SUMMER 2018 ENCORE Six Dames Cook up a Second Brilliant Career

ALSO INSIDE ... GRANDE DAME NOMINEES | WENTE CELEBRATES 135 YEARS | YUCATÁN FLAVORS OF MEXICO On the cover: Katie Button (North Carolina) cooks at Cúrate. Photos left, from top: Katie, Araceli Ramos (Mexico); Belinda Smith-Sullivan (Charleston); Barbara Hanley (Boston); Joan Coukos (New York); Melanie Reeve (London). Right: In Mexico: Maria Gomez- Laurens, Hayley Matson- Mathes. Dame Eleonora García; Miriam Peraza—lead- er of Las Mujeres Mayas; Mexico President Rocio Mejia. Photos: Oscar Velazquez. Flowers: Susan Slack.

FROM THE EDITOR Tans Fade, but Memories SUMMER 2 O18 Will Endure!

“This world is but a canvas IN THIS ISSUE to our imagination” Henry David Thoreau FEATURES Summer is in full swing! It brings plea- sures likes firefly nights, boiled peanuts, fresh peach ice cream, fireworks, beach 4 Encore: Six Dames Cook up music, and barbecue in the Palmetto State a Second Brilliant Career where I live! It also brings record heatwaves to our humid, sub- tropical climate! I hope your summer is cooler than mine! 9 Seattle Conference Weather aside, it’s been a productive and memorable year for Dames. President Hayley Matson-Mathes has been visiting Meet the 2018 LDEI Chapters to better develop interpersonal communica- 10 tions between them and the Board (page 18). Dames enjoyed Grande Dame Nominees the finest educational tours of their genre when many attended the Flavors of Mexico in the Yucatán (page 13), and the Edible 13 The Yucatán Flavors of Mexico London, Scotland, and Cotswolds adventures (fall Quarterly). Our newest Grande Dame will soon be announced from the 14 Wente Vineyards Celebrates group of eight remarkable women profiled on page 10. Marga- ret Happel Perry spearheaded the first-rate feature on page 4, 135 Years which features six Dames who left established jobs for second careers. It’s never too late to change career paths even if it means 16 Tour de Farm taking certain risks. Consider our own Julia Child who went from a wartime job in secret intelligence to become a renowned 18 Wine, Conversation, and Memories cookbook author-celebrity chef. For the six Dames we inter- with Hayley Matson-Mathes viewed, the rewards are well worth the hard work and challenges they had to tackle. This year is the 135th anniversary of LDEI’s valued partner 20 Fundraising Wente Vineyards. Read their story on page 14, and let’s help them celebrate! DEPARTMENTS Watch your mailboxes—Co-Chair Cynthia Nims says the Seattle Conference brochure will arrive soon. On page 9, she Chapter Programs mentions the exciting, optional tour opportunities that will take 22 place before and after Conference. The autumn promises to be an exciting, busy time. 26 Member Milestones Until then, I hope summer stretches before you like a blank canvas to be painted with bold, colorful brushstrokes of pleasur- 28 Leadership in Action able activities. May it be “a joy ride in a paint-box,” as Winston Churchill once described his blissful approach to creating art. 31 Submission Guidelines —Susan Fuller Slack, Editor, Summer Quarterly

2 Les Dames d’Escoffier International PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE 2018 LDEI BOARD OF DIRECTORS The mission of the LDEI Board is to “Let’s All Travel Together Like Water foster the growth and success of the organization by supporting the Flowing in One Direction” development of new and existing chapters and by implementing program initiatives. Surfing for the first time was one of the more ex- It provides leadership, guidance, citing experiences of my life. Relying on Diamond education, connectivity, and effective Head as my guidepost helped steady my balance communication among LDEI members. and provided a much-needed boost of confidence. President After catching a particularly good wave, I thought HAYLEY MATSON-MATHES Owner/Culinary Consultant of Duke Kahanamoku’s saying, The best surfer 2333 Kapiolani Boulevard #3516 out there is the one having the most fun. Duke, a Honolulu, HI 96826 legendary Native Hawaiian Olympic swimmer, (808) 941-9088 | [email protected] helped make surfing the popular sport that it is First Vice President today. Leaving your comfort zone creates learning ANN STRATTE Lobster and Lox LLC experiences and surfing is no exception. I learn 100 Severn Avenue, #506 a great deal while out on the water just as I am Annapolis, MD 21403-2622 learning a great deal from all of you. (410) 903-2682 | [email protected] Feeling the power and beauty of the ocean Second Vice President beneath my surfboard reminded me of the BEV SHAFFER globe and to learn. Our international Chapters Owner/COOK.WRITE.TRAVEL.REPEAT. essential role water plays in human lives. The Culinary Consultant | Recipe Development Hawaiian expression, Let’s all travel together like bring so much to our shared table. R&D | Food & Travel Writer water flowing in one direction, captures how an New chapter development is under the purview 3433 Blake Road of Secretary Deborah Mintcheff. She is actively Seville, OH 44273 organization, working in harmony, can achieve (330) 441-2706 enduring results. When catching a wave, it working with three potential new chapters: Savan- [email protected] feels good to know you are headed in the right nah-Coastal Georgia, Toronto, and Paris. Deborah Third Vice President direction (towards shore!). I am grateful for reports they are on target to meet the June 30 KATHY GOLD President/Executive Chef the Board’s dedicated service and collaborative deadline for chapter formation submission. It is exciting to consider expanding our table. The Cooking Company/ spirit, never losing sight of our guideposts. In The Kitchen Cooking School Our LDEI Board Purpose Statement and Pri- Our LDEI calabash (a Hawaiian word for bowl) 10 Mechanic Street is overflowing with programming and outreach: Haddonfield, NJ 08033 orities guide our decision making. (609) 206-4511 | [email protected] • Serve as a Chapter Resource • The Brock Circle Oversight Committee, un- der the direction of Stacy Zeigler with support Secretary • Enhance Communication and Collaboration DEBORAH MINTCHEFF • Elevate LDEI Brand Visibility from Sharon Olson, Ann Stratte, Patricia Cookbook Editor/Writer/Certified Life Coach • Strengthen Strategic Partnerships Erd, and myself, dreamed about developing 129 East 69th Street New York, NY 10021-5041 • Develop Planned Giving Program a Brock Circle virtual leadership forum. Stay tuned, plans are underway. I invite you to join (202) 879-0383 | [email protected] Elevating LDEI Brand Visibility, as one ex- Treasurer ample, was addressed by the LDEI Board under the Brock Circle today! SHARON OLSON the direction of Board Members Sharon Olson • The M.F.K. Fisher entries increased by 25 per- Culinary Visions Panel and Bev Shaffer. They created an LDEI 2018 cent this year reaching 93 entries—the highest 445 W. Erie Street, Suite 107 number of entries since 2014. Mahalo to every- Chicago, IL 60654 trend survey focusing on international food, (312) 280-4573 | [email protected] one who encouraged participation. restaurant, retail, catering, health, and lifestyle Chapter Board Liaisons trends. The internal survey provided an oppor- • Great team effort by the LDEI Legacy Awards JULIE CHERNOFF tunity for Dames to share their knowledge and Committee, and all Dames who lent support, Dining Editor, Make it Better Media for surpassing last year’s entries with a 277 200 Burnham Place expertise beyond our organization. Evanston, IL 60202 A few survey morsels from the 144 Dames who percent increase to 86 candidates—a superb, (847) 902-6741 | [email protected] participated in the survey: organization-wide effort. BETH VLASICH PAV • Dames identified the Mediterranean Sea I have been amazed and inspired by the ten vi- Owner/Chef, Cooking by Design, LLC region, the Middle East, and Latin America to brant chapters I have visited thus far (the LDEI 5606 Stage Stop Circle Board has visited seven additional chapters) and Austin, TX 78738 have the most influence on the American food (512) 431-8751 | [email protected] I am eagerly scheduling more visits. Mahalo for scene in the coming year. Looking ahead two DREW FAULKNER to three years, East Africa, the Balkans, and the your aloha! Culinary Instructor Maghreb region present great potential. It takes a drop of inspiration to start a river of 7407 Honeywell Lane dreams. This beautiful Hawaiian expression ap- Bethesda, MD 20814-1019 • Chef-driven fast casual is the number one Home/Office 301-986-8540 | drewcooks@ established and growing restaurant trend. plies to our 40 chapters and to YOU! Whatever mac.com • Prepared food, "grocerant," in-store drinking your summer activity . . . take time to dream Immediate Past President and dining, and produce are expected to cre- and to share your inspiration. And, have fun STACY ZEIGLER ate the most excitement in the retail sector. doing it! Surf’s up! Director of Sales, Bold Catering & Design Aloha, 2160 Niles Place NE LDEI’s international reach and the power of our Atlanta, GA 30324 diversity was beautifully illustrated by the Flavors (678) 938-3196 | [email protected] of Mexico and Edible London, Scotland, and Executive Director GREG JEWELL Cotswolds experiences. These professional, be- President, AEC Management Resources hind-the-scenes travels present an opportunity to Hayley Matson-Mathes P.O. Box 4961 interact with Dames one-on-one from across the President, Les Dames d’Escoffier International Louisville, KY 40204 (502) 456-1851 x1 | [email protected] SUMMER QUARTERLY 2018 3 ENCORE

Six Dames Cook up a Second Brilliant Career

In our frenzied age of unlimited horizons and endless possibilities, many of LDEI’s dynamic women find it both possible and desirable to incorporate a complete career change into their life’s portfolio. Women live longer, are better educated and see no reason to be fettered by inhibitions from the past. Statistics indicate most people will have at least two careers. In this issue, we profile six of our members who have successfully embraced the risks of change. We also give ‘honorable mention’ to many others who have seized the opportunity to reframe their career goals.—Margaret Happel Perry (New York)

earned two Masters Degrees: one in Araceli Ramos Languages at a university in Dusseldorf, MEXICO Germany (studying German, English, and French); and later, another Masters From Hostelería to Culinary Degree in Senior Management from the Ambassador of Mexico Institute of Superior Studies of Monterrey, Guadalajara Campus. There’s zero chance that any other woman Previous to her position at Jose Cuervo, has taught a princess of the Japanese the best-selling tequila in the world, Imperial Family, 25 ambassadors from Araceli was public relations manager such countries as the United Kingdom, at Hotel Camino Real in Guadalajara. Spain, Russia, the U.S., Canada, Brazil, Working with groups and conventions, she Colombia, Argentina, Brazil, and Peru, escorted troops of distributors by bus to and a plethora of movie stars. But when Cuervo’s headquarters in Tequila, Mexico. Araceli Ramos changed careers from and spoke to visiting executives about Seeing that Araceli got along very well Mexico, tequila, traditions, and people. hostelería to tequila, her path lead to an with the groups, Jose Cuervo decided they international prize for outstanding work as Araceli currently serves as Director of needed her to work for them. Tom Snell, Public Relations and Promotions. Having a “Culinary Ambassador of Mexico.” Director for Jose Cuervo International, Graduating from the University of now worked 23 years at Jose Cuervo, she asked her to do international marketing started and developed the concept and Guadalajara, this brilliant, innovative and public relations. She did “on-the-job” Dame from the Mexico Chapter then training about the tequila-making process Continued on next page

4 Les Dames d’Escoffier International brand now known as “Mundo Cuervo®”— At the top of her tequila game, Araceli a Summit of all the First Ladies of Latin Cuervo World—that brings millions now likes to help other countries develop America, the Caribbean-Union, and visits of tourists and dignitaries to a veritable tourist routes: Paraguay’s Ruta de la Caña of Presidents, Secretaries of State, and tequila exposition offering hourly tours (sugar cane route); Chile’s milk route; and Ambassadors of Mexico as well as from of La Rojeña distillery, the oldest in the Colombia’s coffee route. She has served as different countries. And, oh, yes, that Americas, and tequila tastings. Other tours President of the Association of Professionals princess? She is Hisako, Princess Takamado, include the agave fields and the family in Public Relations (RELAPO) and has whom Araceli taught about tequila and cellars. Araceli championed the weekly received numerous awards, both across conducted a tasting. Araceli’s advice on Jose Cuervo Express train which opened to Mexico and worldwide. She lectures at careers: “Do what you love. You can have visitors in February 2012 to help promote various conferences and symposiums at a great job but not like it. Follow your tourist development in the Jalisco area. The universities and at world congresses such as dreams. Believe in yourself, and know what two-hour ride travels 60 kilometers from the World Tourism Expo. you’re able to do.” By CiCi Williamson Guadalajara to Tequila through the agave Araceli has organized events of great (Washington, D.C.). fields and past volcanoes. international relevance at Cuervo, such as

