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Charles Pickles (Presidenl 1976-1978) the FELL and ROCK JOURNAL
Charles Pickles (Presidenl 1976-1978) THE FELL AND ROCK JOURNAL Edited by TERRY SULLIVAN No. 66 VOLUME XXIII (No. I) Published by THE FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB OF THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT 1978 CONTENTS PAGE Cat Among the Pigeons ... ... ... Ivan Waller 1 The Attempt on Latok II ... ... ... Pal Fearneough 1 The Engadine Marathon ... ... ... Gordon Dyke 12 Woubits - A Case History ... ... ... Ian Roper 19 More Shambles in the Alps Bob Allen 23 Annual Dinner Meet, 1976 Bill Comstive 28 Annual Dinner Meet, 1977 ... ... Maureen Linton 29 The London Section ... ... ... Margaret Darvall 31 High Level Walking in the Pennine Alps John Waddams 32 New Climbs and Notes ... ... ... Ed Grindley 44 In Memoriam... ... ... ... ... ... ... 60 The Library ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 76 Reviews ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 82 Officers of the Club 117 Meets 119 © FELL AND ROCK CLIMBINO CLUB PRINTED BY HILL & TYLER LTD., NOTTINGHAM Editor T. SULLIVAN B BLOCK UNIVERSITY PARK NOTTINGHAM Librarian IReviews MRS. J. FARRINGTON UNIVERSITY LIBRARY BAILRIGG LANCASTER New Climbs D. MILLER 31 BOSBURN DRIVE MELLOR BROOK BLACKBURN LANCASHIRE Obituary Notices R. BROTHERTON SILVER BIRCH FELL LANE PENRITH CUMBRIA Exchange Journals Please send these to the Librarian GAT AMONG THE PIGEONS Ivan Waller Memory is a strange thing. I once re-visited the Dolomites where I had climbed as a young man and thought I could remember in fair detail everywhere I had been. To my surprise I found all that remained in my mind were a few of the spect• acular peaks, and huge areas in between, I might never have seen before. I have no doubt my memory of events behaves in just the same way, and imagination tries to fill the gaps. -
4000 M Peaks of the Alps Normal and Classic Routes
rock&ice 3 4000 m Peaks of the Alps Normal and classic routes idea Montagna editoria e alpinismo Rock&Ice l 4000m Peaks of the Alps l Contents CONTENTS FIVE • • 51a Normal Route to Punta Giordani 257 WEISSHORN AND MATTERHORN ALPS 175 • 52a Normal Route to the Vincent Pyramid 259 • Preface 5 12 Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey 101 35 Dent d’Hérens 180 • 52b Punta Giordani-Vincent Pyramid 261 • Introduction 6 • 12 North Face Right 102 • 35a Normal Route 181 Traverse • Geogrpahic location 14 13 Gran Pilier d’Angle 108 • 35b Tiefmatten Ridge (West Ridge) 183 53 Schwarzhorn/Corno Nero 265 • Technical notes 16 • 13 South Face and Peuterey Ridge 109 36 Matterhorn 185 54 Ludwigshöhe 265 14 Mont Blanc de Courmayeur 114 • 36a Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) 186 55 Parrotspitze 265 ONE • MASSIF DES ÉCRINS 23 • 14 Eccles Couloir and Peuterey Ridge 115 • 36b Lion Ridge 192 • 53-55 Traverse of the Three Peaks 266 1 Barre des Écrins 26 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable 117 37 Dent Blanche 198 56 Signalkuppe 269 • 1a Normal Route 27 15 L’Isolée 117 • 37 Normal Route via the Wandflue Ridge 199 57 Zumsteinspitze 269 • 1b Coolidge Couloir 30 16 Pointe Carmen 117 38 Bishorn 202 • 56-57 Normal Route to the Signalkuppe 270 2 Dôme de Neige des Écrins 32 17 Pointe Médiane 117 • 38 Normal Route 203 and the Zumsteinspitze • 2 Normal Route 32 18 Pointe Chaubert 117 39 Weisshorn 206 58 Dufourspitze 274 19 Corne du Diable 117 • 39 Normal Route 207 59 Nordend 274 TWO • GRAN PARADISO MASSIF 35 • 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable Traverse 118 40 Ober Gabelhorn 212 • 58a Normal Route to the Dufourspitze -
Monte Rosa Course & Ascents
MONTE ROSA COURSE & ASCENTS EX CHAMONIX 2022 COURSE NOTES MONTE ROSA COURSE & ASCENTS TRIP NOTES 2022 COURSE DETAILS Dates: Available on demand Duration: 6 days Departure: ex Chamonix, France Price: €4,550 for 1:1 guide to climber ratio €2,700 for 1:2 guide to climber ratio Sunset from Zumsteinspitze. Photo: Bruce Mackintosh This is one of the finest alpine outings at a moderate level of difficulty. The views are stupendous; from the Matterhorn to the elegant North Face of Lyskamm and the knuckled mass of the Dufourspitze, it is impossible to forget the scenery. After a day of training and acclimatisation above Courmayeur, you will spend the week with ice axe and crampons, passing from Italy to Switzerland and back again. The Monte Rosa Course is also a Grand Traverse, a ridiculously scenic journey that includes up to ten 4,000m peaks. This course, departing from Chamonix, France, will appeal to those with previous mountaineering SKILLS COVERED experience who want to enjoy a new region and • Alpine mountaineering equipment—what to use collect plenty of summits. It is also appropriate for and how to choose first time alpinists with a good level of fitness and a • Rope work—tying in and basic climbing knots hiking or rock climbing background. Instruction can • Travelling over different terrain—progression be included into your itinerary to get you started, from glacier to rock and ice climbs followed by the ascents themselves. • Objective dangers—awareness and avoidance Throughout the week you will climb under the • Alpine huts—early starts and etiquette supervision of our experienced and professional mountain guide(s). -
Mountaineering in the Monte Rosa Massif. Contents
Mountaineering in the Monte Rosa Massif. Contents. Overview 1 Team 2 Background 5 Planning & financials 9 Mountaineering training 12 Tour itinerary 16 Concluding remarks 32 Summary Aims This report gives an overview of • Train mountaineering skills an alpine tour conducted in the Monte Rosa massif in August 2020, • Summit more than ten peaks Overview. supported by the Exploration above 4000m in one week Board of Imperial College London and the Old Centralians’ Trust. The • Minimise environmental impact common interest of our team was to take our first steps in high-altitude mountaineering. We were also keen to explore how the adverse environmental impact of such a trip may be minimized through choices made at the planning stage. The report covers preparatory work, an alpine training course in the Scottish Cairngorms and details of the tour in the Swiss and Italian alps taking in several peaks above 4000m. Scottish + Cairngorms London + + Monte Rosa Massif 1 Team 2 Team. Laura Braun Role: Expedition Leader Occupation: PhD Student, Imperial College London Age: 29 Laura researches technical interventions in the fight against neglected tropical diseases. Her passion for the outdoors manifests itself in the many hours spent climbing every week. Whenever London becomes too hectic, her touring bike quite literally becomes her escape. But often the downward facing dog, the warrior or child’s pose will also have the desired effect. Benedict Krueger Role: Deputy expedition leader, med. officer Occupation: PhD Student, Imperial College London Age: 27 Ben’s research focuses on exploring novel treatment technologies for human waste to improve sanitation in low- and middle-income countries. -
4,000 Meters Trekking Summits in the Monte- Rosa Group. About The
4,000 meters trekking summits in the Monte- Rosa group. A one week trekking and climbing on the glaciated plateau of the Monte Rosa Group; an activity planed for people with hill walking/trekking experience- no previous mountaineering knowledge is required. About the activity During one week, we will guide you on the glaciated plateau of the Monte Rosa Group, on the border between Italy and Switzerland. The high summits- in the region- are especially accessible due to the high elevation of the huts and the flat, long glaciers. The climbing is straight forward and for the most part, not technically demanding- so also people that are making their first steps in alpinism can enjoy it. A 3 days Montblanc ascent is offered for those of you who would like to make use of the knowledge and the acclimatization acquired during the week. Required fitness level & difficulty: A physically demanding activity- a good/very good level of physical fitness is required (B/C) as we will be climbing some days up to 1300 meters with 10-kg (about 20 Lbs) rucksacks; no previous experience in snow/ice or rock is required; a previous experience in trekking or hill walking and scrambling is an advantage. More about Mountains fitness and technical level definitions here. The activity includes: • Snow and ice gear intro • How to deal with ropes, harnesses, crampons and ice axes • The right technique to walk in snow and ice • Self-arrest techniques • Basic experience in climbing short sections of moderately steep ice • Glacier travel Timetable * The mentioned timetable is exemplary and may vary due to conditions, ability of the participants, safety & weather limitations. -
Vincent Pyramid: the Death of a Glacier
Home / Water / Specials Vincent Pyramid: the death of a glacier The melting of glaciers narrated by a mountaineer On Sunday, 12 July 2015, while northern Italy is gasping for air and the heat seems to be overwhelming even my home town of Biella, the alarm rings at 4:30 am. A long car drive along deserted trunk roads - the only encounter being the usual fox at Borgofranco d'Ivrea - leads us to Stafal, the ancient village ... excuse me, the enormous car park... serving the sky lifts at the end of the Lys Valley. What Frachey and Saint-Jacques, in the contiguous Ayas, would presumably become if the surreal plan of a cable car connection in the protected area of the Cime Bianche were ever to be implemented! We ascend in front of what was once the Indren snowfield: a huge glacial basin, now covered by a snowfield that since 2003 is fighting for its very survival, feeding vast streams of melted snow. This is the third week in a row which sees us set foot on the glaciers, headed for the high altitudes: and it is unfortunately the third week in a row of intolerable heat, with freezing point initially set at 4800 metres, then 4400, today 4200. To then return between Tuesday 15 and Wednesday 16 July to 4900 metres. So, the point of this story is very simple: inform, disseminate, "spread" by word of mouth and especially images, the news of the illness of the great glacier. It is just below the Gnifetti Shelter, easily reached via the "rocks" with anchoring equipment, that I notice something very unnatural in the snow cover. -
The Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal
IDol. 17. H pril 1926 H o. 101. THE SCOTTISH MOUNTAINEERING CLUB JOURNAL. KniTK.t) HY G. B. GREEN. ISSUED TWICE A YEAR-APRIL AND NOVEMBER. PUBLISHED BY THE SCOTTISH MOUNTAINEERING CLUB AGENTS : EDINBURGH : DOUGLAS & FOULIS. PRICE TWO SHILLINGS AND SIXPENCE NET. All Notices for the November Number should be sent to G. B. GREEN, 197 Banbury Road, Oxford, as soon as possible, and not later than 1st October 1926. CONTENTS. The Club Dinners..........................................................T. Fraser Campbell. Hill Walks by the Sound of Mull............................Arthur W. Russell. A Pedestrian Tour in the Highlands, 1856— 3. Lungard to the “ New Craig Inn”....................J. Gall Inglis. Stob Ghabhar.......................................................................................A. J. R. In Memoriam— Benjamin Neeve Peach, LL. D., F.R.S. T. R. Marshall. Proceedings of the Club— Thirty-seventh Annual General Meeting. Library and Club-Room. Gathering for the Meet. New Year Meet, 1926—Tyndrum. New Year Meet, 1925-26—Inveroran. At Bridge of Orchy. Excursions and Notes. Reviews. The Junior Mountaineering Club of Scotland. Office-Bearers for 1926. ILLUSTRATIONS. Storm Clouds over Coire an-t-Sneachda, Ben Macdhui. A’ Chioch of Ben More (Mull). Stob Ghabhar from below the Lochain. Loch Tulla and Stob Ghabhar. Clach Leathad and Sron na Creise. Buchaille Etive Mor and Bheag from Glen Etive. STORM CI.OIHS OVKR OIRK ANT-SNKACIIIIA, I'.KN MACDHl'l THE SCOTTISH JHountainming Club Journal Vol. XVII. April 1926 No. 101. THE CLUB DINNERS. B y T . F r a s e r C a m p b e l l . Man may live without Poetry, Music, or Art, He may live without hope, he may live without heart : He may live without friends, he may live without books, But civilised man may not live without cooks ! He may live without hope : what is hope but deceiving ? He may live without books : what is knowledge but grieving ? He may live without love : what is passion but pining ? But where is the man who can live without dining ? Edward Bllwer Lytton. -
Drainage State, Glacial Dynamics and Kinds of Ice at the Terminus of Lys Glacier (Western Alps)
Suppl. Geogr. Fifo Dinam. Quat. V (2007), 729-734, 8 figg., 7 tav. LUIGI MOTTA (?I,) & MICHELE MOTTA e') DRAINAGE STATE, GLACIAL DYNAMICS AND KINDS OF ICE AT THE TERMINUS OF LYS GLACIER (WESTERN ALPS) ABSTRACf: MOTTA 1. & MOTTA M., Drainage state, glacialdynamics morena di fondo attuale, Questa struttura non ecomune sul versant e ita and kinds ofice at the terminus ofLys Glacier (Western Alps). (IT ISSN liano delle Alpi. La peculi arita del Lys potrebbe derivare da un a ciclica 0391-9838,2001). tend enza a rap ide avanzate in anni di alre temperature estive, aventi un a dinamica simile a episodi di «micro-surge». The Lys glacier is formed of superposed layers several metres thick. Most of the layers consist of granoblastic ice with centimerric crystals TERMINI CHIAVE: Drenag gio glaciale, Din amic a glaciale, Ghi accio, and little inner moraine, except at their boundary, where this increases Alpi Occidentali. sharply and the crystals are small with evident glaciotecronic structures. At the terminus, this pile of layers rests on a isoclinally folded stratum of ice-rich sand. Below this bed, there is granoblastic ice, which also con stitutes the substrate of the depositional end moraines formed during INTRODUCTION the 1980 -86: it thus seems likely that is now acting as the inert substrate of the actively moving ice, sep arated from it by the stratum of ice-rich In spite of the great number of work on the alpine gla sand, which would seem to represent their lodgemem till. This structure ciers, the relations among drainage state, glacial dynamic is not common on the Italian side of the Alps. -
Monte Rosa Course & Ascents
MONTE ROSA COURSE & ASCENTS EX ZERMATT 2022 COURSE NOTES MONTE ROSA COURSE & ASCENTS TRIP NOTES 2022 COURSE DETAILS Dates: Available on demand Duration: 6 days Departure: ex Zermatt, Switzerland Price: €5,200 for 1:1 guide to climber ratio €3,150 for 1:2 guide to climber ratio Sunset from Zumsteinspitze. Photo: Bruce Mackintosh This is one of the finest alpine outings at a moderate level of difficulty. The views are stupendous, from the Matterhorn to the elegant North Face of Lyskamm and the knuckled mass of the Dufourspitze, it is impossible to forget the scenery. After a day of training and acclimatisation above Zermatt, you will spend the week with ice axe and crampons, passing from Switzerland to Italy and back again. The Monte Rosa Course is also a Grand Traverse, a ridiculously scenic journey that includes up to ten 4,000m peaks. This course will appeal to those with previous mountaineering experience who want to enjoy a SKILLS COVERED new region and collect plenty of summits. It is also • Alpine mountaineering equipment—what to use appropriate for first time alpinists with a good level and how to choose of fitness and a hiking or rock climbing background. • Rope work, tying in and basic climbing knots Instruction can be included into your itinerary to • Progression over different types of terrain from get you started followed by the ascents themselves. glacier to rock and ice climbs Throughout the week you will climb under the • Awareness and avoidance of objective dangers supervision of our experienced and professional • Alpine huts, early starts and etiquette mountain guide(s). -
Monte Rosa Course & Ascents
MONTE ROSA COURSE & ASCENTS EX ZERMATT 2021 COURSE NOTES MONTE ROSA COURSE & ASCENTS TRIP NOTES 2021 COURSE DETAILS Dates: Available on demand Duration: 6 days Departure: ex Zermatt, Switzerland Price: €5,200 for 1:1 guide to climber ratio €3,150 for 1:2 guide to climber ratio Sunset from Zumsteinspitze. Photo: Bruce Mackintosh This is one of the finest alpine outings at a moderate level of difficulty. The views are stupendous, from the Matterhorn to the elegant North Face of Lyskamm and the knuckled mass of the Dufourspitze, it is impossible to forget the scenery. After a day of training and acclimatisation above Zermatt, you will spend the week with ice axe and crampons, passing from Switzerland to Italy and back again. The Monte Rosa Course is also a Grand Traverse, a ridiculously scenic journey that includes up to ten 4,000m peaks. This course will appeal to those with previous mountaineering experience who want to enjoy a SKILLS COVERED new region and collect plenty of summits. It is also • Alpine mountaineering equipment—what to use appropriate for first time alpinists with a good level and how to choose of fitness and a hiking or rock climbing background. • Rope work, tying in and basic climbing knots Instruction can be included into your itinerary to • Progression over different types of terrain from get you started followed by the ascents themselves. glacier to rock and ice climbs Throughout the week you will climb under the • Awareness and avoidance of objective dangers supervision of our experienced and professional • Alpine huts, early starts and etiquette mountain guide(s). -
4000Ers of the Alps
www.theuiaa.org/mountaineering/mountain-classification UIAA Mountaineering 4,000ers of the Alps MOUNTAIN CLASSIFICATION: 4,000ERS OF THE ALPS. In March 1994, the UIAA Bulletin published - in collaboration with the Club Alpino Italiano (CAI) - an official list of the 82 Alpine summits higher than 4,000m. Peak Altitude Group Country France/ 1 Mont Blanc 4,808.73[5] Mont Blanc Group Italy France/ 2 Mont Blanc de Courmayeur 4,748 Mont Blanc Group Italy 3 Dufourspitze 4,634 Monte Rosa Massif Switzerland Italy/ 4 Nordend 4,609 Monte Rosa Massif Switzerland Italy/ 5 Zumsteinspitze 4,563 Monte Rosa Massif Switzerland Italy/ 6 Signalkuppe 4,554 Monte Rosa Massif Switzerland 7 Dom 4,545 Mischabel Group Switzerland Liskamm Italy/ 8 4,527 Wallis Alps (Eastern Summit) Switzerland 9 Weisshorn 4,505 Wallis Alps Switzerland 10 Täschhorn 4,491 Mischabel Group Switzerland Page 1 of 6 Liskamm Italy/ 11 4,479 Wallis Alps (Western Summit) Switzerland Italy/ 12 Matterhorn 4,478 Wallis Alps Switzerland 13 Picco Luigi Amedeo 4,469 Mont Blanc Group Italy France/ 14 Mont Maudit 4,465 Mont Blanc Group Italy Italy/ 15 Parrotspitze 4,432 Monte Rosa Massif Switzerland 16 Dent Blanche 4,357 Wallis Alps Switzerland Italy/ 17 Ludwigshöhe 4,341 Monte Rosa Massif Switzerland 18 Nadelhorn 4,327 Mischabel Group Switzerland Schwarzhorn 19 4,322 Monte Rosa Massif Italy (Corno Nero) Grand Combin 20 4,314 Wallis Alps Switzerland (Grafeneire) 21 Dôme du Goûter 4,304 Mont Blanc Group France 22 Lenzspitze 4,294 Mischabel Group Switzerland 23 Finsteraarhorn 4,274 Bernese Alps Switzerland