Tropical Birding Trip Report South Africa: October 2015

A Tropical Birding CUSTOM tour

SOUTH AFRICA: FAIREST CAPE TO KRUGER 4-20 October 2015 TOUR LEADER: JOSH ENGEL Photos by Josh Engel

Seeing Knysna Turaco up close is always a highlight of this tour.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report South Africa: October 2015

INTRODUCTION

South Africa is without question one of the world’s great birding and natural history destinations. With its long list of endemic , -filled national parks, and world class infrastructure, it’s a must-do for traveling birders. This itinerary followed a sort of “highlights” route, hitting some of the top birding spots, most scenic landscapes, and best national park the country has to offer.

We started in the Cape, the most endemic-rich part of the country, and we found most of them. This included great looks at Cape Rockjumper, Protea Canary, and Black Harrier. We started in Cape Town itself, before heading east to the lush Garden Route and arid Karoo. From there we flew across to the east, where we birded the beautiful high-altitude grasslands of Wakkerstroom and ended the trip with three days in Kruger National Park, with its unparalleled density of large . In Wakkerstroom we had incredible looks at the endangered endemics that it is famous for: Rudd’s and Botha’s Lark, Blue Korhaan, and Yellow-breasted Pipit. Kruger was better than I’ve ever seen it, and for the first time on a trip I guided we found the “super seven”: Elephant, Rhino, Lion, Leopard, Buffalo, Cheetah, and Wild Dog. The birding is outstanding there as well, and we found many of the key Kruger birds, like Brown-headed Parrot, Southern Ground-Hornbill, all of the vultures, Saddle-billed Stork, and more. All this while staying in wonderful hotels, eating delicious food, and generally having a great experience.

A leopard, the second that we saw, about to jump down twenty feet out of the tree. www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page 2

Tropical Birding Trip Report South Africa: October 2015

TOUR REPORT

Everyone arrived smoothly in Cape Town. After dropping our bags at the guest house and eating lunch at a lovely local café, we made a trip to the nearby Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, surely one of the world’s most beautiful botanical gardens. Birds are easy to see here and we quickly picked up the first birds for the trip, starting with a Spotted Eagle-owl watching over the entrance gate and later adding Cape Sugarbird, Cape Robin-chat, Cape White-eye, and many Southern Double-collared Sunbirds.

For our first full day of birding the following day, we headed north from Cape Town up the Atlantic coast. We spent much of the morning in , where highlights included Malachite Sunbird, many Karoo Scrub- Robins, a very cooperative Karoo Lark, and a showy pair of Gray-winged Francolins. Many shorebirds, waders, and terns were at one of the park’s excellent hides, including Greater and Lesser Flamingo, Bar-tailed Godwit, and Black Oystercatcher. For lunch we had the company of many Cape Weavers and Yellow Bishops. After lunch, we visited salt pans near Veldriff, where we quickly found our target Chestnut-banded Plover. We also had outstanding scope views of a perfectly lit European Bee-eater.

Starting our second full day in the Cape, we took a long walk through the botanical gardens. It was a beautiful morning. We had wonderful looks at the endemic Swee Waxbill and Forest Canary, and had prolonged views of several Cape Sugarbirds feeding on a flowering protea. As it always the case there, we had excellent looks at Olive Thrush, Cape www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page 3

Tropical Birding Trip Report South Africa: October 2015

Robin-chat, Cape Francolin, and other typical garden birds. After lunch we went into the city to visit the District Six Museum, which tells the story of forced removals of people from the area in the 1970s, much of it from the perspective of those who were forced to move. We still had plenty of time left in the day, so we ended our day at Strandfontein, Cape Town’s famous (among birders, at least) sewage ponds. They were full of birds. Greater Flamingoes were everywhere, and we quickly found Southern Pochard, Maccoa Duck, African Swamphen, and Little Rush- and Lesser Swamp-Warblers.

For our last day from Cape Town, we started on the Atlantic side of the Cape Penninsula at Kommetjie. We quickly found the cormorants we were searching after, the endangered Bank, Crowned, and Cape. A few Cape Gannets flew past offshore and we had a good time comparing the various terns that were perched on the rocks. We continued down to Cape Point, enjoying the stunning scenery along the way, as well as a few Orange-breasted Sunbirds. After a walk at the point, we headed back north to the famous penguin colony of Simonstown. We enjoyed the antics of the many African Penguins, afterwards commencing our eastward journey. We spent the afternoon along the rocky coast near Rooi Els. Very quickly we found what we were looking for, a beautiful Cape Rockjumper doing just as its name says—jumping among the rocks. We also quickly found another beautiful rock-loving South African endemic, Cape Rock Thrush.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report South Africa: October 2015

The next morning we started back at Rooi Els, where the rockjumpers put on an even better show than the previous afternoon. After a nice walk there, we continued eastward, stopping in at Hermanus, where we found two distant Southern Right Whales, but none close to shore, unfortunately. After stopping for lunch at a nice café, we birded our way through the wheat fields and renosterveld of the Agulhas Plain. We had great views of the locally endemic Agulhas Long-billed Lark along with many other goodies, including the endangered Cape Griffon, Cloud Cisticola, flocks of Blue Cranes, and a of Karoo Korhaans. We had spectacular looks at Malachite Sunbird and saw a few Yellow Mongoose scurrying across the fields. We finished the day at our hotel on a farmstead near Swellendam.

Our hotel was adjacent to Bontebok National Park, where we started our next morning. We quickly found displaying Cape (Agulhas) Clapper Larks, clapping their wings together in flight display as they do. A Rameron Pigeon sat up cooperatively for us, where we could see its yellow bill, eyering, and legs. Best of all was a pair of Black Harriers; as we watched the male flying towards us carrying a rodent in his talons, the female flew up from the ground, the prey was exchanged mid-air, and the female landed on the road to eat it. It was stunning behavior to see, from a beautiful, declining, endemic species. From there, we headed to the Garden Route, picking up lunch to eat on the balcony of our next B&B, its gardens full of birds. It didn’t take long to have Knysna Turacos just feet from our faces, along with Chorister Robin-chat and many others. After taking in the feeder birds, we visited some nearby wetlands. White-backed www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page 5

Tropical Birding Trip Report South Africa: October 2015

Ducks were plentiful as were Southern Pochard, an African Darter sat for us at close range in perfect light, and we watched a Pied Kingfisher smash a fish on a branch many times before swallowing it whole. We also tried calling out a Red-chested Flufftail, but despite calling back it wouldn’t come out of the reeds. We ended the day in a national park campground, where a pair of African (Blue-mantled) Crested Flycatchers put on a nice show.

