PROMOTIONAL FEATURE PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Cool August nights proved crucial to successful dry white 2019

f some 2.64 million the regional syndicate for AOC Bordeaux with mid palate density and a satisfying finish. hectolitres of wine produced and Bordeaux Supérieur – a newly minted fine The juicy mid palate is not without complexity under the Bordeaux and dry white AOC Bordeaux made with over 50% and it conjures a dish of seared scallops in a Bordeaux Supérieur AOC Sémillon called Le Loup de La Loubière white wine and butter sauce, or a roasted appellations, just over 10% exuded balance in its expression of citrus, free range chicken with lemon. One of the was dry white in 2019. It is sometimes the candied lemon, white stone fruit and sage. top whites assessed for this article. Bravo! O case that a fine year for reds is not as good for Crafted under the consultancy of Jean dry whites – and vice versa. However, 2019, Claude Berrouet, for many years the director Chateau Des Antonins, which looks to be outstanding for reds, is also of Pétrus in Pomerol, the wine’s finesse is AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 90 quite good for dry white Bordeaux. matched by inventive packaging to sell in Under £10 Berry Bros & Rudd Certainly a solar vintage similar to 2018, the challenging markets. It bore no mention of 80% , 20% Sémillon. For the 2019 vintage however benefited more from the word “Bordeaux” on the front label: the price, a sure thing. The wine has a denser nature cooler nights in August, leaving the impression white label with a wolf (loup, in French) than some others here as the 20% Sémillon of better balance as compared to 2018. evokes non-traditional appeal, says co-owner lends an almost apricot yoghurt feel, although As long time vintage observer Gavin Caroline Teycheney, for people who do not the citrus of the Sauvignon Blanc balances Quinney noted, the dry whites “show great know “Bordeaux white”. Like Teycheney, the wine very nicely. I like the rich get vibrant promise”, which, based on this tasting, I think other producers compete with varietal white palate, with a finish marked by juicy ripe pear is fulfilled. While the lack the laser like wine in the £5 to £15 price range with what and honey. Château des Antonins takes root focus of a vintage like 2014, 2019 has acidity novel packaging approaches: “A needed on the left bank of the Garonne, at the gates of to balance the richness. And the best wines strategy” among others to better meet such and . The vineyard includes reflect excellent viticulture and vat room work challenges, says Florian Reyne, general five hectares of 80% Sauvignon Blanc 20% to maintain freshness, about which you can manager of Planète Bordeaux. Sémillon vines on sandy loam soil. It is eco- read in more detail in the ensuing tasting notes. friendly, and the entire estate obtained High The owner of the famous Domaine de Environmental Value Level 3 (HVE3) certification Chevalier, Olivier Bernard, also sells Bordeaux BEST BUYS since the 2018 harvest. Another added plus: AOC whites, and over a recent tasting, he Bordeaux Blanc 2019 the estate also proposes bed and breakfast remarked how the whites have more “tension” Château Bel Air Perponcher, within the Antonins Abbey. 2020-2023 in 2019 when compared to 2018: “Too much AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 90 heat kills the whites, so thank goodness, we £10-15 The Wine Society Château La Rame, had a normal month of August with cool nights.” 70% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Sémillon. Just as AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 90 Indeed, over lunch at Planète Bordeaux – this estate succeeds with fine reds, the white www.chateaularame.com/ wine is oh so worthy of your time. The price is 85% Sauvignon Blanc, 15% Sémillon. right and what you have is a balanced and Thoroughly bracing white wine, and even fresh wine - aromas and flavours of fresh cut though the word “Rame” means paddle, this grass, sweet herb, orange clementine, lime - wine is certainly not close to water. Fresh and

Bordeaux and Bordeaux superieur advertorial.indd 90 17/09/2020 09:44 PROMOTIONAL FEATURE PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

