Destination Magazine # 3
D-DAY, FROM MEMORY TO EMOTION MONT & MARVELS 360 KM OF COASTLINE ON THE MOVE 1001 PATHWAYS WONDERS OF THE PENINSULA
Reconstitution during the D-Day commemorations – Saint-Marie-du-Mont
manche-tourism.com LA MANCHE MAGAZINE LA MANCHE MAGAZINE
CONTENTS
COTENTIN SAINT-LÔ AGGLO VILLEDIEU INTERCOM E8 BAY TOURIST OFFICE TOURIST OFFICE TOURIST OFFICE BRÉCEY 02 33 89 21 13 P. 4-11 ot-baieducotentin.fr ot-saintloagglo.fr ot-villedieu.fr tourisme.valdesee@ [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] msm-normandie.fr FROM MEMORY 02 33 61 05 69 D7 DUCEY-LES-CHÉRIS D-DAY 02 33 60 21 53 TO EMOTION tourisme.ducey@msm- TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION E7 Open all the year round OFFICES OPEN ALL OFFICES normandie.fr THE YEAR ROUND E5 SAINT-LÔ E4 CARENTAN-LES-MARAIS Open all the year round C9 GENÊTS 02 33 71 23 50 02 14 29 00 17 GRANVILLE TERRE & 02 33 89 64 00 [email protected] MER tourisme.genets@msm- E5 HARAS NATIONAL DE TOURIST OFFICE normandie.fr P. 12-17 SAINT-LÔ - ECURIE N°5 tourisme-granville- Open in season C9 MONT SAINT-MICHEL D3 SAINTE-MÈRE-ÉGLISE 02 33 55 29 09 terre-mer.com 02 33 60 14 30 02 33 21 00 33 [email protected] tourisme.lemontsaintmichel@ [email protected] F6 TORIGNY-LES-VILLES 02 33 91 30 03 msm-normandie.fr Open all the year round 02 33 77 42 22 F9 MORTAIN-BOCAGE WEST COAST 02 33 59 19 74 CENTRAL MANCHE TOURIST INFORMATION tourisme.mortainbocage@ OFFICES msm-normandie.fr TOURISM COUTANCES TOURISM tourisme-cocm.fr C7 BREHAL tourisme-coutances.fr Open in season [email protected] THE BAY [email protected] C10 PONTORSON C8 CAROLLES 02.33.19.08.10 02 33 60 20 65 MONT & Open in season tourisme.pontorson@ MARVELS C7 DONVILLE LES BAINS msm-normandie.fr Open in season TOURIST INFORMATION C7 GRANVILLE OFFICES TOURIST INFORMATION Open all the year round E9 SAINT-HILAIRE-DU- OFFICES OPEN ALL HARCOUËT C5 C8 CRÉANCES THE YEAR ROUND JULLOUVILLE 02 33 79 38 88 Open in season Open in season tourisme.sthilaireduharcouet 02 33 45 05 71 C6 AGON-COUTAINVILLE @msm-normandie.fr C8 SAINT-PAIR-SUR-MER C4 LA HAYE Open in season Open all the year round 02 33 46 01 42 TOURIST OFFICE D10 SAINT-JAMES C6 BLAINVILLE-SUR-MER MONT SAINT-MICHEL 02 33 89 62 38 NORMANDY tourisme.saintjames@ D6 COUTANCES msm-normandie.fr C5 LESSAY ot-montsaintmichel.com Open all the year round C8 SAINT-JEAN-LE- P. 18-23 02 33 45 14 34 THOMAS THE D7 GAVRAY 02 33 70 90 71 tourisme.saintjeanlethomas@ C6 GOUVILLE-SUR-MER msm-normandie.fr D5 PÉRIERS TOURIST INFORMATION COAST Open in season OFFICES F8 SOURDEVAL C6 HAUTEVILLE-SUR-MER 02 33 47 82 57 OPEN ALL THE YEAR ROUND 02 33 79 35 61 360 KM tourisme.sourdeval@ msm-normandie.fr D9 AVRANCHES OF COASTLINE P. 24-27 02 33 58 00 22 C5 PIROU tourisme.avranches@ Open in season msm-normandie.fr 02 33 46 30 47 All the phone numbers are ON THE MOVE C5 SAINT-GERMAIN-SUR-AY indicated for calls from France. Open in season From abroad, dial 0033 instead of 1001 02 33 07 02 75 the first digit indicated. Example: to reach 02 33 05 98 70, PATHWAYS dial 0033 2 33 05 98 70
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CONTENTS
P. 28-33 OUR HERITAGE MARVELS OF THE PENINSULA
P. 36-41 THE SEASONS ACTIVITIES WITH YOUR FAMILY P. 34 SPORTS ACTIVITY P. 35
PENINSULA OF P. 42-43 FOUR SEASONS OUR GASTRONOMY
P. 46-47.
EVENTS LA MANCHE 2019 IN SHORT P. 48 PRACTICAL P. 44-45 INFORMATION P. 49 SOUVENIRS MAP OF MADE IN LA MANCHE P. 50 TOURIST LA MANCHE OFFICES P. 51
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EVENT
Commemorations at Sainte-Mère-Eglise 4 LA MANCHE MAGAZINE
EVENT
D-DAY, FROM MEMORY TO EMOTION The duty to remember is everywhere, of course, but without losing sight of history or the emotions emerging when you follow the route to freedom.
Let’s go!
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D-DAY - 75th ANNIVERSARY
FROM THE BEACHES TO THE LIBERATION THEY WERE BRITISH, the Hedgerows and Operation CANADIAN AND Cobra. The US offensive in July AMERICAN, AS WELL AS 1944 helped the Allies to make rapid progress in reconquering BELGIAN, DUTCH, POLISH, the country and to liberate Paris NORWEGIAN AND MANY in August. Operation Overlord OTHERS. involved five beaches, including one to the west of Baie des Veys. The Allies landed on the Normandy coast on 6 June 1944. SAINTE-MARIE-DU-MONT Many men were wounded or WAS RENAMED UTAH BEACH fell in attempting to pierce the FOR ALL TIME German defences. Some of the key episodes took place in La The first phase continued Manche and have stayed in the on the following days all the memory, such as the Battle of way to Sainte-Mère-Eglise.