Barbara Hanley BOSTON

From Real Estate Consultant to Partner in an Artisanal Cheese-Making Farm ENCORE Tucked away in Southeastern Massachusetts on the edge of Narragansett Bay and the Atlantic Ocean is Shy Broth- ers Farm—an artisanal cheese company. It is here that Barbara Hanley has found her second career and paradise. After decades of perfecting a stellar career in commercial real estate development with a host of well-earned qualifications, and the distinction of teach- ing in Harvard’s Professional Development Series, Barbara Barbara Hanley with her late husband, Leo Brooks. was burned out. She says, “I was making wealthy people cheese makers’ facilities (includ- cheeses— Hannahbells® and ners have pledged to share wealthier—often with ego-driv- ing many in France) Barbara Cloumage®—as well as an their knowledge with other en golf course development.” It garnered the knowledge and additive-free handmade mozza- cheesemakers by forming the was time to change. understanding essential for a rella curd cheese. Since they are Massachusetts Cheese Guild. In 2006, Massachusetts dairy successful venture. After making lactic acid cheeses, little rennet Today there are twenty-eight farmers were rapidly going test batches for six months, she is used in their production. cheesemakers and several others out of business. In less than realized that it was her business Hannahbells® are a thimble- who are being mentored for five years, fifteen viable farms partner Karl Santos, the young- size, bloomy-rind cheese while admission to the guild. Barbara in Barbara’s town of Westport est of the brothers, who had Cloumage® closely resembles has the distinction of being Point had been reduced to two. the skill, talent, and patience an amalgam of marscapone, the guild’s first president, and It was then that she decided to to become an award-winning ricotta, and cream cheese. Both is presently also the treasurer use her business skills to boost cheesemaker. Her forte: to set cheeses have versions enriched and on the board of directors. economic development through up the financial basis of the new with the subtle addition of Barbara’s key advice to those the creation of value-added cheese-making operation, and herbs and spices. The unique- thinking of a life-altering career products. She partnered with to educate the enterprise about ness of all three cheeses lies in change,” If you don’t love it the four Santos Brothers—third the risks and rewards involved. the ‘terroir’ of meadows bathed enough to do it for free, you generation farmers also known More wisdom from Barbara: in salt air, where the cows graze won’t love it enough to do it for as the Shy Brothers—to make “Back-of-the-envelope calcula- on thick lush grass and care is money. artisanal cheeses as an example tions are pretty risky, and farm- taken to ensure a hormone and of how the Massachusetts dairy ers can’t afford to take that risk.” antibiotic-free diet Find her at: industry could be stabilized. The Shy Brothers now drive Because of the rewarding, but www.shybrothersfarm.com their burgeoning market by By taking cheesemaking exceptionally steep, learning By Margaret Happel Perry. courses, visiting other artisanal means of two proprietary curve, Barbara and her part-

SUMMER QUARTERLY 2018 5 stamps on each endeavor. personal chef’s success and a six-year tour Her roster of Fortune 500 employers gave Belinda the impetus to establish her began with American Airlines in the days spice blend business in 2009. Initially avail- before male flight attendants. She became able only through her website, Belinda’s a marketer at Proctor and Gamble, Avon, spices are now available in Whole Foods and then at the Atlanta headquarters of Food Lion, and other markets. Based in Coca Cola. After seven years in market- Trenton, S.C. Belinda praises the free men- ing, her assignment was as global training toring services of South Carolina’s Small manager for Coca Cola in Africa with a base Business Development Center. Together in Johannesburg. A company reorganiza- with her mentor, she is always fine tuning tion and new CEO necessitated a return to the successful growth of her business, even the U.S. Thanks to Coca Cola’s generosity, though it is eight years since its founding. Belinda had time and space to strategize her Belinda urges, “Constantly take advantage next career move. As she wisely says, “You of all available resources.” may not control the finite timeframe of Professional organizations with their many your employment, so you must have a well support systems and resources are Belinda’s thought-out and flexible plan B.’” essential mainstays, even for her leisure. Belinda’s “plan B” morphed into “plan “Make time for yourself,” is her sage advice. A.” Research led her to study food and Owner of a Beechcraft Sierra aircraft, Be- Belinda Smith-Sullivan hospitality–—always a great passion—at linda was the first African American woman CHARLESTON Johnson and Wales University in Char- pilot—along with her best friend—to lotte, N.C. Her two-year associate degree compete in the cross-country Air Race Clas- From Airline Flight Attendant to was the jumping off point for her current sic, once known as the Powder Puff Derby. Spice Company President successful career thanks to mentors Chef Says Belinda, “Flying is my passion, golf is Reinhart and writing instructor, Daphne my first love, and vegetable gardening is my Meeting Belinda Smith-Sullivan is to Thompson. A favorite class in flavor profil- relaxation” proving she is as intense about encounter a woman with boundless mental ing produced the germ of an idea for a new leisure as she is about business. In March and physical energy. As she talks, it is business. Ever-enterprising, Belinda tested 2019, Belinda will launch a new peach constantly evident that the trajectory of her new writing skills with an article in a cookbook for Gibbs Smith, with the work- her career developed with an exponentially Charlotte-based magazine —a calling card, ing title, Peached: Sweet and Savory Peach dynamic thrust. Whether working for which led to her to become a by-lined Recipes from Soups to Soufflés. Coca-Cola in Africa, becoming the presi- monthly columnist for South Carolina Liv- ing Magazine. New plans “A” and “B” were Find her at: dent of her own spice company, or training www.chefbelindaspices.com to become a commercial pilot, unwavering definitely in place! professionalism is the hallmark Belinda Appealing flavors are the essence of a By Margaret Happel Perry.

chocolatier. How did it begin? Joan Coukos A twenty-year banking career NEW YORK based on her remarkable creden- tials of degrees in Russian and From International Banker to French and enhanced with a mas- Chocolatier Extraordinaire ters’ in business administration took Joan into the international Joan Coukos—a small, dis- banking arena. Her crowning tinguished woman displaying a accomplishment: she opened the quiet authority —welcomes you first Chase Manhattan office in to her business on Manhattan’s Moscow. In the late 1990’s bank- West 20th Street in a building ing was, however, fraught with whose bones are distinctly la belle turmoil and downsizing. It was époque. It is this era that initially while on a vacation trip in Brus- inspired Joan to establish Choco- sels she had an epiphany. lat Moderne near Fifth Avenue’s Walking across La Place du revitalized ‘Ladies Mile’ district. Grande Sablon in Brussels in Her successful ninth floor atelier 2000, Joan happened to see two and shop, where hand-crafted chocolate molds from the turn chocolates are both created and of the twentieth century—la sold, is at the heart of her monu- belle époque—that changed her mental transition from banker to Continued on next page

6 Les Dames d’Escoffier International life. Further reading about ist, and Kathryn Gordon, a Delicatessen in Ann Arbor, channels speak to well-earned the great Belgian chocolatier, pastry chef and instructor. Also Michigan. Add Fig & Olive res- success. “Follow your bliss and Pierre Marolini, added yet in 2003 a trade-marked name taurants, Le District —the new the universe will open doors more inspiration for a career was ready, space leased, and by French food hall at Brookfield for you where once there were in artisanal chocolate making. November’s New York Choco- in lower Manhattan—plus bou- only walls” is Joan’s favorite Following hard on the heels of late Show, Chocolat Moderne tiques at New York airports, to quote from mythologist Joseph learning the art and science of was launched. gain a measure of how eighteen Campbell. Her own quote for chocolate, Joan had to get to Today, replicas of antique years of hard work and critical career-changers:” Be clear why know trade shows, suppliers, molds, the highest quality planning have made Chocolat you want to change. Bring all marketing, and selling resourc- chocolate, innovative on-trend Moderne an exceptional and your personal skills and assets es. By 2003 Joan had devised a fillings, and exquisite packaging booming business. to your new business. Above business plan with advice from bring a rush of instantly recog- The premier sofi™ Gold all, don’t work so much in the a consultant, a new-business nizable clients to Joan’s door. Awards in 2012 and 2013 from business that you can’t work on advisor, and an established There is a wide roster of na- the specialty food industry, the business.” pastry chef. Two of her three tional and international clients being named one of America’s Find her at: initial advisors are now LDNY ranging from Starbucks, Dean top ten chocolatiers, appear- www.chocolatmoderne.com members—Terry Frishman, a & DeLuca’s U.S. and Japanese ances on The Oprah Winfrey start-up food business special- enterprises, and Zingerman’s Show and television food By Margaret Happel Perry.

many wine skills. She is a wine educator Melanie Reeve and presenter with a desire to develop her LONDON wine-writing skills further; she hosts wine- tasting events and teaches WSET certifica- tion courses for instructors; with her global From Bank Manager to Wine knowledge of wines and spirits, she has Expert and Educator made international media appearances in radio, television, and print. Her most re- When Melanie Reeve—a member of cent honor is to be named a “blind tasting” LDEI’s distinguished London Chap- judge in the International Wine Challenge ter—dramatically changed her career held twice a year in London. from banker to wine expert, she made the When asked for career advice Melanie’s transition carefully and purposefully. Like wise recommendation is, “Taste as many nurturing a fine wine, she knew that much wines as possible, and be prepared to really of success lies in the time taken to develop study.” Trends? There is an increasing focus knowledge and expertise. on organic, biodynamic, natural wine. In Towards the end of her twenty-year bank- the UK, close to forty-percent of all wine ing career—during which she rose from lists have at least one. Quality wines from cashier to branch manager of a ‘name’ the Languedoc region in the south of bank, Melanie gave much thought to the France will, she thinks, be one of the next changes needed for her second career. The ‘hot’ buttons. world of wine was the perfect counterpoint What is her over-riding love in the wine to the rigid rules of finance. An after-work industry? Melanie’s answer is a very British, continuing education wine course was “Sherry! The science behind its produc- the impetus for her to begin studying and the company. During her five-year stay, tion is fascinating. I am intrigued with the working in a wine venue during evenings and with his guidance plus the essential solera method by which sherries are made. and on Saturdays. She gradually made her WSET courses, she became a certified wine They take around five to seven years to age commitment to the wine business full- instructor, delivering tastings and WSET and blend and even more for old, darker time. Melanie’s observation, “I was drawn qualification courses alongside Tom. Mela- sherries. I love to visit Xeres—Jerez in by the enthusiasm of my wine tutors and nie says, “When teaching, I draw on the Spain—the heart of the sherry industry.” their ability to convey the vibrancy of the customer relation skills I developed during And Melanie’s bonus recommendation: world of wine. This was certainly a contrast my career in finance.” After five years, it The undiscovered, well-made wines of the to the formality of the financial services was time to move on and grow. Priorat region near Barcelona. environment!” Based in London’s historic Victorian Like all experts, Melanie reserves the Crystal Palace area, Melanie established Find her at: greatest praise for her mentor, Tom Forrest, an independent business—Wine Alive. It [email protected] the manager and resident wine expert at is a platform from which to showcase her By Margaret Happel Perry.

SUMMER QUARTERLY 2018 7 out a space on my floor in masking tape, Katie Button bleached it, called it an extension of my NORTH CAROLINA kitchen counter, and vowed never to HONORABLE MENTIONS: walk on it again. I taught myself how to More Amazing Members with From BioMedical Engineer to Executive roll out puff pastry on that floor...it was Brilliant Second Careers Chef/Restauranteur worth it!” ATLANTA: Tamie Cook Trading test tubes for a whisk, the From occupational therapist to LDEI Atlanta Katie Button is co-owner and execu- culinary alchemist rapidly worked her scholarship winner, private chef, food stylist, and tive chef of Cúrate and Nightbell—two way into the restaurant kitchen. “As fate recipe developer of Asheville, North Carolina’s most ac- would have it,” she says, “I ended up Find at: [email protected] claimed restaurants—and a 2018 James with an apprenticeship at the amazing ATLANTA: Mallory deGolian Beard Award nominee for Best Chef restaurant elBulli.” Run by Ferran Adrià From energy industry executive to food stylist Southeast. Katie says cooking profes- in Catalonia, Spain, elBulli’s lab-like and culinary producer sionally was not something she ever kitchen featured avant-garde molecular Find at: [email protected] dreamed of doing. With superior math gastronomy, a scientific discipline that AUSTIN: Fer Candil and science skills, she was headed down investigates the physical and chemical From lawyer in Spain to chef/owner/events a different career path, earning a B.S. in transformations of ingredients. Now catering entrepreneur in U.S. Chemical and Biomolecular Engineer- closed, elBulli earned the coveted title Find at: [email protected] ing from Cornell University and a M.S “best restaurant in the world” five BIRMINGHAM: Rebecca Satterfield in Biomedical Engineering from École times. Read about Katie’s fascinating From paralegal to executive pastry chef and Centrale in Paris. Then she enrolled in a experiences there as a stagiaire in Lisa restaurant owner prestigious Neuroscience PhD program Abend’s book, The Sorcerer's Apprentices. Find at: [email protected] and in Washington, D.C. After elBulli, the South Carolina native www.satterfieldsrestaurant.com moved with Félix to Asheville BIRMINGHAM: Deborah Stone in the Blue Ridge Mountains, From spa owner to dairy farmer where they became partners in Find at:[email protected] the Heirloom Hospitality Group, CHARLESTON: Deidre Schipani established with her parents, Ted From medical researcher to food, wine, and and Elizabeth Liddell Button— spirits writer/authority and caterer also a North Carolina Dame. Find at: [email protected] Katie brings her own brilliance LOS ANGELES: Caroline Smile and sorcerer's magic to Cúrate, a From jazz musician to chef/owner Rose Catering traditional tapas bar with a ver- Find at: [email protected] muteria (vermouth bar). Night- ENCORENEW YORK: bell focuses on local Appalachian Rozanne Gold From undergrad. psychologist to chef for NYC’s ingredients and craft cocktails. mayor and prize-winning food writer, consultant, Katie says, “The science back- MFA lecturer and university professor ground and structure helps with Find at: rozannegold.com my kitchen organization. It has SAN ANTONIO: Pat Mozersky helped me create system of recipe From dental hygienist to magazine food editor, development and production cookbook author, cooking school owner, and Katie admits that, although it was very that lead to a very consistent, well run host of a TV cooking show. interesting, she wasn’t passionate about environment, and I think that has been a Find at: [email protected] the work she was doing. “I needed to big part of our success.” Katie credits her pull myself out of climbing the academic SAN FRANCISCO: Antonia Allegra husband’s support in making the career From speech and drama undergrad. degree to ladder for a bit to get some perspective,” change, “Félix was hugely helpful and multifaceted food career as book and magazine she explains. During a summer break in instrumental in guiding me and believ- editor, food writing coach, and conference Africa while helping to build houses with ing in me. director Habitat for Humanity, she noticed kids Katie has written a cookbook, Cúrate: Find at: [email protected] playing who seemed happy and carefree. Authentic Spanish Food from an American SEATTLE: Rose Ann Finkel She reminisces, “Every opportunity Kitchen. She has additional restaurant From dental hygienist to multi-restaurant in the world had been given to me to concepts in mind and another book idea. entrepreneur create my own future, and I had found “I’m extremely ambitious even though I Find at: www.pikebrewing.com/bio-rose-ann-finkel/ myself going down a path that made me may not have it all mapped out exactly,” SOUTH FLORIDA: Irene Moore unhappy.” the Southern chef explains. From beauty brands exec. to certified sommelier, Taking charge of her life, Katie left the Her key piece of advice for people multi-magazine wine and food writer/editor and PhD program and took a serving posi- planning a career transition is, “Face co-founder/secretary LDEI South Florida tion at a Spanish restaurant owned by your fears…have faith in yourself. The Find at: [email protected] José Andrés. There, she met her hus- one thing that I have going for me is that ST. LOUIS: Joan Long band, Félix Meana, from Roses, Spain. I’m not afraid of the risk. I know deep From international flight attendant to caterer While in Paris, she had been inspired down that no matter what I am doing, I Find at: www.pattylongcaterering.com by French ingredients and cooking will make it in this world, I will be able techniques. She remembers, “I tried to WASHINGTON D.C.: Joan Nathan to have a good life and succeed...keeping From P. R. officer for Jerusalem’s mayor to teach myself classic French cuisine in that in the back of my mind helped me prize-winning cookbook author and historian my tiny studio apartment. I didn’t have take the big jump to a different career.” Find at: www.joannathan.com or Twitter and enough countertop space, so I marked By Susan Fuller Slack (Charleston). Instagram: @Joan_Nathan

