THE 23.01.16 p.14 on anadventure holiday Push your boundaries call of the wild inside: snow traveller special p.6 through Japan’s secret south A luxurytrain journey on the right track

p.9 from toLapland Thailand Bed downinatreehouse, take a bough 8-page supplement featuring destinationreports, hotels andkit p.10 in theHungarian capital bathsandmoreThermal 48 hoursinbudapest

p.13 Australia’s wine country On thebeer trail in Western grain of truth

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Discover a true blend of life and spice in this exceptional tour of Vietnam and Cambodia.

Experience the French fl avour of z Visits to Angkor, Phnom Penh, the Hanoi’s and Saigon’s pavement cafes Forbidden City, Ho Chi Minh’s and tree-lined avenues. Then explore mausoleum, Saigon and the Cu-Chi ancient temples and civilisations in tunnels Cambodia, all whilst enjoying the best of Indo-Chinese cuisine. z Take a leisurely cruise aboard a converted Chinese junk in the Selected departures from March to limestone archipelago of Halong November 2016, the price includes: Bay and a full-day tour and cruise along the Mekong River delta z Return fl ights z Escorted by an experienced tour z Four and fi ve-star hotel manager accommodation with breakfast, plus fi ve meals

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3430 Terms and Conditions: Prices are per person, based on two sharing and subject to availability. Prices correct as of 21.01.16 at 09:00 and based on a telephone booking. Additional entrance costs may apply. Operated by and subject to booking conditions of Riviera Travel, Abta V4744 Atol 3430, a company independent of Independent Print Ltd. Riviera Travel, New Manor, 328 Wetmore Rd, Burton upon Trent, Staff s, DE14 1SP. Fax 01283 742301. Image used in conjunction with Riviera Travel. ABTA No. V4744 Simon Calder The man who pays his way

Tangled up in red tape by your holiday firm?

Travel is tough enough without travel firms making it trickier. Yet the UK’s two biggest tour operators, plus a top long-haul company, have been causing needless stress and distress for their customers by making absurd demands on red-tape issues such as passport expiry dates. The law for travelling to Europe is clear. British passports are valid in any EU country up to and including the expiry date. But Thomson chose to ignore this simple fact. Its website, travel agency and call-centre staff insisted that passports must be valid for at least six months after the return date, regardless of destination. A reader contacted us on behalf of an elderly relative who has planned one final holiday in Tenerife next month, after which she has no plans to travel. Her passport expires in May, which presents no legal problem. Yet Thomson staff insisted she would need a new one, and urged her to pay extra for a fast-track renewal. “Is this correct?” wonders the perplexed reader. No, it’s plain wrong. A few Thomson destinations demand extra validity, but not worst-case scenario to cover all eventualities Turn the page: travel show “sufficient funds for length of stay”. Some those chosen by the vast majority of customers. and is not intended as a standard requirement companies should not nations outside Europe demand that you dem- Thomson has agreed to change its tune. “To for travel per se.” Without straying into one demand extra passport onstrate your financial viability to deter possible help customers, we are making this guidance of the many areas beyond my competence, I validity on EU trips burdens on the state. But immigration officials clearer on our website,” the firm tells me. think it perhaps unwise to include anything ANDY RAIN/EPA from EU nations never ask for such proof. “not intended as a standard requirement” in They also need “at least two blank visa pages” a standard legally binding contract. in their passport. Room for a generous appli- Passport to confusion “Upon reflection we appreciate this may be a lit- cation of border stamps is demanded by a few tle misleading. We will be updating this online to countries, mostly in Africa. But not EU nations. A long-established, upmarket operator such remove any ambiguity,” the company now says. I told the company I thought it was talking as Abercrombie & Kent surely wouldn’t put tosh. To its credit, Thomas Cook promptly its customers to such trouble? Well, until this promised to remove the nonsense and replace it week every traveller was contractually obliged ‘Show us the money’ with accurate information. A spokesperson said: to have a passport “valid for six months after “We would like to apologise for any confusion.” the date of your return” – even if they were Thomas Cook has been offering some equally Let me know if you are given questionable going only to France. When I challenged this, odd advice to holidaymakers heading to its most advice by a holiday firm that should know I was told the information “is designed to be popular destination, Spain. First, they must better: [email protected]

23.01.2016 | TRAVELLER |  Travel agenda Where to go and what to know

Download the 48 hours... ebooks The Independent Traveller’s compilation of guides to 20 North American cities is out now, with tips on how to plan your visit. You can 2 also download our guide to 20 European capital cities. Each ebook costs £2.99. independent.co.uk/ebooks

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 | TRAVELLER | 23.01.2016 MY LIFE IN TRAVEL SHELINA PERMALLOO 1

Moving mountains: the Three Sisters GREG WOOD/AFP/GETTY

1. US visa change 5. Island partners 3 Travellers to the United The Guernsey-based airline, States who have visited Iran, Blue Island, has signed a Iraq, Syria or Sudan since franchise agreement with ‘I burst into tears when I 1 March 2011, or who hold Flybe. Blue Island’s ights dual nationality with these to, from and between the countries, will no longer be Channel Islands will soon saw the Blue Mountains’ able to travel with an E sta. It be bookable at ybe.com, is now necessary to apply for and the aircraft will be a visa prior to travel, rebranded. Flybe has similar although certain travellers agreements with Loganair sleepy island in the Indian Ocean. We travelled may be deemed eligible for and Stobart Air. Chef Shelina Permalloo is on a tiny twin-propeller plane and I spent the 5 waiver. travel.state.gov blueislands.com appearing at Destinations: whole time fearing for my life. The runway was The Holiday and Travel so short I can barely believe we landed on it. 2. Flight delay 6. Bite plight Show which is at Olympia London from 4-7 February I expected great Cypriot food in Ayia The launch of the world’s The mosquito-borne Zika (destinationsshow.com) Napa but didn’t get any. longest ight, on Emirates virus is now spreading in the I went when I was 21 and it turned out to be the from Dubai to Panama City Caribbean, according to worst food experience of my life. Everything (pictured), has been delayed Canadian health o cials, was deep-fried, the staple was chicken kiev and by two months. The link was who warn of local transmis- Going to Mauritius for the rst time was there was nothing fresh or green for miles. due to start on 1 February, sion in Martinique and Haiti. very surreal. but has now been deferred Zika is similar to dengue fever My family are Mauritian and I  rst went aged Barcelona brings out my creative side. to 31 March. The airline says in both symptoms – fever, 12 . I felt very culturally aligned to it but had no I love the architecture and all the colours. I’ve it has been delayed “in order rash, joint pain and conjuncti- real idea of what to expect. It was greener than been so many times, most recently with my to fully receive all regulatory vitis – and the fact that no I imagined and I remember seeing beautiful mum and sister for my 30th birthday. We rented codeshare approvals from vaccination is available. Preg- women in colourful saris walking along the an apartment and spent four days wandering the wider Central and Latin nant women are advised not roadside with baskets on their heads. Sadly, I around and stu ng ourselves with tapas. America region”. to travel to a ected regions. didn’t look quite so glamorous. The humidity emirates.com bit.ly/ZikaNHS made my hair go huge – I looked like a member Eating cow brains wasn’t very pleasant. of the Supremes. I tried it in Paris and it looked like grey scrambled 3. Heathrow less 7. Kingdom come eggs. That’s the most bizarre food I’ve ever tried 7 Childhood caravan holidays instilled a but I’ll give most things a go. Kangaroo was quite A family of four can now Warwick Castle will open great love of the British countryside. nice and crocodile was like a cross between travel at weekends on the 28 family friendly lodges on The whole family, including my uncle and aunt, chicken and  sh. Like monk sh with a twist. Heathrow Express for £22 its grounds from 1 July. Set who’d always cook huge quantities of food and return, so long as they book in woodland, they will sleep pack it into industrial-style pots, would squeeze My best souvenir? Meat cleavers. 90 days in advance. The one- up to  ve guests and feature into a caravan and set o to explore. We went to I bought some for myself and my brother from way adult fare is at an all-time medieval ourishes as well places like Norfolk and Cheddar Gorge . a market in Mauritius for 40p, but I was really low of £5.50 one-way, and as TVs, wet rooms and wi- . worried that customs would stop me when I got accompanying under-16s Overnight stays will start at Thai cuisine had a huge impact on me. back to London. travel free at all times. But the £203 per lodge, including I  rst visited Thailand during MasterChef. We corresponding 90-day breakfast in the banqueting went to Chiang Mai in the north to do a series I love the So tel hotel in Essaouira. midweek fare has almost hall and two days’ access to of challenges, including cooking on an opium Not just because it’s beautiful and located right doubled to £12.10 one-way. the castle and its attrac- estate and preparing a banquet for royalty. Thai on the waterfront, but because there’s a man heathrowexpress.com tions. warwick-castle.com cuisine blends hot and salty, sweet and sour like whose job it is to walk around spraying the scent no other. of orange blossom everywhere. Essaouira is a 4. Baltic tunnel? 8. Suffragette city Moroccan  shing village so the whi of sardines The Blue Mountains made me cry. can be pretty potent and orange blossom is my Finland and Estonia have The Houses of Parliament We drove from Sydney and I burst into tears the favourite smell in the whole world. launched a study to dig a are running a season of moment I looked out at those peaks, shrouded 8 57-mile rail tunnel beneath Su ragette-themed tours. in mist and scented by thousands of eucalyptus My night in Amsterdam sends shivers the Baltic between their Blue Badge-guide-led visits trees. I could see dozing koalas in the branches. down my spine. capitals – nearly twice as called “From Petitions to The most famous spot is the Three Sisters, a trio We arrived without anywhere to stay but met long as the Channel Tunnel. Prime Minister: A Short of craggy sandstone formations that Aborigines a chap who harangued us into taking a room. It The total cost of the link is History of Women in Parlia- believe are siblings turned to stone. It remains looked like the kind of place where somebody estimated at around £8bn, ment” will run on Saturdays one of the most moving experiences of my life. had died. There was a sink in the corner and and the plan assumes that in February and March, and when I brushed my teeth everything I spat out the EU will pay around 40 on some Wednesdays. The I enjoy  ying. went through the plughole and straight on to per cent of the cost. 90-minute tours cost £25. It’s the perfect time to switch o , but I didn’t the  oor. We left the next morning. bit.ly/BalticTunnel parliament.uk/visiting enjoy the  ight from Mauritius to Rodrigues, a Interview by Nick Boulos

23.01.2016 | TRAVELLER | 5 Japan Slow train, hot springs

All aboard for the island of Kyushu on a route less travelled. Leslie Woit rides the rails in style

lay tiled roofs glisten and silvery mist floats between the peaks of the Minou Sea of Japan HOKKAIDO Mountains. An old man in a rice field (East Sea) waves his cane and a young girl in black JAPAN Cthigh-high stockings smiles from her bike. As our train’s sleek seven carriages pull slowly into the Fukuoka Kurokawa Onsen SHIKOKU station, a little boy named Yuma holds a welcome Yufuin flag. When he’s older, he’ll tell me later, he wants to be a train conductor. Since its maiden journey in 2013, the Seven Stars Nagasaki Kumamoto Mount train – a luxurious mini-cruise on rails – has gen- Aso erated its share of interest in lesser-known Kyushu, Amakusa Minou the third largest of Japan’s islands. With a sub-tropi- East Islands China Mountains cal climate, a direct flight from Helsinki starting Sea Paci c in May, and favourable exchange rate, it’s a good KYUSHU Ocean time to find out more. Indeed, my six days – by coach, excursion train, and the luxurious Seven Stars itself – goes by in the click of a chopstick.