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D-DAY - 75th ANNIVERSARY
The US troops were able to artillery bombardment, 3,000 establish a solid bridgehead. US bombers and 600 tanks went The second phase aimed to cut off into action, leading to a rapid the Cotentin area by advancing breakthrough on the road to towards Barneville, which had Avranches in 5 days. It was only been liberated on 18 June, and after the Battle of Mortain that then to attack Cherbourg from the last German soldiers left La the west on the 26th. The port had Manche on 15 August. The Allies been partially destroyed, but was closed the pincer movement soon operating again. It welcomed around the Germans in Normandy large tonnage ships transporting and opened up the route to Paris. troops and equipment. The third phase focused on taking Saint- Lô, the prefectural capital and a gateway town. The Americans only liberated it completely on 25 July.
BATTLE OF THE HEDGEROWS
In fact, the Allies were caught in the marshland and the bocage (woodland and pasture) areas. They initially made little headway and suffered heavy losses along a 40km front. Operation Cobra, which opened up the fourth phase, was begun on 25 July, along a front that was 9 kilometres long and 2 kilometres wide, between Saint- Lô and Périers. After an intense
THE BATTLE OF NORMANDY From 6 June to the Liberation, immerse yourself in history: manche-tourism.com/history- battle-normandy
7 Utah Beach – Sainte-Marie-du-Mont LA MANCHE MAGAZINE
D-DAY - 75th ANNIVERSARY
COMMEMORATIONS THE DUTY OF MEMORY
IN LA MANCHE, THE GMC truck or a half-track. THE MEMORY OF THE D-DAY But don't forget that the LANDINGS IS KEPT ALIVE passengers dressed in the original COMMEMORATIONS uniforms are getting together to You can see all the events WITH STRENGTH AND celebrate peace, too. During the organised in La Manche for the CONVICTION. events commemorating D-Day, 75th anniversary of the D-Day reconciliation, solidarity and Landings on the website A powerful homage is paid to friendship between all nations manche-tourism.com/d-day- the magnificent heroes who died are highlighted. in the fighting or survived to commemoration become worthy veterans. The celebration of D-Day and the Liberation is an occasion each year for festive gatherings recalling the popular jubilation that followed the victory.
MANY COMMEMORATIONS, FESTIVITIES AND PERIOD DANCES ARE ORGANISED by the local authorities and enthusiastic associations from the end of spring and throughout the summer. So, when you are on holiday, don't be surprised to see an army Jeep, an American
Saint-James US military cemetery
Commemorations in the streets of Carentan
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D-DAY - 75th ANNIVERSARY
UTAH BEACH, SAINTE-MÈRE-EGLISE, CARENTAN... EXPERIENCE THE D-DAY LANDINGS
AT SEVERAL MUSEUMS, photographs show the enormous HOMAGES INCLUDING THE UTAH military challenge represented ARE EVERYWHERE PRESENT BEACH LANDING MUSEUM, by the D-Day Landings. During IN LA MANCHE. THE AIRBORNE MUSEUM a total immersion in D-Day, you can even board a C47 plane As well as suggesting the IN SAINTE-MÈRE- and relive the minutes preceding strategic scope of the Allied ÉGLISE AND THE D-DAY the great parachute jump of campaign, the D-Day and the EXPERIENCE IN SAINT- the 101st Airborne Division. Battle of Normandy route CÔME-DU-MONT, YOU CAN This impressive three- is also a chance to understand IMMERSE YOURSELF IN dimensional simulation recalls the lived experience of local THE HEART OF HISTORY. the fear that needed to be inhabitants, who played a part overcome and the bravery in an unthinkable historic event, A whole host of objects, required from the sometimes despite themselves. It never fails uniforms, equipment, films and very young soldiers. to trigger emotions.
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D-DAY - 75th ANNIVERSARY
Utah Beach
La Petite Chapelle in Mortain
Airborne Museum in Sainte-Mère-Eglise
WITH THE CHILDREN On the route to Enjoy the unique experience of a drive on board an authentic Willys Jeep from the Second World War in the places where FREEDOM the Battle of Normandy actually took place on 6 June 1944 normandyjeeptours.com
WE LOVE IT! Immersive, moving and surprising: see all the D-Day sites and museums in La Manche: manche-tourism.com (Discover, D-Day in Normandy section)
Notre Dame church in Saint-Lô, 50 % was destroyed during air raids in 1944
11 Crossing Mont Saint-Michel Bay MONT & MARVELS
Your gaze is drawn to Mont Saint- Michel and then opens up towards the immense bay and the riches surrounding the architectural jewel
Follow the guide... LA MANCHE MAGAZINE
MONT SAINT-MICHEL BAY MONT SAINT-MICHEL CROWNED BY THE Norman Gothic architecture. Over SCULPTURAL ABBEY two and a half million visitors are AND ITS DAZZLING GOLD welcomed to Mont Saint-Michel each year. A visit to the abbey is ARCHANGEL, NESTLING the high point of any trip to Mont BETWEEN THE SANDS Saint-Michel. On a pilgrimage AND THE TIDES IN AN first taken a millennium ago, you ENDLESS BAY – FOR can admire the genius and daring ALMOST 1000 YEARS of the Norman builders. MONT SAINT-MICHEL HAS STOOD OUT ON ITS ROCKY PEAK.