Our next day was spent in the environs of Wilderness National Park. We started before breakfast with stunning views of a singing Olive Bush-shrike, but despite having a Knysna Warbler singing its head off just feet away, we couldn’t lay eyes on the little skulker. Breakfast back at the B&B was for the birds: the feeders just off the balcony where we ate were full of Swee Waxbill, Forest Canary, Southern Boubou, Knysna Turaco, and many others. After breakfast we took a walk in the forest, first enjoying one of South Africa’s largest remaining yellowwood trees, then enjoying the Green Woodhoopoes, Cape Batis, Olive , and other forest birds. After a nice rest and more feeder-watching, we returned to the forest for the afternoon, but the wind was strong and birds were hard to come by.

It was time to bid goodbye to the garden o’ birds after one final breakfast with the turacos. From there we headed north through the Little Karoo and over the beautiful Swartberg Pass. A very responsive Protea Canary greeted us as we began our ascent up the pass, this rare showing itself perfectly, but despite several singing back to us, Victorin’s Warblers wouldn’t come out. We did find a beautiful male Sentinal Rock Thrush and a Cape Rockjumper greeted us at the pass www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page 6

Tropical Birding Trip Report South Africa: October 2015 itself. We descended into the Great Karoo, stopping for an afternoon snack at a local café en route. Arriving at Karoo National Park, we took a drive through the plains. Birds were few out in this desert landscape, but mammals were plentiful, and we found the endemic Cape Mountain Zebra, Southern Oryx, Red Hartebeest, Steenbok, and Burchell’s Zebra. A stop at an -filled picnic site was much more productive for birds, and in no time we had outstanding looks at several target birds, including Namaqua Warblers, Pririt Batis, Fairy Flycatcher, and Acacia Pied Barbet. A night drive was not so productive, with only a Cape Hare to show for it.

We still had a full day in the Karoo. We started early heading up the park’s mountainous Klipspringer Pass. It was a beautiful morning and birds were cooperative. We started with a Dusky Sunbird before heading up the pass. Along the pass were the endemic African Rock Pipit and Layard’s Tit-Babbler. At the top we were amazed to find a Verreaux’s Eagle screaming its head off just across the canyon from our vantage point. A pair of Ground was extremely cooperative at the same spot, and a Rufous-eared Warbler showed perfectly nearby. In the afternoon we left the national park and headed to a nearby dirt road. We quickly found Tractrac Chat and Pale Chanting Goshawk, and not much later found Karoo Long-billed Lark, Chat Flycatcher, Gray-backed Sparrowlark, and many Karoo Korhaans. Better yet were a stunning Double-banded Courser and a male Southern Black Korhaan. A Black-chested Snake-Eagle soared lazily in the distance, allowing everybody to get scope views.

We had a final morning in the Karoo, which we spent on a drive near the chalets. We picked up a couple of new birds— Yellow-bellied Eremomela and a flyover Booted Eagle, before having to drive for the airport in Cape Town and flying to Johannesburg.

Leaving Joburg the following morning, we made our way to Wakkerstroom where we had lunch and met a local guide for the afternoon. It would quickly turn into one of the most memorable afternoons of birding I’ve ever had. We started out with a search for the rare Botha’s Lark. We were delayed in our search as we waited for a couple of small storms to pass. They passed, and before we knew it we were watching two Botha’s Larks feeding in the open out of our car windows. Certainly not the most colorful bird, but one we were ecstatic to see. Not to be outdone, before leaving the site we had watched a Pale-crowned Cisticola feeding on the ground and had great views of another Wakkerstroom specialty, Blue Korhaan, including wonderful flight views. As we headed to our next site we were again delayed, this time not by weather but by a pair of Secretarybirds that we watched foraging in a distant field. Finally arriving, we set out searching for a next rare lark. It took little time to again have absurdly good looks at it, this time the endangered Rudd’s Lark. But we were also surprised here to find the last of the high-altitude grassland specialties of Wakkerstroom, Yellow-breasted Pipit, showing off its namesake yellow breast. Amazing. As we headed back to town, very happy with what we had seen, we came across a field with a tremendous group of cranes, dozens of Gray-crowned and well over 100 Blue, plus another Secretarybird (photo on next page). But we weren’t done yet—we had to stop to watch the antics of a group of Meerkats with a Yellow Mongoose amongst them.

We still had a full day to enjoy the Wakkerstroom grasslands. We were up early and quickly found an Eastern Long-billed Lark doing its flight display over the road. A Ground Woodpecker was in the same area, along with flocks of Red Bishops and Long-tailed Widowbirds. We returned to the hotel for breakfast, setting out again after our bellies were full of eggs and coffee. It was fairly slow-going for birds. We did improve our views of Buff-streaked Chat and we caught up with nice views of Brown-throated and Banded Martins. We saw our first Rufous-naped Lark, but couldn’t find any . After lunch and a rest, we made a quick run to look for Red-throated Wryneck, which a couple of people saw, before spending the remainder of the afternoon checking out the town’s wetlands (and dodging rain showers). The wetlands www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page 7

Tropical Birding Trip Report South Africa: October 2015 were teeming with birds. We had great looks at African Snipe, African Rail, and many African (Purple) Swamphens. We had good studies of the various ducks that were present and we finished the day watching the antics of a male Southern Masked Weaver trying his absolute best to impress a nearby female by showing off his nests.