The hot-spring speckled island of Kyushu is �� miles slightly smaller than Switzerland, so the first two-hour train journey from Hakata covers a ­decent chunk of it. The Limited Express Yufuin elderly Japanese ladies in the outdoor onsen and No Mori (which stops at a limited number of sta- face the day refreshed and zen. The next days will tions rather than operating with speed restrictions) be coach-bound, southward to Kurokawa Onsen, is one of nine excursion trains built by Seven Stars’ a higgledy-piggledy pedestrianised village of cob- J R Trains since Japan’s railways were privatised bled pathways and traditional ryokans clustered in the 1980s. It weaves slowly past light industry on the edge of the rushing Chikugo River. Yukata, and through the rice fields and fruit orchards geta sandals and parasols are de rigueur here, and known as the Garden of Kyushu. We are heading the streets are full of couples and families coming for Yufuin, prime onsen territory, home to the to and from public bathing houses and taking tea ­majority of Japan’s hot-spring sources. I alight and in inviting shops. promptly peel off my shoes and socks, plunging From the decadence of hot springs to Kyushu’s knee-deep into a steamy mineral-rich foot bath geographic pinnacle, we are just 20km from smack on the platform’s edge. Heaven. Mount Aso – one of the world’s largest active vol- Surrounded on all sides by mountains, Yufuin canoes. Topping out at 1,592m, Aso is meant to steams like a bowl of miso soup in summer, but be shaped like a lying Buddha with an (occasion- my cool autumn visit is timed for Japanese maple ally) steaming penis. At least that’s what I’m told trees in full red flush. I hike between rice fields by my guide. Heavy rain and cloud obscure this and climb stairs to a splendid cedar tree – 13 metres stirring moment, though the surrounding 125km around and 1,000 years old – the focus of a Shinto ring of caldera makes an impressive cameo. shrine dedicated to effacing greed. The watery Over the rise, lunch at a roadside restaurant – ablutions that begin any visit to a shrine – left hand, delicious shitake mushroom and beef barbecue Water feature: Climbing the six-storey donjon, or great tower, right hand, mouth and finally the handle of the with a cold beer for around Y2,500 (£15) – proves riverside houses offers a dramatic panorama little changed over water ladle itself – neatly wash away my disap- excellent value. From a tableside window, the in Kumamoto the centuries. pointment at having only just missed the town’s Shira River runs furious and inky black with vol- Sunao Chiba / corbis South of Kumamoto, history gets personal. annual October Beef Eating Screaming Compe- canic ash sludge, the product of two dramatic ­Nagasaki is just 80km as the crow flies from the tition. (No idea. I’ll just have to come back.) eruptions in as many years. protected inland waterways of the Amakusa After another random foot bath – they’re Coastal drives are beautiful; persimmon fruit ­Islands, connected by a bridge to the mainland. ­everywhere, and most welcome – I peek through hang heavy and orange from leafless branches, In the sleepy fishing village of Utako, baskets of the door of one of a dozen rustic onsens that dot and pearl cultivation and seaweed farms poke fish hang to cure and cats laze in streets undis- Yufuin, somewhat shabby and priced for the people their poles above tranquil water as we near turbed by modern life. Inside a tea shop, an at 100 yen (£1.20). I delay gratification in favour Kumamoto Castle. Built during the Edo era, 86-year-old woman offers me bean-paste sweets of a later soak in the steamy mineral pools at my Kumamoto is considered one of Japan’s three and, when asked, recalls how she and her family hotel, followed by an evening feast of delicious great castles, its curved stone walls and saw the mushroom cloud explode over Nagasaki bungo, Kyushu’s version of Kobe beef, and a deep, wooden overhangs designed to repel attack from in 1945, taking cover from they knew not what. tatami-scented sleep. samurai warriors. Fires gutted the mostly 17th- The next day’s visit to a Nagasaki reborn – a Rising before dawn, I slip into my yukata – a century fortifications and its vaulted walls hectic city of trams, shopping arcades and pachinko casual version of the kimono – to join a group of have been largely reconstructed with concrete. (pinball) parlours – is all the more poignant. The

 | TRAVELLER | 23.01.2016 TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

Getting there British Airways (0344 493 0787; ba.com) ies from Heathrow to Fukuoka, via Tokyo, with its code- share partner JAL; returns start at £519. A new Finnair service between Helsinki and Fukuoka starts from 7 May, also bookable via British Airways.

Staying there Applications open in April for Seven Stars trips between October 2016 and February 2017 trips (cruisetrain- sevenstars.com). A four-day, three- night journey (two nights on the train and one at a ryokan) starts at Y530,000 (£3,110) with accommoda- tion, sightseeing, guiding and internal transfers. Prices for an overnight journey on the train start at Y250,000 (£1,470) all inclusive.

More information seejapan.co.uk

Star quality: the There are even favourite tunes to accompany you: luxurious train oddball requests – from Eric Clapton to Guns N’ (above); Kurokawa Roses – are duly met by the in-train violinist and Onsen (top) pianist, while Japan rolls slowly by. STUDIONEXT HIROYKI MAYUZUMI; Demand for these delights is high. There is a MASASHI HAYASAKA/CORBIS lottery for bookings which, according to Simon Shimizu-Metcalfe of J R Trains, attracts 33 times more applicants than spaces for standard berths, and 316 times for the most expensive suite – lav- ish digs that come in at more than £1,800 per person for the two-day journey. Interested? The odds may smile on you, as international guests receive preferential odds by 2 to 1. I pry myself away from smiling butlers and poised chopsticks for a much vaunted visit to Kak- iemon porcelain workshop in Arita. Only Seven Stars passengers thus far have gained regular entry Nagasaki Bomb Museum displays a horri c col- Japanese diligence, attention to detail – and a bank- to the renowned atelier, a 15th-generation family lection of nuclear bomb-related exhibits – from blistering investment of Y3bn (£17.5m). There business that produces highly prized ne porce- victims’ clothing and rst-hand medical reports, are rich, dark cherry and pear walls, parquet  oors, lain in wood-fired kilns and a tiny adjacent to a reproduction of the three-metre-high pluto- soft linens and delicate stemware. workshop. Led round by Mr Kakiemon himself, nium bomb, Fat Man, itself. That evening’s Corridors in each carriage are staggered on we observe painstaking kneading, shaping and banquet strikes a suitably macabre note: blow sh, opposing sides better to view the passing coun- hand painting, and tiptoe through the gift shop the infamous and potentially life-threatening deli- tryside. Even standard berths come with where 15cm-tall vases fetch £400. Mr Kakiemon cacy, caps o a day devoted to life and death. surprisingly spacious en suites – loo, basin and admits to me with charming modesty that even Soon it’s time to board the Seven Stars. The a cypress-panelled shower – as well as a writing he “eats o the seconds”. overnight journey cuts a slow, regal sweep through desk and two cosy single beds. Deluxe Suite A Back on board, my bathroom earns renewed northern Kyushu. Crystal  utes of Taittinger slosh at the back (or front, depending on direction of respect: the  owery heptagon al basin was turned, satisfyingly in the Blue Moon bar car as the loco- travel) is the ultimate blowout: bedroom, sitting baked and hand-painted according to ancient tra- motive cranks into action, and gaggles of adults room and a full  oor-to-ceiling, wall-to-wall pic- dition by the skilled craftspeople of Arita. To spit and children wave us on enthusiastically at every ture window. or not I wonder, toothbrush poised, when through crossing. Japan’s rst luxury sleeper train and the Meals are delicious, elegant a airs – one Japa- my window, I see 11-year-old Yuma, waving and smallest luxury train on earth – 30 passengers, nese, one French – and wine is both free and bowing as he’s done each week since 2013, a new nine sta , seven carriages – is catered with typical  owing, served by attentive, white-gloved sta . tradition in a very old land.

23.01.2016 | TRAVELLER | 7 Inside travel EUROPE’S QUIETEST STATIONS Capital connections Need more elbow room? Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries highlight little-used train terminals

he news that London’s Waterloo station Chisinau has a plaque recalling the Russian Herzegovina has just seven departures a day. is set to top 200 million rail passengers ‘There are troops and Bulgarian volunteers who, in 1877, With no trains leaving between 11.19am and a year propels it to the top of the league city rail departed from the station “to liberate the 3.40pm, station staff enjoy a four-hour break. table of Europe’s busiest rail terminals. Balkan peoples from the Ottoman yoke”. A Only one train a day from Sarajevo ventures However,T there are plenty of capital-city railway stations in second plaque recalls “the revolutionary struggle beyond the borders of the country: the 10.43am stations around Europe that still offer crowd- of the workers and soldiers” who tussled for to Zagreb, which usually has just two carriages. free tranquillity. Europe that power after the Russian Revolution in 1917. Three on busy days, but they are rarely more than The main terminal in Moldova’s capital city of have just a With its beautiful Soviet-era Moorish arch and half-full so passengers enjoy space that would Chisinau hardly bustles with passengers. With façade, Chisinau station has a charm entirely be the envy of commuter crowds at Waterloo. less than a score of trains leaving the station each handful of absent at Sarajevo’s main station. And while the There are many European capital city railway day, visitors can often daydream in solitude. Just trains a day’ former boasts trains to far and wide (Moscow, stations with just a handful of trains each day. as Waterloo has its gracious Victory Arch – a Odessa, Bucharest and more), the departure Pristina station in Kosovo has just three daily fine memorial to railway workers who perished boards at the latter are distinctly parochial. The departures. Even the star of the day, the early in the Great War – so the station pavilion at sole railway station in the capital city of Bosnia- morning service to Skopje, doesn’t pull crowds. It rarely has more than a handful of passengers, who can stretch out in its two carriages. In the Albanian capital, Tirana, the railway station was so little valued it was recently swept OFFERS away in a huge urban renewal project. Residents of the capital can still take the bus to nearby Kashar, from where seven trains each day trundle down to the port of Durres. But Tirana now ranks alongside Andorra La Vella, Valletta Lake Garda and Vaduz as one of Europe’s trainless capitals. Vaduz may not have trains, but Liechtenstein does. The diminutive Alpine principality is Eight days from £���pp traversed by one of Europe’s main rail routes: the line from Zurich to Innsbruck, which carries sleek red Railjets bound for Budapest and the romantically named Alpine Pearls night train to Belgrade. One of its handful of stations affects capital city connections by calling itself Schaan- Vaduz, but it is fair and square in Schaan, from where passengers need to catch a bus to Vaduz. Schaan-Vaduz does enjoy the minor distinction of having only international departures. The station has 18 trains a day on weekdays, all heading to Switzerland or Austria. The curiosity of hosting only international departures is reserved for a rare elite of stations, including those at Monaco-Monte Carlo (where all rails lead to France) and Vatican City – where Stazione del Vaticano lies at the end of a line running from Rome into Vatican territory. The Vatican station is the perfect antidote to Waterloo and – in terms of passenger numbers – the least busy capital-city terminal in Europe. Until recently, the Vatican railway was reserved for papal expeditions and occasional pilgrimage trains, but Pope Francis has brought a breath of fresh air to Vatican transport. Last September, he opened the railway and his private station to the public, since when it has been used by Stay on the sun-blessed shores of this, Italy’s largest and most spectacular lake. just a dozen trains. A service runs on certain Some 50 miles long, and 11 miles across, Lake Garda’s clear blue waters are backed by the wooded slopes of craggy mountains, and fringed by stylish, elegant Ticket to ride: Chisinau station Saturdays from the Vatican station to Castel resorts that have drawn visitors for over 100 years. (above); Vatican railway (top) Gandolfo, where the Barberini Gardens and DUMITRU DORU/epa; FILIPPO MONTEFORTE/AFP/Getty the museum at the Pope’s summer palace are Selected departures between May and • Seven nights’ bed-and-breakfast now open to the public. October 2016, the price include: accommodation at the three-star The 2016 departure dates of this train have Hotel Modena, Malcesine (half-board yet to be announced, but the autumn 2015 • Return fl ights to Italy upgrade available at a supplement) programme sealed the papal station’s status as a • Return airport-to-hotel transfers • The services of an experienced rare railway excursion. The quiet station at the tour manager Vatican has none of the commercial bustle of Waterloo, although there is a duty-free shop. Unfortunately, it is reserved only for residents Call: ���� ��� ���� quoting IND of Vatican City. or visit independent.co.uk/traveloff ers Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries are the editors Terms and Conditions: Prices are per person, based on two sharing and subject to availability. Prices correct as of 14.01.16 at 09:00. Single supplements apply. Standard landline charges apply. Operated by and subject of ‘Hidden Europe’ magazine (hiddeneurope.co to booking conditions of Newmarket Air Holidays Ltd, ABTA V7812. ATOL 2325, a company independent of Independent Print Ltd. Image used in conjunction with Newmarket Air Holidays Ltd. .uk). A new edition of their book ‘Europe by Rail: the Definitive Guide for Independent Travellers’ will be published in June (europebyrail.eu)

 | TRAVELLER | 23.01.2016 The Big Six By Treehouse stays Aoife O’Riordain

Lost Meadow Treepod Cornwall O ering the back-to-nature experience in style, this quirky room for two is set on a farm on the edge of Bodmin Moor. Suspended above the forest  oor, it is built from recycled, sustainable materials with minimum environmental impact. Keemala Thailand There’s a camp-style kitchen for rustling up reside meals and a shed housing simple bathing Of all the rooms at Keemala, Phuket’s newest resort which opened in December, the seven Tree Pool Houses are the ones to book. These futuristic- with washbasin, shower and loo. looking bosky dwellings are inspired by a mythological clan, the We-Ha (Sky) people, who are believed to have built their homes suspended from the Brook Park Farm, Panters Bridge, ground. The two-storey villas are dotted amid lush vegetation, streams and fountains in the hotel grounds, and when you are not gazing at the views, Mount Bodmin, Cornwall. Book one of the star attractions is the holistic spa. through Canopy & Stars (0117 204 10/88 Moo 6, Nakasud Road, Kamala, Kathu District, Phuket ,  ailand (00 66 763 587 77; keemala.com). Doubles from 7830; canopyandstars.co.uk). Doubles 30,000  ai baht (£565), B&B. from £95, self-catering.

