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Arthur Wakefield on Everest 1922: No 'Passenger'
History Julian Cooper Eiger Summit Ridge 2004, oil on canvas, 30 x 41 ems RONALD BAYNE Arthur Wakefield on Everest 1922: no 'passenger' Dr Arthur Wakefield, a general practitionerfrom Cumbria, reached the North Col ofMount Everest as a memberof General Charles Bruce's 1922 expedition. Aswellas being a climber, heprovidedmedicalcare to his comrades, who included George Leigh Mallory and George Finch. In their accounts of the expedition, several climbers portrayed him as a nervous old man anda 'complete passenger'. However, recently uncovered letters and a diary have led to this sympathetic reassessment of the man and the revelation of his own summit ambitions thwarted by overdosing his companion on morphine. rthur Wakefield's reputation as a mountaineer, and thus his selection A for Everest, was based on the record he set in 1905 for the Lakeland fell marathon - 59 miles and 23,500 feet of ascent in 22 hours 7 minutes' and on his experience in climbing in the Canadian Rockies. 2 However, in various reports after the 1922 expedition he was described in somewhat negative terms and these criticisms have been repeated in subsequent publications. For example, George Finch stated 'his age was more against him than it ought to be, might squander his energy in a nervousness that amounted to hysteria'.3 General Bruce wrote confidentially to Arthur Hinks, Secretary to the Everest Expedition Planning Committee,4 that Wakefield was la noble and worthy old gentleman ... does not stand great heights well ... a complete passenger'. It is true that, aged 46, Wakefield was some 10 years older than the other climbers on the team and this may have affected his performance or his team-mates' perception of him. -
Himalayan Dreaming Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990
HIMALAYAN DREAMING AUSTRALIAN MOUNTAINEERING IN THE GREAT RANGES OF ASIA, 1922–1990 HIMALAYAN DREAMING AUSTRALIAN MOUNTAINEERING IN THE GREAT RANGES OF ASIA, 1922–1990 WILL STEFFEN Published by ANU Press The Australian National University Acton ACT 2601, Australia Email: [email protected] This title is also available online at press.anu.edu.au National Library of Australia Cataloguing-in-Publication entry Author: Steffen, Will. Title: Himalayan Dreaming: Australian mountaineering in the great ranges of Asia, 1922–1990. ISBN: 9781921666162 (paperback) 9781921666179 (ebook) Notes: Includes bibliographical references. Subjects: Mountaineering --Himalaya Mountains--History. Mountaineers--Australia. Everest, Mount (China and Nepal) Other Authors/Contributors: Will Steffen Dewey Number: 796.522095496 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher. Cover design and layout by ANU Press Front cover photo: At the snow cave (camp two) about 6600 m high on Annapurna II. The two climbers are Greg Mortimer and Andy Henderson (with beard). Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape. Author photo: Carrie Steffen First edition © 2010 ANU E Press This edition © 2017 ANU Press Contents Preface . vii Terminology . ix Explanatory notes . xi Acknowledgments . xiii Part 1: Deep history—the early days 1 . Unlikely mountaineers . 3 2 . An outspoken Australian . 9 3 . Quiet years . 27 4 . The killing hills . 39 Part 2: On top—first major Aussie triumphs 5 . Pilgrimage to the silver god . 53 6 . Upwardly mobile young men . 69 7 . Long necks on Dunagiri . -
By Sandra Lockwood B.F.A., Emily Carr University of Art and Design, 2007 B.A., University of Toronto, 1983
Thin Places by Sandra Lockwood B.F.A., Emily Carr University of Art and Design, 2007 B.A., University of Toronto, 1983 Project Submitted in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of Master of Arts in Liberal Studies in the Graduate Liberal Studies Program Faculty of Arts and Social Sciences Sandra Elizabeth Lockwood 2013 SIMON FRASER UNIVERSITY Spring 2013 Approval Name: Sandra Lockwood Degree: Master of Arts in Liberal Studies Title of Project: Thin Places Examining Committee: Chair: Eleanor Stebner Associate Professor Department of Humanities Stephen Duguid Senior Supervisor Professor Department of Humanities Michael Kenny Supervisor Professor Emeritus Department of Sociology and Anthropology Robert Gordon External Examiner Professor School of Criminology Date Defended: April 12, 2013 ii Partial Copyright