Hiking & Tramping in New Zealand 7
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Hiking & Tramping in New Zealand Northland, Auckland & Coromandel p54 Tongariro, Urewera & Central North Island p84 Abel Tasman, Kahurangi & Taranaki, Whanganui & Nelson Lakes Around Wellington p165 p110 Queen Charlotte & Marlborough West Coast p144 p237 Canterbury, Arthur's Fiordland & Pass & Aoraki/Mt Cook Stewart p202 Island/Rakiura p285 Mt Aspiring National Park & Around Queenstown p258 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Sarah Bennett & Lee Slater, Jim DuFresne PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE TRACK Welcome to New Zealand . 4 NORTHLAND, AUCKLAND Mt Taranaki Summit . 121 & COROMANDEL . 54 Whanganui New Zealand Map . .6 National Park . .121 Te Paki Coastal Track . 56 New Zealand’s Matemateaonga Track . 123 Rangitoto Island Loop . 61 Nine Great Walks . .8 Mangapurua & Aotea Track . 64 Kaiwhakauka Tracks . 126 Need to Know . .14 Hillary Trail . 69 Ruahine Forest Park . 129 If You Like . .16 Kauaeranga Kauri Trail . 75 Rangiwahia & Deadmans Loop . 130 Itineraries . 20 Towns & Facilities . 80 Auckland . .80 Tararua Forest Park . 132 Outdoor Pursuits . 28 Kaitaia . 81 Mt Holdsworth-Jumbo Circuit . 134 New Zealand’s Birds . 34 Tryphena . 82 Thames . 83 Holdsworth-Kaitoke Safety in the Outdoors . 38 Track . 136 Towns & Facilities . 139 Clothing, Equipment & TONGARIRO, UREWERA New Plymouth . 139 Food . 45 & CENTRAL NORTH Stratford . 140 Regions at a Glance . 50 ISLAND . 84 Whanganui . 140 Tongariro National Park . 86 Palmerston North . 141 Tongariro Northern Circuit . 89 Masterton . 142 STEVE CLANCY PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES © Kaimanawa Forest Park . 93 Wellington . 142 Umukarikari-Urchin Circuit . 94 QUEEN CHARLOTTE & Te Urewara MARLBOROUGH . 144 National Park . 96 Queen Charlotte Lake Waikaremoana Track . 146 Great Walk . 98 Nydia Track . 152 Ruapani Circuit . 101 Pelorus Track . 154 Whirinaki Te Pua a Tane Conservation Park . 103 Kaikoura Coast Track . 159 Whirinaki Track . 104 Towns & Facilities . 162 BOTTLENOSE DOLPHIN P29 Towns & Facilities . 107 Picton . 162 Whakapapa Village . 107 Havelock . 163 National Park . 107 Kaikoura . 164 Turangi . 108 VLADIMIR PISKUNOV /GETTY IMAGES © Murupara . 108 ABEL TASMAN, Wairoa . 109 KAHURANGI & NELSON LAKES . 165 TARANAKI, Abel Tasman WHANGANUI & National Park . 168 Abel Tasman AROUND Coast Track . 169 WELLINGTON . .110 Kahurangi Egmont National Park . .112 National Park . 174 Pouakai Circuit . 115 Heaphy Track . 175 Pouakai Crossing . 118 Wangapeka Track . 180 EMERALD LAKES P92 Around the Tableland Circuit . 184 Mountain Circuit . 119 Contents UNDERSTAND Nelson Lakes Westland Tai Poutini New Zealand National Park . 187 National Park . 250 Today . 322 Lake Angelus Track . 191 Welcome Flat . 251 History . 324 Travers-Sabine Towns & Facilities . 254 Circuit . 193 Westport . .254 Environment . 334 St Arnaud Range Punakaiki . 255 Track . 196 Greymouth . 255 Towns & Facilities . 197 Franz Josef Glacier . .256 Nelson . 197 SURVIVAL Motueka . 198 Fox Glacier . .256 GUIDE Marahau . 199 MT ASPIRING NATIONAL Takaka . 199 Directory A–Z . 342 Karamea . .200 PARK & AROUND QUEENSTOWN . .258 Transport . 354 St Arnaud . 201 Routeburn Track . 