Welcome to your river! Deal of a lifetime! Welcome to the Missouri National Recrea- Have you reached the noble vintage of 62 tional River, one of 391 units of your Na- years? If so, then you qualify for America’s tional Park System. More than two-thirds of best outdoor recreation bargain! The fed- the entire length of the has eral recreation Senior Pass covers your ad- Undercurrents been altered or “re-engineered” by the ac- mission to national park fee areas, and Your free guide to Missouri National Recreational River tions of humans. The two remaining un- nearly all other federal recreation areas, www.nps.gov/mnrr th tamed stretches that make up the Missouri including U.S. Forest Service, Bureau of 30 Anniversary Edition – 2008 National Recreational River are, therefore, Reclamation, Bureau of Land Management, very important in preserving chapters of and U.S. and Service areas. Superintendent takes the Helm Double Anniversary America’s natural and cultural heritage of The pass also entitles you to reduced camp- on the Big Muddy 2008 is a double anniversary year: The 30th “Big Muddy”. ing fees at most federal recreation areas and On July 20, Michael Madell officially en- anniversary of Missouri National Recrea- special services (tours, programs, etc.) at tered on duty as superintendent of Mis- tional River and the 40th of the National This unique unit of the National Park Ser- some areas. The best news is that this pass souri National Recrea- Wild and Scenic Rivers Act. vice offers natural beauty and an exciting is only $10 and it’s good for the rest of your tional River. Mike history for your enjoyment and enrichment. life! began his ranger career Why Wild and Scenic? You will experience the river's ever- in the late 1970s with As a unit of the National Park System, changing nature, the animals and plants that Michigan State Parks. Missouri National Recreational River has find a home in its realm, and the stories of After earning his Mas- been designated by Congress as one of people and events that have shaped its past. ters in Parks and Rec- America’s special places. The park is also As a recreational river, it is also your river reation at the Univer- part of the National Wild and Scenic River to enjoy in a safe and considerate manner. sity of , he began his National System, stretches of free-flowing rivers When the Congress desig- Park Service career at the Denver Service that are protected for their outstandingly nated Missouri National Recreational River Center. From 1990 to 1997, he was Chief remarkable geologic, fish and wildlife, as a part of America’s Wild and Scenic of Planning and Resources Management at scenic, recreational and/or historic values. River System, the National Park Service Mississippi National River and Recreation was charged with the task of maintaining Area, then served as Environmental Coor- the natural state of the river and keeping it For those lacking the years to qualify for dinator and Chief of Planning in the Na- accessible for the enjoyment and enlighten- the Senior Pass, the $80 Annual Pass is still tional Park Service’s Omaha regional of- ment of present and future generations. I a bargain, covering entry to all recreation fice. Following a short stint with the U.S. hope that you will join the staff of Missouri areas operated by the above agencies. Both Forest Service in Kentucky, Mike returned National Recreational River in caring for passes are good for the holder and three to the NPS as superintendent of Central and protecting this remarkable national additional adults and are available at the High School National Historic Site in Lit- treasure. Lewis & Clark Visitor Center. tle Rock, Arkansas. Mike is now glad to get back to the “North Country” and is

R. Michael Madell looking forward to shoveling snow this Linda Gordon RokoszNPS photo by Superintendent winter. The staff of Missouri National Recreational River welcome Mike to Verdigre Creek Yankton! Contacting Your Lewis & Clark Visitor Center Why the Missouri? Hwy 121, overlooking National Park Inside: One third of the Missouri has been chan- Gavins Point Missouri National Recreational River Superintendent’s Welcome—Back Page nelized – deepened and straightened for 402-667-2546 PO Box 666 barge traffic. Another third of the former

Yankton , 57078 Boating the Wild & Scenic River – pg 10 “Big Muddy” has been backed up as reser-

