DEDHAM VALE AREA OF INTRODUCTION OUTSTANDING BEAUTY The recent purchase by Wildlife to promote more enjoyment and better Trust of 76 acres of land in west health from our footpaths. This booklet, as Enjoy the special beauty of . prompted collaboration in the a COMPANION FOR THE MAP, aims to The (AONB) Area of Outstanding Beauty formation of a circular walk. Leavenheath encourage walking, through illustration and (some 90 square kilometres) stretches Parish Council then determined to form description of the variety of features that from to within 1 mile of three more circular walks and a new nature, agriculture, history and ecology Bures. Leavenheath includes two areas map was developed with Suffolk County have to offer. of the AONB – at Spouse’s Grove (part Council Rights of Way. Our objectives – of a Site of Special Scientifi c Interest) and east and north east of Cock Street, including Stoke by Hotel, Golf and On these four walks: Spa and the beauty around Spring Farm. THE LANES AND LAKES - page 2 ORCHARD WALK - page 4 KINGSLAND WALK - page 8 and WILDLIFE WALK - page10 There are now no stiles. With the map and new signs, navigation is straight forward.

For more information contact the Dedham Vale AONB & Stour Valley Project on 01394 445225 or email [email protected]

The map is available in digital form at: Leavenheath is largely a creation of the leavenheath.onesuffolk.net/footpaths 19th and 20th centuries. 18th century maps show a large heath on the borders The Benefi ts of Walking – although high moderate-paced ones), lost fi ve times of , , Nayland, intensity workouts can torch calories, more body fat than those who simply Stoke by Nayland and Wissington called tone muscles and increase cardiovascular strolled at a moderate speed fi ve days a ‘Leaden Heath’ - earlier Leowine’s Heath fi tness, a slower pace offers many benefi ts. week. Heading into the great outdoors or Levynhey (1292) - perhaps, originally, Reduce risk of heart disease and stroke by boosts vitamin D, whilst the feel-good a hey or wood. The heath was enclosed walking regularly, lowering levels of LDL endorphins released relieve anxiety and in 1817, giving a landscape of straight roads (bad) cholesterol while increasing HDL stress. and geometric land units. Leavenheath (good) cholesterol. The Stroke Association became a separate chapelry in 1863, a says that a brisk 30-minute walk daily The British Journal of Sports Medicine parish in 1868 and a in 1952. helps to prevent and control high blood found that those engaged in outdoor pressure that causes strokes. Walking also walking groups saw signifi cant strengthens bones and joints, reducing the improvements in blood pressure, resting chance of osteoporosis. heart rate, body fat, BMI percentages, We would like to express our thanks to our principal funders: and lung function. Whatever your age or University of Virginia researchers found fi tness level, walking is a guaranteed way The Dedham Vale AONB & Council Section 106 Fund, and to all that women who took three shorter, to up your physical activity and improve our collaborators, especially stile owners who have agreed to swop stiles for gates, fast-paced walks a week (plus two longer, your fi tness… for free! , The Stoke by Nayland Hotel, Golf & Spa, our volunteers, landowners, farmers, and Suffolk County Rights of Way Team, map designers, enthusiastic walkers and all contributors to this booklet 1 LANES AND LAKES LANES AND LAKES

Harrow Street – this area was the main As you approach Keeper’s Lane you are Hostel Site History – north of Plough as a school for Organic Husbandry in part of Leavenheath until the development beginning part of the walk that embraces Lane just west of Dalton’s Farm are Stoke collaboration with Soil Association around High Road and its estates. The the family-owned Stoke by Nayland Hotel, by Nayland Hotel’s Country Lodges, founder, Lady Eve Balfour. The Peakes village hall was sited at the junction of Golf Club and Spa which includes two completed in 2012.. In the 1940s, this then adapted it to house turkeys, pigs and Old Road and Broad Oaks. The adjacent championship courses, which are site held a hostel for the Women’s Land chickens. The original Water Tower from blocks of council housing were the first regularly used for international events. Army, housing 70 Land Girls who worked the Land Army Hostel has been restored substantial building to take place on the The Gainsborough Course crosses from dawn to dusk each day, milking and enjoys pride of place in the middle of Street before the construction of the Keeper’s Lane and then remains on cows, digging ditches, sowing seeds and the lodges site. It contains an exhibition estates, Broadoaks, The Ridings and your right until you eventually head harvesting crops. The site was purchased of the WLA history and windows have Oaklands in the seventies. As you walk back up to Harrow Street. from the War Agricultural Department been added at the top of the tower for down Harrow street, before you reach in 1950 by the Peake family and used panoramic views. the turn off for the footpath, you can still see some of the original buildings that have remained on what was a country lane.

