>rnia il S/A ^ ^ OF-CALIFO% \\\E UNIVER5// ^ m^ \\\E-UNT GELr.> l\ % 1 ir" ^A ROSNEATH ROSNEA TH PAST AND PRESENT BY WILLIAM CHARLES MAUGHAN " AUTHOR OF THE ALPS OF ARABIA," ETC., ETC. SEith an Original fjoem bg the Jttarqtiis of |C0rne, AND tg Jllex. Jft'^ibbcn, ALEXANDER GARDNER ttfclfei)fr to ^rr fttaffsstg tljt Quern 26 PAISLEY ; AND PATERNOSTER SQUARE, LONDON 1893 To DOUGLAS (CAMPBELL, DUKE OF ARGYLL, K.G., K.T., A British Statesman and a Scottish Patriot, THIS BOOK Is RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED. 872G45 PREFACE. THE following pages form a modest contribution to those local, secular, and ecclesiastical records of interesting places in our land which are a little removed from the more stirring domains of Scottish history. The author, having resided for over twenty years in the district, has been able to glean his facts from various sources, chiefly the recollections and experiences of aged natives and residents, many of whom have passed away. Much, therefore, of what must irrevocably have been lost is here set down, and it is hoped that the peculiar attractiveness of the beautiful Peninsula, and its inherent poetic and pictorial charms, may render the volume acceptable. Hardly anything has ever been written about Rosneath, and the tiny rills which it has contributed to the noble stream of Scottish history have but gently meandered on their way. But not a few remarkable men have wandered by its pebbly strand, and inhaled the pure air of its heathery braes, and it is hoped that many may welcome this effort to bring the manifold fascinations of the Penin- sula under the notice of a wider circle. KlLARDEN, ROSNEATH, 12th July, 1893. ROSNEATH. HEIRLOOM of red Flodden's glory ! guarded through so many ages, From thy tranquil, happy story, men may fill enchanted pages strife Tell of Peace as here abiding, when around raged and clangour ; Here in peace they dwelt whose guiding led the realm through years of anger ; A.D. From the times when all these regions heard the shock of Norway's 1155. galleys, in And the Maiden Monarch's legions saved the land yonder valleys ; A.D. Once again by Haco shaken with invasion's fiery trial, 1250. Till at Largs the challenge taken was repelled with grim denial, Still, through all, a calm reposes on these woods, and bays, and shallows Peace for us in memory closes in the place affection hallows ! Legends tell how noble Wallace here awhile his destined sorrow Baffled, ere o'er wrong and malice dawned his country's happier morrow. A.D. Read the Blind Bard's rough recital ! How Roaneath's tall castle 1295' slumbered, u A When he dealt his foes requital, and these shores with dead were cumbered. It had seen beneath its rafter, king, and soldier, and crusader : Freed from alien bonds thereafter, never hither came invader. A.D. Stoutly from Dunoon Sir Nigel all its English captors hounded, Broke with Bruce our nation's vigil clear our Freedom's trumpet sounded ! xii BOSNEATH. A.D. Hence Sir Duncan bore the treasure, ransom of the King, whose throning 1430. Brought him from fair Windsor's pleasure to the doom of death and moaning. A.D. Hence the Chancellor, whose father first as heir this soil had trodden, Went to meet his fate and gather glory in the van at Flodden. A.D. Here too lived, young joy upon her, Margaret Douglas, loved and 1520 ' i. u ^ cherished, Ere for Covenant and for Honour, earthly good had nobly perished, A.D. When the house-dogs howled disaster in the hour the Lord had beckoned, 1661. And Edina saw their master to the martyrs' army reckoned. A.D. Yet again these shores were lonely when their bravest went to slaughter, 1685. Fortune's dice were thrown, and only thrown too soon at Cart's dark water ! Still when wars were surging nearer to this Isle in beauty moulded, It but seemed to Peace the dearer. Here she stood, her white wings folded A.D. Never left the loved green Island stayed, its watchful, bright defender, 1715. When through Lowland and through Highland rolled the wars of the Pretender. He who fixed his steadfast gaze on work to bind the realms together And enrolled within his blazon England's rose with Scotland's heather He who rode through Party's phases, borne aloft o'er sneers and slanders As he rode with poet's praises through the Frenchmen's ranks in Flanders Long ere age his fire arrested, when all loves and hates are chastened Here from war and council rested, here the reign of mercy hastened. ROSNEATH. xiii. Yes, e'en now, when strokes of hammer on no mailed forms are ringing, But with iron tongue and clamour Trade's great song are ever singing, Peace yet stands, her love unfailing. Here, while Commerce grows around her, Doth she bless her navies sailing to all lauds where men have crowned her. Here amidst her groves of beeches, pine and fir, and rose and laurel, of Many a memory downward reaches from the days care and quarrel ; From the triumph and endeavour that at last in equal measure Made our Scotland share forever in her foeman's fame and treasure : When from Cove to Ardencaple flames the western sky, and splendour Falls on keep, and stream, and chapel, scenes as fair as earth can render, Speak of deeds, that high and lowly, well may prize as Honour's dower, In the building, proud and holy, of our ancient Scotland's power ! LORNE. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PAST AND PRESENT, - - - - - - - 1 CHAPTER II. TOPOGRAPHY OF THE PENINSULA OF ROSNEATH, 21 CHAPTER III. ROSNEATH A RETROSPECT, 45 CHAPTER IV. ECCLESIASTICAL ROSNEATH, 92 CHAPTER V. TRADITIONS, NATURAL HISTORY, AND FOLK LORE, - - 182 CHAPTER VI. HISTORICAL, ARCHAEOLOGICAL, AND MISCELLANEOUS, - - 234 - - - APPENDIX, . 264 CHAPTER I. Past and Present. THE beautiful Peninsula of Rosneath forms part of the County of Dunbarton, which has been the scene of many stirring episodes in our national history. It was a portion of the ancient territory of Strathclyde, whose capital, Dunbarton, or Dunbritton, figured con- spicuously in the story of Roman occupation and throughout the fierce conflicts of the ancient Britons, Picts, and Scots. Amongst the earlier tribes who lived in the country Druidism was the prevailing religion, and it is quite possible that in some of the secluded glens of the Rosneath Peninsula, were beheld, in olden times, many idolatrous and mystic rites. The Britons of Strathclyde had enough to do to protect themselves against plundering inroads of the Picts. About A.D. 508, the famous Prince Arthur, who had been elected ruler or Pendragon by the chiefs, seems, if ancient chronicles can be credited, ROSNEATH to have fixed one of his seats of authority at Alcluid, as Dumbarton was styled in those days. Coming down later in the stream of time we find the Vikings or Northern Sea Kings, who had settled on the Irish coast, crossing the channel and establishing themselves, for a brief period, on the land adjacent to the estuary of the Clyde. They plundered Alcluid and ravaged the neighbouring country in the year 875. When the Britons of Strathclyde, enfeebled by incessant attacks of their enemies, migrated to the vicinity of their kindred in Wales in the year 890, the kingdom they dominated dwindled into anarchy and obscurity, until the Scots of Dalriada finally annexed their territory in the time of Kenneth III. The Danes, who were such sore scourges to both England and Scotland, afterwards ravaged the shores of the Frith of Clyde, and Dunbritton, or Fort of the Britons, as Dunbarton came to be known, often saw their hostile ships pass her ramparts. Readers of history know that later on, Haco, King of Norway, in the year 1263, set forth to punish the excesses of those whom he considered his unruly subjects in the Western Isles of Scotland. The expedition, which was under Magnus, King of the Isle of Man, proceeded up the waters of Loch Long, which separates the Rosneath Peninsula from the Gareloch. Sailing along its heath-clad mountainous shores to the head of Loch Long, the invaders dragged their boats across the narrow neck of land over to the gravelly strand of the beautiful Loch Lomond. Here they indulged their savage propensities in PAST AND PRESENT. ravaging the country around the Loch, almost reducing it to a soli- tude, and further, carried fire and sword far into the confines of Dunbarton and Stirling shires. Vengeance, however, in the wrath of the elements, overtook the marauders, for in retiring with their plunder from Loch Long, a great storm arose and scattered the fleet. Gathering together his forces to their rescue, as well as he could, the Norwegian king subsequently saw his expedition utterly vanquished at the celebrated Battle of Largs. The County of Dunbarton after this was frequently mixed up with the general course of Scottish history, and the Rosneath Peninsula was from time to time, the scene of striking episodes. It was visited in the course of his romantic career, by the great hero of Scotland, Sir William Wallace. One day, when pursued by his enemies, the hero on his gallant steed leaped from the summit of a lofty rock not far from Rosneath Castle, and, though the horse was killed, his rider gained the shore and swam across the entrance of the Gareloch to the " opposite point of Cairndhu, and made good his escape. In Blind " Harry we read how he sacked Dunbarton, then after burning the Castle of Rosneath, he went to Faslane Castle, near the upper end of the Gareloch, and was received by his friend the Earl of Lennox.