402-667-2550 voirs behind the six major built by Master of the Big Muddy—pg 5 the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. The www.nps.gov/mnrr two stretches of the Missouri that make up Junior Rangers—pg 2 MNRR are the last free-flowing portions of the lower Mis- (continued on pg. 2) 12 souri, remnants that have not been exten- and may be required at some other sites. sively re-designed by humans. They are Junior Rangers Other launch sites may be indicated on protected not maps, but are not recommended for trail- Take it to ered craft. just for their the Lake! scenic value, but for their Overnight floats In accordance with unique wildlife Most of the land USACE photo National Park Ser- habitat; several along the park is vice policy, personal threatened or chicks privately owned watercraft (Jet Ski®, endangered species inhabit these portions and there are few WaveRunner®, etc.) are not permitted on of the river. The park also protects the public camping the portions of the Missouri designated as recreational value of the river for boating, possibilities. Wild & Scenic. This includes the 59-mile canoeing and kayaking, and fishing. And Primitive camp- reach from to history? The “rec river” is near or in- ing is normally allowed on islands and State Park, the 39-mile reach from Run- cludes many historic sites visited by sandbars. Please adhere to the "pack-it- ning Water, SD to Ft. Randall Dam, the American Indians, fur traders, Lewis & in, pack-it-out" (Leave No Trace) lower 20 miles of the and Clark, steamboat captains, homesteaders, Earn your badge! ethic. The river bank on both sides of the lower 8 miles of Verdigre Creek. and so many cultural groups that lived the river, sandbars and islands on the Personal Watercraft are welcomed on all near the Missouri. Pick up a Junior Ranger activity bro- Nebraska side, and deeded islands on Corps of Engineers lakes on the Missouri chure or activity book at the Lewis & the South Dakota side of the river are and on the Missouri River downstream of MNRR is unique among national parks in Clark Visitor Center and spend an private property. Only the water belongs . Ride safely and wear that it has very little land area — it’s pri- hour or a weekend discovering the to the public. In areas other than desig- your life vest! marily a water park. Its natural and cul- fascinating historic and natural world nated campsites, permission is required tural resources are managed in coopera- of your Wild & Scenic River. Find to walk, picnic or camp on private prop- tion with numerous other agencies, in- out what rangers do and what Junior erty. Sandbars on the South Dakota side cluding the Corps of Engineers, U S Fish Rangers can do to protect their na- of the river are public property. In sev- More National tional parks. and Wildlife Service, Nebraska & eral locations along the "rec river," the Parks Parks Commission, South Dakota Depart- state border is still undetermined. ment of Game, Fish, and Parks, Yankton It’s free and it’s fun! Many more of America’s Sioux Tribe, Ponca Tribe of Nebraska, special places are within a and city and county governments. These day’s drive of MNRR. Here For online Junior Ranger are just a few: adventures, visit Another Wild & Scenic River www.nps.gov/webrangers Not far away is another surprising unit of Pipestone National Monument, Pipestone, the Wild and Scenic River System. Nio- Minnesota. www.nps.gov/pipe brara National Scenic River, near Valentine, Nebraska offers river experiences from mild Minuteman Missile National Historic Site, Did you know? to wild, spectacular waterfalls , classic iron Phillip, South Dakota. Yankton’s first non-Indian resident bridges, and fascinating local history. For www.nps.gov/mimi was Pierre Dorion, a French trapper more information, visit www.nps.gov/niob. and trader who married into the Homestead National Monument of Amer- Yankton Tribe around 1785. He ica, Beatrice, Nebraska. NPS photo by Linda Gordon RokoszNPS photo by joined the Lewis & Clark Corps of www.nps.gov/home and other agencies work with the Na- Discovery enroute and left the expe- tional Park Service to keep these special dition at after serving , Interior, South portions of the Missouri available for you Dakota. as liaison and translator between the www.nps.gov/badl and your family to enjoy now and in the explorers and the tribe. future. Discover your America

