IRELAND 2020

www.liberoguide.com 2020 www.liberoguide.com INTRO

areas otherwise bereft of any rail connection. Tickets can be purchased

Tallaght in advance, online.

Sister company Bus Dublin’s national hosts in 2011. All the same, the ten-team won since the last-gasp FAI Cup win (dublinbus.ie) covers the Irish capital, four games as part of Euro 2020, a top division features four clubs from of 2013. complemented by the LUAS light rail huge boost for soccer in Ireland. The the capital, venerable Shelbourne FC and the DART coastal train, operated domestic game, however, has long gaining promotion in 2019. For the intrepid groundhopper, by state-owned Irish Rail, Iarnród pivoted away from the capital. Ireland is the perfect destination, Éireann (irishrail.ie). Plans now call for Shels to share with affordable, pay-on-the-day will be looking to add a third with age-old rivals admission, bars at many grounds and Station to stadium Rail travel is generally dearer and straight crown to the back-to-back ones Bohemians, probably around 2023. an easy-going atmosphere at most There are half-a-dozen airports in less extensive around Ireland, though won in 2018 and 2019. Since Ireland’s matches. And while some facilities Ireland with links to the UK and regular this is changing. The journey between switch to summer soccer in 2003, 16 Renamed after influential club may need improving, the game here bus connections to surrounding towns. Dublin and is now a comfortable titles have been divided equally with the captain Ryan McBride, who passed isn’t a sanitised product played Direct services from experience and online ticket deals can provinces, but it was back in 2013 when away suddenly in 2017, out for the profit of some offshore also run to most cities and main towns. be attractive. Southsiders St Patrick’s Athletic last City’s Brandywell Stadium is also oligarch. This is football at its most raised the trophy in Dublin. redeveloped, with an impressive main raw and, possibly, romantic – what State-owned Bus Éireann (buseireann. Motorways connect Dublin with all stand and a 3G artificial pitch. Local other reason could there be to visit ie) has the most comprehensive and major towns. Distances are given in Shamrock Rovers may be record support is equally passionate in , , home of the once mighty competitively priced public-transport kilometres and toll charges are paid champions – but their last title was though major silverware has not been Finn Harps? network around Ireland, reaching in cash.

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DERRY

BALLYBOFEY

SLIGO Shelbourne FC DUNDALK three regional leagues compete in their own knock-out tournament, the FAI Intermediate Cup, previously known as DUBLIN the FAI Qualifying Cup. The 16 that reached the Fourth Round Cork City in the previous season’s competition go into the First Round of the senior Tables & trophies 22. Teams finishing second and third FAI Cup. They are joined by the four The consists of two enter the first qualifying round of the semi-finalists from the FAI Junior Cup, divisions, Premier and First, of ten clubs Europa League for the same season. a wide-reaching amateur tournament in each. Teams play each other four The winners of the FAI Cup join them involving some 600 teams. times in a 36-game season. – or the fourth-placed side nips in if the trophy goes to a team finishing Of these 20 clubs, four receive byes At senior level, at the end of the above it. Ireland’s main knock-out to the Second Round of the FAI Cup. season, the team bottom of the tournament, currently sponsored by The final of the FAI Intermediate Cup Premier swaps places with the the Irish Daily Mail, was most recently and FAI Junior Cup are now both CORK winners of the First. Runners-up play decided by a penalty shoot-out won played at the Aviva Stadium. off with ninth-placed finishers from by Shamrock Rovers over Dundalk the Premier Games are over two in front of a 30,000-plus crowd at ties, including the semi-finals, with The three main regional leagues of There is one more knock-out trophy, legs, home and away. Extra-time and Dublin’s Aviva Stadium. replays from the quarter-final stage Leinster, Munster and form involving the 20 senior teams and four penalties decide if aggregate scores onwards, extra time and penalties a de facto third tier but there is no invited from the lower leagues. The are level. FAI Cup holders and LoI champions in earlier rounds. The 20 League of direct promotion or relegation with , aka EA Sports traditionally meet at the curtain- Ireland clubs enter at the Second the League of Ireland, whose reserve Cup, with its four-pool regional The 2020 Premier Division champions raising President’s Cup a week before Round stage, plus four teams from sides compete at this level. The Ulster structure earlier on, is decided over gain access to the first qualifying the regular league season. Ireland’s lower leagues, given a bye as Senior League mainly features sides a one-leg final. The winners do not round of the Champions League 2021- The FAI Cup is decided over one-leg the draw is made. from . Teams from these qualify for Europe.

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Shamrock Rovers INTRO

Au Celtique

Shamrock Rovers, St Patrick’s CONTENTS Athletic, Dundalk, Cork, Derry and 4-6 Dublin Waterford offer advance sales for 7 Aviva Stadium individual matches, either online or 8 Bohemians from the ticket office/club shop. 9 St Patrick’s Athletic Availability is rarely a problem and 10 Shamrock Rovers Aviva Stadium pay-on-the-day is the norm. Visiting 11 Shelbourne FC supporters usually have their own 12 Ballybofey turnstile and area of the ground. 13 Finn Harps 14 Cork Season’s dealings Friday night football is now firmly occasional Saturday night fixture. Welcome to liberoguide.com! 15 Cork City Ireland introduced summer football established, games usually kicking Town prefer 7.30pm, Using only original photos and first- 16 Derry in 2003. The 2020 season kicks off off at 7.45pm. One evening fixture is Ramblers 7pm. hand research, liberoguide.com 17 Derry City on Friday, February 14 and runs until often reserved for Saturday, while enhances every football weekend and 18 Dundalk the third week of October, bookended four midweek rounds are scheduled, Entry level Euro night experience. From airport to 19 Dundalk FC by the FAI Cup final on November 1. given the Euro 2020 break. At most grounds, admission is cash- arena, downtown sports bar to hotel, 20 Sligo With Euro 2020 in Dublin, the only at the turnstiles, prices around liberoguide.com enables you to get the 21 Sligo Rovers domestic season will break for two Kick-off times in the First Division €15, €10 for seniors and students, €5 best out of your visit to football’s furthest 22 Waterford weeks in the middle of June. are also Friday 7.45pm, with the for children. corners and showcase . 23 Waterford FC

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Blooms Hotel DUBLIN

the Dublin monopoly on the domestic a new stadium in , south-west league from the 1930s onwards, the Dublin, stalled. national side has only played four home games outside Dublin since the first in Making up Dublin’s Big Four, St 1924. Patrick’s Athletic share southside loyalties with Shamrock Rovers. Irish In a seminal decision, temporary champions in 2013, FAI Cup winners permission was granted for soccer to in 2014, never-relegated St Pat’s are be played at Gaelic football stronghold based at Richmond Park, , Croke Park. in south-west Dublin, bringing tifo colour and choreography to Dublin Across town, another stadium saga had derby games. These same fans were

The Back Page long been unfolding in . the first to protest when a potential While the Bohs had been formed groundshare with Shamrock Rovers at near the North Circular Road in 1890, Tallaght was mooted in 1996. popularity of England’s Premier League internationals after the national side Shelbourne and Shamrock Rovers Dublin and dominance of Gaelic football. It had gained mass support from the hailed from southside . This Construction started on Tallaght wasn’t until 1971 that Ireland’s national late 1980s onwards, the Dalymount simple north v south dynamic was Stadium in 2008. Set near the Dublin is where 50,000 gather to roar team started to share was abandoned to its remit of hosting skewed when the former Ringsend terminus of the light rail line from on Ireland’s national side in a modern with its rugby counterparts. Bohemians. residents were forced to groundshare town (and direct from St Pat’s, arena chosen to co-host Euro 2020. northside from the late prompting the term ‘LUAS derby’), Across town from the Aviva, half-a- Until then, Dalymount Park had With no Dalymount, no Lansdowne 1980s onwards. For Rovers, it followed the new arena witnessed Cristiano dozen clubs, four a century or more old, been the home of the round-ball Road after its demolition in 2007, and the controversial sale of their revered Ronaldo’s debut for Real Madrid in a strive to attract 3,000-plus crowds in a game, hosting its first match in 1901 the Aviva three years away from being Glenmalure Park in southside Milltown. friendly that July. two-division, 20-team domestic league. between Dublin’s most enduring clubs, built on the same site, Ireland’s soccer Bohemians (Bohs) and Shelbourne team needed a stadium. Other towns Ireland’s most popular and most titled A year later, Manchester United strode Attempts to increase gates are gradually (Shels, promoted to the Premier have rarely been an option. Though club, Rovers remained homeless for out against a League of Ireland XI before succeeding but not helped by the for 2020). Unfit to host competitive Dundalk, Cork and Waterford broke more than 20 years as development of a newly opened and packed Aviva.