8 Les Dames d’Escoffier International OCTOBER 11-14, 2018

Seattle Conference: Gray Skies, Bright Ideas

By Cynthia Nims, Seattle gathering some of the region’s top shellfish Conference Co-chair growers (oysters, clams, mussels), local seafood-friendly beverages and Seattle chefs Around the end of June, the printed Confer- for something of a seafood extravaganza. ence brochures will go into the mail, soon to Proceeds of the evening will go to a non- land in your mailboxes. About the same time, profit that supports a healthy marine habitat Conference program details and registration in which those delicious seafoods can thrive information will be live as well on the LDEI for years to come. web site. Whichever version you prefer, you The Conference brochure will spell out all will find everything you need to know to the interesting topics and speakers being pre- make initial plans for your time in Seattle in sented in workshops for Friday and Saturday. October. We hope you’re getting ready! We are thrilled that our keynote speaker for In the usual Conference style, Thursday will Friday morning will be Lori Matsukawa, an offer tour opportunities to a number of Se- award-winning anchor for KING 5 News. attle eating and drinking destinations. Most Her years as a Seattle journalist give her a will be the traditional half-day tours, which distinct perspective on what it is that makes will hit delights such as Pike Place Market, and wood-fired pizza to mod steakhouses this city such a hub of creative energy and chocolatiers, breweries, wineries, restaurants, and refined international cuisines. Rather innovative enterprises. Through her natural and other culinary stops. One tour this year than offer formal dine-around plans for that storytelling, Lori will kick off the conference will continue through the afternoon and night, we set you free to explore the city and with reflections on our conference theme— visit an area farm and the oldest winery in its outstanding restaurants on your own (our Gray Skies, Bright Ideas—to set the stage for the state: Chateau Ste Michelle. Remember city guide, with many suggestions, should be an inspiring few days together. that two post-Conference tour options are available late June/early July). LDEI’s Seattle Chapter Dames are so hon- available this year as well, to Eastern Wash- BUT! Before you make that restaurant ored to be hosting the annual Conference this ington and Vancouver BC. booking, know there is an optional event year. With anticipation of a busy, dynamic, Seattle is abundant with dining options for for that evening that is worth considering. delicious, energizing time together, we look Thursday evening, from fabulous oyster bars Particularly if you’re a fan of seafood. We’re very forward to welcoming many of you soon.

SUMMER QUARTERLY 2018 9 MEET THE 2018 GRANDE DAME NOMINEES

xceptionalism at its inest E Flicensing and compliance. Barbara’s contributions reach well beyond es Dames d’Escoffier Arizona. She served on the board International (LDEI) recognizes the of IACP from 1989 to 2002. In outstanding accomplishments of eight 1992, Julia Child and Jacques exceptional women in the fields of food, Pépin both endorsed her for the wine and other fine beverage, hospitality, position of IACP President; she nutrition, and the arts of the table or other served in that venerated position fields that relate to these disciplines. from 1993-1994. Committed Each of the to nurturing future culinarians, eight woman Barbara's generosity includes an was proudly nominated annual scholarship to a female by a chapter to become Barbara Arizona C-CAP student. On every the 15th Grande Dame level, Barbara is genuinely com- named by LDEI. Leading POOL mitted to elevating the culinary by example, they are profession and expanding women's at the top of their fields FENZL possibilities in the culinary world. and already winners, PHOENIX In 1996, she became a found- ing member of Phoenix's LDEI yet only one will be chosen Nominated by the Phoenix Chap- Grande Dame for her work and Chapter and served as President. ter, Barbara Pool Fenzl has long Barbara’s impressive resume speaks contributions to LDEI and her community. been known for Les Gourmettes, The international honor will be bestowed to her exceptional professional the cooking school she founded accomplishments, along with her at a special gala during the 2018 Annual in 1983. A magnet for regionally Conference in Seattle. strong record of charitable and and internationally known chefs community involvement. Established in 1993, the Grande Dame and culinary experts, it is Arizona’s Award has been conferred every two years, oldest and continuously operating but in 2017, it became an annual award. cooking school. Her culinary career Both LDEI members and nonmembers started with advice from Julia are eligible for nomination. In 2003, two Child, who encouraged Barbara winners (Abigail Kirsch and Rosemary to attend Le Cordon Bleu—where Kowalski) were chosen due to a tie. The she herself had studied—before current Grande Dame recipient is Lidia Barbara started her own cooking Bastianich (New York). school. Along the way, Barbara Before the award was established in 1993, has become an authority on the 11 Chapter Grande Dames were selected, cuisine of the Southwest. She is the first being Julia Child in 1977. Helen the author of three internationally Duprey Bullock, M.F.K. Fisher, and celebrated cookbooks: Savor the Carol Brock followed. To read Southwest; Southwest: the Beautiful the names of all the Grande Cookbook; and Seasonal Southwest Dames, visit www.ldei.org. Cooking. Barbara hosted a suc- Barbara All of these nominees cessful, syndicated cooking series and winners stand out… on PBS as a companion to those GLUNZ not that they are continually in books. That combination provided CHICAGO the spotlight, but they are always leading a nationwide platform for South- Nominated by the Chicago Chap- in their places of influence—encouraging western cuisine. Less well known and inspiring others to achieve remarkable ter, Barbara Glunz is the third- is Barbara's tireless activism at the generation force behind the House accomplishments too. Congratulations to all Arizona state legislature on behalf the 2018 nominees.—Susan Fuller Slack. of Glunz and Glunz Tavern, well of home-based and gourmet-shop known for fine wines and spirits. cooking schools. She worked Growing up “above the shop” tenaciously to get legislation passed in Chicago’s Old Town neigh- protecting those businesses from borhood, Barbara witnessed her the requirements of restaurant-level

10 Les Dames d’Escoffier International father’s work as an importer, and LDEI. She serves on advisory 88.9 FM in Miami for 10 years, distributor, and retailer firsthand. boards for the Edible Academy for with distinguished guests such as She gained a unique perspective the New York Botanical Gardens Daniel Boulud, Francis Ford Cop- and familiarity with cellar work by and for the Food and Finance High pola, and Eric Ripert. In addition, observing her father and two kell- School in New York City. Carla is she owned and operated a cooking ermeisters from Spain and Portugal also a member of the James Beard school in Miami for 12 years. who worked with the barrels. She Foundation’s Women’s Leadership Carole grew up in Miami and joined her father to import wines Advisory Committee and is Culi- has been reporting on the devel- from excellent estates in Burgundy nary Ambassador for Sweet Home opment of “ New World Cuisine” and Germany, which included Cafe at the Smithsonian National for more than 20 years. She is the first growths of Alexis Lichine Museum for African American valued as much for her expertise as Bordeaux and Bernard Coron History and Culture. she is her consummate profession- Burgundy. alism as a Dame. Barbara took several years leave Carla from the business to raise her six HALL children in Springfield, Illinois. WASHINGTON, D.C. Returning to the wine business fulltime, she worked as a whole- Nominated by the Birmingham sale representative handling the Chapter, Carla Hall is a co-host downtown Chicago territory for of ABC’s Emmy award-winning, Louis Glunz Wines—the first popular lifestyle series “The Chew.” house to bring small California She had been a competitor on wineries into Illinois—with Bravo TV ’s “Top Chef” and “Top labels that included Heitz, Chef: All Stars,” where she won Schramsberg, Jordan, Trefethen, over audiences with her philosophy Mayacamas, Dry Creek, and to always cook with love. Carla’s other California pioneers. Her mantra is: “If you’re not in a good natural talent to pair menus mood, the only thing you should and wine lists brought impres- make is a reservation.” She is a Carole Pat sive sales and resulted in lasting member of both the Washington, friendships with chefs and res- D.C. and New York Chapters. KOTKIN MOZERSKY taurateurs, for whom she served Carla’s approach to cooking SOUTH FLORIDA SAN ANTONIO blends her classic French training as a consultant to design wine Nominated by the South Florida Nominated by the San Anto- lists and train staffs in the art of and Southern upbringing. Her cookbooks include Carla’s Comfort Chapter, Carole Kotkin is a cook- nio Chapter, Pat Mozersky has serving and selling wine. ing teacher, cookbook author, and done it all including serving as After 12 years as a representative Food: Favorite Dishes from Around the World and Cooking with Love: a food and travel writer. She writes President of LDEI, writing three for Louis Glunz Wines, Barbara a syndicated food column, Today’s cookbooks, starring in a TV food became the French Specialist for Comfort Food That Hugs You; her newest, Carla Hall’s Soul Food: Special, for the Miami Herald, series, serving as a magazine food Paterno Imports (now Terlato which appears in 400 newspapers editor, writing a top-ranking Wines International). She worked Everyday and Celebration, will be published October 2018. A native across the country. Carole is also newspaper food column, and with distributors to conduct sales the manager of Carysfort Kitchen chairing noteworthy food events meetings and write sales materi- of Nashville, Tennessee, Carla received her degree in account- Cooking School at Ocean Reef on both local and national levels. als in an easy-to-learn format for Club, a private club in Key Largo, Pat was a founding member of the the company’s sales staff. When ing, but European travel inspired a new career path. She trained at Florida. During her 20 years San Antonio Chapter and served the Terlato family appointed an there as manager, she has hosted as president from 1996-2001. elite team to market its high-end L’Academie de Cuisine in Mary- land before becoming sous chef at noted chefs and cookbook authors She also served internationally portfolio, Barbara was the only including Sara Moulton and as LDEI Secretary (2000-2002), female working with five male the Henley Park Hotel in Washing- ton, D.C. She served as execu- Michael Solomonov. 1st Vice President (2004-2005), sommeliers. Carole compiled the first Miami/ President (2005-2006), and as Im- Since 1984 , Barbara has been tive chef at both The State Plaza Hotel and The Washington Club South Florida Zagat Restaurant mediate Past President. Pat wrote a revered and engaged member Survey and was co-founder and What’s Cooking, San Antonio? and of Les Dames d’ Escoffier. She and taught classes at CulinAerie, Sur la Table, and L’Academie de chairman of the South Florida The Hungry Traveler: Italy. She was served as president of the Chi- Chapter of The American Institute co-editor of LDEI’s cookbook, cago Chapter, 2005-2008. She Cuisine. Carla is also active with not-for-profit organizations close of Wine and Food for seven years. Cooking with Les Dames d'Escoffier: has done wine pairings for the She was a regional judge for the At Home with the Women Who chapter’s cookbooks and served to her heart. She serves as a board member for the Pajama Program James Beard Foundation Awards Shape the Way We Eat and Drink. as liaison to the Green City Mar- and was on the nominating com- Pat received her degree from ket Board. In the early years of and GenYouth. She actively works with Chef Jose Andres’ World mittee for the Slow Foods Awards, the University of Manitoba in its inception, she ran the GCM as well as a charter member of the Canada. She founded and directed Chefs’ BBQ—now considered Central Kitchen Chef Network, DC Central Kitchen, The U.S.O., Miami and South Florida Chap- Ma Maison Cooking School from one of Chicago’s premier, chef- ters of Les Dames d' Escoffier. She 1987-1995. For 23 years, Pat driven culinary events. St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital, Feeding America, co-hosted the weekly “Food & wrote the “Chefs’ Secrets” column Women Chefs and Restaurateurs, Wine Talk” program on WDNA for the San Antonio Express-News,

