AUGUST 2016 | Our 38th Year andrewharper.com

TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES © PARADORES DE TURISMO

CULTURAL TREASURES, SENSATIONAL SEAFOOD, STELLAR HOTELS COVER PHOTOGRAPH Parador de Baiona in the medieval Castelo de Monterreal, ,

Discovering Northwest Spain THIS MONTH

ne of the pleasures of travel in are government-run heritage hotels, From Vigo to Madrid Europe is that there is always a chiefly housed within converted palaces, My 550-mile journey took me to the great Onew region to explore. I have lost for­tresses and convents. Although their cathedral cities of Santiago de Compostela, count of my visits to Spain, but my recent quality is inconsistent, the chain seems Léon and Burgos, as well as the famous wine trip to the northwest still felt like a jour- to be in the midst of a revival, with rising regions of La Rioja and ...... 1-7 ney into the unknown. Coming out of the standards of food and service. World-Class Steak ...... 4 airport in Vigo after a 75-minute flight The 122-room Parador de Baiona is The Unexpected Pleasures of Galician Gin...... 4 from Madrid, the air smelled bracingly contained within the crenellated medieval Notable La Rioja Wineries ...... 5 of the pines and eucalyptus trees that walls of the Castelo de Monterreal. Our Memorable Restaurants...... 7 cover the steep green hills of Galicia, a traditionally furnished Junior Suite came  Online: Northwest Spain Touring Itinerary Celtic region that in some ways has more with caramel-colored parquet floors, a in common with Brittany or Ireland than sofa with striped damask upholstery, Caribbean Debuts it does with the rest of the country. framed paintings of flowers and a floor-to- A remarkable new resort in St. Kitts has raised To recover from the transatlantic ceiling window that offered a memorable the island’s profile significantly...... 8-10 flight, we had decided to spend a couple of view of breakers crashing on the rocky Brimstone Hill, St. Kitts...... 9 days relaxing at the Parador de Baiona, coastline. A well-lit bath provided double Sampling Island Rums ...... 10 located on a rocky promontory, 16 miles vanities on a gray granite counter and a Amanera in the Dominican Republic...... 11 southwest of Vigo and a 40-minute drive combination shower and tub. Although from the Portuguese border. (Lisbon lies we were perfectly comfortable, on a Find video and more photography of our trips at andrewharper.com/hideaway-report 290 miles to the south.) Spain’s Paradors future occasion I would book one of the

Full-service travel planning is available to subscribers at (800) 375-4685 or [email protected]. For comments and inquiries concerning the Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. View from our room, and bedroom at Parador de Baiona Entrance, and our bedroom at Parador de Santiago de Compostela

property’s three Unique rooms — 201, albariño wines. During the summer, meals (We had ordered a picnic from the hotel 242 or 323 — since they’re larger, more are also served on a spectacular terrace the night before.) distinctively decorated and come with overlooking the yacht club. In search of hydrojet tubs. variety, we drove 45 minutes north one The property’s fine restaurant evening to enjoy a superb dinner at chef Santiago de Compostela specializes in the seafood for which Pepe Solla’s Casa Solla, on the outskirts Galicia is renowned. Scallops, goose of the small city of Pontevedra. etting out on our journey, we opted barnacles (percebes in Spanish, and a Although we spent most of our stay Sto follow the coast, rather than the great local delicacy), octopus, lobster at the Parador, within easy reach of the main AP-9 highway, to the famous pilgrim- and spider crabs can all be found in the large outdoor pool and Jacuzzi, we made a age city of Santiago de Compostela. The waters around the nearby Islas Cíes. memorable outing to the Islas Cíes, three Galician shoreline is indented with long Commonly available Atlantic fish include islands off the coast reached by regular fjord-like creeks, known as rías, which hake, monkfish, turbot and sea bass, the ferry service from Baiona, which became add visual drama to a littoral that is latter cooked with razor shell clams and part of a national park in 2002. There, often reminiscent of northern Califor- turnip greens in a delicious dish known we passed a blissful day on the Praia nia. Named for Saint James, one of the as “lubina con navajas.” The cuisine is das Rodas, a crescent of soft, pale sand Apostles and the patron saint of Spain, well supported by the local Ribeiro and fronting an expanse of calm, clear sea. Santiago is a gracious and unspoiled

Islas Cíes, off the coast of Baiona

Bay of Biscay FRANCE SANTIAGO 2 LUGO DE VILLABUENA COMPOSTELA DE ALAVA ANDORRA GALICIA 3 LEON HARO 5 BURGOS VIGO ASTORGA 6 LOGRONO 4 GIRONA BAIONA 1 EZCARAY LA RIOJA ARANDA ATL ANTIC DE DUERO OCEAN 7 SARDON BARCELONA DE DUERO 1 Parador de Baiona (90) 2 Parador de Santiago de Compostela (90) CASTILLA Y LEON A Quinta da Auga (95) 3 Parador de Léon (87) MADRID 4 NH Collection Palacio de Burgos (88) Balearic Sea 5 Hotel Viura (90) SPAIN 6 Hotel Gastronómico Echaurren (89) 050100 MI WAY OF ST. JAMES MALLORCA 7 Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine (96) PILGRIMAGE ROUTE 0 50 100 KM PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER PALMA © JARCOSA/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK

2 HIDEAWAY REPORT AUGUST 2016 B ALEARIC MENORCA ISLANDS IBIZA LISBON FORMENTERA

M editerranean Sea

GRANADA

MALAGA CADIZ

S t t a r r a i t o f G i b r a l

MOROCCO ALGERIA Baby squid with squid’s ink pasta, scallops, and sitting area and bedroom of our spacious suite at A Quinta da Auga / ALL TOP PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

university city. According to legend, the as the Hostal dos Reis Católicos — which during our stay was mixed. Some staff saint’s remains were discovered during occupies a 15th-century structure origi- were friendly; others tended to be chilly the ninth century by a shepherd led by a nally built to lodge pilgrims. The hostel is and, occasionally, chiefly conspicuous by bright star. A church was built to house constructed around exquisite courtyards, their absence. them, and pilgrims soon began making with trimmed boxwood parterres and the journey to venerate his tomb. Today, trickling fountains. hough the Parador de Santiago de more than 200,000 devotees still follow We had booked one of the Unique TCompostela offers an ideal location the 500-mile-long Camino de Santiago rooms for our one-night stay. San Lucas and historic charm, travelers who prefer (Way of St. James) annually from Ronc- (No. 124) was built in 1798 by Nicolás de a peaceful country setting, plus a swim- esvalles in the Pyrenees. Neyra, the director of the hostel, to house ming pool and spa, should consider the The focus of the historic heart of his offices. As soon as the porter opened 51-room A Quinta da Auga, an intimate Santiago is the magnificent granite cathe- the heavy oak door, we liked our choice. and refined hotel that has been created dral, construction of which began in 1075. The huge room had a massive barrel- in an 18th-century former paper mill on Across from the cathedral on the northern vaulted stone ceiling, parquet floors, a the River Sar, three miles west of town. edge of the main square, the Praza do pair of tapestry-covered armchairs, black Surrounded by a verdant two-and-a-half- Obradoiro, is the 137-room Parador de wrought-iron floor lamps with parchment acre estate, this family-owned property Santiago de Compostela — also known shades, and a canopied four-poster bed. offers a welcoming atmosphere and atten- The recently renovated bath featured tive personal service. Framed family Santiago de Compostela Cathedral double vanities on a white marble counter, photographs add a distinctive touch to and a separate tub and shower. Overall, the stylish public areas, which are deco- the room was quiet, comfortable and rated with an interesting collection of authentically historical. 19th-century oil paintings. The bar and restaurant at the Para- On arrival, we flung open our bedroom dor are very popular with non-residents, shutters to admit light and fresh air, as which gives the property a lively and well as a chorus of birdsong and the cosmopolitan atmosphere. (The main soothing sound of rushing water. Our lounge, however, is for residents only, as spacious 1,075-square-foot suite was are the interior courtyards.) The food in decorated with blue-and-ivory toile de the Restaurante dos Reis, which occupies Jouy wall coverings, crystal chandeliers the vaulted former stables, is excel- and antique furniture. A well-polished lent. For 43 Euros, the menu included mahogany table with two chairs facilitated a langoustine salad, followed by veal room service dining, and in the separate entrecôte with pimientos de Padrón — tiny sitting area, we found oak floors, a large green peppers grown locally that are leather-topped desk, a leather sofa and served grilled and salted — and roasted an occasional table piled with magazines. potatoes. However, the greatest pleasure The marble bath came with a Jacuzzi tub of Galician restaurants is the spectacu- and a separate shower. lar seafood, so ordering à la carte is The hotel’s fineFiligrana Restaurant PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER invariably more interesting. The service is under the supervision of chef Federico © MANUEL VELASCO/ISTOCK AUGUST 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 3 City gate in the old walls of Burgos / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

GASTRONOMY

Superlative Steak

n the village of Jiménez de Jamuz, an hour Isouthwest of León, is one of Europe’s cult destinations for carnivores. Chef José Gordón of Bodega El Capricho serves only beef from breeds that are indigenous to the Iberian penin- sula, notably the rubia Gallega (Galician blond). He ages the meat himself, and he prefers meat from older animals because the marbling is more elegant and consistent. Served at bare wooden tables in a candlelit former wine cellar, Gordón’s fire-roasted beef is stunningly good. And there’s a superb supporting list of reasonably priced local reds, like Bierzo, to accompany it. Paraje de la Vega, Jiménez de Jamuz. López Arcay, who serves a menu of tradi- well-furnished public rooms, including a Tel. (34) 987-664-224. bodegaelcapricho.com tional Galician dishes, with appetizers library and a good restaurant. To be happy such as sea urchin stuffed with a velouté here, however, you’ll need to enlist the Carpaccio at Bodega El Capricho of sea urchin roe, or grilled octopus with help of your travel agent. This Parador San Simón cheese, followed by monkfish is comprised of the historic palace and with king prawns and fried rice, or grilled a large modern annex. You want to be in loin of Galician beef with tartiflette (a dish the palace, but, even here, rooms vary of potatoes, cheese, onions and lardons). considerably. Our Superior Double Room The hotel’s other principal amenity is its was adequate for a night, but the faux spa, which offers a range of facilities for medieval furnishings — two red velvet- hydrotherapy treatments, including a covered armchairs and a bed with a gold Dead Sea “flotarium.” damask canopy — were worn. Alas, León simply doesn’t provide a better option. León Burgos rom Santiago we headed to Lugo, 70 LOCAL SPIRITS Fmiles to the east, on the N-547. The he two-hour, 115-mile drive from road runs parallel to the Camino de Santi- TLeón to Burgos on the N-120 passes Galician Gin ago, and we often caught sight of pilgrims through lovely countryside and again striding along determinedly. Lugo is the parallels the pilgrims’ route for much of riving at Abastos 2.0, a casual restaurant only city in the world surrounded by the way. Burgos is an elegant little city, A on the edge of the main food market in completely intact Roman walls, which with pollarded plane trees lining the Santiago de Compostela, we felt in the mood for reach a height of 50 feet along a 6,950-foot promenades on either side of the Arlanzón a gin and tonic before dinner. When we ordered, circuit. The walk along the top is continu- River. A focal point is provided by another the waiter asked us if we’d like to try some ous and well worth the effort. From Lugo, magnificent Gothic cathedral, which Nordés Atlantic Galician Gin, we continued driving east for 140 miles to here contains the tomb of the legendary which, he explained, is distilled León, a city of 130,000 inhabitants, chiefly 11th-century warrior El Cid. from locally grown albariño grapes. At his suggestion, famous for its magnificent 13th-century Like many provincial cities in Spain, we tried it neat on the Gothic cathedral, with its 19,000 square Burgos has a complex and confusing rocks. To our surprise, feet of glorious medieval stained glass. traffic system, so I chose the 110-room we liked the combination On the edge of the city, the 184-room NH Collection Palacio de Burgos of botanicals that flavor Parador de León occupies a spectacular hotel in part for its ease of access and it — sea beans, cardamom, 16th-century palace that was built as the on-site parking, as well as an ideal sage, ginger, quinine, western headquarters of the Military location five-minutes’ walk from the hibiscus, tea and bay leaves Order of Saint James. Aside from its cathedral. Although primarily a business — so much that we tracked ornate Renaissance façade, which is hotel, the property was created from a down a bottle the next day beautifully lit at night, highlights of the 16th-century convent and is a successful to bring home. building are an interior cloister and quiet, mixture of new and old. The vestiges of