The following morning we set off early for our great Kruger safari. We arrived in Nelspruit, met our safari guide, traded our van in for an open-sided safari vehicle, and made our way to the park. We quickly started seeing typical Kruger mammals (Impala, Buffalo, Burchell’s Zebra) and lowveld birds (Lilac-breasted Roller, Yellow-throated Petronia, African Cuckoo). It wasn’t long, however, before we were watching a Leopard lying under a tree, a dead, mostly eaten Warthog hanging from the tree above. We waited around for a while to see if it would get active, and a few times we saw it get up and walk around. Along the rest of the drive to camp we found many elephants and many new birds, including Mocking Cliff-Chat.

We were up early with anticipation for our first full day in the park. We headed to a birding hide near our camp. Along the way we stopped for roadside birds (which were plentiful), including a beautiful pair of Violet-eared Waxbills and an Orange-breasted Bush-Shrike. The hide was very productive, with great views of Water Thick-knee, Red-chested Cuckoo, Striated Heron, and others, all at close range. Even better than the birds, though, was a family of elephants that at first were 100 meters from the hide, but before long were within arm’s length right next to the hide. It was incredible www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page 8

Tropical Birding Trip Report South Africa: October 2015 to see these giants at such close range. The adult female in the group had recently had a snare removed from her leg, and her wound was healing well.

We returned to camp for breakfast, where the fig tree over our table was full of African Green Pigeons and Brown- headed Parrots chowing on the fruits. After breakfast and a walk around the camp (which included a couple of Purple- crested Turacos and Crowned Hornbills), we continued on our way towards the central part of the park. Things were quiet—by Kruger standards—for a while, though we saw many African Buffalo and a number of birds. But we knew about a “surprise” ahead—and indeed our second Leopard was sitting in a tree as though waiting for us to arrive. We waited to see if anything would happen; it’s Impala kill had fallen from the tree and was at the base of the trunk. After a while, the Leopard got up, walked along the branch, jumped down, wandered around a bit, then jumped back up. All in all it was an amazing display of strength, agility, and athleticism to see the ease with which it maneuvered up and down the tree. We stopped for lunch, which included seeing a Greater Painted-Snipe in a small puddle scopable from our lunch table. Soon after lunch we spotted Saddle-billed Storks close to the road, also adding a beautiful flyby White- headed Vulture, Martial Eagle, and a large flock of Wattled Starling. We also stopped when we saw a group of songbird scolding something on the ground beneath them. Just as I started identifying the birds, a Serval popped up with a bird in its mouth and sauntered away. Certainly not what we were expecting and an extraordinary thing to see. As we rushed to

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Tropical Birding Trip Report South Africa: October 2015 get to camp before sunset we were held up when a gorgeous male Lion materialized on the road. We watched in awe— and perhaps a little fear from our open vehicle—as it walked along the road loudly declaring his territory.

As if yesterday weren’t overwhelming enough, we still had another full day in Kruger. We left camp early, bringing breakfast with us to eat at a picnic site near the Mozambique border. The way there was productive, starting with baby Spotted Hyenas nursing literally on the road, lots of the common mammals, and some great birds, including Kori , Red-crested Korhaan, and Cut-throated Finch. After breakfast we went to a nearby hide, where besides battling Hippos we enjoyed excellent views of Brown-headed Kingfisher, Gray-headed Bushshrike, and Black Crake. We continued back to camp, stopping along the dry riverbed when we came across a pair of the huge, charismatic Southern Ground-Hornbills, including one coming out of a nest hole, as well as a pair of Trumpeter Hornbills feeding in a fruiting Ficus. We also had great views of an African Hawk-Eagle in the same area. It was also a cat-filled drive—we watched a male Lion carefully guarding a female in heat while two other males lounged nearby, waiting for an opportunity. We also had views—with some maneuvering of the vehicle—of a Cheetah, one of Kruger’s rarest predators, completing the rare trifecta of big cats in the park. We took a break after lunch, taking a short evening drive. The highlight was our first White Rhinos—completing our Big Five—lying down near a water hole.

That night we set off on the camp’s night drive. Night drives can be hit-or-miss; tonight’s was a definite hit. Before long we saw many small nocturnal animals: African Wild Cat, Large-spotted Genet, Lesser Bushbaby, and African Civet. But a www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page 10

Tropical Birding Trip Report South Africa: October 2015 call came over the radio to the driver about lions and off we were. We knew we were headed towards lions but we weren’t prepared for the scene: two female lions feasting on a recently killed buffalo, twenty feet from our vehicle, while hyenas and jackals hovered on the outskirts of the scene. We watched the gory scene for twenty minutes, awed for the second time today by incredible lion behavior, as if in our own personal wildlife documentary. On the way back to camp we added a beautiful Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl.

We still had most of another day to enjoy Kruger, slowly working our way out of the park. It never takes long for a day to turn into something special here, and before long we were looking a two Cheetahs resting in front of a bush, much improved views from yesterday’s. Soon thereafter we were looking at a White Rhino grazing in woodlands, another much improved view of an impressively large animal. We also found two separate family groups of Southern Ground- Hornbill that we enjoyed watching forage for bugs. Soon enough our driver got a call about Wild Dogs not far from where we were, but when we showed up the dogs were gone and four species of vultures (White-headed, Lappet- faced, Hooded, and White-backed) were feeding on their now abandoned Bushbuck kill. Disappointed, we moved on, but it wasn’t long before we got another call about dogs. This time we rushed to a low-level bridge, arriving at exactly the right time to see three Wild Dogs saunter across the road and down the dry riverbed. Amazing!! We couldn’t believe our luck, but such is Kruger. www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page 11

Tropical Birding Trip Report South Africa: October 2015

Just before lunch we watched a Lilac-breasted Roller munching on a grasshopper, then at lunch in a camp the trees were flowering and were chock full of sunbirds. We had excellent views of Marico and White-bellied Sunbirds showing off their iridescent plumage. We added yet a few more birds right at the Kruger exit gate, including Klaas’s Cuckoo and Golden-tailed Woodpecker, just showing that there’s always something else to find in this huge park. We eventually made it to Nelspruit to catch our flight back to Johannesburg.

