Diving with Seals Text and photos by Lawson Wood The are a small group of some 33 rocks and islets Farne Islands (depending on the state of the which has a rise and fall of over 6m or 20ft) located off the north coast of . At full tide, only 23 larger rocks and islands are visible, but all of those are eye catching. The entire group are a National Trust protected area and have numerous wildlife preserves, notably for their seabirds and seals.

There are over 50 historic ship- wrecks found directly around these islands, however, it is for the encounters with grey seals that divers and underwater photographers keep returning to this picturesque group of islands just 3km offshore. There are numerous sightsee- ing boats and dive boats that run regular trips to the islands, but Paul Walker of Farne Discovery (www.farneisland- divers.co.uk) I personally feel, has the most experience and empathy for the seals and the most knowledge about the hid- den shoals, wrecks, reefs and currents, which can play havoc for inexperienced divers and boat skippers.

Playful grey seals in the waters off the Farne Islands, Northumberland, England

40 X-RAY MAG : 54 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Grey seals (left) resting on rocks, Holy Island; Aerial view (right) of travel the Farne islands Farne Islands . St. followed in his Holy foot- steps and settled on the islands in 676AD where he built a ‘cell’ for him- self, a well for fresh water and rooms or ‘hospitium’ for other visiting monks. In ancient legend, St.Cuthbert drove out all the evil demons and spirits from the inner islands, yet their strange wails and screams could still be heard on the far- thest rocks and were thought to be the spirits of drowned sailors; now it is more generally accept- ed as the sounds from the huge colony of grey seals. St.Cuthbert was also the first person to official- ly protect wild birds and

Geologically, the islands are back in the 16th century. part of what is known as The Most people know of Great Whin Sill, a 30m (100ft) thick the Farne Islands from seam of diamond hard dolor- the outstanding hero- ite that was formed in recent ism of geological time. Its aspect is of and her father William columnar shape cut with numer- Darling, one of the light- ous fissures, the most obvious house keepers of the being ‘The ’ off the southern Longstone . laid down the rules for shipwrecks of course! The monks edge of Farne Island, which is On 7 September 1838, the safety of the eider also farmed, raised cattle, fished, over 20m (66ft) high. Staple Island Grace Darling and her duck population, which collected seabirds’ eggs, and has three huge individual stacks father rowed out to the was so vital for the col- for their fires and kept one called The Pinnacles. Most of the shipwrecked lection of eiderdown, island reserved for the burial of larger islands are now topped and managed to rescue still known worldwide for lost sailors who had drowned and with peat and are very fertile with nine seamen in absolutely its thermal properties. washed up on the islands’ shores. the droppings of the seabirds atrocious sea conditions. Seals, or ‘celys’ as The name Farne is a deriva- mixed with seaweeds. This act of selfless heroism they were first known, tive of the ancient Celtic name Built in 1811 and 1826, there are attracted massive media were actively hunted by Ferann, which roughly translates two on the islands— attention and made the monks as a high pro- as land. I imagine that this group one on Farne Island and the Grace Darling a national tein food source as well of large rocks was the first point other out on the Longstone. Now heroine. as providing oil for their of contact that raiders or settlers fully automated, the very early The Farne Islands were lamps. Seals also pro- from Europe first saw of this beau- lighthouses first burned their rudi- first inhabited by St.Aiden vided the monks with a tiful low lying coastline. Individual mentary light to warn sailors of in 635AD, before he very profitable income— names to the rocks date back the treacherous reefs and shoals became the Bishop of that and the salvage of to the sixth and seventh cen- Massive colony of grey seals on , Holy Island

