History decrees, but nobility obliges

“My walls, they are of fire.” Mudejar Proverb

“T he very noble and very loyal city of Chinchón” is probably the HINCHÓN shortest and most concentrated compendium of the history of CAnd Its Parador Spain since the country’s most remote origins. From prehistoric times until the last Civil War, Chinchón has served as an exceptional backdrop for the theatre of our cultures and civilizations, a museum and stage for the best laughter and the bitterest tears.

These fertile lands of Vega de Tajuña have been coveted since the beginning of time and many are the peoples who have passed through or settled here. The earliest recorded inhabitants belonged to the Neolithic era and lived, or rather took shelter, in some of the many caves that can still be seen in the area. One of them, known as La Cueva de la Mora, is right here in Chinchón.

Remains of an Iberian settlement have also been found on the hill known as El Salitral. Even today, you only have to scratch the surface of the ground to uncover pieces of the clay tools and utensils used by the Iberians. Visitors, however, are asked to refrain from confirming this fact. Another thing that is easy to prove is the presence of the Roman colonizers and the mark they left. It is likely that their camps stretched from neighboring Titulcia to Chinchón. The remains include the following inscription:

“Emilius Faustus, while still alive, had this made for his most pious and indulgent wife Emilia and himself.”

(Inscription on a Roman tombstone)

During the long period of Moorish occupation, Chinchón belonged to the kingdom of Toledo. Then, in the mid-11th century Fernando I conquered the territory for the Christian cause. Soon after, Alfonso VI would consolidate this victory with the definitive recovery of all the territories between today’s Talavera de la Reina and . After many ups and downs, revolts, conquests, and re-conquests, the town was finally brought into the Christian dominion by the feats and grace of Alfonso VII. Chinchón was repopulated by “people from Segovia, mainly shepherds. Their lands were divided into ‘quiñones.’”

It was about this time, during the reign of Enrique IV, that Chinchón was granted town status. For quite some time it became a refuge and place of leisure for the more or less rebellious and powerful nobility. But following the death of Enrique IV, the Catholic Monarchs gave Chinchón to the Cabrera-Boadilla family to rule, freeing it from the jurisdiction of the shepherds of Segovia:

“We grant you grace and favor, with civil and criminal justice and jurisdiction both high and low… And all taxes, rights, punishments, and calumnies, and anything else belonging to these places so that they may belong to you and to your heirs…”

History and time sped forward to the Renaissance with its art, but also its wars and rebellions: the Comuneros rebellion against Carlos V reached even Chinchón. In the mid-16th century, the estate of Chinchón was

CHINCHÓN AND ITS PARADOR 1 granted the title of countship by the grace of Emperor Carlos V. and killed and another two were stoned to death. But one managed to escape and warn the French troops entrenched in ….” From that time onwards, Chinchón would continue as a countship. “In the Wars of Succession, it was always on And so the French returned with a desire the side of the Borbons.” The War of for revenge, vengeance, and plunder. Even Independence also reached the town, with today, there is a monument known as the disastrous results. Columna de los Franceses (Column of the French) in the main square as a reminder All this happened by chance, according of the story. to the records:

“In about 1808, a party of French soldiers came through Chinchón. As they were crossing the square, someone said they were fleeing. Two of them were shot

Augustine Monastery and Pilgrims’ Parador

A he traveler visiting for the first time, possibly by chance, will years later was converted into a monastery. The council donated one almost certainly ask the question: is this place, this Parador, this hundred ducats towards its construction, a large sum at the time. town, real? During the War of Independence, Napoleon decreed that the convents It all looks more like a stage erected for the benefit of the outsider, and monasteries of Spain be conquered. But it was his brother Joseph – almost always from another country. However, nothing could be further Pepe Botella – who decided to extend this measure and order the closure from the truth, even though the air of fantasy pervades the town, of all religious institutions and the expulsion of members of the orders, accompanying us wherever we go. seizing all the property held in monasteries and convents.