We had one last bit of birding before parting ways, in the small park across the street from our B&B near the airport in Joburg. We had great views of a pair of Red-throated Wrynecks, along with our first Red-headed Finches and Thick- billed Weavers of the trip. It was a wonderful way to end a great trip.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report South Africa: October 2015

BIRD LIST

372 species seen, plus 11 heard only. follows Clements, J. F., T. S. Schulenberg, M. J. Iliff, D. Roberson, T. A. Fredericks, B. L. Sullivan, and C. L. Wood. 2015. The eBird/Clements checklist of birds of the world: v2015. H=heard only. E=Endemic to Southern Africa south of the Kunene/Okavango/Zambezi Rivers; NE=Near-endemic. Birdlife International Red List Status is also indicated: NT=Near Threatened, VU=Vulnerable, EN=Endangered, CR=Critically Endangered.

Common Ostrich - Struthio camelus White-faced Whistling-Duck - Dendrocygna viduata White-backed Duck - Thalassornis leuconotus Egyptian Goose - Alopochen aegyptiaca South African Shelduck - Tadorna cana (E) Spur-winged Goose - Plectropterus gambensis Yellow-billed Duck - Anas undulata Cape Shoveler - Anas smithii (NE) Red-billed Duck - Anas erythrorhyncha Cape Teal - Anas capensis Southern Pochard - Netta erythrophthalma Maccoa Duck - Oxyura maccoa (NT) Helmeted Guineafowl - Numida meleagris Common Quail - Coturnix coturnix (H) Cape Francolin - Pternistis capensis (E) Natal Francolin - Pternistis natalensis (NE) Swainson's Francolin - Pternistis swainsonii Red-necked Francolin - Pternistis afer Crested Francolin - Francolinus sephaena Gray-winged Francolin - Scleroptila afra (E) Great looks at this endemic in West Coast National Park. Little Grebe - Tachybaptus ruficollis Great Crested Grebe - Podiceps cristatus Eared (Black-necked) Grebe - Podiceps nigricollis Greater Flamingo - Phoenicopterus roseus It’s always a joy to see the large numbers of flamingoes that live around Cape Town, especially in the Strandfontein Sewage Works. Lesser Flamingo - Phoeniconaias minor (NT) Jackass (African) Penguin - Spheniscus demersus (E)(EN) As charming as ever at the famous Boulders Beach colony. White-chinned Petrel - Procellaria aequinoctialis (VU) Abdim's Stork - Ciconia abdimii It was a bit of a surprise to see one of these migrant storks in a concentration of waterbirds around a drying waterhole in Kruger. Woolly-necked Stork - Ciconia episcopus Saddle-billed Stork - Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis We had wonderful views several times of these stunning storks. Marabou Stork - Leptoptilos crumenifer www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page 13

Tropical Birding Trip Report South Africa: October 2015

Yellow-billed Stork - Mycteria ibis Cape Gannet - Morus capensis (VU) Great Cormorant - Phalacrocorax carbo Cape Cormorant - Phalacrocorax capensis (NE)(EN) Bank Cormorant - Phalacrocorax neglectus (E)(EN) Long-tailed Cormorant - Phalacrocorax africanus Crowned Cormorant - Phalacrocorax coronatus (E)(NT) African Darter - Anhinga rufa Great White Pelican - Pelecanus onocrotalus Hamerkop - Scopus umbretta Among several sightings, we particularly enjoyed seeing one adding straw to its outsized nest in Wakkerstroom. Gray Heron - Ardea cinerea Black-headed Heron - Ardea melanocephala Goliath Heron - Ardea goliath Great Egret - Ardea alba Intermediate (Yellow-billed) Egret - Mesophoyx intermedia Little Egret - Egretta garzetta Cattle Egret - Bubulcus ibis Squacco Heron - Ardeola ralloides Striated Heron - Butorides striata Black-crowned Night-Heron - Nycticorax nycticorax Glossy Ibis - Plegadis falcinellus Sacred Ibis - Threskiornis aethiopicus Southern Bald Ibis - Geronticus calvus (E)(VU) Hadada Ibis - Bostrychia hagedash African Spoonbill - Platalea alba Secretary-bird - Sagittarius serpentarius (VU) One of the group’s most wanted birds—we were thrilled to have excellent looks around Wakkerstroom, including watching one foraging on a hillside in the scope. Black-shouldered Kite - Elanus caeruleus White-headed Vulture - Trigonoceps occipitalis (VU) We saw vultures several times, mostly in Kruger; the most memorable sighting was four species together in a dry riverbed, finishing off the remains of a Bushbuck that Wild Dogs had killed. Lappet-faced Vulture - Torgos tracheliotos (VU) Hooded Vulture - Necrosyrtes monachus (EN) White-backed Vulture - Gyps africanus (EN) Cape Griffon - Gyps coprotheres (E)(VU) Bateleur - Terathopius ecaudatus (NT) Black-breasted Snake-Eagle - Circaetus pectoralis Brown Snake-Eagle - Circaetus cinereus Martial Eagle - Polemaetus bellicosus (VU) Perhaps the iconic eagle of the African savannah, we had great views in Kruger, including one roosting on our night drive. www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page 14

