FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009

Amsterdam photography “NY Perspectives” shows images of Amsterdam as seen through the eyes of four New York photographers: Gus Powell, Carl Wooley, Richard Rothman and Joshua Lutz. Foam Fotografiemuseum in De Bazel Building Until Aug. 23 % 31-20-5516-500 www.nyperspectives.com art “The Art of Flying: Bird Pieces by Mel- chior d'Hondecoeter” exhibits paint- ings by Melchior d’Hondecoeter (1636-95). Rijksmuseum— Amsterdam Schiphol May 27-Oct. 26 % 31-20-6747-172 www.rijksmuseum.nl Barcelona music “Estrella Damm Primavera Sound” is an international music festival featur- ing performances by Neil Young, Sonic Youth, Yo La Tengo, Ghostface Killah, Bloc Party and many others. Parc del Forum May 28-30 % 34-93-3010-090 www.primaverasound.es art “The Ideal Beauty—Antoni Solà pre- sents the work of Spanish neo-classi- cal sculptor Antoni Solà (1780-1861). Museu Frederic Marès Until Sept. 27

% 34-93-2563-500 Eric Fischl, Photo: Haydar Koyupinar www.museumares.bcn.cat s ‘Living Room Nr. 3 (spinning),’ from 2002, by Eric Fischl, in Munich; below, shoe by Andrea Pfister, from 1990, in Madrid. Berlin art “Imi Knoebel: Help, help...” is an exhibi- % 49-221-2212-3860 Lausanne by nine American artists who took a (born 1965) and others. tion created by the German abstract www.museenkoeln.de sports stand against mainstream art from Museum Brandhorst artist Imi Knoebel (born 1940), pre- “Heroes” explores the history and ico- the 1960s onward, including William Until May 24 % senting a retrospective of his layered Frankfurt nography of sporting figures in four Copley (1919-96), Peter Saul (born 49-89-2380-5104 1934) and H.C. Westerman (1921-81). www.museum-brandhorst.de art. art periods of history: antiquity, the re- Neue Nationalgalerie birth of the Olympic Games in 1896, Bonnefantenmuseum “Looting and Restitution—Jewish- Until Aug. 16 Paris May 23-Aug. 9 Owned Cultural Artifacts from 1933 to the era after World War I, and today. % 31-43-3290-190 art % 49-30-266-4245-10 the Present” illustrates the historical Olympic Museum www.bonnefanten.nl “One image may hide another: Arcim- www.smb.museum events and consequences of looting Until Sept. 13 boldo-Dalí-Raetz” shows works explor- by Nazis throughout Europe. % 41-21-6216-511 ing embedded or double meanings in Brussels Jewish Museum Frankfurt www.olympic.org/uk/passion/muse Madrid music um/index_uk.asp art works by M.C. Escher (1898-1972), Sal- Until Aug. 8 vador Dali (1904-89) and others. “Brussels Jazz Marathon 2009” fea- “Artaud” presents drawings, notes, sev- % 49-69-212-35000 Galeries nationales du Grand Palais tures about 140 performances by London eral photographs and a selection of www.jewishmuseum.de Until July 6 more than 400 musicians, including design manuscripts alongside films highlight- % 33-1-4013-4800 Jennifer Scavuzzo, Jef Neve & Groove “French Porcelain for English Palaces: ing the acting and screenwriting tal- www.rmn.fr Thing and Phil Robinsson. Hamburg Sèvres from the Royal Collection” ents of the French playwright and Brussels Jazz Marathon art brings together around 300 pieces cre- poet Antonin Artaud (1896-1948). history May 29-31 “Modern Life: Edward Hopper and His ated by the Sèvres factory in France, La Casa Encendida Summer “The Bath and the Mirror” shows toi- % including a set of three vases once Until June 7 32-2-4560-484 Time” displays six major works by let kits from antiquity and the Middle owned by Marie Antoinette. % 34-902-4303-22 www.brusselsjazzmarathon.be American realist artist Edward Hopper Ages, containing powder boxes, per- www.lacasaencendida.es (1882-1967) alongside 65 master- The Queen’s Gallery fume bottles and grooming objects, art pieces by his contemporaries, including May 