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The Auld Dubliner DUBLIN

The Shelbourne

once you touch into the ticket machine. the city centre for rugby weekends in Journeys over 13 stages are a flat €2.60. February and March. On the LUAS and Dublin short-hop DART & Commuter rail zone (including For the rest of the year, there is plenty Blackrock and Bray), touch in and touch of choice within walking distance of the off as you board and alight. national arena and its DART station an easy hop to and from the city centre. Other buses into the city from the airport Lansdowne Road lodgings such as Ariel are the Nos.16 and 41 via Drumcondra, House and Butlers Town House offer The main home games for Ireland’s 2020. Relegated in 2019, UCD represent main bus station, BusÁras (off-peak and the 24hr aircoach to the centre (€7 old-school hospitality in lovely historic successful qualification campaign for University College Dublin in Belfield, journey time 30min) near Connolly rail single, €12 return, €6/€11 online, every properties. Euro 2016 attracted 50,000 crowds, as while Cabinteely from the leafy Dublin station. Allow more journey time in 15min, 30min journey time). the domestic league improved. Summer suburb of the same name made the rush hour, especially when coming from In the new Docklands development, football, Friday night games, the promotional play-off final in 2019. town. Airport Taxi (+353 1 290 9090) quotes still walking distance from the Aviva, supporter-focused FanPoweredFootball Home games are played at Blackrock €24 for the city centre. For a taxi in town, The Marker is the suitably upscale, campaign and promotion by league College RFC on Stradbrook Road near Tickets are €6 single/€10 return. The call NRC on +353 1 677 2222. contemporary hotel, with spa and cool sponsors Airtricity (‘Real Football, Real Monkstown, south Dublin. multi-transport Leap Card (€5 plus €5 bar, where FC Barcelona stayed before Fans’) have all helped to raise gates. credit) is valid but offers no savings on Bed the pre-season game with Celtic in July Bearings the airport bus. It does offer reductions Visit Dublin has a database of hotels at 2016. Bray Wanderers, down the coast Dublin Airport is 10km (six miles) north on all other Dublin buses, the LUAS www.visitdublin.com/dublin-city-hotels. from Dublin on the DART rail line, of the city. Dublin Bus Airlink 747 leaves light-rail line and DART & commuter Just over the river Dodder from the relegated in 2018, will be challenging every 10-15min for Heuston rail station rail lines. On the bus, tell the driver Note that rooms are booked stadium, the family-run is for promotion from the First Division in (off-peak journey time 50min) via the your destination for him to deduct fare early around the Aviva Stadium and another reliable and convenient choice.

liberoguide.com 5 IRELAND 2020 Dublin www.liberoguide.com/dublin

Nearer to town but still only a stroll The Living Room DUBLIN from the Aviva, the Landsdowne Hotel garners loyal repeat custom thanks to the Quinn family welcome. Its Den Bar tends towards the oval ball – note the largest collection of rugby ties in the world.

Beside the aircoach bus stop south of town, a 15-minute walk from Lansdowne Road, the landmark, 502- room Clayton Hotel Burlington Road was completely refurbished in 2014.

In the same family as the Ballsbridge Hotel, the maldron group runs a number of mid- and upper-range hotels at key locations in downtown Dublin, as well as five minutes’ walk from , where you’ll also find the Glashaus, all sleek and The Marker vast screens and 15 smaller plasma contemporary but affordable. ones, and The Living Room, which shows almost every league known For an authentic Dublin pub to man and whose outdoor screen is experience combined with an If you’d rather stay an easy stagger from while O’Neill’s in nearby Suffolk Street is claimed to be Europe’s largest. The 3 affordable, comfortable room, the many pubs of Temple Bar, then the a more traditional bet. Spirits, Dublin’s first Brazilian bar, is O’Donoghue’s is perfect. The Blooms Hotel is a handy mid-range lined with screens for soccer watching greatest names in Irish music have choice while the Temple Bar Hotel itself In the heart of Temple Bar, the Auld – the food can be hit and miss, but that’s all played in the illustrious bar below. combines contemporary comfort with Dubliner always gets mobbed on big- not why you’re there. live music in its bar every night of the match weekends while the Bad Ass On the other side of the street is week. Nearby, the refurbished Fleet Temple Bar is now more pub-like than A fairly recent addition to the sport pub the most famous hotel in town, The Street Hotel is also handy for a bar-hop. when Sinéad O’Connor worked here on Hogan Place is a relative newbie, a scene, up in , The Back Shelbourne where the Free State back in the day. trendy spot that goes big on rarer beers Page comprises a chatty front bar, a constitution was drafted in 1922. Beer while showing TV sports and providing larger back one featuring a wall-length Here you can book a genealogist, Pubs are why people come to Dublin Back on the south side, further down shelfloads of board games. mural dedicated to Italia ‘90, an alcove a therapeutic spa or a table at The – which is why the Temple Bar area on towards St Stephen’s Green, Sinnotts casually scattered with stacks of cult Saddle Room restaurant. Its historic the south bank of the Liffey is mobbed is mobbed on big-match nights, with 14 North of the river, you’ll find a more soccer publications (Austrian Ballesterer, Horseshoe Bar is equally refined – every night. For TV football, the party- large screens. Between Pearse station international style of sports bar, such anyone?) and an astroturf-decked and renowned. centric Trinity Bar has a huge screen and Merrion Square, The Square Ball as the antipodean Woolshed, with three garden and picnic area. Screens abound.

liberoguide.com 6 IRELAND 2020 Aviva Stadium www.liberoguide.com/aviva-stadium

Crowe’s at No.10 has been linked with STADIUM AVIVA rugby for generations.

On Pembroke Road, that forks off from Shelbourne Road, the Den Bar downstairs from the Lansdowne Hotel is again more rugby-focused but offers a relaxing spot for a pre-match Guinness. More spacious but not as authentic, The Dubliner nearby at the Ballsbridge Hotel is closer to the stadium. being stuck on the narrow waterside pathway is no fun. More contemporary in vein, The Gasworks in the Bay Brewery For away fans, there’s no pedestrian family is an excellent pre-match access down the narrow streets and choice, with a score or more choices cul-de-sacs behind the North Stand of beer on tap in an urban-style bar, furthest from the DART line. Head decent food and a pool table. It’s about for the red-ticket entrance from Bath 100 metres from the main pre-match Avenue. bar hub that orbits around Slattery’s.

