Coastal Paddling Route Trip Planner V. 1.1

Pukaskwa National Park parkscanada.gc.ca

Coastal Paddling Route Trip Planner v. 1.1

1 Contents

Bii san go biishan endaaing 3 Using this Trip Planner 5 Suggested Trips 7 Getting Here 8 Groceries and Supplies 9 Medical and Veterinary Services 9 Licensed Outfitters and Water Taxis 9 You Need to Knowr 10 Backcountry Reservations 12 Registration and Orientation 12 Backcountry Fee Estimator 15 Annual Passes 15 Hattie Cove · Bii to bii gong 16 Picture Rock Harbour · Gaa bii tawopka 18 White River Portage · Waabishkaa ziibi 20 Mouth of the White River · Waabishkaa ziibi 22 White River Lower Falls · Chigaamiwinigum 24 Willow River · Wedoopki ziibi 26 Fish Harbour 30 Cave Harbour · Gawii babka 32 Oiseau Bay · Wiso wikwedon 34 Nicols Cove · 36 Fisherman’s Cove · Ganiimebinewan 38 White Gravel River · Gaziinins dongang ziibi 40 North of White Spruce Harbour · 42 White Spruce Harbour · Migizi awatik goonsing 44 Simon’s Harbour · Gichi migizi awatikgoon 46 Hideaway Lake 48 North Swallow River · 50 Giiwednong zhaashawinibiis wi ziibi 50 Trapper Harbour · Nandawenjige nini wiikwed 52 Triangle Harbour · 54 Cascade Falls · Ga waa saji waana 56 Otter Island · Nigi shtgwaaning minis 58 Deep Harbour · 60 Bonamie Cove · 62 Imogene Cove · 64 Imogene Point · 66 Pukaskwa River · Bii-skikaag saateg ziibi 68 Leave No Trace 71 Gear Checklist 72 Coastal Hiking Trail Distance Chart 74

2 Bii san go biishan endaaing Welcome to Our Home

We, the Anishinaabe, are people of the north shore of Lake Superior. We have known this land, which is now called Pukaskwa National Park, for generations. Pukaskwa is a harsh land where the Anishinaabe have experienced disappointments and rewards.

As a child, how beautiful, strong, and refreshing it was - the feeling of living beside the lake. Families knew how to travel the land in any season and how to read the weather to have a safe journey. At Oiseau Bay, we would escape from the elements under a warm lean-to. We would quickly get a relaxing campfire going to break the wind. For the Anishinaabe, the land was where we grew up, where we experienced a sense of belonging - it was our home.

Pukaskwa is still a home for us. If you would like to learn more Ojibway teachings from this area, drop by the Anishinaabe Camp near the Visitor Centre. First Nations interpreters will give you a glimpse of some local traditions. It is a place for everyone to share our culture, and, if you’re lucky, maybe some hot tea and bannock too. We look forward to seeing you there.

Collette Goodchild, Cultural Interpreter and Elder of the Pic River First Nation

3 4

Planning to paddle the wildest shore of all the Great Lakes? This guide will help you find all the information you need to plan, pack, and have a safe and memorable trip on the Coastal Paddling Route. Each campsite is profiled with photographs, site information, and a story about the place. Many of these stories were collected during a series of oral history interviews conducted in 1979, others come from our own staff who have travelled these routes for decades.

We’ve designed this guide to help you plan your dream trip. It is NOT intended for navigation, nor as a sole source of information. We recommend you use this guide along with Chrismar’s “The Adventure Maps: Pukaskwa”, a Pukaskwa National Park Map, National Topographic Service maps for the region, as well as advice from paddlers who have done the route.

We are also working on Trip Planners for the Pukaskwa River, and the White River. If you have ideas, corrections, or even a photograph you think will improve the guide, please contact ont-pukaskwa@ pc.gc.ca.

# Number of Campsites Information

Campsite for Hikers Telephone Campsite for Paddlers @ Internet Pit Privy Showers

Firepit Recycling

Bear Box for Food Storage Picnic Area

Parking Car Camping

5 © Parks Canada ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !! ! ! Marathon 17 ! ! ! ! ! ! !! ! ! ! ! Pic Mobert First Nation 627 ! !

Heron Bay ! Pukaskwa National Park N

! Pic River First Nation Coastal Paddling Route

Hattie Cove ! Playter Harbour ! Picture Rock Harbour Chigaamiwinigum Falls White River Mouth - North ! White River Mouth - South ! White River

Willow River !!

! Morrison Harbour ! Willow River ! Lurch Birch Lake Fish Harbour ! Lake Cave Harbour ! Lake Superior ! Louie Lake! Oiseau Bay ! ! Nicols Cove ! Fisherman’s Cove ! ! ! ! White Gravel River ! White Gravel River North of White Spruce Harbour White Spruce Harbour