23-Oct. 11 alongside bath sculptures, painted % “Opening“ is the official opening of a Man Ray (1890-1976) and Georgia 44-20-7766-7300 fashion vases and paintings on wood from new museum dedicated to the Belgian O'Keeffe (1887-1986). www.royalcollection.org.uk “Stiletto Heels—Fascination and Seduc- the 15th century. Surrealist painter René Magritte Bucerius Kunst Forum tion” illustrates the history of stiletto of Picasso Musée National du Moyen Âge (1898-1967). Until Aug. 30 Lyon heels from the initial invention by Until Sept. 21 René Magritte Museum % 49-40-3609-960 opera Christian Dior in 1940 to the present % 33-1-5373-7800 day, with footwear by Prada, Manolo May 30-June 2 www.buceriuskunstforum.de “Death in Venice” is the last opera www.musee-moyenage.fr % 32-2-5086-3211 written by English composer Benjamin Blahnik, Christian Louboutin and Touring the artist’s Provence inspirations, www.musee-magritte-museum.be Britten (1913-76). Conducted by Mar- Jimmy Choo. Zurich Museo del Traje tyn Brabbins and performed by the history Until Aug. 30 Cologne Choir and Orchestra of the Lyon Op- “Rajasthan—King and Warriors” exhib- from local pottery to Cézanne’s mountain % 34-91-550-4700 art era. its 16th-century religious paintings “From Picasso to Warhol—Avant- Opera de Lyon museodeltraje.mcu.es and artifacts from Rajasthan, India. Garde Artists’ Jewelry“ showcases May 24-June 1 Museum Rietberg Park 140 works of jewelry and decorative % 33-826-3053-25 Munich Until Jan. 10, 2010 miniatures by artists such as Alex- www.opera-lyon.com art % 41-44-2063-131 ander Calder (1898-1976) and Max “Opening” introduces the Udo and www.stadt-zuerich.ch Ernst (1891-1976). Maastricht Anette Brandhorst Collection, housing Museum für Angewandte Kunst art works by Cy Twombly (born 1928), Source: ArtBase Global Arts News Ser- Until July 19 Andrea Pfister “Exile on Main St.” shows 200 works Andy Warhol (1928-87), Damien Hirst vice, WSJE research. s Putting tips from a golf master Zen and the art of the tasting menu W16 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 | WEEKEND JOURNAL v Taste 8-9 | Cover story Travel 7 | Design Contents Crafty furniture looks Arab Humor . . . No Joke Lessons from the spring auctions 3 | Art Summer of Picasso By Melik Kaylan thing until the last minute or the seating some 300 people at ta- The Wall Street Journal’s front extended family in the West Bank Touring the artist’s Provence inspirations, venue wouldn’t book you—now bles. Thursday, the final evening, page. He talked about performing and happened to ask, “what 10-11 | & NEW YORK—In the end, what they’re all delighted to have us. offered a selection of the best per- around the Middle East—in Ku- would you do if there was Munich’s new museum from local pottery to Cézanne’s mountain Food Drink mars the Arab-American Comedy But, of course, attitudes have formances. It was on that evening wait, he was told “sir, you may not peace?” Conveying their reaction, Festival is the danger to your changed so much. These days, peo- that breathing between laughs talk about sex, drugs, religion, and his face went dumbstruck. Food as art in Kyoto health: The laughs come so thick ple are more terrified of sneezing seemed impossible, especially dur- no bad language.” He illustrated “Huhhh?” 