Park Mt 3 days moderate– Oct–May private, taxi Stay in scenic huts and Holdsworth- demanding admire views from an Jumbo alpine ridge in Tararua Circuit (p134) Forest Park Holdsworth- 3 days moderate Oct–May private, Follow pleasant river val- Kaitoke Track train, taxi leys through the Tararua (p136) Range
QUEEN CHARLOTTE & MARLBOROUGH BEST TIME GETTING TRACK DURATION DIFFICULTY TO GO THERE WHY GO? Queen 4 days moderate Nov–Dec boat, shuttle Treat yourself to beautiful Charlotte & Feb–Apr bus coastal scenery and in- Track (p146) teresting accommodation options Nydia Track 2 days easy Nov–Dec boat, shuttle Cross two saddles and (p152) & Feb–Apr bus explore a sheltered shoreline Pelorus Track 3 days moderate Oct–Apr shuttle bus Tussle with trout or take (p154) a dip in the deep green pools of the Pelorus River Kaikoura 3 days easy– Dec–Mar bus Enjoy following the Pacific Coast Track moderate coast by day and staying (p159) at farms by night 26
ABEL TASMAN, KAHURANGI & NELSON LAKES BEST TIME TO GETTING TRACK DURATION DIFFICULTY GO THERE WHY GO? Abel Tasman 5 days easy year- boat, Explore a series of beautiful
PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Coast Track round shuttle beaches and bays on this (p169) bus Great Walk Heaphy 5 days moderate Nov–Apr shuttle Follow in historic footsteps Track (p175) bus, plane and enjoy a stunning variety of scenery on this Great Walk Wangapeka 5 days moderate Nov–Apr shuttle bus Climb two 1000m saddles and Track (p180) wander beech-forested valleys
It Tableland 3 days moderate Nov–Apr shuttle bus Combine great trout fishing i e ar ner Circuit with the dramatic scenery of (p184) an earthquake-torn valley Lake Angelus 2 days moderate Nov–Apr shuttle Climb a challenging alpine i es Track (p191) bus, boat pass, tempered by the beauty of Blue Lake Travers- 5 days moderate– Nov–Apr shuttle Explore grassy river flats, Sabine demanding bus, boat beech forests and two alpine Circuit saddles (p193)
CANTERBURY, ARTHUR'S PASS & AORAKI/MT COOK BEST TIME TO GETTING TRACK DURATION DIFFICULTY GO THERE WHY GO? Banks Penin- 4 days easy– Oct–Apr shuttle bus Take in wonderful seascapes sula Track moderate and wildlife on this private (p204) track Mt Somers 2 days moderate Nov–Mar shuttle bus Tramp the subalpine areas Track (p208) around Mt Somers, soaking in refreshing pools at night St James 5 days easy– Nov–Apr bus, Cross two low passes while en- Walkway moderate shuttle joying fine mountain scenery (p212) bus Avalanche 1 day moderate Nov–Mar no Climb high above Arthur’s Pass Peak (p218) transport on the South Island’s most scenic day tramp Goat Pass 2 days moderate Nov–Mar shuttle bus Spend a night high above the Track (p220) bushline in Goat Pass Hut Harper Pass 5 days moderate Nov–Mar bus, Follow a historic gold-mining (p222) shuttle route over a low pass bus Cass-Lagoon 2 days moderate Nov–Feb bus, Admire spectacular views from Saddles shuttle two alpine saddles Track (p226) bus, train Mueller Hut 2 days demanding Nov–Mar none Climb steeply to spend a night Route (p230) among the spectacular peaks of Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park 27
WEST COAST BEST TIME TO GETTING TRACK DURATION DIFFICULTY GO THERE WHY GO? The Old 5 days moderate Nov–May bus, shuttle Traverse native forests, river
Ghost Road bus flats and valleys with stunning TRIP YOUR PLAN Track (p240) views of Mokihinui Gorge Inland Pack 2 days moderate Dec–Mar shuttle bus, Admire an unusual karst Track (p244) private landscape and stay in one of NZ’s largest rock bivvies Croesus 2 days moderate Nov–Mar shuttle bus Retrace history on a subalpine Track (p247) track loaded with mining relics It i e ar ner
MT ASPIRING NATIONAL PARK & AROUND QUEENSTOWN