About 30 people live in the village, including ten or so monks and nuns from the Monastic Fraternities of Jerusalem. Here, everyone follows the rhythm of the tides and the flow of visitors coming to the village, the abbey and its Wonder, a masterpiece of VISIT MONT SAINT-MICHEL accueilmontsaintmichel.com abbaye-mont-saint-michel.fr ot-montsaintmichel.com
In Avranches, explore the history of the monk Thescribes ofScriptorial Mont Saint-Michel during a fascinating visit. At the end of the visit: a collection of beautiful, priceless and original manuscripts. scriptorial.fr
14 A SPIRITUAL site LA MANCHE MAGAZINE
MONT SAINT-MICHEL BAY
Ready for the CROSSING? MONT SAINT-MICHEL BAY
Here, where three rivers MONT SAINT-MICHEL some 50 centimetres high: meet, the Sée, the Sélune and BAY FOLLOWS the mascaret. It attracts the Couesnon, which "in its THE RHYTHM OF THE sightseers, who take care to madness, placed the Mont in POWERFUL TIDES keep to the dry land, as well as Normandy", there is perpetual canoeists who come to paddle struggle and interaction, arising The tidal range is over 14 metres on the surface of the water. from the natural elements in very powerful waters. When and the wishes of mankind... the sea rises, it gushes into the The resulting masterpiece is made bay over a width of 25 kilometres of rock, water, shifting sands, salt at a speed that is often faster marshes and farmland created on than one metre per second. This polders won back from the sea… force produces a surging wave,
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MONT SAINT-MICHEL BAY
UNESCO, ALREADY 20 YEARS! The Mont alone was not listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage site 20 years ago. It is the combination of the Wonder and the bay that makes this such a unique site. manche-tourism.com/unesco- world-heritage-sites
DARE TO CROSS THE BAY, BUT GO WITH A GUIDE! There is a real risk of being caught by the tide and the moving sands. Qualified guides, well-versed in this constantly changing environment, can take you across the sands. manche-tourism.com/crossing- bay-mont-saint-michel
17 360 km OF COASTLINE
FOR AS FAR AS THE EYE CAN SEE, THE WILD AND PRESERVED MANCHE COAST IS AN EPITOME OF ALL SEASIDE AREAS.
Let's go!
Goury lighthouse in Auderville LA MANCHE MAGAZINE
THE COAST DUNES AND HAVENS, HAVENS AND THERE IS SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE. ON THE COAST OF LA MANCHE, WE KNOW HOW DUNES... TO WELCOME AND SURPRISE VISITORS.
La Manche has360 360 km of coastline… but also over 360 islands and islets, Ravenoville cabins including the Chausey archipelago The region's large dune beaches the many havens in Regnéville- manche-tourism.com/islands- are ideal for lovers of fine sand, sur-Mer and La Vanlée. Right at of-normandy-france while the Normandy peninsula is the top of Val de Saire, Réville also well worth a visit. It is filled offers a breathtaking view over with little pieces of paradise, the island of Tatihou, and skies "pathways to the end of the world" with a captivating light. La Hague and atypical seaside villages. is a wild gem with steep cliffs Such as Ravenoville, with its covered with exotic vegetation in not-to-be-missed, colourful places and leading you straight to fishermen's houses or Gouville- - Ireland. sur-Mer and its adorable cabins And since the coast in this with their brightly coloured roofs. strongly maritime region has An ideal picnic spot, as the locals the chance to be neither flat nor well know. straight, wherever you go you are surprised to see a rich sea TREASURES OF INSPIRATION landscape, sometimes azure blue, FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS AND sometimes sky blue, navy blue or PAINTERS emerald - or all these colours at When travelling along the the same time. sightseeing route, you can go to Pointe d’Agon, a beautifully poetic sandbank and a refuge for large numbers of fauna and flora, or see Barneville-Carteret beach
19 Surfing in La Hague
SURFING KITE-SURFING SAILING KAYAK LA MANCHE MAGAZINE
THE COAST
The hardest thing is to choose. sure sign you are in very good All along the coast, you will find health! surfing spots, special facilities and above all instructors for lessons at all levels. Well, of course, the "glass half- empty" types will say the water isn't always there. Yes, it does come and go, but this is what makes the shellfish pickers so SPOILED FOR happy! Or worse still, they say, the weather is sometimes grey. CHOICE! Rubbish! First of all, in Normandy, See all the excursions, places the sky never stays grey for long, to visit and the water sports to and second, even when it does enjoy rain, we still have fun. A yellow on the coast: oilskin, a pair of wellingtons, a manche-tourism.com/seaside- long walk with your face to the normandy sea spray on the Plat-Gousset Promenade in Granville and you'll come back with rosy cheeks - a Let's get in the
SEA KAYAKS, SURFING, DIVING,WATER! ROWING, WAKEBOARDING, SAND YACHTING, SAILING, SEA HIKING, KITESURFING, WINDSURFING… SAILING LICENCES AND COURSES, SAILING SCHOOLS… FISHING, SWIMMING… IF YOU LIKE THE SEA, YOU'LL NEVER GET BORED HERE!
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THE COAST
Carolles beach
BEACHOn the FROM MONT SAINT- MICHEL TO THE BAIE DES VEYS, the coastline of La Manche has a wonderfully wide range of seaside La Potinière beach resorts. Here you will of course in Barneville-Carteret find our long, beautiful beaches, but also leisure actvities, shops, accommodation of all kinds and TO THE a large number of festive summer events. ISLANDS manche-tourism.com/beaches La Manche is a Norman peninsula, but also an archipelago. The islands of Chausey, Jersey or Guernsey are within reach by canoe, sailing boat or water bus, and at low tide you can walk to Mont Saint-Michel, Tombelaine or Tatihou. manche-tourism.com/islands- of-normandy-france Le Plat-Gousset in Granville
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THE COAST TRADES OF THE SEA WHAT WOULD THE REGION BE LIKE WITHOUT THE WORKERS OF THE SEA? Fishermen, oyster or shellfish farmers work long hours and SPECIAL face nature's challenges so as to delight our taste-buds with fish EVENTS La foire aux bulots (Whelk and seafood. Here you will always festival) in Pirou on 27 and 28 find something tasty if you are April looking for fresh produce. In the Les Voiles de Travail festival in restaurants, on the market stalls Granville from 21 to 25 August and on the fish market quays… Toute la mer sur un plateau – scallops, mussels, sea bass, Seafood and shellfish oysters, lobsters and shrimps… in Granville on 28 & 29 September Delicious! manche-tourism.com/selected- events
23 1001 PATHWAYS
EVERYONE HAS THEIR OWN WAY TO EXPLORE THE PENINSULA AND EXPERIENCE ENCOUNTERS AND NEW SURROUNDINGS, OVER HILLS AND VALLEYS.
