’s

WILDKhaudum is all about elephants. Home to prolific herdsCHILD of these gregarious pachyderms, the 3 842- square-kilometre national park is, even by Namibian standards, little known and remote. Intrigued by tall tales of evil elephants with anger-management issues, Stephen Cunliffe set off to explore the meandering

sandy tracks that criss-cross this wild conservation area in an attempt to discern fact from fiction. 

TEXT & PHOTOGRAPHS BY STEPHEN C UNLIFFE

48 africa geographic • march 2013 www.africageographic.com 49 KHAUDUM NATIONAL PARK KHAUDUM NATIONAL PARK

ucked away in the Kavango stories I heard and read about its ‘badly adrenalin-charged encounters with region on the border with behaved behemoths’. The park’s ele- angry elephants that had turned bad. I Botswana, the gloriously wild and phants were portrayed as ‘unpredictable could scarcely believe my ears and made

undeveloped Khaudum National scoundrels’ and I was told on more than a mental note to treat Khaudum’s fiend- Khaudum campsite Park is the only conservation area one occasion that driving past these ish pachyderms with extreme caution inT Namibia that protects the northern crazed herds would involve ‘risking life during our week-long reconnaissance of Burkea Doringstraat Kalahari sandveld biome. Characterised and limb’. Chatting to the local rangers Namibia’s isolated Bushmanland region. by broken woodland and grassy savanna, when we arrived did little to appease my Digging a little deeper, I slowly unrav- Khaudum Tsau NP the arid terrain is peppered with natural feelings of trepidation. elled the background to this scary – yet NAMIBIA Leeupan clay pans (which remain dry for much of ‘Elephants are the most abundant and strangely alluring – phrase, ‘vein opener’. the year) and a network of ancient river- probably the most deadly animals you’ll Evidently the legend of Khaudum’s Elandsvlakte beds, locally known as omiramba – one of encounter in our park,’ a field ranger at demented elephants traces its roots to which, Kaudom, gave the park its name. Sikeretti camp told me before nonchal- one particularly terrifying nocturnal

With two natural springs and 12 artificial antly throwing out the phrase ‘vein open- encounter with a breeding herd a few Tari Kora BOTSWANA waterholes providing the only reliable er’. My immediate thought was that this years ago. Some Ministry of Environment Omuramba surface water during the dry winter must be some kind of a joke or transla- and Tourism staff were travelling back to months, these life-giving fountains tion error – after all, English wasn’t his camp one evening when they saw an become veritable magnets for the wildlife first language. But the weathered park elephant herd crossing the road up Soncana

– especially elephants – that inhabit this ranger standing before me was deadpan ahead. Coming to a stop, they dimmed Tsoana Sikeretti campsite parched wilderness. and deadly serious. their lights and waited for the elephants N While researching Khaudum ahead of The old-timer went on to explain that to move off. Unbeknown to them a U 15 km our trip, I lost count of the number of the term was indeed coined to describe young bull – not visible to the vehicle’s D3315

occupants – loitered in the bush close by. ABOVE Ostriches thrive in the golden Without warning he charged and grasslands of Khaudum National Park and the nearby Nyae Nyae Conservancy. rammed the 4x4, flipping it over and leaving its occupants stranded. A rescue LEFT Elephants take to the mud for a lengthy party eventually found them, along with wallowing session at Tsoanafontein waterhole. Mud-bathing is a much-enjoyed and necessary their smashed vehicle, the next day. They ritual in this arid environment. were severely shaken but otherwise PREVIOUS SPREAD A herd of Khaudum’s unhurt and their major blood vessels, prolific pachyderms take advantage of one of despite the bull’s best efforts, remained the park’s 14 perennial water points to slake intact. their thirst at the end of another hot, dusty day. We spent a week exploring the sandy byways of Khaudum and our innumerable elephant encounters revealed three in- of Khaudum into the sprawling sights. Firstly, Khaudum’s elephants are 444 000-square-kilometre Kavango– properly wild. Secondly, although the grey Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area giants were undeniably wary of our 4x4s (KAZA TFCA) entrenches corridors and (which I imagine they seldom encounter affords formal protection to the park’s during their wanderings in this desolate large elephant herds as they migrate region), it appears they may have got a beyond its boundaries. Only its border bad rap over the years. And, finally, we with Botswana and a 55-kilometre section avoided any vein-opening encounters! of its western boundary are fenced, so the animals are able to follow their age-old roclaimed a game reserve in 1989 migration routes to and from the water- and given national park status in rich Kavango River and floodplains to the

PFebruary 2007, the recent inclusion north-east. 