brisk, and quite a feat coming from a solar this is a superb dry white, that combines of passion fruit all nicely integrating the 25% vintage like 2019. The for this cuvée subtlety and richness. The sprightly nature of new oak used for aging. Probably even better come from a four hectare hillside parcel of Sauvignon Blanc is present as expected but in a vintage more ideal for whites, such as clay and limestone soil with a full southern there is suave aspect to the wine that 2014, this 2019 however “punches above its exposure that overlooks the Garonne River. transcends the varietal. The wine is made from weight”. Almost substantial enough for lobster The vines have an average age of nearly 25 seven hectares of gravely slopes planted with and butter; but an easy match for seafood as years. After a manual harvest, the grapes are Sauvignon Blanc vines specially dedicated to well as deli meats and goat cheeses. The fermented in temperature-controlled vats its production. Vinified in 80hl wooden vats property has 12 hectares of vines on ideally and left on the fine lees for six months prior specially designed to allow a batonnage on exposed clay-limestone soils. The vineyard to bottling. You can enjoy on its own or with the lees, which gives it a remarkable balance has been certified organic since 2011. shrimp or cod filet. 2020-2022 between freshness and velvet. 2020- 2026 Chateau La Verriere, Château Thieuley, Château De L’Aubrade, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 89 AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 90 AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 89 £10-£15 Jascot Under £10 The Wine Society, Charles Taylors Wines £10-£15 www.vignobles-lobre.com 100% Sauvignon Blanc. A fine Sauvignon 45% Sauvignon Blanc, 15% Sauvignon Gris, 70% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Muscadelle, 10% Blanc that is not varietal in character, as the 40% Sémillon. Grand success for 2019, this Sémillon. Very pronounced aromatically and overall impression combines white pepper, well established estate has once again proven quite floral with notes of magnolia especially. sweet herbs, ripe white apricots and grapefruit. its mettle. Pale lemon hue and an expressive The palate then conveys fine ripe lemon and It has earned international plaudits for good nose of lilac, passion fruit and lime. Sure, the grapefruit, as the Sauvignon Blanc takes reason: Like many of the most successful palate is round and rich, but the citrus has charge. Mid palate density comes thanks to wines assessed for this article, Château La freshness and lift to the wine. Very well the Sémillon. Quite a nice white! Can stand Verrière takes careful attention to the balanced. Long finish : a wine that “punches up to fish or poultry but why not try with a winemaking with a bit of skin maceration that above its weight” and thus offers a fine price/ bacon and cheese quiche? lends more fruitiness and volume, gentle and quality ratio. Can go toe to toe with roast turkey. progressive pressing with a pneumatic press. Château Du Carpia, The fermentation is carried out in vats at a Château Tour De Mirambeau, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 89 temperature between 18 and 20°C. The wine AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 90 www.lecarpia.com obtained is then aged on fine lees a few months £10-£15 Ratcliffe and Brown 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Subtle and elegant before the blends prior to bottling. Ideal for 75% Sauvignon Blanc, 25% Sémillon. Another on the nose. Not at all “varietal” and rather grilled sea bass with olive oil and lemon. top wine among the whites, the Tour de refined. With acacia, white flower, herb and Mirambeau is the flagship of the Despagne citrus. Aged in barrels with lees stirring. Château Lamothe-Vincent Heritage, family, which also crafts the excellent Château Certified organic since 2009. And I suppose AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 89 Bel Air Perponcher. This one exudes ripe it is no surprise that this wine is so successful, £10-£15 Terry Herbert juicy pear and mango notes, echoed on the owned by Xavier Planty, who currently directs 55% Sauvignon Gris, 45% Sauvignon Blanc. dense palate, which remains fresh despite Château Guiraud 1er Grand Cru Classé in Clearly ripe fruit, and the lovely maritime sea the heat of the vintage. One of the most 1855 in Sauternes for 30 years. 