Treehotel Châteaux dans les Arbres Hapuku Lodge & Treehouses Post Ranch Inn Sweden France New Zealand United States Some of the country’s most highly regarded There’s more than a touch of whimsy in these Kaikoura, on South Island’s east coast, is Perched on a ridge 1,200ft above the ocean, Post architects lent their talents to these four treehouses scattered amid forestry in the renowned for its marine life. With its views of the Ranch Inn is the ultimate coastal wilderness treehouses set amid a pine forest near Lulea in Domaine de Puybéton estate. Fashioned to look Paci c and the snow-dusted peaks of the getaway in Big Sur, just o California’s scenic Lapland – just south of the Arctic Circle. Of like mini-châteaux, they sleep from two to six. Kaikoura Ranges, one of the most distinctive Paci c Coast Highway. So, it’s no surprise that the six extraordinary structures suspended The Cabane Spa Puybeton (sleeps two), is a places to stay is Hapuku Lodge & Treehouses. its seven treehouse rooms are luxurious. The above the forest  oor, the UFO, reached by a study in rustic restraint, while everything in the Here, the treehouse takes a contemporary triangular structures are buried in pine trees, set retractable staircase, is most outlandish, while two-bed Cabane Milandes is created from wood. departure, poking up through the canopy of above the forest  oor, with views of the the Bird’s Nest and Mirror Cube blend Guests can hole up, wander the grounds or gaze native Kanuka trees. Guests spend their days mountains. Inside there are wood-burning stoves ingeniously with their surroundings. Facilities at the Dordogne from the in nity pool. catching waves or spotting whales and dolphins. and a skylight so you can fall asleep watching the include a restaurant, bar and sauna. Domaine de Puybeton, Nojais-et- Station Road, Hapuku, Kaikoura, New stars twinkle above your head. Edeforsväg 2 A, Harads, Sweden Clotte, Dordogne, France (00 33 6 30 64 Zealand (00 64 3 319 6559; hapukulodge 47900 Highway 1, Big Sur, California, (00 46 928 10300; treehotel.se). Doubles 26 00; chateaux-dans-les-arbres.com). .com). Doubles from NZ$1,092.50 (£500) US (001 831 667 2200; postranchinn.com). from 4,700 Swedish krona (£376), B&B. Doubles from €240 (£183), B&B. half board. Doubles from $1,175 (£784), B&B.

23.01.2016 | TRAVELLER | 9 48 HOURS IN ...

Key POLAND CZECH LANDMARK REP SLOVAKIA GOMB UTICA VESO SULLO UTCA AUSTRIA CA UTC CA A Budapest HUNGARY

BECSI UT Margaret Budapest INFORMATION ROMANIA REVESZ UT CROATIA NEPFURDO UT Split in half by the Danube, the Hungarian capital CA SERBIA Margaret CA ROBERT LAJOS UTCA DRAVA Island UTCA o ers an intriguing combination of history and KAVOLY KORUT Angyalfold TUZER UT CULTURAL culture, both historic and modern. By Nick Boulos HIGHLIGHT T CA AR 23 BESSE CA N VACI UT YEI U TCA LEHEL UT Public DOZSA A C swimming IPOL CARL LUTZ RAKP UT Y UTCA GY O pool O Cross over: Szechenyi RG LE S Y UTCA L L UTCA A E Chain Bridge spans HOTEL C VAGANY

H PAUL THUYSBAERT T the Danube A 22 FRANK M Szent A R Istvan Park City G CSANADY U I T Park

R A TCA K

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Felheviz A

R FOOD & T RADNO Ujlipotvaros DRINK TI MIKLOS UT FERNINAN 21 CA RUT Margaret D HID PODMANICZKY UTCABAJ Bridge T SZ ZA UT AR T ISTVAN KORUT Kiraly CA MARGITBaths KO KP Nyugati RA CA Station T SHOPPING A UTCA A U KACS JOZSEF KS CA IZEBELLA UTCA Terezváros K MI TEREZ K L

ANTALL FA MARK GNAC UT O ORUT UTCA CSENGER BEM CA NAGY I 18 Gatwick, while Wizz Budapest was born in palace, the Four CSALOG ANY UTCA RA Y UTICA Y UTCA

FO UT FO Szabadsag Air (0907 292 0102; 1873 with the union of Seasons hotel (3) at K RASS DAMJANICH UT P 20 ND A Square A wizzair.com)  ies Buda on the west bank Szechenyi Istvan R

HOLD UT HOLD CA T

from Birmingham, and Pest on the east. 5-6 (00 36 1 268 6000; NAGY ROTTENBILLER UT Glasgow, Liverpool The two districts were fourseasons MEZO A Lipotvaros CA TC

10 S BAJCSY ZSILINSZKY UTCA U and Luton. Ryanair rst linked in 1849 by .com) has all the luxury Z LY E UT A 4 19 C CA IR (0871 246 0000; the iconic Szechenyi you’d expect – comfy 9 H K A SZTEHL C E Opera T N U Szechenyi ERZSEBET B ryanair.com) Chain Bridge. Long rooms, attentive Y DO I House CA R Istvan ter ROZ  ies from Bristol, before that, however, service and a fancy GABOR O A K ARAN Y JANOS UTCA P 16 SAA Manchester and the area was occupied restaurant – but it’s 8 A KORUT R Matthias T UTCA

15 UTCASAS Stansted. by the Turks, who the river views that are RAKPART 3 Why go now? Church Chain The weather might Flights arrive at stayed for more than really worth shouting Sandor Bridge ZRINYI be chilly, but the Ferenc Liszt airport, 150 years from 1526. about. Doubles from 14 Deák Erzsebetváros A Palace UTC Ferend NAGY NY Hungarian capital named after the Today, Buda 80,612Ft (£196), CA HA Andras Hadik J ATTILA UT tev DO is warming up with much-loved composer and Pest retain room only. 5 DIOFA UT Monument 1 some of its most who died in 1886, their individual Across the water in Erzsebet station Siklo KAZINCZY CA interesting events. located 22km south- personalities : the Pest is the riverside Square CA CA DI UT funicular UTCA BEZERE The annual Farsang east of the city centre. former is atmospheric Art’otel (4) at Bem 7 13 carnival continues Public bus 200E and medieval, while Rakpart 16-19 (00 36 1 DEAK FERENC UT Royal 2 RAKOCZI UTCA NEPSZINHAZ UT until 10 February will take you from the latter is modern 487 9487; artotels Palace F 17 VA CA with balls and parades outside the terminal and bohemian, with .com) with 166 B CI UTCA O PETOFI SANDOR UTCA Castle R N held across the city, to Kobanya-Kispest long boulevards, ring contemporary rooms R Hill T OCSIS UTCA AK BERK closely followed metro station, where roads and interesting decorated with art by P RU A RT 24 CA UT KO by food festivals you can hop on the neighbourhoods. the American SANDOR BRODY Csarrok celebrating the M3 line. Buses depart Together, they form painter Donald Elisabeth negyed mangalica (the native roughly every 8-20 an irresistible whole, Sultan. It’s a short Naphegy LJA UTCA Bridge PESTI JOZSEF GYA Belvaros National UTCA HE JOZS EF curly-haired pig) and minutes between a city that delivers for stroll to the Szechenyi RAOUL ALSO Museum B UTCA the Budapest Fish 4.15am and 12.20am : those seeking history Chain Bridge. B&B R WAL RA K SZE BAROSS UT Festival honouring the total journey time and culture. doubles start at PART CA LE BAR OSS UT CA the popular halaszle to the central Deak The main tourist 45,000 Ft (£107). NB T E Citadella RG ( sh soup). Ferenc ter station information o ce The Maverick CA NAP UTCA UT R RAD is about an hour. is at Suto utca 2 at AK Liberty VAMHAZ KR CA (1) (2) City Lodge (5) P A AY UTCA R Bridge Touch down Purchase a one-way (00 36 1 438 8080; Kazinczy utca 24-26 6 T SOMLOI UTCA LONYAY PRATER UTCA Several airlines  y “transfer ticket”, valid budapestinfo.hu; (00 36 1 700 4598; UTCA ALSOHEGY UTCA

12 SZIGONY UT to Budapest from for one hour, from open 8am to 8pm mavericklodges.com) Gellert Hill KINIZSI

CA the UK. I travelled the machine outside daily). A 48-hour is cheap and cheerful. Danube with British Airways for 530 forints (£1 ). Budapest card, Located in the heart ULL OI UT (0844 493 0787; Alternatively, take providing free of the lively Jewish Belso- CA MARKI UTCA FERENC KORUT UTCA A Ferencvaros 11 ba.com), which  ies a taxi for around public transport Quarter, its rooms KES

KELENHEGYI UT UTC KAROLINA daily from Heathrow. 7,500 Ft/£18. and discounts for are small but stylish, VILLANYI UTCA A SZUIRET L E LILIOM UTCA B SOROKSA Norwegian (0330 828 museums, costs with a minimalist K O Peto BALAZS BELA 0856; Norwegian.com) 7,900 Ft (£19). feel and cityscape T Get your bearings UT R A Bridge B CA and easyJet (0843 Located on a photography. Double VILLANYI UT R CA DAFOKI UTCA I UTCA I UT 104 5000; easyjet. sweeping bend of Check in rooms from 12,650Ft �.�� miles BU CA com) operate from the Danube River, Housed in a former (£30), room only.

10 | TRAVELLER | 23.01.2016 Key 2,­000Ft/£5),­ which POLAND looks at Hungary’s role CZECH LANDMARK REP in the Second World SLOVAKIA GOMB UTICA War. Then,­ head to the VESO SULLO UTCA AUSTRIA riverside for a look at CA UTC CA A Budapest Shoes on the Danube HUNGARY (19),­ a sobering memo-

BECSI UT Margaret INFORMATION REVESZ UT ROMANIA rial to murdered Jews. CA CROATIA NEPFURDO UT Lighten the mood CA SERBIA with a visit to the Margaret CA ROBERT LAJOS UT DRAVA Sunday morning: Hungarian Parlia- Island UTCA KAVOLY KORUT go to church ment building (20) at Angyalfold TUZER UT Half a century in the Kossuth ter 1-3 (00 36 CULTURAL T CA making and decked 1 441 4000; parliament HIGHLIGHT AR 23 BESSE CA out in red marble,­ .hu; 8am to 4pm daily; N VACI UT YEI U the basilica of St tours 2,­000Ft/£5). Its TCA LEHEL UT Public DOZSA Stephen’s (16) at Szent greatest treasure is the A C swimming IPOL CARL LUTZ RAKP Istvan ter 1 (00 36 1 Holy Crown of Hun- UT Y UTCA GY O pool ORG 311 0839; open 9am gary worn by more S Y UTCA L L LE UTCA A E HOTEL C VAGANY to 5pm daily; free) is than 50 kings.

H

T A named after the first 22 FRANK M Szent A king of Hungary. His R Istvan Park City A walk in the park G CSANADY U I T Park mummified right hand At City Park (21),­ Kos

R A TCA Sylvain Sonnet/Corbis K Feeling Hungary: Central Market Hall is full of local produce can be seen in the Holy Karoly utca (open 24 P

Felheviz A R Right Chapel (open hours),­ you’ll find an FOOD & T RADNO Ujlipotvaros DRINK TI MIKLOS UT 10am to 4pm Monday ice rink that’s a boat- FERNINAN 21 bleman Andras ­szimpla.hu; noon to to Saturday; 1pm to ing lake in warmer CA RUT Hadik on horseback 4am daily) is the most 4.30pm Sunday). months,­ as well as Margaret D HID PODMANICZKY UTCABAJ ­before ducking into famous of the city’s ­Vajdahunyad Castle Bridge T SZ ZA UT AR T ISTVAN KORUT Kiraly CA Ruszwurm (8). Dat- “ruin bars” (drinking Out to brunch and the most cele- MARGITBaths KO KP Nyugati RA ing from 1826,­ it’s dens in abandoned Tuck into a traditional brated of Budapest’s CA Station T SHOPPING a cosy café serving buildings). It’s a bus- Hungarian breakfast thermal baths,­ the neo- A UTCA A U CS KS KA JOZSEF CA homemade dobos- tling spot with graffiti (1,­650 Ft/£4) of man- Baroque Szechenyi IZEBELLA UTCA Terezváros K MI TEREZ K torta (550Ft/£1),­ a covered walls and galica sausage,­ cottage Thermal Bath (22) L

ANTALL FA GNAC UT MARK I layered sponge cake ­bizarre knick-knacks. cheese,­ boiled eggs at Allatkerti krt 9-11 O ORUT UTCA CSENGER BEM CA of chocolate and Order a pint of and ratatouille amid (00 36 30 462 8236; NAGY 18 caramel. Continue ­Kazinczy (550Ft/£1),­ the Art Deco splen- szechenyibath.com; CSALOG ANY UTCA RA Y UTICA Y UTCA Take a view

FO UT FO Szabadsag K RASS DAMJANICH UT Gellert Hill (6) stands straight towards Mat- a craft beer that’s dour of Szamos (17) at 6am to 7pm daily; from P 20 ND A Square A R 235m above the city thias Church and brewed locally. Vaci utca 1 (00 36 30 4,­900Ft/£12) has 18

HOLD UTCA HOLD CA T

ZSILINSZKY UTCA NAGY and offers an unri- Fisherman’s Bastion Novel cocktails can 565 5971; szamos indoor and outdoor ROTTENBILLER UT MEZO A valled vantage point (9) ,­ a popular look- be found at Kollazs marcipan.hu; 10am to pools heated to 38C. Lipotvaros TC

