Tanzania Highlights

Naturetrek Tour Report 9 - 23 February 2017

Cheetahs Lion Cubs

Red-and-yellow Barbet Plains Zebra

Report compiled by Zul Bhatia Images courtesy of Tony Bates

Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

Tour Report Tanzania Highlights

Tour participants: Zul Bhatia (leader) and local guide/drivers Daniel Nyamoga & Martin With eleven Naturetrek client

Summary

The two week trip to northern Tanzania, visiting the National Parks and the Ngorongoro Crater, lived up to its expectations and more. The short rains had been very poor this year and the mass of animals were present in the Serengeti woodlands rather than on the plains, where they would be in a ‘normal’ year. We saw some very exciting mammals including Serval, 11 Black Rhinoceros, 75 Lions, seven Cheetahs and five Leopards.

Mammal spotting was generally the order of most days, with birds as a bonus. There were some very keen mammal observers resulting in a list of 40 mammal species. A reflection of the fact that there were several very keen birders resulted in us recording 320+ species. Due to the very dry weather in the early part of the short rains, opportunistic breeders such as bishops, whydahs, widow-birds and weavers, with some notable exceptions, were mainly not in breeding plumage and therefore not very obvious. Amongst other notable species were Little Bittern, Hartlaub’s Turaco, Painted Snipe, Temminck’s Courser, Three-banded Courser, Broad-billed Roller, White-tailed Blue Flycatcher and Montane Nightjar.

Our two local driver/guides, Martin and Daniel were outstanding and made the main contribution to the success of the safari. With very pleasant personalities, nothing was too much trouble for them in order to keep us all happy. Not only did they have a great deal of knowledge, they both carried books and were keen to learn from us too.

Many of the accommodations we stayed in were superb. Everyone enjoyed the variety of places we were based at, particularly the luxury bush camp near Lake Ndutu in the Serengeti and the wonderful Sopa Lodge, situated on the highest point of the Ngorongoro Crater rim. At 7,800 feet above sea level, the hot water bottles at night were much appreciated!

Day 1 Thursday 9th February

The tour started at Heathrow airport where we eventually found each other at the final departure gate shortly before we boarded the overnight Kenya Airways flight to Nairobi. The plane was very full, but quite comfortable. Most of us managed some sleep.

Day 2 Friday 10th February

We arrived at Nairobi Airport in the very early morning: about 5am! We gathered together at the ‘Lava Cafe’ where we had a beverage and started to get to know each other. Nine of the group were leaving on the 7.35am flight to Kilimanjaro International Airport (KIA) in northern Tanzania, whilst the other three left at 8am. Unfortunately, we were told the wrong gate for the 7.35am flight, so we lugged all our belongings to the wrong gate and back unnecessarily. A bit irritating! A short flight later (just under an hour) and we landed at KIA and were met by the transfer driver, Festo. En route to our accommodation for the next two nights, Serena Mountain Lodge on the shores of Lake Duluti, we started getting ourselves acquainted with the birds, seeing

Tanzania Highlights Tour Report

Superb Starling, Hamerkop, Cattle Egret, Sacred Ibis and a striking perched Black-breasted Snake Eagle when we stopped briefly to photograph Mount Kilimanjaro, which was looking lovely.

We checked in to our fabulous rooms and relaxed for a while before lunch. We all introduced ourselves to each other again and Zul gave a briefing for the safari. A siesta followed for some and there were plenty of birds in the lush grounds for those who wanted.

Most of us met up again mid-afternoon and went birding in the grounds. A number of species were seen, best being the very localised Taveta Golden Weaver. We called the log after dinner; a daily ritual for all those who wanted to participate.

Day 3 Saturday 11th February

Zul’s alarm went off at 5.45am. He pressed the snooze button and next thing - it was just before 8am when we were scheduled to leave! No one let him forget this for the rest of the trip! After meeting up with Martin and Daniel, our driver/guides for the whole trip, we left Mountain Village about 8.30am, having also been slightly delayed by having to change two picnic lunches for vegetarian ones. We stopped briefly to buy dried beans for Tony and Zul’s bean bags and arrived at the entrance gate to Arusha National Park (NP) half an hour later. Whilst the drivers got our permits at the NP entrance, we were able to start birding in earnest and look at the informative interpretation there too.

Our first stop was at Serengeti Ndogo (Small Serengeti in Swahili) where we started seeing the first of the large mammals of the trip. Quite a few Buffalo and some Zebra were present, and we also saw some Warthog too. Soon we were off to the Momella Gate where we picked up our armed escort for our walk. En route to the gate we had a great, close encounter with a troupe of the striking Black and White Colobus monkey, one of our target mammals for the day. Sometimes they can be quite elusive or views can be distant, so we were delighted to be with them for ages, right by the roadside.

Our walk took us very close to a large Buffalo herd and a good number of Giraffes, and many selfies were taken. The White-fronted Bee-eaters were stunning. We had our picnic lunches at the Momella Lakes and enjoyed the birds there including some very tame ones coming to handouts/dropped crumbs. Birds were plentiful and we saw many waders and other wetland species too, including some superb Grey Crowned-cranes. Very impressive were the vast numbers of Barn Swallows around.

Our final major stop was at the Ngurdoto Crater rim, which was reached after climbing up through very lush forest. Hartlaub’s Turaco and Eastern Mountain Greenbul were glimpsed briefly. White-eared Barbets and African Dusky Flycatcher were seen well. We exited the park just before 6pm and were back at the lodge by 6.30pm. A great variety of birds had been seen today, so the after dinner sightings log took a while.

Day 4 Sunday 12th February

There was time before we left the lodge to do some birding in the grounds, the highlights being many Olive Pigeons, Brown-breasted and White-eared Barbets, Cardinal Woodpecker and White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher. As we were leaving, Richard made a short speech to thank all the staff who had made our stay at the Serena

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Mountain Lodge so pleasant. After loading all the luggage, we left for Arusha at 8.20am. In town, after refuelling and Zul buying some local snacks for all (Vitumbua and Mandazi), we left Arusha about 9.15am.

By 11am we were at Tarangire NP Gate and whilst the drivers got our permits, we watched many new birds at the water bath as well as the first of the Tanzanian endemics: Yellow-collared Lovebird and Ashy Starling. We entered the park proper about 11.30am and slowly made our way to Tarangire Safari Lodge; a permanent tented camp. A notable sighting was a lovely Rufous Beaked Snake draped over a termite mound.

The views from Tarangire Safari Lodge were awesome. We dropped our bags at our tents, refreshed ourselves and went straight to lunch, but not before we had all had great views of a roosting African Scops Owl that was pointed out to Zul by one of the staff, Yakobo. Having met Naturetrek groups on many occasions over the years, he always makes a special effort to locate the owls when he knows we are arriving. What a very cute bird! A Grey-headed Kingfisher posed very nicely for us by the balcony on our arrival.

This lodge with the Tarangire River below us, panoramic views all round and some very tame birds was a great place to stay. Elephants were always visible down at the river. We went out again at 4pm and stayed out till sunset at 7pm. Much of our time was spent at Serengeti Ndogo (Small Serengeti) where we had great views of three Cheetahs together. They were quite active and the evening sun on them made them really striking. Bird highlights were European Roller, many Ostriches, Bateleur, Pygmy Falcon, Double-banded Courser, Yellow- throated and Black-faced Sandgrouse and Mottled Spinetail.

It was Ann’s birthday today and at dinner, the staff danced and sang for her and brought a cake too. Whilst we were waiting to call the log, a Free-tailed Bat dropped from the roof and landed on Colin’s lap. One of the lodge staff was quickly to the scene with a napkin to remove it, but when she saw it had landed on his crotch she went all shy and someone else had to remove it!

Day 5 Monday 13th February

After an early breakfast, we left the lodge at 7.20am. Caroline was not feeling well and so didn’t come on our morning game drive. We learnt later that she had a good morning, seeing several Lions and a number of new birds. The rest of us had our own Lions: two females together and two males together in a different place. A very large herd of 500+ Buffalo coming down to the river to drink were watched for quite a while – a very impressive sight. Birding highlights were an Eastern Chanting Goshawk, Brown Snake Eagle, Ground Hornbill, Saddle- billed Stork, Grey Woodpecker, European and Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters and two Verreaux’s Eagle Owls.

The afternoon game drive took us to a different area of the park (the River Circuits) and notable birds were Grey Kestrel, a stunning male White-bellied Bustard, a Two-banded Courser and four very striking Red and Yellow Barbets which posed on a termite mound very close to us and gave ample photographic opportunities in the lovely light. We got back to the lodge at 6.45pm, just before sunset.

Day 6 Tuesday 14th February

There was much animal activity near our tents in the pre-dawn. Lions were roaring constantly from about 5am and an Elephant was feeding on the shrubs next to some of our tents! An early morning birdwatch from 7am

Tanzania Highlights Tour Report

started with someone spotting a group of Lions, visible from the balcony, and we watched them for a while. Then we explored the lodge grounds, seeing quite a few bird species including great views of Red and Yellow Barbet, Magpie Shrike and White-browed Scrub Robin.

After a hearty breakfast and some more wildlife viewing, we left the lodge at 9.40am and took our time traversing the short distance to the park gate, game viewing en route. An African Harrier Hawk posed for us as we were leaving. After a short stop at the gate we left the park at 11.10am, stopped for fuel at the town of Mto wa Mbu (Mosquito Creek), climbed up the Rift Valley escarpment with wonderful views of Lake Manyara National Park below, and arrived at Manyara Serena lodge at 12.45pm.

We went straight to lunch and this was followed by some free time. Several of our party took advantage of the Infinity Pool with stunning views over Lake Manyara NP, rated as one of the best Infinity Pools in the world. We left again just after 3.30pm and entered Lake Manyara NP at the bottom of the Rift Valley escarpment at 4.25pm after completing the entry formalities.

Travelling through the impressive groundwater forest with towering trees was slow as there were so many Olive Baboons to watch and a few Blue Monkeys too. We also saw the impressive Silvery-cheeked Hornbill. We made for the Hippo Pool where a recently completed viewing platform afforded good views of the wetland, but we didn’t get out there as a Buffalo was standing at the bottom of the access ramp! There were, however an incredible number of birds showing in the roadside flooded areas and we spent most of the rest of our time in the park there. There were literally hundreds of herons, egrets, pelicans, ducks and an African Fish Eagle which caused temporary panic amongst the ducks. Notable species seen included Intermediate Egret, Black-crowned Night Heron, Glossy Ibis, White-faced and Fulvous Whistling Ducks, Black Crake, African (Purple) Swamphen and many waders, best being several Long-toed Lapwings and a Black-tailed Godwit. We were the last to leave the park and we got back to our lodge just after 7pm.

Day 7 Wednesday 15th February

We left Manyara Serena lodge at 7.45am and stopped at the bustling town of Karatu for some cartons of bottled water as, so far, we had been using more than anticipated due to the very hot temperatures. Zul also got his Tanzanian mobile phone sim card fixed, whilst Martin’s vehicle went on ahead to the entrance gate to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area to get our permits.

When the other vehicle arrived, Martin had already obtained all our permits, which was great as it can take over an hour doing so at busy times. In the Information Centre, Zul gave an introduction to the area using the very helpful relief map. He pointed out various features of interest of the whole area, some of which we would be visiting. It was great to see the scaled relief map and it helped us get our bearings.

We finally left the gate area just before 9.30am. Twenty minutes later, we were getting our first views of the Ngorongoro Crater – always very special. It was very busy there but we really enjoyed our stop (including seeing our first Eastern Double-collared Sunbird – a stunning male) and it was difficult to tear ourselves away, but we had to after 20 minutes as we still had a long way to go before lunch. We made a brief stop at the Grzimek memorial further round the crater rim. The Grzimeks (father Bernard and son Michael) were passionate about conservation of the area, brought it to world attention and worked tirelessly to promote the creation of the

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Serengeti National Park. Sadly Michael, at the tender age of 24, was killed when his light plane collided with a Ruppell’s Griffon Vulture whilst doing an aerial survey. Bernhard Grzimek wrote the best-selling book ‘Serengeti Shall Not Die’ and was director of the Frankfurt Zoological Society (FZS) for over 40 years. Even today, FZS is still involved in the conservation of the area.

We carried on round the rim of the crater and enjoyed the spectacular views of the Ngorongoro Highlands, with its magnificent forest dripping with mosses and lichens and various extinct volcanoes, before dropping down to the Serengeti plains. We started seeing lots of animals both in the Highland grasslands and on the plains. There was not much time for stopping, but notable birds en route were many roadside Capped Wheatears and our first Kori Bustard.

Naabi Hill, the exit gate for the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and the entrance gate to the Serengeti NP, was very busy indeed, but the time the drivers spent getting the permits (nearly three-quarters of an hour) was well spent by us as there were many tame birds to see and photograph. Some also took the short walk up to a high viewpoint overlooking the plains.

Some hard driving followed on the corrugated murram roads without any stopping and we arrived at the Serengeti Sopa lodge just before 2pm. Luckily, there had not been any significant rain recently as this plays havoc with the roads and would have slowed us down.

Out again at 4.30pm and we saw our first Topi, as well as a few new birds. We enjoyed watching about 25 Hippo at a pool in the river, and there were Common and Wood Sandpipers and Ruff there too. Best of all was when we stopped to watch four Defassa Waterbucks and Tony spotted a Leopard. We were all amazed that he had seen it at all as it wasn’t very close and was fairly hidden too! Using the telescope and bean bag, we eventually all got good views, and we showed it to many passing vehicles too.

At dinner it became apparent how busy the lodge was, whereas at lunch, there were very few people about.

Day 8 Thursday 16th February

Leaving just after 7.30am with picnic boxes, we went out for the whole day to the Seronera area of Serengeti NP, an area famed for its predators. We took a slight detour to the Moru area near Lake Magadi where three immature male Lions gave fabulous views, at one stage passing to within a metre of our vehicles! Good birds seen there included our only Red-throated Tit, Yellow-throated Petronia and Marico Sunbird of the trip, Black- breasted Snake Eagle with prey, a perched Tawny Eagle and several Lesser Kestrels.

Great views were had of many Spotted Hyaenas and there were masses of Wildebeest at Seronera. Our first stop, however, was at the toilets at the airstrip! Some very obliging Silverbirds allowed a close approach for photographs. At one point, four Lions beside the road near the airstrip briefly showed interest in the Wildebeest lines crossing nearby and one started a stalk. Quite exciting!

A Leopard was seen very briefly, probably stalking some Warthogs. We waited a while but didn’t see it again. We did, however, see one very well in a tree at Korongo ya Kumi na Sita. The views through the telescope were

Tanzania Highlights Tour Report

brilliant. After a while we discovered another Leopard, this one smaller and quite dark, in the same tree. Some claimed that there was another young one in the same tree, but most of us failed to see it.

We spent time amongst the vast herds of mainly Wildebeest and Zebra whilst having our picnic lunches. Just before we stopped, we saw a full-maned male Lion with three adult females. It was a time of plenty for them and they showed no interest in the herds. Best birds, without a doubt, were the Three-banded Coursers trying to look inconspicuous.

We also visited the Mawe Meupe (White Rock) picnic site and we were able to stretch our legs for a while and visit the toilets, of course. After that it was back to our lodge, getting there at 4.55pm, and they were still serving afternoon trees with cakes and pastries!

Day 9 Friday 17th February

Today we left Serengeti Sopa lodge at 8.10am and transferred to the Explorer tented camp in another part of Serengeti NP, near Lake Ndutu, game viewing as we went. What a morning we had. Near the Simba Kopjes we had incredible views of a Cheetah with a well-grown cub. First it passed by alongside us, then Daniel anticipated its moves and drove us to a position where it walked towards us, passing by very close. It was a fantastic photographic opportunity. At the nearby Simba Kopjes proper we saw a neck-collared Lioness and we felt concerned for ‘our’ Cheetahs, but the Lioness disappeared quite quickly. The drivers thought she had young nearby as she seemed very cautious.

Then we visited an area of wetland and rocky grassland known as Vidimbwi vya Mawe ya Simba. There, we came upon a Lion bonanza with eleven of them, actively hunting Buffalo that were coming down to drink at the pools. At one point we watched a Lioness stalk and successfully bring down a Buffalo calf. She had lifted the calf off the ground and her mouth was round the calf’s neck when many of the adult Buffalo started challenging the Lioness by moving towards her in a group. The Lioness let go of the calf, which got up and ran off! It was all so exciting to watch the hunt, but we were most pleased that the calf got away. There was also a number of Bohor Reedbuck in that area.

We arrived at the Serengeti Explorer Camp, on the slope above Lake Ndutu at 2pm. We were welcomed by Jackson, the Assistant Camp manager. After we had been introduced to our luxury tents, each containing a couple of double beds, flushing toilet, shower, electricity, furniture etc, and having a very nice lunch, Asgar, the Camp Manager, gave us a full briefing with particular emphasis on our safety at night, as this was a wild, unfenced site.

We went out again at 4pm, down to Lake Ndutu (sometimes called Lake Lagarja), which to our amazement was totally dry and no wetland birds were there. What a contrast from the previous year when there were many Flamingoes and lots of waders. We did see a stunning male Common Rock Thrush though. We got back to our camp at 6pm and after showers, settled down by the campfire to partake in the free drinks and snacks. It started raining however and we had to beat a hasty retreat to the lounge tent.

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Day 10 Saturday 18th February

As much of the action seemed to be centred on the Seronera area of the park, we returned there today, carrying picnic lunches. We left camp after a hearty breakfast at 7.45am and weren’t disappointed with Seronera. En route we had a lovely encounter with a very relaxed family of five Golden Jackals, as well as lovely Great Spotted and Dideric Cuckoos.

We went back to the wetland area near the Simba Kopjes where we had all the lion action yesterday, but neither they nor the Buffalo were anywhere to be seen! We did, though, have fabulous, long views of a Serval which was much admired.

On our arrival in the Seronera area we had brief views of a Leopard on the ground. A party of Warthog was nearby and it looked like it may have been hunting those, as it immediately disappeared low down as they came in to view. We waited a while, but didn’t see it again.

After that, we visited an area known as Korongo ya Johni, an area famed for big cats. We soon came across a magnificent Leopard in a roadside tree that others were watching. Our drivers manoeuvred our vehicles into positions which afforded great views. The telescope was not used as we were so close. We were literally under the tree it was in. We, of course, stayed there a long time to savour the views and felt incredibly privileged to witness this. Eventually we moved off to go and have lunch, but before we left that watercourse and joined the ‘main’ road, our drivers spotted a Cheetah in the middle distance, resting under the shade of a tree. On a roadside tree was an adult Martial Eagle, one of the most powerful eagles in Africa.

Lunch was at the Seronera Visitor Centre and most people also visited the excellent Interpretative Trail to learn more about Serengeti NP. Some very tame wildlife around our feet were Grey-headed Social-weaver, D’Arnaud’s Barbet, Unstriped Grass Mice and Rock Hyrax. A male Vitelline Masked-weaver was busy constructing a nest and it was fascinating to watch him at work. We left our lunch spot at 3pm and went back to see the Leopard. We saw a pair of Coqui Francolin right beside our vehicle and a pair of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse with very small chicks. The Leopard was now in a new position, but still gave excellent views.

On our way back to the camp, we came across a Cheetah with a kill. It was quite close to the road, so we stayed there for a while. Between Naabi Hill and our camp, we saw many Spotted Hyenas including some fairly new- born ones which start life very blackish. We also had an obliging African Hare, which sat totally still for ages next to our vehicle.

We had been trying to get to our camp earlier, but with all the wildlife sightings en route from Seronera, we didn’t get back until dusk at 7pm!

Day 11 Sunday 19th February

There was time for some birding in the camp before we left and the best birds were a stunning male Beautiful Sunbird and a lovely Common Rock Thrush. Pearl-spotted Owlet was calling a lot but couldn’t be located.

Tanzania Highlights Tour Report

Many of the camp staff gathered to say goodbye to us when we left. We discovered that there were actually 16 staff looking after us including managers, waiters, chefs, ones that looked after the tents, and drivers. We had really enjoyed staying at this wonderful camp and so were sad to leave.

On our way out from the camp we came across a vehicle that had broken down with a problem with fuel not getting to the engine from the second tank. As is customary, we stopped to see if we could help. Repairs using the outside of a Bic pen and some tubing failed to get it going, so we rang our camp staff and they came to the rescue.

The next stop was the Ranger Post near L Ndutu, where we had to sign out of Serengeti NP and get our permits for the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. Unfortunately the ‘systems were down’ and after trying for about half an hour, they gave us a letter of comfort, asked us to pay at the Area HQ, and we were on our way into the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. We took a cross country route, passing the very impressive Mti wa Shetani (Devil’s tree) just before midday, and getting to the ‘main’ road soon after.

Our next major stop was Oldupai Gorge, where we had a lecture given to us by Masaki, one of the guides. We also ate our picnic lunches there. Most people also appreciated the museum; looking at the (replica) artefacts and reading the information provided. Remains of early man dating back almost two million years before the present have been found here at Oldupai Gorge, and it is one of the most important paleoanthropological sites in the world. It was made famous by the Leakey family and has been instrumental in furthering the understanding of early human evolution. No wonder it is often called the Cradle of Mankind. We were there from about 12.30pm to 2pm.

After leaving Oldupai, it was uphill to the Ngorongoro Crater rim, and we had to call at the Ngorongoro Conservation Area Authority offices to pay our permits. We left there at 3.30pm, passed the viewpoint where we had first seen the Ngorongoro Crater at 3.50pm and about 4.30pm we arrived at the wonderful Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge, our base for the next three nights. The views of the crater were great from the lodge, our rooms were massive and the whole place was very impressive. A nice touch for most of us was having a hot water bottle placed in to our beds each night!

Day 12 Monday 20th February

Unfortunately Caroline was not feeling up to coming with us, so she stayed back at the lodge: a great place to relax and she saw a number of new birds too. The rest of us left the lodge at 7.40am and were through the entrance gate by 8am. The descent and ascents for the Crater are so easy when staying at the Sopa Lodge, with rarely any queues going down, unlike the Seneto descent which can be very busy indeed. The slopes at the Sopa lodge are quite gentle too. We took our time going down, looking for wildlife en route with best birds being a fine male Whinchat and a couple of Rosy-throated Longclaws. We also had great views of a perched Augur Buzzard and also saw the gorgeous African Flame Lily (Gloriosa superb) too.

Inside the crater, we first headed to the Munge River, an area well known for Lions with a large pride there, although they are not ‘guaranteed’ of course. We did see three females and one cub briefly before they disappeared into thick riverine bush. Shortly afterwards we arrived at a spot where we just caught the tail end of Lions mating right by the road. As they mate so frequently, we knew it would happen again soon so we waited

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and they obliged about 25 minutes later. It must have been towards the end of the period when the Lioness was in heat as at the height, the interval can be as little as ten minutes and they mate night and day at that rate!

Around midday we explored the Lerai Forest, dominated by massive Yellow-barked Acacia trees. We had a wonderful encounter with a very relaxed group of Elephants very close to our vehicles. Unusually, this was a breeding herd with small young too. Normally, only male Elephants are encountered down in the Crater. There was a male there and he mated with a female whilst we watched.

Mid-afternoon, we went back to the Munge River to see if the Lions had emerged from hiding. We came across two magnificent males and were watching them when one sat bolt upright and started earnestly watching a young Buffalo that had wandered into view. The other male disappeared into the river course and appeared some distance away from the Buffalo; and then the hunt was on. With stealthy moves, a male Lion approached closer to the Buffalo and brought it down. It was thrilling to watch all the proceedings and we watched the two males feasting on the Buffalo for a while. A short while later we saw six other Lions, including a suckling cub, on the other side of the Munge River. It had been an amazing afternoon and we got back to our lodge at 5.30pm. There was time to do some birdwatching in the grounds with the highlight being a stunning male Golden-winged Sunbird.

It was Melissa’s birthday today and the staff sang and danced for her and brought her a cake. A nice touch! After dark, the night guards pointed out to Zul two Spotted Eagle Owls which were perched on the roof of one of the rooms, but unfortunately, everyone else had gone to bed.

Day 13 Tuesday 21st February

It was a very early start for us today. We left the lodge with a packed breakfast at 5.50am. Tea and biscuits were available from 5.30am which we all found very welcome. By 6am we were at the gate, and down on the Crater floor a quarter of an hour later. We saw several Montane Nightjars on the way down.

We went back to the Munge River and were rewarded with thirteen Lions – nine cubs and four adult females. The cubs were very playful and very healthy-looking. It was wonderful to be there; on our own for much of the time. We stayed with them for over an hour. We saw the mating pair of Lions again, but this time they were a bit more distant. We had our packed breakfasts at Ngoitokitok Springs and enjoyed walking about and were surrounded by some very tame birds including many Speke’s and Rufous-tailed Weavers.

Our drive after breakfast produced eight more Lions, including cubs, at a roadside culvert into which they kept disappearing. Just before midday, we came across some Black Rhinoceros. We had great views of a mother and young, with another mother and young a bit more distant. One of our vehicles had two more! Six Rhinoceros was an exceptional number of an animal that is sometimes quite difficult to locate. We went back to the Hippo Pool, partly for Caroline’s benefit, as she had missed out yesterday.

Some great raptors were seen during our morning in the crater including Black-shouldered Kite, Montagu’s Harrier, Shikra, Tawny Eagle, Secretary-bird, Common Kestrel, Eurasian Hobby and Lanner Falcon.

Tanzania Highlights Tour Report

We were back at the lodge about 2.15pm, had lunch and a little rest, and then birded the lodge grounds from 4.30pm to 6pm. Many birds were seen including Streaky Seedeater, Tropical Boubou, Robin-chat, Augur Buzzard, several Eastern Double-collared Sunbirds, Dusky Flycatcher, Olive Thrush, Montane White-Eye, White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher and Hunter’s Cisticola.

Whilst we were having dinner, a tropical storm raged with much sheet and some forked lightning and torrential rain.