On the way...
The Fosse-Arthour rock LA MANCHE MAGAZINE
ON THE MOVE ON FOOT...
The GR® 223 trail in La Hague OUTINGS AND HIKES FROM AN EASY WALK TO A 100% On foot, by bike or on horseback, NATURE TREK, IN LA MANCHE, THERE on your own, with your family or ARE PLENTY OF OPTIONS. friends, over 300 local trails are guaranteed to delight visitors and hikers: A thousand and one trails and the smugglers coming and manche-tourism.com/hikings and pathways to enjoy with a going from the Channel islands. chance to explore breathtaking But the trail also sometimes architectural treasures, moves inland, giving access to panoramas and landscapes. accommodation and provisions all the way. THE LEGENDARY GR® 223 TRAIL
436 kilometres - in one go during a long stay or in shorter stages - taking in all the coast of La Manche, from Baie des Veys to Mont Saint-Michel. On the way: the Cotentin marshland, the Val de Saire, the Cherbourg hills, the La Hague cliffs, the harbours, havens and Coutances woodland, before you continue on towards Granville and Mont Saint-Michel THE MAJOR HIKING TRAILS Bay. For many miles, the GR® 223 IN LA MANCHE From the GR® 223 trail to the Ways of Saint-Michel, see all the trail follows the coastal path practical information on: once used by customs officials to keep watch over the coast manche-tourism.com/long-distance-footpaths
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ON THE MOVE
ULTIMATE stage
The view over the Couesnon dam
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ON THE MOVE
La Véloscénie – Saint-Hilaire-du-Harcouët
BYWHAT ABOUT COMING BIKE... TO LA MANCHE BY BIKE? SEVERAL CYCLING TRAILS START OR LEAVE FROM HERE.
The most prestigious is La Véloscénie, a cycling trail arriving at a site that is a big motivation for many: Mont Saint-Michel. AVAILABLE SERVICES But before that, you can set off To enjoy your outing in complete freedom, La from another site that is just as Manche has made a wide range of practical symbolic, Notre-Dame Cathedral services available: Cyclists in Paris. Welcome accommodation, topographical guides and QUITE A FEW PEDAL trails online, bike rental STROKES WILL TAKE YOU stations and baggage transfer: THROUGH FORESTS, PLAINS manche-tourism.com/accueil-velo-normandy AND WOODLAND, manche-tourism.com/cycle-hire with the sight of traditional villages manche-tourism.com/accomodation-gr223 and discreet or spectacular chateaux. A powerful adventure lasting from one week to ten days THE MAJOR CYCLING along 450 kilometres of little country roads and green ways. TRAILS IN LA MANCHE The highlight is definitely in La Cross La Manche on the Véloroute from the "D-Day Landings beaches to Manche, when the profile of the Mont Saint-Michel", the Véloscénie or the more international "Eurovélo 4": Wonder looms on the horizon… manche-tourism.com/cycling-routes
27 PENINSULA OF WONDERS
You won't make the journey again here by chance, but because the region has a gift for attracting and surprising our visitors.
Tatihou Island off the coast of Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue LA MANCHE MAGAZINE
Discovery...
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OUR HERITAGE LANDMARKS for sailors
Goury lighthouse
In this land of seafaring folk, poetry is everywhere. Although some lighthouses are no longer operational, they still attract plenty The Pointe d’Agon lighthouse of contemplative visitors each year. Goury, meanwhile, keeps watch over the stormy Alderney Race. THE LIGHTS FROM THE The narrow, winding path leading LIGHTHOUSES CAN BE SEEN to the Cap Lévi lighthouse arrives AS BRIGHT DOTS ALONG THE at a cliff with a breathtaking view. COAST And if you still have energy to spare, you should head for the The Granville lighthouse was built foot of the granite rock below on a rock and sends out signals the Gatteville lighthouse. After to its counterpart on the main climbing the 365 steps of the Chausey island. When you go monument, which is open to along the west coast, you will see visitors, you can enjoy a dizzying the Pointe d’Agon semaphore in 360-degree view over the wrecker its picture postcard setting. In Barfleur strait. Carteret, all eyes are drawn to the dance of the sailing ships as they return to port, guided by manche-tourism.com/ The top of the Gatteville lighthouse the lighthouse. The guardian of martitime-heritage-normandy
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OUR HERITAGE
Lessay Abbey
The cloister of Mont Saint-Michel Abbey
Lucerne-d’Outremer Abbey
Should you have any little hesitations before you come, STONES then the architectural heritage, starting with Mont Saint-Michel and its eternal bay, which are listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites, will be enough to persuade you. Of course, the pilgrimage to the age-old Benedictine abbey and the walk across the sands subjected to the to and fro of and heritage the tides, among the biggest in Europe, provoke unmatched emotions. But if you are setting out on the adventure, then you should also go on to explore the unsuspected treasures of the old stone walls in the abbeys of Lessay, Hambye, Lucerne- d’Outremer and Cerisy-la-Forêt. They rise majestically in a green, peaceful and silent setting.
