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A Story of Bean-To-Bar Chocolate Production in New Zealand

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A Story of Bean-To-Bar Chocolate Production in New Zealand Raising the bar: A story of bean-to-bar chocolate production in New Zealand Arno Sturny 2019 A dissertation submitted to Auckland University of Technology in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Gastronomy Supervisors Dr David Williamson Dr Tracy Harkison Abstract Chocolate is considered one of the most gratifying confections there is, and this holds as true in New Zealand as elsewhere in the world. While broader culinary traditions in New Zealand have been well documented, the food history of chocolate production has not yet been explored. Consequently, this study explores the history of chocolate production, with a specific focus on bean-to-bar chocolate production, in New Zealand. Within the realm of a qualitative and interpretive paradigm, this work, based on a narrative history and interviews with current bean-to-bar chocolate makers in New Zealand, traces the history of bean-to-bar chocolate production in New Zealand. This process allowed for a multi-faceted reconstruction and interpretation of historical data to help understand various transformations within New Zealand’s chocolate industry, an industry long dominated by multinational companies such as Cadbury and Nestlé. This domination by overseas companies has recently been challenged by the emergence of small artisanal bean-to-bar chocolate makers and the rise of local chocolate company Whittaker’s. Among the key findings is evidence of the maturing of the local chocolate industry to the point where it is clear that New Zealand-made chocolate is now widely viewed and trusted by local consumers as a high-quality product. This trust extends to both the current strong player in the market, Whittaker’s, and equally to smaller artisanal bean- to-bar chocolate makers, a confidence in product comparable to the New Zealand craft beer industry and the more well-established wine industry. The research also finds that the emergence of more artisanal bean-to-bar chocolate makers and their focus on more transparency around the production of chocolate reflects similar trends overseas, highlighting the fragile structure surrounding growth and sustainability in the chocolate production industry. The findings of the research are timely as they highlight opportunities for the industry to place current worldwide sustainability concerns in perspective with a view to the future, a future which New Zealand chocolate manufacturers cannot avoid. ii Table of contents Abstract .........................................................................................................................ii Table of contents .......................................................................................................... iii List of figures ................................................................................................................vi List of tables .................................................................................................................vi Declaration of authorship ............................................................................................. vii Acknowledgments ....................................................................................................... viii Glossary of technical terms ...........................................................................................ix – Introduction ............................................................................................... 1 1.1 Introduction ..................................................................................................... 1 1.2 Background of study ....................................................................................... 1 1.3 Aim and scope ................................................................................................ 3 1.4 Methodological approach to the research ....................................................... 3 1.5 Significance of the research ............................................................................ 4 1.6 Dissertation structure ...................................................................................... 5 Chapter 2 – Historical context ....................................................................................... 6 2.1 Introduction to chocolate ................................................................................. 6 2.2 Timeline: From bitter drink to chocolate .......................................................... 6 2.3 Timeline: Chocolate from bean to bar ............................................................. 7 2.4 Contemporary commercial production of chocolate ........................................ 9 2.4.1 Global cocoa production .......................................................................... 9 2.4.2 Production from cacao bean to chocolate .............................................. 10 2.4.3 Definition of chocolate ........................................................................... 11 2.4.4 Production from cacao bean to moulded eating chocolate ..................... 12 2.5 Changes within the commercial chocolate industry ....................................... 12 2.5.1 The artisanal bean-to-bar movement ..................................................... 12 2.5.2 Fine flavoured cocoa beans ................................................................... 14 2.5.3 Challenges ............................................................................................ 15 2.6 Summary ...................................................................................................... 17 – Methodology ............................................................................................ 18 3.1 Introduction ................................................................................................... 18 3.2 Research aims and objectives ...................................................................... 18 3.3 Theoretical framework .................................................................................. 18 3.3.1 Paradigm ............................................................................................... 19 3.3.2 Ontology ................................................................................................ 20 3.3.3 Epistemology ......................................................................................... 20 3.3.4 Paradigm choice .................................................................................... 21 3.3.5 Methodology .......................................................................................... 22 iii 3.4 Research methods ....................................................................................... 23 3.4.1 Data sources ......................................................................................... 23 3.4.2 Secondary data ..................................................................................... 23 3.4.3 Primary data .......................................................................................... 24 3.4.4 Samples ................................................................................................ 25 3.4.5 Data collection ....................................................................................... 27 3.4.6 Data analysis ......................................................................................... 29 3.4.7 Thematic analysis .................................................................................. 29 – Research findings 1 ................................................................................. 31 4.1 Introduction ................................................................................................... 31 4.1.1 Main Themes ......................................................................................... 31 4.2 A history of bean-to-bar chocolate production in New Zealand: Theme discussion………………………………………………………………………….. 32 4.2.1 Introduction ............................................................................................ 32 4.2.2 Pioneer era (1850s) ............................................................................... 32 4.2.3 Production era (1930 - 2000) ................................................................. 43 4.2.4 Innovation era (2000s) ........................................................................... 59 4.2.5 New Zealand artisan bean-to-bar chocolate producers .......................... 62 4.2.6 Industrial fair-traded chocolate ............................................................... 67 4.2.7 Whittaker’s heading towards domination................................................ 69 4.2.8 Cadbury’s fall from grace ....................................................................... 71 4.2.9 Whittaker’s monopoly ............................................................................ 71 4.3 Summary ...................................................................................................... 72 – Research findings 2 ................................................................................. 73 5.1 Introduction ................................................................................................... 73 5.2 New Zealand bean-to-bar chocolate makers: Theme discussion .................. 73 5.2.1 The monopoly of chocolate production .................................................. 73 5.2.2 The crossover of artisan and commercial bulk chocolate ....................... 75 5.2.3 The cost of chocolate............................................................................
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