50 africa geographic • march 2013 www.africageographic.com 51 TOP T KHAUDUM NATIONAL PARK A reliable 4x4 IP KHAUDUM NATIONAL PARK is essential and travelling in convoy is recommended. The soft-sand driving is heavy on steenbok. The untamed wildlands of and more sensitive birds? Or was there through our campsite in the evening. The fuel and there is no petrol or diesel Khaudum are also a treat for birders, another reason for the deaths? local camp staff informed us that a pride available in the park. The nearest supporting around 320 bird species such Relaxing in a well-located observation of had also been hanging out in the filling stations are in Grootfontein as Bradfield’s hornbill and the sharp- tower watching mud-wallowing wart- area, and the primordial sound of distant (360 kilometres from Sikeretti), Rundu tailed starling. hogs dodge herds of cavorting elephants roaring corroborated this as we sat around and Bagani/Divundu (170 and 150 kilometres respectively from Khaudum After a fruitless detour to the waterless provided hours of ethological entertain- the fire later that night. Sadly the felines camp). Supplies and fresh pro- Elandsvlakte in the west of the park, we ment, but at least half the fun of dis- refused to show themselves during our duce can also only be reliably negotiated our way through a runaway covering Khaudum’s secrets came from stay, but there can be no better way to sourced in these centres. grass fire before arriving ravenous, sooty conquering the soft sand and mastering drift off to sleep than listening to their and reeking of smoke at the picturesque the rugged 4x4 trails that meander guttural calls resonating across the Tari Kora waterhole. Enjoying a tasty through this arid park. Khaudum wildlands. brunch of bacon and eggs while warthogs The pick of the game-drive options in the next moved in, eager to quench its and elephants wallowed barely 50 metres fter three rewarding days in the the north was a full-day circuit from thirst. The procession of thirsty animals from our table was a special experience. south, we left our hyaena-frequented Khaudum campsite along the predom- visiting Tsoanafontein was a spectacle After appeasing my rumbling stomach, Acampsite at Sikeretti and headed inantly dry Tclabasche drainage line, reminiscent of Etosha, but in a far lone- I opted to forgo a siesta in favour of a stint north. Khaudum campsite, thoughtfully taking in Doringstraat, Leeupan (we saw lier context. in the shady hide overlooking the water- located on a ridge overlooking the dry plenty of tracks, although the lions The next morning we refilled the cool- hole. A slender mongoose darting out of Kaudom watercourse, was a spectacular themselves eluded us), Tsau and Burkea This makes Khaudum one of the few After spending the morning settling er box, packed a picnic and made our its hole to retrieve a dead dove caught my place to spend a couple of nights. Game before returning to the grassy Kaudom wildlife refuges where large herds of ele- into the basic campsite at Sikeretti, we way north from Sikeretti, taking in the attention and got me thinking… Over the sightings in the omuramba were better riverbed and camp. These last two water phants, along with endangered species opted for a short drive to a nearby water- waterholes at Soncana, Shiambi and course of our first days in the park we had than those further south and these, com- points were especially productive for like , can still roam free- hole. As we whiled away the afternoon in Omuramba. Aside from the ubiquitous seen an inordinate number of dead doves bined with the sensational views from our elephant viewing, with almost obscene ly. It’s worth noting though that this the well-positioned hide overlooking the elephant herds, we came across inquis- and starlings around the water points and elevated site, gave the northern camp an numbers congregating around the trough. ‘open-park system’ means that game Tsoanafontein water point, I was over- itive giraffes, families of stately , drinking troughs. Seeing yet more evid- intoxicating feel that demanded we Watching the grey giants jostle for posi- numbers fluctuate seasonally in accord- come by the reserve’s strong feel of wild- numerous small groups of the rare roan ence of this at Tari Kora made me wonder extend our stay for an extra few nights. tion and assert their dominance over ance with when and where the most ness. Large herds of elephants, roan, antelope (Khaudum is considered a whether something might be wrong with Herds of blue wildebeest, gemsbok and each other as well as any thirsty antelope recent rains have fallen. But when we vis- kudus and warthogs were drawn to the Namibian stronghold for this uncommon the water. Could the contamination level elephants grazed on the grasslands below, that ventured too close produced spell-