41 X-RAY MAG : 54 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO There are massive col- onies of sea birds such as travel puffins (left) on some of the islands; Farne Islands from above (right); Loca- tion of Farne Islands on map of British Isles and glo- bal map (below) most cod species, salmon and sea trout, flatfish, herring and sand- eels. Being opportunistic feeders, when nasa fish are in short sup- ply, they will eat almost anything, including crab and lobster, octo- pus and squid. There are huge aggregations of sandeels to be found around the Farne Islands in the spring months, and this mas- wikimedia commons sive natural resource is also very important to the colonies of puffins or cows are much smaller, typi- and other seabirds found on the cally 1.6 to 2.0m (5.2 to 6.6ft) long ancient rookeries on the islands. and 100 to 190kg (220 to 420lb) in weight. The males have a straight turies and have remained Sheltered locations and snug lit- of seals migrating to other parts of oerus grypus, meaning “hooked- head profile—a classic arched almost unchanged to this day tle bays are also favoured by the the United Kingdom. Tagged indi- nosed sea pig”) is the most com- ‘Roman’ nose with large wide- with names such as Swedman, seals, and with a resident popula- viduals from have been mon seal found around British set nostrils—and few spots on the Wamses, Knavestone, Wedums, tion of over 4,000 grey seals, there found as far away as the Norfolk coastal waters—in fact, much body, which is generally darker Crumstone, Glororum Shad, Brada are plenty of opportunities for coast of England and the Baltic more common than the common than the females. They often and Callers, to name but a few of everyone to experience the thrill Sea. One particular individual seal (Phoca vitulina). have many scars around their these evocative sites. Some are of a lifetime. was recorded as moving from the The is a true seal—the necks earned from either protect- more known for the massive colo- On nearby Holy Island or Moral Firth in northern Scotland to only one classified in the genus ing their harem or gaining superi- nies of , eider ducks, gulls Lindisfarne, there are two more the Farne Islands, back up north Halichoerus—and is the larg- ority in a group. The females are and puffins, whilst others have massive colonies containing to the Faroe Islands on the way est carnivore recorded in British generally a silver grey colour with a shifting population of itinerant another 5,000 grey seals. Over to Iceland and southwest again waters. It is found on both sides light brown patches. grey seals. 1,600 seal pups were born in the to before the transmitter’s of the Atlantic and is also known Diving down as deep as 60m These seal colonies are entirely 2012 season. While the mortal- battery failed! as the Atlantic gray seal or horse- (200ft), seals require an estimated dependent on the weather and ity rate in the first year alone is head seal. 5kg (11lb) of food each day, but height of the tide, as they like to very high at over 50 percent, the The grey seal It is one of the largest seals with the females never feed during the bask in the sun on flat rocky out- number still puts a tremendous Known as phoque gris by the bulls reaching 2.5 to 3.3m (8.2 to breeding season, until their young crops that have direct access to strain on the population’s food French and foca gris by the 11ft) long and weighing 170 to pups have weaned. They feed deep water, directly off the shore. source, resulting in large numbers Spanish, the grey seal (Halich- 400kg (370 to 880lb). The females on a wide variety of fish including Puffin returns with fish from the sea