Day 14 Wednesday 22nd February

Our time in the Ngorongoro area had sadly come to an end. There was, however, some time for birding in the grounds and taking in the breathtaking views of the crater before we left the lodge just after 8.15am. We stopped at the main viewpoint (where we had first seen the Crater on 15th February) for ten minutes and got to the exit gate just after 9.30am. The exit formalities and toilet stop were completed quite quickly, and we were away soon after. It was a tarmac road again after over a week without it!

After a short drive on the tarmac, through the busy town of Karatu, we stopped at a roadside workshop where Makonde carvers (Ujamaa Wood Carvers) were plying their crafts. It was great to see them at work and some of us bought items of their handiwork. A few minutes after leaving there, we arrived at the wonderful Gibb’s Farm. Everyone was instantly impressed by the ambience of the place. Gibb’s is an old coffee plantation with wonderful flower and vegetable gardens, great views and a superb place for just ‘chilling out’. It is next to the Ngorongoro Highland Forest Reserve and so has some very good birding too. There was also a bird table which was frequented by many birds. We spent about two hours here, with most people just relaxing, whilst others took a tour of the gardens, looking at farm animals or just exploring the place on their own. Bronze Sunbird and the gorgeous White-tailed Blue Flycatcher were new birds for the trip.

We had an early lunch together with Daniel and Martin and afterwards we all had the opportunity to thank them for all that they had done for us on the safari. They had both been outstanding driver/guides. We had a quick stop at an amazing place which was absolutely packed with souvenirs before leaving for Arusha at 3.10pm. About two hours later we arrived at the Ranger Safari offices, where a Transfer Bus awaited (with driver Festo) to take everyone to Kilimanjaro International Airport, except Zul who was staying on in Arusha for his sabbatical project. Once at the airport, we caught our flight back to the UK.

It had been a great safari and everyone will have their own wildlife highlights. For Zul, it was the vast number of animals in the Serengeti, the two Lion kills, the Serval, the superb Leopard on our second visit to Seronera in the Serengeti NP and over 300 bird species seen.

Day 15 Thursday 23rd February

In the early morning our flight landed back in the UK and another Naturetrek adventure came to an end.

Tour Report Tanzania Highlights

Species Lists

Birds (=recorded but not counted; H = heard only; K = thousand) February Common name Scientific name 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 1 Ostrich Struthio camelus 20 25 12 10 3 40 25 20 20 10 2 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis 200+ 1 3 Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus 3 4 Pink-backed Pelican Pelecanus rufescens 300+ 5 Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo 1 6 Long-tailed Cormorant Phalacrocorax africanus 3 30+ 7 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea 1 3 1 1 8 Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala 10 6 4 30+ 2 6 2 3 9 Purple Heron Ardea purpurea 1* 10 Great Egret Ardea alba 1 20+ 1 11 Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia 30+ 12 Little Egret Egretta garzetta 50+ 13 Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides 40+ 1 3 3 14 Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis 50+ 500+ 100+ 100+ 50+ 50+ 50+ 30+ 100+ 100+ 15 Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax 10 12 16 Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus 2 17 Hamerkop Scopus umbretta 1 1 2 1 1 2 1 1 18 Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibis 200+ 1 1 1 1 19 Abdim's Stork Ciconia abdimii 5 2 75+ 50 20 Eurasian White Stork Ciconia ciconia 30 12 21 Saddle-billed Stork Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis 2 2 22 Marabou Stork Leptoptilos crumeniferus 3 7 1 6 1 2 20 30 2 2 1 23 Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus 1 1 4 5 100+ 30 24 Hadada Ibis Bostrychia hagedash 2 1 20 25 Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus 40 26 African Spoonbill Platalea alba 20 1 27 Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus 20+ 3 28 Lesser Flamingo Phoenicopterus minor 50+ 29 Fulvous Whistling Duck Dendrocygna bicolor 15 1

Tanzania Highlights Tour Report

February Common name Scientific name 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 30 White-faced Whistling Duck Dendrocygna viduata 250+ 31 Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiacus 10 2 2 50+ 2 20 15 20 3 30 30 32 Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis 1 33 Comb Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos 2 6 34 Cape Teal Anas capensis 100+ 8 2 35 Red-billed Duck Anas erythrorhyncha 4 40 2 10 6 36 Hottentot Teal Anas hottentota 8 15 20 37 Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata 20 30 20 38 Southern Pochard Netta erythrophthalma 75+ 1 39 Maccoa Duck Oxyura maccoa 1 40 Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus 4 1 1 1 41 Yellow-billed Kite Milvus migrans aegyptius 2 2 2 1 6 1 42 African Fish Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer 2 43 Palm-nut Vulture Gypohierax angolensis 1 44 White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus 10 50+ 20 8 20 4 1 45 Ruppell's Griffon Gyps rueppellii 2 1 46 Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos tracheliotus 2 2 2 47 White-headed Vulture Trigonoceps occipitalis 1 1 1 1 48 Black-breasted Snake Eagle Circaetus pectoralis 1 1 49 Brown Snake Eagle Circaetus cinereus 1 1 1 50 Bateleur Terathopius ecaudatus 6 5 3 1 6 3 2 51 Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus 2 1 52 Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus 1 1m 1m 1m 53 Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus 3 2 1 5 4 2 2 2 3 54 African Harrier Hawk Polyboroides typus 2 2 1 55 Eastern Chanting Goshawk Melierax poliopterus 1 56 Gabar Goshawk Micronisus gabar 1 57 Shikra Accipiter badius 1 58 Common Buzzard Buteo buteo 1 59 Augur Buzzard Buteo augur 3 1 1 1 2 2 60 Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax 1 2 1 2 2 4 2 1 61 Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis 1+ 4 4

Tanzania Highlights Tour Report

February Common name Scientific name 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 62 African Hawk-Eagle Aquila spilogaster 1 2 63 Martial Eagle Polemaetus bellicosus 1 1 1 64 Secretarybird Sagittarius serpentarius 2 1 6 5 2 2 65 Pygmy Falcon Polihierax semitorquatus 2 1 2 66 Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni 6 1 5 67 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus 1 4 68 Greater Kestrel Falco rupicoloides 2 69 Grey Kestrel Falco ardosiaceus 1 70 Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo 1 71 Lanner Falcon Falco biarmicus 2 72 Coqui Francolin Francolinus coqui 2 73 Crested Francolin Francolinus sephaena H 2 4 74 Scaly Francolin Francolinus squamatus 4 75 Hildebrandt's Francolin Francolinus hildebrandti 2 1 76 Yellow-necked Francolin Francolinus leucoscepus 10 8 6 1 77 Grey-breasted Francolin Francolinus rufopictus 2 1 1 1 78 Red-necked Francolin Francolinus afer 4 4 3 2 79 Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris 6 25 20 10 12 10 30 15 30 50 50 80 Grey Crowned-crane Balearica regulorum 2 2 50 50 81 Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostris 25+ 1 1 1 2 2 82 Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus 2 4 4 83 African Swamphen Porphyrio madagascariensis 3 84 Red-knobbed Coot Fulica cristata 3 6 5 85 Kori Bustard Ardeotis kori 10 4 10 2 12 20 86 White-bellied Bustard Eupodotis senegalensis 1 2 7 87 Black-bellied Bustard Lissotis melanogaster 1 88 Hartlaub's Bustard Lissotis hartlaubii 2 89 African Jacana Actophilornis africanus 10 2 90 Greater Painted Snipe Rostratula benghalensis 1 91 Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus 10 2 4 10 4 92 Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta 1 93 Water Thick-knee Burhinus vermiculatus 2