10 S BAJCSY U Z LY of the Danube,­ the out where fishermen Bar (3),­ part of the 9pm daily). E UT A 4 19 C CA IR 9 H K A Buda Hills,­ Pest and once sold their catch. Four Seasons hotel SZTEHL C Take a ride E Opera T N U Szechenyi ERZSEBET B Y DO the distant mountain (11am to 1am). The Cultural afternoon Meander along the I House CA R Istvan ter ROZ O GABOR O A ranges. Take a look Lunch on the run Viktoria’s Secret Delve into the darkest Danube and visit Mar- K ARAN Y JANOS UTCA P 16 SAA 8 A KORUT at the old walls of the Enjoy a bowl of Hun- (2,­900Ft/£7) – a chapter of Budapest’s garet Island (23),­ the R Matthias T UTCA

15 UTCASAS RAKPART RAKPART 3 Church Chain citadel,­ built in the garian fish soup sweet tipple of gin,­ history at the House city’s Central Park. 1800s,­ as well as the (2,­180Ft/£5) at Pest- cherry brandy and of Terror (18) at Legenda cruises (00 36 Sandor Bridge ZRINYI 14 Deák Erzsebetváros A Liberty statue. Buda (10) at Fortuna blueberry marmalade ­Andrassy utca 60 (00 1 317 2203; legenda Palace UTC Ferend NAGY NY CA HA utca 3 (00 36 1 225 – is served in a teacup. 36 1 374 2600; terror .hu) cost from 3,­900Ft Andras Hadik J ATTILA UT tev 5 DO DIOF Take a hike 0377; pestbudabistro haza.hu; 10am to 6pm (£9.40) and depart Monument 1 station Erzsebet A UTCA Head to nearby Cas- .hu; noon to 10.30pm Dine with the locals Tuesday to Sunday; from dock No 7 (24). Siklo KAZINCZY CA Square CA DI UT tle Hill,­ the medieval daily),­ a bistro housed Book a table at funicular UTCA BEZERE 7 13 hilltop district that in a former inn. swanky Aszu (14) DEAK FERENC UT was once the seat of at Sas utca 4 (00 Royal 2 RAKOCZI UTCA NEPSZINHAZ UT Palace Hungarian royalty. It Window shopping 36 1 328 0360; F 17 VA CA

B CI UTCA is a charming enclave The best market is ­aszurestaurant.com; O PETOFI SANDOR UTCA Castle R N with galleries,­ design Ecseri Piac (11) at noon to midnight Hill R OCSIS UTCA AK BERK

P RUT stores,­ canary yellow Nagykorosi utca 156 daily),­ where clas- A RT 24 CA UT KO SANDOR houses and a network (open 6am to 3pm sic dishes are given BRODY Csarrok Elisabeth negyed of underground caves Saturdays,­ to 1pm a modern makeover. Naphegy LJA UTCA Bridge PESTI JOZSEF and cellars. Sundays),­ one of the There’s goulash soup,­ GYA Belvaros National UTCA HE JOZS EF RAOUL ALSO Museum Start at Szent largest flea markets too. Mains from B UTCA R ­Gyorgy (7),­ a small in Europe. It’s a lit- 3,­900Ft (£9). WAL RA K SZE BAROSS UT PA CA square between the tle way out but well Down the road at LE RT BAR OSS UT CA NB T Royal Palace and San- worth the effort. No 17 is Café Kor (15) E Citadella RG CA dor Palace,­ the official Closer to the centre (00 36 6 1 311 0053; NAP UTCA UT R RADAY UTCA AK Liberty VAMHAZ KR CA residence of the pres- is the 1897 10am to 10pm Mon- P Central A R Bridge 6 T ident. From here,­ Market Hall (12) at day to Saturday),­ a SOMLOI UTCA LONYAY PRATER UTCA UTCA stroll west along the Vamhaz korut 1-3 relaxed restaurant ALSOHEGY UTCA

12 SZIGONY UT sunken excavations of (6am to 6pm Mon- with an extensive list Gellert Hill KINIZSI

CA Danube the original founda- day to Saturday). It’s of specials including ULL tions before veering packed with Hungar- homemade soups,­ OI UT Belso- CA left along Toth Arpad ian delicacies,­ from hearty Hungarian FERENC KORUT UTCA A Ferencvaros 11 KESMARKI UTCA Setany. Follow this Tokaji wine to paprika mains and stodgy

KELENHEGYI UT UTC KAROLINA VILLANYI UTCA A pedestrianised,­ tree- sausages. puddings. The SZUIRET L E LILIOM UTCA B SOROKSA lined avenue before chicken fillet with K O Peto BALAZS BELA T turning right on to parsley potatoes UTCA R An aperitif A Bridge B VILLANYI UT R Szentharomsag utca. and peach compote CA DAFOKI UTCA Szimpla Kert (13) I UTCA I UT �.�� miles BU CA Pause briefly at at Kazinczy utca 14 (2,­290Ft/£5.50) the statue of no- (00 36 20 261 8669; comes recommended. Hot stuff: Szechenyi Thermal BathJohn Dakers/Eye Ubiquitous

23.01.2016 | TRAVELLER | 11 ROOM SERVICE TIERRA CHILOE, CHILE

Southern star with a refreshing outlook

Reviewed by Holly Williams ou might not expect an angular its current incarnation last September. It is the TRAVEL information on local traditions and she shared a wooden box to t in on the pretty third property in the Tierra chain and, like its few eyebrow-raising myths. Ana delighted in island of Chiloé. But while Santiago- siblings, it encourages exploration as much as ESSENTIALS telling us about Trauco, a lascivious woodland based architect Mobil has created relaxation and has an elegantly rustic charm. troll who gets blamed for unplanned pregnancies. aY striking silhouette, the design references Pack walking boots, not heels. Tierra Chiloé What about that all-inclusive tag? Banish the charming vernacular architecture of the Rates include group day-trips, from hiking San Jose Playa, Castro, thoughts of Brits abroad going mad at the bar local villages: its raised-up structure nods to to pony-trekking – although best of all is island- Chiloé, Chile (00 56 2220 and bu et; this is a classy venture, and the food the pala tos, houses on wooden stilts over hopping on the hotel’s private boat, the Williche 78861; tierrahotels.com) is seriously good (as it should be, given the price water. The building is weather-proofed in the (which means “people of the south” in the tag). It’s a perfect showcase for the island’s traditional way, with shingles made from larch, language of the indigenous Mapuche people). As Rooms µµµµµ excellent seafood, from ceviche to salmon and and with its raised position come views over the well as feasting on freshly caught mussels, cooked Value µµµµµ mussels. There’s a bu et breakfast, and three archipelago – also named Chiloé. on-board and washed down with a pisco sour, our Service µµµµµ courses for lunch and dinner; sta pack This all-inclusive hotel initially opened under trip included dolphin-spotting and sea-kayaking. ridiculously sumptuous picnics for excursions, di erent ownership in 2012, but relaunched in The twinkly guide, Ana, a native, was full of Rates start at US$1,150 replete with booze. And if you join other guests (£821)pp, for two nights’ by the re to watch the sunset with a glass of all-inclusive. wine, you will be plied with even more seafood.

Location While Chiloé may have less dramatic scenery than Tierra’s sites in Patagonia and Atacama, it o ers a glimpse into the culture and history of this southern island community. With gentle hills, Paci c views and tiny islands – each with colourfully painted churches, protected by Unesco – Chiloé o ers a quaint slice of rural life. Rates include a transfer from the airport at nearby Castro: a half-hour rumbly drive down ever-smaller tracks. Castro airport is tiny, however, with its irregular  ights often cancelled. Many prefer to  y to major transport hub Puerto Montt, on the mainland, and make the three-hour journey to Tierra by land and sea from there; ask for advice when booking.

Comfort With just 12 en-suite rooms, the hotel has an intimate feel. After days spent on excursions, a familial easiness grew between guests chilling out in the lounge in the evening. The policy of no TV in the room helps, but email-junkies can relax: there’s e cient wi- throughout. All angles: the Huge glass windows in each room, and striking exterior wrapped around the ground  oor, ensure this (above); dining room small hotel feels airy. Honey-and-copper-toned with a view (below) Chiloén manio and ulmo wood is used for  oors, walls and ceilings; it’d be like living in a sauna, if it weren’t so spacious. The island has a rich craft tradition; women spin, weave and knit wool from their farms, which is re ected in Tierra’s decor, with throws, rugs, wall-hangings and even adorable little hand-made slippers for each guest to take away, all made locally. Hand-woven baskets dot the hotel, while hand-carved wooden piglets snu e along surfaces. If this all sounds a bit twee, fear not – these are subtle additions in neutral colours. Tierra Chiloé may cultivate a rustic look, but think tastefully artisanal, not holiday tat.

12 | TRAVELLER | 23.01.2016 TRAIL OF THE UNEXPECTED WESTERN AUSTRALIA’S MICROBREWERIES Tap into Margaret River In a re on known for wines, the grain is swiftly gaining on the grape, as David Whitley found

he neatly arranged vineyards on the other side of the mini lake come as no sur- prise. Neither do the bottles of Killerby and Ferngrove wines stacked up in the Garden variety: TRAVEL Tshop, ready to be swooped upon by wine tourists. the Bootleg ESSENTIALS This is, after all, Margaret River, the darling wine Brewery PAUL PICHUGIN region of those who prefer their Australian drops prestige rather than plonk. Getting there 9757 2033; The region accounts for three per cent of Aus- Etihad Airways (0345 darbypark.com.au). tralia’s wine production, but approximately 20 per 6081225; etihad.com) Rentals for two people cent of the premium market. Since the rst experi-  ies to Perth via Abu start at A$152 (£74), mental vines were planted at Vasse Felix in 1967, Dhabi from Heathrow, room only. about 200 wineries have cropped up. A three-hour Manchester and drive from Perth airport, its location and favourable Edinburgh. Drinking there soils have seen it become a burgeoning wine tour- To travel onwards to Taste The South Tours ism destination – rstly with weekend breakers Margaret River, hire a (00 61 438 210 373; from the city, then with the rest of the world. car from the airport or tastethesouth.com But on the tables overlooking the lake, there’s travel with South West .au). Six-and-a-half not a wine glass to be seen. Since 2012, the grape Coach Lines (00 61 8 hour brewery hopping has surrendered this particular spot to the grain. 9261 7600; southwest trips are available The Cheeky Monkey microbrewery is a bold, beery coachlines.com.au) for A$95 (£46). venture into wine country, with shimmering silver from A$63 (£30) Tasting paddles are tanks displayed proudly and the list of hand-pulled one way. not included in beers playing with styles from around the world. the price. The tasting paddle features sample-sized glasses Staying there of a pilsner made with New Zealand hops, a red Darby Park Serviced More information session ale with Munich malts and cascade hops Apartments, Margaret australiassouthwest and a deliciously intrusive Belgian-style IPA. River town (00 61 8 .com Head brewer Ross Terlick introduces himself as “chief grunt”. He’s proud to be making “all- natural beer, with no preservatives or chemicals” company with her husband, doesn’t even drink beer. foresaw an opportunity to cling to the imminent and excited about a new canning machine. It will But experience has shown she’s the best bet as driver. Perth wine tourism boom. What started as a small restau- help get the beers into Perth bottle shops (o - “Groups of boys from Perth tend to behave them- rant with two beers made on site is now a 300-seater licences), and eventually the rest of Australia. selves more when Mum’s in the car,” she grins. with seven beers and a cider. Of these, Tom’s Amber But the surprising thing is that this plucky little As the bus goes between breweries, it’s clear les- Ale packs plenty of  avour and depth into a 3.5 upstart is not alone. Ross says: “We’re the young- sons have been borrowed from the wineries. The Indian WESTERN per cent session beer. But the hands-down win- Ocean est of – I think – 11 breweries in the region. That Colonial Brewing Co, like many, has a marvellous AUSTRALIA ner is the Raging Bull dark ale, a mammoth 7.1 per makes Margaret River the most brewery-rich setting: pastures and a pond in front, and Bramley center that goes strong on co ee and fruit and is regional area in Australia. Although, with 180-odd National Park to the side. The pale ale is inspired by made proudly with Australian malts and hops. wineries, we’ve got some catching up to do.” the altbiers of Düsseldorf, the wheat beer has cori- Margaret River General manager Michael Brooks reckons the Very quietly, the area is diversifying. Wine tour- ander and cumin undertones, and the Canadian IPA brewing scene is only going to expand. A new brew- ism has brought in excellent restaurants, but it has a touch of maple syrup. As at the wineries, tasting �� miles ery is under construction on the approach to also created viable opportunities for chocolate fac- notes are provided. Margaret River town, while Sydney craft specialist tories, cheese makers and – yes – breweries to grab The longest-standing brewery in the region is Young Henrys is planning to open a facility. some of the passing trade. While many tour compa- arguably the most impressive. Bootleg was set up As he brings the tasting paddle over, Michael nies drop in for chocs and cheeses as a break from by Thomas Reynolds, a retired teacher, in 1994. says: “Welcome to the Margaret River beer region.” the wineries, Taste The South Tours devotes a day Reynolds noted the success of the Sail and Anchor It’s testament to how things have changed that trip to microbrews. Sabine Schaaf, who runs the and Matilda Bay breweries in the Perth area, and this is only partly tongue in cheek.