Simons Harbour

Hideaway Lake

Swallow River North Swallow River

Trapper Harbour

Triangle Harbour Cascade River

Cascade Falls

Otter Island

Deep Harbour Lake Superior

Bonamie Cove 0 4 Kilometres 0 4 Miles Imogene Cove

Imogene Point Pukaskwa River 6 Pukaskwa River Suggested Trips

Willow River Weekend Pukaskwa River - Hattie Cove 2 nights, 3 days 5 nights, 6 days Need a weekend to reset and relax? Treat yourself to a boat tour to start off your Day One Arrive and camp at Hattie Cove Coastal Hiking Trail adventure. Day Two Paddle to Willow River Day One Boat tour from Hattie Cove to Pukaskwa River Day Three Paddle to Hattie Cove Paddle to Imogene Cove Total 24 km paddle Day Two Paddle to Otter Island Explore Otter Cove Escape to White River 1 night, 2 days Day Three Paddle to North Swallow River Only here for a night? Try this trip. Day Four Paddle to Nicol’s Cove Day One Paddle to White River mouth Day Five Paddle to Willow River Day Two Return to Hattie Cove Day Six Hike to Hattie Cove Total 12 km paddle Total 90 km paddle Optional Paddle 5 km further to the White River Suspension Bridge Hattie Cove - Michipicoten 9 nights, 10 days Fall Fishing Check it off your Bucket List. 3 nights, 4 days Day One Paddle to Willow River. Day Two Paddle to Nicol’s Cove Day One Water taxi to White Gravel River Day Three Paddle to Simons Harbour Day Two Fish and explore Day Four Paddle to Cascade Falls Day Three Paddle to White River Day Five Paddle to Pukaskwa River Day Four Return to Hattie Cove Day Six Paddle to Redsucker Cove Total 37 km paddle Day Seven Paddle to Floating Heart Bay Beach Vacation Day Eight Paddle to University/Dog River 4 nights, 5 days Hike to Denison Falls Take a break on Pukaskwa’s best beaches. Day Nine Paddle to Dorry River Day One Water taxi to Pukaskwa River Day Ten Paddle to Michipicoten Paddle to Imogene Cove Total 160 km paddle Day Two Paddle to Cascade Falls Day Three Paddle to Simons Harbour Day Four Paddle to Cave Harbour Day Five Paddle to Hattie Cove Total 90 km paddle

7 Getting Here

ONTARIO

Hearst

Geraldton Longlac Lake Nipigon Hornepayne N Manitouwadge 11 W E

Pays Plat Nipigon Terrace S First Nation Bay Pic Mobert First Nation Marathon

11/17 White River Pic River First Nation 17 Dubreuilville

1 2 Michipicoten Wawa First Nation

Lake Superior 17 Legend 1 Pukaskwa National Park 2 Lake Superior National Marine Conservation Area Sault Ste. 3 Sault Ste. Marie Canal National Historic Site Marie 4 Fort St. Joseph National Historic Site 3

100 km 4 60 mi

By Car or Bicycle By Plane By Bus By Canoe or Kayak Follow TransCanada Several major airlines, Greyhound Canada Paddling into Highway 17 to Highway including Air Canada, offers bus service to Pukaskwa’s Hattie Cove 627. Take Highway 627 Porter, and WestJet, Marathon, ON. Taxi can be tricky - it’s easy 15 km to Pukaskwa provide service to service is available from to paddle by without National Park and Thunder Bay, ON (YQT) Marathon to Pukaskwa. seeing the protected the Hattie Cove and Sault Ste Marie, ON cove. Be sure to Campground and Day (YAM). landmark carefully when Use Area. paddling this stretch. 8 Driving Times and Distances

Driving Distances hrs:mins hrs:mins & Times km/mi by car km/mi by car Marthon, ON 25/16 0:25 Duluth, MN 620/385 8:15 Thunder Bay, ON 320/200 4:00 Minneapolis, MN 865/535 10:30 Sault Ste. Marie, ON 415/260 5:00 Detroit, MI 970/605 10:55 Winnipeg, MB 1000/620 12:00 Chicago, IL 1180/730 13:20 Toronto, ON 1110/690 13:15 Ottawa, ON 1200/745 14:45

Licensed Outfitters and Water Taxis

Caribou Expeditions McCuaig Marine Services Naturally Superior Adventures www.caribou-expeditions.com Find them here on Facebook. www.naturallysuperior.com

1021 Mission Rd PO Box 442 RR 1 Lake Superior Goulais River ON P0S 1E0 Marathon ON P0T2E0 Wawa ON P0S 1K0 Phone: 1-800-970-6662 Phone: 1-807-229-0193 Phone: 1-800-203-9092 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected]

Guided Tours Boat Tours Guided Tours Instruction Water Taxi Service Instruction Sales and Rentals Sales and Rentals Vehicle Shuttles Vehicle Shuttles

Groceries and Supplies Doctors and Veterinarians

The Town of Marathon is the closest full-service We hope you don’t need these, but if you do, there community. Two large grocery stores, three is a hospital and a pharmacy in Marathon. hardware stores, and several other businesses can provide all the food, fuel, and supplies you Although a mobile veterinary service comes to require for a backcountry trip. (Park staff buy trip Marathon weekly, the next closest veterinary service food locally all the time!). is in Thunder Bay. If you’re bringing your best friend, be extra cautious. If you prefer pre-packaged backcountry meals or require specialty food items or equipment, the cities of Thunder Bay and Sault Sault Ste. Marie have several grocery and camping supply stores to meet your needs.

9 You Need to Know

Rugged and Remote Average Temperatures and Monthly Rainfall Pukaskwa is a remote, rugged place where res- Pukaskwa’s cool, sunny summer days are perfect cues take time. Remember: you are responsible for exploring, or a quick swim. May - September, for your own safety. we experience 75-100 mm / 3-4” of monthly rainfall. Just remember that snow can fall in June Bears and September. Black bears live in Pukaskwa, and are occasion- ally seen along the coast. Bear boxes and hangs Month Low High are available for overnight food and supply storage along the Coastal Hiking Trail. Take precautions May 3°C / 37°F 14°C / 57°F and be prepared for an encounter with a black June 6°C / 43°F 17°C / 63°F bear. For more information, read You Are In Black July 9°C / 48°F 20°C / 68°F Bear Country or consult with Parks Canada staff. August 10°C / 50°F 20°C / 68°F Lake Superior Conditions September 6°C / 43°F 15°C / 59°F Lake Superior is cold and unpredictable. Although October 1°C / 34°F 9°C / 48°F water near the shore may be warmer, the lake’s average temperature is only 4°C / 39°F year-round. Hypothermia can start within 5-10 minutes if you Sunrise and Sunset Times are not wearing a wetsuit or dry suit. Worried about having enough time? There’s plenty of sunshine to reach your day’s destination. From May - July, plan to be windbound one out of five days. August - November, plan to be wind- Date Sunrise Sunset bound one out of every three days. May 21 6:00 am 9:25 pm

Fog is common and can last for days. Be June 21 5:45 am 9:50 pm prepared to navigate using a compass. July 21 6:05 am 9:40 pm August 21 6:45 am 8:50pm Bugs Have we mentioned that August and September September 21 7:30 am 7:45 pm are great times to visit? October 21 8:15 am 6:45 pm Blackflies peak late May - June Mosquitoes peak mid June - July Pukaskwa Pits Horse and Deer Flies peak July - August Pukaskwa pits can be found in the cobble beaches Deer Ticks No known reports. If you along the coast. As local elder Proddy Goodchild do find a deer tick, please says, “No one knows for sure what the Pukaskwa bring it to park staff. Pits were used for. We only know that some are very old, and some are not so old.”