Tanzania Highlights Tour Report

February Common name Scientific name 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 94 Spotted Thick-knee Burhinus capensis 1 95 Temminck's Courser Cursorius temminckii 1 96 Double-banded Courser Smutsornis africanus 2 5 1 1 1 2 97 Three-banded Courser Rhinoptilus cinctus 3 98 Long-toed Lapwing Vanellus crassirostris 10 1 3 99 Blacksmith Lapwing Vanellus armatus 20 10 40 20 12 30 20 50 40 100 Spur-winged Lapwing Vanellus spinosus 3 2 101 Black-winged Lapwing Vanellus melanopterus 6 4 102 Crowned Lapwing Vanellus coronatus 20 15 6 4 6 12 15 6 4 103 Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula 4 6 2 104 Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius pecuarius 2 6 105 Three-banded Plover Charadrius tricollaris 1 2 2 1 106 Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago 2 1 2 1 1 1 107 Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa 1 108 Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis 2 4 2 4 1 2 109 Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia 2 10 1 1 1 110 Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus 1 1 1 111 Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola 6 10 20 20 2 10 6 10 2 1 112 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos 2 4 2 3 2 1 1 1 113 Little Stint Calidris minuta 10 30 20 20 10 10 2 114 Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea 1 115 Ruff Philomachus pugnax 30 6 20 6 10 10 10 30 15 116 Grey-headed Gull Larus cirrocephalus 1 117 Gull-billed Tern Sterna nilotica 45 1 4 118 Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida 6+ 50+ 119 White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus 20+ 50+ 2 120 Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles exustus 1 2 121 Yellow-throated Sandgrouse Pterocles gutturalis 50 10 30+ 122 Black-faced Sandgrouse Pterocles decoratus 2 123 Speckled Pigeon Columba guinea 1 10 1 1 124 African Olive Pigeon Columba arquatrix 1 20 125 Dusky Turtle Dove Streptopelia lugens 4 30

Tanzania Highlights Tour Report

February Common name Scientific name 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 126 African Mourning Dove Streptopelia decipiens 1 1 2 127 Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata 2 2 1 1 128 Ring-necked Dove Streptopelia capicola 10 20 6 1 1 4 20 2 129 Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis 2 130 Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove Turtur chalcospilos 1 1 2 131 Tambourine Dove Turtur tympanistria 1 1 132 Namaqua Dove Oena capensis 1 133 African Green Pigeon Treron calva 2 1 1 134 Fischer's Lovebird Agapornis fischeri 2 12 6 10 135 Yellow-collared Lovebird Agapornis personatus 20 25 20 136 Meyer's Parrot Poicephalus meyeri 4 3 137 Red-bellied Parrot Poicephalus rufiventris 2 138 Hartlaub's Turaco Tauraco hartlaubi 6+ 139 Bare-faced Go-away-bird Corythaixoides personatus 1 1 1 1 1 140 White-bellied Go-away-bird Corythaixoides leucogaster 2 2 141 Great Spotted Cuckoo Clamator glandarius 1 142 Red-chested Cuckoo Cuculus solitarius 2 143 Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus 1 1 2 144 African Cuckoo Cuculus gularis 1 145 Klaas' Cuckoo Chrysococcyx klaas H 146 Dideric Cuckoo Chrysococcyx caprius 2 1 1 1 1 2 147 White-browed Coucal Centropus superciliosus 2 1 148 African Scops Owl Otus senegalensis 1 1 1 149 Spotted Eagle-Owl Bubo africanus 1 2 150 Verreaux's Eagle-Owl Bubo lacteus 2 151 Pearl-spotted Owlet Glaucidium perlatum 2 1 1 1 152 Montane Nightjar Caprimulgus ruwenzorii 4 153 Nightjar sp. 1 154 Mottled Spinetail Telacanthura ussheri 2 155 African Palm Swift Cypsiurus parvus 2 10 156 Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba 1 157 Common Swift Apus apus 50+ 3 3 2 20

Tanzania Highlights Tour Report

February Common name Scientific name 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 158 African Swift Apus barbatus 2 159 White-rumped Swift Apus caffer 1 160 Speckled Mousebird Colius striatus 6 6 2 10 4 1 2 2 2 161 Blue-naped Mousebird Urocolius macrourus 5 162 Grey-headed Kingfisher Halcyon leucocephala 2 1 2 163 Woodland Kingfisher Halcyon senegalensis 1 1 1 1 2 2 164 Striped Kingfisher Halcyon chelicuti 1 1 165 Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis 1 166 White-fronted Bee-eater Merops bullockoides 5 167 Little Bee-eater Merops pusillus 5 2 4 4 2 1 3 168 Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater Merops oreobates 3 169 Blue-cheeked Bee-eater Merops persicus 2 6 2 170 European Bee-eater Merops apiaster 1 3 40+ 171 White-throated Bee-eater Merops albicollis 1 172 European Roller Coracias garrulus 1 5 2 4 3 2 1 3 173 Lilac-breasted Roller Coracias caudata 10 12 5 4 6 4 5 2 174 Broad-billed Roller Eurystomus glaucuru 1 175 African Hoopoe Upupa africana 1 176 Green Woodhoopoe Phoeniculus purpureus 5 1 177 Abyssinian Scimitarbill Rhinopomastus minor 1 1 178 Red-billed Hornbill Tockus erythrorhynchus 4 5 179 Von Der Decken's Hornbill Tockus deckeni 4 4 1 180 Crowned Hornbill Tockus alboterminatus 2 6 181 African Grey Hornbill Tockus nasutus 4 182 Silvery-cheeked Hornbill Ceratogymna brevis 6 6+ 20+ 183 Southern Ground-hornbill Bucorvus leadbeateri 6 184 White-eared Barbet Stactolaema leucotis 10 2 185 White-headed Barbet Lybius leucocephalus 2 186 Brown-breasted Barbet Lybius melanopterus 1 1 187 Red-and-yellow Barbet Trachyphonus erythrocephalus 4 1 188 Usambiro Barbet Trachyphonus usambiro 2 189 Nubian Woodpecker Campethera nubica 1

Tanzania Highlights Tour Report

February Common name Scientific name 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 190 Cardinal Woodpecker Dendropicos fuscescens 1 1 1 191 Bearded Woodpecker Dendropicos namaquus 1 192 Grey Woodpecker Dendropicos goertae 1 1 193 Rufous-naped Lark Mirafra africana 4 5 6 194 Fischer's Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix leucopareia 20 10 20 30 20 10 195 Red-capped Lark Calandrella cinerea 1 2 2 196 Sand Martin Riparia riparia 1 197 Plain Martin Riparia paludicola 50 198 Banded Martin Riparia cincta 2 2 199 Rock Martin Ptyonoprogne fuligula 2 4 6 4 2 200 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica 3000+ 6 20 10 6 10 12 10 20 30 201 Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii 2 202 Lesser Striped Swallow Cecropis abyssinica 4 2 6 1 1 203 Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica 4 2 2 6 10 10 6 204 Black Sawwing Psalidoprocne pristoptera 5 2 2 2 1 205 African Pied Wagtail Motacilla aguimp 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 2 206 Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava 2 10 6 6 30 207 Rosy-throated Longclaw Macronyx ameliae 2 1 208 Plain-backed Pipit Anthus leucophrys 2 2 1 1 209 African Pipit Anthus cinnamomeus 1 1 210 Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis 1 4 211 Common Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus 20 10 6 4 6 4 1 1 6 10 212 Eastern Mountain-Greenbul Andropadus nigriceps 1 213 Yellow-bellied Greenbul Chlorocichla flaviventris 2 214 Olive Thrush Turdus olivaceus 1 1 2 215 Trilling Cisticola Cisticola woosnami 4 216 Hunter's Cisticola Cisticola hunteri 1 2 6 217 Rattling Cisticola Cisticola chiniana 2 1 2 218 Winding Cisticola Cisticola galactotes 1 1 219 Tawny-flanked Prinia Prinia subflava 2 1 220 Yellow-breasted Apalis Apalis flavida 1 221 Green-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brachyura 1 2

Tanzania Highlights Tour Report

February Common name Scientific name 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 222 Eastern Olivaceous Warbler Hippolais pallida 1 1 223 Buff-bellied Warbler Phyllolais pulchella 4 224 Red-faced Crombec Sylvietta whytii 1 225 Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus 2 1 226 Cinnamon Bracken Warbler Bradypterus cinnamomeus H 227 Banded Warbler Sylvia boehmi 1 1 228 Silverbird Empidornis semipartitus 1 6 2 1 229 African Grey Flycatcher Bradornis microrhynchus 1 1 230 White-eyed Slaty-flycatcher Melaenornis fischeri 1 2 4 4 2 231 Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata 1 1 1 1 232 African Dusky Flycatcher Muscicapa adusta 1 2 233 Chinspot Batis Batis molitor 2 2 234 Cape Robin-Chat Cossypha caffra 2 3 4 235 White-browed Robin-Chat Cossypha heuglini 1 1 1 236 Spotted Morning-thrush Cichladusa guttata 4 237 White-browed Scrub-Robin Cercotrichas leucophrys 1 238 Whinchat Saxicola rubetra 1 1 239 African Stonechat Saxicola torquata 1 6 2 240 Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe 1 2 2 1 241 Pied Wheatear Oenanthe pleschanka 1 242 Capped Wheatear Oenanthe pileata 10+ 1 1 2 2 243 Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina 1 1 244 Schalow's Wheatear Oenanthe lugens schalowi 1 Wheatear sp. 10

245 Northern Anteater-chat Myrmecocichla aethiops 4 4 246 White-tailed Blue Flycatcher Elminia albicauda 2 247 African Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone viridis 1 4 248 Black-lored Babbler Turdoides sharpei 2 6 1 2 249 Arrow-marked Babbler Turdoides jardineii 1 250 Rufous Chatterer Turdoides rubiginosa 1 251 Red-throated Tit Melaniparus fringillinus 2 252 Collared Sunbird Hedydipna collaris 2 2

Tanzania Highlights Tour Report

February Common name Scientific name 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 253 Amethyst Sunbird Chalcomitra amethystina 1 1 254 Scarlet-chested Sunbird Chalcomitra senegalensis 1 2 255 Tacazze Sunbird Nectarinia tacazze 1 256 Bronze Sunbird Nectarinia kilimensis 1 257 Malachite Sunbird Nectarinia famosa 2 258 Golden-winged Sunbird Drepanorhynchus reichenowi 1 1 259 Eastern Double-collared Sunbird Cinnyris mediocris 1 2 4 260 Beautiful Sunbird Cinnyris pulchellus 1 1 1 1 261 Variable Sunbird Cinnyris venustus 1 2 2 262 Marico Sunbird Cinnyris mariquensis 1 263 Montane White-Eye Zosterops poliogastrus 3 264 African Black-headed Oriole Oriolus larvatus 2 1 265 Isabelline Shrike Lanius isabellinus 1 1 1 266 Grey-backed Fiscal Lanius excubitoroides 1 2 2 267 Long-tailed Fiscal Lanius cabanisi 4 2 268 Common Fiscal Lanius collaris 2 5 4 269 Magpie Shrike Corvinella melanoleuca 20 12 6 4 1 2 270 Northern White-crowned Shrike Eurocephalus rueppelli 2 12 5 4 4 12 6 3 271 Brubru Nilaus afer 1 272 Black-backed Puffback Dryoscopus cubla 1 273 Black-crowned Tchagra Tchagra senegala 1 1 274 Brown-crowned Tchagra Tchagra australis 1 1 2 275 Tropical Boubou Laniarius aethiopicus 1 1 276 Slate-coloured Boubou Laniarius funebris 2 1 2 2 277 White Helmetshrike Prionops plumatus 278 Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis 2 1 2 1 3 2 1 279 Pied Crow Corvus albus 4 4 6+ 5 280 White-necked Raven Corvus albicollis 2 1 2 281 Wattled Starling Creatophora cinerea 3 5 10 25 50 30 282 Ruppell's Glossy Starling Lamprotornis purpuropterus 10 10 10 6 283 Superb Starling Lamprotornis superbus 6 40 50 10 20 8 50 50 50 20 12 284 Hildebrandt's Starling Lamprotornis hildebrandti 4 2 10 10 2