261 Glossary . .361 Greenstone Caples CANTERBURY, Track . .265 Index . 364 ARTHUR’S PASS & Mavora–Greenstone Map Legend . 375 AORAKI/MT COOK . 202 Walkway . .269 Banks Peninsula Rees-Dart Track . 272 Track . .204 Matukituki Mt Somers Track . .208 Valley Tracks . 275 St James Walkway . 212 Gillespie Arthur’s Pass Pass Circuit . 278 National Park . 216 Towns & Facilities . 282 Avalanche Peak . 218 Queenstown . .282 Goat Pass Track . .220 Glenorchy . .283 Harper Pass . 222 Wanaka . .283 Cass-Lagoon Saddles Track . .226 FIORDLAND & STEWART Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park . 228 ISLAND/RAKIURA . 285 Mueller Hut Route . .230 Fiordland National Park . 287 Towns & Facilities . 232 Milford Track . .290 Christchurch . 232 Hollyford Track . .295 Akaroa . 233 Kepler Track . .300 BENNETT & SLATER © Methven . .234 Hump Ridge Track . .303 Hanmer Springs . .234 Stewart Island/ Rakiura . 307 Arthur’s Pass . 235 Rakiura Track . .308 Mt Cook Village . 235 North West Circuit . 312 Towns & Facilities . 316 WEST COAST . 237 Te Anau . 316 The Old Ghost Road Tuatapere . 317 Track . .240 Invercargill . 317 Paparoa National Park . 243 Oban . 318 Inland Pack Track . .244 MT NGAURUHOE P90 Croesus Track . 247 Hiking & Tramping in New Zealand Cape Reinga 172°E Grea 174°E 176°E 170°E t 178°E 168°E Exhibition Bay 166°E S O U T H Bay of P A C I F I C Kaitaia#\ Kerikeri Islands O C E A N #\ Russell #\ e# 0 200 km #\ 0 100 miles #\ Paihia Opononi #\ Kaikohe Lake Waikaremoana #] Circuit a remote lake through Northland Whangarei North Island forest (p98) Dargaville #\ Great Barrier Island 36°S #\Wellsford Kaipara Harbour Hauraki Helensville#\ Gulf Tongariro Northern Whitianga Circuit #] #\ Coromande Explore the volcanoes (p89) Auckland Drury l #\ Peninsula #\ #\ Pukekohe Thames Hicks Huntly #\ Mt Maunganui Bay T A S M A N Ngaruawahia #\ #\ Te Kaha #\ #] #\ S E A Hamilton #\ Raglan #\ #] TaurangaBay of Te Araroa #\Cambridge Plenty #\ #\ Kawhia #\ Waikato Opotiki Ruatoria #] Whakatane #\ Otorohanga Tokomaru Bay #\ Waitomo Caves#\ #] Rotorua #÷ 38°S Te Kuiti Te Urewera #\ National Park Tolaga Whanganui Journey #] Bay Lake Taupo #] The Great Walk that’s Taupo Gisboern a paddle (p128) New Plymouth #\ Turangi Wairoa #] Whanganui #\ Egmont National Park #÷ National Park #÷R Tongariro Mt TaranakiR R National Park #\ #÷ Hawke (Mt Egmont) (2518m) #\ Bay #\ St3ratford 3Mt Ruapehu (2797m) #] Opunake #\ Ohakune Napier Hawera #]Hastings Waipawa Whanganui #] #\ #\ Waipukurau Palmerston #\Dannevirke 40°S North #] #\ vWood ille #\ Levin Abel Tasman Coast Track Collingwood #\Golden Bay Marlborough 3Abel Tasman Sounds Postcard-perfect beaches #\ Takaka #÷ National Park Upper and azure waters (p169) Kahurangi #\Masterton #÷ Motueka Tasman Porirua Hutt National Park #\ #] #] Bay Picton #] Karamea #\ #] #] #_ Lower Hutt Heaphy Track Richmond #\ Nelson Co 3 #] Wellington Mt OwenR o The longest and most diverse (1875m) Blenheim k St Cape of the Great Walks (p175) Westport Murchison r #] #\ #\ St Arnaud a Palliser i Paparoa Lake Lake Rotoiti t National Park roa #÷ T A S M A N #÷ Roto Nelson Lakes S E A #\ #\ National Park Punakaiki Reefton #\ 42°S #\ Kaikoura Greymouth Arthur's Pass #\ National Park Hanmer Springs Routeburn Track Hokitika #] #÷ #\ Wondrous, popular