manche-tourism.com/heritage- Hambye Abbey normandy
31 Vauville botanical garden LA MANCHE MAGAZINE
OUR HERITAGE FRUITFUL
There is a different atmosphere Côté Jardins, has drawn up 29 and new things to see in this fertile sites to visit, with a programme land, in exceptional gardens running from May to October, and enjoying the seasons to the full. an indispensable guide for both In Vauville, the giant rhubarbs beginnerssoil and experts in botany. and other exotic curiosities welcome holidaymakers in manche-tourism.com/parks- search of shade and coolness, and-gardens-normandy while in Champrepus, the zoo with its heady fragrances draws children's eyes to distant lands. On Tatihou Island, marine plants and migrating birds live in a protected environment. La Manche is a giant-sized garden. The Cotentin-based association,
The gardens around Les Rhumbs villa, the Christian Dior Museum in Granville
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ACTIVITIES
LA MANCHE
ENJOY ALL THE "FAMILY PLUS" RESORT SERVICES IN LA MANCHE Three seaside resorts on the west coast, Agon-Coutainville, Barneville-Carteret, Hauteville- with sur-Mer, and one "green" resort in the countryside, Saint-Hilaire- du-Harcouët, have the "Family Plus" label. A wide range of your family WITH THE facilities and activities on offer for all ages: manual workshops, CHILDREN marbles competitions, whodunit La Manche is a vast playground. investigations, sand-yachting and Beaches and activities beside the skimboarding for beginners, and sea, walks, beautiful or fun sights much else besides! So how about a to see, zoos or theme parks, get trip to the seaside or the country together and make some of your with the children? finest memories. manche-tourism.com/family- manche-tourism.com/families- plus-label in-normandy
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ACTIVITIES SPORTS
OUTINGS AND HIKES ACTIVITY ON THE WATER MANCHE 2019 - N°1/12 A trip to the Chausey archipelago with a visit to the mussel and oyster parks in La Manche in a sea-kayak. Leaving from Granville, on board the "La Grande Ancre", an oyster fishing boat, you arrive at the wild islets on the east of the Chausey archipelago. Here you can have a picnic, either on board or on an isolated beach with the crew, who will talk about their work as oyster farmers. As the tide goes out, you can see the bouchots (shellfish beds) from a two-seater sea-kayak (adapted to beginners). Then, at low tide, Alban or Ian will take you on a visit on foot to the oyster or clam parks, before you board the kayaks again and return to "La Grande Ancre" and head back to Granville.
OUTINGS, VISITS AND HIKING IN THE WATER IN LA MANCHE In a sand yacht, on a stand-up paddle, a sailing boat or a canoe... Set off for a trip on the water, in the sea or in the river, with a guide or on your own in complete freedom! See our 17 ideas for visits, outings and sea hikes in La Manche. manche-tourism.com/excursions- coast-normandy
35 The Vanlée Haven PENINSULA OF FOUR SEASONS IN LA MANCHE, THE FOUR SEASONS ARE WELL MARKED AND QUITE DISTINCT, BUT ALSO MISCHIEVOUS, SPRINGING SURPRISES AND SOMETIMES CONCENTRATING ALL THEIR REPERTOIRE IN A SINGLE DAY! Let's go! LA MANCHE MAGAZINE
THE SEASONS WINTER
HERE, THERE ARE THREE "WHITE COATS" HELPING YOU THROUGH WINTER WITH PERFECT PEACE OF MIND. From one end of the region to Mont Saint-Michel Bay is simply another, the frosty mornings, magical. together with the low reflections from the rising sun, show off the country landscapes at their best. In the centre of the region, the vast Cotentin and Bessin GRANVILLE Marshes Regional Nature Park is filled with fertile water. This CARNIVAL "white marshland" turns the The Carnival is listed as part of landscape into an endless mirror, the world’s Intangible Cultural reflecting the Arctic blue winter Heritage event by UNESCO since sky and thousands of migrating 2016. This not-to-be-missed birds. event has existed for 145 years If by chance, the first season of and is a fitting way to celebrate the year is in generous mood, Mardi Gras: then snow flakes even fall on the carnaval-de-granville.fr coast. The sight of snow covering
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THE SEASONS
LA CITÉ DE LA MER In Cherbourg-en- Cotentin, has a new look. A new "Ocean of the Future" area has opened Nez de Jobourg citedelamer.com SPRING ITS FIRST TIMID APPEARANCE CAN BE SEEN ON THE ROAD SIDES AND IN THE MIDDLE OF THE FIELDS.
Primroses and gilded daffodils are the first signs of warm days to come. In April delicate blossom appears on the apple trees. A jazz tune can be heard in the distance in Coutances. The Carentan marshes are greener than ever. Up near Vauville, plants with a tropical appearance challenge the clichés. In the sea, whelk-harvesting replaces sea- bass fishing. Créances carrots, mangetout and shallots fill the market stalls. The high tides draw shellfish pickers to their favourite spot. Villedieu-les-Poêles market
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THE SEASONS SUMMER
Swimming in Chausey
SUMMER TIME SENDS In Granville and Barneville- yachts hurtle along at top speed. NIGHT OWLS TO BED Carteret, the skippers have made Tatihou Island gets ready to host EVEN LATER AND INVITES the most of the winter to have world music and its fans/hikers, their boats looking spick and span. while further south, pilgrims from VISITORS FOR A WALK TO They will set off in full sail when all over the world cross other THE POINTE D’AGON. the sun comes out again, heading famous stretches of sand. for the Chausey archipelago and the Channel Islands. It feels like summer and you can smell the mussels and chips in Blainville and Barfleur. People flock to the café terraces at the sea front and to the sun loungers, swimmers wait for high tide and the beach-volleyball players have plenty of room to send the ball back and forth. Further out, sand
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THE SEASONS AUTUMN THE SUMMER HOLIDAYS ARE OVER, BUT AUTUMN AND OYSTERS HAVE TO WAIT BEFORE THEIR TIME HAS REALLY COME. THERE IS AN INDIAN SUMMER EACH YEAR IN LA MANCHE.
The vitamin-rich benefits of the sunshine continue to take effect, before giving way to a sea air filled with storms and crashing waves. The prevailing winds strip the trees and cover the countryside with autumn leaves, while the white sea foam comes knocking at the doors of the houses at the seaside. It is time to go further inland. And as a soundtrack for this seasonal journey and to celebrate autumn, the electric sounds of the "Rendez-vous Soniques" Music Festival arrive on the famous stage in Saint-Lô.
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GASTRONOMY
BLUE LOBSTER from Chausey
SALMON from Cherbourg-en-Cotentin
RAW CREAM
TRAPPE DE BRICQUEBEC
Delicious, fragrant, colourful... La Manche gastronomy is SCALLOPS highly varied, raw or refined, but always tasty!