Tanzania Highlights Tour Report

February Common name Scientific name 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 285 Ashy Starling Spreo unicolor 10 20 6 286 Red-winged Starling Onychognathus morio 2 287 Red-billed Oxpecker Buphagus erythrorhynchus 3 10 10 2 20 2 10 288 Yellow-billed Oxpecker Buphagus africanus 2 1 2 1 289 House Sparrow Passer domesticus 4 1 1 290 Kenya Rufous-sparrow Passer rufocinctus 2 291 Grey-headed Sparrow Passer griseus 12 6 10 6 6 10 10 292 Chestnut Sparrow Passer eminibey 4 8 3 4 293 Yellow-spotted Petronia Petronia pyrgita 1 294 Red-billed Buffalo-weaver Bubalornis niger 20 20 6 6 4 295 White-headed Buffalo-weaver Dinemellia dinemelli 6 10 2 2 2 296 Speckle-fronted Weaver Sporopipes frontalis 4 2 6 2 4 297 Rufous-tailed Weaver Histurgops ruficauda 20 6 10 4 4 4 6 10 12 298 Grey-headed Social-weaver Pseudonigrita arnaudi 20 299 Baglafecht Weaver Ploceus baglafecht 2 2 15 300 Lesser Masked Weaver Ploceus intermedius 2 2 10 301 Spectacled Weaver Ploceus ocularis 2 302 Taveta Golden Weaver Ploceus castaneiceps 4 303 Vitelline Masked-weaver Ploceus vitellinus 2 10 304 Speke's Weaver Ploceus spekei 12 305 Red-headed Weaver Anaplectes rubriceps 1 306 Yellow Bishop Euplectes capensis 1 307 Fan-tailed Widowbird Euplectes axillaris 4 30 308 Red-collared Widowbird Euplectes ardens 1 4 309 Grosbeak Weaver Amblyospiza albifrons 1 310 Red-billed Firefinch Lagonosticta senegala 4 20 311 Red-cheeked Cordonbleu Uraeginthus bengalus 6 1 312 Blue-capped Cordonbleu Uraeginthus cyanocephalus 2 2 313 Purple Grenadier Uraeginthus ianthinogaster 1 2 314 Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild 1 315 Black-faced Waxbill Estrilda erythronotos 1 316 Bronze Mannikin Lonchura cucullatus 6

Tanzania Highlights Tour Report

February Common name Scientific name 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 317 Black-and-white Mannikin Lonchura bicolor 15 318 African Silverbill Lonchura cantans 12 319 Pin-tailed Whydah Vidua macroura 15 1 320 African Citril Serinus citrinelloides 1 321 Yellow-fronted Canary Serinus mozambicus 1 322 White-bellied Canary Serinus dorsostriatus 1 3 2 323 Streaky Seedeater Serinus striolatus 2 10 4 324 Cinnamon-breasted Bunting Emberiza tahapisi 1

Mammals 1 Warthog Phacochoerus aethiopicus 20 20 20 20 10 20 10 10 1 25 20 2 Hippopotamus Hippopotamus amphibius 2 30 25+ 50 12 40 100+ 80+ 3 Masai Giraffe Giraffa camelopardalis 20 6 40 5 10 50 20 10 30 4 Kirk's Dik-Dik Rhynchotragus kirki 4 6 10 4 2 2 5 Bushbuck Tragelaphus scriptus 10 1 1 1 6 Eland Taurotragus oryx 8 20 15 7 Common Waterbuck Kobus ellipsiprymnus 20 12 20 10 8 Defassa Waterbuck Kobus ellipsiprymnus defassa 12 10 12 2 9 Bohor Reedbuck Redunca redunca 4 2 1 8 10 Topi Damaliscus korrigum 5 10 10 6 11 Coke's Hartebeeste Alcelaphus buselaphus cokii 1 10 6 15 12 Blue Wildebeest Connochaetes taurinus 100+ 300+ 50 200+ 200k+ 50 5k+ 200 200 200 13 Impala Aepyceros melampus 75 150+ 40 50+ 100+ 75 50 20 14 Grant's Gazelle Gazella granti 10 200+ 20 100 200+ 10 50 50 15 Thomson's Gazelle Gazella thomsoni 1000+ 500+ 1000+ 2k+ 200 200 150 16 Red Duiker Cephalophus natalensis 2 17 African Buffalo Syncerus caffer 200 500+ 10 50 500+ 400+ 200 10 100 200 18 Plains Zebra Equus quagga 30 100+ 300+ 30 100 100k+ 1000+ 10k+ 300 200 300 19 Black Rhinoceros Diceros bicornis 6 5 20 Yellow-spotted Rock Hyrax Heterohyrax brucei 2 1 30 21 African Elephant Loxodonta africana 60 100+ 10 40 100+ 30 20 1 20 20 22 Unstriped Ground Squirrel Xerus rutilus 1 4

Tanzania Highlights Tour Report

February Common name Scientific name 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 Ochre Bush Squirrel Paraxerus ochraceus 4 24 African Hare Lepus habessinicus 2 2 1 25 African Grass Rat Arvicanthis niloticus 10 4 6 1 26 Black-backed Jackal Canis mesomelas 4 2 2 2* 3 3 3 27 Golden (Common) Jackal Canis aureus 1 7 4 2 28 Slender Mongoose Herpestes sanguineus 1 1* 29 Banded Mongoose Mungos mungo 2 30 10 30 Eastern Dwarf Mongoose Helogale parvula 5 12 6 31 Spotted Hyena Crocuta crocuta 3 6 4 25 20 8 32 Lion Panthera leo 8 4 11 12 16 24 33 Leopard Panthera pardus 1 2 2 34 Cheetah Acinonyx jubatus 3 2 2 35 Serval Felis serval 1 36 Olive Baboon Papio anubis 50 30 50 40 50 25 15 30 37 Blue Monkey Cercopithecus mitis 20 12 2 10 1 38 Vervet Monkey Cercopithecus aethiops 10 4 10 2 6 10 10 39 Guereza Colobus Colobus guereza 15+ 40 Free-tailed Bat sp. family Molossidae 1

Others

1 Rufous Beaked Snake Rhamphiophis oxyrhynchus 1 2 Agama Lizard sp. family Agamidae 2 1 2+ 10 10 3 Skink sp. 5+ 4 African Flame Lily Gloriosa superba 2 5 Gecko sp. 2 6 Leopard Tortoise Stigmochelys pardalis 1 1 1 7 Nile Monitor Varanus niloticus 2 8 Grasshopper sp. 

Tanzania Highlights Tour Report

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Masai Giraffe African Elephant Black Rhinoceros African Buffalo & Lion