MAKE ME AN OFFER SOLO ESCAPE

Active Culture Wellness One holiday, three ways. £949 Solos £1,095 £626 Each week, we approach Cox & Wellbeing three companies to ask Holidays Kings Escapes them for their best o er on a speci c break. This week, we chose a solo escape: one cultural (Russia), one active (Italy) and one focused on wellness (Spain). Prices Includes British Airways  ights from Gatwick to Verona Includes British Airways  ights from Heathrow to Includes easyJet  ights from Gatwick to Faro on 14 March, are based on one person on 19 June, transfers and seven nights’ B&B at Monte St Petersburg on 26 April, transfers, B&B in four- to  ve- transfers and a four-night Wellbeing Booster Programme travelling alone, and all Bondone in Vaneze, in the Dolomites. Meals, guided star hotels, two dinners and transfers. Three nights in St at AMA Andalusia Resort, Spain, with breakfast, group include accommodation in walks, a Nordic walk, wakeboarding, mountain biking, a Petersburg, visiting Catherine Palace and the Hermitage  tness classes, spa and gym access, two spa treatments, a private room. visit to Trento, and the services of a Solos Tour Leader Museum, and three nights in Moscow with a city tour and and a private yoga, Pilates or personal training session also included (0844 371 8860; solosholidays.co.uk). Kremlin visit (020 7873 5000; coxandkings.co.uk). (020 3735 7555; wellbeingescapes.com).

23.01.2016 | TRAVELLER | 13 TRAVELLER’S GUIDE Adventure holidays

Don’t sit still – there’s a world out there to explore. Whether you want to trek up a mountain or experience new cultures, trips now cover all levels of excitement. By Ellie Ross

ravelling the world in search of an to new airline routes such as British Airways’ adventure is more popular now than direct  ights from Gatwick to both San José ever – and for good reason. Gone are (Costa Rica) and Lima (Peru), launching in the days when adventure travel was April and May respectively. Tpurely the domain of backpackers or adrenalin In response, tour operators have introduced junkies looking to tick o activities like bungee holidays in these destinations, including Into jumping and cage diving with sharks. Latin America (0117 214 0247; intolatinamerica Over recent years, the term “adventure” has .com), which will o er a 10-day guided raft- broadened considerably and can now be con- ing trip along the Tambopata River in Peru sidered as anything “experiential”. Today, these this summer. Based on two adults sharing, the Take a hike: exploring kinds of trips are more about active exploration, two-week package costs from £3,995pp and in- the rainforest in Costa educational experiences and trying something cludes  ights from Gatwick to Lima on July 20, Rica JEFF DIENER/AURORA CREATIVE new, whether that’s trekking to Everest Base domestic  ights and transport, two days’ B&B Camp or taking a salsa class in Cuba. in Puno, a trip to Lake Titicaca and the 10-day Adventure travel is now one of global tour- rafting adventure with all meals, guiding, camp- ism’s fastest-growing sectors. A 2014 report by ing and wildlife walks. the United Nations World Tourism Organisa- G Adventures (0344 272 2060; gadventures. tion revealed that the industry is worth $263bn co.uk) has a new two-week Explore Costa Rica (£183bn) per year globally and that 42 per cent trip with special access to the Monteverde In- of holidaymakers had been on trips classi ed as stitute, a research centre supported by National adventure holidays. Geographic, from £1,429pp with transport, Since the recession, travellers are increasing- board and activities, but not  ights. ly keen to get more for their money – and make Changes in red tape have also a ected the the most of their time o work. Rather than sit- popularity of certain destinations. For example, ting on a beach or by a pool for a week, we’re British passport-holders can visit Vietnam for up packing in as much as possible, and tour opera- to 15 days visa-free until the summer, while a new tors are reacting to this increased interest by e-visa is simplifying journeys to India. Moonstone o ering “adventure travel excursions” within Expeditions (07931 554 883; moonstone- standard, o -the-peg holiday packages. expeditions.com) is launching new Kerala trek- Phoebe Smith, editor of Wanderlust mag- king trips in February, including the week-long azine and author of Wild Nights: Camping Kerala Explorer through the Western Ghats for Britain’s Extremes believes our travel habits £680pp, with full board, transfers, a guide and have also been in uenced by sel e culture. ‘Adventure entrance fees, but not  ights. “It’s now all about the experience and the travel is Iran is back on the tourist radar since the photo,” she says. “People want to be seen to FCO eased its travel advice in July 2015, and be doing something that gives them bragging about active travel companies are adding more trips. World rights – such as climbing a mountain or meeting exploration Expeditions (0800 074 4135; worldexpeditions a tribal elder.” .co.uk) is launching Damavand Expedition With a number of new destinations recently and trying Iran, an eight-day trek to the summit of Mount opening up to the UK market, adventure travel Damavand, from £1,220pp. The price includes has become even more far-reaching. Latin something seven nights’ accommodation and most meals. America is becoming more accessible thanks new’ Flights extra; departures May to September. 14 | TRAVELLER | 23.01.2016 On your bike

While active holi- guide. The first departure days are on the rise, is 10 June. cycling is enjoying a partic- America’s historic ular boom, thanks in part highway, Route 66, is a to more urban commuters classic road trip, but it’s choosing pedal power over also possible to tackle it by public transport. For those bike. Discover Adventure looking to take their biking (01722 718 444; discover experience to the next adventure.com) has a new level, Exodus (0845 314 eight-day challenge that 3516; exodus.co.uk) is pedals 335 miles between offering a new Cycle the Grand Canyon and Las ­Kilimanjaro trip (left) in Vegas, including a section Tanzania that will circum- of the old Route 66. You’ll navigate the world’s pass Wild West land- largest free-standing scapes and Lake Mead, mountain and pedal the largest reservoir in the through forests inhabited US. It costs from by leopards, buffalo and £2,299pp with accommo- elephants and experience dation, most meals, flights Maasai villages. The eight- from London to Phoenix, day trip costs from transfers, mountain bike £1,999pp and includes hire and a support team. flights, accommodation, Departs on 12 March and most meals, bike hire and a 15 October. Immerse yourself

Tour operators are free, 13-day tour of increasingly offering Malawi visiting fairtrade visitors the chance to producers. The Malawi meet local people and give Meet the People tour something back during (0191 265 1110; meetthe their trip. Nepal is once people.skedaddle.co.uk) again welcoming visitors runs from 4-16 June and following the devastating gives you the chance to earthquake of April 2015, meet fairtrade coffee and Dragoman’s new farmers and rice Nepal Heritage Tour producers in their homes (01728 861133 ; and see the real impacts dragoman.com) takes its of fairtrade, as well as customers to well-known visiting national parks. destinations such as Kath- The price of £2,445pp mandu, as well as getting includes 12 nights’ half- off the tourist trail. The Annapurna district helping an English-speaking board accommodation in majority of the 13-day trip to rebuild shelters and guide and driver but it locally owned guest- is spent in remote or little- restore damaged irrigation excludes flights. houses, guiding, transfers visited hillside communi- systems. The price, from Saddle Skedaddle is and donations to the ties (above right), and £914pp, includes 12 known for cycling holidays producers visited. Flights you’ll spend a day in nights’ B&B, some meals, but new for 2016 is a bike- not included. Feet first Call of the wild

For those who prefer provider, Expedition X Add a wildlife Or how about two feet to two (00 64 3445 3080; pack encounter to your spending the night with wheels, a walking holiday raftingnz.com) has a adventure. Steppes a pack of wolves in offers plenty of scope for one-day Raft & Ramble Travel (01285 601 751; Norway? The world’s adventure. Set off on foot tour on which travellers steppestravel.co.uk) has northernmost wildlife (left) along Spain’s Camino trek into Fiordland a 10-day trip to Mozam- park, Polar Park in Bardu, de Santiago, staying in National Park wearing a bique that encompasses now offers guests the converted monasteries and backpack containing an yoga and freediving with chance to stay in a cabin manor houses along the inflatable raft, which is dolphins (left). inside a wolf enclosure way. The trip with Vidados then used to paddle over Begin each day with (00 47 77 18 66 30; (020 3750 2455; vidados. rapids. The trip costs yoga and breath-control polarpark.no). Spend the com) costs from £2,772pp from NZ$319pp (£145), sessions before heading evening in front of the fire and includes most meals, including lunch and out in search of dolphins. as the pack howls 17 nights’ accommodation, transfers from Queens- The £2,395pp cost covers outside. The next transfers, the guided tour town. For the truly hard- seven nights’ full board, morning, meet a handful and a certificate for core, the new overnight four days of diving and the of socialised wolves in completing the pilgrimage. Explore The Wild trip option of becoming certi- the enclosure. The Flights not included. includes a night’s fied in Level 1 (beginners) WolfLodge package costs Or why not combine camping and costs or Level 2 (advanced) from £450pp, including walking with other activi- from NZ$799 (£363), freediving. The price one night’s accommoda- ties? New Zealand’s first including equipment excludes flights. Departs tion, dinner, a guide and and only pack-rafting and meals. 28 February. the wolf encounter.

23.01.2016 | TRAVELLER | 15 traveller’s guide Adventure holidays

Learn a lesson

Discover your inner ice through a microscope, a full-board basis. could help. The week- scientist with a new or study meteor frag- Departs from Punta long trip to Val d’Isère type of cruise this year. ments. Other activities Arenas on 24 November. offers 16 hours of freeski Hurtigruten’s Antarctica include kayaking, snorkel- Flight and transfer pack- or snowboard tuition to programme (pictured ling, snowshoeing and ages start from £1,370pp. help you develop slides below; 020 3603 7112; the chance to sleep on If you’ve ever wanted and spins. It costs from hurtigruten.co.uk) deck under the polar to learn how to do free- £595pp, including self- includes an interactive skies. The 15-day Adven- style tricks on the snow, a catered accommodation, science laboratory where ture the Chilean Fjords new course from Ticket lift pass and video anal- you can examine a three- and Antarctica voyage To Ride (020 8788 8668; ysis, but not flights. million-year-old piece of costs from £4,402pp on tickettoridegroup.com) Departs 20 March. Family fun

Thrill your young- family booking also Park, it combines activi- sters with Explore’s includes a free GoPro ties including kayaking Iceland Family Winter camera and selfie stick. (above), mountain Adventure Tour (01252 Departures are on 13 biking, geo-caching, 883 878; explore.co.uk), February, 26 March and wildlife watching and featuring activities such 26 December. canoeing, as well as a as glacier walking, Closer to home, ride on the Harry Potter whale watching and Wilderness Scotland steam train along Glen- snow-mobiling. It costs (01479 420020; finnan Viaduct. The from £1,659 per adult wildernessscotland.com) price is from £995 per and £1,392 per child, has a week-long Treasure adult and £785 per with flights from London Highlands trip. Taking in child, including six to Reykjavik and seven the west coast and nights’ B&B, activities nights’ B&B. Each Cairngorms National and guiding.

CLASSIC ROUND VOYAGE * NORTHERN LIGHTS, from only £995pp NORTHERN LIGHTS PROMISE Sail with us before the end of March 2016 and if the Northern Lights don’t appear during your voyage, we’ll give you another 6 or 7-day Classic Voyage FREE OF CAMERA, ACTION CHARGE*.%1Ȇ0%,4 ,+Ɯ!"+14"/"6,2Ȇ))0""1%"*Ɯ/011&*"/,2+!Ȃ A breathtaking adventure through the YOUR ITINERARY DAYS 1-4: Your expedition starts in the mountain-framed city of Bergen landscapes that shape Norway +!0"10,ƛ1%/,2$% /"1%1(&+$0 "+"/61,1%",/!& 1,4+,#?0")2+!ǽ Trondheim, Rørvik and Trollfjord follow, as we cross into the Arctic Circle and "$&+1%"%2+1#,/1%",/1%"/+&$%10ǽ

DAYS 5-8: Choose from a huge range of excursions in the Arctic capital of /,*0ő "#,/" ,+1&+2&+$+,/1%Ǿ-01*$+&Ɯ "+102 Ȓ/ 1& )+!0 -"0+! 1%"&+!&$"+,20ç*&%,*")+!0ǽ 2/1%"/01,-0&+ )2!" ,++&+$03í$Ȁ1%" $1"461,1%",/1%-"Ǿ&/("+"0+!"%*+ǽ

DAYS 9-12: As we leave the Arctic Circle, you’ll witness the spectacular "3"+&01"/0,2+1&+0Ǿ "#,/"*(&+$1%"Ɯ+)--/, %1,"/$"+3& /,+!%"&*Ǿ/&01&+02+!+!1%"#0 &+1&+$0 "+"/61%1Ɲ+(01%"/,21" -01?)"02+!Ǿ,/3&(+!í)ő6ǽ – EXCLUSIVE – WHAT'S INCLUDED? NORTHERN  12-day Bergen – Bergen Round Voyage in cabin grade of your choice on a LIGHTS full-board basis  English speaking tour guide on board PROMISE  Northern Lights Promise – a FREE Voyage if the Northern Lights don’t appear  Your choice of Contemporary, Traditional, Millennium or Explorer class ships  Huge choice of departure dates  7 days (of your 12-day voyage) spent above the Arctic Circle  2))-/,1" 1&,+ț4%"+ ,,(&+$Ɲ&$%101%/,2$% 2/1&$/21"+Ȝ Call or visit NOT INCLUDED 0203 773 8364 www.hurtigruten.co.uk •"12/+Ɲ&$%10+!1/+0#"/0 • Luggage handling or visit your preferred travel agent • Optional excursions • Travel insurance