2020-2023 breeze saltiness is a pleasure! Harvesting at vivacious among the whites assessed for this night and freshness-preserving vinification were article and it would be a perfect match to a Château Jean Faux, important to bring about one of the better wide variety of dishes; from fetticini alfredo AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 89 examples of white Bordeaux in 2019. No doubt to grilled sea bass, to a quiche lorraine. £15 Jascot the cooler clayey-siliceous rocky limestone 80% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Sémillon. A classy helped, but let us give proper accolades to the Sec De Rayne Vigneau, nose: here we have one of the better whites fine winemaking, such as low temperature AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 90 tasted for this article. And with reason. For skin contact maceration and cold stabulation £10-£15 www.raynevigneau.fr one, the density of vine plantings - at 7,400 (6°C) on must deposits. Fermentation at 18-20°C 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Made from the same per hectare - is higher than most others in its and six months ageing on spent lees with talented team that crafts the Premier Cru Bordeaux AOC category. Straw yellow colour, stirring in French oak barrels. Highly Classé of Château Rayne Vigneau in Sauternes, with aromas of key lime pie, peach and a touch recommended for its freshness and palate ➢

Bordeaux and Bordeaux superieur advertorial.indd 91 16/09/2020 09:32 PROMOTIONAL FEATURE PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

density. Ripe juicy pear aspects along with Château Du Claouset, hints of toasted oak make this quite complex, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 88 too. I could enjoy this with lobster and butter. www.vignobles-siozard.com 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Sémillon, 5% Château Tour De Goupin, Sauvignon Gris, 5% Muscadelle. Clean, crisp AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 89 and smooth: you have to love the purity of www.vignobles-deffarge.fr fruit. Lemon and white stone fruit, at a juicy 70% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Muscadelle, 10% ripe stage, along with a touch of Kiwi for zing Sémillon. An excellent white for the vintage beckons further sipping (and drinking). And that should be considered for the UK market. with 30,000 bottles, this should enjoy a share Among the most vibrant of the wines tasted of the UK market. Careful attention to the for this article, it brings forth bright Kiwi and winemaking brings results: pneumatic lime on the nose and a tangy palate that pressure with skin maceration. The alcoholic includes some floral aspects and mid palate fermentation over 10 days at a low 15°C. density from the Sémillon. Do not hesitate. Château Ferreyres, Bdx Revolution, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 88 AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 88 Under £10 Bacchus Wine Cellar £10-£15 www.producta-vignobles.com 100% Sauvignon Blanc. A successful white 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Quite a nice wine for with notes of grapefruit and kiwi. The palate a machine harvest. Just as this estate excelled Château Cajus Blanc Tradition, conveys freshness and energy, in part thanks in 2018, it does again in 2019. Lime and Kiwi AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 88 to cold skin maceration for six hours before leap from the glass, but the palate has more www.chateau-cajus.bio pressing and cooler temperatures during of a white peach profile albeit it finishing on 50% Sémillon, 50% Sauvignon Blanc. alcoholic fermentation. Aging on the lees for citrus acidity - very Bordeaux Sauvignon Blanc. Aromatic and tangy, this certified organic four months lends richness, but in stainless In this solar vintage, the cold fermentation was wine would go down well as an aperitif: steel tanks, so that the character is more fruit essential to preserve freshness. 2020-2022 aromas and flavours include kiwi, lime and forward. Bring on the raw oysters! wet stone. I like the energy here! Château Belle Garde, Château Grand Jean, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 88 Château De La Vieille Tour, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 88 Under £10 Lea & Sanderman AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 88 www.vignobles-dulon.com 70% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Sémillon, 10% www.boissonneau.fr 70% Sémillon, 30% Sauvignon Blanc. Château Sauvignon Gris. Medium lemon hue, peach 40% Sémillon, 30% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Grand Jean is one of the whites here that aromas. A touch of oak? Smooth on the Sauvignon Gris, 10% Muscadelle. Certified bursts with energy and fun. While some are palate, a certain breed that transcends the organic and a pure aromatic expression that more “cerebral”, this wine packs bright citrus varietal nature of the wine. Indeed, clays over blends fresh cut grass and suggests lavender: and ripe white stone fruit aromas and flavours a limestone base of the vineyards in the quite herbal in fact, but not too ostentatious. in glass. The success of the wine depends on Génissac sector bring balance and class to A touch of ripe pear and lemon sneak through careful winemaking after careful