Transport At the junction of Bath Avenue, The stadium is right by Lansdowne Shelbourne Road and Haddington Sponsored by insurance company Aviva Road station on the DART line (every Road and Grand Canal Street Upper, Aviva for a reported €40 million-plus sum, 15min Mon-Sat, every 40min Sun) with Slattery’s is the busiest of the many the €400 million-plus stadium opened a direct link from Connolly (10min), establishments that surround the The Aviva is Ireland’s national in 2010 with the visit of Manchester Tara Street (6min) and Pearse (5min) Aviva, its glassed-in packed stadium, the home of its soccer and United – who had also been the first stations. before the game. On Bath Avenue, rugby teams whose associations share team to play football at Lansdowne the former classic stadium pub The 50-50 ownership of this gleaming Road against Waterford in 1968. Bars Lansdowne has gone gastro – but The arena. By the banks of the Dodder, there’s Old Spot is still used on match days as Impressive in appearance, its a row of three pubs on Merrion Road a drinking haunt. Unveiled in 2010, venue of the Europa undulating, translucent roof designed Tickets and entrances are colour- – just cross over the water and head League final a year later and for four to allow maximum light to the pitch coded: purple on the corner of Herbert up Shelbourne Road for the stadium Along Haddington Road, Ryan’s fixtures for Euro 2020, the Aviva stands without obstructing surrounding and Lansdowne Road, blue, orange a 7min walk away. Paddy Cullen’s Beggars Bush sets up for mobbed on the site of the old Lansdowne Road residencies, the Aviva comprises five and green via Shelbourne Road. It may goes big on pub food and TV football. match days with a large outdoor area, ground that performed the same tiers, the fourth dedicated to corporate be an idea to familiarise yourself with Attached, Mary Mac’s is lined with three indoor bars, a barbecue and TV function until its closure in 2006. spectators. the geography beforehand because screens for sports action. Century-old screens everywhere.

liberoguide.com 7 IRELAND 2020 Bohemians www.liberoguide.com/bohemians

Pay-on-the-night admission is at the BOHEMIANS main entrance through the alleyway off the North Circular Road, near St Peter’s Church.

Prices are set at €15, €10 for over-65s and students, €5 for under-12s.

Shop Merchandise available on match nights includes a selection of club badges, scarves, home shirts and tracksuit The old-school feel is accentuated by jackets. the floodlights, installed at Highbury in 1951 and shipped to Dublin a decade Bars later. Traditional pubs have been in place at Doyle’s Corner by Dalymount Park Transport for over a century. The Bohemian (66 Several buses run to Phibsborough Phibsborough Road) was built for owner from the city centre. No.4 (direction John Doyle in 1907. Facing it at No.160, Harristown) and No.9 (direction John Doyle’s is similar in style and Charlestown) leave from diagonally heritage and has TV football. opposite the Savoy Cinema on O’Connell Street and take 10-15min to Beside Doyle’s at No.159, The Hut dates Last winning the title in 2009, shopping centre also needs addressing reach Phibsborough Shopping Centre. back to 1852 and does honest pub food Bohemians Bohemians secured their future – The Bohs play at what was a The No.46A stops 50 yards further of beef stew, roast lamb and the like. when Dublin City Council purchased 40,000-capacity stadium. Here Brady up O’Connell Street at Cathal Brugha Ireland’s oldest league club still in Dalymount and announced a €20 and Giles made their Ireland debuts Street and continues to St Peter’s continuous existence, Bohemian million phased rebuild. and Beckenbauer, Gullit and Paolo Church, closer to Dalymount’s main On match nights, three bars operate FC are based at equally venerable Rossi played international matches. entrance, accessed down a narrow under the main Jodi Stand. With its Dalymount Park in Phibsborough. Ireland’s national football stadium for alleyway from the North Circular Road. three large-screen TVs, jukebox and more than half a century, Dalymount is Today’s capacity is around 4,000 and pool table, the Members’ Bar is open to Eternal rivals of Shamrock Rovers, in dire need of a rebuild. This is exactly only the newest, main Jodi Stand is These services run every 15-20min, the all. It also operates Friday and Saturday The Bohs are all about longevity and what it will be getting, with a realigned in full use, roofed and all-seated. No.4 hourly Sun. nights, and Sunday lunchtimes. For tradition. Owned by its members since plastic pitch, a new main stand and Away fans in small numbers will be home fans and neutrals, the Phoenix being founded at Phoenix Park in seating behind each goal. accommodated here – for derby games Tickets Bar puts on post-match live acts and 1890, the club played its first game at with Dublin clubs, the open seating in Tickets are available online DJs. Renovated in 2017, the Jackie Dalymount in 1901, against northside With planning still ongoing – the the Des Kelly Carpets Stand, aka the (bohemianfc.com/?page_id=10770) for Jameson Bar is a more comfortable neighbours Shelbourne. adjoining faceless Phibsborough Shed End, is allocated. all home games. spot for Bohs fans.

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under-12s. No children are allowed in PATRICK’SST ATHLETIC otherwise.

Shop An outlet for St Pat’s merchandise opens by the main stand on match nights, selling home and away tops, scarves, hats and tracksuits, plus DVDs of recent triumphs.

Bars Three key pubs line Emmet Road. Nearest the ground, venerable Richmond House/McDowell’s was taken over by the club in 2006 and flies the flags of St Pat’s outside. Inside, it’s pretty standard, with surprisingly few red-and-white souvenirs or this well run, community club with a on the narrow open Carmac Terrace paraphernalia. solid fan base. opposite. On the same side of the street at No.97, Suitable for staging European fixtures Transport Coffey’s has the space to contain a pool since supporters clubbed together to The quickest way to Richmond table, DJ decks at the back, old 45s on fund the installation of the Patrons’ Park is to take the LUAS red line to one wall and Celtic, United and Villa St Patrick’s Stand in 2013, a block of open seats Goldenbridge (25min from Busáras shirts on another – Paul McGrath is still behind the Inchicore End goal, by Dublin bus station, 10min from a hero around Inchicore. Athletic Richmond Park has a capacity of 5,340. Heuston station). Walk over the canal, More than half of that is seating, 1,800 taking Connolly Avenue to the end. It Opposite, arguably the best choice The pride of Inchicore, west Dublin, in the Main Stand nearest to Emmet veers left to meet Emmet Road, with pre- and post-match is Tom Tavey at St Patrick’s Athletic won the league Road. the ground opposite, tucked in behind No.118. More bar than traditional pub, at their first attempt in 1952 and have terraced housing. it features a large mural signalling St never been relegated since. One half is allocated to visiting Pat’s affection and, somewhat bizarrely, supporters, nearest the Shed End, in Tickets a framed programme and match ticket Often capable of stellar performances block A. If more space is required, say Tickets are sold during the week from the 1963 FA Cup Final. Three Irish in Europe – a 0-0 draw at Celtic in 1998 for the LUAS derby with Shamrock of the game from the office at 125 internationals – Dunne, Cantwell and stands out, plus more recent wins over Behind the 2013 win and other notable Rovers on the same light-rail line, away Emmet Road near the Richmond Giles – played for Manchester United teams from Sweden, Russia and Bosnia achievements at Richmond Park, both fans are placed behind the east goal, House pub, and on match night itself. that day although there’s no story & Herzegovina – St Pat’s are also the as a player and manager, too. The most vocal home support is in It’s €15 for adults, €10 for over-65s behind the display, discovered when last side from Dublin to lift the Irish title. serves as an exemplary figurehead at the St Pat’s half of the Main Stand and and students, €5 for accompanied clearing out some old junk.

liberoguide.com 9 IRELAND 2020 Shamrock Rovers www.liberoguide.com/shamrock-rovers SHAMROCK ROVERS SHAMROCK

find the kind of traditional pub that you would around Dalymount or St Pat’s.

Transport On a home-match week, it opens The main pre-match haunt is the bar Tallaght is at the end of one branch of noon-4pm. The club also distributes at the Maldron Hotel, Stir, accessed the LUAS red line, directly linked to online (https://shamrockrovers.ie/ through the restaurant of the same Heuston Station (30min journey time) match-tickets) on a match-by-match name, which has had the good grace and the bus station, Busáras (45min). basis. to create a Rovers area in one corner. Team line-ups from the 1940s and Shamrock Rovers against Dundalk before 33,000 at the Make sure the train is going to There’s pay-on-the-night general 1950s, pennants from games with Aviva. Tallaght and not Saggart, the other admission from a kiosk also behind Real Madrid and Hibernian, and a Shamrock Rovers are Ireland’s most branch – the line divides at Belgard the main stand at €15. Seniors and photo of Alex Del Piero in a hooped titled team. Rescued from dissolution The council-owned Tallaght consists shortly before. From , students are charged €10, under-14s shirt are all on display. by their fans who now own the club, of two stands, East and West along it’s a 2min walk round the corner to €5. The Hoops returned to their spiritual each sideline. Behind the goals, Busáras. Retail strips between the LUAS stop home of south Dublin, moved into the temporary seating can be installed Shops and the stadium contain chain outlets. new-build Tallaght Stadium and won for any showcase European fixture. Trains run every 5-15min until The Shamrock Rovers Megastore On Cookstown Way, the family-run back-to-back Irish titles. Capacity is otherwise an all-seated midnight, 11pm on Sun & bank (Mon-Sat noon-4pm) behind the main Blazin’ Grill is the nearest to the 6,000. holidays. stand carries home shirts, away ground, with a ‘Shamrockers Gather Rovers have been overshadowed by shirts, even third shirts, plus hooded Here’ sticker and the floodlights Dundalk, who bettered the Dublin Atmosphere is provided by the most From the Tallaght stop, head towards tops, scarves and hats. On match in view. Steaks and seafood are its club’s Europa League group-stage raucous home fans in the East Stand. The Square shopping centre – the nights, another outlet sets up at the stock-in-trade. Nearby, the more achievement of 2011. Away fans are allocated one side of stadium is straight ahead. car park end of the stadium. bar-like Aussie Outback is a BBQ the main West Stand, sections H-J spot serving monumental burgers In 2019, Rovers won their first major on the corner of Kiltipper Road and Tickets Bars and standard draught lagers. Spicy silverware for eight years, the FAI the dual carriageway, opposite the The ticket office is near the club shop Tallaght is a new-town suburb, all ho- Mexican eaterie Perios Grill has seats Cup, involving a heart-stopping finish Maldron Hotel. on Kiltipper Road, beside the car park. tels and shopping centres – you won’t outside in summer.

liberoguide.com 10 IRELAND 2020 Shelbourne FC www.liberoguide.com/shelbourne

Bars FC SHELBOURNE The two most popular pre-match pubs, by the bus stop on Drumcondra Road, are Fagan’s and Kennedy’s. In place for a century or more, in the family since 1961, homely Kennedy’s is a long-established pit stop for Shels and GAA fans. There’s a quality kitchen – slow-braised lamb shank, beer-battered fish – and rooms if you need. Nearer the bridge, Fagan’s is similarly storied – note the photo Nos.1 and 11 go from O’Connell Street of former Taoiseach Bertie Ahern (stop 278) north to Drumcondra. having drinks with the Clintons. Allow about 15min to reach Kennedy’s The food here is also top-notch, pub (Botanic Avenue, stop 19 on with steaks, burgers and curries. Drumcondra Road Lower). From there, cross the road, walk over the bridge Over the bridge, about 300 metres and turn right down Richmond Road. up from Richmond Road (alight at St Patrick’s College of Education, To bypass the Dublin traffic, take the two stops from Kennedy’s), the Cat train from Connolly main station and Cage at the corner of Church local rivals, Bohemians. The to Drumcondra (every 15-20min, Avenue is another landmark Shelbourne FC plan is for Shels to groundshare journey time 5min) – from there, pub gone gastro. In business with the Bohs from 2023. it’s a 7-8min walk up Drumcondra since 1690, it hosts live music It took six years and a heart-stopping Road Lower to Kennedy’s, or each night of the weekend. finish to a decisive league game at In the meantime, Shelbourne remain jump on a bus for two stops. , but Shelbourne FC have at Tolka Park, up in Drumcondra. The closest hostelry to the returned to the Premier Division. The One of the smallest grounds in the Tickets ground, on the stadium side of club who dominated the domestic division, Tolka Park only uses three Apart from season tickets, there the bridge, Millmount House game in the early 2000s all but of its four stands, the are no online sales. The ticket is quiet enough earlier on for a collapsed in complete financial End long deemed unsafe. window on Richmond Road opens game of pool, lively after dark. disarray in 2006. 45min before kick-off, general Home fans gather in the Drumcondra Transport admission €15, discounts €5-€10. Behind the Main Stand on Richmond Promotion in 2019 was followed Stand and in the Main Stand along From the city, the most frequent bus Road, the convivial Tolka Bar by the announcement of nearly Richmond Road, where the stadium service is the Nos.41, 41b, 41c and Shop invariably fills up pre- and post- €1 million of state investment in bar is located. Away fans are 41d from Abbey Street, Irish Life Mall On match days, a modest club match, practically providing reason the redevelopment of Dalymount allocated the Riverside Stand closest (stop 288), near Dublin’s main bus shop operates by the home alone to make your way all up Park, current home of Shelbourne’s to the narrow, winding Tolka. station of Busáras. Alternatively, bus Drumcondra Road stand. to Drumcondra in good time.

liberoguide.com 11 IRELAND 2020 Ballybofey www.liberoguide.com/ballybofey

Bonner’s There’s a taxi office (087 262 0446) BALLYBOFEY Corner Bar near the Villa Rose Hotel.

Bed Go Visit Donegal (govisitdonegal.com) has a database of accommodation across the county.

Ballybofey has two high-standard hotels. By the Finn, Jackson’s is a four-

Villa Rose with a heated indoor pool, sauna and gym, plus the Garden Restaurant. Nearby, the four-star Villa Rose also A new stadium is slowly being built has its own spa and restaurant, Fara’s. over the Finn in but it’s now more than ten years since Further along Main Street, Rockvale planning permission was granted. House offers wallet-friendly B&B digs. All six rooms are en-suite. Bearings Bus Éireann runs services to Bally- Beer bofey from Sligo (every 2hrs, 90min Anyone’s first port of call should be journey time, €12 single) and Derry Barrett’s, opposite the Villa Rose, an (hourly, 1hr journey time). Sligo has honest haunt for hard-drinking sports good connections with Dublin, with fans. hourly buses (4hr journey time) and represent County Donegal as a whole. pastimes, The Candystripes maintained regular trains (3hr journey time) but Further down Main Street, Harleys Ballybofey Way up in Ireland’s top left-hand corner, Premier Division status with an extra- there’s no way of getting back to the Cheers Bar likes a good party and puts Ballybofey rivals Derry in the North- time winner. capital via Sligo from Ballbofey after on DJs. Opposite Alexander’s store, J Few football fans outside Ireland know West Derby, one of the most colourful an evening game. Via Letterkenny, you McLaughlin’s is a regular local, handy where Ballybofey is – or why they in Irish football. Matters came to a head Still hosting top-flight football after can leave Ballybofey at 10.30pm and for a quick jar. might have to find it. Older Everton, at a 2003 relegation play-off. Derry had a play-off in 2019, Ballybofey – one reach Dublin at 5am but it means a 3hr Derby and Aberdeen supporters, been in the top tier since 1987 – Finn Main Street, one bus stop but no stopover. All bus connections between Behind its bright tangerine exterior, though, will remember the name of Harps were looking to rejoin the elite. train station – is, in fact, two towns in Dublin and Ballybofey (4-5hr journey Bonner’s Corner Bar shows live sport Finn Harps, generous opposition on An absurdly late equaliser from Kevin one. The river that divides Ballybofey time, €15) require one change, at and offers micro-brewed beers from random European adventures in the McHugh, later to join Derry, gave rise from neighbouring Stranorlar gives Letterkenny, Lifford or Donegal Abbey independent Bog Hopper from Muff. 1970s. to his infamous greyhound impression its name to Finn Harps. The capacity Hotel. in celebration, mocking the opposition. at dilapidated is roughly Nearby on Glenfin Street itself, The Harps are based in Ballybofey As inflatable sheep floated over Derry’s equivalent to the population of the Ballybofey bus stop is by McElhineys McKelvey’s is another live-match spot, but, as their badge suggests, Brandywell, a hint at Harps’ fans rural town it serves. store/Butt Hall Centre on Main Street. with DJs on Saturday nights.

liberoguide.com 12 IRELAND 2020 Finn Harps www.liberoguide.com/finn-harps

Finn Harps FINN HARPS

A long-lost romantic name on the European football scene, fan-owned Finn Harps are from Ballybofey, with a supporter base across County Donegal.

Though it’s been a while since the likes of Derby and Everton notched up double-digit aggregate scores against them, the Harps are still in the top flight. In November 2019, an extra-time win over Drogheda ensured the Donegal side another campaign in the Premier Division.

The setting for this victory was run- down Finn Park, the club’s home since before the glory days. It is hoped that later triumphs will take chargrilled burgers and steaks, and place at the new stadium being built framed photos from Finn Harps history over the river Finn at Stranorlar, around the large flat-screen TV. Ballybofey’s adjoining town that houses the local schools and Side opposite the main stand. Some Tickets Bars Further down, right by the ground, churches. home fans still like to occupy the The club has a simple policy of pay-on- With Finn Park so close to Main Street, the ever popular Barca Bar has been narrow section of open terracing at the-night from the gates on both Naven- and Ballybofey so compact, any of the serving Harps and away fans for years, Back in Ballybofey, Finn Park is a the Town End, backed by residential ny Street and Chestnut Road. It’s €12 half-dozen pubs and bars in town is a a lively, honest drinking haunt with short walk from Main Street, where housing. in, €10 for seniors and students, €5 for handy stroll pre- and post-match. occasional live acts and a superfriendly the buses come in. The ground is secondary pupils and €3 for under-12s. staff. effectively one main stand, partly Transport If you’d like a seat, then it’s an extra €3 The two nearest Finn Park, on Navenny filled with seating, allocated to all Buses from Letterkenny, Donegal, Sligo once you’re inside. Street itself, are also the most convivial A visit to Finn Park is not complete spectators except in cases such as and Derry pull in at McElhineys store/ choices. The first one you come to, without sampling its famous soup, the derby with Derry or any play- Butt Hall Centre on Main Street. Head Shop Heeney’s U Drop Inn, has been family- dispensed from beside the clubhouse off game. Around the main stand for the Villa Rose Hotel then turn next A modest selection of blue-and-white run for the best part of 60 years. Today by the main stand. There’s more are open sides – if segregation is left down Navenny Street. The ground souvenirs is available from the portak- Michael runs a tidy but eminently hot food available at the Gantry Side required, then away fans stand in the is about 200 yards on the left. abin outlet near the home Town End on friendly ship, part bar, part restaurant, – handy for away fans exposed to the uncovered River End and/or Gantry match nights. with an extensive menu featuring elements.

liberoguide.com 13 IRELAND 2020 Cork www.liberoguide.com/cork

Gothenburg, CSKA Kyiv have all left CORK Cork without a win.

Bearings Cork Airport is 6.5km (four miles) south of the city. Bus Éireann Nos.226 and 226A run every 30min to Parnell Place station in town (lowest fare €5 single online), jour- ney time 30min. They also stop at Evergreen Road, near and terminate at Kent Station, Cork’s train hub.

The hourly train from Dublin Heuston takes 2hr 30-45min, cheapest online single €20. The last one back is at 8.20pm – and it’s not direct. There’s a bus every 2hrs (journey time 3hr 45min, cheapest online single €13) – the last one back With views over another side of the Nearby Costigan’s has a covered is 6pm. Lee, the Imperial Hotel combines smoking area with a TV showing centuries of tradition with a quality spa live games – plus plenty of other Cork Taxi (+353 21 4 27 22 22) is a and upscale dining. screens. reliable local firm. eight clubs in all, including Cork City, Convenient for the bus station, Jurys Also traditional, Jim Cashman’s Cork formed in 1984, Irish champions in Bed Inn is reliably upper mid-range. is located on the edge of Cork’s 2017 and runners-up behind Dundalk Cork’s hotels are clustered near the Huguenot Quarter, close to a Ireland’s second city of Cork has the last four of five seasons. river, in the city centre. The Gresham Beer selection of decent restaurants. long been successful at national level Metropole is a cut above, a four-star With plenty of tourists and students, in and Gaelic football but its City have embraced professionalism, with access to a pool, sauna and gym. Cork is awash with pubs and bars On the north side of town, soccer history is one of short-lived summer football and all-seated Just on the other side of MacCurtain showing sports. Almost all, though, convenient for the train station, The clubs wresting occasional silverware spectatorship. It hasn’t always been Street, the Hotel Isaacs Cork is a will prioritise a Gaelic football game Shelbourne is a handy option with from the clutches of Dublin. smooth, with complex shenanigans handy mid-range option with equal (if over English Premier League action all-day TV sport and food. needed to extricate the club from paid) access to a health centre. Nearby, – with the welcome exception of SoHo, There has been a team from Cork in financial disaster in 2010, but the the Brú is a contemporary hostel with a contemporary spot with a panoramic Busy in term-time, the student- the League of Ireland almost every Leesiders have been exemplary private rooms as well as dorms, a hop- rooftop deck and terrace overlooking friendly Washington Inn also brings season since its inauguration in the representatives of Irish football ping little bar that shows big-screen the main drag of Grand Parade. SoHo in punters with its HD big-screen TV early 1920s. But this has involved in Europe. Bayern Munich, IFK sports and live music most nights. also sells tickets for Cork City games. sports action.

liberoguide.com 14 IRELAND 2020 Cork City www.liberoguide.com/cork-city

supporters have a separate outlet by

the St Anne’s Park entrance. CITY CORK

There’s an across-the-board pricing system of €15, €10 for under-18s, €5 for under-13s and seniors.

Shops Souvenirs are sold at the club shop in the Douglas Village Shopping Centre. There’s also a match-night outlet at the Curragh Road end of the ground.

Bars There’s a handful of pubs along Evergreen Road a reasonably short stroll to the ground.

all but bankrupt, City returned and within From the city centre, and stopping The party-centric Evergreen Bar at a decade began to develop it. Now all- closer, the No.203 runs every 15-30min No.35 shows TV football while nearer seated, Turners Cross comprises four to Curragh Road (Turners Cross), the ground, the Mountain Bar is a stands: Donie Forde houses the press and journey time 15min. Buses leave from St traditional spot with horse racing its family sections, opposite the Derrynane Patrick’s Street, near the Father Mathew focus. Road Stand, where visiting fans are statue, by Marks & Spencer. In 2017, Cork gained revenge, winning allocated two sections nearest the St Closer still at No.10, The Beer Garden Cork City the title with a 0-0 draw in front of nearly Anne’s End. Tickets has the best selection of beers, 6,000 home fans. Advance tickets are available at the club decent, good-value food and a pool League champions in 2017, runners-up Curragh Road, built in 2007 on The Shed shop in the Douglas Village Shopping table. It’s also an outlet for match from 2014 to 2016 and again in 2018, All-seated and all-covered, Turners terrace, remains home to the Rebel Army. Centre on the outskirts of town, as well tickets. Cork City are one of the biggest clubs in Cross is the most impressive soccer as fro mthe SoHo bar/restaurant on Ireland in terms of support, professional stadium in Ireland outside Dublin. A Capacity is 6,900. Grand Parade and The Beer Garden pub Now smart and urban, the Turners status and infrastructure. sports ground since the 1890s, ‘The at Turners Cross. Cross Tavern shows TV matches and Cross’ was home to Cork Celtic until the Transport offers upscale pub food. In 2015, fan-owned Cork attracted the late 1970s before Cork City took it over Turners Cross is too far to walk from Tickets are also distributed online highest average league gate, boosted in 1986. either Kent rail or Parnell Place bus through Ticketmaster (www. Right by the ground, between the by a near 7,000 crowd for the visit of stations. Bus Nos.226 and 226A that ticketmaster.ie). main Donie Forde Stand and home Dundalk, their nearest provincial rivals Not considered part of the ambitious run between the two every 30min call end on the Curragh Road, the in terms of attendances and recent club’s future, it was abandoned for at Evergreen Road, reasonably close to On the day, ticket huts open at the main Horseshoe Inn is invariably packed on silverware. unloved Bishopstown in 1993. By 1996, Turners Cross stadium. entrance on the Curragh Road. Visiting match nights.

liberoguide.com 15 IRELAND 2020 Derry www.liberoguide.com/Derry

The Lyric DERRY

The waterfront Buscentre is in town by Saddler’s House on Great James the Peace Bridge, the same side of the Street is convenient, comfortable and river as the stadium. The train station affordable. Breakfast is a feast. is across the Foyle. The hourly service from Belfast (£12.50) takes 2hrs. Beer Pubs surround the Richmond Centre Belfast International Airport is 92km mall. Football is screened in one of the (57 miles) away. Take Ulsterbus three bars that comprise the historic No.300a to the Europa Buscentre River Inn, revamped in 2016. Belfast then Translink Goldline 212 to Derry the Buscentre in Derry, overall journey On the other side of the mall, the time around 3hrs. Bentley is a six-bar complex, one that shows matches. Formerly the Translink Goldline Bus X3/X4 runs Diamond Hotel, where Institute FC Derry Football has been played here since Bearings from Dublin Busáras to Derry (£11) were formed in 1905, Granny Annies 1900. Derry City moved in shortly Derry has its own airport 11km (7 seven times a day via Dublin Airport, has revived this prominent space with Despite overwhelming difficulties, after their foundation in 1928. miles) north-east of town. Currently journey time 4hrs. live music, TV sport and communal football has survived, in fact thrived, Loganair and Ryanair provide links banter. in Derry, second city of Northern Ninety years later, and a with London Stansted, Liverpool, Bed Ireland. After a gap of 13 long years 7,700-capacity Brandywell is Manchester and Scotland. A City Cabs Visit Derry (visitderry.com) has a For an old-school community pub, out of the senior game, Derry City attracting gates of 3,000-plus. The taxi (+44 28 7126 4466) costs £11 into hotel database with reservations via The Derby on Great James Street is a have been competing with teams stadium has also taken the name of town. booking.com. revered spot with TV football. from south of the border in the former club captain Ryan McBride, League of Ireland since 1985. who died suddenly in 2017. Goldline Express bus No.234 runs The four-star Maldron is close to the The Oakgrove Bar (88 Bishop Street) every 2hrs to the Buscentre in town, bus station, with 90 rooms, a gym has TV sport, live music and sells After a £7 million redevelopment, The ground also hosts home games journey time 30min. Other bus and sauna. Its Lyric bar shows TV tickets for Derry games. City’s Brandywell Stadium, close to of Institute FC, promoted from journeys require a 10min walk to football. Also nearby is superior B&B landmarks such as the Free Derry ’s second tier in Longfield, Eglinton, where you can Townhouse No.8. Waterfront four-star Across the Foyle, near the train station, Corner and the Bloody Sunday 2018 to compete in the top division pick up the Nos.143 or 152, run by City Hotel Derry, with a pool and gym, the Glen Bar (28 Dungiven Road) Monument, reopened in 2018. north of the border. Ulsterbus. offers attractive weekend breaks. shows games on two big screens.

liberoguide.com 16 IRELAND 2020 Derry City www.liberoguide.com/derry-city

Corner. You’ll see the floodlights CITY DERRY ahead.

Tickets

The club sells tickets online (derrycityfc.net/online-ticketing) to both home and away fans and distribute through outlets around town such as the Oakgrove Bar (88 Bishop Street).

On match nights, tickets are sold from The other major change to the ground the Long Tower Youth Club on Lecky since its redevelopment in 2017 has Road, by the stadium car park, past been in its name, the Ryan McBride the greyhound track. Brandywell Stadium commemorating the club captain who died suddenly Prices are set at £15, £12 for seniors that same year. and students, £4 (not available online) for 5-15s, under-5s free. Away fans enter through the turnstiles on Brandywell Avenue to Shop Blocks A and B of the East Stand, A basic range of red-and-white facing the main one. merchandise is sold from a hut by the main stand on match nights. Derry City Derry Celtic played here in the Large crowds greeted the return of Transport 1890s. Derry Celtic moved across football to the Brandywell in 1985, If you’re coming in by train, turn right Bars Derry City are a club apart. The to the Brandywell in 1900, before Derry having joined the League of out of the station, along the river to Sport-focused bars near the ground Candystripes of the Brandywell have folding in 1913. Newly founded Derry Ireland south of the border. the bridge, then left at the roundabout include the Brandywell Sports Bar been crowned champions on both City moved in 15 years later. up Abercorn Road. As it veers right, where Brandywell Road meets Lecky sides of the border, their acceptance The treble win of 1989, another you’ll see the floodlights ahead. Allow Road and, nearby, The Bluebell Bar at into the League of Ireland in 1985 With the Brandywell close to chilling league title in 1997, FAI Cup 15 minutes altogether. 130 Lecky Road. Slightly further away, coming 20 years after winning the title scenes of civil unrest during The victories and high-place finishes other Candystripe haunts include the in the North. Troubles, not least the Bloody have brought the likes of Benfica, It’s about the same from the bus Celtic Bar, the other side of Celtic Sunday massacre in 1972, Derry Gothenburg and Paris Saint- station – you won’t have to cross the Park where Stanleys Walk meets the The ground sits near the Bogside, next City found themselves forced to play Germain to the Brandywell, recently river but cut through town. Head for end of Elmwood Street and, behind to , home of Derry’s GAA home games in Coleraine from 1971, equipped with 3G artificial pitch The Diamond, right down Butcher it, Mary B’s at 42 Elmwood Terrace, team but also the first to stage soccer before being reduced to Saturday- and a new main stand, expanding Street by the Maldon Hotel, then left where Lone Moor Road meets Blighs in town when St Colomb’s Court and morning football for 13 years. capacity to 7,700. down Fahan Street, past Free Derry Lane.

liberoguide.com 17 IRELAND 2020 Dundalk www.liberoguide.com/dundalk

Welcome to DUNDALK Dundalk

Dundalk town centre is compact. If you need a taxi, call Sevens on 042 93 77777.

Bed Dundalk Tourist Office has details of Liverpool in major European fixtures. local hotels and B&Bs at louthholidays. Dundalk With Dundalk now forging ahead in com. Europe further than any Irish team Halfway between Dublin and Belfast, before them, more and more foreign Close to , across Beer Craft brews are also served at The Dundalk is Ireland’s soccer town. visitors will be taking the convivial Carrickmacross Road, the Innisfree Anne Street and Park Street are Bar Tender that recently celebrated While the rest of the Republic goes in train journey up the coast from Dublin Guest House offers comfortable rooms lined with pubs and bars. From the its tenth anniversary. Nearby stands M for Gaelic football, hurling and rugby, Connolly station. in an Edwardian townhouse. railway station end, Jockeys focuses Courtney’s, an old-school pub barely Dundalk displays the lilywhite shirts on racing but has a back room for changed since the 1800s. of its local soccer team across town. Bearings On the town centre side of the train football. Quality home-made food is Barber shops, grocery stores and pubs From Dublin airport, an hourly Bus Éire- station, Glen Gat House is another another bonus. Across the road, the Corner sports bar Jimmy’s proudly bear the three mythical martlets of ann service takes 1hr 15min to reach welcoming and affordable lodging while Big House/McGuinness also goes big displays Dundalk shirts in the current Irish champions Dundalk FC. Dundalk’s Long Walk station (online round the corner, the Lismar is a B&B on TV sport – though sadly its beer windows. On the other side of the €9 single/€13 return), right by central with serviced apartments. signs (Harp, Macardles) are nods to a road, the Phoenix features traditional The Lilywhites were the first to break Market Square. moribund local industry. music. Below the Hotel Imperial, the capital’s monopoly on the domestic The main hotel in the town centre is the Parkes Bar is still regular haunt for game, and are now Ireland’s most titled The train from Dublin Connolly runs old-school Imperial, recently put up for On the same side, popular sports-watching students – though any club outside Dublin. every 1-2hrs, journey time 1hr, online sale at €1 million-plus but currently still Brubakers is more bar-like and hotel sale might change this. single €20, online return €30. Dundalk accepting guests in its 50 rooms and keeps longer hours. Alongside, Dundalk’s Oriel Park is considered (Clarke) station is a short walk from Parkes sports bar downstairs. If you’re Russell’s Saloon is a tasteful revamp In a quieter part of the town centre, the Home of Football. This venerable Oriel Park – Long Walk bus terminus is barhopping along Park Street, you of a much-loved old bar, with craft McKeowns is a great spot for sports ground once hosted Celtic, Spurs and around 15min. couldn’t be better placed. and German beers. and communal imbibery.

liberoguide.com 18 IRELAND 2020 Dundalk FC www.liberoguide.com/dundalk-fc DUNDALK FC DUNDALK

Bars Kennedy’s, aka the Railway Bar, has been in place for generations. Set at the junction of station walkway Dundalk FC While staging major European and Carrickmacross Road, it has fixtures in Dublin – 30,000 witnessed been modernised by the current Dundalk FC have boldly gone where the 2016 Champions League play-off Market Square, past the pubs of Park management, and is now a comfortable no other Irish team has gone before. with at the Aviva – Street and Anne Street, then towards and spacious place to watch the game Until 2018, ambitious young manager Dundalk consider revered Oriel Park the train station from the roundabout. on the big screen, warm yourself by one Stephen Kenny had transformed the as the Home of Football. of two fires and tuck into a home-made Lilywhites. His former assistant then Tickets meal – Dundalk manager Stephen led Dundalk to the double in 2019. Since the much-needed 2005 Cash-only tickets are available on the Kenny is a regular diner. revamp, capacity is 4,500, 3,000 day at the turnstiles on Carrickmacross Astonishing results in both seated in the stands facing each Road, €20 (€15 discounts) for the A photo of his team is posted by the European competitions in 2016 other across a FieldTurf artificial Main Stand, €15 (€5-€10) elsewhere. bar, lined with taps of Peroni, Carlsberg took the Irish champions to within pitch. The Main Stand is nearest Although there are no online sales, and Hop House 13 lager. Old prints of touching distance of potential Carrickmacross Road with turnstiles advance purchase is usually available in Dundalk also feature. A beer garden Champions League match-ups with for home and away fans, visiting the week running up to match day. opens in summer. Barcelona, Real Madrid or Juventus. supporters accessing standing Transport The subsequent win and draw and seating places through the Oriel Park is less than ten minutes from Shop At the ground, the Lilywhite Lounge in the group stage of the Europa gate furthest from town. The South Dundalk (Clarke) train station – turn A merchandise outlet opens on match under the Main Stand and Enda McGuill League represent unprecedented Side, aka The Shed, has also covered right up to Kennedy’s and the main road, days below the town end of the Main Suite open on match days and for achievements for any League of seating. Oriel Park now meets UEFA then right again. The stadium is on the Stand, with items such as Jim Murphy’s special occasions. Drinks are also Ireland club. Just after taking Zenit requirements for an overall 3,000 same side of the road as the pub, past recently published Dundalk miscellany served at the Town Bar outlet by the St Petersburg to the wire, Dundalk within any given ground. There are also the petrol station. Those arriving by bus ‘C’Mon the Town’ among the replica merchandise shop at the station end of won a third straight Irish title in 2017. standing places at each end. to the Long Walk should head towards shirts, scarves and hats. the Main Stand.

liberoguide.com 19 IRELAND 2020 Sligo www.liberoguide.com/sligo SLIGO

and the N4 dual carriageway that links with the M4 motorway and the M50 around Dublin. You arrive south of the river Garavogue, a short walk to the town centre and even shorter to the Showgrounds. Six buses run daily from Dublin (4hrs, €14 single). If you’ve come for an evening kick-off, Football was first played here at there’s a service back at 1am. The Sligo Forthill Park in the 1890s between train from Dublin Connolly is quicker sauna, and the Orient Express bar. To carry the night on, cross the teams of British Army soldiers (3hrs) but more expensive, cheapest The family-run Railway Hostel offers footbridge over the river to the Facing out to the Atlantic from its stationed nearby. There are still advance singles €18, regular price dorm beds, twins and doubles. Garavogue Bar, Sligo’s prime party vantage point on Ireland’s west coast, pitches there today. After watching around €25. The last service back is spot, with big-screen sport as well as the county town of Sligo has long these early games, locals formed 7pm, the first in the morning 7am. In the town centre, the newly DJs, live acts and cocktails. flown the flag for football rather than Junior teams such as Sligo Town and renovated Sligo City Hotel encourages rugby or GAA – surfing is also a major Sligo Blues. For a cab call Sligo Taxis on 086 121 football-weekend stays with its Don’t leave Sligo without visiting activity these days. 9111. Quays bar/restaurant. Nearby chic, Hargadon’s, part pub, part wine store, In 1928, Town and Blues became the contemporary Glasshouse, lapped part Michelin-praised restaurant, all Run as a people’s co-operative, Sligo Reds of Sligo Rovers, nicknamed Bed by the Garavogue, offers cocktails in dark wood and dating back to 1868. Rovers have a fan base that extends thereafter as The Bit o’Red, in fact. Six Sligo Tourism (www.sligotourism.ie) has the upper-floor View Bar and award- Alongside on O’Connell Street, Tricky across the North West and beyond. years later they joined the League of a database of local accommodation. winning cuisine. McGarrigle’s is a local focal point for Support at the age-old Showgrounds, Ireland – in 1937 they became the first music. the club’s home since its foundation, club from outside Leinster to win it. The best-located lodging for the Beer is colourful and choreographed, visual Showgrounds is the landmark four- Cavernous riverside Fiddler’s Creek is Round the corner on Wine Street, The and vocal. It will have impressed visitors Bearings star Great Southern Hotel, a classic the main Rovers bar in Sligo, big on TV Swagman is football-friendly and late- from Trondheim and Trnava, here for Sligo’s train and bus stations are at former railway hotel by the bus and football, live entertainment and home- opening, with a beer garden and the European fixtures relatively recently. the junction of Lord Edward Street train stations, with a pool, gym and made food at its adjoining restaurant. occasional BBQ. Craft brews, too.

liberoguide.com 20 IRELAND 2020 Sligo Rovers www.liberoguide.com/sligo-rovers

Showgrounds ROVERS SLIGO

to a Ryder Cup bib signed by Paul McGinley.

Rafferty’s, the station bar opposite the bus ramp, is fine to slake a post- journey thirst, though it might be worth holding out until O’Neills sports bar Things have calmed down since – at the corner of Wolfe Tone Street and Sligo Rovers though not, of course, in the Jinks Church Hill. Around a large main bar Avenue Stand, half a riot of red created and cosier lounge with a pool table, Community-run Sligo Rovers have a by the Forza Rovers ultras, half Street, walk up Wolfe Tone Street, Shop no position is too much of a stretch fan culture second to none in Ireland. competing away support. Opposite, the turn right at O’Neill’s and continue up As you enter through the turnstiles, to clock a TV screen with Sky Sports Rewarded in 2012 and 2013 with a main stand is similarly covered and all- Church Hill. The ground is five minutes you’ll see a match-day shop to your News on stream. Bonus points for the league title and FAI Cup, these fans seated. At the Volkswagen-sponsored ahead. Don’t approach via Lord Edward left, stocking replica shirts, scarves Mona Lisa clad in Rovers scarf. provide the venerable Showgrounds Railway End, a further 1,300 open seats Street – this sends you round the and sundry souvenirs. with colourful displays in the club’s brings the total to 4,000. Beyond tower houses into the Treacy housing estate With no alcohol at the ground, Mooneys signature red. the peaks of Benbulbin – you’re in Sligo before re-emerging further up Church Bars is the designated and thankfully country. Hill at Mooneys bar. If not rushed for time before kick-off, spacious supporters’ bar, just past the Rovers, aka The Bit o’Red, were cross the busy N4 dual carriage- turnstiles on Church Hill. A treasure galvanised in 2012 by ex-QPR defender The Showgrounds are three-sided Tickets way to the left of the station exit trove of signed jerseys, scarves, . A full house here of – the former home Shed End is now an Advance purchase is usually for for Donaghy’s, the bar attached to pennants, like any good Irish pub, it 5,600 saw his side beat St Pat’s to lift open space. European matches and title deciders. award-winning restaurant Coach Lane. features an old bike hanging from the Sligo’s first Irish title for 35 years. A Pay cash at the turnstiles on Church Plastered in battered bric-à-brac, old ceiling. Waiting at the bar allows you year later, a heartstopping climax to the Transport Hill – separate for home and away fans. Bovril and Colman’s Mustard signs, a to brush up on Rovers history from FAI Cup final saw Sligo lead Drogheda The Showgrounds are near Sligo’s train Admission is €15, €10 for seniors and Rovers scarf here and there for good the newspaper murals painted on the 2-1, get pegged to 2-2 then win 3-2. and bus stations. Cross Lord Edward students, €5 for under-12s. measure, the bar gives pride of place wall.

liberoguide.com 21 IRELAND 2020 Waterford www.liberoguide.com/waterford

Waterford WATERFORD

The former soccer stronghold of Waterford all but welcomed the return of European football in 2019 after an absence of more than 30 years. Promoted to the Premier Division in 2017, flagship club Waterford FC claimed a fourth-place slot in 2018 to enter the Europa League only to be range Treacys comes with a spa, gym ruled out on a technicality. and heated pool.

For ex-Ireland U-21 international Lee On Bridge Street, the Fitzwilton is a Power, this major turnaround still contemporary choice. confirms the faith he showed when taking over the moribund club in late Beer 2016. Restoring the original name of Waterford has scores of drinking spots. Waterford FC, Power understood the On O’Connell Street, quality pubs pride felt by many older fans in the attract a sensible but hard-drinking club that won six League of Ireland fraternity. There, the tremendous titles in eight seasons, between 1966 Tullys offers a buzzy contrast to the and 1973. Local buses in Waterford run on the Nearby, a row of B&Bs on the main indelibly old-school Thomas Maher Ireland-wide Leap Card system (€10 road towards down includes The opposite. Bearings including €5 travel credit), €1.68 Hazelbrook, The Vee and St Albans. Dublin Airport is 175km (109 miles) deducted per journey, touch in when you The Hub is both the name of an Irish away. From Zone 11 Stop 2, a direct board – or pay the driver around €2 cash. Near pre-match pub Norris’s, The drinkerie with TV football, and the Bus Éireann Expressway coach takes Barley Field (35-36 Barrack Street) Bermuda Triangle of bars nearby, 3hrs to Waterford bus station (every Waterford Taxis (+353 51 33 10 33) comprises 21 guestrooms and a where John and Parnell Streets cross. 2hrs, €20). The quicker service (2hr have their own app and online booking, friendly bar. On main Parnell Street Here the late-opening Kazbar offers 45min) is less frequent. including airport transfers. leading to the stadium, the upper TV sport and live music, while the mid-range Tower Hotel is also a Market Bar (11 John Street) opposite is The train from Dublin Heuston to Bed leisure centre, with a pool, gym and a mecca to rock’s rich tapestry. Waterford Plunkett takes 2hrs, online Visit Waterford (visitwaterford.com) sauna. Nearer the bridge, Dooley’s has been tickets €16. Once arrived, walk over has a hotel database. in the same family for 80 years. Nearby, The best football bar in town is the bridge to town. Waterford bus The main hub of hotels is across from affordable Sal’s is ideal for a drinking Alfie’s, just up Bridge Street over to station is by the city centre but a long Across the roundabout from the the bus station, where the historic weekend – pub downstairs, hearty Ballybricken. The decor offers a lesson walk to the stadium – use public ground, the Travelodge Waterford four-star Granville Hotel is one of breakfast one floor up. The Anchorage in local football history, revered Irish transport or a taxi. offers free parking. Ireland’s oldest. is also good value. Alongside, mid- internationals all depicted and framed.

liberoguide.com 22 IRELAND 2020 Waterford FC www.liberoguide.com/waterford-fc WATERFORD FC

the main entrance opening just over Waterford FC an hour before kick-off. There’s an all-in-one price of €15, €10 Enjoying their best form since the for students and seniors, €5 for under- 1970s, Waterford FC have also 14s. reenergised their loyal fan base. Shop Behind this long-needed revival is To the left of the main stand as you owner/chairman Lee Power, who approach from the main entrance, the played in the same promising Ireland main match-day shop is a hut just large U-21 side as the man he quickly enough for a rail of replica shirts in blue, appointed as his Director of Football, away tops of yellow-and-blue stripes. . accoutrements of jumping and Up to 800 away fans can be allocated 30min (from bay 7/8 by the bus throwing events – there are no ends half the Tramore Road Stand, lively for shelter) and takes 10min. The nearest Bars Relegated in 1989, the then named as such, just empty spaces. the visits of Cork City and the bigger stop is the Kilbarry Centre behind There are no pubs near the ground. Fans Waterford United moved to the newly clubs from Dublin. the ground. If you’re on main Parnell gather at Norris’s Bar where Barrack built municipal Regional Sports Blues fans generate a noisy Street in town, jump on any Cork- Street, Slievekeale Road and Morrison’s Centre in 1993, leaving former ground atmosphere in Block E at one end of In May 2019 the RSC co-hosted the bound bus and touch in with your Road meet. Of its two bars, one is to the greyhounds. the main stand on Cork Road. From its European U-17 Championships. Later Leap card – ask the driver to let you covered in Waterford sports memorabilia. unveiling in 1993 until 2008, this old- that summer, it should have witnessed off by the RSC. Stuck out way south-west of town school grandstand with its distinctive Waterford’s return to European football, The only outlet near the stadium is on the old main road to Cork, glass windshields held the stadium’s only to be ruled out on a technicality. Tickets Rockin’ Joes aka Shake Dog, a burger- the RSC is one of Ireland’s best entire seating capacity of 1,300. With The club now has online purchase and-shakes joint done up like an grounds despite its obvious use as the opening of the lower but longer Transport (waterfordfc.ie/tickets) for all American diner, on the main road by the an athletics stadium. Separating Tramore Road Stand, this figure The stadium is way south-west of upcoming home games. Travelodge hotel. its two facing sideline stands rose to over 3,000, allowing for the town and too far to walk. The main from the football action, a running accommodation of 5,500 spectators, service there is the No.360 which Admission is otherwise a simple There’s no bar at the ground, only hot track is complemented by all the including standing ones. leaves Waterford bus station every cash-only affair, the ticket office by and soft drinks, and filled rolls.

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