BEST TIME GETTING i TRACK DURATION DIFFICULTY TO GO THERE WHY GO? es Routeburn 3 days moderate Oct–Apr shuttle bus Explore one of NZ’s best Track (p261) alpine crossings on this Great Walk Greenstone 4 days moderate Nov–Apr shuttle bus Enjoy moderate tramping and Caples Track legendary fishing (p265) Mavora- 3 days easy Nov–Apr shuttle bus, Savour the solitude, impres- Greenstone plane sive alpine scenery and trout Walkway fishing of the Mavora Valley (p269) Rees-Dart 4 days moderate Dec–Apr shuttle bus, Cross an alpine pass dividing Track (p272) jetboat two splendid valleys Matukituki 2–5 days easy– Dec–Mar shuttle bus Experience the beauty of the Valley Tracks demanding Matukituki Valley's private (p275) farmland and beech forest flats
FIORDLAND & STEWART ISLAND/RAKIURA BEST TIME TO GETTING TRACK DURATION DIFFICULTY GO THERE WHY GO? Milford 4 days moderate Oct–Apr shuttle bus, Experience lush rainforests, an Track (p290) boat alpine pass and waterfalls along the ʻfinest walk in the worldʼ Hollyford 5 days easy– Oct–May shuttle bus, Tramp to the rugged coast and Track (p295) moderate jet-boat, explore the wildlife of plane Martins Bay Kepler Track 4 days moderate Oct–Apr shuttle bus, Spend a full day surrounded by (p300) boat alpine beauty on this Great Walk Hump Ridge 3 days moderate Nov–Apr shuttle bus Explore a spectacular coast Track (p303) and intriguing logging relics Rakiura 3 days moderate Oct–Apr boat, plane Follow sheltered shores and Track (p308) beautiful beaches North West 11 days demanding Oct–Apr boat, plane Slog through mud to wild Mason Circuit Bay; admire beaches and birdlife (p312) ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
AOUR beat-up oldSTORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Sarah Bennett & Lee Slater Coordinating Authors Sarah and Lee live in hilly Wellington, but spend many months on the road each year in their small campervan, boots on board, bikes on the back, living like kings on morsels of cheese, craft beer and fresh air. Spe- cialists in ‘soft-core adventure’ (tramping without crampons, kayaking without capsize), they relive their journeys in magazine features and guidebooks includ- ing Let’s Go Camping and Lonely Planet’s New Zealand. For more information, visit www.bennettandslater.co.nz.
Jim DuFresne Author of the previous edition Jim first came to New Zealand more than 20 years ago in search of high peaks and wild places. He found both, along with some fine trout fishing, and has been returning ever since with his backpack and fly rod in hand. Jim began his writing career as the sports and outdoors editor of the Juneau Empire and was the first Alaskan sportswriter to win a national award from Associated Press. Today he lives in Michigan and feeds his appetite for the alpine world with frequent trips to Alaska and New Zealand, having authored Lonely Planet’s Alaska, Hiking in Alaska and the previous editions of this guidebook. Read more about Jim at: lonelyplanet.com/members/kidven
Contributing Authors Professor James Belich wrote the History chapter (p324). James is one of NZ’s pre-eminent historians and the award-winning author of The New Zealand Wars, Making Peoples and Paradise Reforged. He has also worked in TV – New Zealand Wars was screened in NZ in 1998.
Tony Horwitz wrote the Captain James Cook boxed text (p327) in the History chapter. Tony is a Pulitzer-winning reporter and nonfiction author. His fascination with James Cook, and with travel, took him around NZ, Australia and the Pacific while researching Blue Latitudes (alternatively titled Into the Blue), part biography of Cook and part travelogue.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 7th edition – April 2014 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74179 017 7 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2014 Photographs © as indicated 2014 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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