The Golf Club and Hotel are committed to use of fertilisers and chemicals. Bird Lakes and Woods – the walk is soon St Matthew’s Church – the church was minimising carbon footprint and long term population includes breeding pairs of passing behind a green and returning to consecrated in 1836 as a chapel of ease ecological and environmental goals and has nightingales, skylarks and linnets. Bittern the north east across a small bridge over to Stoke by Nayland. The first priest recently won environmental awards. Over and osprey have been recorded. There are water feeding the lakes. The large lakes was Revd. Harold Curry who lived in the the years, over 40,000 trees have been sightings of otter and water vole. Next to (known as the Carrs) are coarse-fished for house behind the church now known as planted. Proactive woodland management the Gainsborough men’s 17th tee, wetland carp, tench, roach, rudd and bream, and The Old Vicarage. By 1880 the growing has produced mixed deciduous woodland. encourages frogs and toads. Stag beetle attract many birds including grebe, grey congregation resulted in an extension that Grass cuttings are composted for use on piles are constructed. Low growing and lag and Canada geese, tufted ducks, coots, included bell tower, south aisle, prayer site and computerized irrigation systems semi-rough grass areas are managed to moorhens, herons and kingfishers. Then chapel, vestry and chancel. make best use of water. There is minimal allow wild flower growth. into woods above the lakes. In recent times the Victorian brick of the west front and tiled Chancel floor have been restored. Stained glass now fills the lancet window, lit at night, while seasonal banners and decorative hassock add colour to the interior.

The Church houses the Village War Memorials with white wooden named crosses for those killed in WW1 and brass plate for WW11.

2 3 ORCHARD WALK ORCHARD WALK

To Edies Lane/Maple Way To Spring Farm/Cock Street Track – from the Golf Course, the walk crosses Cock Street and reaches the farm and a very picturesque lake with a majestic oak to one side, and in to woods. Through new gates, the walk takes you to the bottom of a track that leads back up to Cock Street, with Nayland Hall to the left and Little Nayland Hall and Nayland Hall Farm and Barn to the right. On reaching Cock Street, the walk takes you to the left along Royston Wood – just west of the A134 a permissive path around the Honey Tye is a 0.6 hectare community woodland, orchard. owned by Babergh District Council and Orchard Farming – Boxford Suffolk Farms, Honey Hall – next to The Lion, this managed by the Leavenheath, Polstead and who recently won Top Fruit Grower of medievel hall house (2 and 3-storey) - Stoke by Nayland Community Woodlands. the Year award, grow over 40 different timbered, sand plastered with tiled roof Rescued from poor condition in 2008, it varieties of apples with a balance of new - was begun in the late 14th century, and supports surprisingly diverse ecology, and modern, and old traditional, orchards, is Grade 2* listed. A floor and fireplaces the central glade is used regularly by local an important component of our local were inserted in the hall in the 16th and groups. environment. In supplying ‘traditional’ and 17th centuries. The upper floor west front unusual English varieties to supermarkets, projects over curved brackets. There are the farm sometimes has to pick and grade old leaded casements and the remains of the apples directly into the tray in the panel pargetting. orchard, to supply the quality required.

New orchards are progressive and innovative using new technology and Plough Lane – the Plough Inn used to stand growing techniques, such as hail nets on the A134/Plough Lane corner until the and fertigation, to reduce damage and early 20th century. Whittingham’s map of maximise life and yield of the trees. 1793 shows the west end of Plough Lane Included in the Countryside Stewardship was part of ‘Leaden Heath’. East Scheme to protect old Orchards is one of the Cock Street junction, it was a which was transplanted in 1948 with road leading via Bull (the old name for trees already 12 years old, including Cox’s the area around Dalton’s Farm) to Stoke Orange Pippin, Laxton Superb, Egremont Hough (now the the cross roads near Russet, Discovery, Crispin, Spartan and to Stoke Priory). James Grieve (an variety).

4 5 You might see...