SUMMER QUARTERLY 2018 11 helping the food section win from which she retired in Sep- in organic food for 38 years. In best in the country five times. tember 2017. She is also Visiting 2017, she was the recipient of She was also food editor of San Professor of Nutritional Sciences the James Beard Foundation’s Antonio Woman magazine from at Cornell University. Marion is Lifetime Achievement Award. 2005-2013 and a food writer for the author of six prize-winning Her career as a restaurateur and San Antonio Taste magazine from books including Food Politics: author has created a powerful 2010-2011. How the Food Industry Influences legacy. In 1999 when Restaurant A student of classic French, Ital- Nutrition and Health and Soda Nora opened, she was the first ian, and Thai cooking for three Politics: Taking on Big Soda (and American chef to open the first decades, Pat developed and starred Winning). From 2008 to 2013, certified-organic restaurant in in 135 cooking shows for “What’s she wrote a monthly “Food Mat- the United States. Nora says, Cooking, San Antonio?” Through ters” column for the San Francisco “People don’t always understand her classes, articles, columns, and Chronicle. Marion is working on how complicated and time TV shows, Pat has had a profound her newest book, Unsavory Truth: consuming it is. Almost every- Martine effect on generations of South How Food Companies Skew the thing has to be organic down Texans. Science of What We Eat (October to the spices, coffee, and wine. SAUNIER Pat co-chaired LDEI’s and 2018). Among her many honors The cleaners, paint, rugs, and SAN FRANCISCO IACP’s annual conferences in and awards: John Dewey Award bathroom products used at Res- Nominated by the San Francisco San Antonio and was a charter for Distinguished Public Service, taurant Nora are all eco-friendly Chapter, Martine Saunier holds member and co-chair of the New Bard College; Public Health Hero and biodegradable, and we the distinction of being the first World Wine and Food Festival Award, University of Califor- recycle and compost everything.” woman importer/distributor of for nine years. She was named nia School of Public Health at In collaboration with LDEI wines in the United States. Born Ann Yonkers Woman of the Year by the Leuke- Berkeley; James Beard Foundation Past President , in Paris, Martine spent summers mia and Lymphoma Association. Leadership Award; Innovator of Nora is credited with dream- at her aunt’s winery in Burgundy A tireless worker for Les Dames the Year Award, U.S. Health- ing up Washington, D.C.'s first where she developed her love and locally and internationally, Pat’s ful Food Council; City & State producer-only farmers’ market knowledge of wine while refining culinary legacy is unmatched Reports' Responsible 100 Award and jumpstarting the farm-to- her palate. In 1964, Martine met regionally. in Food Politics; Academy of table movement in that region. and married an American doctor, My Organic Life: Culinary Nutrition's Top 50 Food Nora’s memoir moved to San Francisco, became How a Pioneering Chef Changed Activists; and Public Health As- a U.S. citizen, and helped raise the Way We Eat Today sociation of NYC’s Media Award. , recounts his children. She also brought her Soda Politics In 2016, won awards her remarkable journey. Nora French standards for wine to the from the James Beard Foundation tirelessly advocates her commit- table. Frustrated by the limited and the International Associa- ment to nutritionally whole- wine choices at her local market, tion of Culinary Professionals. some food and a sustainable, she offered to find better wine Marion is a member of numerous health-focused lifestyle based on selections for them—and they editorial and journal advisory the premise that “you are what agreed. On her first buying trip to Cooking Light, boards including you eat, drink, and breathe.” In France, Martine established her Eating Well, Gastronomica, Journal addition to her work support- routine of seeking fine, small mak- of Public Health Policy, Journal of ing the organic food movement, ers whose wines were unknown in Culinary Science & Technology , and she continually champions for the U.S. She embraced Château The Lancet Advisory Board. She a cleaner environment. For Rayas—her initial find—as blogs at www.foodpolitics.com. LDEI, Nora has hosted a Legacy perhaps the premier estate in the Marion Award winner for the past two southern Rhone. Her network years, opening her home and of producers grew extensively as NESTLE restaurant to a lucky recipient NEW YORK she explored wineries in Oregon, for one week each summer. She California, Austria, Spain, and Nominated by the New York also spoke at the LDEI Confer- Portugal. By 1969, she was work- Marion Nestle Chapter, , PhD is ence last fall, was a Conference ing for a California importer. an internationally recognized re- patron, and hosted the LDEI With her public relations and searcher, degreed nutritionist, and Past Presidents’ dinner. “Nora marketing skills, as well as her author who has been named by has been a loyal member and wine knowledge, she created a Forbes Magazine as number two of generous supporter of the very successful, highly focused "the world's seven most powerful Washington, D.C. Chapter for customer base of physicians and foodies." Known worldwide for 25 years,” says chapter member attorneys. Today, Gregory Castells Janet Yu her vast nutritional knowledge . “She has a history of leads the company with Martine and passionate food advocacy, she being a leader in a wide range on board to ensure that long-term has been called a food fighter for of environmental causes but her relationships and the firm’s storied her efforts in establishing a food Nora core message is that ‘health is reputation continue. Says San movement that calls on people to POUILLON wealth, and organic and local Francisco Chapter member Jerry leverage food for political change. food are the key ingredients in DiVecchio, “Martine now devotes WASHINGTON, D.C. Marion is Paulette Goddard Pro- building a healthy life.’” even more time to good causes fessor of Nutrition, Food Studies, Nominated by the Washington, and keeps the wine flowing for and Public Health, Emerita, at D.C. Chapter, Nora Pouillon San Francisco Dames.” New York University (NYU), in recently retired from her Restau- the department she created and rant Nora, where she was a force chaired from 1988-2003, and 12 Les Dames d’Escoffier International 2

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ancient Mayan ruins (600 to 1200 A.D.) The Yucatán Flavors of Mexico centers on a massive step pyramid, known as El Castillo. Slurping delicious ice cream By CiCi Williamson about 90 minutes to the village of Tixkokob to cool us from the hot day, we proceeded for dinner at Pueblo Pibil (Mayan for “bur- to a traditional cantina, Eladios, where we (Washington, D.C.) sampled Mérida’s version of tapas. Ch-ch-ch-chocolate, chaya, and chilies are ied”). Chef Silvio Capos’ specializes in cook- ing underground. We viewed the cooking pits The Mexico Chapter arranged to have black, a few of the foods that originated with the floral-embroideredHipil con Faustan hand Mayans. Add avocados, black beans, corn, while sipping habanero Margaritas (Yow!). After the starter of Tokcel (lima bean-stuffed made for each Dame and, for the men, white papayas, and tomatoes (cultivated from Peru) Guayaberas with the LDEI logo stitched onto and you have the basis of Yucatecan cuisine. masa topped with shrimp and flambéed with tequila), we enjoyed a scrumptious green pat- a cuff. Las Calezas (horse-drawn carriages) The Mexico Chapter researched and delivered clip-clopped us leisurely to our last dinner at a tour that showed the best foods and sites of typan squash stuffed with ground venison. Setting off the third day, we were given a Restaurant Kuuk, situated in a 1900s mansion Mérida, the capital of Yucatán, and its sur- on a main avenue. We alighted and were seated rounding area. “shopping list” of unusual products to buy at the mercado en route to Hacienda Ochil, at a long rectangle where innovative dishes Headed by Maria Gomez-Laurens, Araceli based on Mayan ingredients and created by Ramos, and Rocio Meija—the same trio where Las Mujeres Mayas used the foods to teach Dames how to make many Mayan Chef Pedro Evia were served in eight courses. who brought us to Guadalajara and Te- To learn more about this amazing tour, visit quila last year—and their committee, the 37 dishes that we enjoyed for lunch. A cooling drink of horchata—made from rice, al- www.ldei.org for additional photos and Dames and guests from 16 chapters began a companion story by Elaine Cicora our four-day tour blessed by a Mayan Cha- monds, cinnamon, and sugar—was on tap to refresh those cooking over the open fires. (Cleveland), grand prize winner of the man and were entertained by a troupe of mu- 2018 M.F.K. Fisher Awards. sicians and dancers performing La Danza del And the ever-present Araceli was always Cochino. Parading to La Tradición restaurant, ready to dispense José Cuervo tequila. we got our first taste of Yucatecan cuisine At night, we viewed a high-tech light-and- 1. Dames wearing embroidered black Hipil by Chef David Cetina with Chef Jeremiah sound show known as “video mapping.” Imag- con Faustan dresses. Photo: Oscar Velazquez. es depicting the region’s history were projected 2. La Danza del Cochino. Photo Oscar Tower as our guest. We were greeted with a Velazquez. 3. Dames and their guests visit chaya cocktail, and a chaya-laced with on the façade of San Idelfonso Cathedral. Next we walked to Las Terrazas del Olimpio Chichén Itzá. Photo: Oscar Velazquez. 4. habanero sauce was one of the courses. Chaya Chaya-laced tamale with habanero sauce (“tree spinach”) is indigenous to Yucatán. overlooking the Plaza Grande for a five-course and chaya leaf. Photo: CiCi Williamson. 5. On the second day, our coach headed to dinner hosted by the Tourism Board of Mérida LDEI bus with New York Dames Joan Brower, Deborah Mintcheff, Marcia Palanci, Pamela Sotuta de Peon, a henequen plantation where with the lovely woman mayor of Mérida, María Dolores Fritz (see page 32). Morgan. Photo: Mike Mathes. 6. Dames some Dames tried separating the sisal into in black. Photo: Oscar Velazquez. 7. Carol fibers, some swam in a cenote (sinkhole), and Chichén Itzá, one of the seven wonders Brock and Chef Luis Gonzales. Photo: Mike some just relaxed before lunch at the haci- of the New World, was the destination for Mathes. 8. Mayan women cooking. Photo: enda’s main house. In the evening, we rode our last day in Mérida. The complex of the Oscar Velazquez.

SUMMER QUARTERLY 2018 13 Celebrates 135 Years

continue to innovate and further build the business for the next gen- The year 2018 erations to come. In 1912, Second Generation marks the 135th Winegrower and son of C.H. Wente, Ernest Wente, brought anniversary since Chardonnay cuttings from the vine nursery at University Montpel- lier France to the Wente property. the Wente family Today, roughly 80 percent of all California Chardonnay have story began. derived from those cuttings, com- monly known as the Wente Clone. In 1883, First Generation Wine- To pay homage to their rich history grower, C.H. Wente, purchased of Chardonnay, a limited edition 47 acres of land in California’s of 135th Anniversary Celebratory Livermore Valley, just 25 miles Chardonnay was released in May. east of the San Francisco Bay. As The celebratory wine is a tribute to the country's oldest, continuously the best fruit from both the Arroyo operated, family-owned winery, Seco, Monterey region as well as the Wente Vineyards is now in its Fifth Livermore Valley. The vintage label Generation of Winegrowers and pays homage to the 1936 Wente is an international brand offering Brother’s Pinot Chardonnay, which outstanding wine and wine coun- was the first ever varietally labeled try experiences. Chardonnay in the United States. “I am both grateful for and This limited-edition 135th Anniver- proud of my family’s accomplish- sary Celebratory Chardonnay can ments,” states CEO and Fourth only be purchased on-property, on Generation Winegrower Carolyn the winery’s website, and in select Wente,”—from choosing the Liver- markets throughout the country. more Valley to plant our roots; to In addition to the special release establishing the Wente Clone of Chardonnay, the family will also be Chardonnay; to pioneering the hosting a 135th dinner celebration Arroyo Seco, Monterey winegrow- for guests to enjoy on-property. ing region; to delivering a range With ingredients for each course of wine country experiences that coming from Wente’s own organic include a restaurant, championship garden, this special event will be an golf, and concerts by Ray Charles, opportunity to share stories from James Taylor and more.” the family’s history as well as a way With the Fourth and Fifth Gen- for the family to say thank you for erations currently at the helm of the the continued support of guests business, this year is not only about throughout the years. The 135th looking back at the business that dinner celebration will be tak- the family’s previous generations ing place in July and the family is have built and sustained but also looking forward to this incredible, looking forward as to how they will intimate night.

14 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Celebrates 135 Years

CHARLES WETMORE ERIC’S CABERNET SAUVIGNON CHARDONNAY 2014 2016

FAMILY OWNED. ESTATE GROWN. CERTIFIED SUSTAINABLE. LEARN MORE AT WENTEVINEYARDS.COM WENTE VINEYARDS. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 1466 © 2018 WENTE VINEYARDS.

SUMMER QUARTERLY 2018 15 Tour de Farm Brings the Community Together

By Jennifer Justus operation. At each location, guests liver pâté with smoked peach jam. (Nashville) met with the farmers—as well As participants took their seats as their goats, sheep, cows—and the dinner courses began to flow, pink school bus, a tour chefs who served treats inspired by including the main event: butter- of four farms, bites by the farmers’ wares. For example, milk on goat cheese the city’s best chefs, and Maneet Chauhan of Chauhan Ale drizzled with spicy honey by Mar- a four-course seated & Masala House served lamb meat- got McCormack of Margot Cafe. dinner for 200 at a balls made with Tavalin Tails meats A grilled spring onion vinaigrette famous singer’s barn? paired with her Mantra Ale. At with sweet potatoes and kale em- That’s how the Nashville Dames Hatcher Family Dairy, Chef Crys- bodied the season and farm-focused celebrated their second annual Tour tal De Luna-Bogan of The Grilled event by tasting earthy and bright. de Farm fundraiser for scholarships Cheeserie whipped up milkshakes Pillows of fried dough piled with to women in food and agriculture. infused with local honey, a hint of strawberries and cream provided Essentially two events in one, the orange, and a honeycomb-bee pol- a sweet ending, courtesy of Dame day began with VIP ticket hold- len toffee and edible flower atop. pastry collaborators—Rebekah ers boarding the Nash Trash Tour The bus parked for a final time Turshen of City House and Lisa bus, whose popular (and hilarious) at Michael W. Smith’s Deer Val- Marie White of Thompson Hotel. guides regaled guests with stories ley Barn where VIP guests joined But first, Les Dames Nashville Pres- as the group bounced down to about 160 additional guests who ident Sylvia Ganier (and Green the lush farmlands of Williamson had arrived to mingle among silent Door Gourmet farmer) joined County, just 20 miles south of auction items. Dubbed “Commu- Co-Chairs Tallu Quinn of The Nashville. nity Hour,” it was a mobile version Nashville Food Project and writer The bus stopped at Delvin Farms, of happy hour benefitting a local Erin Byers Murray to remind the area’s largest organic farm; elementary school and regularly guests how their attendance would Tavalin Tails, an organic meat hosted at Cara Graham’s restaurant help support women in food, “It farm; Hatcher Family Dairy, where Lockeland Table. Her business part- is truly through the bootstraps of cows produce milk, cream, and ner, Chef Hal Holden-Bache, made other people pulling you along that cheese; and Noble Springs, a goat the experience mobile by serving makes your career.” dairy and artisanal cheese-making restaurant favorites like chicken

16 Les Dames d’Escoffier International SUMMER QUARTERLY 2018 17 WINE, CONVERSATION, AND MEMORIES with Hayley Matson-Mathes By Susan Fuller Slack Chairs Catherine Hazen, Cynthia Nims, Traveling South to Texas, Hayley met with (Charleston) and Naomi Kakiuchi. the Houston Chapter Board while enjoying In December, Hayley traveled to the snowy their warm hospitality. Success starts at the top. An organization’s tone is vistas of Washington, D.C., to attend a D.C. When the Yucatán Peninsula beckoned in set by the actions of its leaders; its culture is visibly Chapter potluck—rich with international March, Hayley participated in the Mexico reinforced by their values and words. Being an ef- holiday traditions. Hayley learned about the Chapter’s fabulous trip: Flavors of Mexico fective leader is the ability to take ownership of an chapter’s educational programing and met (page 13). In May, she was one of thirty-six organization and inherently do what is best for it. with LDEI lawyer Jackie Henson and First Dames (six were LDEI Board members) to at- Communication—think dialogue—is a bedrock Vice President Ann Stratte to discuss upcom- tend multiple segments of the London Chap- of leadership. Getting to know the membership ing webinar strategies. ter’s magnificent Edible London, Scotland, of each chapter builds good rapport and creates New York City was the next stop on Hayley’s and Cotswolds adventures. a shared sense of purpose and motivation. This itinerary, where she attended LDEI’s January LDEI Board members have also been is the most effective way to shape and sustain an Board of Directors meeting and visited the busy this year visiting chapters at their own organization’s culture. New York Chapter Dames. Communication expense. Sharon Olson traveled to New With this strategy in mind and a clear vision and collaboration topped the Board’s list of Orleans; Ann Stratte to South Florida and for LDEI’s future, Hayley Matson-Mathes New Year’s resolutions. Miami; Deborah Mintcheff, Charleston; and (Hawaii) began her year as international presi- In February, Hayley visited the Sacramento, Beth Pav, Dallas. In the May President’s Mes- dent by initiating San Francisco, and Mon- sage, Hayley reports that she has visited ten an outreach pro- terey Bay Chapters—as al- LDEI Chapters so far, and additional visits gram in which she ways, at her own expense. In are planned by Bev Shaffer to Kentucky and made a personal honor of the occasion Amy Drew Faulkner to Ann Arbor.. contact with every Hoopes, President of Wente Perhaps leadership in itself is not what’s so chapter in No- Family Estates, hosted a din- important, but what you do with it to inspire vember 2017. The ner at the winery’s historic others. In every situation, it’s essential to get following month, sandstone wine caves. to know individuals to convey that their work she launched has purpose, significance, and importance. an intermittent Hayley says, “Visiting chapters has been the year of travel to best part of this job...The beautiful connect with as Hawaiian word kuleana conveys the many chapters value of responsibility and the im- face-to-face as portance of seeking opportunities to possible. Her serve—a privilege and an honor.” first stop was Se- attle to support the chapter’s Above: A visit with the Houston Chapter. fundraiser— Hayley and Dames visit Wente’s sandstone wine caves. Below: Hayley attends a Urban Har- Washington, D.C. holiday potluck. Hayley vest—and to Matson-Mathes in Mexico. Hayley and meet with 2018 Mike Mathes in Edinburgh during Edible Conference Scotland. Photos: Mike Mathes.

18 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Les Dames d’Escoffier LDNY LEGACY Author Peggy Lampman from the Ann Arbor Chapter shares treasured memories about Malvina THE FIRST FIVE YEARS C Kinard, her great aunt who, by all accounts, was “a maverick and force to be reckoned with!” Malvina became a member of LDNY during the … and beyond. ‘70s. Armed with a Diplome de Cuisine from Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, Malvina opened a cooking PART THREE school in Westport, Connecticut, and began writing cookbooks. One of her students was Christopher Kimball, co-founder of America’s By Susan Fuller Slack Test Kitchen. A New York Times article wrote, (Charleston) “he began taking cooking classes at a culinary The final installment of this three-part school owned by Malvina Kinard, a middle-age series highlights the early years of Les divorcée and friend of Julia Child.” According to Dames d’Escoffier, New York (LDNY). In Christopher, “I drove the instructors crazy asking 1973, Carol Brock—the food reporter for about minute points of food science…and received New York Daily News—received a charter indignant, unsatisfying to start a professional, women’s culinary answers.” “society,”—the first of its kind. From this “Peggy says when she was beginning, Le Dames d’Escoffier Interna- Dames.” Chapter participation was 90 12-years-old, her mother tional (LDEI) was formed. The society’s re-created every recipe in success—mapped out by its first President percent, and LDNY netted $1,761.86.” Malvina’s first cookbook Carol Brock and fifty charter members—is Saks was decorated in the opulent Art to the beat of her newly reflected in the organization’s enduring Moderne style and was the byword for purchased whisk while taste and elegance. The popular event credibility, longevity, and strength. Today, singing Aunt Malvina’s Malvina Kinard. Courtesy LDEI is 40 chapters strong with a mem- garnered high praise; gossip columnist praises. [The Kitchen of Peggy Lampman. Scholar was co-authored bership of 2,341Dames. Liz Smith [known as the “Grande Dame most by Marjorie Blanchard, Carol filled her semiannual reports of Dish”] praised LDNY as “the prestigious culinary organization!” Carol Citadel Press] She confides, “This sealed the with fascinating notes about the mem- deal for me; to be a women in the specialty food bers, fundraisers, scholarships, honors, wrote, “There was a wonderful feeling of accomplishment. A member comment- industry was to be a woman of independence, and growth of the “society.” The details intelligence, pluck, and strength.” Malvina was all below are from the early years. ed, ‘When I joined, I wasn’t sure about that and more! Peggy says when Malvina attended Six Founding Dames: Carol initially Les Dames. Now I am. It’s for me!’” her wedding in 1979, “She regaled my mother and Scholarships: organized the “society” with her com- In 1978 Carol writes, me with news about the organization she’d joined mittee of five New York women with “Funding scholarships is always a top and had been working with in Manhattan: Les food connections: Beverly Barbour- priority.” Scholarships were awarded Dames d’Escoffier. She was having the time of her Anna life, and it all sounded very sophisticated! Imagine Soules (the CIA connection); He- that year in honor of the late Muffoletto my delight, some forty years later, to be tapped as lene Bennett (the Gourmet Society ; to students at the CIA and NYCC; and to the Schlesinger a Dame myself!” connection); Mary Lyons (the French Peggy shared correspondence from the NYU connection); Ella Elvin (Daily News— Library at Radcliffe College, which has collections on women’s achieve- Library archives between Malvina and LDNY. In the corporate connection); and Elayne 1982, Carol Brock requested that she review two Kleeman (the wine connection). ments and cookbooks for historical complicated sets of by-laws (presumably that of Fundraising: From a January 1978 research. “Over $3,000 remains in the LDNY and D.C. (1981) or Chicago (1982). Malvina entry: “The Culinary Shop of Saks Fifth scholarship fund—a very, very sizable responded, “The latest versions are very good… Avenue distributed 1,500 invitations amount,” noted Carol. There is only one real omission…the inclusion of this past November for a “Salute to Les Continued on page 21 money somewhere…some sort of provision for expenses for officials—either by the chapters or by the international organization for its president- elect, or we will have a hard time finding people to serve.” In February 1991, Malvina wrote Rozanne Gold, “At nearly 88, you’d think I would stop embarking on food projects, but I seem to be driven to just do one more thing each time. Now I am finishing up a book on preserving in small quantities, in the smallest kitchen in the world—and without sugar. It is a challenge, but a lot of fun and I am gasping at an April deadline…. Beverly Cox is helping me. She is a sound worker and unflappable in crises, I find.” Malvina was recovering from a bad case of shingles and added, “I don’t have time to be sick!” For more information about Malvina’s book, Well-Preserved, Carol Brock and Araceli Ramos in Mexico. Photo: Oscar Velazquez. LDEI President check on Amazon.—Susan Fuller Slack. Hayley Matson-Mathes with Beverly Barbour-Soules, now a San Francisco Dame, visit Wente’s sandstone caves (read page 18). Photo: Mike Mathes.

SUMMER QUARTERLY 2018 19 FUNDRAISING: Ideas for Building Your Toolkit is becoming recognized as a London Chapter Secretary Sue culinary/tourist destination. Real- Carter, collaborating with Presi- dent Jacqui Pickles, shares LDE This is the first article in a new Quarterly series izing the importance of greater fundraising, our entire chapter London’s story with top fund- on fundraising—a cornerstone of LDEI’s mission team has become engaged. raising tips. of philanthropy. There are many ways a 501(c ) We just completed the first “As a newish and smallish (3) tax-exempt nonprofit can bring in revenue; event in which we sought chapter, LDEI London struggled we will explore them in articles and interviews participation by the community in the past eight years to find the with Dames and other experts. There is a saying at large—the Lamb Jam. Chefs right type of event to attract the interest of industry, the public, that, “Events put the fun in fundraising.” An demonstrated a whole lamb breakdown (butchery) and shared and our membership. Consider event-based fundraiser—whether a grassroots menu ideas. Our sponsors were that London is a city of nearly effort or established, big budget production—is Kentucky Proud, a state govern- eight million…you quickly real- often a chapter’s main source of revenue. In this ment agricultural group, Mich- ize that our little satellite chapter series, you’ll read about the challenges chapters can ter’s Distillery, Old 502 Winery, not only competes with hundreds face, and about best practices, new technological and the American Lamb Board. of events taking place on almost The event leader was a Dame any given day, but getting the tools, and even work-life balance. I invited owner of an organically grown word out to the right people— Kentucky and London—two vibrant, young LDEI lamb farm. Part of the proceeds i.e., our audience—is almost chapters—to lead off with a review of their initial will go toward a butchery class, impossible. efforts at fundraising. Judy Hollis (Kentucky) and at no charge, for LDKY mem- We’ve also found it hard to in- Sue Carter with Jacqui Pickles (both London) bers and 1 guest each. We have volve other members in planning and organizing events. As with responded immediately with remarkable candor learned the importance of media relations, social media, engaging most chapters, it is usually the and generous advice. Fundraising is hard work; culinary bloggers and about de- same handful of members who we believe the exchange of ideas and concrete, tails that need to be planned up help. Having said that, we do actionable tips in this series will inspire you! — front—not at the last minute! try to target members who can Susan Fuller Slack (Charleston). The chapter plans to hold a provide specific expertise or con- Kentucky Bourbon Trail and Cu- nections—it’s more rewarding to linary Tour timed with the 2019 be direct in asking than waiting LDEI Conference in Nashville for someone to offer. (two hours away). This has seri- Over the years we’ve learned a ously engaged our chapter and few lessons, and we have finally we formed a special committee to hit on a fundraising event with organize the event with support a ready audience and the added from the Board and standing bonus of member recruitment: committees. We Kentuckians the panel discussion. We invite Judy Hollis Sue Carter Jacqui Pickles are proud of our agriculture, our well-known women chefs/writ- culinary culture, our bourbon, ers/restaurateurs to discuss issues and our hospitality, so we’re that affect women in the culinary arts and hospitality. Judy Hollis, President of the is $10,000. This may seem small anxious to show it off to our Our inaugural panel discussion Kentucky Chapter wrote, “As a to many chapters, but we are fellow Dames. Our committees was held in the 2017 celebration new chapter that is only three making steady progress. are meshing as teams, and we’re of International Women’s Day years old, we continually learn The Board realized last year that focused more on process, results, (IWD), drawing an audience of about fundraising. The first most of the fundraising effort and communications with each close to capacity of 100. More year, our largest fundraiser was was falling on Board members. other and the entire chapter. recently, we maxed out our space a December cookie sale that Therefore, as I assumed the Our overall tips are: Engage supported three scholarships President’s role for 2018-19, they the entire chapter in of $1,000 each to the culinary supported me in developing a fundraising; develop school at Sullivan University stronger committee structure, so a process of cross- in Louisville. Renamed a Bake we can create additional, larger committee collabora- Sale, we added additional sweet events beneficial to women and tion for planning and and savory items; the fundraiser our community. The chapter held executing each event; brought in even more money. We a Town Hall meeting to develop and engage media for also achieved financial success our specific mission and goals as long term success. with interesting events marketed a chapter team. Goals include Just go for it!” to members and guests only, increasing culinary scholarships including dinner at the Kentucky and providing members with The dining room at the Kentucky Governor's Governor’s Mansion and dinner continuing education opportuni- Mansion is set for at well-known chef’s homes. We ties and seminars that will elevate dinner for Dames and grew our scholarships to $5,000, culinary, fine beverage, and their guests. Photo then $6,000 and now our target hospitality in our state. Kentucky courtesy of Judy Hollis.

20 Les Dames d’Escoffier International FIRST FIVE YEARS from page 19 M.F.K. Fisher thanked Carol for the “blue paper” flyers about LDNY that the membership committee had distributed at Saks. She wrote, “I am glad you put it on paper, because I have been try- holding personal data are ing to talk about it to a few people…some of my captive audience about to change. Check to have been or are unusually well-trained American women who see if this is legal in your simply cannot get good jobs…send me three or four copies of your state/province. Blue Paper.” • Send out a “Save the Date” The Directory: A Who’s Who of Les Dames was compiled; bios email as soon as you have mailed to those who sent a $3 check to Dorothy Zack Hanle the basics covered—panel [long-time editor] at Bon Appetit. “The up-to-the-minute direc- London looks festive for a royal guests, etc. tory of home and office addresses and phone numbers will be in- wedding during the Dames recent cluded in duplicate—one for your office and one for your home,” • Use press contacts to visit. Photo: Susan Slack. advised Carol. coordinate PR before Teamwork: Carol made an entry that Beverly Barbour-Soules was the event—perhaps an committee chair for the Showcase for Women Chefs formal dinner interview with a panellist, at Le Cordon Bleu. Using a at the Waldorf Astoria; Leslie Revson was in charge of food; Har- which could generate extra Facebook Live feed, we reached riet Lembeck, the wine. “In a Salute to Women Restaurateurs, a interest. a far greater audience. formal dinner was presented at the Gilded Age Harkness Pavillion So, here are our top tips for • The ticket price on these with an investiture of 11 new members. Food preparation was from staging a panel discussion. events is not high so, in member restaurants, Le Coup de Fusil and Barbetta [Laura Maio- order to net much revenue, glio • Make sure you have ]. Pirouetting ballerinas served bread sticks from a basket.” make sure you’re not pay- The Lunch Bunch: Suzanne Pierot Le Coup enough lead time to secure chaired a luncheon at ing for the participants, de Fusil Marina de Brantes your panel, and reach out , the restaurant of Countess , sister-in- the venue, or refreshments. to your potential audience, law of France's former President Valéry Giscard d’Estaing. Suzanne especially if your date is a • Use members’ resources to also hosted a quiche luncheon at her home. Guests toured the popular one like IWD. try and secure these. We wine cellar and previewed the new kitchen, which was to appear in were lucky this year in that Architectural Digest. • Use key members to reach Le Cordon Bleu reached A Feast: Carol added a memo about a special event to give Dames potential “star” panellists. out to us first, and we were the opportunity to chat with four food super stars: “Joseph Donon, We are lucky to have a able to bring them on the most famous, private chef in America [and the last student of member who curates these board as a co-sponsor. August Escoffier], Paul Bocuse, Ann Willan [La Varenne], and kinds of discussions and Simone “Simca” Beck—all pleased to accept the invitation.” public interviews regularly; • Work with a third-party Champagne and Liqueurs: “At one of our pop-up, op-ed breakfasts, we couldn’t do it without charity, or like-minded Dames met with Max Cointreau during a visit to the U.S. to discuss her. nonprofit as a beneficiary the professional development of women in the Cointreau family.” of the funds raised. This • Find a “star” modera- Constitution and By-Laws: “With great insight, Saralie Slonsky way, you can tap into their tor who will add to your guided a committee that spent months and months putting it network and goodwill. publicity—and audience together.” The number of regular members was to be limited to 100 We worked with a Breast attendance—even if your Dames and when five chapters formed, Les Dames d’Escoffier Inter- Cancer Charity in 2018. guest panellists are lesser national would be organized. known. • Allow time at the event for Chapter Growth: Carol meticulously recorded, “New chapters came pre-discussion network- when Helene Bennett moved to Washington, D.C. She was… LD- • Panellists with a book to ing. A glass of wine and a NY’s Vice President, and then co-founder of Washington, D.C. The promote and sell are more few nibbles are essential if second chapter took off and had a smashing fundraiser—a memorial likely to donate their time. you are hosting an evening for Ann Crutchner, D.C’s first president, with Ronald Reagan and Involve a book seller/store event. Ms. Kirkpatrick as honorary co-chairs. Chicago, chapter three, has al- who can handle sales. ways distinguished itself with its fund-raising activities and the largess They might be persuaded • Use social media to of their scholarship program. Chicago has a way of getting corporate to donate a portion of the promote. This almost goes support and made the most of it with their professional savvy. Claire proceeds. without saying, but if Boasi, another New York Dame with organizational ability accepted your chapter has a Twitter • Build an email list of a food position in Philadelphia and started chapter four with former account, use it! Submit “friends” who are likely New York Dame Julie Dannenbaum. Dolores Snyder founded the to as many online media to show up. Use your Dallas Chapter, number five, which won special acclaim by funding calendars as possible; most Eventbrite buyers lists and a university wine library. San Francisco joined in…then Seattle came print newspapers have PayPal lists to build your onboard…And next British Columbia, first contacted when Zack one. Reach out to active database, although in the Hanle was expansion chairman of international, making our name bloggers in your chapter or UK the rules regarding legitimate. Welcome to our first International Chapter.” Jean Voltz community. was the first international president. Elayne Kleeman planned the first international Board meeting in New York. In May, the London Chapter hosted their third Edible In a 1979 letter to the membership, Carol wrote, “Les Dames is London adventure, which included Scotland and the now out of its swaddling clothes. We have proved ourselves. What Cotswolds. Look for my review of the wildly successful seven years ago was a dream is a reality.” LDNY’s second President Sylvia Shur—creator of Clamato® and Cran-Apple™ juice—added, fundraiser in the fall Quarterly —Editor. “We cannot fail!” Read “The First Five Years,” Part 1 and Part 2 for background information.

SUMMER QUARTERLY 2018 21 CHAPTER PROGRAMS Nina Mukerjee Furstenau (St. Louis) ANN ARBOR | ATLANTA | AUSTIN | BIRMINGHAM | BOSTON | BRITISH COLUMBIA | CHARLESTON | CHARLOTTE & THE WESTERN CAROLINAS CHICAGO | CLEVELAND | COLORADO | DALLAS | GREATER DES MOINES | HAWAII | HOUSTON | KANSAS CITY | KENTUCKY | LONDON LOS ANGELES/ORANGE COUNTY | MEXICO | MIAMI | MINNESOTA | MONTEREY BAY | NASHVILLE | NEW ORLEANS | NEW ENGLAND | NEW YORK PALM SPRINGS | PHILADELPHIA | PHOENIX | PORTLAND | SACRAMENTO | SAN ANTONIO | SAN DIEGO SAN FRANCISCO | SEATTLE | SOUTH FLORIDA | ST. LOUIS | WASHINGTON, D.C.

culinary students. The thoughtful discussion centered on “Recipes ATLANTA Natasha Cary from Life—Why Our Culinary Heritage Matters” and was moder- Our April event took place at the Atlanta Wine School’s Vino ated by Hayley Matson-Mathes and Jo McGarry Curran. Venue, founded by Michael Bryan, and consists of a restaurant, wine bar, event facility, wine and cooking school, retail emporium, and culinary/wine tour travel company under one roof. Dame Le- lia Bryan, helped organize the event showcasing four tapas paired with wines. On May 5, we hosted Derby de Mayo—think mint juleps made with tequila, bourbon-laced horchata, spicy brown , and dainty cucumber-cilantro tea —in conjunction with the Southeastern Designer Showhouse and Gardens event sponsored by the Atlanta Homes & Lifestyles magazine. Atlanta Dames offered a full day of revelry and presentations to the 5,000-plus attendees expected at this year’s Showhouse. On May 6, Stacy Zeigler, Amy Crowell and Judith Winfrey co-hosted Dames Who Play in the Kitchen, a Dames-only Giving Kitchen Supper Club event. The Giving Kitchen, a nonprofit providing emergency assistance to res- taurant workers through financial support and a network of com- munity resources, was established by Atlanta Chef Ryan Hidinger and Jen Hidinger. Giving Kitchen has helped over 1,000 restaurant Hawaii Panel Discussion, Front: Ed Kenney, Vivian Howard, Lee Anne Wong. Back: Jo McGarry Curran, Hayley Matson-Mathes. workers in crisis with over $1.6 million.

BIRMINGHAMMartha Johnston The first annual Birmingham “Favorite Things” party in February on the top floor of the John Hand Club gave us the opportunity to take in the beauty of the Magic City. Dames had unparalleled views of Sloss Furnace and the Vulcan statue, the new Elyton Hotel and points beyond. After enjoying a glass or two of wine, Dames took their seats for the real fun. Guests brought three of their favorite things priced under $10. We took turns presenting our items and then drew names for each to select what they’d like to take home. It was so enjoyable to see what everyone brought and learn something new about our fellow members! Our members met and visited with potential new members at events in February and March. At the first event, a history and Gia McCol- Hawaii Dames enjoy a pizza video of the Birmingham Chapter were presented and party. L-R: Kathi Saks (holding lister, vice president for membership, introduced those interested pizza), Kristin Jackson (back), in being part of the group. Kathy Mezrano hosted the second Maria Tucker, Cheryl To, Holly event at The Gardens Café by Kathy G. All enjoyed the wonderful Hadsell el Hajji, Kay Tokunga, food and beverages as well as visiting with guests and sister Dames. Hayley Matson-Mathes, Dianne In early April, Birmingham Dames gathered with homemade Vicheinrut, Teresa Adams Tomka dishes and rosé from Provence to discuss N.M. Kelby’s White (wearing a lei), and Jocelyn Truffles in Winter—historical fiction about Auguste Escoffier. Dis- Passanisi McCann. Teresa is a cussion included Escoffier and his contributions to the food world, Dame visiting from Des Moines, the women who founded our organization, and the various roles of Iowa. LDEI President Hayley Matson-Mathes attended the women in Escoffier’s day. Consular Corps Inaugural Ball as a guest of the Honorable HAWAII Kusuma Cooray. As Sri Lanka’s former honorary Consul in Hawaii, A successful fundraiser, “Roots Run Deep” was held March 18, Kusuma was awarded the “Distinguished Public Service Award,”—the 2018, at Mari's Gardens to benefit the chapter’s, Dames Who highest award a civilian can receive from the office of the Chairman of the Joint Chiefs of Staff (CJCS). Donate Scholarship Fund. Chef Vivian Howard (North Caro- lina)—2017 James Beard Award winner for Outstanding Personal- ity/Host for her popular PBS show “A Chef’s Life,” was joined by NASHVILLE Melissa Corbin and Tasha Kennard local Chef Ed Kenney, who hosts his own Emmy Award winning The Nashville Dames welcomed Grande Dame Joan Nathan to PBS show, “Family Ingredients.” The grazing-style culinary event lunch on November 14, 2017, at Cafe Margot in historic East was luau-themed with kalua pig prepared by Ed in a traditional Nashville. Margot McCormack whipped up a 3-course, vegetarian imu. Taro, a local favorite, was prepared by Vivian with a Southern feast from Joan’s latest cookbook, King Solomon’s Table. Cakebread twist. Some of the handpicked menu items came from her critically Cellars—LDEI’s sponsoring partner—offered wine pairings to acclaimed cookbook, Deep Run Roots. more than 60 guests. “It’s not a new thing. It’s an old thing we must At the Surfjack Hotel & Swimclub the following evening, Chefs discover,” the Grande Dame said of slow food. Margot shared stories Vivian, Ed, and Lee Anne Wong were part of a Hawaii Chapter of how we’ve become a “grab and go” culture and what to do to resist panel discussion, which was shared with community members and

22 Les Dames d’Escoffier International this notion. In King Solomon’s Table, readers PHILADELPHIANatanya Dibona The Philadelphia Chapter kept busy this winter! In March we orga- explore foodways revered nized three different events and collaborated with six different women’s in Jewish culture, all the organizations honoring Women’s History Month. The first event March while celebrating what 6 was “Culinary Conversations: A Salon Dinner at Pub & Kitchen,” with Alice Waters says is “the the Philadelphia Women’s Culinary Guild. Chef Melissa McGrath of Pub diversity and unexpected & Kitchen planned and prepared the meal alongside Chef Ana Caballero commonalities of these (Fork) and Chef Jin Chua (a.kitchen) using products sourced from female- foods from around owned businesses. Dessert was from Tova du Plessis (Essen Bakery), the world.” Nashville a recent James Beard semi-finalist for Outstanding Baker. Participants Dames raised more than discussed topics related to women in the food industry. $2,700 during this one- Next, we collaborated with three other women's groups to attend a play day event. The money in March and host a reception with women at the helm of the Philadel- will be used to further phia Theatre Company. Nashville’s Opportu- nity NOW initiative which employs at-risk youth during summer internships at $2,500 per intern. Last year, the Nashville Dames were able to employ three in- terns with proceeds from their inaugural fund- raiser, Tour de Farm, and are on target to employ four for the 2018 season. To learn more about the event with Joan Nathan, visit www.lesdamesnash- ville.org. Read more about the signature Tour de Farm event on page 16. In March, more than 40 Dames and guests gath- ered at Tansuo with Chef Maneet Chauhan for a night of dumplings, , and cocktails. Chef Maneet and her team offered hands-on dumpling-making dem- onstrations and shared Grand Dame Joan Nathan and Margot McCor- tips and tricks. Proceeds mack. The Main Course—Chickpea Panisse with from the event benefitted Roasted Fennel, Onion, Rosemary, Olives, Swiss the Les Dames Nashville Chard & Marinated Feta. Nashville Dames prepare Scholarship Fund. dumplings at Tansuo.

NEW YORKBeth Allen On National Margarita Day (February 22, 2018), the New York Chapter warmly welcomed approximately 40 Dames from across the country, in town for the 2018 International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP), to a private celebration at La Palapa Cocina Mexicana, owned by NY Dame Barbara Sibley. We toasted our fellow Dames over La Dama Margaritas and snacked on plenty of authentic Antojitos Mexicanos (Mexican ), created by Chef Sibley and professionally served by her friendly La Palapa staff. Antojitos, which comes from antojo and means cravings, are small plates of food either served as snacks or put together to make a whole meal. Light and addictive, and often corn-masa based, they are tastes that satisfy cravings. A few we enjoyed: de Papa con Salsa de Chile de Árbol (crisped potato tacos) and Dobladitas de Masa (fresh masa ). A signature cocktail—La Dama Margarita—was created for the occasion. Made with Milagro Tequila Reposado, hibiscus syrup, and candied flowers from Wild Hibiscus Flower Company, lime juice and Combier, it was a festive libation well suited for the gathering. Guests left with a gift bag containing a sample of Wild Hibiscus Flower Concentrate and Raw Honey Crème, along with a recipe card to enjoy making their Philadelphia Salon Dinner, L-R: Jin Chua, Ana Caballero, and Melissa own La Dama Margarita at home. This 2018 LDEI/LDNY/IACP Meet- McGrath. Photo: Janet Chrzan. Philadelphia Dames host the third annual Up-In-Manhattan was produced by Co-Chairs Beth Allen and New York "Women in Food” at the White Dog Café. Dame Ann Karlen (L) and Cathy President Joan Brower and also Ronnie Campbell, Janeen Sarlin, and Lee were among 80 attendees. Photo: Hugh E. Dillion. At White Dog Café, Barbara Sibley. Salud! L-R: Dame Nina Sygnecki, Dame Angie Brown Johnson, Alethia Erwin, and Dame Keri Fisher. Photo: Hugh E. Dillion.

SUMMER QUARTERLY 2018 23 Our third event was “Women Restaurateurs: Reception and Panel dean of the California Culinary Academy, has organized and moder- Discussion” featuring Dames Kathleen Mulhern (The Garden), Angelina ated for Laney College students enrolled in Chef Chantal Martin’s Hos- Branca (Sate Kampar), Terry Berch McNally (London Grill and Paris pitality Careers class. The program was open to the public and the large Wine Bar), Alice Leung (Soy Café), and Valerie Erwin (EAT Café). Joy crowd was treated to samples of Alice's pastries produced by Laney’s Manning (editor, Edible Philly magazine) moderated at the Acorn Club, baking and pastry students. After the program, Oakland bookseller Luan the oldest woman’s club of its kind in America. General manager Jennifer Stauss of Laurel Book Store brought in cookbooks written by Alice Med- Gallagher is a new member of the Philadelphia Chapter. rich and Linda Carucci, as well as books about careers in the hospitality Events also included a book signing and tasting at Fante’s Kitchenware industry written by sister Dames across the U.S. Book sales were brisk Shop with vegan chef, Fran Costigan; a dine-around at EAT Café, Phila- and Laurel Book Store generously donated a percentage of profits back delphia’s only pay-what-you-can- restaurant; and a Sunday brunch at The to the Laney College Culinary Arts and Baking program. Good King Tavern with Chef Tanya Holland (San Francisco), who was participating in the Philly Chef Conference. Les Dames Philadelphia was a SOUTH FLORIDA Irene Moore proud sponsor of this incredible conference for the third year. In November 2017 at the Miami Book Fair at Miami Dade College, Irene Moore interviewed Grande Dame Lidia Bastianich (New York) and SAN DIEGO Kari Volyn Nancie McDermott (North Carolina) about their new cookbooks. The San Diego Chapter supported the launch of a cookbook compiled by On December 3, 2017, our chapter held a successful Paris Flea Market, Leah’s Pantry in cooperation with the San Diego American Indian Health chaired by Robyn Webb at the Miami Shores Farmer’s Market. It was a Center (SDAIHC). It was an honor to present the health center a check takeoff of the famous “Paris Flea,” a second-hand brocante. Claire Tomlin, from our chapter for a new, indigenous garden. Read more about this owner of The Market Company, donated the space. worthy project in San Diego’s Global Culinary Postcard on page 30. On January 13, Dames held a Master Chef Dinner with Jodi Swank at On March 16, San Diego Dames were the guests of “Kitchens for Good” Swank Farms in Loxahatchee, prepared by James Beard Award-winning tenth graduation. What a moving event it was! Graduates described how Chef Michael Schwartz. The dinner was chaired by Diane Campion and the culinary program changed their lives from disastrous to hopeful and Sommelier Mariya Kovacheva, who worked with Chef Michael on wine beyond. Most of the graduates have already secured jobs. The students in pairings for the fabulous five-course dinner. class 11 prepared and served a lovely luncheon. Kitchens For Good is a Carole Kotkin hosted a lunch honoring Ann Stratte (Washington, 2017 LDEISD grant recipient. D.C.) on February 6 at the state-of-the-art Cooking School in Carysfort On April 10, the San Diego Chapter held a “Member Spotlight" ” Kitchen at the Ocean Reef Club in Key Largo. appetizer potluck to highlight the many accomplished and fascinating Dames celebrated Valentine’s Day at Total Wine in South Beach with women in our chapter at the home of Kari Volyn. We learned more about handmade chocolate desserts paired with wines and ports presented by our members and their businesses so we could become better friends and Total Wine expert Chris Torres. Lola Van Aken and her husband, Justin, supporters of each other as true “sister Dames.” We also welcomed several prospective new members.

Lunch with Ann Stratte at the Ocean Reef Club. Valentines Day desserts included Fairytale Brownies from Dame Eileen Spitainy San Diego Dames at a cookbook launch: L-R, Front: Adrienne Markworth, (San Francisco). President Marie Kelley. Back: Teresa Palzkill, Geri Sander, Vickie Mogilner.

SAN FRANCISCO Linda Carucci San Francisco Chapter Dames Alice Medrich and Dominica Rice- Cisneros were enthusiastically received by students and chef-instructors alike when they served as panelists for the Culinary Arts Panel of Professionals on March 14 at Laney College in Oakland. A prolific and award-winning cookbook author, Alice is credited with introducing the chocolate truffle to the United States through her now-shuttered Cocolat shops. Dominica is the chef/owner of the critically acclaimed Cosecha restaurant in downtown Oakland. Both panelists shared invaluable ad- vice and insights about how to be successful in the hospitality industry. This is the second such panel discussion that Linda Carucci, former

24 Les Dames d’Escoffier International spoke about the history and culture of chocolate, and Ana and Francisco Moreno of Pacari Chocolates spoke about chocolate’s cacao levels and cooking with chocolate. On March 13, a James Beard House Dinner in New York, “Aegean Secrets,” featured South Florida Chefs Paulette Bilsky and Patty Ruiz, as well as Los Angeles Chef Chris- tina Xenos and New York Chocolatier Joan Coukos who cooked alongside Greek chef Argiro Barbarigou of Papadakis restaurant in Athens with her team of chefs. L-R: Patty Ruize, Irene Moore, Argiro Barbarigou, and Paulette Blisky at James Beard House.

New York Dames Explore Sicilian Cuisine

By Bonnie Tandy Leblang (New York) For five decades respected restaurateur Tony May has been working to elevate the image of Italian cuisine in America. Along with his daughter Marisa May, they are on a crusade to promote a better understanding of Italian cuisine and its local products through a culinary education of the next generation of cooking professionals. The two of them accompanied six Dames to experience Sicilian cooking first hand at May-Mei cooking school—a project of the Italian Culinary Foundation—launched this year. The program, geared toward professionals, provides hands-on cooking classes, trips to local producers and markets, and home-style and haute establishment dining for total immersion into the traditions of the Italian table. During the first day at the cooking school, the Dames learned the authentic details of prepar- ing caponata, citrus marmalade, and an herbed pesto for the baby sardines purchased that morning in the market from Sicilian Celebrity Chef Instructor Peppe Giuffrè.

In chefs jackets ready to cook, L-R: Dames Janeen Sarlin, Susan Westmoreland, Bonnie Tandy Leblang, Marisa May (in white), Ellen Woods, Patricia McCann, and Joann Makovitzky…. plus friends. L-R: Dames Patricia McCann, Ellen Woods, Bonnie Tandy Leblang, Marisa May and Tony May (middle), Janeen Sarlin, Susan Westmoreland, Joann Makovitzky, and friends.

SUMMER QUARTERLY 2018 25 MEMBER MILESTONES Dottie Koteski (Philadelphia)

BIRMINGHAM edition of The Bourbon Tasting Notebook, show is nationally broadcast out of San Maureen Holt was named general man- featuring 340 bourbons, which she co- Diego with a 16.5 million market. ager/chef for Carlile’s BBQ, founded in authored with Micheal Veach. In March, 1945. Formerly in fine dining, Maureen is she spoke at bourbon festivals in New Kim Solano, owner of The Haute excited to be on the pitmaster journey and Orleans and Oxford, Mississippi. Restaurant and Gallery in bringing a more contemporary look to the Moss Landing was featured in a segment menu while keeping favorites like smoked LONDON of “Around Monterey With Samantha beef brisket and the Baggett Burger. www. Valentina Harris, Italian culinary author- Brown” a very popular television show, CarlilesBBQ.com ity and cookbook author, has launched watched around the country and by Valentina Selection, which initially will residents of Monterey, California. www. CHARLESTON offer around 200 products from small ar- hauteenchilada.com Nathalie Dupree, the tisan Italian producers. The shopping site leading authority on is an opportunity for Valentina to share NASHVILLE Southern cooking, some of Italy’s most delicious things to eat Cara Graham was was inducted on April and drink with her fan base, students, and nominated by the 28 into the South friends. www.gstaff.it/vs/ Nashville Business Carolina Academy of Journal for Women in Authors—the state’s LOS ANGELES/ORANGE COUNTY Business, Influencer of literary hall of fame. Nathalie Dupree Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken, the Year, community Founded in 1986, the Academy seeks to co-chefs/co-owners of the Border Grill support category. Cara identify and recognize South Carolina’s restaurant and enterprises received the was nominated for Cara Graham distinguished writers and to promote the Los Angeles Times Gold Award as part of the award for her reading and rediscovery of their works. Food Bowl at the May 2018 month-long commitment to serving her community, festival of food, dining and sustainability. encouraging others to do the same, and Katherine Frank- The annual award is given to a California nurturing the belief that kindness makes a stone’s Molasses chef who honors culinary excellence and difference. Spice Cookies from has expanded and promoted Southern her company, Grey California cooking. www.marysueandsu- Tasha Kennard, Ghost Bakery, recently san.com executive director, won a 2018 Silver Nashville Farmers’ softi™ Award in the Market was recog- Cookie Category nized by the Nashville from the Specialty Katherine Frankstone Post as a retail industry Food Association. leader for the publica- Softi™ Awards are like the “Oscars of the tion's 2018 In Charge food world.” Katherine admits this is her recognition. Tasha Tasha Kennard favorite cookie. assumed the charge to improve operations and stabilize the Michelle Weaver, renowned executive market in January 2014 and has made chef of the Charleston Grill, was bestowed significant improvements in operations, the title of South Carolina Chef Ambas- leasing practices, programming, environ- sador for 2018, an initiative started by Photo (left to right) Mary Sue Milliken and mental impact, and facility. former Governor Nikki Haley. She is one Susan Feniger of four chefs from across the state selected NEW ENGLAND to promote South Carolina’s culinary MONTEREY BAY Johanna Bohoy, owner of Bohoy Design heritage and local food culture. Susie Brusa was named Businesswoman and Lightcaught, exhibited her food of the Year by the Salinas Valley Chamber paintings in April at the exhibit A la Carte CLEVELAND of Commerce at the awards luncheon Art in Manchester-by-the-Sea, Mas- Bev Shafferhas taken on the role of Al- on February 22nd for work as executive sachusetts. The Boston Neighborhood zheimer's Association Ambassador to U.S. director of Rancho Cielo Youth Campus, Network, the Boston Voyager, and Boston Rep. Jim Renacci, who represents Ohio’s home of Drummond Culinary Academy, City Paper interviewed her. Johanna is a 16th congressional district. She was in which provides expert training for at-risk member of the Massachusetts Specialty D.C. in June attending the Alzheimer’s young people so they can find employ- Food Association and produces their Impact Movement Advocacy Forum and ment in the hospitality and culinary newsletter. on Capitol Hill raising awareness and industries. www.ranchocieloyc.org requesting funding for research for this PHILADELPHIA public health crisis. https://www.alz.org/ Mary Chamberlin was a featured guest Linda Lipsky, owner forum on the “Flavors with Greg and Marleen” of Linda Lipsky Res- radio show on KSCO (1080 AM). She taurant Consultants, KENTUCKY discussed the fourth printing of her Inc., was interviewed Susan Reigler, author and executive cookbook, The Traveling Soup Pot, which by BBC Worldwide bourbon steward in Louisville celebrated contains new soup recipes and includes to discuss the factors the release in April 2018 of the second wine pairings by Eleni Papadakis. The that help folks to Linda Lipsky