Tropical Birding Trip Report South Africa: October 2015

Long-crested Eagle - Lophaetus occipitalis Wahlberg's Eagle - Hieraaetus wahlbergi Booted Eagle - Hieraaetus pennatus Tawny Eagle - Aquila rapax Verreaux's Eagle - Aquila verreauxii A trip highlight was watching one screaming its head off in the early morning in the Karoo. African Hawk-Eagle - Aquila spilogaster We had great views of one perched in riverine forest in Kruger. Pale Chanting-Goshawk - Melierax canorus (NE) African Marsh-Harrier - Circus ranivorus Black Harrier - Circus maurus (E)(VU) Among the birds of the trip was seeing a male Black Harrier in Bontebok National Park carrying food and exchanging it with a female, who landed on the road in front of us to eat it. Black (Yellow-billed) Kite - Milvus migrans (parasiticus) African Fish-Eagle - Haliaeetus vocifer Common (Steppe) Buzzard - Buteo buteo (vulpinus) Forest Buzzard - Buteo trizonatus (E) Jackal Buzzard - Buteo rufofuscus Kori Bustard - kori (NT) Blue Bustard (Korhaan) - caerulescens (E) Karoo Bustard (Korhaan) - Eupodotis vigorsii Red-crested Bustard (Korhaan) - Eupodotis ruficrista Black Bustard (Southern Black Korhaan) - Eupodotis afra (E)(VU) Black-bellied Bustard - melanogaster African Rail - Rallus caerulescens Conditions were just right for seeing this hard-to-see species in Wakkerstroom, where they were walking around in the open like it was nothing. Black Crake - Amaurornis flavirostra African Swamphen - Porphyrio madagascariensis Eurasian Moorhen - Gallinula chloropus Red-knobbed Coot - Fulica cristata Red-chested Flufftail - Sarothrura rufa (H) Gray Crowned-Crane - Balearica regulorum We saw a spectacular mixed flock of cranes in Wakkerstroom that included about 60 of these endangered beauties. Blue Crane - Anthropoides paradiseus Water Thick-knee - Burhinus vermiculatus Spotted Thick-knee - Burhinus capensis Black-winged Stilt - Himantopus himantopus Pied Avocet - Recurvirostra avosetta African Oystercatcher - Haematopus moquini (E)(NT) Black-bellied Plover - Pluvialis squatarola Blacksmith Lapwing - Vanellus armatus Black-winged Lapwing - Vanellus melanopterus www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page 15

Tropical Birding Trip Report South Africa: October 2015

Crowned Lapwing - Vanellus coronatus Wattled Lapwing - Vanellus senegallus Kittlitz's Plover - Charadrius pecuarius Common Ringed Plover - Charadrius hiaticula Three-banded Plover - Charadrius tricollaris White-fronted Plover - Charadrius marginatus Chestnut-banded Plover - Charadrius pallidus (NT) We saw a large flock of these beautiful little plovers at salt pans up the coast from Cape Town. Greater Painted-Snipe - Rostratula benghalensis A male was in a small pool in an otherwise dry riverbed in Kruger. We shared the scope with a very excited South African birder who declared “I’ve been looking for this bird for five years!” African Jacana - Actophilornis africanus Common Greenshank - Tringa nebularia Wood Sandpiper - Tringa glareola Whimbrel - Numenius phaeopus Bar-tailed Godwit - Limosa lapponica Red Knot - Calidris canutus Ruff - Calidris pugnax Curlew Sandpiper - Calidris ferruginea Sanderling - Calidris alba Little Stint - Calidris minuta African Snipe - Gallinago nigripennis Double-banded Courser - Smutsornis africanus Wonderful views on a dusty side road in the Karoo. Gray-hooded Gull - Chroicocephalus cirrocephalus Hartlaub's Gull - Chroicocephalus hartlaubii Kelp Gull - Larus dominicanus Caspian Tern - Hydroprogne caspia White-winged Tern - Chlidonias leucopterus Whiskered Tern - Chlidonias hybrida Common Tern - Sterna hirundo Great Crested Tern - Thalasseus bergii Sandwich Tern - Thalasseus sandvicensis Namaqua Sandgrouse - Pterocles namaqua (NE) Thanks to a tip from another Tropical Birding group, we had fantastic views of many of these beautiful birds in the Karoo. Rock Pigeon - Columba livia Speckled Pigeon - Columba guinea Rameron (African Olive) Pigeon - Columba arquatrix Lemon Dove - Columba larvata Mourning Collared-Dove (African Mourning Dove) - Streptopelia decipiens Red-eyed Dove - Streptopelia semitorquata Ring-necked Dove (Cape Turtle-Dove) - Streptopelia capicola Laughing Dove - Streptopelia senegalensis www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page 16

Tropical Birding Trip Report South Africa: October 2015

Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove - Turtur chalcospilos Namaqua Dove - Oena capensis African Green-Pigeon - Treron calvus Knysna Turaco - Tauraco corythaix (E) Seeing these at extremely close range is always a highlight of our South Africa tours. Purple-crested Turaco - Tauraco porphyreolophus Just a pair of these stunning birds was seen by part of the group in Kruger. Gray Go-away-bird - Corythaixoides concolor Red-chested Cuckoo - Cuculus solitarius Black Cuckoo - Cuculus clamosus African Cuckoo - Cuculus gularis Klaas's Cuckoo - Chrysococcyx klaas Dideric Cuckoo - Chrysococcyx caprius White-browed (Burchell’s)Coucal - Centropus superciliosus (burchelli) African Scops-Owl - Otus senegalensis Spotted Eagle-Owl - Bubo africanus Just about the first bird we saw on our first afternoon of birding at the botanical gardens in Cape Town. Verreaux's Eagle-Owl - Bubo lacteus Great views of this hulking owl on our Kruger night drive. Rufous-cheeked Nightjar - Caprimulgus rufigena (H) Fiery-necked Nightjar - Caprimulgus pectoralis (H) Square-tailed Nightjar - Caprimulgus fossii (H) Alpine Swift - Apus melba African Swift - Apus barbatus Little Swift - Apus affinis White-rumped Swift - Apus caffer African Palm-Swift - Cypsiurus parvus Speckled Mousebird - Colius striatus White-backed Mousebird - Colius colius Red-faced Mousebird - Urocolius indicus Eurasian Hoopoe - Upupa epops Green Woodhoopoe - Phoeniculus purpureus Common Scimitar-bill - Rhinopomastus cyanomelas Southern Ground-Hornbill - Bucorvus leadbeateri (VU) We had incredible views several times of this giant hornbill in Kruger, a stronghold for the species, including one exiting a nest hole and two family groups. Crowned Hornbill - Lophoceros alboterminatus African Gray Hornbill - Lophoceros nasutus Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill - Tockus leucomelas Southern Red-billed Hornbill - Tockus rufirostris Trumpeter Hornbill - Bycanistes bucinator We had great views of a pair in riverine forest in Kruger. Malachite Kingfisher - Corythornis cristatus Brown-hooded Kingfisher - Halcyon albiventris www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page 17