4 HIDEAWAY REPORT AUGUST 2016 Asparagus and mushrooms, artichokes and langoustine, details of our Junior Suite, and unique exterior of Hotel Viura / FOOD AND BEDROOM PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

OENOLOGY the old palace, including a large cloister, inspired by the hotel’s avant-garde comprise the public areas. We were very appearance were somewhat allayed by comfortable for a night in our quiet and the friendly and efficient front desk staff. Visiting La Rioja Wineries spacious Premium Room, with its dark Our third floor Junior Suite turned out to parquet floor, contemporary furniture be attractive and well-equipped, and came any of the great wineries of the La Rioja and windows overlooking a park along with dove-gray walls, a spacious living Mregion welcome visitors. (Note: some require the river. Adjacent to a spacious dressing area with an oak desk, a comfortable bed advance reservations, often via their websites, for room, a travertine-paneled bath came with made up with high-quality cotton sheets, tours and tastings.) Here are my favorites: a combination tub and shower; amenities a plump chaise longue and two floor-to- Compañía Vinícola del Norte del España included an espresso machine. During ceiling windows. The bath contained a This well-respected wine producer has four our brief stay, the staff were charming, separate tub and a shower. Outside, our different wineries: Imperial, Viña Real, CVNE and the breakfast buffet was excellent. private terrace afforded views over the and Contino. All of them receive visitors, but the pretty village. striking underground modern winery by French In addition to pleasing accommoda- architect Philippe Mazières at Viña Real is La Rioja tions, the Viura has a superb restaurant particularly worth visiting. The estate offers serving Riojan and Basque cuisine. There catered picnics at a modern pavilion in their ixty miles to the east, the charming we dined on white asparagus in foie gras afterward. cvne.com town of Haro contains many of the sauce, baby artichokes with wild mush- S López de Heredia Viña Tondonia great bodegas of the La Rioja wine region. rooms, and hake with black cauliflower One of the most distinguished wine producers After several winery visits in Haro, and risotto, all accompanied by a magnificent in La Rioja, this winery combines a variety of a fascinating afternoon at the Vivanco 2010 Luis Cañas Reserva. The property beautiful art nouveau buildings, plus a striking Museum of Wine Culture, we arrived at also offers a wine bar and a small spa. new visitor center by the late architect Zada the nearby village of Villabuena de Alava. Hadid. Bodegas López de Heredia is one of It is on the northern slopes of the the few family-run bodegas regulated by the Valley and is home to several outstanding Ezcaray Denominación de Origen Calificada Rioja, or winemakers, notably Luis Cañas. DOC (Appellation). lopezdeheredia.com In the past two decades, La Rioja has ithin the past 15 years, Spain has Vivanco Museum of Wine Culture seen the debuts of dazzling new winery Wemerged as a major gastronomic The single best wine experience in La buildings and hotels, designed by high- destination, which is why we headed to Rioja is the fascinating wine museum on the profile architects. The best known of the pretty resort town of Ezcaray the estate of the Dinastía Vivanco winery in Briones. these is Frank Gehry’s Hotel Marqués next day. Situated 40 miles to the south, Here, you learn that wine production began de Riscal, which I have recommended for Ezcaray has recently become a gourmet in La Rioja when Spain was part of the Roman some years. On this occasion, however, mecca due to the spectacular talent of chef Empire and thrived during the Middle Ages when I decided to try someplace different. Francisco Paniego. His Michelin two-star monasteries were established along the Way of The 33-room Hotel Viura was created restaurant, El Portal, is housed within St. James pilgrimage route. The commentary in by architect-owners Joseba and Xabier the family-owned Hotel Gastronómico the museum doesn’t say as much, but doubtless devotees were glad to have a glass or two after Aramburu and has a bold, modern design Echaurren hotel, which also contains walking for hours on end in the heat. of concrete cubes clumped together in the Echaurren Tradición restaurant, for vivancoculturadevino.es fanciful disarray. Initial apprehensions sturdy traditional Riojan cooking, and a