4 | Film and fast that there’s no chance to Mexicans than Arabs.” ing the stand-up acts, which were his reaction with a frozen grimace. “What would you do?” breathe for minutes at a time. One If Mr. Obeidallah, an affable on the whole superior to the “What the f2 was I supposed to “No, no. We will fight and shows up wondering, will it be an Ken-doll look-alike and the festi- sketches. Mr. Obeidallah ex- talk about?” He went on to praise fight and fight and . . . ” Morgenstern on When Scotch meets ice extended political rant? Will there val’s MC, sounds a mite provoca- plained that while the sketches Arab civilization. “Turns out we Successful as the show is state- be too much phoney applause for tive, he pales in comparison to fe- were new, and thus unpolished, practically invented hygiene: per- side, according to Mr.Obeidallah, ‘Angels & Demons’ bad jokes, endless ethnic booster- male co-founder and fellow the stand-ups offered material fume, soap, deodorant, the tooth- “they love what we do in the Mid- 14 | ism or straining for sympathy, a stand-up comedian Maysoon the comics had practiced over brush . . . what happened?” He dle East.” Though the festival Top Picks long bemoaning of injustices, all Zayid. Also from New Jersey, Ms. many independent occasions. was followed by Joe DeRosa, part- doesn’t travel, many of its stars 5 | Books dressed up as hu- Maysoon has cere- The first stand-up, an Egyptian- Egyptian part-Italian, who had a do, and Mr.Obeidallah has recently Modernist visions of horror mor? Not a bit of it. bral palsy and grinds American named Eman Morgan, coveted half-hour special on Com- performed in Beirut, Cairo and Instead, the audi- ‘Turns out we out her remarks complained that even after 30 edy Central in February. “There’s Amman to audiences of thou- China Miéville’s strange fiction ence gets a splen- practically through gnashing years his father’s English was too much racism against foreign- sands, always in English. “They A new take on Marlowe’s ‘Dido’ did, merciless anat- jaws. “I found my barely comprehensible. “You know ers,” he said. “Foreigners welcome, didn’t have stand-up as a genre un- omy of the Arab- invented husband in Gaza— your English is bad,” he said, I say—come one, come all. Just til we turned up,” he says. “We’re Collecting: Classic crime novels American experi- hygiene: the best place for “when your gardener makes fun don’t smell like your country.” comedy missionaries. They export ence, so unsparingly me. They have no- of you.” He was followed by Ron- Ms. Zayid, subtly swaying with religion; we export comedy back 15 | Taste self-critical that it perfume, soap, where to run.” Both nie Khalil, who has appeared on palsy but wenchy withal, came on at them. They can’t get enough. 6 | Sports goes beyond the po- deodorant . . . producers have nu- Showtime Arabia, a Viacom sub- clothed in a long Arab dress. “My We’re like superstars—they know litically incorrect to merous major show- sidiary in the Arab world, and has father thinks I’m the world’s big- all about us, especially the young, Conversion through comedy a species of comedy what biz credits to their headlined around the Middle East. gest prostitute,” she said, “be- and it’s all through YouTube.” Golf Journal: that often shucks off happened?’ name—Mr. Obeidal- He talked about how Muslim cause I do stand-up comedy in As part of his self-appointed Putting tips from the master all conventions and lah starred in Com- feasts are all about suffering. public.” She went on to add that mission, Mr. Obeidallah teaches 16 | nears pure anarchy. edy Central’s “Axis “Our holiday Ramadan,” he said, she had worked proudly for candi- seminars in stand-up comedy with Time Off This is a notable achievement of Evil” show and took it all over “is 30 days of self-deprivation. date Obama’s election. “They told colleagues, sometimes selecting considering the political freight the the Mideast. Ms. Zayid has ap- There’s a reason why the Grinch me, ‘we were looking for a black one or two local wannabes to in- On cover, Pablo Picasso in Cannes in 1956. (Photo: Getty Images) Our arts and culture calendar festival implicitly carries. Last peared in several movies—as have never stole Ramadan.” lesbian in a wheelchair but we clude