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Conservation Area

Character

Appraisal

Calf Hall and

Gillians

Barnoldswick

September 2005

For an alternative format of this document phone 01282 661330 Calf Hall and Gillians Conservation Area, 2 Appraisal of Special Interest and Character

3 Calf Hall and Gillians Conservation Area, Barnoldswick Appraisal of Special Interest and Character

Contents

1. Introduction ...... 4

2. Location and setting ...... 5

3. The origins and development of the area ...... 5

4. Land uses and their influence on building types ...... 7

5. The architectural and historic qualities of the buildings ...... 8

6. Building materials and local detail ...... 12

7. Open spaces, landscape features and significant views ...... 14

8. Negative features ...... 17

9. Strategy for enhancement ...... 17

Calf Hall and Gillians Conservation Area, Barnoldswick 4 Appraisal of Special Interest and Character

1. Introduction

1.1 has a duty under the Planning (Listed Building and Conservation Areas) Act 1990 to designate as conservation areas any ‘areas of special architectural or historic interest, the character or appearance of which it is desirable to preserve or enhance’. Where an area has special architectural or historic interest, a conservation area character appraisal is a way of recording and evaluating this. An appraisal should assess all the factors that are considered to create this special interest, which may include current and past land uses, topography, types and styles of buildings, architectural details or historic development.

1.2 A character appraisal is the first step in a dynamic process, the aim of which is to preserve and enhance the character and appearance of a conservation area. It defines, records and analyses the architecture and history of buildings and spaces, leading to an understanding of their townscape value and significance, and thus to establishing the qualities that make the area special. The appraisal can then provide a baseline for decisions about the area’s future, as well as a useful tool for education and information.

1.3 The Calf Hall and Gillians Conservation Area was designated in September 2005, as an extension to the existing Barnoldswick Conservation Area, designated in 1997 to include much of the town centre. The new Conservation Area covers the rising semi- rural land to the south and west of the town, and includes elements which clearly indicate the historical development of the town from its early agricultural origins through to a later -based economy.

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l Dark Hill o ) 5 Calf Hall and Gillians Conservation Area, Barnoldswick Appraisal of Special Interest and Character

2. Location and setting

2.1 Barnoldswick is a small town located in the extreme north east of , close to the border with North . Historically part of Yorkshire, since 1974 it has formed the northern part of the in Lancashire.

2.2 The Conservation Area is based around two streams, Calf Hall Beck to the north and Gillians Beck to the south, which historically provided the power source for the industrial development of the town. The southern end of the Conservation Area includes Road (B6251) and Gillians Lane, and slopes down to a valley at the foot of , but also includes Letcliffe Park on higher land to the east. The area to the north includes Calf Hall Lane which follows Calf Hall Beck, close to where the two streams then converge to become Butts Beck.

3. The origins and development of the area

3.1 There is much evidence of early settlement in Barnoldswick. The town is situated close to a roman road (Ribchester to Ilkley, running along Brogden Lane) and it was mentioned in the Domesday Book. In medieval times, Henry de Lacy, the Earl of Lincoln, invited Cistercian Monks from Fountains Abbey in Yorkshire to build a daughter foundation abbey at Barnoldswick, which was completed in 1147. However, the monks found the climate and the locality disagreeable and the abbey was abandoned and destroyed in 1152-53, when the monks left to found near Leeds. Although nothing of the abbey remains, the site is believed to be by the hill at Monkroyd, close to Calf Hall Beck.

3.2 Nearby street names indicate places which have disappeared beneath urban expansion; the Butts crosses the field where men practised their archery in medieval times.

3.3 The farms scattered along the hillsides overlooking the town provide probably the earliest evidence of settlement. The farmhouses at Lower Calf Hall (listed Grade II), Hill Top, Letcliffe, and Standridge all have their origins in the 17th century or earlier. The network of roads and tracks coming down from the moors still forms the basis of the road pattern today.

3.4 The growth of the weaving industry had the most profound effect on Barnoldswick. Around Manchester Road and Gillians Lane, there is evidence of early hand- weaving in cottages from the late 1700’s, such as at Lane Bottom, Gillians and Bancrofts. Gillians Mill is an early example of a water- powered spinning mill, built in the late 18th century alongside Gillians Beck.

Calf Hall and Gillians Conservation Area, Barnoldswick 6 Appraisal of Special Interest and Character

Weavers’ cottages at Lane Bottom

3.5 It was the textile industry which prompted Barnoldswick’s expansion in the 19th century, assisted by the arrival of the canal around 1800 and the railway in 1871. Over half of the working population in 1841 were cotton weavers, and the rest would have been heavily dependent on the industry.