42 X-RAY MAG : 54 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO THIS PAGE: Diving with grey seals in the waters travel of the Farne Islands Farne Islands Islands. Other large colonies on the Normally, females give birth to only east coast include the Isle of May in the one pup and are known to abort addi- Forth estuary of Scotland and Donna tional fetuses. However, it was recorded Nook in Lincolnshire. on the Farne Islands in November 2012 The pups are covered in long, soft, that twins were born for the first time silky cream hair, and although they are known to scientists. quite small when first born, they rapidly As grey seals are at the top of the put on weight, suckling their mothers food chain in British waters, they are five to six times each day for the first also susceptible to the accumulation three weeks. This fat rich milk ensures of pollutants and heavy metals such the rapid growth rate of the pups, and as PCB’s (polychlorinated biphenyls). the mother will lose a quarter of her Females feeding on polluted fish may body weight during this period. Within a fail to breed resulting in hindering the month, the pups have tripled or quad- recovery of some populations that rupled their weight, have replaced their have been reduced by disease. sleek hair with the dense, waterproof, adult seal skin and are abandoned by their mothers to fend for them- selves. The females soon become fertile after wean- ing the pups and may mate with a number of different bulls. Pups are born from September to Pregnancy lasts November from Canada down as far as the for 11.5 months, U.S. state of Virginia and from November with the fertilised through February in the western Atlantic. embryo remaining It is widely understood that the rising seal unattached for the populations in the Cape Cod area of the first 3.5 months. This U.S. state of Massachusetts were the reason delayed implan- that great white sharks started to be seen so tation is common frequently. in a number of Protected under the Conservation of Seals aquatic species, Act of 1970, no hunting is allowed of the resulting in seal seals, but the rising numbers are causing pups all being born increasing alarm to inshore fishermen who around the same are complaining about dwindling fish stocks time each year. and are urging governments to take a fresh Seals can grow stance on the numbers and allow for cull- quite old, with ing to take place. Seals are allowed to be records held for hunted legally in Sweden and Finland. males over 35 years and females, less Diving with the seals The largest colonies in the eastern Atlantic so, at 25 years. As usual, there are Paul Walker of Farne Discovery has are found in North Rhona off the Hebrides in always exceptions to every rule, with an empathy with the seals and great Scotland, and approximately 12 percent of one old female in the Shetland Islands knowledge of their habits, habitats and the world’s population is found in the Farne reaching 46 years of age! movements. He is able to find the best

43 X-RAY MAG : 54 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO THIS PAGE: Scenes from diving with grey seals of the Farne Islands; Numerous Farne Islands sightseeing boats and dive travel boats (below) run regular trips to the islands

fins, or even try and pull your dive hood off! As soon as you turn around to con- front your attacker, it scoots off or just stays in mid-water acting all innocent. Turning around to photo- graph your first subject, you discover that it has disap- peared in a cloud of bub-

est hunters in the coastal waters. Conservation status The grey seal is classified as Least Concern (LC) on the IUCN Red List. They are protected in Europe under Annex II and V of the EC Habitats Directive and Appendix III of the Bern Convention. In Britain, the grey seal is protected under the Conservation of Seals Act 1970 (closed season from September 1 until December 31) and listed under Schedule 3 of the Conservation Regulations (1994). In Scotland, it is still legal— within reason—to shoot seals that are damaging fish nets as long as sheltered conditions for great you even get in the water. it is outside the closed (breeding) underwater wild animal inter- However, once in the water season, although there is provision actions with these massive sea and approaching the first seals in the Act to completely protect mammals. Depending on the ris- on the surface, they are quite them. ■ ing and falling tide as well as cur- skittish and will quickly disappear rent conditions, Walker will lead a beneath the waves and vanish A founding member of the Marine small group of divers from his Rib into the kelp covered canyons. Conservation Society, Lawson Farne Discovery to the best loca- Swimming slowly, it pays just to Wood has authored and co- tions for two dives. stay still mid-water or crouch on authored over 45 books mainly Seals are everywhere. There are the seabed and wait for the seals’ on the underwater world. He is often literally hundreds of seals in curiosity to overtake them. They the founder of the first Marine the water, all of them looking at just cannot help themselves and Reserve at St. Abbs and is the you on the bright orange boat soon come right up to you and first person to be a Fellow of the (have you ever had that feeling seemingly pose for the camera. bed or amidst the shallow kelp. bles, only to have your attacker ence just as much as the seals. Royal Photographic Society and of being watched? Well, multiply As seals can slow their heart- This is just a ruse to ambush you! have another fun go from behind These encounters are not to be the British Institute of Professional that a hundredfold). The younger beat down whilst underwater, Whilst you are ‘sneaking’ up to at your expense. They clearly missed, and the Farne Islands Photographers solely for underwa- yearlings and sub-adults are the they can stay submerged for photograph the resting seal, have enormous fun doing this, are one of the best and safest ter photography. most curious, often coming right around 15 minutes and often another seal has circled behind and it gets quite infectious, with locations for in-water wild animal up to the side of the boat before appear to be asleep on the sea- you and may start to tug at your the divers enjoying the experi- encounters with one of the sleek-

44 X-RAY MAG : 54 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO