NO-COOK SUMMER RECIPES

PLANTS THAT CAN , TAKE TH HE

A CHARLESTON TAGE MAKEOVER II CONTENTS II

42 Beauty Secrets 114 Cooking with Virginia Departments We celebrate the colorful Squash is in season and elegance of a stylish incredibly versatile. Georgia grandmother. 120 What Can I Bring? COLUMNS 31 The Grumpy Gardener Serve a refreshing chilled Our garden expert TRAVEL & CULTURE corn soup as an appetizer. 12 Life @ Southern Living alleviates growing pains. 122 One and Done 130 Southern Journal 35 Southern Tails 45 Road Trip Chicken and pasta give What you need to know The spring-fed waters of the flavors of caprese HOME & GARDEN before taking your dog ' salad a new spin. on a camping trip are a magnet for outdoor 15 Before & After 124 Save Room adventurers. Charleston, South 36 Around the Garden Festive cheesecake bars Carolina, designer Buff A seasonal guide for 126 Cooking School Coles proves that a small, green thumbs THE SL KITCHEN Tips from the South's old cottage is worth a most trusted kitchen second look. BEAUTY & STYLE 101 Quick-Fix 24 Homegrown Make a splash with five 39 Instant Classic no-fuss seafood dinners. South Carolinian Rodger ON THE COVER Winn serves up heirloom One off-the-shoulder ll2 Healthy in a Hurry Photograph by lain Bagwell tomatoes and history at dress, three weekend­ Sizzling steak tacos with Prop Styling by Mindi Shapiro Levine his annual garden party. worthy looks a fast, foolproof salsa Fo od Styling by Torie Cox

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JULY 20 17 / SOUTHER NLI V ING. COM " , VEL ICULTUIE YOUR GUIDE TO THE SOUTH NOW '. o TRAVEL & CULTURE

Clockwise from top: Enjoy a riverside stay at the Gruene Mansion Inn. At the Gristmill in Gruene. signs advise "No dancing on the table with spurs."

The river is diVided into the Upper and Lower Guadalupe. In between, a dam captures river water to create a scenic playground called . The upper portion sloshes over low, rocky falls, the intensity of which is determined by rainfalL Dam-controlled flows provide more consistent water and rich trout fishing on the lower stretch of river below Canyon Lal<:e. "We went down River Road on ORDERED BY LIMESTONE bluffs and stitched to the soil with gnarled Fourth of July weekend last summer," cypress roots, the Guadalupe River has come to symbolize the Hill Country, says local Judi Temple. "There were curling through this part of Texas like the lifeline on the palm of your hand. just thousands of people down there Beyond the 10 %-mile stretch of River Road near New Braunfels, a camping and barbecuing and tubing, tubing and paddling mecca, the river winds from Kerr County past city and I thought, 'This is such a vital part parklands, private ranches, state park grounds, and farm-to-market road of the : " Temple and , crossings, finally pouring itself out near Seadrift, Texas. "The top of the her husband, Lee, own a century-old Guadalupe watershed is at 2,400 feet, and it drops from there to the Gulf," says dance hall in Kendalia, just one of the Susan Sander, naturalist at the nonprofit Riverside Nature Center in Kerrville. "It's small towns that offer access to the about 400 river miles, including all the wiggles." Guadalupe and flourish beside it.

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In 1689, a Spanish explorer named (that's Texas speak for brewhouses) all "This river with a the river, but people still debate how along the river. A favorite is River Road to pronounce it. Newcomers might Ice House in New Braunfels, which has Spanish name winds say "Gua-da-LOOP"; those going for a a pavilion for live music. through Texas hills Spanish inflection say "Gua-da-LOO­ Longtime kayaking guide Stacey steeped in German pay." But Hill Country natives insist on Banta, whose ancestors paddled the heritage." "Gua-da-LOO-pee"-or simply "the river in the 1820s, knows it better than Guad." In any case, this river with a most. "It's easy to reach from Spanish name winds through Texas and Austin, but most of it still has the out on the Upper Guadalupe: "You're out, hills steeped in German heritage, a gift small-town vibe," says Banta, owner of you're remote, yet you're 45 minutes of the settlers who flooded here in the Texas Pack & Paddle (meetup.comltexas from town." mid-1800s. (There's a lot of bratwurst packnpadd/e). She prefers to take people Go with a guid~ on this part of the and bock consumed in these parts.) river, as it has just a few rural access Today, the Guadalupe attracts lots of points. Feeling more adventurous? tubers, kayakers, and hikers along with Try nonprofit American Whltewater's day-trippers headed to downtowns and recommendation: a 7.8-mile trek from dance halls, vineyards and icehouses Bergheim (Farm Road 3351) to Guadalupe River State Park. "In Texas, we don't have a whole lot of white water," Banta says, estimating there are just a few spots of easier Class 1 and Class 2 rapids between the town of Comfort and the Rebecca Creek Road crossing. "You can walk

