* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 22 * * * Wednesday 17 August 2016 The Daily Telegraph Wednesday 17 August 2016 * * * 23 FASHION BEAUTY MANTRA PUTTING CLICHÉS UNDER THE SPOTLIGHT

Jacques Cavallier, labels, such as Firmenich ever-cheaper ingredients has resulted left, has designed (where Cavallier used in a dumbed-down perfume counter the first fragrance to work in Switzerland) with some 2,000 launches a year. collection for or Quest International, No wonder this is also the era of the Should I iming your Water bottle, £25, BKR Hair tie, £4 for three, Vuitton. His signals that Vuitton is artisanal perfumier – niche names meals around (Selfridges.com) Invisibobble (topshop.com) past creations determined to do this that attempt to do something exercise on a workout can Keep in your gym bag for a chic This cult favourite keeps hair include Poême for right, in the traditional different. an empty be tricky – and hydration boost post-workout. off the acef and neck and Is this the Lancôme, and luxury-perfume way, This is the terrain Cavallier we all know stomach? T doesn’t leave kinks in your Stella for Stella without resorting to occupies, but with a blank- that the more locks. McCartney generic lowest-common cheque budget. Even his lab is By Siân complicated something denominators or superior to the average, is, the less likely we are market research. located on the top Ranscombe to do it. If you struggle to “It’s really floor of La Fontaine get it right, fear not. We a little like Parfumée, a freshly spoke to three experts world’s most working for restored, terracotta on when and what we a start-up,” pink Provençal manor should be eating before a explains house in Grasse, workout (if anything). May Cavallier. “LV complete with a you never miss a morning may be huge, but Twenties perfumed run again. we had to create fountain, which everything originally exuded Decide when to eat from scratch”. the fragrance of pre- or post-workout Magnesium Oil, £12, Kiki Health Pure Boost X shoes, £89.95, fashionable That includes whichever flower “Deciding when to eat pre- (cultbeauty.co.uk) Adidas (adidas.co.uk) sourcing all their was then in bloom or post-workout depends Ease gym aches and pains by Currently being sported by ingredients (the (visitors could fill up on a number of factors,” spritzing this on sore muscles female Team GB athletes in sharp, tangy their bottles directly), Floral inspiration on the says Claire Finlay, health after a shower. Rio. Roses de Mai of a function Vuitton catwalk, left. Vuitton’s La Fontaine and fitness consultant and Grasse smells will re-install. Parfumée in Grasse, above founder of Transition Zone very different In the house there gym. “The time of day, fragrance? from the rich, is also art nouveau ‘In the past a perfume when your last meal was, woozy roses tiling inspired by and the type of workout of Bulgaria) that in the Vuitton’s you are doing – whether it’s and the CO2 original house in was a hit if it sold two strength training, cardio extraction Asnières on the million bottles a year. or HIT (high-intensity – a secretive outskirts of Paris. training). Exercisers with process “It’s said that the Now it’s 10 million’ weight-loss goals might invented in water that ran find an advantage in Eau de Voyage in 1946, but only based mainly on flowers, because Germany through Grasse Normally, you’d expect there to waking up and exercising Louis Vuitton is launching its first the (empty) bottles remain. of the four-petal flower heads 40 years ago from the 17th be a dud, but they’re an expertly first thing in the morning, Speculation and secrecy have incorporated into LV’s classic to remove century smelled choreographed line-up. known as ‘fasted training’, Energy supplement, £65 for Probiotic water, £2.29, collection of scents. Lisa Armstrong been the setting for his work print. “For me, flowers are caffeine from of roses,” Cavallier The son of a perfume nose (his or in fasting for a few 60 capsules, Beauty Works Plenish (plenishcleanse.com) at Vuitton since Cavallier the smell of love. When you coffee. Never tells me, as we father) and a blender of ingredients hours before a mid-day West (net-a-porter.com) Bored with plain water? meets the man who has spent four was hired in 2012. Would love your