TRANQUIL TREKS II

in Medway

Price: £1 where sold The Countryside Code

G Be safe - plan ahead and follow any signs. G Leave gates and property as you find them. G Protect plants and animals, and take your litter home . G Keep dogs under close control. G Consider other people.

WALKING is one of the easiest and most accessible forms of activity and simply walking for 30 minutes at least five times a week can: G Improve your mood G Reduce stress G Strengthen your bones G Reduce your blood pressure G Improve heart and lung efficiency G Strengthen and tone leg muscles G Assist with weight loss

Medway Boundary 1 Grain Foreshore 5 Halling Marshes 9 Meresborough Motorway Railway 2 Great Chattenden Wood 6 Bridgewood 10 Motney Hill Urban Area 3 Watts Meadow 7 Dargets Wood 0 1 2 3km Scale 4 Kent Downs 8 East Hoath Wood

2 Foreword

It’s now been two years since the publication of the enormously popular original Tranquil Treks booklet. We were therefore delighted to be asked to introduce this second volume of walks through the hidden areas of Medway. As before, its intention is to raise the public’s awareness of those rich and diverse spaces that still exist, providing both a haven for wildlife and for those seeking to escape from our increasingly hectic surrounding world. All the writers are Council Officers, keen to share their knowledge and enthusiasm for these places in the hope that you will be inspired to follow in their footsteps, certainly something that we intend to do.

Councillor Phil Filmer Portfolio Holder, Frontline Taskforce Councillor Howard Doe Portfolio Holder Community Services

3 The walk is accessed from the car park situated at the the church, with its mysterious stone figure just inside 1 end of the High St, just past St James Church, where the porch, Coastguard Cottages and The Hogarth Inn. the path leads down to the sea wall. Standing on the sea wall looking out to sea, Grain Grain Village was mainly built up in the you are immediately aware of the large open expanse 1950’s and 70’s as a result of the since demolished BP presented at this confluence of the two major river Foreshore Oil Refinery (employing some 6000 staff at its peak), estuaries, with the Thames to the left or north and the together with the North Sea Gas Storage Installation and Medway to the south. The Peninsula also bears much by Richard the Grain Power Station which still dominate the immediate evidence of the damaging effect of the tidal waters and area. In fact the top of the Power Station’s chimney can previous beach groynes are still visible further out on Thompson be seen from virtually anywhere along this walk. the mudflats at low tide. A few of its earlier buildings do still exist, including To the north you can see Southend on Sea, whose pier is the longest in the country. Along the coast to your right is Shoeburyness, where the unmistakeable sounds from its Military practice ranges can sometimes be heard. Heading southwards you can see the abundant bird life attracted to the mudflats, including Oystercatchers, Redshank and Grey Plovers. The rich coastal grassland adjacent also has numerous wildflowers including the nationally scarce Sea Clover. It is not surprising therefore that the area is protected as a Site of Special Scientific Interest. The path then turns the corner, bringing into view the mouth of the Medway and the Isle of Sheppey. To the left of Sheerness docks at the river’s mouth is Garrison Point. Its name provides evidence of the area’s strategic position and its role in the protection of both Chatham and Sheerness Dockyards from invasion. Grain’s fortifications were twofold; the Fort built in the 1860’s and demolished some time ago, leaving only its defensive ditch and the Battery Tower. Constructed in 1855 and used up until 1946, which can still be seen standing guard in the estuary.

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My walk through Chattenden Woods started from Hilton Dickensian scene, possibly a cliché but true. 2 Road, where I parked my car and enjoyed the view When entering the woods via the bridleway across North Kent into central London. From here between houses, it’s not really possible to realise the Great Canary wharf and the famous ‘gherkin’ building wood’s true size and nature. This is a wood where it is designed by Sir Norman Foster, could clearly be seen. possible to experience tranquillity, rural views, not see Chattenden From this height and distance, the shortening effect on any houses and to immerse one’s self in the countryside. the foreground compressed the industrial riverside Mature oaks, heavy in dark late summer leaf, shaded Wood landscape into the quintessential 21st century the immature ash and Norway Maple. The tannin in the oak leaves giving an almost heavy feeling to the by Martin Hall atmosphere rather like being underwater in a deep green sea. Using the main bridleway as an easy way to explore the wood, I was joined by Gatekeeper butterflies and Meadow Browns and Speckle Woods. These butterflies were making the most of the last of the day’s sunshine and were enjoying the warm air and nectar rich flowers. The woodland itself seemed very dry and its clay floor was heavily cracked and dusty. Even the plants seemed brittle and likely to snap when touched. However, the clay surface holds the rain in winter, which causes ponding. As a result I could see marshland plants, such as the pendulous sedge, along with soft rushes mapping the wet areas. Above a lone dragonfly flew past, as if searching out the ponds as suitable places for laying eggs. These woodlands have been well managed, for both timber and wildlife. Large areas of woodland under storey have been coppiced, leaving maturing oaks to grow on to full size. A visit in the spring would see these worked areas alive with birds, butterflies and flowers. I followed, as best I could, my tracks back to the car and once again paused for a moment to enjoy the long distance glimpse into Central London, though of course glad to be here in Cliffe Woods.

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Watts Meadow Nature Reserve is a beautiful little allotments and these continued to be used right up to 3 haven in the heart of Rochester, between Ethelbert the late 1970s when they gradually became less popular. Road and Priestfields with pleasant walks and hidey- After the allotments fell into disuse it gradually went Watts holes for children to play in and totally cut off from back to couch grass, which during the summer was very everyday traffic noise, a real bonus! attractive as it looked like silk blowing in the wind. Meadow This piece of land has had a varied history over The land returned to a more natural state with a the last 70 years. There was a farm on the land variety of trees such as hawthorn, elderberry, alder and by Vivienne Kent between the two world wars with cattle being grazed sycamore becoming established. About this time, the there. The land was then transferred to the local council, residents raised concerns regarding the protection of to ensure that it remained as an open space for the the area and a collective tree preservation order was people of Rochester. put on much of the woodland, which has allowed the During the Second World War there was a “dig for trees to mature, turning it into beautiful natural area victory” drive and some of the land was allocated for with pleasant walks throughout. During the 1970s when my children were growing up, cows were still grazing on the Foord Almshouses land adjacent to Watts Meadow, but these disappeared about the time that Abbots Close was built. Also about this time, Rochester Council took over part of the land off Priestfields for a Nursery to grow shrubs and flowers for the Council garden displays and once a year they were open so that members of the public were able to buy them. Now that the area is fully wooded, it supports a variety of wildlife such as foxes, squirrels, green wood - peckers and kestrels with smaller mammals like voles, shrews and lizards, it’s also a marvellous source for blackberries in the summer! There is also the Rochester City Lawn Tennis Club in the middle of the area which supplies a little “Wimbledon” in the summer months. Watts Meadow is a valuable, even necessary source of leisure in a very urbanised area and it has the advantage of being easily accessible by foot for a large number of residents.

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We took this four mile walk on a beautiful day in June. saw the scar of a quarry, which had been abandoned 4 From the A228 we took the trackway to St. Michael’s after the local geology proved unsuitable. Church. Into the churchyard and passing through a We climbed over a stile and crossed the valley, Kent small gate, a short distance brought us to a metal five- which in June, was waist high in barley and oats, still bar gate. Going straight up Church Hill (watching out green, and enchantingly decorated with poppies, cow Downs for the cow pats!), we entered the wood and continued parsley and common mallow. along a tranquil woodland path, flanked alternatively by Into North Woods, with its richer variety of trees, coppiced and mature trees, passing a parish boundary and out again. We paused to admire the great expanse Area of stone on the left. of varied countryside and could make out the chimney When the path dipped slightly, we turned right, tops of Upper Bush Farm and the brick railway bridge of Outstanding joining the North Downs Way, down some steps and the London line. The footpath then led us toward Upper descended back on ourselves for a few yards, before Bush and was well worth a small detour by being Natural leaving the wood and entering Dean Valley. There we rewarded with a stroll around the tiny and delightfully pretty hamlet. It was hard to imagine that in the nine - Beauty teenth century this was once a thriving hamlet, with over twenty houses. by Sue Returning, we turned left and climbed the slight hill, with young woodland on our left, planted some Waldegrave 35 – 40 years ago to shield the quarry passed earlier. A short dip and a further rise took us back into mature woodland and to a crossroads. Turning left, we retraced our steps to the top of Church Hill, pausing to admire the magnificent views across the river, taking in Nashenden Valley, Wouldham, Burham and beyond. For us, the most rewarding part of a local walk, especially one taken for the first time, is in gaining high ground and having a bird’s eye view of a familiar landscape from a completely new aspect. Going downhill, towards Cuxton, we finished our enjoyable walk by visiting St. Michael’s church, an extremely fine example, which occupies an ancient site and is unusually aligned on a South West axis, rather than the usual East West.