AUGUST 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 5 Landscape, bath and interior of our room, and Refectorio restaurant at Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine / ROOM PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

tapas bar. (In addition, Bistrot Comilón, our accommodations were comfortable as more experimental entrées such as with a lighter, more modern menu, is and well-designed, with oak parquet langoustines accompanied by the meat of located nearby.) floors, oak beds and electrically operated a brined and deboned pig’s ear and baby Now managed by a fifth generation, window shades. leeks. (This may sound alarming, but it the 27-room hotel has recently been Our meal at El Portal, however, proved was delicious.) The following lunchtime, redecorated in a streamlined contem- to be wholly exceptional and included we tried the traditional restaurant, where porary style inspired by both classic traditional and earthy dishes like red the menu features the superb recipes of Scandinavian design and Japanese beans with chorizo, blood sausage, Marisa Sánchez, Paniego’s mother, who ryokans. Though not especially luxurious, crackling and collard greens, as well won an award as the best chef in Spain in 1987. This very different but no less HOTELS AT A GLANCE delicious meal began with croquetas (deep-fried beignets filled with ham and Parador de Baiona A90 chicken in a cream sauce), followed by LIKE Historic charm; spectacular setting with magnificent views of the sea. DISLIKE Inattentive front desk an earthy sopa de cocido (soup of meat staff. GOOD TO KNOW Baiona has an American connection; it was here that the Pinta arrived to announce the discovery of the New World in 1493; a replica of the ship is on display in the town’s harbor. Superior Double Room, and beans), and roasted suckling lamb $290; Junior Suite, $320. Monterreal s/n, 36300 Baiona Pontevedra. Tel. (34) 986-355-000. parador.es and meatballs with truffles and potatoes. This hearty fare was quite different from Parador de Santiago de Compostela A90 Panciego’s lyrical cuisine at El Portal, but LIKE Ideal location; the majestic architecture of the 13th-century palace. DISLIKE Inconsistent service. GOOD TO equally outstanding. KNOW This is one of the most popular hotels in Spain, so reservations should be made far in advance. Superior Room, $380; Junior Suite, $450. Praza do Obradoiro 1, 15705 Santiago de Compostela. Tel. (34) 981-582-200. parador.es

A Quinta da Auga A95 Ribera del Duero LIKE The sound of rushing water in our beautifully decorated and extremely comfortable room, suite 401. DISLIKE The supplementary charges for both the pool and sauna; the poorly trained staff in the dining room. GOOD rom Ezcaray, it was a two-and-a- TO KNOW Casa Barqueiro in nearby Negreira is a simple country inn specializing in delicious roasted meats, including Galicia’s famous beef (Avenida de Santiago 13, Negreira, Tel. [34] 981-818-234). Classic Room, $200; Suite, $775. Fhalf-hour drive south to the little Paseo da Amaia 23b, 15706 Santiago de Compostela. Tel. (34) 981-534-636. aquintadaauga.com town of in the Ribera del Duero, another of Spain’s great Hotel Viura A90 wine regions. Just down the road from LIKE Comfortable accommodations, excellent wine bar and outstanding restaurant. DISLIKE The occasionally the famous Vega Sicilia , the standoffish staff. GOOD TO KNOW This hotel makes a perfect base from which to explore La Rioja wineries. Deluxe Room, $230; Suite, $310. Calle s/n, 01307 Villabuena de Álava. Tel.(34) 945-609-000. hotelviura.com magnificent 1,730-acre Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine estate has become the talk of Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine A96 Spain since it opened after a multimillion LIKE Supremely comfortable rooms and spectacular wines in a magnificently restored medieval monastery. dollar renovation in 2012. Not only is the DISLIKE Exasperating pre-arrival guest information forms, plus constant emails insisting on the need to make reser- vineyard producing some spectacular vations in advance for all hotel services. GOOD TO KNOW This region is sweltering during July and August and is best visited in May-June or September-October. Classic Room, $475; Superior Room, $540. Sardon de Duero, 47340 Valladolid. wines, but the 30-room hotel, created Tel. (34) 983-680-368. ledomaine.es from a former 12th-century Cistercian monastery, is wholly exceptional. preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel that will be added to The Andrew Harper Collection. A Visit andrewharper.com for information on these and Hotel Marqués de Riscal (92). The following were not up to the The austerity of the original building required standard: Parador de León (87), NH Collection Palacio de Burgos (88) and Hotel Gastronómico Echaurren (89). was respected rather than overwhelmed

6 HIDEAWAY REPORT AUGUST 2016 Recommended Restaurants

In additon to exceptional cuisine at El Portal in the Hotel Gastronómico Echaurren in Ezcaray, we had memorable meals at the following:

Casa Marcelo Just down the street from the Parador, this small, casual restaurant just might be the best place for lunch in Santiago de Compostela. It serves an ever-changing menu of Spanish- and Asian-inspired small plates, like beef tartare, gyozas, razor shell clams and sea urchins, all with imaginative garnishes. Rúa Hortas 1. Tel. (34) 981-558-580. casamarcelo.net