Tropical Birding Trip Report South Africa: October 2015

Striped Kingfisher - Halcyon chelicuti Giant Kingfisher - Megaceryle maxima Pied Kingfisher - Ceryle rudis White-fronted Bee-eater - Merops bullockoides Little Bee-eater - Merops pusillus European Bee-eater - Merops apiaster Lilac-breasted Roller - Coracias caudatus One of the iconic birds of an Africa safari. It’s common in Kruger where we had wonderful views many times, including one right next to the road eating a grasshopper on our way out of the park. Rufous-crowned (Purple) Roller - Coracias naevius Broad-billed Roller - Eurystomus glaucurus A couple of people saw one from a hide in Kruger. Crested Barbet - Trachyphonus vaillantii Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird - Pogoniulus chrysoconus Pied Barbet - Tricholaema leucomelas (NE) Black-collared Barbet - Lybius torquatus Rufous-necked Wryneck - Jynx ruficollis After getting only brief views in Wakkerstroom, we had wonderful views of this strange bird outside our hotel in Johannesburg. Golden-tailed Woodpecker - abingoni Knysna Woodpecker - Campethera notata (H) (E)(NT) Ground Woodpecker - Geocolaptes olivaceus (E) Fantastic views of a pair in the Karoo, sitting on the lip of a beautiful canyon. Cardinal Woodpecker - Dendropicos fuscescens Olive Woodpecker - Dendropicos griseocephalus Rock Kestrel - Falco rupicolus Lanner Falcon - Falco biarmicus Brown-headed Parrot - Poicephalus cryptoxanthus It was fun eating breakfast in Kruger under a fruiting fig tree that was full of these parrots. Cape Batis - Batis capensis (E) Chinspot Batis - Batis molitor Pririt Batis - Batis pririt Brubru - Nilaus afer Black-backed Puffback - Dryoscopus cubla Black-crowned Tchagra - Tchagra senegalus Brown-crowned Tchagra - Tchagra australis Southern Boubou - Laniarius ferrugineus (E) Bokmakierie - Telophorus zeylonus (E) Sulphur-breasted Bushshrike - Telophorus sulfureopectus Olive Bushshrike - Telophorus olivaceus (NE) We had stunning views of this often skulking species sitting right in the open and singing near Wilderness. Gray-headed Bushshrike - Malaconotus blanchoti Southern Fiscal - Lanius collaris Magpie Shrike - Corvinella melanoleuca African Black-headed Oriole - Oriolus larvatus www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page 18

Tropical Birding Trip Report South Africa: October 2015

Fork-tailed Drongo - Dicrurus adsimilis African Crested-Flycatcher (Blue-mantled Flycatcher) - Trochocercus cyanomelas African Paradise-Flycatcher - Terpsiphone viridis Cape Crow - Corvus capensis - Corvus albus White-necked Raven - Corvus albicollis Cape Rockjumper - Chaetops frenatus (E) One of the truly special birds of South Africa, we found rockjumpers multiple times. Rufous-naped Lark - Mirafra africana Cape (Agulhas) Clapper Lark - Mirafra apiata (marjoriae) (E) We enjoyed watching the aerial displays—including the namesake wing-clapping—in Bontebok National Park. Rudd's Lark - Heteromirafra ruddi (E)(VU) Sabota Lark - Calendulauda sabota (NE) Karoo Lark - Calendulauda albescens (E) Spike-heeled Lark - Chersomanes albofasciata (NE) Agulhas (Long-billed) Lark - Certhilauda brevirostris (E) Eastern Long-billed Lark - Certhilauda semitorquata (E) We enjoyed watching one do its flight display—conventiently right on the road—in Wakkerstroom. Karoo Long-billed Lark – Certhilauda semitorquata (E) Gray-backed Sparrow-Lark – Eremopterix verticalis (E) Red-capped Lark - Calandrella cinerea Botha's Lark - Spizocorys fringillaris (E)(EN) Often very difficult to find, we hardly searched at all before getting incredible views of a pair of this highly endangered lark feeding right out in the open. Large-billed Lark - Galerida magnirostris (E) Plain Martin - Riparia paludicola Banded Martin - Riparia cincta Rock Martin - Ptyonoprogne fuligula Barn Swallow - Hirundo rustica White-throated Swallow - Hirundo albigularis It’s always fun seeing these migrant swallows up close and personal in the West Coast National Park hides, where they nest actually inside the hides themselves. Wire-tailed Swallow - Hirundo smithii Pearl-breasted Swallow - Hirundo dimidiata Greater Striped-Swallow - Cecropis cucullata Lesser Striped-Swallow - Cecropis abyssinica Rufous-chested Swallow - Cecropis semirufa South African Swallow - Petrochelidon spilodera Black Sawwing - Psalidoprocne pristoptera Fairy Flycatcher - Stenostira scita (E) Southern Black-Tit - Melaniparus niger Sombre Greenbul - Andropadus importunus Yellow-bellied Greenbul - Chlorocichla flaviventris Terrestrial Brownbul - Phyllastrephus terrestris www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page 19