in the night’s show. “We’re week’s was the sixth annual event: many of the 50 or so performers. Mr. Obeidallah came back on found you. You’re perfect.’” For missionaries both ways,” he says. WSJ.com this time at Comix, a club in Man- The third producer, Walid Zouaiter, and chatted away, saying that it this reporter, the evening hit its “We like teaching Americans about hattan. The producers had of Lebanese extraction, has just was great to see all the chain peak with Aron Kader, a Palestin- Arabs through comedy. In the early dreamed up the idea in response to acted in a George Clooney film. stores opening up in the Middle ian-Mormon Gary Cooper looka- days, reporters would cover us and post-9/11 pressures on the Arab- The festival week began with a East—except for one. He noticed like. “Any Palestinian-Mormons in you’d get headlines like, ‘Arab Com- A smoky aroma Too much Gore? An artist collects American community. “In 2003,” series of shows devoted to that Target was absent. He intro- the audience?” he asked, sighing edy: Oxmoron?’ We’re converting Editor Spring wine tasting events A new television show finds Chinese contemporary star Craig Winneker says Dean Obeidallah, the co- sketches written specifically for duced Ahmed Ahmed, an Egyptian- knowingly at the ensuing silence. people, one laugh at a time.” Barbara Tina Fuhr Deputy editor founder, a 30-something from New this year, and then, midweek, born, California-raised comic who He went on to relate, with bril- Art director that feature barbecuing comedy in the pitfalls Ai Weiwei on his life-long hunt Fahire Kurt Jersey of Italian-Arab parents, shifted to stand-up comedy only— has appeared on “Roseanne” and liant impersonations of Arab el- Mr. Kaylan writes about culture Assistant art director Kathleen Van Den Broeck “you couldn’t mention the Arab all performed in a packed club “The View” and was profiled on ders, how he was sitting with his and the arts for the Journal. in the great outdoors. of a sustainable lifestyle. for ancient artifacts. Matthew Kaminski Taste page editor WSJ.com/LIfestyle WSJ.com/LIfestyle WSJ.com/Asia Questions or comments? Write to [email protected]. Please include your full name and address. Masterpiece / By Jeremy Hildreth 7 Before the Trees Disappeared THE JOURNAL CROSSWORD / Edited by Mike Shenk 68 Broadway revival of 2009 8 Org. that included the 58 Milo in moves 92 City near Milan 69 “Arabian Nights” bird New York Cosmos 60 Wheel thing 93 Market VIPs 9 Chanel fragrance for men Across 23 Doesn’t bother 33 Tamino in “The 55 Violinist’s stroke 70 Emmy winner Alan 62 Rackets 95 Ones with drawing EASTER ISLAND, South Pacific— from the single quarry where the year 500, and after several gen- trees; fires; El Niño-induced ing stillborn in the quarry. Cap- 10 Do painstaking research power 1 Grating to return the Magic Flute,” e.g. indicated by a “V” 71 Works on getting some 64 Struts That you can now fly here in five they all were carved to their erations the population was suffi- droughts; salt spray; and human tain Cook, arriving in 1774, de- football players introduced 11 Blows away 6 Like Ponzi turpentine, 34 Equally speedy 56 Skyrocket 65 Newspaper from 98 “Zero chance!” hours, several days a week from erect positions—mostly dotted cient to get into the labor-inten- consumption of wood. scribed the islanders as “small, to each other? 12 O’Brien is replacing him 1912 to 1991 schemers’ say? 38 Bodice shaper 57 Prefix meaning 100 Student from College Santiago, Chile, belies the truth around the coastal perimeter sive monument business. Polyne- Mr. Rapu, who was also gover- lean, timid and miserable.” Euro- 79 “Camptown Races” bit 13 Envelope abbreviation pockets? 