Casa Solla Chef Pepe Solla has transformed his family’s roadside auberge in a suburb of Pontevedra into one of the foremost destination restaurants in Spain, and an especially magical place for seafood lovers. Expect dishes like potato soup with crabmeat, and lobster with slow-cooked chicken and black garlic. Avenida de during the renovation, and its style Sineiro 7, San Salvador de Poio. Tel. (34) 986-872-884. restaurantesolla.com remains authentic and low key. The COBO Vintage architects had the sense to embrace the Young chef Miguel Cobo is the talk of Burgos with his stylish new restaurant, where essential rusticity of the property with its he serves modern riffs on traditional Spanish dishes, as well as his own succulent beamed ceilings and limestone floors. The inventions. Look for his red shrimp with white beans and salmon tartare, and public spaces, including the renovated veal with capers. Calle La Merced 19, Burgos. Tel. (34) 947-027-581. cobovintage.es chapel, are spare, while the character of the rooms derives from the exquisitely Molino de Palacios simple teak furniture, the wide-planked Just on the outskirts of Peñafiel, in an old mill by a rushing stream, this rustic oak floors and the beautifully made oak inn serves hearty, old-fashioned Spanish country cooking, including dishes like shutters in the tall windows that overlook sautéed wild mushrooms, rabbit with rice, and roasted suckling pig. Avenida de the surrounding vineyards. Well-equipped la Constitución 16, Peñafiel. Tel. (34) 646-203-770. molinodepalacios.com baths come with oversized soaking tubs and separate showers. Taberna Abastos 2.0 The hotel features two excellent Run by a friendly young team who are proud of Galicia’s superb produce, this restaurants, the Vinoteca, a casual wine- market-driven restaurant on the edge of Santiago’s old food halls, serves beauti- oriented bistro, and the Michelin-starred fully made dishes like octopus with spinach, sautéed clams and potatoes. Rúa das Refectorio, where chef Marc Segarra, Ameas, Praza de Abastos, Casetas 13-18, Santiago de Compostela. Tel. (34) 654-015- who trained at the renowned Mugaritz 937. abastoscompostela.com restaurant in San Sebastián, produces Top row: Ham on oil bread, and crabmeat atop potato-sea urchin soup at Casa Solla; Bottom row: Red beans intriguing, if slightly over-elaborate, with chorizo, and langoustine and pig’s ear at El Portal / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER tasting menus. Guided tours of the winery are offered. Amenities include an outdoor pool, plus a spectacular 10,000-square- foot spa featuring vinotherapy treatments using grape extracts. Horseback riding and golf are available. The estate provides a perfect base from which to discover the Ribera del Duero, as well as the atmospheric old city of Valladolid, where the National Sculpture Museum is housed within the 16th-century Colegio de San Grego- rio. Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine is a wonderful property and ideal for either a timeout during a tour of northwest Spain or a weekend away from Madrid. The Spanish capital lies an easy 120-mile drive to the south. H

AUGUST 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 7 The Great House, cottages and pool at Belle Mont Farm

A ONE-OF-A-KIND RESORT, PLUS A FINE TRADITIONAL INN The 400 acres of Kittitian Hill encom- pass the Belle Mont Farm resort, with 84 guest cottages and seven four-bedroom Newly Fashionable St. Kitts houses for families; residential units for sale; a low-key village center with shops t. Kitts has long been a sleepy dormant volcano, 3,792-foot Mount and restaurants; and the farm itself, which Caribbean island, with few hotels Liamuiga, which long ago was responsible supplies the majority of the produce used Sand resorts of note, aside from for the black-sand beaches; a smaller in the various restaurants. a couple of old-established plantation peninsula to the southeast of the capital, Arriving in the area, we proceeded up house inns, the best-known of which, Basseterre, has a number of white-sand a rutted dirt road. Our driver explained Rawlins Plantation, burned down in beaches, and it is here that Park Hyatt that construction continues on the resi- May 2015. Fine beaches are also scarce. has chosen to build. You might reasonably dential and shopping projects, so heavy And yet, St. Kitts is rapidly emerging suppose that the decision to site Belle Mont equipment requires constant access. I as the Caribbean destination of the Farm on the verdant slope of the volcano, feared that the activity would detract from moment. The remarkable Kittitian Hill away from the attractive beaches, would our stay, but fortunately, this proved not to development, the centerpiece of which prove misguided at best. But the dream of be the case. After a while, the road became is the Belle Mont Farm resort, opened in Trinidadian entrepreneur Val Kempadoo paved, and we entered a lush world of 2015, and Park Hyatt’s first Caribbean was to meld concepts of sustainability and trees and flowering plants, its tranquility property is scheduled to debut at the eco-friendliness with high-end tourism. interrupted only by birdsong or the call end of this year. These terms do not always cohabit with of a vervet monkey. We pulled up to a tall St. Kitts is divided into two distinct ease, but our recent experience suggests wooden pavilion called The Potting Shed, areas: The north is dominated by a he has made an impressive start. with an appropriate display of traditional

Bedroom, outdoor bath and terrace of our cottage at Belle Mont Farm; plus our table at Arthur’s, part of the newly acquired Golden Lemon beach property / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

8 HIDEAWAY REPORT AUGUST 2016 farm implements, and after a brief greet- by a screen of vegetation. Some may fascinating nursery tour, during which ing, switched to a golf cart. This took us find this off-putting, but I quite enjoyed you learn about the fruits, vegetables to the resort’s central public area, The the arrangement, and we were never and other plants nurtured for both the Great House, whose rugged stone walls troubled by insects. Our infinity-edge kitchen and for landscaping. Golfers came from a nearby quarry, in keeping pool offered striking views of St. Kitts and will no doubt enjoy the 18-hole, par-71 with the resort’s efforts to locally source the islands beyond. Given the relatively course designed by Ian Woosnam that as many of the construction materials high elevation, the water was quite cold, weaves its way through the landscape. as possible. Its upper level incorporated but I understand that heaters are being And a spa, Mango Walk, set on the highest the distinctive conical tower of a replica installed. Even the thought of the much point of the property, offers a full range sugar mill, which served as the bar, as larger pool at The Great House could not of “indigenous” therapies using natural well as the centerpiece restaurant, The pry us away from our private oasis. products from the farm. There will be a Kitchen. One level below, we could see the The Kitchen, the main restaurant beach component to Belle Mont Farm in spectacular infinity pool backdropped in The Great House, was designed by the future, as Kittitian Hill has acquired by the farm, the golf course and the sea. Bangkok-based Bill Bensley, one of the the legendary Golden Lemon, a property Heading uphill from check-in, we caught world’s leading resort architects, who once owned by House & Garden editor tantalizing glimpses of the cottages, all has worked for Park Hyatt and Four Arthur Leaman, which is now undergo- done with clapboard siding and shingle Seasons, among others. At night, the ing renovation. However, the sands there roofs. These were spaced well apart and, theatrical lighting that highlights the are black. apparently, great efforts were made to exterior creates a magical atmosphere. Many of the resort staff, all of whom ensure that they fit into the landscape And in the restaurant itself, Bensley has are from St. Kitts, have never worked with as little disruption as possible. Just fashioned an inviting space with high in a hotel or restaurant before, but all two trees were taken down in the process. ceilings, open walls and a pleasing mix proved to be friendly, well-trained and I instantly liked our expansive front of colors and textures. Chef Christophe porch with its two hanging swing seats. Letard works wonders with the wealth of Inside, the room was not particularly farm produce at his disposal, as well as large, but the high peaked ceiling and other locally sourced ingredients. I found the glass doors leading out to a deck and the dishes to be imaginative, attractive private pool made our accommodations and delicious. A perfect example was his seem simultaneously intimate and grand. land crab ravioli with cashews, the meat The dark wood floors and Colonial-style coming from common crustaceans and furniture were complemented by white the “ravioli” fashioned from dasheen, a walls, blue-gray wood trim and bright local vegetable. One evening, we opted

blue and cream fabrics. Furnishings for the Farm Table dinner, a multicourse WIREPEC/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK © also included a large desk and a stocked feast that included superb beef tenderloin MILITARY HISTORY fridge. There was no television, but at the with a tangy variation on chimichurri push of a button, a screen descended, and sauce. At breakfast, I greatly enjoyed a with the provided iPad and a connection buffet of traditional Caribbean dishes, Fortress Panorama to Netflix, it was possible to have a movie and forswearing my usual eggs, I tucked night right in the room — with the option into spinach cakes, plantains with crisped ot far from Belle Mont Farm, Brimstone of fresh popcorn delivered to the door. pineapple, and sautéed chicken and fish. NHill Fortress is considered an important The outdoor bath came with a shower, Activities at the resort include orga- example of military engineering and one of the freestanding tub and separate vanities, nized walks. And those interested in best-preserved fortifications in the Americas. all completely outdoors but sheltered gardening will not want to miss the The central structure, known as Fort George, or the Citadel, is the earliest surviving example of a type of military construction called the “polygonal system.” Made from local basalt, the fortress dates to 1690, when the British drove the French from the island and set up cannon to prevent their return. In its heyday, Brimstone Hill was known as “the Gibraltar of the West Indies.” In 1985, Brimstone Hill became a national park. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. The views from the battlements are exceptional — some of the best in the Caribbean — and on a clear day, you will have no trouble spotting St. Barths, St. Martin and Anguilla to the north; Saba and St. Eustatius to the northwest; and Montserrat and Nevis to the southeast.

AUGUST 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 9 Manicured grounds, and bedroom and terrace of our Supreme Room at Ottley’s Plantation Inn / BEDROOM AND TERRACE PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