Tropical Birding Trip Report South Africa: October 2015

Common Bulbul - Pycnonotus barbatus Black-fronted (African Red-eyed) Bulbul - Pycnonotus nigricans (NE) Cape Bulbul - Pycnonotus capensis (E) Cape (Long-billed) Crombec - Sylvietta rufescens Cape Grassbird - Sphenoeacus afer (E) Victorin's Warbler - Cryptillas victorini (H)(E) Willow Warbler - Phylloscopus trochilus African Reed-Warbler - Acrocephalus baeticatus (H) Lesser Swamp-Warbler - Acrocephalus gracilirostris Knysna Warbler - Bradypterus sylvaticus (H)(E)(VU) Little Rush-Warbler - Bradypterus baboecala Bar-throated Apalis - Apalis thoracica Yellow-breasted Apalis - Apalis flavida Green-backed Camaroptera - Camaroptera brachyura Rufous-eared Warbler - Malcorus pectoralis (E) Red-faced Cisticola - Cisticola erythrops (H) Rock-loving (Lazy) Cisticola - Cisticola aberrans Rattling Cisticola - Cisticola chiniana Red-headed (Gray-backed) Cisticola - Cisticola subruficapilla (NE) Wailing Cisticola - Cisticola lais (H) Levaillant's Cisticola - Cisticola tinniens Piping Cisticola (Neddicky) - Cisticola fulvicapilla Zitting Cisticola - Cisticola juncidis Cloud Cisticola - Cisticola textrix (NE) Pale-crowned Cisticola - Cisticola cinnamomeus Wing-snapping Cisticola - Cisticola ayresii (H) Tawny-flanked Prinia - Prinia subflava Karoo Prinia - Prinia maculosa (E) Drakensberg Prinia - Prinia hypoxantha (E) Namaqua Prinia - Prinia substriata (E) Yellow-bellied Eremomela - Eremomela icteropygialis Layard's Warbler (Tit-babbler) - Sylvia layardi (E) Rufous-vented Warbler (Chestnut-vented Tit-babbler) - Sylvia subcaerulea Cape White-eye - Zosterops capensis (E) Arrow-marked Babbler - Turdoides jardineii Cape Sugarbird - Promerops cafer (E) Another of South African’s specialties—the two members of the sugarbird family only occur here—we had beautiful views several times around Cape Town. Chat Flycatcher - Bradornis infuscatus (NE) Southern Black-Flycatcher - Melaenornis pammelaina Fiscal Flycatcher - Sigelus silens (E) Dusky-brown (African Dusky) Flycatcher - Muscicapa adusta Karoo Scrub-Robin - Cercotrichas coryphaeus (E) www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page 20

Tropical Birding Trip Report South Africa: October 2015

Red-backed (White-backed) Scrub-Robin - Cercotrichas leucophrys Cape Robin-Chat - Cossypha caffra White-browed Robin-Chat - Cossypha heuglini Chorister Robin-Chat - Cossypha dichroa (E) Short-toed Rock-Thrush - Monticola brevipes (NE) Sentinel Rock-Thrush - Monticola exploratory (E) Cape Rock-Thrush - Monticola rupestris (E) African Stonechat - Saxicola torquatus Buff-streaked Bushchat - Saxicola bifasciatus (E) Southern Anteater-Chat - Myrmecocichla formicivora (E) It was amusing—for us if not for the chats—watching a pair chase a Yellow Mongoose away from its nest. Mocking Cliff-Chat - Thamnolaea cinnamomeiventris Karoo Chat - Cercomela schlegelii (NE) Tractrac Chat - Cercomela tractrac (NE) Familiar Chat - Cercomela familiaris Mountain Wheatear - Oenanthe monticola (NE) Capped Wheatear - Oenanthe pileata Kurrichane Thrush - Turdus libonyana Olive Thrush - Turdus olivaceus Karoo Thrush - Turdus smithi (E) European Starling - Sturnus vulgaris Wattled Starling - Creatophora cinerea Common Myna - Acridotheres tristis Violet-backed Starling - Cinnyricinclus leucogaster Pale-winged Starling - Onychognathus nabouroup (NE) Red-winged Starling - Onychognathus morio Black-bellied Starling - Notopholia corrusca Burchell's Starling - Lamprotornis australis (NE) African Pied Starling - Lamprotornis bicolor (E) Greater Blue-eared Starling - Lamprotornis chalybaeus Cape (Glossy-)Starling - Lamprotornis nitens Red-billed Oxpecker - Buphagus erythrorhynchus Collared Sunbird - Hedydipna collaris Orange-breasted Sunbird - Anthobaphes violacea (E) Mouse-colored (Gray) Sunbird – Cyanomitra veroxii Amethyst Sunbird - Chalcomitra amethystina Scarlet-chested Sunbird - Chalcomitra senegalensis We had a lot of great looks at sunbirds, but seeing flowering trees in Kruger covered with these gorgeous birds was among the best. Malachite Sunbird - Nectarinia famosa Southern Double-collared Sunbird - Cinnyris chalybeus (E) We had many wonderful looks at these beauties, especially at the botanical gardens in Cape Town. Greater Double-collared Sunbird - Cinnyris afer (E) Mariqua Sunbird - Cinnyris mariquensis www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page 21

Tropical Birding Trip Report South Africa: October 2015

White-breasted Sunbird - Cinnyris talatala Dusky Sunbird - Cinnyris fuscus (NE) Cape Wagtail - Motacilla capensis African Pied Wagtail - Motacilla aguimp African Pipit - Anthus cinnamomeus Long-billed Pipit - Anthus similis Yellow-tufted (African Rock) Pipit - Anthus crenatus (E) Yellow-breasted Pipit - Hemimacronyx chloris (E)(VU) One of the specialties of eastern South Africa’s grasslands, we easily found a pair, saving us a lot of searching! Orange-throated Longclaw - Macronyx capensis (E) Lark-like Bunting - Emberiza impetuani (NE) Cape Bunting - Emberiza capensis Golden-breasted Bunting - Emberiza flaviventris Cape Canary - Serinus canicollis (E) Yellow-fronted Canary - Serinus mozambicus Forest Canary - Serinus scotops (E) Black-throated Canary - Serinus atrogularis Brimstone Canary - Serinus sulphuratus Yellow Canary - Serinus flaviventris (NE) White-throated Canary - Serinus albogularis (NE) Protea Canary - Serinus leucopterus (E) One of the more difficult of the Cape endemics to come across, we had stunning views thanks to a tip from another Tropical Birding trip that was in the area. Streaky-headed Seedeater - Serinus gularis House Sparrow - Passer domesticus Cape Sparrow - Passer melanurus (NE) Southern Gray-headed Sparrow - Passer diffusus Yellow-throated Petronia - Petronia superciliaris Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver - Bubalornis niger Red-headed Weaver - Anaplectes rubriceps Cape Weaver - Ploceus capensis (E) Lesser Masked-Weaver - Ploceus intermedius Southern Masked-Weaver - Ploceus velatus We had a lot of fun in Wakkerstroom watching a male trying to entice a female to check out his beautifully constructed nests. Village Weaver - Ploceus cucullatus Red-billed Quelea - Quelea quelea Southern Red Bishop - Euplectes orix Yellow Bishop - Euplectes capensis White-winged Widowbird - Euplectes albonotatus Red-collared Widowbird - Euplectes ardens Fan-tailed Widowbird - Euplectes axillaris Long-tailed Widowbird - Euplectes progne www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page 22