3.6 Downstream from Gillians, Butts Mill borders the Conservation Area and was built in 1846 as a steam powered cotton-weaving mill run on the ‘room and power’ system. Calf Hall Shed (now Hope Mill), another steam-powered weaving mill, dates from 1889. Both mills were built alongside Calf Hall Beck with its ready water supply. Many people were moving to Barnoldswick to find work in the mills, and nearby terraced housing around Calf Hall Road grew up to house the mill workers. Bancroft Shed, dating from 1914, was the last mill to be built in the area. The weaving shed was demolished in 1979, leaving the engine house, boiler house and chimney, now open as a steam museum. The original mill engine, built by William Roberts and Sons, is a horizontal cross compound engine with high and low pressure cylinders, named ‘James’ and ‘Mary Jane’ after the mill’s owner, James Nutter, and his wife.

3.7 From the early 20th century, the increasing prosperity in the town is evident with the construction of higher status housing in an elevated position along Manchester Road. Around the same time, Letcliffe Park was laid out as a recreation ground, commanding fine views of Barnoldswick, the Yorkshire Dales and the .

3.8 There are no scheduled ancient monuments within the conservation area, however the Lancashire Sites and Monuments Record lists the following archaeological sites in the area: • A possible Holy Well at Calf Hall Lane • The site of the former Abbey (Monkroyd) • A Bronze Age axehead or chisel found at Causeway Carr

7 Calf Hall and Gillians Conservation Area, Barnoldswick Appraisal of Special Interest and Character

• Alley Well (close to Folly Lane) • Gillians Mill • Calf Hall Mill • Butts Mill • Ridge and Furrow (close to Calf Hall Lane) • Lower Calf Hall, Grade II listed building • Newfield Edge, Grade II listed building • Bancroft Mill and Engine House

3.9 Features relating to early water and steam power can be seen throughout the conservation area, for instance, the stone-built weir at the top of Ousel Dale which supplied the power for the water wheel at Ousel Dale saw mill, and the water outlet at Calf Hall Mill where the beck emerges from beneath the mill.

4. Land uses and their influence on building types

4.1 Farms had existed in the area for many years before the 19th century expansion of the town. However it was the dominance of the weaving industry in the area for over 200 years that had the greatest effect on the landscape and building types. Handloom weavers occupied cottages outside the town in the rural hinterland; the cottages at Lane Bottom, Bancrofts, Gillians and Folly Cottages being examples. Many of the farms in the area supplemented their incomes through weaving, and sometimes cottages would be built adjacent to the farms as at Letcliffe. Paths became established, and later on were often cobbled, where the weavers walked between their homes and the mills. For instance, handloom weavers would walk from Crowfoot Row, along Longfield Lane and the Forty Steps, to Gillians Mill where they would pick up the raw material and return later with the woven cloth. The was ‘put out’ to the weavers on Monday mornings and the cloth returned the following Saturday, payment averaging ‘fifteen pence a piece’.

4.2 The early water-powered at Gillians is a simple three-storey stone building, now in residential use. By 1795 a complex of buildings had grown up around the mill, including a spinning factory, two-storey warehouse and handloom weaving shops and cottages. Although altered over time, the complex still retains some evidence of its origins as an early industrial hamlet.

Calf Hall and Gillians Conservation Area, Barnoldswick 8 Appraisal of Special Interest and Character

Gillians Mill

4.3 The later mills at Calf Hall, Bancroft and Butts were all built to the usual pattern; a large single-storey weaving shed with glazed north-light roof, surrounded by long stone walls, a characteristic feature of the Barnoldswick streetscene. The taller vertical elements comprised the engine houses, chimneys, boiler houses and warehouses. The preserved engine house and chimney at Bancroft is a defining feature of Barnoldswick and is very prominent in views into and around the Conservation Area and town as a whole.

4.4 The stone-built terraced housing around Calf Hall Road is simple and robust, and was built in response to the growth of the textile industry. The larger houses, terraced, semi-detached and detached, along Manchester Road were built for the more wealthy residents of the town, taking advantage of the cleaner air and good views to be had beyond the urban area.

5. The architectural and historic qualities of the buildings

5.1 Many of the buildings in the Conservation Area are not in themselves of great architectural merit, but are built in the attractive and distinctive local vernacular tradition, and make a positive contribution to the townscape. The character owes more to the human scale of both residential and industrial properties, the predominance of local stone and slate, and the configuration of buildings in the landscape, rather than to individual landmark buildings. The vernacular architecture is simple and robust, and for the most part, uncluttered. The predominant building materials used are gritstone and

9 Calf Hall and Gillians Conservation Area, Barnoldswick Appraisal of Special Interest and Character

sandstone for walls and often for roofs, although blue slate is also a common roofing material, particularly within the more urban areas around Calf Hall Road.