Our thanks for Photos from Leavenheath Residents,Suffolk Wildlife Trust and Stoke by Nayland Hotel, Golf & Spa KINGSLAND WALK KINGSLAND WALK

High Road – The Village Green was Breach Grove – (listed in the English formed in 1985 as part of major residential Nature inventory of Ancient Woodland) - development north of the High Road. On includes mainly medium aged oaks, planted the way to Edies Lane, just past Wright’s approximately hundred years ago. It also Way, notice two glorious cherry trees – contains hazel, holly, elder and cherry. these are mature examples of the local Farming – Leavenheath farming is mainly Flora include bluebells and foxgloves. variety Polstead Black. medium-sized and multi-cropped – typically rotating crops in relation to tight Kingsland Lane – a restricted byway, with markets e.g. growing a mixture of bread- rich ecology - originally the key route from making wheat, peas and oilseed rape. ‘Leaden Heath’ to Wiston. Although recently crops have been good and food is plentiful, markets are tight, and careful crop selection is essential to success. With the interest of wildlife in the crops eg. pigeons like peas, rooks raiding the seeds, bird scaring devices will be seen and heard. There has been a significant Edies Lane and Spinney – in lower Edies decline in the number of small farms, Lane (west side), see Stonicott, a circa leading to a shortage in the supply of early 17th century Grade II timber framed manure. Farmers apply major self-restraint building, with plastered incised lines in the use of pesticides and insecticides replicating ashlar masonry, and a thatched and, more widely, make important roof. Then through the narrow path to contributions to care of the countryside. the spinney. West of the path is an ancient Let’s keep to the well marked paths. Species in the lane include soft shield field hedge containing 12 different species- fern, wood sedge, wood millet, wood oak, ash, holly, elder, ivy, blackberry, spurge, bluebells, broom, dog’s mercury, cherry, hazel, field maple, blackthorn, dog honeysuckle, clematis, spindle, aspen, rose & hawthorn. The spinney is a private small-leaved lime,field rose, betony, shelter for wildlife like fox, rabbit, roe common cow-wheat, violets, wood dock deer, muntjac and badger. As you leave, and woundwort. crossing the bridge, pause and take in the wonderful expanse of sky – some Spring The variety along this very old lane and Autumn sunrises and sunsets are provides opportunity for enjoyment in particularly spectacular! identification of the species.

Beyond the west boundary hedge is Kingsland Field, and beyond that Peck’s Piece (see p.10) - both Suffolk Wildlife Trust land.

As the walk turns east back to Edie’s Lane, look for the carpet of yellow in the summer.

8 9 WILDLIFE WALK WILDLIFE WALK

Locks Lane – the line of the lane is seen Spouse’s Grove – is ancient woodland. It is best in Spring for bluebells, red on 18th century mapping extending from With , it is part of a Nature campion, greater stitchwort and wild the west edge of ‘Leaden Heath’. The lane Reserve and a Site of Special Scientific garlic, synonymous with ancient woodland. terminates in a track that leads to the Interest, named after sisters Edith and The scarce yellow necked mouse and Suffolk Wildlife Trust Nature Reserve. Frances Vale who purchased the reserve even rarer dormouse live here. for the Suffolk Wildlife Trust.

Ford’s Heath – on Ford’s Heath the Trust enable a grassy commons landscape to aims to create something akin to the develop. The rough commons of south ‘furzey commons’, a lost landscape typical Suffolk have gone forever, but here nature Suffolk Wildlife Trust (SWT) Hullback’s Grove has developed from an of the Leavenheath area several hundreds can restore much-needed untidiness Nature Reserve – this walk includes the arable field to a new woodland, grown of years ago. into the countryside. Gedding Hall in large SWT Nature Reserve devoted to naturally from seeds blown from the Leavenheath was the property of Edmund linking up habitats to benefit dormouse surrounding trees. It is dominated by The plan is to help nature take the lead, de Geddyng in 1327. and other vulnerable species - including ash, with dog-rose, birch, hawthorn, field helped by some eventual light grazing, to Peck’s Piece, Hullback’s Grove, Spouse’s maple and oak beginning to establish. Grove and, recently added, Ford’s Heath. Comma, meadow brown, orange tip and other meadow butterflies feed in the wide Peck’s Piece, is enclosed by fabulous rides through Hullback’s Grove. old hedges alive with wildlife, including dormice. SWT let nature take the lead The edges of the ancient woodlands once again, allowing woodland to regrow support speckled wood and green-veined naturally, seeded by the hedges and ancient white. They will spread into the new woodland. Over the coming decades, the woodland as it matures. As the wood succession of habitats from open ground develops, it will link the ancient woodlands to grassland, scrub and woodland will be of Arger Fen and Spouse’s Grove to a changing landscape, attracting wildlife create a more secure future for one of at every stage. In the south-east corner, the reserve’s most elusive residents, the a fenced area is planted with young ash dormouse. VOLUNTEERING – there are interesting trees, as part of exploration of resistance opportunities for volunteers with Suffolk to Ash die-back. Wildlife (Wednesdays).

Beyond the raised reservoir, close to If you would enjoy helping out with which nightingale can be heard in Spring, light maintenance of our circular walks (contact Richard Cowell 01206 262773)

10 11 THREE BEAUTIFUL CIRCULAR WALKS BEYOND THE VILLAGE WALKING GROUPS - Starting point Village Green - SEE MAP ON BACK The following groups walk in the Village during the year:

Leavenheath Women’s Institute www.thewi.org.uk To Nayland the next public footpath on the Stepping out in Suffolk health Walks www.livewellsuffolk.org.uk/healthwalks right, skirting the south boundary (see:www.dedhamvalestourvalley. Sudbury U3A walking group www.sudburyu3a.com - GROUPS of Arger Fen / beyond Hullback’s org/publications/walking-guides/): Grove, the path meets another Walk to and down Edies lane / Ramblers public footpath / turn left and cross the public footpath to the walk behind and beyond the raised Sudbury Branch www.sudburyramblers.org.uk A134 / turn right and take the reservoir, continuing up to the Branch www.colchester-ramblers.co.uk public footpath east past the old Suffolk Wildlife Trust access gate at Branch www.burystedmundsramblers.org.uk Methodist Church / cross the the end of Locks Lane / just beyond orchard, field, and turn left at the the gate turn right along the BURIED TREASURE (eg. Geocache) track / at Cock Street turn right public footpath that leads back to and bear left at Thompson’s Farm / Geocaching is a brilliant outdoor and compasses you can still join in Kingsland Lane and then left back just past Beacham’s Farm turn right activity and fun for all the family. the fun by noting the co-ordinates to High Road. following the Stour Valley path The basic idea is that individuals and and going old school! There are down to Nayland via Gravel Hill organisations set up caches all over numerous caches in our surrounding To Assington / turn right and then left into the the world and share the locations of area, so what are you waiting for? High Street / cross the river Walk north west along High Road these on the internet. Once found, Get outdoors into our beautiful by the Anchor Pub, and then take and take the public footpath on a cache may provide the visitor with countryside and join in steps right, pass the weir, and skirt the left just beyond Gedding Hall, a wide variety of rewards. In its the world’s largest treasure hunt. the river to the A134 / turn right continuing down to and passing simplest form a cache is a logbook and cross to Bear Street / take Assington Mill / climb the hill and in which you can record your name Happy caching! the footpath left up to and past turn right at the top and walk to and when you found it. It may the cemetery / follow the path the Assington - Bures Road / turn contain information about nearby ahead, past Townland Barn, on to left along the road and soon left attractions or details of other woodland, a field and then, at the again along the quiet road that caches. Some include items to swap, entrance to Spring Farm copse, leads towards Arger Fen / beyond but please remember if you take turn left alongside a small stream Moors Farm, just before the first something from the cache it is only to Little Nayland Hall / return wooded area on the left, turn left right to leave something in its place across the field and orchards to down a track into Spouse’s Grove, for the next visitor to find. Edies Lane and the Village Green. bear left and follow the public footpath out of Spouse’s Grove, All you need is a GPS and an internet To High Fen across decking and when reaching connection. You can download an the field bear right and continue Walk to and down the full length app to your mobile phone for free by up the public footpath with of Kingsland Lane, turn right along visiting www.geocaching.com, which Leavenheath Farm to your right - the road and straight ahead along provides a live treasure map and this path leads to High Road / turn the track (Dead Lane) until you the locations of the hidden caches. right to return to the Green. reach a road/ turn right and take Without GPS, if you just like maps

12 CIRCULAR WALKS BEYOND THE VILLAGE

ASSINGTON A134 B1068

North

GOLF CLUB

MILL VILLAGE PLOUGH LANE GREEN HIGH ROAD COCK STREET

HONEY KINGSLAND ARGER LANE TYE FEN

DEAD LANE A134 HIGH FEN

NAYLAND

To Nayland To High Fen To Assington

Published by: Leavenheath Parish Council Design by: Steve Mckea at Stoke by Nayland Golf Club, Hotel, Golf & Spa Printed by: Spingold Design & Print Ltd