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A visit to the Halling marshes offers the walker close to this spot behind the railway station in 1912. 5 panoramic views of the North Downs and in contrast, During the building of the electricity pylons on the the buildings and chalk quarries of both the past and marshes, a dug out canoe was also found by workmen. Halling present cement industry. There is a theory that this canoe belonged to the Follow the footpath along Marsh Road towards Halling Man who had been drowned in an accident, the Marshes the river. The path soon opens up to reveal the wide, canoe was then washed down river and buried in the open landscape of Halling common and the salt marsh. silting up of the marshes. by Andy Piper From here the river is not visible and it almost seems as Beyond the gate follow Marsh Road down to the if you can walk to the village of Wouldham over on its river. The view back towards Halling is one of contrasts. eastern bank. With cattle grazing the common in the foreground and The remains of the earliest known inhabitant of the towering chimney of the cement factory at New Halling (‘Halling Man’) from about 2000 BC were found Town in the distance, it is difficult to imagine a time when this rural setting was not dominated and indeed kept alive by the cement industry. In the summer months look out for the pale pink flowers of Marsh Mallow, abundant on the surrounding Salt marsh and valued for its healing properties. Take a moment also to sit on the river’s edge, one of the many peaceful spots in the Medway Valley where the busy M2 bridge and the Medway towns are still close by, but remain hidden from view due to either convenient topography or a bend in the river. Turning right at the river will take you to Halling Common with its views across to Wouldham marshes. I continued on this path to the Church of St. John the Baptist and the remains of the Bishop’s Palace. All that is remains of the Palace, built in 1077 by Bishop Gundulph, is an impressive stone wall. I was intrigued by the historical importance of a building, which has stood here for nearly a 1000 years and now lies hidden from the road by grand Elm trees and is I suspect, largely unknown by residents outside of Halling.

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For a person that does not always take advantage of Though for anyone wishing to do the same, it should be 6 the small treasures in Medway (though strictly speaking noted that the path has very little lighting and being some of the walk lies outside of our boundary), I was fearless is not everyone’s cup of tea. really quite surprised by this green oasis. The directions The walk was reminiscent in many ways of the Bridgewood to the walk were relatively easy for a person that walks I used to take as a kid. As you enter onto the sometimes has no sense of direction. path you came to an open area surrounded by small by Marsha Gayle I took the walk early one summer evening, which I trees and shrubs, with a steep bank on the far right side thought was a good time, free from the heat of the day. where kids were playing with their bikes. Walking along further, I noticed a pine tree amongst all the area’s other more common trees such as Beech and Sycamore, strange but a nice change. Another clearing, then further on into denser wood, I liked this part a lot as it reminded me just how amazing nature can be. On the left hand side I could see Ivy adorning the trees, which seemed to belong more to the walls of a haunted house or some creaky old stately home than a piece of urban woodland. The surprising thing to me about the walk is that the path runs between housing on either side. Some residents had their back fence gates opening out to the wood, obviously I thought making use of the wood an attractive extension to their gardens. The area also seemed to be very popular with dog walkers, offering a good excuse to take advantage of cool evening air. If you want to unwind after a day at work, this is a very pleasant way to while away an hour or so walking at a leisurely pace, or perhaps even as an after dinner walk, something not too taxing, but just enough to satisfy. It would also be a good place for those people that are not great walkers to get some gentle exercise. Anyway would I do it again? Definitely, but maybe next time I should volunteer to walk a friends dog.