5.2 There are two listed buildings in the Conservation Area; Lower Calf Hall, and Newfield Edge (both Grade II). Lower Calf Hall is a 17th century farmhouse, altered in the 18th century, built of rubble stone with a stone slate roof. The 17th century window openings are chamfered with moulded and returned dripstones, although the mullions have been removed.

Newfield Edge

5.3 Newfield Edge is a grand family house built in 1770 for the Mitchell family who owned the water mill at Clough. Attached were a home farm, a coach house and stables. It was bought by William ‘Owd Billycock’ Bracewell in 1845. A prominent local character and wealthy industrialist, he owned several cotton mills including Butts Mill, a colliery, the corn mill, as well as most of the land in the area and hundreds of homes for his workers. The house has fine classical proportions, with dressed stone and elegant Georgian sash windows, and is well set back from Folly Lane behind stone gate piers, railings and mature trees. It provides a contrast with the more utilitarian and vernacular style of other buildings in the Conservation Area.

Calf Hall and Gillians Conservation Area, Barnoldswick 10 Appraisal of Special Interest and Character

Bancroft Mill

5.4 Also of note is the Bancroft Mill engine house and chimney, very prominent in views of the town from the surrounding hills and approach roads, especially from the southern approach to the town along Manchester Road. The gabled engine house is of random stone rubble with rock-faced quoins to the corners. The imposing north gable end has a single large round-headed window with smooth stone voussoirs and quoins and a rusticated keyblock. The east elevation, raised up above the road, has six large rectangular windows. The chimney is attached to the boiler house and is of red brick, tall, slender and tapering with a moulded cap.

5.5 The Manchester Road descent into the town is surely the most attractive. At the junction with Gillians Lane, prominent in the panoramic view below is the massive sweep of the stone slate roof of a barn at Bancrofts. The colour and texture of the slate are impressive, and establish the area’s predominant palette of natural sandstone. To the right hand side of the road, set up high above wooded gardens are the solid stone villas, mainly in semi-detached pairs, built after the turn of the century for the wealthier classes. At the end of the row is Hill Top, a farmhouse and barn dating from the late 17th or early 18th century; the severe stone end gable wall, windowless but with small vent holes, creating an imposing feature facing down into the town.

11 Calf Hall and Gillians Conservation Area, Barnoldswick Appraisal of Special Interest and Character

5.6 Standridge, on Folly Lane, is another old farmhouse set on high ground and marking the western extremity of the conservation area. From the valley below it is seen on the skyline, and its stark lines and white-painted stone make it a prominent local landmark.

5.7 Calf Hall Shed, built in 1889 and extended again the following year to double its loom capacity, has retained its original plan with little alteration made to it over time, although the chimney and part of the weaving shed have been demolished, and the weaving sheds have been re-roofed in metal cladding. The building is no longer in textile use, being a print works, and the surviving structures are in good condition. It is built of coursed and random stone rubble, and originally comprised a multi-storey office, warehouse and yarn preparation block, a single-storey weaving shed, engine house, boiler house and chimney. The mill’s position is semi-rural, and Calf Hall Beck is culverted beneath it. The south-facing two-storey office/warehouse block has a prominent façade 21 bays long, built of coursed stone rubble. The length of the elevation and its regular rows of eight-pane windows are an imposing sight when viewed across fields from Westgate and Town Head.

Calf Hall Shed

5.8 The front of the mill on Calf Hall Road is attractive, and still retains the four tall round- headed windows of the engine house, the gable of which runs into the tall and severe blank stone wall of the weaving sheds. Calf Hall Lane, bounded by the long stone wall of the mill, leads out into open countryside beyond.

5.9 The Jehovah’s Witness Kingdom Hall stands near to the junction of Calf Hall Road and Walmsgate, set back at the end of a row of terraced housing, its gable overlooking the junction. It is a later 19th century stone-built chapel building, simple in style with large windows, though altered.

Calf Hall and Gillians Conservation Area, Barnoldswick 12 Appraisal of Special Interest and Character

5.10 Paddock Laithe on Calf Hall Road is an early 18th century stone building now used as a Scout Headquarters. It has obviously suffered some alteration, particularly to its immediate setting, but remains a local landmark.