harvesting: this wine. Careful picking to avoid with aeration. The palate has much zest and Pressing with selection of must, cold oxidization, carried out from 4am until 10am. energy but nonetheless expressed in a smooth stabilization, racking of the must to extract The fermentation at 15° conserves fruity texture leading to a fresh and pleasing finish; the finest aromas, fermentation at a lower character. Try it with fish or even veal in a no doubt the Sémillon lends body. Should temperature (18-20° to preserve freshness), cream sauce. For the price, do not hesitate. go nicely with smoked or grilled salmon. maturing on fine lees for three months to obtain aromas and rounded taste, fining, filtering, Chateau Buisson Redon Blanc, Château De Parenchère, blending and bottling. The wine can be enjoyed AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 88 AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 88 alone but even better with hors d’oeuvres https://chateaumaynevieil.com/ £10-£15 Peter Osborne Wines, Oxfordshire such as tapas or with a shrimp platter. 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Importers take note! 50% Sémillon, 30% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% The Château Buisson-Redon is part of Château Muscadelle. A wine that has a touch of oak Château Haut-Rian, Mayne-Vieil in Fronsac and is a lovely wine. Pale seasoning and hides the varietal nature well. AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 88 lemon hue. The nose comes across like the And yet the three grapes used are recognised £10-£15 Thorman Hunt label: classic. Ripe grapefruit rind and lemon in the blend ; the floral Muscadelle, the peachy 60% Sémillon, 40% Sauvignon Blanc. The old cake presage a medium bodied palate that Sémillon, the citrus Sauvignon Blanc. The vine Sémillon dominates here, especially on brings forth some fine wet stone minerality. whole is greater than the sum of its parts. A the palate, which is rich without being heavy Fermentation at low temperature to maintain wine of polish given some excellent limestone or warm, given the vintage. The end result is a freshness and short maceration on the lees soils. The estate carries out sustainable mouth watering wine, not without depth, and to obtain a bit of richness. This would be just vine-growing, via “Agriculture Raisonnée” thus a white that can be considered both fine with oysters on a half shell or goat cheese (Reasoned Farming), and it received in 2012 “serious” and delicious. Certainly would be with herbs. Highly recommended for the the HEV certification (High Environmental good with charcuterie and cheeses, but it has price, which would be less than £10 in the UK. Value farm) – Level 3 – the highest level. the depth to match paella, for example. Bravo!

Bordeaux and Bordeaux superieur advertorial.indd 92 16/09/2020 09:32 PROMOTIONAL FEATURE PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Château La Freynelle, Who needs New Zealand when you can get a grapes are sourced from both Graves and AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 88 less expensive Bordeaux that exudes bright Entre-Deux-Mers and low-temperature £10-£15 Tees Ltd citrus flavours and mid palate depth? The pale vinification preserves freshness. The oak 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Sémillon, 20% yellow robe presages an expressive nose barrel aging bring about subtle creaminess Muscadelle. From the get go, this wine shows combining multiple citrus aromas and flavours, to the mid palate. Michel Lynch Blanc should freshness for the vintage. The palate is rounded from blood orange to grapefruit rind. A be drunk cool (around 12°C) as an aperitif or yet with vivacity. Apricot, lemon and white touch of mango adds more fun. The palate as the ideal accompaniment to seafood or flower aromas and flavours enchant the palate, exudes pure and clean fruit expressions, roast chicken, even served cold with mustard. which is rather pleasingly creamy in texture, balancing acidity with the natural richness of medium bodied and juicy. This would the 2019 vintage. Serve confidently with raw Verso de Château Franc Baudron, accompany very well a grilled salmon and oysters and clams or with grilled squid AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 88 even has enough oomph to match Pad Thai. soaked in lemon juice and olive oil. www.chateau-franc-baudron.com White wines were historically a major part of 47% Sauvignon Blanc, 47% Sémillon, 6% the region’s production, and now represent Château Recougne, Muscadelle. Medium lemon hue, this wine is around 25% of the total surface of vines planted AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 