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I’ve been using Dargets Wood as my route to and from though people have been living in the area for thousands 7 Walderslade Village for about the last 25 years and of years. Evidence of these early citizens of Medway have seen many changes. It has to be said that the appears every now and then and finds have included noise of the traffic in the valley below has certainly flint axes and several early Bronze Age bracelets, now Dargets Wood increased and may lead some to question its inclusion kept in the British Museum. The name itself is of Anglo in this book. Its exclusion would be a shame though, Saxon origin and means ‘Wood by the deer gate’ by Mark Loos as this type of landscape is fast disappearing and still unfortunately the deer have long gone. The grassland offers walkers the opportunity to experience something just outside of the woods as you climb away from the of what it must have been like, before the large housing village, offers superb views of the surrounding landscape. estates that now dominate the area. Boxley Road can be seen snaking its way along the Much of the surrounding landscape remained valley floor towards Princes Avenue, where ‘The essentially rural right up until the early twentieth century, Homestead’ Walderslade’s oldest house still stands. Once part of Walderslade Manor, it was also used as a ‘safe house’ for monks during the reign of Henry VIII, following his dissolution of the monastries. In amongst the different grasses, can be found meadow flowers such as Field Scabious, Harebell and Knapweed and around the edge, shrubs like Guelder Rose, Wayfaring Tree and Blackthorn. This thorny bush provides excellent bird cover and produces wonderful berries in the autumn known as ‘Sloes’ which are used to make Sloe Gin. The wood itself is a mixture of deciduous trees such as Sycamore and Silver Birch with majestic Beech trees towering above. A common sight on Britain’s chalk downlands, these wonderful trees are now in danger of disappearing as a result of Global Warming. In amongst the trees you can often stumble upon a small camp, a sign that children still enjoy playing here despite the sometimes-negative media images associated with such activities. In fact increasing medical research has shown that we can all benefit, both mentally and physically from spending time in woodlands.

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East Hoath Wood is a remnant of the ancient woodland Situated off Hoath Way, where there are 2 access 8 that once stretched across the whole of Medway. Like points into the wood, with another situated in Durham much woodland in Kent, it suffered significant damage Road, where it meets with Springvale. The access East Hoath in the great storm of 1987. Today, it is the perfect points are wide enough to get a buggy through as well location for exploring with children or walking the dog, as a bicycle making it the ideal location for a tranquil Wood though of course neither are essential. family walk or a scenic cycle ride. It is also very suitable There were various attempts throughout the for the less mobile, as there are no deep variances in by Karen Tamsett 1980’s to develop the wood, but a planning enquiry the various paths levels. ruled that they should be preserved. The wood has been As you enter the woods from any of the access designated a Site of Nature Conservation Interest (SNCI) points, the circular route around the woods is apparent, by the Kent Wildlife Trust and is protected by Tree with stony paths leading the way. The woods are full of Preservation Orders (TPOs). sweet chestnut and oak coppice providing plenty of shade on a hot summer’s afternoon. As you make your way further into the woods you will eventually come across a large clearing situated in the centre where some coppicing work has recently been undertaken. This is an ancient practice where trees and shrubs are cut down to ground level to provide wood whilst allowing essential regrowth. This also benefits woodland plants as it allows light through to the ground. It is also of course, the perfect spot to sit down, rest and take in the natural scenery. Thrushes, Finches and Woodpeckers are just some of the birds that frequent these woods and have done so for many years. Squirrels dash from one tree to the next, often pausing nearby enabling you the opportunity to observe them in their natural habitat. Throughout Springtime, the wood is filled with an abundance of beautiful Blubells and Wood Anenomes which seem to carpet the ground. I would suggest therefore, that this is also the perfect location if you are a keen landscape artist or photographer, as it offers a wonderful array of colours, animal and plant life to survey and inspire.