6. Building materials and local detail

6.1 The cutting of the Leeds-Liverpool canal in 1796 enabled the easier transport of stone from nearby sandstone and gritstone quarries, although limestone quarries were already in existence on the hills to the west of the town. Between Barnoldswick and , just to the south of the conservation area, there are large gritstone quarries, now disused. Other local stone came from the former Barnsay quarry, and a quarry east of Greenberfield Locks. The town’s mills and cottages are largely built of this local stone, the earlier buildings also being roofed in local stone slate. From the mid-19th century blue Welsh slate was increasingly imported for roofing.

Stone setted footpath at Pickles Hippings

6.2 Prominent in the rural landscape are the dry stone walls, field gate posts and stiles in large single blocks of stone, stone slabs used as footbridges over the becks such as at Pickles Hippings, and stone setts which pave some of the tracks used by the weavers between the mills and cottages.

13 Calf Hall and Gillians Conservation Area, Barnoldswick Appraisal of Special Interest and Character

6.3 The earlier cottages and mills in the area are built of squared, coursed blocks of stone, with coursed rubble more common to the side and rear walls. Windows and doors are invariably surrounded with long stones forming jambs, lintels or sills; the stone was available in large pieces and easily cut when fresh from the quarry. Some of the cottages and farms are whitewashed; on others only the door and window jambs are painted. In the smaller and lower status buildings the jambs are often missing.

6.4 The stone slate roofs are a characteristic feature in the landscape. Their smooth texture and rich brown and grey tones contrast well with the greenery around them. Roofs are heavy and keep the water out well, so that for the most part, roof pitches are low, around 30 degrees or less. Eaves hardly overhang at all, gables (sometimes parapetted and with kneelers) are universal, and chimneys are situated at the ends of the roof. Generally building forms are simple, to suit the large roofing stones.

Typical vernacular farm buildings at Bancrofts

6.5 The later mill workers’ terraced houses of Calf Hall Road are very plain in design, most having no ornamentation at all, others merely a simple stone moulding over the door lintel, or painted gutter corbels. There are small front gardens bounded by low stone walls; the original cast iron railings were removed for the war effort during the Second World War, in common with many local towns.

6.6 The later houses along Manchester Road demonstrate a more decorative and less vernacular style, with features such as bay windows, timbered and painted gables and barge boards, rendered upper walls, canopied porches and decorative ridge tiles, although the constant presence of local stone acts as a unifying element.

Calf Hall and Gillians Conservation Area, Barnoldswick 14 Appraisal of Special Interest and Character

7. Open spaces, landscape features and significant views

7.1 The area is mostly rural in character with intermittent farm buildings and some residential and industrial areas to the east. There are fields on higher land which are open with medium and long distance views, and more intimate valley bottom fields with views constrained by hedges, walls, trees and rising land. There are places which are very industrial and urban with small spaces enclosed and defined by mills and housing.

7.2 The grain of the area tends to run generally west – east following the line of the two streams and four lanes (Calf Hall Lane, Esp Lane, Folly Lane and Old Lane) which serve as access to the out-lying buildings. When in the vicinity of either water course, the landscape is quite intimate and views are limited. But once the higher ground has been gained, significant medium and long distance views can be enjoyed.

7.3 To the south west the land rises sharply up the side of Weets Hill, which helps to enclose the area and provides a very distinctive boundary, along with Letcliffe Park to the east. In the north, the landscape is marginally more gentle with a more industrial feel to the north east as Calf Hall Beck approaches the town centre and the steep valley of Butts Beck.

Farm buildings set within the landscape

15 Calf Hall and Gillians Conservation Area, Barnoldswick Appraisal of Special Interest and Character

7.4 The green spaces are mostly fields being agricultural grazing land which are defined by hedges, trees, fences or dry stone walls. The hedges have trees growing as standards within them giving them height and mass. There are some small woodlands and copses but these are mostly located in the valley bottoms along the lines of the streams. The agricultural land is mostly grazed and forms the working setting for the local farms.

7.5 There are tree preservation orders within the area, mostly confined to the urban/rural fringe which acknowledges the important contribution the trees make to local amenity.

7.6 Folly Lane and Esp Lane are highly characterful having hedgerows with trees growing along them allowing only intermittent views out where there is the occasional break or field gate. Folly Lane intriguingly twists and turns to the left and right as it makes its way up the hill when, on reaching the top, long distance views to the north open up.

7.7 Letcliffe Park is a public park on high ground to the east with the familiar park facilities such as trees, shrubs and children’s play equipment. It was laid out as a formal park in 1902 by Barnoldswick District Council. Between 1988 and 1992 the park was redesigned to create a country park. It is divided into two parts, north and south which are of differing character. The north part is sloping and is laid out in the more formal park style with shrub beds, trees, paths and sitting areas. The south part is more of a recreation ground comprising open areas of mown grass with play equipment and car parking fringed with trees and dry stone walls. Letcliffe Park occupies a hilltop location with wide views to the Bowland Fells and Yorkshire Dales in the north and east and of Weets Hill in the west. The perimeter tree planting partly restricts views but affords shelter from the elements.