wife, you give her previously used approach the (his mother), Cavallier began helping or evening workout. This An all-natural food supplement These are available in lime Project Grasse, as Cavallier flowers”. in the perfume grounds where out when he was six. By 16 he was means there will be less full of vitamins that claims to cucumber, pineapple ginger years finding the right notes and his team dubbed it, smell Naturally, there are many process, it he oversaw working full time in Grasse. He sees glucose in your system, so allow the body to break down and blueberry pear. of leather? Would the names other components. While some enables Cavallier the planting his formulae as individual silhouettes, you are more likely to tap and release energy. ow do you the delicacy, sophistication, and of its allude to travel as those noses restrict themselves to a to gather the scent of jasmine, he says, and can smell his idea of a into your stored energy, reduce Japan culture and even its cruelty. I thought previous attempts had? Might “palette” of 200 ingredients of jasmine and roses tuberoses and scent before he makes it. You don’t which means releasing to a single about its food and its nature and what it, in a sop to the current that they work with regularly, at lower than usual roses de mai. need a degree in chemistry, he insists, and burning surplus fat. aroma? What water symbolises there, of woods, mania for “edible” scents, go Cavallier prefers a wider temperatures, thereby We although the process is scientific. Having a banana about an does love osmanthus and peonies…” heavy on vanilla, chocolate or spectrum of some 2,000. Each preserving their approach It’s about artistry. “Perfection is hour before your workout smell like? Peonies, as Cavallier acknowledges, almond? morning, to give his nose a work- integrity. “When you the top when there’s a perfect rhythm is perfect.” Why does are more Chinese, but never mind, Cavallier winces at that last out, he smells five blotters of raw heat something to 95C, floor between rationality and emotions. H apricot smell because this, too, was an idea of an suggestion. He sets trends. He ingredients from his palette. “A you kill the fragility of “creative The reason each individual reacts If you eat, make it like a flower idea. Eventually, one of the monster does not follow them. Today’s the smell, you destroy atelier” for differently to a perfume isn’t only to high in protein and to certain people? You can see why fragrance hits of the past four decades vogue for caramel makes ‘A luxury scent the beauty of nature”. – finally – the unveiling of do with olefactory reactions but to carbohydrates the pragmatic process of masking was born. certain fragrances smell like So many formulae S/S 15 the seven scents and I’m do with memories, associations and “The thinking used to unpleasant odours with something Poême for Lancôme, another yoghurt, he says, although he is full of details today have little to S/S 15 immediately struck by how preconceptions.”. be that it was better not more palatable became a poetic art in smash and in 2003, Stella, for Stella suggests that their popularity do with nature, using simple and elegant the plain So much of this gets lost in today’s to eat before exercising, of exercising – but wait that happen in our bodies France. It is metaphysics combined McCartney, a youthful, sweet, and for may have something to do you don’t notice biomimicry to create black and white packing is. The perfume industry, where one nose especially first thing at least 15 minutes before during and after training. with pure physics (and chemistry), the time, complex rose that inspired with a collective yearning for a simulacrum of a beautiful bottles are similarly can work on two dozen formulations in the morning, so that eating after working out. Most of our clients train and on a searingly hot day in Grasse, a host of other rose scents, are both comforting scents. straightaway’ smell. Sometimes this understated. Innovative, and a year. “In the past a big hit was if it your body would burn For a pre-exercise snack, on an empty stomach, I find myself sitting in the shade of a Cavallier creations. He also devised Nor did he wish to pander can be spectacularly RESORT 15 RESORT 15 beautifully designed by Marc sold two