Help us protect these ancient structures. Do not move rocks or alter the pits.

10 • • • • When registering, pleasehavethefollowinginformationready: • • • • The dayofyourdeparture: Registration andOrientation Group Sizesare limitedto8peoplepercampsite. • • • • • When reserving, pleaseincludethefollowinginformation: email: [email protected] phone: 1-807-229-0801ext242 To reserve yourhikingorpaddlingtrip, Backcountry Reservations Planned itinerary Equipment descriptions(tents,canoes,kayaks) Emergency contactinformation Group membernames Pay feesandreceive check-outform Ask parkstaff forupdatedforest fire andbear reports Complete backcountryorientation Register withparkstaff # ofpeopleingroup Group leader’s contactinformation Preferred itinerary(#days,plannedcampsites) Type oftrip(hiking,paddling) Preferred tripdates 11

Fees in effect until March 31, 2013.

Use this Fee Estimator to help you budget for your trip. Enter the number of people, days, and nights. Be sure to take advantage of the savings offered through the selection of annual passes and family/ group entry rates. Can’t quite figure it out? Don’t worry, we’ll find you the best deal when you arrive. Please note, daily entry and camping fees both apply. Please note that Hattie Cove Campground is not in the backcountry, and that camping fees range from $15.90 - $29.40 /night per campsite.

Backcountry Total Total Camping Backcountry Entry and # People # Days Daily Entry Total Entry # Nights (person/night) Camping Camping EXAMPLE 1 x 4 x $5.80 = $23.20 3 x $9.80 = $29.40 = $52.60 Adult (ages 17 - 64) x $5.80 x $9.80 Senior (ages 65+) x $4.90 x $9.80 Youth (ages 6 -16) x $2.90 x $9.80 Family/Group (Up to seven people arriving together) x $14.70 x $9.80 Total

Annual Passes

Staying longer than 6 nights/7 days? Or, doing multiple trips? Consider these Annual Pass options:

Pukaskwa Annual Pass Pukaskwa Backcountry Pukaskwa Annual and Parks Canada (Flat rate daily entry Camping Pass Backcountry Camping Discovery Pass to Pukaskwa for (Flat rate backcountry Passes Combined (Unlimited daily entry to 12 months) camping for 12 months) (Best deal for Parks Canada places multiple trips.) for 12 months)

Adult $29.40 $68.70 $98.10 $67.70 Senior $24.50 $68.70 $93.20 $57.90 Youth $14.70 $68.70 $83.40 $33.30 Family/Group $73.60 n/a Varies. $136.40

12 © Parks Canada © Parks Canada Hattie Cove · Mud Bay · Bii to bii gong

67 @ ! Hattie Cove N Also known as Mud Bay, Bii to bii gong is the Anishinaabe name for ! Marathon !! ! Hattie Cove and means water between two rocks. This protected 17 ! ! ! ! cove features a road accessible 67-site campground, flush toilets, 627 ! hot showers, electrical campsites, free WIFI, interpretive programs, !

and more. It is the most convenient start and end point for Heron Bay ! backcountry visitors. ! Pic River First Nation

Bannock and tea? ! Share some bannock, tea, and stories with a local elder at the Anishinaabe Camp. Hattie Cove ! Playter Harbour ! Picture Rock Harbour Hot shower, anyone? Chigaamiwinigum Falls White River Mouth - North Before you head out for your post-trip hamburger/ice cream/beer, ! White River Mouth - South why not enjoy a hot shower in the comfort station? !

Lake Superior

How many tents fit? Willow River On tent pads: More tents than you own. In a squeeze: Penn Lake Park, White Lake Provincial Park, and Neys Provincial Park are nearby. Morrison Harbour 13Willow River 0 4 Kilometres Fish Harbour 0 4 Miles Cave Harbour What’s your story? Send us your best photos and stories to [email protected] for a chance to be featured in the next edition.

Picture Rock Harbour · Gaa bii tawopka

! Where the sturgeons are N ! Gaa bii tawopka is Anishinaabe for “where the sturgeons are.” Lake ! Marathon ! ! strugeon are the largest fish in the Great Lakes, and one of the 17 ! ! ! ! oldest species. 627 ! !

Astronauts see caribou here Heron Bay ! Or, astronaut Dr. Roberta Bondar saw a caribou here. Are you as ! lucky as an astronaut? Pic River First Nation

! Wait it out For generations, Picture Rock Harbour was a place to seek Hattie Cove ! Playter Harbour protection from Lake Superior’s rough waters. It is still a good place ! Picture Rock Harbour to wait for the lake to calm down - especially if you are planning Chigaamiwinigum Falls White River Mouth - North to paddle past Campbell Point where reflection waves can create ! White River Mouth - South choppy, confused waters. !

How many tents fit? Willow River On tent pads: Two 2-person tents at the south site. Lake Superior In a squeeze: Camp at the north site.

Morrison Harbour Willow River 14 0 4 Kilometres Fish Harbour 0 4 Miles Cave Harbour © Parks Canada © Parks Canada White River Mouth - North · Waabishkaa ziibi

2 1

! Fancy a portage? Pic River First Nation N

If paddling the turbulent waters where Lake Superior and the White ! River meet make you nervous, or you simply miss the feeling of ! carrying a boat on your head, this is the place for you. This campsite Hattie Cove Playter Harbour is located on a short portage over a peninsula separating the White ! Picture Rock Harbour River and Lake Superior. Chigaamiwinigum Falls White River Mouth - North ! White River Mouth - South Play on the rocks If scrambling on rocky outcrops is the way you like to spend your evenings, make sure you spend a night here. Willow River Lake Superior How many tents fit? On tent pads: Three 2-person tents Morrison Harbour In a squeeze: Camp at White River Mouth - South Fish Harbour Cave Harbour

Oiseau Bay

Nicols Cove

Fisherman’s Cove

0 4 Kilometres 15

0 4 Miles What’s your story? Send us your best photos and stories to [email protected] for a chance to be featured in the next edition.