Everyone from Chinchón knows that there are spirits and ghosts all On March 19, 1812, the anniversary of Fernando VI’s coronation, the around: “They have always been in the caves [prehistoric ruins] and they Constitution was solemnly enacted by the Assembly of Cádiz. It was not always will be in the castle and all around here.” The locals have been until September of that year, once the town had been freed from the saying the same for centuries. But the town’s story is different now, French, that the people of Chinchón could swear an oath to the although it does not lack legends not yet forgotten by the oldest Constitution in a ceremony held in this very monastery. The town inhabitants. archives show that the ceremony included a solemn mass and, after the Gospel, a priest read out the full text of the Constitution so that it The Parador which you are visiting today sits on the site of a would be known to the people. monastery built by Augustinian monks in the 17th The members of the town century. The lords of Chinchón council and all the people of founded this religious the town then swore before community at the end of the the mayor “to uphold and 15th century and installed the have upheld the Constitution first monks here under the of the Spanish Monarchy as protection of the castle, outside approved by the General the town walls. In 1626, the Assembly and the Order of Calced Augustinians extraordinary assemblies of obtained the necessary papal the Nation, and to be loyal to bulls and licenses to override the King.” The Augustinian their prohibition, as decreed by monks who had been expelled Felipe IV. They were able to from Chinchón would move from the old location to eventually return to their a group of houses, which some monastery. Under an order

2 CHINCHÓN AND ITS PARADOR issued by Fernando VII in 1914, they were able Thanks to the miraculous work of the architect to recover all the property that had previously Juan Palazuelo, the building has recovered its been taken from them. original baroque appearance and Renaissance features. Two stories surround the central cloister, It was about this time that the convent was connected by two staircases. The rooms lead off turned into an academic and cultural center. The this central area. study of Theology, Latin, and the Humanities gained prestige here and drew a large following of It is inevitable that recent important figures students. But bad times were to return as a result have passed through the Parador. of the law calling for the confiscation of religious property (1837). The state seized the monastery. Tina Turner stayed here not long ago and Five years later it was ceded to the town council brought the crowds with her. Luis Eduardo Aute is by the regent, Count Luis María de Borbón. This said to have been inspired by the Parador and is how it became the home of the law courts and monastery to write his song “Templo” (“Temple”). jail. To add insult to injury, over the course of its history, the monastery has also suffered several Chinchón has also served as a “discreet meeting fires. The most recent, in 1929, left the building place” for politicians and businesspeople in ruins. throughout its history.

Finally, in 1973 the Chinchón town council donated what little was left of the monastery to the state. After a skilled and laborious restoration, it became the Parador we see today.

City and Stage for History

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1. Plaza Mayor (Main Square). 2. Castle. 6 3. La Cadena House. 4 4. Lope de Vega Theater. 7 5. Asunción Church. 6. Clock tower. 5 7. Inmaculada Concepción Monastery. 8. Shrine of San Roque. 1

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CHINCHÓN AND ITS PARADOR 3 A wide and varied cuisine these plains: Swiss chard, asparagus, eggplant, and fresh and dried beans; and Spanish omelets with any sort of filling imaginable, especially vegetables: asparagus, beans, peas, zucchini, or artichoke. N obody here will claim to offer exclusive recipes or exquisite and mysterious dishes. On the contrary, the Also not to be overlooked are some more local people – humble, yet still proud – almost substantial dishes. Chinchón can offer Lamb “as warn you that around here they eat what comes you like it”, Goat, and, of course, Chinchoneta from around here: beans, lamb, desserts, and good Beans. Sometimes there is Rabbit, Hare, wines. Partridge, or Oxtail.

However, the visitor will soon find that reality The visitor can try most of these dishes, and truly surpasses the modesty of the inhabitants: more, at the Parador, choosing from a menu that many excellent restaurants in Chinchón offer an always includes a dozen substantial dishes which extensive and varied menu. Of course, the most are guaranteed to be good. There may be, for important dishes of the Castilian Meseta are always examples, dishes made with Fresh Vegetables, to be found here, and dishes and recipes from the either blanched, boiled, or stuffed; and in winter a two Castiles. There is also a good selection of the restorative Suckling Lamb stew with Chinchón best the capital of the kingdom has to offer. Garlic.

The origins of Chinchón’s cuisine go back at The Parador offers visitors the least as far as the time of the Moors. Historians opportunity to enjoy two different claim that these lands were always good for restaurants: El Convento, with a theme olive-growing, for pastureland, and for every weekend; and El Bodegón, where we vegetables. Some even claim that the famous offer a winter menu featuring the oldest and Madrid cocido (chickpea stew) actually most traditional dishes from Madrid, originated in this area, although this is including traditional Chickpea Stew served extremely difficult to prove. What is certain is in two courses; and for summer, a menu that Chincón has overcome the French culinary with the theme: “The Cuisine of the influence imposed by the courtiers who traveled Plain.” through here to the royal residence in Aranjuez. In 1876, Doctor Thebussen even wrote to King There are many other dishes, such as a Alfonso XII’s master chef complaining “that Potatoes “a la importancia” (with river such a Castilian monarch allowed his crab), many of which feature the healthy language not to be used for dishes served at his accompaniment of Chinchón Garlic, an banquets…” integral part of the finest cuisine.