OYSTERS west coast
WHELKS west coast 42 LA MANCHE MAGAZINE
GASTRONOMY
CARROTS FROM CREANCES AOP LEEKS from Val de Saire
COTENTIN AOC CIDER
UNPASTEURISED CAMEMBERT
UNSALTED BUTTER
OYSTERS east coast
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SOUVENIRS
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SOUVENIRS
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45 LA MANCHE MAGAZINE
EVENTS 2019
Experience ALL THROUGH THE YEAR La Manche THE FAIRS AND MARKETS, A MANCHE TRADITION Six fairs, some of them several centuries old, and almost 200 traditional markets attract thousands of visitors each year. The towns of Saint-Lô and Cherbourg-en-Cotentin are home to the biggest Saturday markets with over 150 market stalls. See the list of markets on manche-tourism.com/markets-normandy
MARCH MAY JUNE GRANVILLE CARNIVAL STOPOVER OF THE 75TH ANNIVERSARY 1st to 5 March 2019 HERMIONE OF THE D-DAY LANDINGS A Normandy institution for CHERBOURG-EN- Around 6 June 2019 the past 145 years and now COTENTIN Ceremonies, reconstitutions of listed by UNESCO as part of 6 to 8 May 2019 US army camps, historic parades, humanity's Intangible Cultural The Hermione military memorabilia markets, Heritage. m a k e s Cherbourg historic parachute jumps, carnaval-de-granville.fr its port of call for three days of exhibitions and parades of army festivities. vehicles are organised all through hermione.com/voyage/navigation-2019 the commemorations celebrating the liberation. APRIL cherbourg.fr ot-baieducotentin.fr/d-day-1944/ FRANCO–BRITISH PLANT DAYS debarquement-manche.fr Château de Crosville-sur-Douve 20 and 21 April 2019 PAPILLONS DE NUIT FESTIVAL #19 Over 60 exhibitors in the courtyard Saint-Laurent-de-Cuves and around the château. 7 to 9 June 2019 chateaucrosville.org JAZZ SOUS LES POMMIERS The festival celebrating all styles of FESTIVAL Coutances music and attracting a wide range 25 May to 1st June 2019 of audiences for three festive days. EXHIBITION The festival offers "jazz for all" papillonsdenuit.com "GRACE OF (jazz, blues, soul, funk, Latin-jazz, MONACO, electro, gospel, klezmer, swing, etc.). PRINCESS IN JULY DIOR" jazzsouslespommiers.com Christian "THE CHRONICLES Dior Museum THE 9th BIENNIAL OF THE 9th ART: OF THE MONT – in Granville JACK KIRBY AND THE GALAXY THE COMBAT" at 25 April to OF SUPERHEROES Thomas Henry Mont Saint-Michel 17 November Museum in Cherbourg-en Cotentin abbey 2019 25 May to 1st September 2019 6 July to 31 August This year, the museum, in The exhibition features a wide range of 2019 partnership with the Principality activities and around 150 exhibits: Immerse yourself in an evening of Monaco, is exhibiting original drawings, sketches and visit with a wonderful symphony of collections that belonged to illustrations, silkscreen prints, figures visions, dazzling effects and sound Grace Kelly, Princess of Monaco. and statues, comic books, etc. mirages. musee-dior-granville.com cherbourg.fr abbaye-mont-saint-michel.fr
46 LA MANCHE MAGAZINE
EVENTS 2019
"SORTIES DE BAIN" STREET ART PIPER OPERATION COBRA "VIA AETERNA" FESTIVAL FESTIVAL Granville Granville / Jullouville. September 2019 4 to 9 July 2019 31 July to 4 August 2019 Mont Saint-Michel and Bay The festival opens up summer in Around one of the biggest Music Festival. Some of the Granville with over 50 live shows. reconstitutions of an Allied music scene's most talented sortiesdebain.com army base, this international pianists, cellists, chamber music airfestival will feature 150 planes ensembles and choirs. TOUR VOILE SAILING RACE from 1944. via-aeterna.com STAGE Jullouville facebook.com/ 10 and 11 July 2019 PiperOperationCobra/ TOUTE LA MER SUR UN PLATEAU Two days of regattas near the SEAFOOD AND SHELLFISH coast and the public. AUGUST FESTIVAL tourvoile.fr Granville NORMANDY HORSE SHOW 28 and 29 September 2019 GULF STREAM JAZZ FESTIVAL Saint-Lô A great popular, festive and Barneville–Carteret 2 to 11 August 2019 educational event, exploring The major horse-riding event of 17 to 21 July 2019 the diversity of the professions the year. Sport, horse-breeding, Right next to the water, jazz and the region's gastronomic shows. comes to the port in a festive riches. normandiehorseshow.com atmosphere. ports.granville.cci.fr gulfstreamjazzfestival.com
LES HEURES MUSICALES FESTIVAL AT LESSAY ABBEY
FESTIVAL "LES TRAVERSÉES TATIHOU - WORLD MUSIC" Tatihou Island, Saint-Vaast-la- Hougue and Val de Saire 23 August to 1st September 2019 NOVEMBER 19 July to 16 August 2019 Baroque music festival, in the An original festival with traditional LES RENDEZ-VOUS SONIQUES enchanting setting of the and world music, and all linked FESTIVAL Norman abbey of Lessay. to the high tides. You cross the Saint-Lô 6 to 10 November 2019 heuresmusicalesdelessay.com foreshore to reach the island where the concerts take place. The autumn festival provides a programme featuring headline GLISS’FESTIVAL culture.manche.fr artists alongside new and regional Barneville–Carteret patrimoine.manche.fr talents. 20 and 21 July 2019 lesrendezvoussoniques.com For two days, almost 20,000 SEPTEMBER festival-goers can enjoy shows and demonstrations free of LA SAINTE CROIX FAIR charge. Lessay 6 to 8 September 2019 glissfestival.fr The biggest fair in Normandy. A JAZZ EN BAIE FESTIVAL centuries-old institution with 24 July to 4 August 2019 traditional horses auctions, A jazz and contemporary music markets, agricultural equipment, festival with 300 artists and 50 roast-meat sellers... Schedule as of 31/12/18 based on concerts. lessay.fr/foire-sainte-croix/ information provided by organisers. jazzenbaie.com lessay-manche.htm
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IN SHORT
POPULATION
499,287 inhabitants (84 inhabitants per km) Cherbourg-en-Cotentin 80,616 Saint-Lô (prefecture) 19,301 Granville 13,175 Coutances 8,688 Avranches 7,766 (Source: INSEE - 2015 on 01/01/2018)
LA MANCHE NATURE 4,000 hectares of land listed as sensitive nature areas. 2 regional nature parks – Cotentin and Bessin / Normandy- Maine Marshlands. 6 nature reserves: the Mathon peatbog, the national forest of GEOGRAPHY Cerisy, the Vauville pond, the 138 km fromin north to southshort... & 59 km from east to west Beauguillot reserve, the marshes Surface area: 5,938 km of Sangsurière and L’Adriennerie. 360 km of coastline Over 7,000 km of signposted The islands: Mont Saint-Michel, Tombelaine, Chausey, Tatihou, Saint- hiking trails. Marcouf & l’Île Pelée. 15 metres of tide range (the The neighbours: Brittany (Haute Bretagne), Pays de Loire (Mayenne), difference between the water Calvados and Orne, which are also in Normandy, and of course our level at high and low tides) in Mont cousins in the Channel Islands of Jersey, Guernsey and Alderney, just a Saint-Michel Bay - the highest few miles off our coast. tides in Europe.