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The start of this walk is at a hidden section of the gradually reclaiming them back into the earth. 9 original Mierscourt Road, now bypassed to form a small At the field’s end, we follow a narrow lane for a cul de sac. In front of us stand two cottages with pretty short way down hill into the hamlet of Meresborough, a Meresborough colourful gardens, which are a cheery welcome. The very quiet, peaceful collection of houses, with a school leafy track beside them leads to a gate, around which tucked into the junction at the end of the lane. by Sarah Davis the walker is invited to continue into a field that Crossing the road, the footpath continues through stretches out into the distance. another gate, with a sheep filled orchard one side and The path skirts the edge of the crop, a barrier of area of garden on the other side. We continue down Poplars and Leylandii forming a windbreak between the through overgrown plum and cherry orchards, where old Orchards that could be seen through the gaps and clouds of Meadow Brown butterflies surround the the arable field that the path crosses. Here and there in walker, and Finches flit amongst the trees. the hedgerow can be seen abandoned fruit crates, with The next section of walk is through open country, Old Mans Beard weaving its way through them, though one is made to feel slightly corralled by the paddock fencing that closely edges the track. Field Fares enjoy the open ground, and woodpeckers swoop between the isolated areas of wood. All around us stands Ragwort, with its yellow daisy like flowers smothered in black and orange Cinnabar Moth caterpillars. Unfortunately it is also a highly toxic plant if eaten and the managers of the land were in evidence clearing it from the surrounding paddocks. Beyond the paddocks, the walk again returns to forgotten orchards before the sight of huge fruit trees that where once common throughout Kent. On this occasion they’re heavily laden with amazing deep red cherries. The abundance of ladders, movement in amongst the dense trees, wood smoke and the intermittent popping of bird scarers are a clear indication that harvesting is in progress. From here, you can either continue down to Moor Street and return using Mierscourt Road or simply use the route already taken. Happy with our surroundings, we decided to return back the way we came.

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This area can be breathtaking, quite literally, given its building blocks left abandoned on the landscape, are 10 proximity to the sewerage works and especially when curiously not out of place. Two 19th century low lying there is a north easterly wind blowing hard into your circular forts, built with the intention of protecting Motney Hill face. Though to avoid the area as a result, would be to Chatham Dockyard from invasion, stand peacefully on miss out on a stunning and interesting part of Medway the shores of islands in the middle of the estuary. by Jo Davis where binoculars are not just useful but essential. There is always activity on the river, Yachts and This is truly an area of big skies, as the extensive dinghies from the local sailing clubs tack and jibe view stretches far across the water to the low lands of around the islands, while huge heavily laden container the Hoo peninsular and beyond. At this point of the ships move up river to the docks. Look out also for the tidal estuary they are broken only by the Power Stations Terracotta sailed barges that were once the mainstay of whose industrial shapes, looking rather like giant freight traffic on the river and still race once a year. Occasionally the blast of a chime whistle heralds the passing of the Kingswear Castle Paddle Steamer, its passengers viewing the estuary from a different angle. The arable fields that once reached right down to the shoreline have been left to rest, creating a natural habitat for many wild creatures. The ‘beach’ mostly consists of flint and chalk, where the eagle eyed can pick up the remains of tools left by Neolithic man, remnants of the area’s ancient and extensive industrial past. Low tide reveals shallow islands rising out of the mud of the river bed, where Oyster Catchers nest in amongst the low weeds, their high pitched calls constantly in the background, even as night falls. Shell Ducks, Redshanks, Pintails and Lapwings are also frequent visitors in the area, particularly feeding close to shore as the tide goes out. Spring always brings a wealth of bird life to the area, as travellers migrating from north and south pass through, possibly stopping to snack mid journey in these rich feeding grounds. The disintegrating hulk that remains in the inlet provides an unusual habitat for sub marine life, and a useful vantage point for gulls.

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Further information If after reading this booklet you would like more information about Medway’s green and open spaces then please contact Greenspace Services /Frontline Taskforce on (01634) 333333, Minicom (01634) 333111 or email: [email protected]. USEFUL NUMBERS Kent Wildlife Trust 01622 662012 Kent Downs AONB 01622 221522 Public Rights of Way Officer 01634 333333 Cycling/Walking Officer 01634 333333 English Nature 01233 812525 Traveline 08706 082608 All maps in this publication are reproduced/ based upon the Ordnance Survey mapping with the permission of Her Majesty’s Stationery Office © Crown Copyright. Unauthorised reproduction infringes Crown Copyright and may lead to prosecution or civil proceedings. Medway Council 2003

Photography: Mark Loos, except page 4, Richard Thompson Front and Back Cover Illustration: Clifford Harper, Agraphia.uk.com Map Illustrations: Sue Meheux

Disclaimer Whilst every care is taken in compiling this publication, neither Medway Council nor its servants or agents can accept any liability whatsoever for any incorrect statement contained herein, nor any omissiion. G418 Designed by Medway Council Communications Team www.medway.gov.uk/communications