Ross #\ R Arthur's Pass alpine crossing (p261) Mt Murchison Westland Tai P (24oom) outini Whataroa Pegasus National Park #\ #÷ #\ Bay #\ Franz Josef Glacier Fox Glacier #\ #]Christchurch #÷ Mt Hutt #\ S O U T H R Aoraki/ #\ Lyttelton Aoraki/Mt Cook Mt Cook Methven P A C I F I C (3754m) #\ Banks O C E A N National Park #\ Akaroa Milford Track Haast #\ Peninsula Lake Lake Ashburton Glaciated valleys, waterfalls Jackson Bay #\ Pukaki Tekapo c and alpine splendour (p290) Haast #\ #\ Temuka Mt Aspiring Pass Twizel #\ 44°S National Park Lake Ohau Timaru Rakiura Track #÷ Lake #\ Wanaka Omarama Bird-lover’s paradise on Milford Sound Milford Wanaka #\ Waimate NZ’s ‘third island’ (p308) #\ #\ ww Glenorchy Fiordland #\ National Park #÷ c #\Arrowtown Queenstown#\ #\ Cromwell #\ Oamaru Clyde #\ Kepler Track Lake Lake #\Alexandra Te Anau Wakatipu Lofty loop track on the #\ Palmerston #\ Te Anau fringes of Fiordland (p300) #\ Manapouri ELEVATION Lake #\ Dunedin Otago Manapouri #] Lumsden Peninsula 2000m 1500m Winton #\Gore #\ Milton #\ 1250m Tuatapere #\ Catlins #\ Balclutha 46°S Conservation 1000m #] Park Invercargill #÷ 750m Fove aux #\ Bluff 500m St 3 ra 250m Rakiura it National Park #÷ #\ Oban 0 Stewtar Island (Rakiura) ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 20 Itineraries TASMAN SEA Arthur's Pass National Park ÷#•# Aoraki/Mt Cook É National Park É •# Christchurch ÷#R •# Lake Tekapo Milford É Sound •# É É •# Queenstown SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN 2 WEEKS Southern Highlights Wing into resurgent Christchurch and stock up on supplies before tramping some of the South Island’s best tracks. Dive in at the deep end in Arthur’s Pass National Park by summiting Avalanche Peak, a strenuous but rewarding day walk rivalling the best in the land. Take the Inland Scenic Route south to Lake Tekapo, arriving in time to tour the night skies at Mt John Observatory. The views here are just as impressive during the daytime, too. Get up early and drive to Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park, allowing you time to tramp in to Mueller Hut, one of New Zealand’s highest. Make your way south to buzzy Queenstown, stopping to sample Central Otago wines and perhaps do a bungy jump at Kawarau Bridge along the way. Soak up some hospital- ity before setting off the following day for the Routeburn Track, NZ’s second-most- popular Great Walk. Having traversed the Southern Alps, take a day off and ogle Milford Sound on a boat trip or scenic flight. Return to Queenstown on foot via the Greenstone or Caples Tracks, two distinctly different river valleys that meet near the shores of Lake Wakatipu. 21 Cape •# Reinga É •# Bay of Islands É É •# •#Coromandel Auckland É Peninsula TASMAN PLAN YOUR TRIP SEA •# Rotorua •# Taupo ÷#Tongariro National Park Abel Tasman É National Park ÷# Kahurangi ÷# É #_ National Park WELLINGTON It É Punakaiki •# ÷# I Nelson Lakes ner ar É National Park Franz Josef Glacier •# Welcome Flat •# •# Christchurch I es Siberia Valley•# É Milford Sound •# •#Wanaka #– SOUTH •# É PACIFIC Queenstown OCEAN 6–8 WEEKS The Grand Tour Kick off your tramping bonanza in metropolitan Auckland. Warm up with a day tramp on the volcanic island of Rangitoto, before driving north via the beautiful Bay