White River Mouth - South· Waabishkaa ziibi

! Pic River First Nation The Ugliest Fish? N Lake Sturgeon may not be the prettiest fish in Lake Superior, but ! they are the biggest. Watch for radio telemetry monitoring equipment Hattie Cove ! near this site - it tracks the rare Lake sturgeon as they migrate up Playter Harbour ! the White River. Picture Rock Harbour Chigaamiwinigum Falls White River Mouth - North ! How many tents fit? White River Mouth - South On tent pads: Two 2-person tent. In a squeeze: Camp at White River Mouth - North. Willow River

Morrison Harbour Willow River Fish Harbour Cave Harbour Lake Superior

Oiseau Bay

Nicols Cove

Fisherman’s Cove 16 0 4 Kilometres

0 4 Miles Chigaamawinigum Falls · Chigaamiwinigum

! Pic River First Nation ! N “This hike wasn’t my idea. But it was so worth it.” N

! Heron Bay We’re not just saying that - a visitor did! Write your own story in the ! bridge logbook. Hattie Cove ! ! Pic River First Nation Playter Harbour

! ! Picture Rock Harbour First Portage from the Lake Chigaamiwinigum Falls White River Mouth - North Chigaamawinigum is the ‘first portage from the lake.’ You can ! Hattie Cove ! White River Mouth - South paddle upstream as far as Chigaamiwinigum, and then take the Playter Harbour portage to the suspension bridge. ! Picture Rock Harbour Chigaamiwinigum White River Mouth - North ! Willow River Help a HIker White River Mouth - South Falls Sites on the Coastal Hiking Trail are reserved for hikers. Help your ! White River landbound friends by camping at the site downstream from the !

Morrison Harbour bridge on river right. Willow River Willow River Fish Harbour Lake Superior Cave Harbour How many tents fit? Lake Superior On tent pads: Two 2-person tents. Morrison Harbour In a squeeze: Camp on the island in the middle of the river. Willow River Oiseau Bay Fish Harbour Cave Harbour Nicols Cove

Fisherman’s Cove Oiseau Bay 17 0 4 Kilometres 0 4 Kilometres

0 4 Miles 0 4 Miles Nicols Cove Fisherman’s Cove Willow River · Wedoopki ziibi

N Wedoopki ziibi ! Wedoopki ziibi means Willow River. Look for the willows along Pic River First Nation the riverbank as you hike to the suspension bridge on the Coastal !

Hiking Trail. Hattie Cove ! Playter Harbour ! Large group? Picture Rock Harbour Chigaamiwinigum Falls Willow River has plenty of landing and tent space for larger groups. White River Mouth - North ! White River Mouth - South Love your kayak? ! White River Kayak-friendly landings are easy on this sandy beach. ! Willow River !! Meet new friends The Willow River is a great spot to share a campfire with fellow Morrison Harbour hikers and paddlers. Willow River Fish Harbour How many tents fit? Cave Harbour On tent pads: Two or more at each site. Lake Superior In a squeeze: Camp on the beach. Oiseau Bay

Nicols Cove 18 Fisherman’s Cove 0 4 Kilometres

0 4 Miles

White Gravel River © Parks Canada © Parks Canada © Parks Canada Morrison Harbour · Miziinack onigiigan

Wood carving. 2 Miziinack onigiigan is the wood carving place. Pic River First Nation Big storm rolling in?

Protected by several islands, Morrison is a great place to take Hattie Cove ! N shelter from Superior’s storms. Playter Harbour ! Picture Rock Harbour Chigaamiwinigum Falls Mysteries need solving White River Mouth - North ! Can you solve the mystery behind Shot Watch Cove? A watch was White River Mouth - South ! found here - with a gunshot hole through it! White River ! The Tug Alberta Willow River Morrison Harbour is named for operator who fished these waters from the tug Alberta. Morrison Harbour Willow River Help a HIker Fish Harbour Sites on the Coastal Hiking Trail are reserved for hikers. Help your Cave Harbour hike-weary and landbound friends by camping on one of the

islands. Lake Superior Oiseau Bay

How many tents fit? Nicols Cove On tent pads: Multiple tents at both sites Fisherman’s Cove In a squeeze: Camp on the beach

White19 Gravel River 0 4 Kilometres White Gravel River 0 4 Miles North of White Spruce Harbour White Spruce Harbour Fish Harbour

! Stormstayed? White River Mouth - South N ! Protected by several islands, Fish Harbour gives shelter from White River Superior’s storms. Sometimes we hope to get windbound here. ! Willow River !! Stumped? Don’t be. These sites have lots of stumps for sitting around the fire. Morrison Harbour Willow River Want to know a secret? Fish Harbour Promise not to tell? This is one of our favourite campsites. Shh! Cave Harbour

Help a HIker Oiseau Bay Sites on the Coastal Hiking Trail are reserved for hikers. Help your hike-weary and landbound friends by camping on one of the islands. Nicols Cove Fisherman’s Cove

How many tents fit? Lake Superior On tent pads: Multiple tents at all sites, western site is the largest In a squeeze: Camp on the beach White Gravel River White Gravel River North of White Spruce Harbour White Spruce Harbour

20 Simons Harbour 0 4 Kilometres

0 4 Miles Hideaway Lake Cave Harbour · Gawii babka

! The Legend of Gawii babka as told by Proddy Goodchild Picture Rock Harbour Chigaamiwinigum Falls White River Mouth - North There was a hunter at this time. He was hunting amik (beaver). ! White River Mouth - South He came to this lake, Lake Superior. He did not set a trap. A ! White River

trap takes 3-5 days to catch a beaver. Anishnabe had other ! ways to catch beaver. So he went to the beaver dam, and N Willow River he started to break the dam to let the beaver out, and he went after the beaver. The beaver ran around the lake, and the anishnabe was right behind him. The beaver came to a Morrison Harbour dead stop when he tried to go underground. This is where Willow River the anishnabe caught up to the beaver, at Cave Harbour. The Fish Harbour lake they were running around was Lake Superior, and where Cave Harbour the beaver’s head went in made the cave in the rock, Cave Lake Superior Harbour! Oiseau Bay

Water Access Only Nicols Cove Please note that the cave is only accessible by water. Fisherman’s Cove

How many tents fit? Camp at the beach on the island. White Gravel River White Gravel River North of White Spruce Harbour White Spruce Harbour 21 0 4 Kilometres

0 4 Miles Simons Harbour Oiseau Bay · Wiso wikwedon

Naming Bay Willow River !! N Wiso wikwedon means Naming Bay. !