Terms and conditions: *From price per person based on an inside twin cabin on full board basis. Single supplements may apply. Prices applicable for new bookings only and 02 '" 11,3&) &)&16ǽ,1&+ )2!"!ǿƝ&$%10Ǿ1/+0#"/0Ǿ)2$$$"%+!)&+$Ǿ1/3")&+02/+ "+!"5 2/0&,+0ǽ+6Ɲ&$%10 ,,("!4&1% 2/1&$/21"+/"-/,1" 1"!țǘǚǝǙȜǽ ȥ,/1%"/+&$%10/,*&0"--)&"01,+6ǖǗȒ!6)00& ,2+!,6$"Ǿ!"-/1&+$ 6ǘǖ01/ %ǗǕǖǛǽƛ"/3)&!,++"4 ,,(&+$0,+)6ǽ)),/1%"/+&$%10, 2//"+ "0 DAILY DEPARTURES AVAILABLE /"/" ,/!"! 61%"0%&-ȉ0!" (,ƛ& "/0+!++,2+ "!1,-00"+$"/0,+ ,/!ǽ+, 2//"+ " +)01+61%&+$#/,*#"4*&+21"01,*11"/,#%,2/0Ǿ+!1%"0%&-ȉ0 !" &0&,+01,4%"1%"/1%",/1%"/+&$%10, 2//"!&0Ɯ+)ǽ #/"!""*"!Ǿ6,2/#/""3,6$"4&)) "Ǜ,/ǜȒ!6)00& ,6$"Ǿ!"-/1&+$#/,*ǖ01 1, "/ǗǕǖǛ1,ǘǖ01 Call or visit us online to book your trip / %ǗǕǖǜǾ&++2+0-" &Ɯ"!&+0&!"14&+  &+,+ "!+! /"(#01 0&0Ǿ02 '" 11,3&) &)&16+!01+!/! ,,(&+$ ,+!&1&,+0ǽ%"#/""3,6$"*201 " )&*"! 4&1%&+Ǘǝ!60,#6,2/,/&$&+)/"12/+!1"+!&0+,+Ȓ1/+0#"/ )"Ǿ+,+Ȓ %+$" )"+!%0+, 0%3)2"ǽƛ"/*6 "4&1%!/4+,/*"+!"!1+61&*"ǽ

16 | TRAVELLER | 23.01.2016 Classified feature Adventure breaks From treks in Bhutan to exploring Mongolia, take on these challenges

TREKKING IN BHUTAN dIsCovER AdvENTURE ExTRAoRdINARy ExpEdITIoNs Experience the beautiful landscapes of the Himalayas Live the adventure in 2016 and fulfil more than Secret Compass brings challenging exploratory with a challenging trek in the remote mountain just one of your resolutions with an epic adventure travel within everyone’s reach, with pioneering team kingdom of Bhutan, with Blue Poppy Tours & Treks. challenge. Whether you hope to go somewhere expeditions that explore DRC, Kurdistan, Iran, Mongolia Trek from three to 15 days over high passes, you’ve never been, want an incentive to shape up and more. Adventure gold rewards independent traversing mountain meadows, past blue mountain and get fit or just want to make a difference and travellers keen to get beyond the headlines in lakes, along yak herders’ trails and through deep do something meaningful this year, with over 50 the world’s wildest places. Up next, join a literary valleys with amazing mountain views. adventures across four continents we’ve got the (horseback) journey across Mark Twain’s Holy Land, a Contact: bluepoppybhutan.com; 020 7609 2029 challenge of a lifetime to suit you. Darién Gap jungle trek or summit Iraq’s highest peaks. Contact: discoveradventure.com; Contact: secretcompass.com; 0207 096 8428 [email protected]; 01722 718444

A TRIp To THE mooN woN’T CosT yoU THE EARTH Explore the Lunar Landscape with us on Lanzarote, guided walks tailored to suit the profile of the group. Climb your own volcano, walk through the volcanic lava fields, even walk inside an extinct volcano and surround yourself with silence. Discover the real Lanzarote, this unique experience starts at just £39pp. We can arrange suitable UNdIsCovEREd Alps accommodation and there are Undiscovered Alps specialise in multi-activity holidays. several flight options every day Using their unique activity points system, you can of the week from the UK and tailor make your ideal activity holiday and let them do Ireland, with an average of 330 the organising. Holidays are based around the Ecrins days per year of sunshine. National Park in the Southern French Alps with its Contact: fabulous weather – 300 days of sunshine per year. adventureholidayslanzarote.com; With beaches by the lake to high mountain glaciers, [email protected]; you can do anything from canyoning to water skiing 0034 649389888 to paragliding. Contact: undiscoveredalps.com; 0345 009 8501

ACTIoN CHAllENGE sCoT moUNTAIN HolIdAys THE GATEwAy To AdvENTURE wAlEs Join 150 adventurers on the Iceland Challenge to Scot Mountain Holidays offer adventure holidays in At Motor Safari’s stunning 4x4 multi-activity adventure tackle two marathon distance treks in two days with Scotland, specialising in walking experiences. Our park, you will discover a fantastic venue with its own two nights of wilderness camping under the midnight excursions are a wee bit different because we don’t lake, mountain and woodland. Motor Safari offers sun. Also coming soon is the Saharan Challenge with use a hotel as a base. Our guests all stay with our a wide menu of thrilling driving experiences and two tough days of trekking and Bedouin camping in family and are looked after throughout their stay with guarantees a fantastic adventure for all. As seen on Morocco en route to the desert. Two short, sharp, real good, home-cooked meals, top quality professional ITV’s ‘The Martin Lewis Money Show’, ‘This Morning’, adventures with a big celebration at finish – and you guiding and genuine Highland hospitality. ‘Blue Peter’, ‘Top Gear’, ‘Disney Adventures’ and more. can do it for charity or just for yourself. Full support Contact: scotmountainholidays.com; Contact: [email protected]; 01978 447199 and stunning routes, get fit and push yourself in 2016. [email protected]; 01479 831331 Contact: actionchallenge.com; 0207 609 6695 Middle East Insurance Over 50s Specialist Travel Insurance

12 months European Comprehensive * cover from just £39.99 • Up to £10m medical emergency & repatriation • Up to £5,000 cancellation cover Abu Dhabi • All pre-existing medical conditions considered • Easy medical screening H 3 nights 3 Centro Yas Island Rotana fr£385pp • 21 days winter sports cover included** Includes low rates Save £225! Valid deps 06 - 30 Jun 2016 Ends midnight 31/01/2016 Quote IN16 3 nights 5 H Fairmont Bab Al Bahr fr£549pp Includes reduced rates & FREE half board Save £110! Valid deps 10 Jul - 25 Aug 2016 Call us FREE 7 days a week 0800 652 9986 Call today on 01772 507 002 or visit Netflights.com/AbuDhabi

Terms & conditions: Prices include accommodation as specified and return flights with various scheduled airlines travelling in economy class departing from London for dates specified. Prices based on two adults sharing. Book by dates apply. Prices also include pre-payable taxes. Transfers staysure.co.uk not included but are bookable. All offers subject to availability, booking restrictions, change and book by dates. For full terms and conditions see the website. All offers can be withdrawn/ altered without notice and cannot be combined with any other offer/discount. Credit card charges apply. Offers correct at time of going to press. Netflights.com is a trading name of Gold Medal Travel Group Plc. ATOL protected 2916. ABTA V6805. Cultural Holidays Terms and Conditions apply. *Price is correct at time of print, based on one person aged 18– 65 travelling in Europe on a Comprehensive policy, excluding medical conditions. Prices vary according to medical condition cover and individual needs. **Winter sports cover up to 21 days in 1 trip up to age 70. ‡15% discount only applies to the base premium of your travel insurance quote and does not apply to any medical screening premiums where relevant. Offer ends midnight 31/1/2016. Staysure insurance is arranged & administered by Staysure.co.uk Ltd, an independent insurance intermediary authorised & regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority FRN. 436804. Staysure, a trading name of Staysure Ltd is licensed & regulated by the Financial Services Commission No. FSC1238B. Self Catering Transfers Le Praz Transfers

29 years of alpine driving experience Transfer direct to your UK Travel accommodation. Cornwall & Devon 8/10/12/14/16 seater Mini Buses available www.alptransfers.eu 07970 103259 Sardinia Sicily holidayExclusive properties luxury in 01647 434305 helpfulholidays.co.uk the UK & Ireland Over 300 properties for 2–24 guests, many from 2 night stays Corsica Request your 2016 brochure now, visit ruralretreats.co.uk or call us on Villas, Apartments & Hotels Villas, Apartments & Hotels 01386 897959 01489 866 959 01489 866 994 SardinianPlaces.co.uk SicilianPlaces.co.uk ATOL 1866 / ABTA V5963 ATOL 1866 / ABTA V5963

Villas, Apartments & Hotels Travel 01489 866 931 For advertising opportunities within forthcoming Corsica.co.uk 01647 434064 features please contact the Travel Team on ATOL 1866 / ABTA V5963 helpfulholidays.co.uk 0203 615 5204 Caribbean

SANDALS RESORTS INCLUDE WHAT OTHERS DON’T. JAMAICA • SAINT LUCIA • ANTIGUA • BAHAMAS • GRENADA • BARBADOS More Land & Water Sports (even waterskiing)** • Unlimited Scuba Diving for Certifi ed Divers • Unlimited Rounds of Golf^^ • Complimentary Instruction & Equipment • Unlimited Gourmet Discovery Dining with up to 16 Restaurants per Resort • Exclusive Dine-Around Programme • Up to 11 Bars per Resort • Unlimited Premium Brand Drinks • Robert Mondavi Twin Oaks wines • Stay at One, Play at Any Sandals** • Free Weddings~ • Unique Love Nest Dream Suites • English Guild-Trained Butlers & Concierges for Top-Tier Suites • Poolside & Beachside Cocktail Bar Service • Free Basic Wi-Fi • Caribbean’s Best Beaches • Private Offshore Island Adventures • Tipping, Transfers & Government Taxes included

LUXURY INCLUDED® RESORT TRAVEL DATES 7 NIGHTS FR. SAVE UP TO BARBADOS Sandals Barbados 12- 24 Jun ‘16 £1,449pp £2,982pc GRENADA Sandals LaSource Grenada 3 - 17 Oct ‘16 £1,599pp £2,344pc ANTIGUA Sandals Grande Antigua (C) 27 Aug - 9 Sep ‘16 £1,649pp £2,022pc SAINT LUCIA Sandals Halcyon Beach (C) 27 Aug - 8 Sep ‘16 £1,465pp £2,688pc Sandals Regency La Toc 27 Aug - 8 Sep ‘16 £1,579pp £1,962pc Sandals Grande St. Lucian 27 Aug - 8 Sep ‘16 £1,739pp £2,184pc JAMAICA Sandals Carlyle 21 Sep - 9 Oct ‘16 £1,189pp £1,004pc Sandals Montego Bay 21 Sep - 9 Oct ‘16 £1,565pp £1,394pc Sandals Ochi Beach 21 Sep - 9 Oct ‘16 £1,599pp £1,402pc * Sandals Royal Caribbean 21 Sep - 9 Oct ‘16 £1,619pp £1,340pc Sandals Whitehouse 21 Sep - 9 Oct ‘16 £1,625pp £1,772pc

B = Butler Suite Sandals Negril 21 Sep - 9 Oct ‘16 £1,725pp £1,384pc Sandals Royal Plantation (B) 21 Sep - 9 Oct ‘16 £1,949pp £2,300pc THE BAHAMAS Sandals Royal Bahamian 16 Sep - 30 Sep ‘16 £1,875pp £1,628pc Sandals Emerald Bay (C) 26 Aug - 13 Oct ‘16 £2,049pp £2,510pc ALL THE ABOVE PACKAGES INCLUDE AMAZING AIR DEALS WITH BRITISH AIRWAYS OR VIRGIN ATLANTIC FLIGHTS OTHER DATES THROUGHOUT 2016 & 2017 ALSO AVAILABLE C = Club Level Room SANDALS LASOURCE GRENADA BUTLER SUITE PINK GIN BEACH ITALIAN BI-LEVEL 1 BR. BUTLER SUITE W/BALCONY TRANQUILITY SOAKING TUB Situated in the Italian Village this luxurious Butler Suite boasts a spacious bedroom, walk-in closet, an oversized lounge area and fully stocked wet bar. On the expansive balcony you will fi nd HURRY BOOK BY an indulging Tranquillity Soaking Tub for two and dining table. A stunning spa-style bathroom completes the suite with a luxurious 02 FEB ‘16 freestanding soaking tub, walk-in shower, and a vanity dressing unit. 2 0 1 5 7 NIGHTS NOW £2,159PP TO BOOK THE WORLD’S LEADING ALL-INCLUSIVE RESORTS Call 0800 742 742 | Visit sandals.co.uk | See your local travel agent SANDALS LASOURCE GRENADA RESORT & SPA Lines are open 8.30am - 9pm Monday - Friday and 10am - 6pm Saturday & Sunday

*SANDALS: Book by midnight 02 February 2016 for travel up to 30 November 2017. Discount varies depending on resort, room type booked and date of travel between 20-45%. Min stay 3 nights. Discount is off accommodation portion only. Up to £700 air credit is per booking and is valid at selected resorts only and ranges between £150-£700 depending on resort booked and length of stay. Terms and conditions and blackout dates apply. +NO.1 TRAVELLER LOUNGE: Valid on bookings made up to 2nd February ‘16. Valid for travel up to 30 November 2017. Available when travelling from London Gatwick North Terminal/South Terminal when flying Economy/World Traveller or Premium Economy/World Traveller with British Airways, Virgin Atlantic or Thomson Airways. Available when fl ying to Antigua, Saint Lucia, Jamaica, Grenada, Barbados and Turks & Caicos. T&Cs apply. Prices are per person based on 2 adults sharing a deluxe room for 7 nights on the travel dates specified. Prices include all savings, accommodation as stated on an all-inclusive basis (all meals, drinks, land and water sports), return scheduled flights from London with British Airways or Virgin Atlantic in economy class, all taxes and in-resort transfers. Prices are subject to availability & change. Weekend supplements may apply. SANDALS INCLUSIONS **Available at selected resorts only. ^^Mandatory caddies at cost. †Restrictions apply. ~Min 3 night stay. Gov & admin fees apply. ABTA & ATOL protected. All the flights and flight-inclusive holidays are financially protected by the ATOL scheme. When you pay you will be supplied with an ATOL certificate. Please ask for it and check to ensure that everything you booked (flights, hotel and other services) is listed on it. Please see our booking conditions for further information or for more information about financial protection and the ATOL Certificate go to atol.org.uk/ATOLCertificate.

OFFERS European river cruises Rhine, Danube, Moselle, Main, Rhône or Seine Eight days from £�,���pp or �� days from £�,���pp

Explore Europe’s grand waterways from the comfort of our hand-picked fi ve-star river cruisers, with scrumptious full- board and included sightseeing excursions. Visit Cologne, Trier, Koblenz, Heidelberg, z Five-star cabins with hotel standard beds, Strasbourg, Basel, Lucerne, Vienna, private bathrooms and river views Budapest, Amsterdam, Avignon, Arles, Bruges, Paris or Rouen. See vineyards, z Exceptional cuisine with full-board monasteries, medieval towns, breath-taking throughout Alsace, the Black Forest and absorb yourself in the history of the Hapsburgs. z A choice of 10 stunning cruises, see videos online Selected departures from April to November 2016, the price includes: z Comprehensive, fully escorted sightseeing itineraries z Standard class reserved seat on Eurostar from London St. Pancras or fl ights from selected regional airports (at a supplement)

z Return rail connections on selected dates and cruises from over 50 regional stations* Brochure Line: ����� ��� ��� or visit independent.co.uk/traveloff ers

3430 Terms and Conditions: Cruise duration dependent on selected itinerary. *Supplements apply for certain regional stations. Prices are per person, based on two sharing and subject to availability. Prices correct as of 21.01.16 at 15:00 and based on a telephone booking. Additional entrance costs may apply. Operated by and subject to booking conditions of Riviera Travel, Abta V4744 Atol 3430, a company independent of Independent Print Ltd. Riviera Travel, New Manor, 328 Wetmore Rd, Burton upon Trent, Staff s, DE14 1SP. Fax 01283 742301. Image used in conjunction with Riviera Travel. ABTA No. V4744 OFFERS Independent travel off ers Fully escorted tours Price includes: return travel, accommodation and a tour manager throughout A journey on the Ganges aboard the RV Bengal Ganga Florence and Tuscany �� days from only Eight Days from £�,���pp only £���pp

Departing: from November 2016 and February to April 2017 Departing: from April to October 2016 The price includes: The price includes: • Return direct scheduled fl ights • Be astounded at Kolkata’s (Calcutta) • Return fl ights, taxes and transfers • Visit to Pisa charming colonial architecture • Stay in three, four and fi ve-star hotels, • Seven nights bed and breakfast staying in • Escorted by an experienced tour manager with breakfast • Full touring programme, full board and three-star superior and four-star hotels, • Visit all the major sights of Old and selected drinks included whilst cruising, with four dinners New Delhi visiting small towns and villages, with fascinating ancient temples, • Stay in central Florence and enchanting • See the breathtaking Taj Mahal bathed in markets and palaces Tuscany soft morning light • Escorted by our experienced Tour Manager • Guided tour of Florence and Siena • Stay in Varanasi, visit its colourful bathing ghats and enjoy a rickshaw ride through its • Reserved, timed visit to the Uffi zi, teeming streets Cruise the Dalmatian Coast on the MV Corona or MS Admiral Eight days from only £�,���pp

Imagine yourself reclining under a deep azure sky, as the polished teak deck moves almost imperceptibly with the rhythm of the Mediterranean and a refreshing evening breeze ruffl es the air. Selected departures from May to October 2016, the price includes: • Return fl ights • Seven night cruise on the four-star MS Admiral or MV Corona cruising along the Dalmatian coast, one of the world’s most dramatic landscapes, studded with beautifully preserved and atmospheric Venetian infl uenced medieval towns and some of Europe’s clearest waters • Daily breakfast, fi ve lunches, dinner on certain days plus Captain’s Dinner • Tour of Dubrovnik, Pearl of the Adriatic • Tour of Split and Emperor Diocletian’s monumental palace • Explore the stunningly beautiful islands of Hvar and Mljet • Guided tour of Korcula, one of the Adriatic’s most perfectly preserved medieval ports • Services of our experienced tour manager

Brochure Line: ����� ������ or visit independent.co.uk/traveloff ers

3430 Terms & Conditions Prices are per person, based on two sharing and subject to availability. Prices correct as of 21.01.16 at 09.00 and based on a telephone booking. Additional entrance costs may apply. Operated by and subject to booking conditions of Riviera Travel, Abta V4744 Atol 3430, a company independent of Independent Print Ltd. Riviera Travel, New Manor, 328 Wetmore Rd, Burton upon Trent, Staff s, DE14 1SP. Fax 01283 742301. Image used in conjunction with Riviera Travel. V4744 ABTA No. V4744 ICECNbEREDORblaCK WITHblaCK TYPE ORWHITE TYPE CIRClE CaN aPPlICaTIONS WHERE VERTICal ISN’TUSE POSSIblETHIS FOR all aPPlICaTIONS WHERE VERTICal ISN’TUSE POSSIblETHIS FOR all     
        
     K=0 Y=80 M=100 C= 0 INDY RED

the independentK=100 blaCK 23.01.16 aND OVERall WIDTH =lESS THaN 85MM rush hour snow traveller p.2 with powered-up snowboots Feel theheat thisseason cold comfort Why Innsbruck is the perfect ski city p.4 runs at aSwiss mountain-toplodge Enjoy indulgent dinnersandempty the only way isup p.6 the learning experiencefor novices How Val d’Isère hasimproved nursery nomore p.3

innsbruck Tourismus Stephen Wood The man who skis all day

skiers with cold feet. The company says that the The heat is on in the shell is designed to promote blood  ow, and uses the warmest insulation materials available; ski boot department but its main innovation is the heating system, which is wholly integrated within the boot. The season before last, a journalist revealed in Apart from the tiny power socket at the back, Forbes magazine the aspect of skiing that has through which 4.2 volts  ow from the charger provoked the most complaints in the decade- into the power pack, and the nearby heat-out- and-a-half during which he had been writing put switch, the boot barely gives a sign of its about the subject. Queues? Lift-pass prices? special powers: only the tiny red “power on” Boarders? No, none of the above. “The number light catches the eye. But from the materials one complaint I’ve heard, over and over, is on the throat, it’s apparent these are premium about the cold,” wrote Larry Olmsted. boots; putting them on is like squeezing into a You may nd that odd; I certainly do, given very compact Mercedes. For the rst time ever, that cold weather does go with the territory, I tried putting ski boots on my bare feet. so to speak. Do water-skiers complain about Once charged up, the heating system – wet conditions? I don’t believe so. developed with Therm-ic’s help – will operate Prior to the New Year, Olmsted can have had for up to 18 hours, depending on which of the no complaints from Europe. But now that the three output settings is selected; on full heat, weather has changed in the Alps, the slopes you get four and a half hours. turning from brown to white, you might wish popular with anglers. There is also the alarming Getting cold feet?: How well does the system perform? I wish I for warmer conditions, at least inside your socks. electric Powersock, made by Austrian special- Having to warm up could tell you; but I was evaluating the boots in That sort of microclimate is now achievable, ists Therm-ic. More ambitious (and, at £180 a your boots, and your London, where the spring-like air temperature with the advent of the centrally-heated ski boot. pair, about twice the price) is the Sidas Central toes, could become was high enough to render the warming e ect The idea of heating boots is not new. Somewhat Woman Heat, a boot liner designed for women a thing of the past barely discernible. It was annoying, so much unsophisticated add-on devices have long been which features an internal warming system. GETTY IMAGES so that I am going to send a complaint to available, usually consisting of power-packs The di erence with Salomon’s new Quest Larry Olmsted about the heat this season. hung on the top of the boots and connected Access Custom Heat boot is that it was de- Quest Access Custom Heat boots, RRP £380 by cable to thermal insoles; they have proved signed (from the ground up, presumably) for (01276 404860; salomon.com).

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2 | SNOW TRAVELLER | 23.01.2016 INNSBRUCK Tyrol’s city on the slopes Skiing’s not just a sport in Austria’s Alpine capital, discovers Adam Ruck – it’s a way of life

n the Alpine nation where skiing is most deeply rooted in pastoral village life, Innsbruck is something else. Host to the Winter Olympics in 1964 and again in I’76, the capital of Tyrol is not a gateway to ski- ing in the way Grenoble and Salt Lake City are. Innsbruck skis. Its most exciting modern ar- chitecture is ski-related – lift stations and the Olympic ski jump designed by Zaha Hadid – and it would be entirely practical to stay in a downtown hotel, close to the shopping centres and historical attractions, clump out on to the cobbles each morning in ski boots, hop on a city bus and proceed directly to the slopes. On one side the Nordkette has a youthful vibe, with steep slopes, a hi-tech freestyle park and student nights in the mountain restaurant. To the south, the long-established resort out- post of Igls seems to look to the past, with its health clinics and proud memories of downhill racing on the slopes of Patscherkofel, a name writ large in ski history. During the infamous World Championship downhill of 1936, after rain and an overnight freeze turned the course into a thin strip of ice studded with rocks and tree stumps, 17 of the 54 competitors were too zone for families, timorous exponents of the GERMANY Armin Pfurtscheller is one of those restless badly injured to nish, to say nothing of the snowplough, and the over-50s. souls who can never stop extending and many stretcher cases among the spectators. Stubai takes Innsbruck’s skiing to another improving their home; under his watch a Snow conditions were better 40 years later level: its lifts start where the other areas end, Innsbruck comfortable village hotel has grown into a when Franz Klammer took gold for Austria. and Michael Muigg of the Stubai Ski School is palatial pleasure dome. The wine cellar is an Today, on a morning of sunshine and new keen to show me its tougher side. “There is a 60 AUSTRIA aspirational sightseeing attraction in itself, lled snow, the Patscherkofel echoes with the laugh- per cent gradient here,” he says, at the top of ITALY with Jeroboams, Yquems and Mouton Roth- ter of children on the gentle slopes at the top black-graded Daunhill, which connects with the schilds; prices go up to €10,000 a bottle. of the mountain and the easy blue family run, unpisted itinerary to the base. We ski the 10km SWITZ. �� miles The Jagdhof’s latest addition is a spa complex which takes a less direct route down the moun- from top to bottom without stopping, treating the size of a small village: an alternative universe tain than the Olympic red piste. After a couple ourselves to a beer at the base. As bold as ice: the of wellbeing o ering a bewildering variety of of non-stop top-to-bottoms either side of a glüh- Winter weather does not always make a trip to Zaha Hadid designed ways to relax. This balmy labyrinth has its own li- wein in the old refuge at the top, I have ticked the high country the most inviting option, as we Nordpark Cable brary and a separate chalet reserved for private the Patscherkofel’s box, so I perform a quick discover when cloud rolls in, reducing visibility. Railway (below); a view pampering. I nd my personal space in costume change: o with the boots, on with the Rather than ght the elements we beat of the mountains and a heated electric massage chair, looking out at loafers for a bus ride to the city centre, lunch in an early retreat to the Jagdhof, one of Austria’s the picturesque city the mountains through a wall of glass. Like in a beer cellar and an afternoon sightseeing tour. most sumptuous spa hotels, in nearby Neustift. INNSBRUCK TOURISMUS Innsbruck, the pistes remain temptingly close. Its highlights are two masterpieces of Renaissance bling: the golden-roofed loggia on Herzog-Friedrich-Strasse where Emperor Maximilian showed o his Italian wife, and his cenotaph in the Hofkirche (Court Church), a vanity project to rival the Taj Mahal. The Emperor’s juggernaut-sized marble tomb dominates the interior, with its guard of hon- our, 28 larger-than-life bronze ancestors and martial heroes, including King Arthur and Theodoric the Great, cast after designs by Totally Dürer, facing each other across the checker- Gatwick and  ights, transfers and Fly direct from 9 local UK airportsFabulous to board  oor of the nave. Manchester; and half board. Inghams 19 of the top resorts across the Alps From the city it is only a few minutes up the TRAVEL Thomas Cook (01483 791101; Over 100 chalets and Chalet Hotels to motorway to the exit for the Stubai valley, home ESSENTIALS Airlines (01733 224 inghams.co.uk) o ers choose from to Austria’s best glacier ski area. Stubai alone 330; thomascook a week at Sporthotel Great group deals with ‘Ski Total Savers’ airlines.com) from Igls (00 43 512 has more skiing than many resorts can boast: NEW La Tania, in the heart of 26 lifts and 35 pistes between the Mutterberg Getting there Manchester. 377241; sport RESORT the 3 Valleys, France base station at 1,750m and the Schaufeljoch – Innsbruck is served hotel-igls.com) from “Top of the Tyrol” – at 3,200m. This is by British Airways Staying there £750pp, including tantamount to a snow guarantee and at times (0344 493 0787; Crystal Ski (020  ights, transfers and of shortage the long road up the valley is a nose- ba.com) from 8234 6400; crys- half board. PRICES to-tail procession of buses and cars bringing Gatwick; easyJet talski.co.uk) o ers a Both hotels are FROM ONLY * FREE skiers from near and far. (0330 365 5000; week at the Jagdhof members of Niche PARKING You’ll nd all the mod cons. Serial telecab- easyjet.com) from Spa Hotel Destinations (niche- PER PERSON £479 AT HEATHROW including flights, transfers, ines shift skiers as fast as buses can deposit Gatwick, Luton and Neustift (00 43 destinations.com). accommodation, FOR GENEVA food & wine. FLIGHTS them, to a mid-mountain concourse where the Bristol; Monarch 52262666; hotel- *Terms and conditions * apply. slopes fan out across an immense arena of snow (0333 003 0100; jagdhof.at) from More information and glacier ice. The nursery slope has a moving monarch.co.uk) from £1,395pp including innsbruck.info Call 01483 791 933 or visit skitotal.com carpet with a roof, and there’s a slow-skiing

23.01.2016 | SNOW TRAVELLER | 3 crans-montana A Swiss lodge at the top of its game Destination restaurant Chetzeron has reached new heights by offering dining and bedrooms at altitude. Leslie Woit makes her way up to enjoy the view

lot of ski chat is numbers-based. Total There are two ways to check in to Chetze- vertical, snow depth, skiable kilome- ‘The basis ron’s rooms. The first is by ski or foot via a blue tres, altitude – if you can measure it, piste called Cry d’Er; your bags will arrive by it counts. Well, there’s a super stylish is to cut snowmobile. My arrival took the second, more AlpineA hotel – more of a restaurant with rooms people off adventurous route. Because I arrived in Crans- actually – perfectly positioned a scant 10 metres Montana after the lifts had stopped running, from the lift. Yet this particular measurement from reality I hopped on the piste basher express. The back doesn’t matter a bit. When you step out of the and mobile loaded with wine boxes and food supplies, owner door in the morning, you’re already at the top. Sami Lamaa and I bundled into the heated High above the Valais resort of Crans-Mon- phones’ snowcat and set off to plough uphill, headlights tana, the first incarnation of this 1963 gondola illuminating a forest bouncing with deer and rab- station was to decant four generations of skiers at �� miles bit. Half an hour later we alighted on a deserted 2,100m into the midst of the sparkling peak-filled mountain top – the only sound the crunch of panorama crowning the Rhone Valley above Si- snow beneath our boots, the only sight, the 65- erre. Consigned to the scrap heap in 2001 when 75 stars twinkling in the velvet black sky. Sami SWITZERLAND it was replaced by a new lift nearby, the severe, should know, he’d done the counting for us. striking brick edifice was reborn eight years “The basis of Chetzeron is to cut people off Crans-Montana later as Chetzeron, a sophisticated mountain from reality and mobile phones,” he explained, FRANCE restaurant. Today, it’s a bed for the night, too. ITALY as we warmed ourselves inside on sheepskin

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 | SNOW TRAVELLER | 23.01.2016 mountain like goats without shoes,” says Sami, “and they found very good energy here.” TRAVEL Recharged and renewed, with rm plans to re- turn for lunch, I stepped straight from the terrace ESSENTIALS into Crans-Montana’s 140km of pistes and 27 lifts. I made my way up to Bellalui, and down to the Nationale slope, host to the high-speed likes Staying there of Didier Cuche and American super-star Lynsey Hotel Chetzeron Vonn during its World Cup races. Far below, (00 41 2 7485 0800; the village sits at 1,500 metres on a sunny shelf. chetzeron.ch) has double It forms the lower border of skiable terrain, and rooms from 345 Swiss lifts rise to a top altitude of 3,000 metres. francs (£239), B&B. Known in the Sixties and Seventies for its jet- Momentum Ski (020 set clientele, Crans-Montana’s star seemed to 7371 9111; momentum be receding. But in the past few years, a reported ski.com) o ers three investment of 1bn Swiss francs (£0.7bn) is in- nights’ B&B in Crans- throws next to an open re with a glass of Valais jecting new life. Hotels such as ve-star Guarda Montana, staying at the wine. “To cut people from reality these days is Golf and new chalets that include elegant Crans three-star Hotel Valaisia, very di cult.” Luxury Lodges and t-for-a-Tsar Chalet Seven from £598pp with BA I was an easy conquest. I’d be bbing if I said have attracted newcomers . Even Roger Moore  ights from Gatwick to I’d nabbed rst tracks from the doorstep, one abandoned his beloved Gstaad to spend winters Geneva and Swiss Rail of the key attractions of overnighting at Chetze- here. When I arrived back for lunch at Chetzeron return transfers. ron. To my embarrassment, my reality was after my morning tour round the rolling reaches cut o until well after 10am the next morning, of permanently-snowy Plaine-Morte Glacier and More information in a stupor the length and depth of my down- a leisurely mosey down a long 10km piste, I even crans-montana.ch; dappled king-size bed. When I nally awoke, encountered Heston Blumenthal tucking into a myswitzerland.com sunshine ricocheted o a hundred peaks and shared plate of venison sausage. the rst skiers were schussing past my door. It The terrace and restaurant were heaving seemed a shame to rush out without accepting with skiers enjoying fragrant slow-cooked beef a late feast of fresh pain au chocolat, fruit salad with fried gnocchi, lamb stew with thyme and and superb co ee, and I was keen to indulge in polenta, and lashings of fantastic wine produced Into the groove: you a little soak in the deep, two-man tub, beneath at the foot of the Valais garden – either on the can go from sleeping a huge picture window. So I did. And if the win- expansive wooden terrace strewn with fur- to skiing in minutes at dows appear perfectly oriented to the views, covered deck chairs and large tables or inside Hotel Chetzeron they are. Chinese Taoist monks were invited beside the re. The best bit? There’s no need MARTIN GARDELLIANO up during a visit to Switzerland to consult on to leave. Your bed’s turned down, and both it – the feng shui of the redesign. “They ran up the and the lift – are just steps away.

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23.01.2016 | SNOW TRAVELLER | 5 VAL D’ISERE A French course for beginners With Europe’s largest snow-making facility and a new, side-step-saving travelator, this is the perfect resort for novices. By Rachael Pells

can’t do it,” I cried out to the mountain tree- Tunnel vision: tops, “I’m going to have to go down on my Rachael tries out the ‘ bum.” It was the nal test of my beginners’ new travelator ski trip in Val d’Isère: an icy green and red runI lined by sheer drops that I could just imagine tumbling down and crashing to a sticky end. Over the past couple of days I’d conquered turns and attempted rotations. I’d even man- aged to alight from the ski lifts successfully, albeit with the grace of Bambi on ice. Up until this moment, I’d been feeling pretty smug about how quickly I’d picked up this whole skiing business... but this, I decided, staring down at the treacherous path before me, this was Skiing there post-ski massage with Pamper my Everest, and it was terrifying. TRAVEL Powder White’s (020 8877 8888; O Piste (destinationpamper. To say I was a complete beginner would be a powderwhite.com) Beginners com). Airport transfers extra bit of a lie – I had been skiing once before, but ESSENTIALS Package costs from £889pp, (from €65 one-way). that was on the side of an unmarked mountain including a seven-night fully in Bosnia, almost 10 years ago. At that time, catered stay at Chalet Marwari, Eating there only one side of the Jahorina slopes was open Getting there ski hire from Snowberry (snow La Folie Douce (lafoliedouce.com). to the public since the other was yet to be easyJet (0330 365 5000; easyjet. berryvaldisere.com), ski pass, cleared of landmines. And rather than receive com) ies from Gatwick to tuition with New Generation Ski More information strict instruction as such, I was set free on the Geneva from £25 one way. School (skinewgen.com) and a valdisere.com slopes while my responsible elders enjoyed urine-coloured spirits doled out by the ski-hire company before breakfast. Yes, I re ected, clinging on to the side of the piste with skis resort’s slightly steep prices worth paying for lage in the safety of the lift. I could happily have wedged rmly inwards, I had come a long way the guarantee of good skiing all season. spent the whole day riding up and down in that since then. My instructor, Danilo, a former champion cable car bubble, so incredible was the bird’s- As part of a new beginner’s skiing package Italian skier, was to teach me, guide me and – eye view of pristine snowy peaks. arranged by ski company Powder White, I’d I hoped – protect me. He had the patience of a Only an equally-serene lunching spot could arrived into Geneva three days earlier and been saint and before long I was perfecting my snow- tempt me away. Bars and restaurants are plenti- ferried across the Swiss-French border to a lux- plough – both toes pointing inwards to allow ful here, with the possibility of a mid-ski beer or ury chalet in the prestigious resort. Brand new ‘Val d’Isère for the most important action of all: stopping. hot chocolate never far away. The second day’s for this season, Chalet Marwari is just a glide One thing I did remember from my secret ski lunch stop was at the delightfully-wacky La and a jump away from Val d’Isère village centre, is higher lessons past was the agony of trudging up and Folie Douce, a high-altitude clubbing venue the slopes and ski schools, and provided the down nursery slopes, battling with skis and found at several Alpine ski resorts, which also perfect snug for après-ski relaxation and than most poles. An unavoidable penance for not being ad- serves beautiful food in monstrous portions. pampering. With four double en-suite rooms, European vanced enough to take a lift up to steeper slopes, You may even nd yourself being serenaded, a sauna, dining area with private chefs and huge the majority of starter ski lessons the world over as I did, by one of many camp-as-Christmas roaring replace, this was a side to snow sports ski spots, will involve repetitive uphill side-stepping for cabaret acts. The whole experience was so fan- I could get used to very quickly. bringing so the very small return of a three-metre long tastically bizarre that I left on a high with the And so much snow. Unlike many resorts, snowplough back down. naïve notion of skiing all the way back down Val d’Isère has little reason to worry about the much snow’ Imagine my joy when, on the second day from the restaurant. And so it was that I had weather forecast. With a top altitude of 3,400 I was to be taken several hundred feet up in found myself in this very steep predicament. metres, not only is the region higher than most a chair lift to try out the resort’s swanky new Perhaps the most important thing I’d learnt European ski spots, the valley bene ts from SWITZ. travelator. The covered moving walkway allows about skiing as an almost-beginner was that continental cross-winds bringing in healthy beginners to be carried up an incline similar to much of the di culty was psychological. Shoot- amounts of snow most winters. the ones found on the nursery slopes below, no ing down a mountain isn’t actually that hard – it What’s more, the resort is home to the FRANCE tedious side-stepping required. With a lm-set just takes con dence. So with that in mind, I did largest snow-making facility in Europe, with backdrop glinting in the sunshine, the newly- my best to ignore the scores of French school- 600 state-of-the-art canons ready to pump out Val d’Isère  attened top of the Solaise mountain was children racing past me backwards on one ski, serious amounts of snow in minutes. It’s a tech- ITALY perfect for building up con dence in my turns and made my way down – safely – to the  atter nique used for Olympic races and makes the �� miles and speed before coming back down to the vil- world, one careful snowplough at a time.

6 | SNOW TRAVELLER | 23.01.2016 That moment when you hit the slopes

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RAyZoR SPoRTS eyeWeAR DRIeR AnD WARMeR foR 80 PeR cenT lonGeR Rayzor is where you will find top of the range Montane’s new ultra professional ski goggles and sports sunglasses. lightweight North Star All goggles are double lensed with lens vents, anti- Lite Jacket (£240) fog treatment and fleece-lined face foams. With a pioneers the latest choice of over 30 ski goggles styles and over 50 sport in down technology. sunglasses styles, there is a model for everyone. It uses 210g of high All items are now 70% off, with everything under £20. quality HyperDRY™ contact: rayzorinternational.com water resistant goose down at 800+ fill power to keep you drier and warmer for 80% longer than leading competitors, even in the harshest of conditions. Designed for supreme PeRIllA SKI 50 versatility, wear Gorgeous 75% alpaca ski and board socks, with soft- the North Star Lite cushioned sole and ribbed sides in a fabulous palette all year round in of colours. Also knee- length striped and plain socks the mountains and available for those who prefer a thinner sock. Alpaca on cold, winter repels odour and bacteria and can easily be worn for a adventures. week of skiing. contact: montane.co.uk contact: perilla.co.uk