Wine – the lifeblood of By Caroline Gilby MW

Moldova and are inseparable in so many ways. Moldovans even like to claim their country resembles a bunch of , though possibly after sampling a glass or two of the local product. Evidence shows traces of cultivation dating back to 2,800 BC and certainly predates the arrival of the Romans. Wine also plays a central part in many of the country’s legends including the tale of Moldova’s national bird, the white stork, carrying grapes to besieged and starving warriors in the fortress of Soroca, giving them renewed strength to fight off the Tatars.

The country itself is a small landlocked nation perched on the eastern edge of Europe between and Romania, putting it close to centre stage in the current political battles between Russia and Europe for the upper hand in this area. Moldova recently signed an Accession and Association agreement with the EU, but this has not been popular with its autonomous territory of Gagauzia, which recently held a referendum, voting against European integration. Moldova’s breakaway Russian-speaking region of Transnistria (or Transdniester) also strongly favours relationships with Russia, rather than Europe. Leaving politics to one side, Moldova is a welcoming landscape of gently rolling green hillsides, covered with vines, and rich in forests and wild flowers, but in spite of this, it recently topped a Lonely Planet survey as the least visited country in Europe.

Moldova has a strong claim to being the most wine dependent country in the world. Around quarter of a million people earn a living from wine, around 15% of the economically active population. It has 112,000 hectares under vine for wine production (of noble vinifera varieties) – accounting for as much as 7% of its agricultural land, and wine makes up around 7.5% of the country’s exports. The past few years have been tough for this extremely poor country, but this has spurred Moldova into action to reform its wine industry. This was kick- started in 2006-2007 when Russia first introduced a total ban on Moldova’s on grounds of pesticide contamination (never proven – and anyway most grape growers were too poor to afford agrochemicals). Back then; Moldova had been exporting as much as 85% of its wine to Russia, having all its eggs in one metaphorical basket. Admittedly, the ban was in part a problem waiting to happen, because many wines were of very poor quality and exports largely based on cheap prices, but in the wake of massive financial losses and bankruptcies, the industry had to make changes.

Today Moldova’s wine industry is very different – selling to a much wider range of markets and with more emphasis on quality first. There’s been considerable support from the US government’s aid project (USAID) as well as various European agencies, to promote a new image and to support quality through developing PGIs (EU recognised protected geographical indications). Moldova’s landscape and soils are well suited to growing high quality grapes. The gentle hills mean good air drainage which helps avoid both winter chill and summer heat, while allowing good exposure to the sun for ripeness and flavour development. Codru, in the centre, is the most northern and coolest of Moldova’s three PGIs, giving wines with crisp, vibrant acidity, moderate alcohol and good aromas. This region is also famous for deep limestone tunnels that were mined for rock to build the capital Chisinau but have also proved to be great for ageing wine. The state , Mileștii Mici, is even in the Guinness book of records for the size of its underground cellars (more than 200km long, though only around 50km are in use for wine storage) and its wine collection nearing 2 million bottles. Valul lui Traian to the southwest is the sunniest region, with definite Mediterranean warmth to the climate, giving richly flavoured reds and full- bodied whites. Its wines are saved from the summer heat by altitude of around 280 to 300m, ensuring cooler night times, and this gives freshness and balance to the wines. Ştefan Vodă to the southeast has a more temperate continental climate, moderated by the calming influence of the . Grapes ripen fully at around 12.5 to 13% alcohol with deep colours and full flavour development, but this moderate alcohol level gives wines that have drinkability and elegance, and ability to keep well. Moldova’s most famous wine region Purcari is here, close to the Nistru River, whose wines have been famously enjoyed by both Russian and British royalty (the only wine exported with an English label in Soviet times).

All this is good news in theory, but it is what is in the bottle that really counts. Here Moldova has made huge changes. Today’s industry is based on that own and control their own , with modern equipment so fruit quality isn’t spoiled by bad winemaking. Alongside the new face of the big wineries, a group of small estate producers has arisen, making genuinely handcrafted wines with a personal touch (Mostly too small to export but if you visit, look for producers like Pelican Negru, Et Cetera and Equinox). Grapes grown in Moldova include international varieties that have a long history in the country (from as early as the mid 19th century) but there is also a new focus on indigenous varieties for their local flavour – in particular black Rara Neagră, Fetească Neagră and the two white Feteascas: Alba and Regală.

Moldova is also one of the few places in the world where wine is important enough to become a political football. Given that Moldova’s economy is so dependent on agriculture, including wine, it is one of the few sticks Russia has to beat its former little brother with. In 2013, another wine ban was imposed by Russia (again without evidence – this time citing tiny traces of plasticizer at levels below that permitted in water) in what seems to be an attempt to punish Moldova for turning to Europe. And luckily for Moldova, this time less than 30% of its wines were going to Russia, as its wines have managed to find wider markets across Europe and in emerging countries. In the EU, we can do our bit to support a small country against the “Russian Bear” by drinking its wines, and below are a few of my favourites.

Noroc!

Whites Cuvee Blanc Et Cetera A truly family operation owned by two brothers inspired by the wines they fell in love with while working in California. A full flavoured blend of , Pinot Blanc and with creamy vanilla overtones, a smooth rounded texture, and a long clean finish.

Alb de Purcari A refined and elegant blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc nicely harmonious with complexity from the supported by underlying freshness and elegance.

Sauvignon Blanc Albastrele Inviting aromatic and crisp Sauvignon from a grape that suits Moldova’s climate well. Also a very good Pinot Grigio under the same label.

Sauvignon Blanc Fautor A zingy wine with exotic fruit and lemon zest notes, and good clean finish from one of Moldova’s new family wineries.

Feteasca Alba Vinaria din Vale A delicate appealing wine with hints of white peach and zesty acidity from a grape that is usually just treated as a workhorse.

Feteasca Regala Chateau Vartely An invitingly zesty example of another local grape showing fresh pear and apple blossom aromas, and very crisp, lively, lemony undertones.

Rosé Rosé de Purcari A serious but very stylish dry rosé, with hints of peach and wild strawberry. Truly delicious.

Reds Cuvée Rouge Et Cetera A vibrant blend of , , Rara Neagră and , all picked together so the exact blend depends on what the produces each year. It has fine tannins, lovely flavours of damson and black cherry, with vivid acidity and a long finish.

Rara Neagră de Purcari Also known as Băbească Neagră in Romania where it is rarely treated with much respect, but under its other guise of Rara Neagră in Moldova it seems to have found a place where it can show something special. A wine with fantastic refinement and elegance, with notes of wild bilberry, subtle vanilla and a twist of cloves.

Cuvée Noir Chateau Vartely An intriguing blend showing clearly the sense of place that Rara Neagră can add. It has a lovely expressive nose with spice, black pepper and ripe strawberry, followed by generous ripe fruit silky tannins and nice balance of freshness.

Black Doctor Bostavan Moldovan legend says that a doctor once made a wine that could cure the soul as well as the body and people named the wine Black Doktor in his honour. This modern version is made from 55% Saperavi with 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot, with deep purple colour and distinctive bright acidity and black cherry flavours.

Negru de Purcari 2010 A real Moldovan legend revived. Negru de Purcari has a long history as one of Moldova’s most admired wines, being shipped to both Queen Victoria and Queen Elizabeth II. This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with its classic cassis profile and ability to age, combined with the vivid flavours and lively acidity of Saperavi and the wild strawberry silkiness of Rara Neagră. One to keep.