Tropical Birding Trip Report South Africa: October 2015

Grosbeak Weaver - Amblyospiza albifrons Swee Waxbill - Coccopygia melanotis (E) We had great views of a pair at Kirstenbosch before having even better views at feeders at our B&B in Wilderness. Common Waxbill - Estrilda astrild Southern Cordonbleu (Blue Waxbill) - Uraeginthus angolensis Violet-eared Waxbill - Granatina granatina Beautiful looks at a pair near Skukuza Camp in Kruger. Red-billed Firefinch - Lagonosticta senegala Jameson's Firefinch - Lagonosticta rhodopareia Cut-throat - Amadina fasciata Red-headed Finch - Amadina erythrocephala (NE) African Quailfinch - Ortygospiza fuscocrissa These miniscule finches showed us just how hard they can be to see well as they hid in grass that wasn’t any taller than they were, but eventually everyone got good views. Pin-tailed Whydah - Vidua macroura Variable (Dusky) Indigobird - Vidua funerea

MAMMAL LIST 53 species seen, plus one heard, an incredible number for this trip.

Wahlberg's Epauletted Fruit Bat Epomophorus wahlbergi Chacma Baboon (NE) Papio ursinus Vervet Monkey Cercopithecus aethiops Thick-tailed Bushbaby (H) Otolemur crassicaudatus Lesser Bushbaby Galago moholi Cape Hare Lepus capensis Scrub Hare Lepus saxatilis Tree Squirrel Paraxerus cepapi Eastern Gray Squirrel Sciurus carolinensis Striped Mouse Rhabdomys pumilio Vlei Rat (E) Otomys irroratus Bush Karoo Rat (E) Otomys unisulcatus Black-backed Jackal Canis mesomelas Several jackals were hovering in the background, waiting for an opportunity, while the female lions fed on their buffalo kill. African Wild Dog (EN) Lycaon pictus Great views of three individuals walking across the road in front of us and then down a dry riverbed, just before we left Kruger. Banded Mongoose Mungos mungo Small Grey Mongoose (E) Galerella pulverulenta Dwarf Mongoose Helogale parvula Yellow Mongoose (NE) Cynictis penicillata Meerkat (NE) Suricata suricatta Large-spotted Genet Genetta tigrina African Civet Civettictis civetta www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page 23

Tropical Birding Trip Report South Africa: October 2015

Spotted Hyena Crocuta crocuta We had wonderful views of hyenas several times in Kruger, including twice seeing cubs nursing on the road, and seeing one being chased away by lions guarding their buffalo kill on a night drive. African Wild Cat Felis lybica Serval Felis serval We stopped in Kruger when we found a group of scolding birds; we weren’t expecting that they were scolding a Serval! It ran off with a bird in its mouth. Cheetah (VU) Acinonyx jubatus After getting not-great views of one sitting in the shade of a bush, we had great views of two brothers lounging not far from the road on our last day in Kruger. Lion (VU) Panthera leo We had great experiences with lions several times in Kruger. A big male walked down the road right next to us—in our open-sided vehicle— loudly declaring his territory. On our night drive we came across females hungrily eating a buffalo they had recently killed. Leopard (NT) Panthera pardus We saw leopard multiple times, remarkably. First was one on the ground under a tree that had the skin of a warthog hanging from it, clear evidence of the leopard’s last meal. Even better was seeing the display of agility and grace as one climbed out of a tree, then jumped back up. African Elephant (VU) Loxodonta africana We never tired of seeing elephants in Kruger. Among our many sightings was watching a small group that came right next to the hide we were sitting in—literally feet away from us. We also watched a female digging in a dry riverbed for water. Rock Hyrax Procavia capensis Cape Mountain Zebra (E) (VU) Equus zebra Burchell's Zebra Equus burchellii White Rhino (NT) Ceratotherium simum The last of the Big Five that we saw. Our best views were of a male close to the road on our last day in Kruger. Warthog Phacochoerus aethiopicus Hippopotamus Hippopotamus amphibius Giraffe Giraffa camelopardalis Common in Kruger. Perhaps our most interesting sighting was seeing a baby giraffe so young that it still had its umbilical cord! African Buffalo Syncerus caffer Eland Taurotragus oryx Greater Kudu Tragelaphus strepsiceros Bushbuck Tragelaphus scriptus Southern Oryx (NE) Oryx gazella Common Waterbuck Kobus ellipsiprymnus Common Reedbuck Redunca fulvorufula Grey Rhebok (E) Pelea capreolus www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page 24

Tropical Birding Trip Report South Africa: October 2015

Blue Wildebeest Connochaetes taurinus Red Haartebeest Alcelaphus buselaphus Bontebok (E) Damaliscus dorcas Impala Aepyceros melampus Springbok (E) Antidorcas marsuplialis Klipspringer Oreotragus oreotragus Steenbok Raphicerus campestris Common Duiker Sylvicapra grimmia Southern Right Whale Balaena glacialis Bottlenosed Dolphin Tursiops truncatus We saw a large group of these cetaceans close to shore—even surfing in the breakers—when we stopped for photos along the scenic Gordon’s Bay – Rooiels road. Long-beaked Common Dolphin Delphinus capensis Cape Fur Seal (NE) Arctocephalus pusillus

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