Morrison Harbour Hike an old riverbed Willow River In 1986, heavy rains broke a beaver dam on Oiseau Creek, causing Fish Harbour the river mouth to reroute. Now, the Coastal Hiking Trail follows the Cave Harbour old riverbed. Oiseau Bay Walk in the Goodchilds’ footsteps Many of you have met Collette Goodchild, a local elder and Nicols Cove Pukaskwa employee. These are her childhood stomping grounds. Fisherman’s Cove For generations, her family trapped, hunted, and carried mail between Heron Bay and Oiseau Bay. White Gravel River How many tents fit? White Gravel River On tent pads: Multiple tents at all sites North of White Spruce Harbour White Spruce Harbour In a squeeze: Camp on the beach Lake Superior Simons Harbour

Hideaway Lake

22 0 4 Kilometres North Swallow River

0 4 Miles

Trapper Harbour What’s your story? Send us your best photos and stories to [email protected] for a chance to be featured in the next edition.

Nicols Cove ·

I Don’t Give a Damn for Lake Superior Willow River !! N

Nicols Cove is named for the Nicols brothers who operated a fishery ! out of Port Coldwell. Adolph King worked as an engineer on their boat, the “Strathbelle,” and became known for bringing her to shore Morrison Harbour safely through some wild storms. As Adolph tells it: Willow River Fish Harbour Cave Harbour Yeah, that happened to me quite a few times and it got sort of to be an embarrassment to me, you know, to hear them telling the other fellow, you know: “When I got him back in the engine Oiseau Bay room ...” Like old Fred Gerow: “I got [Adolph] King back in that Nicols Cove engine room, I don’t give a damn for Lake Superior or anything Fisherman’s Cove she can throw at us.”

Lake Superior Hiker free White Gravel River We love hikers. But along the trail, they get a lot of the good sites. White Gravel River This one is beautiful - and only accessible by boat. North of White Spruce Harbour White Spruce Harbour

Simons Harbour

Hideaway Lake 23 0 4 Kilometres North Swallow River 0 4 Miles Fisherman’s Cove · Ganiimebinewan

Where the Suckers Are Willow River !! N Ganiimebinewan means where the suckers are. We’re not calling ! you a sucker for camping here, we’re talking about the sucker fish. Morrison Harbour Willow River Need to dry out your gear? Fisherman’s Cove has lots of rocks Fish Harbour for getting it dry - fast. Not that we know from experience... Cave Harbour

Longing for a swim? Lake Superior Oiseau Bay Try the northern cove - it’s far warmer than the southern one. Nicols Cove Help a HIker Fisherman’s Cove Sites on the Coastal Hiking Trail are reserved for hikers. Help your hike-weary and landbound friends by camping on one of the

islands. White Gravel River White Gravel River How many tents fit? North of White Spruce Harbour On tent pads: Four tents on south site, two tents on north site White Spruce Harbour In a squeeze: Paddle on. Simons Harbour

Hideaway Lake

24 0 4 Kilometres North Swallow River 0 4 Miles

Trapper Harbour © Parks Canada White Gravel River · Gaziinins dongang ziibi

Gaziinins dongang ziibi Fish Harbour N Wondering what it means? Five points if you guessed Gravel River. Cave Harbour

Fish stories Oiseau Bay If you don’t have a rod, just watch the river. You’ll likely spot the fish! Nicols Cove Larger group? Fisherman’s Cove White Gravel River has space for you.

Like storms? White Gravel River White Gravel River is a great place to watch storms. Just be sure to White Gravel River North of White Spruce Harbour take shelter and stay safe. White Spruce Harbour

Simons Harbour How many tents fit? On tent pads: Multiple tents at all sites Hideaway Lake In a squeeze: Camp on the beach

North Swallow River Lake Superior Trapper Harbour

Triangle Harbour 25 Cascade River 0 4 Kilometres 0 4 Miles Cascade Falls © Parks Canada © Parks Canada © Parks Canada

White Spruce Harbour · Migizi awatik goonsing

Migizi awatik goonsing 1 Migizi is the Anishinaabe word for Eagle. Migizi awatik goonsing means Small eagle log.

Weren’t too bad a shot afterall Cave Harbour N Hilda Cormier, whose family hunted and fished in White Spruce Harbour, told this story: Oiseau Bay I do remember just on the calm part of the lake, in the bay... Nicols Cove [Mrs. Waboos] and my mother, and me sitting in the middle, the two women out shooting ducks. I remember that. It was Fisherman’s Cove just the three of us (...) In the old days (they still do I guess) they put branches in the front of the canoe... to sneak up on the ducks. They think it’s just drift-wood or tree I guess the White Gravel River White Gravel River birds doen’t see the human behind. I do remember, I think it North of White Spruce Harbour was Mrs. Waboos that was in the back - steering the canoe - White Spruce Harbour

my mother up in front with the shotgun. (...) But Dad told me Simons Harbour after. He said, “Yes, your mom and Mrs. Waboos did lots of hunting. Kept us in food.” I guess they weren’t too bad a shot Hideaway Lake afterall.” North Swallow River How many tents fit? Lake Superior On tent pads: Two 2-person tents Trapper Harbour In a squeeze: Camp on the beach Triangle Harbour Cascade River 26 0 4 Kilometres Cascade Falls

0 4 Miles Otter Island What’s your story? Send us your best photos and stories to [email protected] for a chance to be featured in the next edition.