2 11

Canoeing & Kayaking Float trip Floating the Missouri can be an adventure, guides and Camping different from whitewater trips, but chal- The National Park Service does not operate lenging and exciting in its own way. Be- outfitters campgrounds in or near Missouri National fore you consider a float trip on “Mighty Recreational River. Camping is available Mo”, you should be an experienced river This list is pro- through our partner agencies as follows: canoeist or kayaker. The Lakota name for vided for your the river is MniSoshe Wakpa, turbulent- convenience and may not be complete. US Army Corps of Engineers operates underneath river. The Missouri is known No endorsement by the National Park the Cottonwood campground on Lake for its varied currents that sometimes give Service or Missouri National Recrea- Yankton and Tailwaters campground on little or no surface clues to their presence. tional River is implied. the Missouri River. Both campgrounds are in Nebraska and reservations may be made Wind can also be a problem at times, im- through the national reservation service at 877-444-6777 or www. recreation.gov. peding your progress or creating dangerous Missouri River Expeditions, P.O. Box waves. 536, Vermillion, SD 57069. Telephone: South Dakota State Parks (www.sdgfp.info) operates several campgrounds near 605/360-2646 MNRR, including Lewis & Clark on Lewis & Clark Lake, Pierson Ranch below Gav- E-mail: [email protected] ins Point Dam, and Chief White Crane on Lake Yankton (605-668-2985). The state Internet: www.missriverexp.com also operates the Randall Creek campground on the Missouri below and North Point on . (605- 487-7046) South Dakota State Parks Missouri River Rafting, P.O. Box 133, reservations 800-710-CAMP. Clay County State Recreation Area is located west of Irene, SD 57037. Telephone: 605/267- Vermillion with first-come-first-serve campsites within a half mile of the river. 3075 Nebraska State Parks (www.ngpc.state.ne.us) provides campgrounds at Ponca State Missouri River Tours, P.O. Box 17A, Park (402-755-2284), the downstream boundary of MNRR, at Wynot, NE 68792. Telephone: 402/985- (402-857-3373), and at Weigand/Burbach unit of Lewis & Clark Recreation Area on 2216 Lewis & Clark Lake (402-388-4169). Nebraska State Parks reservations 402- 471- 1414.

DJ's Sports Rentals: 31110 Launch and take-out sites are indicated on Dr., Yankton, SD 57078. Telephone: Most campgrounds are full on summer weekends, so make your reservations early. the official MNRR map and brochure, and 605/665-3206 All offer both electric and tent sites except Clay County Recreation Area. Some state detailed directions can be found at E-mail: [email protected] park facilities also have camping cabins and housekeeping cabins available. Call the www.nps.gov/mnrr/guides.htm Internet: www.DJsSportsRentals.com parks or visit their websites for more information.

Restrooms are available at the state parks and at most launch sites. If nature calls when you are not near one of these areas, hit sand! Constant attention to the water Who’s more likely to drown? please use the Leave No Trace practices ahead of you is necessary to maintain a safe Adults or kids? detailed elsewhere in this booklet. course. Watch your speed and be on the According to one of our partners, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, lookout for submerged obstacles. adults are far more likely to drown in a swimming or boating accident than children. Why? Adults will insist that the kids wear life jackets, Power Boating Launch ramps are provided by the Corps of but will neglect to wear one themselves. Engineers on both sides of the river below Whether you are fishing or just cruising, But I can swim! Don’t sit on Gavins Point Dam, by the City of Yankton boating the Missouri can be different from it, wear it! at Riverside Park, and by the state of South Many drowning victims were good swimmers. Injuries in a boating what you may have experienced on other Dakota at Randall Creek, Running Water, accident, strong currents, or distance may make swimming impossi- rivers. The natural portions of the Missouri and Clay County Park. Nebraska Game and ble. still exhibit shifting sandbars, tree stumps Parks provides launch ramps at Verdel, Be safe! (snags), and other hazards. Local river rats’ Niobrara State Park, St. Helena, Brooky State and federal regulations require children under 13 to wear life jackets while in a boats are easy to spot by their shiny propel- Bottom, Mulberry Bend, and Ponca State boat and we recommend that all boaters wear them at all times. lers; if you boat the wild Missouri, you will Park. State park fees apply at state parks 10 3