26 Bring down 40 Roughly “blood vessel” 66 Fruit-flavored Station, Texas that Easter Island is the most iso- with their backs to the sea—up to sians were carvers anyway; here nor of the island for six years, pean diseases arrived soon after, 80 “___ been had!” 14 Throng Coca-Cola brand 11 Following 27 Dwells 43 Feet-sliding 59 Half of dodici 101 Awaken harshly lated of inhabited places on Earth. 12 miles away? Several theories they had the perfect volcanic rock says that the deforestation was killing more people, and slave 67 Late period 14 Witchy women 28 Is immortalized ballroom dance 60 Disco ___ of 81 Words with premium or 15 With all one’s might 102 New Jersey’s ___ Park The nearest neighbor, Pitcairn— have been demonstrated as feasi- for it and little else to occupy their undoubtedly a mixture of human raids in 1862-63 carried off 1,500 loss 71 When tripled, 18 Pamplona pals like Franklin 45 Dips fingers into “The Simpsons” 16 Gadget 103 Pittsburgh of the Ruhr where the Bounty mutineers set- ble, including dragging the stat- time. So statue building became and natural forces. By the time Rapa Nui—half the remaining 82 Person of interest? a WWII film 20 Saw Roosevelt? snuff or salt? 61 Shrewd 17 Head out west? 104 LBJ’s veep tled—with a population of 48 peo- ues on wooden sleds. “There are the central activity of Easter’s soci- Dutch Admiral Jacob Roggeveen population—to the Peruvian 84 River with a sturgeon 72 Noise from fans ple, is 1,240 miles to the west. lots of ways they could have been ety. Unsurprisingly, the maximum 21 In need of a towel 30 Gung-ho 52 Go sour 63 Is tied up by 19 Under 105 Unifying theme spotted the island on Easter Sun- guano mines. A handful managed population 73 Baseless Significantly, it is this preternat- moved,” says Sergio day in 1722 (there’s one to struggle home a few years 22 Gloss over 32 Fixed 53 Removes “the Man in Black” 24 Alpha rhythm readout, 107 Ashen 85 Intended for short 74 Bearing ural lonesomeness that suggests Rapu, the only born Eas- secret revealed for later—and brought the plague 109 Cereal pkg. abbr. It’s Not the Economy 88 It may have an apron 25 Hare care specialist 75 Absorbs the loss the answers to two of archaeolo- ter Islander who is also you), he found no trees with them. By 1872 there were / by Cathy Allis 90 Football’s Cappelletti 29 On 76 Great Seal feature 110 Bleacher feature gy’s greatest riddles: the giant and a trained archaeologist. taller than 10 feet. just 111 people on the island. 12345 67891011121314151617 91 Runs a nudist colony? 31 Basketry material 77 1996 Madonna movie 111 Curvy molding eerie stone carvings for which the “‘How was it actually The major obvious Today, the 3,800 residents in 34 Beginning for boy or girl 78 Precept 112 Heal, as broken bones island is renowned, and the ecolog- done?’ is the question.” fallout from Easter’s de- Rapa Nui are citizens of Chile, the 18 19 20 21 22 94 Lofty 96 Peak southeast of Olympus 35 Tried for a hit 79 Do some soundtrack 114 Rose’s love ical disaster that caused a 99% pop- Oral history claims forestation was diminu- islanders having accepted Chilean work 23 24 25 26 97 Goal of some seeders 36 Counterfeit 115 Dollywood loc. ulation decline and made Easter that the statues walked, tion of the food supply. annexation in 1888. It’s been for ___ 83 Used public 116 Brotherhood since Island a poster child for the fate and Mr. Rapu believes he Birds were hunted to the most part a happy relation- 27 28 29 99 Bring into being 37 In (stewing) transportation 1868 many believe awaits the whole of has found examples of 100 Ready for robbery, maybe 39 Thing, for lawyers extinction; and cannibal- ship. Spanish is the island’s lingua 30 31 32 33 86 Chats with, PC-style 119 Beginning for Cat or humanity if we’re not careful. the “shoes” they wore ism became rife. Jared franca (though Rapa Nui is being 104 Med. provider group 40 Horse-player’s hangout: Abbr. 87 Goat quote cone But first, the heads. for the journey: stones, Diamond, who uses Eas- revived), and you can have a mean 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 106 Namely 41 Sigma preceder 88 Where the buoys are 120 Water temperature Archaeologists have inventoried flat on the topside, used ter as a case study in plate of ceviche con coco while 108 Starts carving some ham? 