1 event listed as part of 1 of the "Most Beautiful TOURISM humanity's Intangible Villages in France" LISTINGS AND Cultural Heritage by Barfleur LABELS UNESCO 2 "Towns and Regions 2 sites are listed as Granville Carnival of Art and History" UNESCO World Heritage Coutances and Clos du sites 4 "Family Plus" resorts Cotentin (around Bricquebec, Mont Saint-Michel and the Agon-Coutainville, Saint-Sauveur-le-Vicomte and bay, the La Hougue and Hauteville-sur-Mer, Valognes) Tatihou Vauban towers in Barneville-Carteret and 1 "Town and Crafts of the Arts" Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue Saint-Hilaire-du-Harcouët Villedieu-les-Poêles
48 LA MANCHE MAGAZINE
PRACTICAL PRACTICAL
EXCURSIONS TO THE ISLANDS CROSSINGS TO CHAUSEYinformation ENGLAND AND GRANVILLE JOLIE FRANCE IRELAND Ferry Terminal - Rue des Isles CHERBOURG-EN-COTENTIN Tel. 02 33 50 31 81 vedettejoliefrance.com TO THE UNITED KINGDOM THE CHANNEL ISLANDS BRITTANY FERRIES Transmanche Ferry Terminal GRANVILLE - BARNEVILLE-CARTERET - DIÉLETTE Tel. 02 33 88 44 88 / 0 825 828 828 MANCHE ILES EXPRESS brittany-ferries.co.uk Tel. 0 825 131 050 Cherbourg to Portsmouth and manche-iles.com/en/ Poole.
TO IRELAND FIND YOUR IRISH FERRIES ACCOMMODATION Transmanche Ferry Terminal IN LA MANCHE Tel. 02 33 23 44 44 irishferries.com By the sea or in the countryside, Cherbourg to Rosslare and Dublin plan your holiday in La Manche by choosing and booking your STENA LINE LIMITED rental accommodation, hotel, Transmanche Ferry Terminal guesthouse, campsite, holiday Tel. 02 33 43 23 87 village or original accommodation stenaline.fr on Cherbourg to Rosslare manche-tourism.com All the phone numbers are indicated for calls from France. From abroad, dial 0033 instead of the first digit indicated. Example: to reach 02 33 05 98 70, dial 0033 2 33 05 98 70
La Manche tourist destination magazine published in February 2019 by: Latitude Manche - Comité Départemental du Tourisme de la Manche - Maison du Département – 98 route de Candol - CS 73108 – 50008 SAINT-LÔ Cedex Editors: S. Montagne-Grésille, G. Lebourgois / Création : DGC Communication – Saint-Lô / Printing: Imprimerie Le Révérend
Photo credits: Anibas Photography (p.2-17-21-31-35-39-46), Archives départementales de la Manche-US Army (p.6), Atelier scénographique/Pascal Payeur (p.39), S. Barrault (p.17-35), A. Bertrand (p. 21-23-32-38-41), Best Jobers (cover and p. 2-3-12-13-14-15-18-19-22-23-39-48), C. Cauchard (p. 9), Centre des Monuments Nationaux (p. 46), David Daguier (p. 3-9-31), J. Damase (p. 27), D. Darrault (p. 17-26-27), S. Dubromel (p. 38), Fotolia (p. 33-34), B. Ghio pour World Else (p. 3-25-28-29-30-49), D. Griffouillère/Motor Life Style (p. 4-5-7-10-52), A. Guérin (p. 25), T. Houyel (p. 7-11-19-31-47), J. Houyvet (p. 16-20-40), A. Lamoureux (p. 2-11-24), F. Latreille (p. 46), P.-Y. Le Meur (p. 3-11-44-45-46), M. Lerouge (p. 3-7-14-22-30-36-37-41), G. Mignard (p. 8-20-21-22-40), MLP (p. 47), M. Mochon (p. 40), Office de tourisme du Cotentin (p. 11), Office de tourisme Saint-Lô Agglo (p. 11), On Met Les Voiles - Le81 – Studio photo vidéo (p. 42-43), Rorold (p. 41), N. Rottiers (p. 38), Siptorial - CDT50 (p. 14), Team Extrem (p. 62), Vedettes Jolie France (p. 65), Ville de Granville (p. 33), X. Any reproduction, even partial, of articles or illustrations published in this magazine is strictly forbidden. This magazine is not contractual and, despite the care taken in producing it, it may contain errors for which Latitude Manche cannot be held responsible.