Simons Harbour · Gichi migizi awatikgoon

Gichi migizi awatikgoon Nicols Cove N At the opening of Simon’s Harbour is a place known as Gichi Fisherman’s Cove migizi awatikgoon, or Big eagle log. Just north of here is Migizi awatik goonsing, or Small eagle log.

White Gravel River Read like Art White Gravel River in the 1930s, Art Laroque trapped furs from Simons Harbour south North of White Spruce Harbour White Spruce Harbour to the Swallow River. Gordon Primeau, who used to bring him books, once said “He was a fanatic, book fanatic. And we’d come Simons Harbour

there to his camp int he summer and he’d be sitting on the rocking Hideaway Lake chair reading, and there’d be five of us standing there. When he finished the chapter, then he’d say ‘Hello.’” Swallow River North Swallow River

Trapper Harbour

Triangle Harbour Cascade River

Lake Superior Cascade Falls

Otter Island

27 0 4 Kilometres Deep Harbour 0 4 Miles © Parks Canada © Parks Canada © Parks Canada Hideaway Lake

N Lunch, anyone? Nicols Cove

It’s a beautiful spot to pull over for a snack. Fisherman’s Cove

Lots to explore

Coast, trail, inland lake - Hideaway Lake has it all. White Gravel River White Gravel River If you love your boat... North of White Spruce Harbour Paddle in, explore, then paddle on. This is a very rocky landing, White Spruce Harbour and there are better spots further along the coast. Simons Harbour Hideaway Lake How many tents fit? On tent pads: Two 2-person tents Swallow River In a squeeze: Another small tent pad near the rocky outcrop North Swallow River Lake Superior Trapper Harbour

Triangle Harbour Cascade River

Cascade Falls

Otter Island 28 0 4 Kilometres

0 4 Miles Deep Harbour © Parks Canada

North Swallow River · Giiwednong zhaashawinibiis wi ziibi

N Nicols Cove Giiwednong zhaashawinibiis wi ziibi N

Fisherman’s Cove Wondering if it means North Swallow River? You are correct. White Gravel River White Gravel River See it both ways North of White Spruce Harbour White Spruce Harbour One group paddles, one group hikes. Meet up, celebrate, and White Gravel River Simons Harbour White Gravel River switch here! Hikers paddle back, paddlers hike back. North of White Spruce Harbour Hideaway Lake White Spruce Harbour Help a HIker Swallow River Simons Harbour Sites on the Coastal Hiking Trail are reserved for hikers. If hike- North Swallow River weary and landbound friends arrive on site, make room and share Hideaway Lake some good food and stories around a fire. Trapper Harbour Swallow River North Swallow River How many tents fit? Triangle Harbour Lake Superior Cascade River On tent pads: Two 2-person tents Trapper Harbour In a squeeze: Camp on the beach Cascade Falls

Triangle Harbour Otter Island Cascade River Lake Superior

Cascade Falls Deep Harbour

Otter Island

0 4 Kilometres 29 0 4 Kilometres Bonamie Cove 0 4 Miles 0 4 Miles Deep Harbour What’s your story? Send us your best photos and stories to [email protected] for a chance to be featured in the next edition.

Trapper Harbour · Nandawenjige nini wiikwed

North of White Spruce Harbour White Spruce Harbour Nandawenjige nini wiikwed N No surprises here. It means Trapper Harbour. Simons Harbour

Hideaway Lake Trapping on the Coast. Napoleon Michano was the assistant lighthouse keeper at Otter Swallow River Island for many years. He also trapped furs along the coast. North Swallow River

Trapper Harbour

Triangle Harbour Cascade River

Cascade Falls

Otter Island

Deep Harbour

Lake Superior

Bonamie Cove Imogene Cove

Imogene Point 30 Pukaskwa River 0 4 Kilometres

0 4 Miles What’s your story? Send us your best photos and stories to [email protected] for a chance to be featured in the next edition.

Triangle Harbour ·

1 1

North of White Spruce Harbour White Spruce Harbour N Simons Harbour

Hideaway Lake

Swallow River North Swallow River

Trapper Harbour

Triangle Harbour Cascade River

Cascade Falls

Otter Island

Deep Harbour

Lake Superior Bonamie Cove Imogene Cove

Imogene Point Pukaskwa River

0 4 Kilometres 31

0 4 Miles Cascade Falls · Ga waa saji waana

Iconic waterfalls Simons Harbour N Ga waa saji waana is White water falls. This iconic waterfall is a destination for most paddlers between Hattie Cove and Hideaway Lake

Michipicoten. Swallow River North Swallow River Old Cabin Be sure to explore the area and see the old trapper’s cabin near Trapper Harbour the falls. Enjoy the cabin, but please leave it to tell its story to Triangle Harbour others. Cascade River Cascade Falls

Otter Island

Deep Harbour

Bonamie Cove Lake Superior Imogene Cove

Imogene Point Pukaskwa River 32 0 4 Kilometres

0 4 Miles Otter Island · Nigi shtgwaaning minis

White Gravel River

You’re halfway there North of White Spruce Harbour N Nigi shtgwaaning minis is Anishinaabe for Otter head island. Nigi White Spruce Harbour shtgwaaning, or Otter head, can be found in Otter Cove and marks Simons Harbour the halfway point for paddlers going between Thunder Bay and Sault Hideaway Lake Ste. Marie. As you explore the cove, see if you can find the figure of an otter’s head. Swallow River North Swallow River No camping in May-June or September-October Trapper Harbour To protect Pukaskwa’s small caribou population, no camping is permitted on Otter Island during calving season in May and June, or Triangle Harbour during the rut in September and October. Cascade River Cascade Falls Caribou are scared of dogs Otter Island We love dogs, but Otter Island is some of the best caribou habitat around. To ensure it stays a safe place for caribou, dogs must be leashed on the island. Deep Harbour

Where to camp? Lake Superior Bonamie Cove Camp near the lighthouses. Imogene Cove Imogene Point 33 Pukaskwa River 0 4 Kilometres Pukaskwa River

0 4 Miles What’s your story? Send us your best photos and stories to [email protected] for a chance to be featured in the next edition.