million bottles a year. Now it’s more fat, says Dr Marilyn yogurt with banana as it allows them to go restaurant terrace opposite Jacques scents for Givenchy, Bulgari and to the whims of lucrative luxury perfume is full of details successful. Miss , Newson (the cult designer 10 million. You can do the maths…” Glenville, a nutritionist and berries or egg with through the movements Cavallier, one of its masters. Alexander McQueen. markets. The USA loves that you don’t necessarily notice which launched in 1947, behind the Apple watch, among As for that thorny question of who specialises in wholewheat toast, along with more ease and to It was Cavallier who, in 1991, No wonder that when Louis Vuitton sweetness. In Asia, osmanthus, straightaway,” says Cavallier, contained an entirely many other ‘‘It’’ designs), whether to spray on to your skin, women’s health. “But with some coconut water, also feel more energised. created l’eau d’Issey, an isotonic decided to launch a perfume – it is one which is reminiscent to “but they reveal themselves to synthetic rendition of they have a magnetic lid and or into the air around you, Cavallier science suggests that would be ideal.” If fasting before a training summation of Japanese culture that of the last great fashion luxury houses Westerners of apricot, reads as you during the day and the the lily of the valley, an almost transparent pump. emphatically prefers skin. “I’m it is more effective to session isn’t for you, set off a decade-long chain reaction not to have one – his track record of a floral. But Cavallier prefers longer you notice the more you because it’s impossible (Distribution will be exclusively creating one of the most intimate ‘Training on have something to eat Don’t forget your bananas are great, as of imitations. “Issey Miyake originally era-defining scents proved irresistible. to work from instinct. His notice different aspects.” to extract the scent of the through Vuitton stores, and things a man or woman can wear,” containing protein and post-exercise nutrition they provide you with an told me he wanted the smell of So yes, some considerable pressure, ultimate arbiter is his wife. Already – and I haven’t even flower. Nevertheless, it became will start from £180 for 100ml, he says. “Not air-freshener.” an empty carbohydrates in order “Training on an empty immediate energy boost water in a bottle, or the idea of water he tells me over lunch. Composing a Project Grasse (in the event sniffed them yet – I am getting one of the great masterpieces as well as a limited-edition stomach can to give you the energy stomach can boost fat and are easily digested. because water is so important in scent for a house like Vuitton, with he produced not one but the impression of largesse. of floral perfume, enshrined in flaconnier mini-trunk containing for the workout and to loss and help with toning Post-workout, remember Rose des Vents, Turbulences, Dans la boost fat Japanese ritual and cleanliness,” its 160-plus-year history of travel seven scents and yes, she The hiring itself of Cavallier, the minds of all who smell it as three bottles of perfume – yours build muscle. Ideally muscles,” says Jess to rehydrate your body peau, Apogée, Contre Moi, Matière Noire loss and says Cavallier. “But of course, water and latterly fashion, must have been loves and wears them all) is rather than reliance on one exactly how lily-of-the-valley for £3,200). you should eat 30 to 45 Schuring, founder of with plenty of water and and Mille Feux, 100 ml for £180, 200ml doesn’t smell when it’s pure. So quite a metaphorical exercise. Vuitton of the fragrance companies should smell. But squeezed But it’s the scents themselves, help tone minutes before exercise Heartcore. “This is due to a opt for a mineral and for £270; miniature carousel of 10ml x 7 I thought about Japan [which he had a trio of early scent offerings that produce perfume margins and a pattern of ever- distinctive, subtle, yet full bodied and then within two hours series of hormone reactions protein-rich snack.” The understated Vuitton scent for £180 (louisvuitton.com) muscles’ visited for several weeks] and all – Heures d’Absence in 1927 and later bottles by Marc Newson packages for many fashion sweeter formulations using and long-lasting, that most impress.