7.8 The larger detached and semi-detached houses along the east side of Manchester Road are set in relatively large garden plots which front onto the road. The frontages are generally of walls behind which are hedges, shrubberies and trees which define the east side of the road. When proceeding along Manchester Road, the eye is led by the garden boundaries to views to the west with the countryside now coming right up to the road. Here there are attractive views across the valley towards the Bancroft Mill chimney, farms on the skyline, and views towards and Pen-Y-Ghent in the distance. These views are picturesque, with the mature trees in the valley and the chimney very prominent.

7.9 To the west a natural boundary for the Conservation Area is created by two buildings, Standridge and Standridge House positioned on a ridge marked by hedges and dry stone walls.

Calf Hall and Gillians Conservation Area, Barnoldswick 16 Appraisal of Special Interest and Character

Stone houses on Manchester Road

7.10 A public footpath to Calf Hall Lane begins at Town Head. The boundary between the urban and rural is distinct here, as the path passes from the town straight into the countryside. The path here is narrow and cobbled with dry stone walls on either side and few trees, to the east are allotments, with views towards Calf Hall Shed. The path leads down to the wooded valley of Calf Hall Beck and over a stone slab footbridge called Pickles Hippings. The scene here is attractive and enclosed, with trees overhanging both stream and path.

7.11 The site of the former abbey at Monkroyd Hill is now open fields overlooking the wooded beck valley. To the west and north are glimpses of farmhouses through trees. Beyond, there are views of the drumlin landscape north of the town, dotted with farmhouses and walls, and from the highpoint of the field are superb views towards Ingleborough and Pen-y-Ghent. In the foreground is Fernbank Shed, whose chimney provides a striking focal point in the scene, set against the hills beyond. Westfield Mill chimney can also be seen. To the south west is Weets Hill, whilst to the south Bancroft Mill chimney rises above the houses surrounding it, with the houses and trees along Manchester Road rising to the south east, creating an attractive urban/rural scene.

7.12 The junction between Calf Hall Lane and Calf Hall Road is an attractive space defined by the stone mass of Calf Hall Shed, trees opposite and the 18th century Paddock Laithe. Behind a stone wall, Calf Hall Beck flows out from underneath the mill, and is an attractive feature. The stream flows under the road, between Paddock Laithe and the Butts Mill complex. Some trees follow the stream, helping to soften the urban scene.

17 Calf Hall and Gillians Conservation Area, Barnoldswick Appraisal of Special Interest and Character

8. Negative features

8.1 Stone setts and flags have been removed from many of the local roads and pavements in the area, though some remain around Calf Hall Road, and in the more rural settlements.

8.2 There is some modern development immediately outside the Conservation Area which detracts somewhat from its character. The recent housing development at Cavendish Street can be clearly seen from Manchester Road. It does not have the patina of the older stone buildings and therefore appears at odds with the mellow tones of the older buildings. The backs of the post-war housing estate off Monkroyd Avenue create a harsh and unattractive building line right at the edge of the town, bordering the open countryside off Calf Hall Lane.

8.3 There is very little poor quality development in the Conservation Area and the buildings are generally well maintained. Bancroft Shed was demolished in the late 1970s, and part of the site was used to build 12 houses, which although at odds with their semi- rural setting, do not detract greatly from the scene. Some buildings have inappropriate additions or materials such as flat-roofed extensions and artificial stone, but these are relatively isolated and therefore do not have a significant detrimental effect on the character and appearance of the Conservation Area.

9. Strategy for enhancement

9.1 The reinforcement of the special qualities of the Conservation Area is vital if the designation is to have meaning. This can be achieved in a number of ways: • To address some of the problems of disrepair and inappropriate alteration of buildings through grant aid as part of the Stream & Steam Heritage Economic Regeneration Scheme. • To undertake environmental improvement schemes, including tree planting and landscape management, as part of the wider Stream & Steam Heritage Trail initiative. • By applying high standards in relation to design and materials as part of the normal development control process, to ensure that all new developments preserve or enhance the character and appearance of the Conservation Area. • Street furniture and the materials used on roads, footways and paths should be in character with the area. Historic surfaces should be retained and opportunities taken wherever possible to reintroduce traditional materials where lost.

Pendle Borough Council Planning, Building Control & Licensing Town Hall Market Street Nelson Lancashire BB9 7LG

Tel: 01282 661788 Email [email protected] Website: www.pendle.gov.uk/planning

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