88 a success: Certified organic, the purity of at La Freynelle. Love the easy-open screwcap! Under £10 Majestic fruit engages the taster, as does the vivacity 35% Sauvignon Blanc, 35% Sauvignon Gris, of the wine, which I enjoyed over a lunch with Château Lauduc Classic, 30% Sémillon. Like other astute vintners, this salmon, ham, sliced avocado, carrots and AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 88 estate’s team harvest at daybreak to ensure tomatoes. It would also go well with a shrimp Under £10 The Good Wine Shop freshness - a fact so important that they put platter or olive tapenade. And the label is 75% Sauvignon Blanc, 25% Sémillon. Among it on their back label. In a solar vintage like hard to beat. Importers should take notice. the last whites assessed for this article and 2019, that paid dividends: quite a bright wine, the saying “last but not least” comes to with vivid citrus aromas and flavours. It may mind: for the low price, one enjoys pomelo lack the depth and density of some of the Crémant de Bordeaux 2019 fruit, white peach, hints of litchi fruit and very top wines here, but it still earns plaudits Château Sainte Marie Brut Nature, lemon. As much as I like the expressive for freshness and “drinkability”. Bravo! Crémant de Bordeaux 2019 88 aromatics, the palate is pleasingly dense and £15 Enotria rich, with a finish that is just a touch bitter, Loudenne Le Chateau, 48% Merlot, 52% Cabernet Franc. Assisted like Indian Tonic. A wine that could easily be AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 88 by star consultant oenologist Hubert de shared as an aperitif to open a party or to £15 Hayward Bros Bouard of Château Angélus in Saint Emilion. accompany of plate of cheese and ham. 85% Sauvignon Blanc, 15% Sémillon. The vinification is indeed Brut Nature, and “Bottled in late March at the northern aged for six months in French oak barrels of Château Milord Les Calcaires, Médoc estate, this is lovely white with a long which one third are new. A tad steely but AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 88 history. Frank and fresh with mid palate kudos for crafting a bubbly to go very well www.bordeauxlink.wine/ density. Fermented and aged for eight with shellfish. 33% Sauvignon Blanc, 33% Sémillon, 34% months in oak barrels, it has been a symbol Muscadelle. Engaging aromas suggest of Château Loudenne since ... 1880. Oak Les Fines Du Payre Blanc, depth: wet stone, sweet herbs, prairie aging lends a certain “”sheen”” that Crémant de Bordeaux 2019 88 flowers. Indeed, this unique blend with more transcends the varietal aspects and yet one £8 www.chateau-du-payre.fr than one-third Muscadelle is charming. The gets the citrus from the Sauvignon Blanc and 100 % Sémillon. A zesty yet full bodied palate has depth, too, with a Sémillon driven peach from the Sémillon. The palate density bubbly, balancing richness with Granny density that remains fresh and fun, with citrus is such that it would pair well with pork chops Smith green apple vivacity. Importers should overtones. A juicy wine that sadly is limited for example, maybe with a mango sauce. take notice but you can buy online direct to 6,000 bottles. Highly recommended. from the estate. Would go well with both Michel Lynch, salmon and goat cheese on crackers. Château Pertignas Cuvée Priolet, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 88 AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 88 £10-£15 AC Gallie Perle De La Brande, £10-£15 David Matheson (Guernesey) 100 % Sauvignon Blanc. Crisp clean and vibrant, Crémant de Bordeaux 2019 88 95% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Muscadelle. Not quite this is always a reliable Bordeaux white: Pale www.chateau-labrande.fr as good as the 2017, this 2019 nonetheless is a lemon hue, aromatics that combine citrus Based in Fronsac, this estate is making some thoroughly pleasing wine: bright candied lemon and white blossom and pineapple, Michel fine bubbly: I like the verve on the palate, aromas precede a palate that is both smoothly Lynch Blanc manages to provide a succulent with aromas and flavours of red apple, wet textured and bright. The finish has a grapefruit and vibrant attack on the palate, given the stone and toasted almond. Exudes energy, fresh lift to it, and the wine would be ideal with challenges of the 2019 vintage. The white density and… fun. Bravo! oysters on a half shell with a touch of lemon juice.

Château Pierrail, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 2019 88 Booths 70% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Sauvignon Gris.

Bordeaux and Bordeaux superieur advertorial.indd 93 16/09/2020 09:33