THE BROWSER From top: cowhide-tiled cuffs at Palmer//Harding; blogger DRESSES Got the blues? Rebecca Karagiorgos goes oversized; and fashion buyer FOR ALL Eva Galambos in a Céline SEASONS Just add ruffles embroidered shirt backed heavily by Net-A-Porter. Last season saw sales double Wear with compared with the season before, and sandals it has increased the now and a number it buys. It is The classic blue shirt has been given currently stocking polo neck 39 blue shirt styles, and ankle a modern makeover – and then including an excellent short-sleeved, boots later, some, says Krissy Turner embroidered number says Krissy by Tory Burch (£445, he blue shirt has THE NEW net-a-porter.com). Its Turner always been a stealth most popular design is workday classic – less DETAILS the oversized style. waitress-y and more “We believe our strong T flattering than a Embroidery sales for oversized striped white one. But if a Gucci, for a snip of the blue shirts are down simple button-down isn’t your price. This has a floral to the ease and thing then be charmed by the design on the back, too. practicality of the STRIPED COTTON DRESS, 70S DENIM DRESS, next generation of offerings, Embroidered poplin style,” reports £280, Ace & JG (matchesfashion. £295 (mih-jeans.com) which feature heady details such shirt, £29.99 (zara. Lisa Aiken, retail com) as embellishments, frills, cut-outs, com) fashion director at appliqué and even patchwork. Net-A-Porter. On the autumn/winter 2016 Asymmetric Chosen catwalks, this tribe of new blue This shirt has a carefully, the shirts featured heavily, with flattering peplum updated blue Jacquemus opting for cut- style and length. shirt will blend outs and extra-long sleeves, Waterfall-hem seamlessly into Vetements going oversized, and shirt, £275 your current Palmer//Harding’s blue V-neck (palmerharding. wardrobe. The offering cowhide-tiled cuffs, com) new tie-waist which are detachable and can be styles (Mango’s added to any of their long-sleeved The new stripe casual option is shirts (nifty, no?). Bold, skinny, horizontal, £35.99, mango.com) “Shirting was an opportunity wide – as long as there work with rigid to bring creativity to a versatile are two or more, it’s a hit. denim for weekends, piece that applies to all aspects Cocktail shirt, £88 and bolder stripes of a woman’s life, from work ( jcrew.com) (Topshop has a cute to event dressing,” say the pineapple appliqué Central St Martins-trained, Ruffles version, £34, topshop. -based design duo, Go forth and ruffle – but com) can be tucked PRINTED MIDI DRESS, CREPE DRESS, Levi Palmer and Matthew be wary of where they into a wrap skirt for £38 (asos.com) £19.99 (hm.com) Harding, who are known for are placed. Victoria evening. their directional shirting. by Victoria Beckham Issa counsels Palmer//Harding is to launch a has a great ruffled that “it’s nice to collaboration with John Lewis waistband shirt (£350, subvert a classic next month, which sees the avenue32.com), as shirt and make it label combine its signature well as this. feminine, try it with oversized and asymmetric Ruffle-trim shirt, a round skirt or shirts with the retailer’s £275, RedValentino coloured suit”. slightly more accessible ( farfetch.com) Opting for a price points (the shirts will cost longer length around £100). Collarless will extend your Caroline Issa, fashion director Ideal for work if a blazer styling options. at Tank magazine and avid is a necessity. Two collars They can blue-shirt wearer, notes that = fussy neckline. be tucked these classic-with-a-twist shirts Collarless girl-fit shirt, in, worn “have that element of surprise, £54.50 (boden.co.uk) open as a but still won’t be too crazy cover-up with for boardrooms”. Whether Embellishment a simple top that surprise is a contrasting A shirt that can smoothly underneath, collar-and-cuffs combo, or slip from work to play. or cinched PLEATED HEM SHIFT DRESS, SILK CREPE DE CHINE ORIENTAL PRINT DRESS, origami-style folding worthy Bow-embellished striped in with a thin £45 (warehouse.co.uk) MIDI DRESS, £250, Topshop £145 (uterque.com) of trophies, the aesthetic of shirt, £375, JW Anderson belt. Classic it may Unique (net-a-porter.com) the blue shirt is fast evolving. (net-a-porter.com) be, but boring it is

The blue shirt 2.0 is being certainly not. ISIDORE MONTAG IMAGES; GETTY