Protecting Our Rivers Fish and Wildlife Service and state agen- Alien Invasion Alert! “It is hereby declared to be the policy of the cies. These state and federal agencies work Hit the Trail United States that certain selected rivers of in cooperation with other state and federal, Keep your National Park free of this The National Park Service’s the Nation which, with their immediate en- as well as local and tribal entities to bal- ! partner agencies offer numer- vironments, possess outstandingly remark- ance the demands of use and protection of Zebra Mussels, ous hiking and bicycling op- able scenic, recreational, geologic, fish and our natural river resources. portunities. South Dakota accidentally wildlife, historic, cultural or other similar Scenic Rivers: imported from State Parks have several miles of paved values, shall be preserved in free-flowing “Those Rivers or sections of rivers that Europe, have and primitive trails along the north shore condition, and that they and their immedi- of Lewis & Clark Lake. Nebraska State ate environments shall be protected for the are free of impoundments, with shorelines spread from the Parks maintains unpaved trails on the or watersheds still largely primitive and Great Lakes and benefit and enjoyment of present and future south shore of the lake. Appropriate state generations…” shorelines largely undeveloped, but ac- to other waterways. park admission is required to park at the cessible in places by roads.” They clog water intakes, damage boats trailheads. and motors, and crowd out native spe- cies. They reproduce rapidly and have The city of Yankton has an extensive sys- The object of river management is to pro- few natural predators. Zebra mussels tem of paved trails through the historic city tect and enhance wild and scenic river val- can only travel upstream as hitchhik- and a connecting trail to the dam area. For ues without limiting other uses, unless those ers, they or their larvae attached to more information on these trails, ask a uses are incompatible with the purposes of boats, motors, or trailers, or in ranger for a “Meridian Trails” brochure. the act. The focus for management is not to Excellent hiking and/or equestrian trails livewells or bilges. prevent development, but to safeguard wa- are also available at Ponca and Niobrara ter quality, free-flowing condition, and state parks. natural and cultural values. The Act specifi- MNRR and the lakes upstream pres- cally prohibits federally assisted or spon- ently appear to be free of these pests. Niobrara National Scenic River sored water resources projects that would Please prevent their spread by washing Ranger Programs impede the free flow of a river or adversely th your vessel with hot soapy water or Just like at other national parks, MNRR 2008 is the 40 anniversary of the Wild and affect its outstandingly remarkable values. allowing at least five days drying time rangers present fascinating programs on Scenic Rivers Act. after boating in waters that may be the natural and cultural history of the park, After decades of damming, development, in this case, the river and its surroundings. and diversion, Americans began to recog- Recreational Rivers: contaminated. Ask a ranger for a bro- “Those rivers or sections of rivers that chure to learn what you can do to pro- Topics include native plants, American nize the adverse effects on our rivers. On October 2, 1968, President Lyndon Johnson are readily accessible by road or rail- tect your favorite fishing and boating Indian history, homesteading, signed the National Wild and Scenic Rivers road, that may have some development places. steamboats, and Act, establishing a process for building a along their shorelines, and that may have undergone some impoundment or diver- Did You Know? the Lewis & legacy of protected rivers. From the eight rivers originally included in the act, the sion in the past.” The average Clark Expedi- tion. For our lifespan of a Wild Rivers: Missouri River younger visi- “Those rivers or sections of rivers that steamboat was tors, we offer are free of impoundments and generally 5.7 years. fishing clinics inaccessible except by trail, with water- Twenty percent of these boats sank and craft pro- sheds or shorelines essentially primitive before their third season. Fire, explo- grams. See a and waters unspoiled.” sions, and ice jams claimed a few of ranger for a complete schedule and pro- these ships, but the vast majority were gram descriptions. sunk by snags, tree stumps lodged in Don’t forget to stop at the Lewis & Clark National Wild and Scenic River System has the river bottom with their jagged ends Visitor Center for short programs at 11:00 grown to over 160 rivers in 37 states. just above or below the water’s surface. am every day and special exhibits and craft Wild & Scenic Rivers are managed by the programs every Saturday and Sunday at National Park Service, the Bureau of Land 1:00 pm. Management, the U.S. Forest Service, U.S. Linda Gordon RokoszNPS photo by Missouri National Recreational River 4 9

river. Use existing campsites and fire scars Master of the Big Muddy Missouri, Marsh moved to Memphis, Ten- Doing your part to minimize impacted area. Camp 200 feet nessee, where there were still opportunities We all benefit from visiting America’s wild Among the numerous from water, streambeds, and other campers. Missouri River steamboat for individuals like him on the Mississippi. places and relaxing with outdoor activities, but heavy use of our favorite recreation pilots, Grant Prince Dispose of waste properly—Pack it in, Marsh (1834-1916) was In over a half century of riverboating, areas is having a negative impact and de- pack it out. Do not attempt to burn waste in Marsh lost only one boat; the towboat Lit- tracting from everyone’s outdoor experi- possibly the greatest ever, your campfire. Solid human waste should possessed of both great tle Eagle was capsized by a “cyclone” ence. be deposited in a “cathole” 200 feet from near St. Louis. The crew jumped to the Missouri National Recreational River is skill and incredible luck. water or campsites, or use a portable toilet. barges for safety, but Marsh was trapped your park; your place for outdoor recrea- Toilet paper should not be buried, but on the towboat when it was torn away tion. Boaters, floaters, anglers, and hunters; He grew up in the river bagged and packed out. Dishwater should town of Rochester, Pennsylvania, and be- from the barges. He clambered out the everyone needs to do their part to minimize be strained into a cathole and the solid ma- pilot house window and crawled to the their impact on the river environment. gan his steamboat career as a cabin boy at terial bagged and packed out. the age of 12. By 1858 he was a first mate edge of the hull, walking out onto the bot- on the A. B. Chambers No. 2, on which he tom of the hull as the boat completed its Leave what you find—Flowers, trees, arti- was assisted by a then-unknown second rollover. According to his biography, pub- facts; enjoy looking at them and leave them mate, Samuel Clemens. During the Civil lished in 1909, this is the only recorded for others to enjoy. Do not build fire rings War, Marsh worked on boats in the Union incident of a pilot walking from the pilot- or structures, or trench campsites. Fleet on the lower Mississippi. house to the keel without getting wet!

Minimize fire impact—Use camp stoves After the war Marsh worked as a pilot and He later returned to Bismarck, North Da- whenever possible. If you must have a captain in the St. Louis-Fort Benton kota, operating snag boats, towing coal campfire, keep it small, use an existing fire (Montana) trade. He moved to Yankton barges, transporting grain and cement. He site or use a fire pan or mat. Burn all fuel to and became a partner of Sanford Coulson stayed active on the river as long as he ash and pack out. in 1873 and worked with the Coulson could. Marsh died in near poverty in Bis- Packet Line for several years, establishing marck in January 1916, at the age of 81. Respect wildlife—Give wildlife their a reputation for reliability, both in moving He was interred in St. Mary's Cemetery space, do not feed animals or leave food freight and in commanding a crew. located on a hilltop overlooking the Mis- scraps. Even if you are , minimize souri River valley. disturbance of non-game species. Three years later, his unique experience on Did You Know? Leave No Trace is an outdoor ethics pro- the Yellowstone River caused him to be Be considerate of other visitors—This At 2,320.7 miles the Missouri is America's gram developed by a partnership of govern- assigned as master of the Far West to ac- longest river. It is 2.5 miles longer than the ment agencies and private enterprises. The sums up the whole LNT program. Let na- company Gen. Alfred Terry and Custer on ture’s sounds prevail, allow others their Mississippi River. This does not include the LNT principles are based on scientific their ill-fated campaign against the Sioux 325 miles from Three Forks to Brower’s information, common sense and courtesy. space, and think about what you can do to and Northern Cheyenne. The Far West’s Spring, considered to be the Missouri’s Whether you are camping or just out for a leave a campsite or recreation spot the way 54-hour, 700-mile dash to Bismarck with source. day, the following seven principles will you would like to find it. more than 50 wounded troopers of Major help keep your river enjoyable for every- Reno’s command was one of the most re- Park Offices to Move one. Ask a ranger for a LNT brochure or re- markable exploits in Missouri River The headquarters of MNRR will minder card or visit www.lnt.org . steamboating annals. be moving from O’Neill, Ne-

The 7 Principles braska to downtown Yankton. Marsh then continued his work on the Mis- Plan ahead and prepare—Be aware of According to the plan, the Did You Know? souri. With his own packet boat, the W. J. conditions and weather you might encoun- MNRR field office, currently located in Ponca Chief Standing Bear's desire to Behan, he participated in one more notable ter and pack accordingly. Repackage food the Corps of Engineers Lewis and Clark return to his tribe's ancestral homeland event in late April 1883, transporting Sit- to minimize waste. Schedule your trip for Visitor Center will also be relocated to the along the lower Niobrara River resulted ting Bull and his remaining followers to low-use days if possible. new office space. National Park rangers in a landmark federal court decision af- Fort Randall from Fort Yates where they will continue to help staff the visitor center firming that American Indians are per- had been detained after their return from Use durable surfaces—Travel and camp and present programs there. on rock, gravel, or sand when not on the sons under the U.S. Constitution. Canada. Then, as river traffic waned on the

8 5

to differentiate the from the more common shovelnose sturgeon and the Weather or not… lake sturgeon, and the season is therefore The Great Plains can be full of weather surprises, but you closed year-round on all sturgeon species. can generally expect hot in the summer and cold in the winter. Be prepared for occasional storms with possible tornadoes in the summer and snow with the possibility of Something ice or blizzard conditions in the winter. You can also So, where are they biting? expect many seasonably pleasant days at any time of Fishy! Bait shops and other anglers are your Missouri National Recreational best sources, but they won't always Month Avg. High Avg. Low Avg Precip. *Avg. Water River includes the two reaches of the Mis- share the best spots. Here are some Temperature souri River, 20 miles of the lower Niobrara helpful hints: January 28 8 .43 River, and the lower 8 miles of Verdigre The best time is often in the evening February 35 14 .53 Creek. Catfish, walleye, sauger, paddlefish, and early morning as this is feeding and many more game species await your time for most fish. Bass, and walleye March 46 24 1.77 angling skills in these bodies of water. and trout feed all night. April 60 35 2.51 50 Licensing: The Missouri River forms a Deep holes are good places and are of- May 72 46 3.87 63 good part of the state boundary between ten located under bridges, below dams, South Dakota and Nebraska. As the river on bends in the river, and downstream June 82 57 3.91 71 here is considered "border waters," either of sandbars. July 87 62 3.36 78 state license (South Dakota and Nebraska) Fish can sense noise vibrations such as is acceptable and special seasons and laws hitting the bottom of the boat or loud August 85 60 2.93 78 apply accordingly. Waters of the Missouri talking. September 77 49 2.17 66 River are defined to include all flowing For walleye/sauger, the best times are October 64 38 1.85 54 portions and backwaters, sloughs and May to June and mid-September chutes that draw water from the Missouri through November. Just downstream of November 45 24 1.25 42 River. Mouths of may only be the Fort Randall and the Gavins Point December 32 12 .51 fished in the state in which the angler is dams seems to be popular with anglers licensed. for this fish species. *Missouri River at Yankton. Water temperature recording began in 2006 on a seasonal basis. Live bait: Please use caution when using For small and largemouth bass, the best live bait and follow all state regulations. To times are May, June, September, and Visitor Centers October near Springfield (SD) and Nio- Hunting is an- avoid introducing non-native species, please other popular The Lewis and Clark Visitor Center overlook- empty all bait buckets in the water they brara (NE). ing Gavins Point Dam is the only visitor cen- For crappie and , the best year-round ac- were filled from or on land. tivity along ter in the country shared by the Army Corps times are early April after ice out and in of Engineers and the National Park Service. late summer near Springfield and Nio- the "rec Threatened and Endangered: The Pallid river" corridor. Rangers from both agencies staff the center, Sturgeon, a fish native to the Missouri brara. assist visitors and present interpretive pro- For catfish, the best times are late June, Most hunting is done on private River, is listed on the federal Threatened land, requiring permission of the grams. and Endangered Species List. It is difficult July and August near Springfield and Niobrara. landowner. Both South Dakota and Nebraska state hunting regulations The state visitor center at Ponca State Park apply. Duck blind permits for the (NE) houses the Missouri River Resource and upper end of Lewis and Clark Lake Education center, which includes a wing of Enjoy yourself! Remember the can be obtained from the US Army exhibits jointly developed by several agencies Corps of Engineers at the Lewis and designed and built by the National Park fishing is always good; and Clark Visitor Center or Service. online. Applications are taken from August 1 to September 1. the catching just makes it better. 6 7