DISTILLERIES consistently helpful. This ambitious constant breeze. The spacious tiled bath project is one-of-a-kind. If you feel like a was equipped with a Jacuzzi tub and sepa- Tasting Island Rums change from the more conventional luxury rate shower. And a deck with an adjacent Caribbean resorts, I cannot recommend patio came with a private plunge pool. s I travel throughout the Caribbean, I always it highly enough. Elsewhere, the attractive 65-foot A search for local rums. Although the basic spring-fed main pool has ample patio principles of distillation remain unchanged, each rom Belle Mont Farm, we visited space and extends into the plantation’s island creates spirits with a distinctive style. F what is now the leading traditional old sugar factory, where you can swim in property on St. Kitts: Ottley’s Plantation the shade if you wish. The sugar factory ST. KITTS The market here is Inn. A lovely allée of royal palms brought also houses the bar, a casual venue for dominated by Brinley, a family business started in 1986. A new us to a dramatic 18th-century plantation breakfast and lunch, and the Royal Palm generation took charge in 2002 house, painted a cheerful yellow with restaurant. With a latticed ceiling and and decided to make flavored rums. crisp white trim, where broad verandas twinkling lights, the latter creates a This line, known as Brinley Gold overlook the entire 35-acre estate. genuinely romantic ambiance that many Shipwreck rum, includes At check-in, we met with Karen Keusch, places aspire to but few attain. The food iterations of the spirit that whose American family has owned and was excellent, and I particularly enjoyed a are imbued with flavors of run the property since 1990. She quickly creamy, richly flavored pumpkin soup — spice, vanilla, coffee, mango conveyed her deep attachment to the an island staple — and a perfectly cooked and coconut. In my view, the place, an affection that we felt from the lobster. In addition to the pool, Ottley’s standouts are the spiced rum, entire staff throughout our stay. Twenty- has an illuminated tennis court and a which has been aged for four three lodgings of varying configurations full spa. A daily shuttle is provided for years in used American whiskey are housed within the Great House and in those who want to head to the southern and bourbon barrels, and the mango. I had not expected the smaller cottages. (The Grand Villa can sleep part of the island to relax on one of the fruit and the rum to harmonize as up to nine.) We loved our Supreme Room, white-sand beaches. well as they did. For a refreshing which was done in a country house style, Ottley’s is not a luxury resort, but drink on a hot day, I mix the mango rum with a with dark mahogany colonial furniture. The rather a charming hideaway with lovely splash or two of tonic and a slice of lime. shuttered windows had wire screens — a rooms and satisfying food, which offers rarity outside the U.S. — and admitted a serenity and genuine hospitality. H DOMINICAN REPUBLIC These rums are known for their smoothness (which is not HOTELS AT A GLANCE necessarily a characteristic prized on other islands). The Brugal XV Ron Reserva Exclusiva A95 is distilled from molasses, aged in American Belle Mont Farm white-oak barrels and finally blended with rums LIKE Every cottage receives a small crate of fresh fruit right from the farm that is replenished daily. DISLIKE The bar should be better stocked. We craved a gin and tonic one night and it was unavailable. GOOD TO KNOW Cooking from three to eight years old. The result is a clear classes can be arranged with the chef. Guesthouse with Pool, $600; Villa, $2,930; Farmhouse, $4,650. Kittitian amber spirit with a nose that has notes of oak, Hill, Basseterre, St. Kitts. Tel. (869) 465-7388. bellemontfarm.com honey, butterscotch and a hint of cinnamon. On the palate, I enjoy the butterscotch character, Ottley’s Plantation Inn A91 along with the presence of spicy orange. This LIKE The tranquil atmosphere and the exceptionally warm welcome. DISLIKE The only way to access the is a rum I only drink neat, like a single malt. window in our bath was to step into the tub. GOOD TO KNOW Marty Lowell, who oversees the landscaping, Another Dominican rum of note is the Bermudez gives delightful garden tours. Supreme Pool, $410; Royal Suite Cottage, $660. Ottley’s Village, St. Kitts. Tel. (869) 1852 Aniversario. A dark amber in color, it is 465-7234. ottleys.com

aged in oak casks for 12 years, which gives it a preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel that will be added toThe Andrew Harper Collection. pronounced smoothness and wonderful depth. A Visit andrewharper.com for more information on these and all of our recommendations in the Caribbean.

10 HIDEAWAY REPORT AUGUST 2016 a bowl of fish soup was lacking in both seafood and flavor. And at lunch on the beach, I ordered the fish burger and was presented with a piece of overcooked fish on a bun, with no accompaniments. Other new Aman resorts have suffered from lackluster cuisine at the outset, and the problem has been remedied. I suspect that the same will be true at Amanera. Aside from the beach and the infinity pool, the principal activity at Amanera is provided by the Playa Grande Golf Course. One of the great tracks of the Caribbean, it was originally designed by Robert Trent Jones Sr., whose son, Public areas overlooking Playa Grande / COURTESY AMAN/© SIMON LEWIS STUDIO Rees Jones, has recently undertaken a complete renovation. The storied 7,085- WORLD-CLASS GOLF AND A MAGNIFICENT BEACH yard, 18-hole course has no fewer than ten seaside holes, the most of any course A New Aman in the Dominican Republic in the Western hemisphere. Non-golfers can enjoy guided nature manera, the 29th Aman resort, is furniture and a bright area rug. Sliding hikes through the rain forest, mountain set atop a cliff in a remote part of wooden panels separated the living room biking, tennis and deep-sea fishing. There Athe Dominican Republic, in keep- from the equally large bedroom. The is also a lavish spa with a wide range of ing with the company’s long-established opulent bath came with a large glassed- treatments. Those feeling more cere- preference for pristine locations. The off garden. bral may wish to pass a few hours in the chosen site is a superb tract of land that Having settled in, we succumbed library, tucked away off the main lounge encompasses 2,170 acres of untouched to the lure of the beach. There, chaises in its own glass cube, where the selection rain forest bordering Playa Grande, longues and umbrellas dotted the mile- of books is one of the best curated I’ve one of the most spectacular beaches in long arc of golden sand. An attendant was seen at a resort. the Caribbean. Aman also acquired a on hand to help with towels, drinks and Amanera is a spectacular property, legendary Robert Trent Jones golf course sports equipment, and an open beach bar not just for its dramatic situating between immediately adjacent to the property. proved a fine spot for lunch. the rain forest and the sea, but for the way The resort’s main building, the Casa As evening approached, we strolled an exceptional design has been integrated Grande, is a large two-story structure, back to the Casa Grande, where the upper- into this singular location. H much of it glass, with open walkways, level lounge and bar provide a perfect Our spacious Casita at Amanera / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER atriums, terraces and cantilevered water place for an end-of-the-day drink with features that combine to give it a subtle a stunning view of the sea. Downstairs, complexity. It reminded me of the work of the restaurant is a stylish place with both Edward Durell Stone, who designed soaring ceilings, subtle lighting and a the Kennedy Center in Washington, D.C., delightful staff (who embodied the flaw- and Philip Johnson, who created the less service we experienced throughout iconic Glass House in Connecticut. The our stay). Here, however, we encountered architect was London-based John Heah the resort’s only deficiency — the food — (who is currently at work on another Aman which for a property of this caliber (and resort on the Greek island of Kea). expense) proved uninspiring. A salad Rising from the beach up a hill into included rubbery burrata and tomatoes the rain forest, the 25 individual Casi- that were tough and flavor-free, while tas (13 with pools) form an array that resembles a large amphitheater. From HOTEL AT A GLANCE the outside, it is hard to appreciate just Amanera A93 how large they are. On entering, we were LIKE The seamless integration of the resort buildings and the natural environment. DISLIKE Some of the Casitas taken aback by the exceptionally generous are a walk of up to 10 minutes from the Casa Grande; however, golf carts are on call. GOOD TO KNOW Pick-up at interior, augmented by a spacious terrace. the airport includes a welcome service that whisks you through all of the government formalities. Casita, $1,850; Floor-to-ceiling glass walls provided Pool Casita, $2,620. Auto. 5 Carretera Rio San Juan, Cabrera, Dominican Republic. Tel. (809) 589-2888. aman.com unobstructed ocean views. The living A preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel that will be added toThe Andrew Harper Collection. room featured midcentury modern-style Visit andrewharper.com for more on this and three additional recommendations in the Dominican Republic.