ited, the elephants were most certainly in life-sustaining borehole before us. As species), not to mention the majestic be so low that it only affected the smaller while a pair of side-striped jackals flitted binding scenes and intriguing insights  residence. soon as one group finished its mudbath, gemsbok, imposing eland and diminutive Spectacle for one at Nyae Nyae ABOVE Visitors need to be completely ituated deep within Bushmanland and light years from the (relatively) well-trodden Namibian safari circuit, Nyae Nyae Conservancy is a self-sufficient and a fully equipped 4x4 place not many people have heard of, much less visited. But its gigantic seasonal pan overflowing with flamingos – a stone’s throw south is essential to successfully negotiate S Khaudum’s deep, sandy tracks. of Khaudum – is an enchanting prospect. Nearly two kilometres wide and brimful with these leggy birds, the watery wilderness of Nyae Nyae is reminiscent of the pink-carpeted pans for which East Africa is justifiably famous. Yet, unbeknown to many southern African nature Water is such a precious commodity here, especially during the dry season, that as aficionados, we have a similarly iconic flamingo-drenched spectacle in our own backyard! soon as one herd departs the waterhole Aside from the thousands of flamingos, the pan was alive with a diverse array of ducks, geese, coots and assorted waders. As I sat and the next one invariably moves in. absorbed the spectacle before getting down to some serious birding, an avian disturbance drew my attention to the far side of the water. Raising my binoculars for a more careful examination of the ruckus revealed a number of spotted hyaenas trundling into the shallows where they retrieved the spiral-horned remains of an old bull. The feeding hyaenas and strutting flamingos completed a picture-perfect wilderness scene, but what made it especially memorable was the rare privilege of not having to share it with another soul.

52 africa geographic • march 2013 www.africageographic.com 53 KHAUDUM NATIONAL PARK

into animal behaviour that kept us – BELOW We treated Khaudum’s big bulls with the along with a handful of other privileged utmost respect and they responded by ensuring Pack your bags that we were spared any ‘vein-opening’ incidents! When to go Starting in November wilderness explorers – enthralled. BOTTOM A herd of majestic gemsbok keep a and lasting until April, Khaudum experi- solated, extremely wild and rarely wary eye on our progress from across the dry ences roughly 450 millimetres of rain Kaudom watercourse. Vehicles are few and far annually. Winter temperatures drop to Ivisited, Khaudum is Namibia’s ‘for- between in this remote wilderness. seven degrees Celsius during July with an gotten wilderness’. Its remote location, average maximum of 38 degrees, but can rudimentary tourist infrastructure and reach 45 degrees in summer. It is general- demanding driving conditions ensure ly accepted that the dry winter months that only the most dedicated and from June to October are the best time adventurous wildlife enthusiasts un- to visit. dertake the challenge and experience Getting there There are two access the park’s virtues. In Khaudum ele- points. From the south, use the C44 to phants typically outnumber tourists Tsumkwe before swinging onto the 100 to one, rendering it a raw and soul- D3315 for 59 kilometres to reach ful place where nature lovers who are Sikeretti. If you’re approaching from the allergic to the crowds of southern north, take the slow-going Katere Road Africa’s more accessible game parks can for 57 kilometres to reach Khaudum thrive. camp. A fully kitted-out 4x4 vehicle is According to warden Dries Alberts, mandatory due to the heavy sand, espe- ‘Khaudum National Park was estab- cially north of Dussi. lished with conservation in mind and Where to stay There are basic camp- not for cash generation. This simple ing facilities at Sikeretti and Khaudum, guiding characteristic gave birth to the which offer water and firewood, but not true wilderness feel that embraces one’s much else. The water is said to be suitable soul when visiting the park. It is wild, for human consumption, but we carried and we want to keep it like that.’ our own drinking water and used the I couldn’t agree more. If you are borehole water for bathing and washing enamoured by elephants and relish up only. Tsumkwe Country Lodge, oper- exploring untamed Africa, Khaudum ated by Namibia Country Lodges, offers certainly won’t disappoint. Ed’s note: Numerous attempts 21 guest units and a campsite with a con- were made to find out venient location midway between the more about the mysterious Nyae Nyae Conservancy and Khaudum. dove deaths Cunliffe noted but, Visit www.namibialodges.com for further at the time of going to press, information, or contact tsumkwe@ncl. very little data had come to com.na to make a booking. light. We’ll be monitoring the situation closely.

54 africa geographic • march 2013