26 Les Dames d’Escoffier International succeed when opening a restaurant. The BBC Hill neighborhood in 2018. interview was based on a course she taught www.macrinabakery.com at Temple University, as well as the personal experiences of restaurant owners around the Holly Smith, owner of Cafe Juanita in cle world. Kirkland, Washington, and Renee Erikson, Cir ck http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p00xtky9 chef and co-owner of Boat Street Kitchen & o Bistro, were nominated for the 2018 James r B SAN DIEGO Beard Awards, in the outstanding chef Maria Gomez-Laurens, category. www.cafejuanita.com L past LDEI president, www.boatstreetcafe.com D received the President’s EI Club award for the second Deba Wegner was hired by the Snoqualmie time from HelmsBriscoe. Valley Preservation Alliance as Taste of the The President’s Club Valley fundraiser event chair. The Alliance award is presented to top is a 501c(6), which works to preserve family Brock Circle producers in the field of farms. Many farmers supply nearby Seattle/ conference negotiations, Maria Gomez-Laurens Eastside restaurants and retail locations. The meeting procurement event is one of the largest farm-to-table din- Update and site selections. Maria has been in the hos- ners in the region. pitality industry for twenty-eight years. www. By Stacy Zeigler HelmsBriscoe.com SOUTH FLORIDA (Atlanta) Paulette Bilsky and SEATTLE Patty Ruiz participated Thank you to Hayley Nicole Aloni, playwright, coach, and “re- in “Aegean Secrets” a Matson-Mathes, Sharon tentionist” premiered her work, “Le Grand James Beard House din- Olson, Ann Stratte, and Fromage,” at Seattle’s West of Lenin Theatre ner in New York. They Patricia Erd for joining me from May 31 to June 15. It is billed as: “One and several Los Angeles on the Brock Circle Over- woman’s tumultuous life in the kitchen— and New York Chapter Paulette Bilsky sight Committee. It is our job from Paris to the Academy Awards and back/” Dames cooked along- to make recommendations side Greek celebrity chef that put these funds to good Kathy Casey opened her Argiro Barbarigou of new concept at Seattle Papadakis restaurant in use. We have been meeting Tacoma International Air- Athens, Greece, and her monthly to vet different ideas, port at the end of March. team of award-winning and our primary focus now is Rel ‘Lish Burger Lounge Greek chefs. to design a virtual leadership serves great burgers and program for our membership. other items in B Terminal. Shari Gherman cel- We are awaiting the results of Rel ‘Lish joins the already ebrated an important Patty Ruiz the Communications Survey, operating Dish d’ Lish, Kathy Casey milestone on March 26 which had some questions market fresh to-go foods when she held an American Fine Wine Com- about our previous webinars, and a new chowder-focused concept opening petition Awards party in Napa, California, to make sure we are moving later this year. where 65 winemakers joined her, including in the right direction. Sommelier to the Stars Chris Sawyer who was Naomi Kakiuchi, sushi expert and Asian one of the AFWC judges. For those that still aren’t cuisine specialist, was the guest chef on the sure what The Brock Circle is, Holland American Ship—Amsterdam’s Grand WASHINGTON, D.C. its purpose is to ensure the Pacific and Far East Voyage in February of Maria Kopsidas, owner fiscal health of the organiza- this year. www.nuculinary.com of Cookology Culinary tion, both now and going School in Sterling, Vir- forward, for strategic needs Alison Leber, founder of Roving Cheese ginia, will open its second and to enable conference en- Shop, provides a never- location in Arlington hancement, all aligned with ending selection to cheese at the newly renovated the mission of LDEI. lovers. On April 2, she Ballston Quarter Mall. It Our Brock Circle goal is 100 teamed up with her prior includes five commercial members, pledging $1000 Brie & Bordeaux Res- kitchens offering recre- Maria Kopsidas taurant crew, Chef Scott ational classes for adults a year for 10 years totaling Samuel and Karin Collins, and kids, an incubator kitchen, and a 12- to $1,000,000. If you would for a seasonal supper club. 24-week a professional culinary program. like to be our 52nd member, Stories about farmers, Alison Leber please contact me at Stacy foragers, bakers, chee- Sophia Maroon won the “2018 Good Food Zeigler, szeigler1949@yahoo. semakers, and winemakers were shared and Award—Pantry” for her Dress It Up brand of com. paired with specific local cheeses. Sesame Tahini Dressing. The awards cer- emony was held January 19 at a gala in the Leslie Mackie, owner of Macrina Bakery & historic San Francisco War Memorial in San Cafe, a Seattle institution, is opening yet an- Francisco, California. other bakery/café location in Seattle’s Capitol

SUMMER QUARTERLY 2018 27 Leadership in Action is a new Quarterly column focused on good business practices for chapters and leadership development for Dames. Experienced Dame leaders and other experts will provide how-to content, practical advice, fresh ideas, tools, and resources. Consider this forum your own personal leadership coach! Special thanks to LDEI Past President Toria Emas for writing the inaugural article on chapter management of a 501(c)(3). As a bottom-up organization, LDEI’s strength comes from its 40 chapters; investing in leadership development will bring high returns.—Susan Fuller Slack, Editor.

LEADERSHIP IN ACTION By Toria Emas (Chicago)

KEEPING IT LEGAL: What Chapters Must Know About Managing a 501(c)(3)

A chapter leader needs to understand the with the filing that includes the names of the Board members should know the chapter’s nonprofit environment that affects chapter chapter officers. exemption status. Exemption on the federal management. LDEI is recognized as a 501(c) Part of LDEI’s mission is education. Chapters level does not automatically exclude a chapter (3) organization. Each local chapter must should maintain an outward focus. To retain from paying state sales tax. A chapter must apply for its own designation or if outside the 501(c)(3) status, meetings should be open submit an application to the state to avoid the U.S. follow their specific national laws. to the public. LDEI is an invitation-only orga- paying sales taxes. Each chapter needs to raise funds to sup- nization, but it is not a secret society. Holding The board should have a board orientation port its mission, cover expenses, and secure open meetings builds the chapter’s brand and and a manual to help govern the chapter. This the solvency of the chapter. The beauty of creates an audience that can be used to market manual should include: a 501(c)(3) designation is that it allows the annual fundraisers and symposiums. 1. The mission chapter to raise money from the public to Retention of the 501(c)(3) designation further its causes. Currently, tax deductions requires duty of care, obedience, loyalty, and 2. The incorporation document are allowed for charitable donations above a conflict of interest policy. Treat LDEI as you 3. Bylaws the market value of any items received from would your own business, and act in good the charity. Donors must be provided with faith putting the chapter’s goals ahead of any 4. Procedures receipts for donations over $250. It is good personal agenda. Board members are required 5. Roster of the Board and Committee practice to provide all donors with thank you to be informed, use good judgment, and in- Chairs acknowledgements for any and all donations. vestigate issues before voting. Non-attendance 6. A calendar of events The thank you note generates goodwill even at board meetings does not excuse a board for the smallest donations. History has proven member from liability, and proxies are not an 7. Past minutes or a link to the website with that often those small donors become the life- option. Some states such as California have the documents line of the organization and can be converted a more narrow definition of what negligence 8. Directors and Officers Liability Insurance to legacy donors. As a rule, chapters should means. Be aware of your individual state’s donate about 5 percent of their proceeds from liability laws. Keep corporate minutes and fol- 9. Annual Conflict of Interest Statement fundraisers each year. low the advice of an attorney. (completed by officers and committee Each chapter must submit a financial state- Use an accountant and have the accountant chairs) ment to the IRS annually and depending advise your chapter on Unrelated Taxable 10. Long range plan upon its gross receipts conduct an audit. Business Income (UBI). There are several Above all else, confer with an attorney or Annually, the chapter needs to file with the helpful websites to assist your chapter: Na- accountant when in doubt. Be prudent— state governing body that oversees charitable tional Association of Charity Officials www. free advice can be subjective and can lead to organizations. Often this is the state Secretary nasconet.org and the IRS site “Stay Exempt” delays in a conflict resolution. of State. There is a nominal fee associated www.stayexempt.irs.gov.

28 Les Dames d’Escoffier International LDEI Riviana 1/4 page MECH_Layout 1 10/6/17 3:02 PM Page 1

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SUMMER QUARTERLY 2018 29 GLOBAL San Diego Chapter Supports Health CULINARY postcard Initiatives for Native American Youth

By Marie Kelley (San Diego) to improve food security, As part of our Global Culinary Initiative to provide culturally relevant honor North America's Native cuisines, the health support, and increase San Diego Chapter and Leah’s the opportunities of clients to Pantry support the San Diego connect with their native roots. When the American Indian Health Cen- San Diego Dames attended the cookbook ter (SDAIHC) as it launches launch, they presented SDAIHC with “seed” a cookbook, “Young, Indig- money. The new garden is an opportunity to enous, and Healthy: Recipes Global Culinary engage youth and adult clients, and to share inspired by Today’s Native Initiative the harvest with the broader community via Youth.” Young Native Ameri- monthly community events. cans helped create the cookbook, which was A potluck buffet dinner was primarily developed and published by Leah’s Pantry and prepared and served by the tribal youth. They its director Adrienne Markworth with food commented on their experience and pride of styling by Marie Kelley. The mission of the working on the cookbook—how it brought community health center is to promote excel- them together as “family” and the healthy im- lence in health care with respect to custom pact it had on their diets. After dinner, young and tradition. and old danced to the drums of the elders! SDAIHC maintains a conventional garden, We are honored to support the food which is being expanded to include indig- traditions and heritage of North America's enous crops. It is an extension of the work indigenous people, and the native cultures in Southern California.

This compilation of healthy, low- cost recipes was inspired by dishes from traditional Native American cuisine. Salmon with Roasted Fennel and Citrus. Three Sister’s Succotash. Photos: Jessica Silldorff.

30 Les Dames d’Escoffier International So What, Exactly, is an Affinity SUBMISSION GUIDELINES DEADLINES Program? FALL ISSUE – AUGUST 1, 2018 | WINTER ISSUE – NOVEMBER 4, 2018 SPRING ISSUE – JANUARY 10, 2019 | SUMMER ISSUE – APRIL 12, 2019 By Bev Shaffer (Ohio) Second VP, LDEI MEMBER MILESTONES membermilestones@aol. com Email to Member Milestone Editor, Dottie Koteski by the deadline listed above. Affinity programs are business partner- Include: ships in which a company offers special • CHAPTER rates or services to our members. If you • DAME’S NAME haven’t as yet taken advantage of these • Maximum 50 words for each Dame about personal honors or accomplish- specials, let me entice you. ments, but not about new product introductions or other promotions. How does our Members Only Affinity Please include a website URL, if applicable. Press releases and cookbook Program help you as a Dame? Let’s say on covers are NOT accepted. your “must do” list is: PHOTO: You may email a high resolution quality headshot to accompany your • Take wine certification classes. news (see below). You must submit a photo permissions form for the photo. Note: Due to space constraints, only two Member Milestones will be pub- • Flour it up and take some baking lished per Dame per year. classes. • Replace your glassware with those CHAPTER PROGRAMS [email protected] original French tumblers you covet. Email up to 250 words about chapter events that have already occurred to Chapter News Editor, Nina Mukerjee Furstenau by the deadline listed above. • Those wood cutting boards. Cracked Include: and in need of replacement? • CHAPTER • Definitely need some Japanese • SUBMITTER’S NAME cutlery! • Maximum 250 words for each chapter. • Captions for all photos submitted. • Wouldn’t that new color, Provence, Submissions that exceed 250 words will be edited to comply. in a French oven look lovely in your Press releases are not accepted. We regret we don’t have space to print full kitchen? menus but menu items can be included in the copy. • A “Just for Girls” gathering coming Note: “Chapter Programs” and “Member Milestones” may be dispersed up? Need decadent chocolate treats through LDEI social-media channels, as well as in print and online. and world-class wines to wash it all down! PHOTOGRAPHY/IMAGES • Wait—those girls love my cheese • Electronic images must be properly focused and in color plates with unique honeys and a big with a minimum resolution of 300 dpi (TIFF or JPEG). seafood platter; sustainable coffee • Cell phone photos are acceptable if they meet requirements. • Do not send photos taken off the Internet or embedded will finish it all off nicely! with text in Word files or PDF files. • Attend Taste of Atlanta and eat. • Include photo credits, if required. drink.do. • A photo permissions form must be submitted. • Need a new business brochure with • A maximum of three photos can be submitted per chapter. food photography? • ALL PHOTOGRAPHS MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY CAPTIONS OR THEY WILL NOT BE PUBLISHED. • What about much-needed media training? LDEI regrets that we cannot include lengthy profiles of individual Dames due to space limitations. Dames’ accomplishments should be submitted to “Mem- • Order new chefs coats embroidered ber Milestones” or to LDEI’s Closed Group on Facebook at https://www. with the LDEI logo. facebook.com/groups/218435184886471/ Your LDEI Members Only Affinity Program can assist you with discounts E-NEWS (Not for the Quarterly) This bimonthly email newsletter and special offers on each of these “must reports upcoming events in other chapters. Include title, date, time, do” items and more! Imagine—checking cost, a one-sentence description, and an email contact for your your list AND saving money, too! chapter’s events. Send E-News to the editor: Diane Wheeler, at Accessing your discounts is easy. Go to [email protected] or [email protected]. “Member Login” on the www.ldei.org home page. Once logged in, you will see UPCOMING in the a drop down menu near the top for “Af- summer issue finity Programs.” Use this to access each • Grande Dame Winner category and save, save, save! • M.F.K. Fisher Awards Winners • Edible London, Scotland, and Cotswolds Reports

SUMMER QUARTERLY 2018 31 PRESORTED Ann Arbor Mexico FIRST CLASS Atlanta Miami U S POSTAGE Austin Minnesota PAID Birmingham Monterey Bay LOUISVILLE KY Boston Nashville P.O. Box 4961 PERMIT #1051 British Columbia New Orleans Louisville, KY 40204 Charleston New England Charlotte & the New York Western Carolinas North Carolina Chicago Palm Springs Cleveland Philadelphia Colorado Phoenix Dallas Portland Greater Des Moines Sacramento Hawaii San Antonio Houston San Diego Kansas City San Francisco Kentucky Seattle London South Florida Los Angeles/ St. Louis Orange County Washington, D.C.

Of the 40+ dishes (not counting breakfast!) The Yucatán’s we ate on the "Flavors of Mexico" Yucatán tour, we enjoyed the light and lovely Sopa Lovely de Lima (Lime Soup) three times: at Sotuta de Peon, a henequen plantation where we Sopa de Lima saw twine and rope made from agave cactus’ lance-shaped leaves; the Hacienda Ochil where we cooked with Las Mujeres Mayas; and at Las Terrazas del Olimpio over- looking the Plaza Grande with the lovely mayor of Merida, María Dolores Fritz. Columbus brought lime Global Culinary seeds to Latin America on Initiative his second voyage and chicken came variously to South America with the Polynesians and to Mexico with the Dutch and Portuguese, so it seems logical that Sopa de Lima is the precur- sor to the modern Texas Tortilla Soup. Every region of Mexico has its own variation, but the Mayan version was made with a very flavorful chicken broth that was poured over the soup ingredients at table or at plating and garnished with a thick slice of fresh lime and tortilla strips. This is different from the heartier Texas Tortilla Soup where all the soup ingredients are cooked and served from one pot, adding the tortilla strips (and even better, chunks of avocado!) when serving it.—By CiCi William- son (Washington, D.C.) Sopa de Lima. Photo: Hayley Matson-Mathes. Dames Eleonora García, Rocio Mejia, Hayley Matson-Mathes, Araceli Ramos; Mayor of Me- rida, Yucatán, María Dolores Fritz; Dames Maria Gomez-Laurens, Carol Brock, Tony Gamez; Caro- lina Cardenas Sosa, Merida Director of Tourism. Mayan woman plates Sopa de Lima. Dames enjoy the Sopa de Lima at Sotuta de Peon henequen plantation. Photos: Oscar Velazquez