Licence iii Abstract This inquiry into the three great quests of the twentieth century–the South Pole, Mount Everest, and the Moon–examines our motivations to venture into these sublime, yet life- taking places. The Thin Place was once the destination of the religious pilgrim seeking transcendence in an extreme environment. In our age, the Thin Place quest has morphed into a challenge to evolve beyond the confines of our own physiology; through human ingenuity and invention, we reach places not meant to accommodate human life. The early Antarctic explorer Apsley Cherry-Garrard defined exploration as “the physical expression of intellectual passion.” Our quests to explore the end of the earth, the top of the world, and into outer space exemplify this definition. Moreover, these quests have great metaphoric value; they are symbolic of supreme achievement, and help define what it means to be human. -
High Altitude Climbing, High Reliability, COVID-19, and the Power of Observation
Peer Reviewed High Altitude Climbing, High Reliability, COVID-19, and the Power of Observation Daved van Stralen, MD, FAAP, Thomas A. Mercer, RAdm, USN the wood hut painted in silver (3)) and the American Medical Re- search Expedition to Mount Everest 1981 (4). Thirty-fve years af- Abstact: ter Hillary and Norgay's success, adventure travel was beginning Attempts to climb Mount Everest failed for thirty years until a moun- to bring to the summit those without mountaineering experience, tain climbing physiologist joined the eforts. This story demon- culminating in the highly publicized 1996 Mount Everest disaster strates the value of context, inductive processes, and pragmatism when eight climbers died in a single blizzard (5, 6). to generate local knowledge and solutions in austere, hazardous During the previous 30 years, from 1921-52, mountain climb- environments. In these environments, imperfect information and ers from eleven expeditions to Everest failed to climb higher inaccurate models can kill. This story, viewed from the climbers' than about 27,000 feet (7-11). The highest altitude climbers had experience rather than scientists or leaders, underscores the vital- reached was 1,000 feet from the peak: an altitude that seemed the ity of engaged individuals overcoming physical, social, and mental limit of human endurance with climbers. adversity to "gain altitude." At the individual level, what high alti- tude climbers learned can support the neonatologist's eforts for George Mallory: Lassitude is common, [what] was unduly the neonate to "gain life." exhausting [was]…anything that might be considered ab- normal, such as cutting steps, [d]iminution of desire to Three times men had climbed to more than 28,000 feet, unaided reach the summit (12). -
Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990
Himalayan Dreaming: Australian mountaineering in the great ranges of Asia, 1922–1990 Himalayan Dreaming: Australian mountaineering in the great ranges of Asia, 1922–1990 Will Steffen THE AUSTRALIAN NATIONAL UNIVERSITY E P R E S S E P R E S S Published by ANU E Press The Australian National University Canberra ACT 0200, Australia Email: [email protected] This title is also available online at: http://epress.anu.edu.au/himalayan_citation.html National Library of Australia Cataloguing-in-Publication entry Author: Steffen, Will. Title: Himalayan Dreaming: Australian mountaineering in the great ranges of Asia, 1922–1990. ISBN: 9781921666162 (pbk.) 9781921666179 (pdf) Notes: Includes bibliographical references. Subjects: Mountaineering --Himalaya Mountains--History. Mountaineers--Australia. Everest, Mount (China and Nepal) Other Authors/Contributors: Will Steffen Dewey Number: 796.522095496 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher. Cover design and layout by ANU E Press Front cover image: John Finnigan and Theo Hooy at the base of the west face of Baruntse, 1988. Photo by Ken Baldwin Author Photo: Carrie Steffen Back cover: Greg Mortimer on the summit of Mt Everest, 1984. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape Printed by Griffin Press This edition © 2010 ANU E Press Contents Preface . .vii Terminology . ix Explanatory notes . xi Acknowledgments . xiii Part 1: Deep history—the early days 1 . Unlikely mountaineers . 1 2 . An outspoken Australian . 7 3 . Quiet years . 25 4 . The killing hills . 37 Part 2: On top—first major Aussie triumphs 5 .