AUGUST 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 11 LAST LOOK LAST WORD Go With the Flow

ne of the most enjoyable trips that I have taken Oin recent years was a cruise aboard the Aqua Mekong riverboat, on a voyage between Vietnam and Cambodia. It was idyllic to sit in comfort watching the rural life of Southeast Asia smoothly unfold. For reasons that are not entirely clear to me, the popularity of river cruises seems to be increasing exponentially. Trips along the Danube, the Rhine and the Nile, have long been classic travel experiences. But rivers such as the Garonne, Dordogne, Rhône and Saône now provide attractive alternatives, while farther afield, riverboats proliferate on the Ayeyarwady River in Myanmar, and there is even a A brass scallop shell set in a León sidewalk marks the Way of St. James pilgrimage route / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER luxury riverboat, the Zambezi Queen, on the Chobe River in Botswana. Riverboats tend to be more intimate than regular seagoing cruise ships — those New and Noteworthy operated by the outstanding Uniworld typically have around 80 staterooms — so their atmosphere By Rail Through the Andes is more akin to that of a boutique hotel. On a river cruise, there is always something to look at, and Belmond, a company already famous for trains such as the Venice Simplon-Orient- despite traveling in a privileged cocoon, you do feel Express, plans to debut a new journey through the Peruvian Andes in May 2017. The somehow part of the landscape as it scrolls grace- Belmond Andean Explorer will run from Cusco to Puno on Lake Titicaca (elevation fully past. For whatever combination of reasons, 12,500 feet), and from there to the grand colonial city of Arequipa, a trip of three days riverboats are clearly in accord with the zeitgeist. It and two nights. Cabins will each have an en suite bath and shower. An Observation was therefore with particular interest that I learned Car with a bar and outdoor deck will provide a comfortable environment from which of the construction of a third Aqua vessel to sail on to enjoy the stupendous scenery, while two dining cars will offer locally sourced the Peruvian Amazon, which is scheduled to launch seasonal dishes created by chefs from the Belmond Hotel Monasterio in Cusco. in late 2017. Like the Mekong, the new boat will have just 20 suites and will provide a spa and pool, as well Six Senses Comes to the South Pacific as gourmet cuisine. I intend to report on the new Aqua vessel shortly after its maiden voyage into Six Senses enjoys a deserved reputation for its refined resorts and spas. In 2017, a the pristine Pacaya Samiria National Reserve. In new beach property will debut on Malolo Island in the Fiji archipelago, a 10-minute the meanwhile, however, I have decided to indulge flight by light aircraft from Nadi International Airport.Six Senses Fiji will feature myself with a spring cruise along Portugal’s 26 Pool Villas set along a 2,000-foot stretch of white sand. The property will offer gloriously scenic Douro River. facilities for diving and sailing (including a full-service marina for private yachts). Its signature spa will provide personalized “Integrated Wellness” programs. These will include combinations of treatments and exercise regimens, plus yoga and meditation classes. I have recently updated two of my personal travel guides, United States & Canada and Australia, An Intimate New Zambezi Valley Camp New Zealand & South Pacific, which feature my hotel Despite the political and economic chaos in Zimbabwe, some of southern Africa’s recommendations, regional notebooks, touring leading safari companies continue to invest there. Presumably, they are awaiting better maps and restaurants. The books are available times in a post-Mugabe future. The latest place that will one day be of considerable at andrewharper.com/store/harper-collection. They are also mailed bimonthly to Premier interest to Hideaway Report readers is Little Ruckomechi, located in the Zambezi subscribers. To upgrade your subscription, email Valley’s Mana Pools National Park, which opened on July 1. Three tented suites, [email protected]. built on wooden decks, are complemented by a dining room, living room and plunge pool. The camp will be ideal for exclusive use by a family or a small group of friends.

Free of hotel advertising since its inception in June 1979, Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report® is a private publication for sophisticated travelers. The selection of hotels and restaurants for inclusion is made on a completely independent basis, with Andrew Harper, LLC paying full rate for all meals, lodging and related travel expenses. Our commitment to editorial independence is unwavering.

The Hideaway Report (ISSN 0884-7622) is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 1601 Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX 78701. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. Copyright 2016 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher. Editor-in-Chief Andrew Harper Art Director Kristina Mitchell Research Editor Adrienne Jany Photo Editor Kelly Zhu