Whatever some may say, when in Chincón, Desserts are many and varied. The area depending on the season, the Garlic Soups can also offer some excellent wines. And at must not be missed. (When combined with local Chinchón bread, they are last, after dessert, the visitor should do the honor of ordering a glass of quite a different thing.) Nor should Vigilia Potage (in which cod takes on straight Chinchón Anisette. Or if it is very dry, ask for a glass with lots of a whole new meaning) or seasonal specialties such as snails and wild ice. You will be sipping, rather than drinking, a refreshing beverage from mushroom be neglected. Then there are the many vegetables grown in the early 20th century: you will be having an authentic Pajarita.

Travels among castles, luxury, and excess

xcursions from Chinchón? There is everything you could E possibly desire, as much as time and your stamina will allow. reigning monarchs became much more settled and less interested in wars. Chinchón is in the center of the center of the country. It was not With time they became more inclined towards other forms of government, by chance that the Romans settled in nearby Titulcia, or that they decided where politics gave marketing a try in the form of courtly protocol; where to make it the crossroads of routes to and from Toledo and Segovia, and luxury, excess, and other devotions were at the service of the imperial en route to Cesaraugusta through what is today Alcalá de Henares, or to image. Mérida. As the centuries passed, history would eventually confirm Madrid’s essential centrality. In 1561, Felipe II finally decided to make It was precisely for this reason that the so-called Reales Sitios (royal Madrid the official capital of all Spain. From that point onwards, the residences) were born. This is the first excursion we would recommend to the visitor:

4 CHINCHÓN AND ITS PARADOR A little to the south is Aranjuez. It was first To the north, some distance away, is built by the Emperor Carlos V on land that had Buitrago Castle. The building is Spanish belonged to the Order of Saint James. Towards Mudejar in style, and built on what was the north is El Escorial. Other, relatively originally an Arab site. Its seven towers and minor, residences are: La Zarzuela, La Granja three side walls protect the fortified enclosure. and El Pardo. They all had everything needed There is a magnificent 15th-century castle in for the court’s activities: hunting grounds, , also some distance gardens for strolling, and chapels for prayer. from the Parador. Naturally, each one was more or less suited to a particular time of year, or the needs and The designer and supervisor of customs of the moment. Travelers and Villaviciosa de Odón Castle was Juan de chroniclers from the 18th century wrote of the Herrera, who was also chosen by Felipe II to courtiers’ festive excursions: build the monastery/palace/mausoleum of his entire dynasty, El Escorial, and some that “At the beginning of the year, the court followed. leaves for El Pardo, where it spends the harsh winter, returning to Madrid for Holy Week… There is still a large four-story tower in Their Majesties then move to Aranjuez, where Arroyomolinos Castle, to the south of the spring is beautiful. The estate is fertile with city of Madrid. abundant hunting in delightful surroundings. From here they move to Valsaín (La Granja). The court spends the summer is also relatively close to the Parador and has a 15th-century in this isolated, pleasant palace, until the middle of October, when it castle with an imposing tower and attractive walls. Its unique well is said returns to El Escorial. As soon as the first snow falls upon the roof of this to recall certain verses by the immortal Garcilaso de la Vega, who was, enchanted monastery, the court moves back to Madrid…” apparently, the brother of the original owner.

(Cristóbal del Hoyo Solórzano, Madrid from the Inside, 1745) Casasola Castle must not be forgotten. More than an excursion, this is a stroll between Titulcia and Chinchón. It is an interesting fortification, The Route of the Castles although today only a few ruins of its glorious past remain, including a stone bridge and fosse with a courtyard inside. It is said that there was a If you have time, the route of the castles is extremely interesting. It is passageway to the other side of the hill so that the privileged few would be difficult to organize just one route from the Parador to see all the twenty able to escape in the event of an enemy siege, whether it be Moorish or or so castles that have defended the in the past and Christian. continue to leave their mark on the area today. Each could be a separate excursion, or several can be grouped together.

Parador de Chinchón Avda. del Generalísimo, 1. 28370 Chinchón (Madrid) Tel.: 91 894 08 36 - Fax: 91 894 09 08 e-mail: [email protected] Central de Reservas Requena, 3. 28013 Madrid (España) Tel.: 902 54 79 79 - Fax: 902 52 54 32 www.parador.es / e-mail: [email protected] wap.parador.es/wap/

Textos: Miguel García Sánchez Dibujos: Fernando Aznar

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