Deep Harbour ·

North of White Spruce Harbour Rocky landing White Spruce Harbour N

If you love your kayak, find a campsite with a nicer landing. Deep Simons Harbour Harbour features a steep, cobbly beach landing that won’t be kind to your boat. Hideaway Lake

Swallow River Peregrine Falcons North Swallow River Keep an eye to the sky as you paddle this area. Peregrine falcons nest on nearby steep cliffs, and are frequently sighted here. Trapper Harbour

Triangle Harbour Cascade River

Cascade Falls

Otter Island

Deep Harbour

Bonamie Cove Lake Superior Imogene Cove

Imogene Point Pukaskwa River 34 Pukaskwa River 0 4 Kilometres

0 4 Miles What’s your story? Send us your best photos and stories to [email protected] for a chance to be featured in the next edition.

Bonamie Cove ·

1 2

N Bonne amie? Simons Harbour Windbound by the reflection waves off of Pointe la Canadienne? Make good friends with Bonamie Cove. Hideaway Lake

Swallow River Make them envy you North Swallow River Pointe la Canadienne is just a short paddle and the place to take pictures that will make your friends green with envy. On a calm day, Trapper Harbour take the time to explore below dramatic cliffs and crevices. Triangle Harbour Cascade River

How many tents fit? Cascade Falls On tent pads: Two 2-person tents on each site. In a squeeze: Camp on the beach. Otter Island

Deep Harbour

Lake Superior Bonamie Cove Imogene Cove

Imogene Point Pukaskwa River Pukaskwa River 35 0 4 Kilometres

0 4 Miles Imogene Cove · Pukaskwa Depot

North of White Spruce Harbour The campsite is located north of the creek and the site of White Spruce Harbour N Pukaskwa Depot. Camping is not permitted at the former Simons Harbour town site. Hideaway Lake

Happiest Time of Their Lives Swallow River Until the 1930s, Imogene Cove was home to Pukaskwa Depot, North Swallow River a logging community of over 300 people. Lee Fletcher summed his feelings about living there by saying, “Although having few, if Trapper Harbour any, of the amenities of civilization, those who lived and worked at Triangle Harbour Puckasaw looked back to that period with deep nostalgia. Many of Cascade River

the old timers I meet who worked there tell me it was the happiest Cascade Falls time of their lives.” Otter Island Enjoy the artifacts at the site, but please leave them to tell the Depot’s story to others. Deep Harbour

How many tents fit? Bonamie Cove On tent pads: Two 2-person tents Lake Superior In a squeeze: Camp on the beach Imogene Cove Imogene Point Pukaskwa River 36 Pukaskwa River

0 4 Kilometres

0 4 Miles Pukaskwa River · Bii-skikaag saateg ziibi

North of White Spruce Harbour

White Spruce Harbour N Curvy Run Dry River Simons Harbour N Simons Harbour The Pukaskwa River is one of the best whitewater rivers in Ontario. Hideaway Lake Just be sure to paddle it in spring before it becomes as it’s Hideaway Lake described in Anishinaabe, Bii-skikaag saateg ziibi, or Curvy run dry Swallow River North Swallow River Swallow River river. North Swallow River Orange Sateen Bikini Underwear Trapper Harbour Trapper Harbour By this point on the trip, you might discover new things about your Triangle Harbour paddling partner. In 1957, John Calkins paddled the Pukaskwa Cascade River Triangle Harbour Cascade River River with his guide. Here’s what he discovered: Cascade Falls

Cascade Falls You know, to get a tin canoe going through the woods, eh... isn’t all Otter Island Otter Island that much of a dream... so that’s where [he] ripped his pants all up and we discovered that his underwear was a pair of sateen orange Deep Harbour Deep Harbour or scarlet nylon bathing suit, bikini like almost. [Laughs].

How many tents fit? Bonamie Cove Bonamie Cove There is plenty of room for tents on both sides of the river. Imogene Cove Lake Superior Lake Superior Imogene Cove Imogene Point Pukaskwa River Pukaskwa River Imogene Point Pukaskwa River Pukaskwa River 37

0 4 Kilometres 0 4 Kilometres

0 4 Miles 0 4 Miles Leave No Trace

Plan Ahead and Prepare Leave What You Find • Know the regulations and special concerns • Preserve the past: examine, but do not for the area you’ll visit. touch, cultural or historic structures and • Prepare for extreme weather, hazards, and artifacts. emergencies. • Leave rocks, plants and other natural objects • Schedule your trip to avoid times of high use. as you find them. • Visit in small groups. Split larger parties into • Do not build structures, furniture, or dig groups of 4-6. trenches. • Use a map and compass to eliminate the use of marking paint, rock cairns or flagging. Minimize Campfire Impacts • Campfires can cause lasting impacts to the Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces backcountry. Use a lightweight stove for • Durable surfaces include established trails cooking and enjoy a candle lantern for light. and campsites, rock, gravel, or dry grasses. • Where fires are permitted, use established • Protect riparian areas by camping at least 70 fire rings, fire pans, or mound fires. meters from lakes and streams. • Keep fires small. Only use sticks from the • Good campsites are found, not made. ground that can be broken by hand. Altering a site is not necessary. • Burn all wood and coals to ash, put out campfires completely, then scatter cool In popular areas: ashes. • Concentrate use on existing trails and campsites. Respect Wildlife • Walk single file in the middle of the trail, even • Observe wildlife from a distance. Do not when wet or muddy. follow or approach them. • Keep campsites small. Focus activity in areas • Never feed animals. Feeding wildlife where vegetation is absent. damages their health, alters natural behaviours, and exposes them to predators In pristine areas: and other dangers. • Disperse use to prevent the creation of • Protect wildlife and your food by storing campsites and trails. rations and trash securely. • Avoid places where impacts are just • Control pets at all times, or leave them at beginning. home. • Avoid wildlife during sensitive times: mating, Dispose of Waste Properly nesting, raising young, or winter. • Pack it in, pack it out. Pack out all trash, leftover food, and litter. Be Considerate of Others • Use pit privies where available. When • Respect other visitors and protect the quality unavailable, deposit solid human waste in of their experience. catholes dug 15 to 20 cm deep at least 70 • Be courteous. Yield to other users on the m from water, camp, and trails. Cover and trail. disguise the cathole when finished. • Take breaks and camp away from trails and • Pack out toilet paper and hygiene products. other visitors. • To wash yourself or your dishes, carry water • Let nature’s sounds prevail. Avoid loud voices 70 meters away from streams or lakes and and noises use small amounts of biodegradable soap. Scatter strained dishwater. www.leavenotrace.ca 38 Gear Checklist