49 LA MANCHE MAGAZINE
TOURIST OFFICES Listed by area from North to South in the department, then in alphabetical order by municipality COTENTIN D1 D3 C3 TOURIST OFFICE FERMANVILLE MONTEBOURG SAINT-SAUVEUR-LE- Open in season Open all the year round VICOMTE encotentin.fr Open all the year round E1 BARFLEUR D2 QUINEVILLE Open all the year round Open in season Office de Tourisme DU COT ENT N CLOS DU COTENTIN C3 BRICQUEBEC 02 33 40 11 55 Open all the year round TOURIST INFORMATION [email protected] E2 SAINT-VAAST-LA-HOUGUE OFFICES Open all the year round
LA COTE DES ISLES D2 QUETTEHOU 02 33 04 90 58 Open all the year round C2 VALOGNES [email protected] Open all the year round
B3 BARNEVILLE-CARTERET Open all the year round
B4 PORT-BAIL Open all the year round
C4 DENNEVILLE Open in season
LA HAGUE 02 33 52 74 94 [email protected]
B1 BEAUMONT-HAGUE Open all the year round
B2 LES PIEUX Open all the year round
A1 PORT OF GOURY/ AUDERVILLE Open in season
B2 PORT DIELETTE Open in season
CHERBOURG-EN-COTENTIN 02 33 93 52 02 [email protected]
C1 CHERBOURG-EN- COTENTIN Open all the year round
VAL DE SAIRE 02 33 71 99 71 [email protected] D1 SAINT-PIERRE-EGLISE 1034-50/JMP/12-18 Open all the year round
50 LA MANCHE MAGAZINE LA MANCHE MAGAZINE
CONTENTS
COTENTIN SAINT-LÔ AGGLO VILLEDIEU INTERCOM E8 BAY TOURIST OFFICE TOURIST OFFICE TOURIST OFFICE BRÉCEY 02 33 89 21 13 P. 4-11 ot-baieducotentin.fr ot-saintloagglo.fr ot-villedieu.fr tourisme.valdesee@ [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] msm-normandie.fr FROM MEMORY 02 33 61 05 69 D7 DUCEY-LES-CHÉRIS D-DAY 02 33 60 21 53 TO EMOTION tourisme.ducey@msm- TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION E7 Open all the year round OFFICES OPEN ALL OFFICES normandie.fr THE YEAR ROUND E5 SAINT-LÔ E4 CARENTAN-LES-MARAIS Open all the year round C9 GENÊTS 02 33 71 23 50 02 14 29 00 17 GRANVILLE TERRE & 02 33 89 64 00 [email protected] MER tourisme.genets@msm- E5 HARAS NATIONAL DE TOURIST OFFICE normandie.fr P. 12-17 SAINT-LÔ - ECURIE N°5 tourisme-granville- Open in season C9 MONT SAINT-MICHEL D3 SAINTE-MÈRE-ÉGLISE 02 33 55 29 09 terre-mer.com 02 33 60 14 30 02 33 21 00 33 [email protected] tourisme.lemontsaintmichel@ [email protected] F6 TORIGNY-LES-VILLES 02 33 91 30 03 msm-normandie.fr Open all the year round 02 33 77 42 22 F9 MORTAIN-BOCAGE WEST COAST 02 33 59 19 74 CENTRAL MANCHE TOURIST INFORMATION tourisme.mortainbocage@ OFFICES msm-normandie.fr TOURISM COUTANCES TOURISM tourisme-cocm.fr C7 BREHAL tourisme-coutances.fr Open in season [email protected] THE BAY [email protected] C10 PONTORSON C8 CAROLLES 02.33.19.08.10 02 33 60 20 65 MONT & Open in season tourisme.pontorson@ MARVELS C7 DONVILLE LES BAINS msm-normandie.fr Open in season TOURIST INFORMATION C7 GRANVILLE OFFICES TOURIST INFORMATION Open all the year round E9 SAINT-HILAIRE-DU- OFFICES OPEN ALL HARCOUËT C5 C8 CRÉANCES THE YEAR ROUND JULLOUVILLE 02 33 79 38 88 Open in season Open in season tourisme.sthilaireduharcouet 02 33 45 05 71 C6 AGON-COUTAINVILLE @msm-normandie.fr C8 SAINT-PAIR-SUR-MER C4 LA HAYE Open in season Open all the year round 02 33 46 01 42 TOURIST OFFICE D10 SAINT-JAMES C6 BLAINVILLE-SUR-MER MONT SAINT-MICHEL 02 33 89 62 38 NORMANDY tourisme.saintjames@ D6 COUTANCES msm-normandie.fr C5 LESSAY ot-montsaintmichel.com Open all the year round C8 SAINT-JEAN-LE- P. 18-23 02 33 45 14 34 THOMAS THE D7 GAVRAY 02 33 70 90 71 tourisme.saintjeanlethomas@ C6 GOUVILLE-SUR-MER msm-normandie.fr D5 PÉRIERS TOURIST INFORMATION COAST Open in season OFFICES F8 SOURDEVAL C6 HAUTEVILLE-SUR-MER 02 33 47 82 57 OPEN ALL THE YEAR ROUND 02 33 79 35 61 360 KM tourisme.sourdeval@ msm-normandie.fr D9 AVRANCHES OF COASTLINE P. 24-27 02 33 58 00 22 C5 PIROU tourisme.avranches@ Open in season msm-normandie.fr 02 33 46 30 47 All the phone numbers are ON THE MOVE C5 SAINT-GERMAIN-SUR-AY indicated for calls from France. Open in season From abroad, dial 0033 instead of 1001 02 33 07 02 75 the first digit indicated. Example: to reach 02 33 05 98 70, PATHWAYS dial 0033 2 33 05 98 70
2 51 Destination Magazine # 3
D-DAY, FROM MEMORY TO EMOTION MONT & MARVELS 360 KM OF COASTLINE ON THE MOVE 1001 PATHWAYS WONDERS OF THE PENINSULA
Reconstitution during the D-Day commemorations – Saint-Marie-du-Mont
manche-tourism.com