Clockwise from top: Beneath an iconic water tower in New Braunfels' Gruene Historic District, you'll find live music and danCing at Gruene Ha ll, Texas' oldest continuously operating dance ha ll.

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around them, or, if you don't mind Kerrville runs along the Guadalupe an involuntary swim, it's less than and connects city parks with an knee-deep if you fallout," she says. entrance at the Riverside Nature The Lower Guad near New Center (riuersidenaturecenter.org). Braunfels can feel crowded, teeming In Kerrville, dams form pretty with tubers and an often raucous lakes from the river (kerruilletexas college crowd. Elizabeth and Elliot cub. com). Dine waterside at 1011 Ross of San Antonio tried tubing Bistro. Then giddyap to The Museum for the first time last summer. Both of Western ArHor a photo op at the physicians in their mid-thirties, they buclctng bronco statue. Downriver at recommend going early on weekend Sister Creek Vineyards in Sisterdale, mornings to avoid afternoon partyers sip wines in a rustic, barnlike setting. and long lines at outfitters such as Then head to Kendalia Halle, the Rockin' R River Rides (rockinr.com), 1903 dance hall now owned by the which provides your tube as well as Temples. It's reservation only, so transportation at the end of your float. you're guaranteed a table, barbecue On land, explore riverside trails tacos, and a spot on the dance floor. at Guadalupe River State Park and New Braunfels' Gruene (pro­ its Bauer Unit, an old homestead (tpwd nounced "green") Historic District is .texas.gou). Or hike the Verada Real the heart of the Lower Guad (gruene wallctng trail along the Canyon Dam texas. com). Dine at the Gristmill at Overlook Park (wildtexas.com), beneath the iconic Gruene water operated by the U.S. Army Corps of tower. Signs at the restaurant Engineers. An easier paved path for admonish "No qancing on the table hikers and bikers, the River Trail in with spurs:' But that's okay: You can

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/ ' Clockwise from top: At Huisache Grill in New Braunfels. enjoy dishes like the Charbroiled . Lamb Burger with house-made sweet potato wedges. plus Texas-friendly service.

dance later at Gruene Hall next door (gruenehall.com) . . Stay at Gruene Mansion Inn bed­ and-breakfast, the 1872 residence of community founder Henry D. Gruene. which has 31 rooms in the mansion and its outbuildings. some with river views (gruenemansioninn.cQm). For a quieter stay, choose River Road Treehouses, gussied-up cabins secured to tall with a contemporary vibe, to Riverbend Huisache Grill-an upscale bistro-and hardwood trees (riuerroadcabins.com). Cabins, located near the park's tubing Alph;e Haus Restaurant. with sophisti­ Located in New Braunfels proper, attraction, The Falls (schlitterb~An.com). cated Bavarian fare, including a variety Schlitterbahn Waterpark & Resort In downtown New Braunfels, historic of schnitzels. Stop outside New Braunfels beckons with ~lides , rides, and lazy-river buildings recall more German heritage at the family-run Dry Coma I Creek fun, powered by the waters of the Carnal (innewbraun!e!s.com). The 150 ~year-old Vineyards, another testament to the River, which feeds into the Guadalupe. Henne Hardware satisfies fans of sturdy creative businesses that the fertile The park plays on the region's German rope and tools; Saints Peter and Paul Guadalupe River Basin has inspired. heritage. ("Schlitterbahn" itself means Catholic Church was built in 1871; and Given all the fun you can have in this :'slippery road.") Resort lodging comes the Phoenix Saloon was first among part of Texas, both on the river and off, with free access to the water park and Texas bars to serve women. Dining the Guadalupe is bound to inspire you ranges from the SchlitterStein Lofts, options in the area include' eclectic as well- to plan your return trip. SL

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