Safety Gear Personal Gear  satellite phone, EPIRB or SPOT device  water bottle  headlamp and/or flashlight  bowl and spork  mirror  mug  matches / fire starting kit  knife  bear deterrent  toothbrush and toothpaste  weather radio  towel  first aid kit  daypack  extra food  sunscreen / sunglasses  sleeping bag Navigation  wallet / cash  maps and waterproof case  contact phone numbers  watch  trip plan  compass  camera  binoculars  pencils Personal Clothing  waterproof notebook/logbook  warm hat  Global Positioning System (GPS)  sun hat  rain gear with hood Repair Kit  shorts: quick dry  duct tape  pants: wool or fleece  spare batteries and bulbs  jacket: fleece  silicon sealant  sweater: light wool  heavy duty needle and thread  shirt / t-shirt  ripstop nylon repair kit  long underwear: wool or polypropylene  stove repair kit  gloves  camp shoes Camp Gear  swimsuit  tarp  bug hat, jacket, and / or repellent  tent  stove and fuel For Paddlers  cooking pot  paddle and spare paddle  stuff sacks  self-rescue aids  camp saw  paddling gloves  15 m rope / pulley system for hanging food  paddling top  trowel  whistle / signalling device  toilet paper  15 m bouyant throw rope  food  bailer  lots of hot drinks (trust us)  spray skirt  kayak or canoe  kneeling pads

39 Coastal Paddling Route Distance Chart

Pukaskwa National Park Coastal Paddling Route to Michipicoten River Distances (kms) are between points hugging the shoreline. Italicized locations are outside of the park. Hattie Cove 67 sites White River 2 sites Willow River 5 sites Cave Harbour 1 site Oiseau Bay 3 sites White Gravel River 3 sites Simons Harbour 1 site North Swallow River 1 site Harbour Triangle 1 site Cascade Falls 1 site Otter Island 1 site Otter Head Bonamie Cove 2 sites Pukaskwa River 2 sites Crane Island Pipe River Floating Heart River Point Isacor Bay Tamarack False Dog Harbour Mountain Ash River Minnkona Point Michipicoten River

Hattie Cove 11 17 29 42 53 60 70 81 87 99 109 122 133 145 155 167 179 186 194 202 212 226

White River 11 6 18 31 42 49 59 70 76 88 98 111 122 134 144 156 168 175 184 191 201 215

Willow River 17 6 12 25 36 43 53 64 70 82 92 105 116 128 138 150 162 169 178 185 195 209

Cave Harbour 29 18 12 13 24 31 41 52 58 70 80 93 104 116 126 148 160 167 176 183 193 207

Oiseau Bay 42 31 25 13 11 18 28 39 45 57 67 80 91 103 113 125 137 144 153 160 170 184

White Gravel River 53 42 36 24 11 7 17 28 34 46 56 69 80 92 102 114 126 133 142 149 159 173

Simons Harbour 60 49 43 31 18 7 10 21 27 39 49 62 73 85 95 107 119 126 135 142 152 166

North Swallow River 70 59 53 41 28 17 10 11 17 29 39 27 38 50 60 72 84 92 101 108 118 132

Triangle Harbour 81 70 64 52 39 28 21 11 6 18 28 41 52 64 74 86 98 105 114 121 131 145

Cascade Falls 87 76 70 58 45 34 27 17 6 12 22 35 46 58 68 80 92 99 108 115 125 139

Otter Head 99 88 82 70 57 46 39 29 18 12 10 23 34 46 56 68 80 87 96 103 113 127

Deep Harbour 109 98 92 80 67 56 49 39 28 22 10 13 24 36 46 58 70 77 86 93 103 117

Bonamie Cove 122 111 105 93 80 69 62 27 41 35 23 13 11 23 33 45 57 64 73 80 90 104

Pukaskwa River 133 122 116 104 91 80 73 38 52 46 34 24 11 12 22 34 46 53 62 69 79 93

Crane Island 145 134 128 116 103 92 85 50 64 58 46 36 23 12 10 22 34 41 50 57 67 81

Pipe River 155 144 138 126 113 102 95 60 74 68 56 46 33 22 10 12 24 31 40 47 57 71

Floating Heart River 167 156 150 148 125 114 107 72 86 80 68 58 45 34 22 12 12 19 28 35 45 59

Point Isacor 179 168 162 160 137 126 119 84 98 92 80 70 57 46 34 24 12 7 16 23 33 47

Tamarack Bay 186 175 169 167 144 133 126 92 105 99 87 77 64 53 41 31 19 7 9 16 26 40

False Dog Harbour 195 184 178 176 153 142 135 101 114 108 96 86 73 62 50 40 28 16 9 7 17 31

Mountain Ash River 202 191 185 183 160 149 142 108 121 115 103 93 80 69 57 47 35 23 16 7 10 24

Minnekona Point 212 201 195 193 170 159 152 118 131 125 113 103 90 79 67 57 45 33 26 17 10 14

Michipicoten River 226 215 209 207 184 173 166 132 145 139 127 117 104 93 81 71 59 47 40 31 24 14 40 Coastal Paddling Route Distance Chart