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 42 ___ Folly 89 Stimulates tester 887 carved figures made between by the islanders to pivot his book “Collapse,” re- you contemplate the fate of the is- 113 Gorge (Alaska nickname) about A.D. 1000 and 1600. These a trussed-up statue back ports that “Your moth- land and its lessons. 52 53 54 55 56 117 They may be fired 44 Brand of note Last Week’s Solution big busts, called moai, are an aver- and forth and forward— er’s flesh sticks in my Due to the massive population 57 58 59 60 61 62 118 Brings a boxing punch 46 Famed former French age of 13 feet tall and are known like moving a refrigera- teeth” became a com- drop-off, vast swaths of cultural under control? restaurant of Manhattan SOPUP DOJO WELSH EROS to islanders as the “living faces.” tor—while synchronizing mon insult. knowledge have been lost forever, 63 64 65 66 67 121 Getaway site 47 Tater ATAR I OVEN ALOHA XENO They represent ancestors and el- their exertions with For the Easter Is- contributing to the sense of insolu- 68 69 70 122 Minute 48 Fashion finish? DORIC ZETA DICERIPPER ders. “For us, they are people,” one chanting. Some experi- landers, there was no bility that surrounds Easter’s puz- 123 Skater Slutskaya 49 Entre ___ DOL AGER TWEAK DNALAB descendent of the natives told me. ments show a convincing escape. “They were zling past. Says Mr. Rapu: “Our eth- 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 124 Sloshed 50 Monsignor’s rel. ALONSO STEED SOLST I CE Perhaps. But for me they are way the moai, if lashed Jeremy Hildreth trapped,” says Mr nography is one of the poorest in MER I TS ERAT RORY EAT 79 80 81 82 83 125 Where British princes prep just ancient and alien statues. upright into a wooden Isolated Easter Island is the site of a monumental achievement. Rapu. In or around 51 Charlemagne’s realm: PROWLERSTOUR NESTS the Pacific. But we still know how 126 Half of 59-Across Abbr. Their meaning isn’t intrinsic at frame, could have 1680, we know, civil to fish. We still know how to track 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 ORB EUEL L OAT JAM 127 Camera setting 54 Containing iron: Pref. REAMERS LAGER MUN I CH all—it is abstract, intense and in- marched themselves along practi- population of 15,000 to 20,000, war broke out. People began tear- the moon for guidance in planting. 91 92 93 94 95 128 Meaning ATBAT WI NOS AEROGRAM terrogative: I want to sit at their cally under their own power, as reached in the 15th or 16th cen- ing down the statues, possibly in We still have some things to call WSJ.com LOYD UGHSOFHOLLY ROLE feet and ask questions. I feel these though hobbling on crutches. In tury, corresponds to the peak of deliberate effrontery to leaders ourselves Rapa Nui.” Above all— 96 97 98 99 Down BRONXZOO TOOLS CESTA guys know something, and I want truth, islanders may have used a moai-making. they believed had failed them. (A and for all of us—they have the 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 1 1984 Leon Uris book, Crossword online EMER I L SHRED STOSSEL to know it too. Gigantic and primi- combination of techniques. Unluckily, the native Rapa Nui 33-foot tall statue named Paro, moai, about which no matter how with “The” For an interactive SAS SUE BG I RL WRY tive, the moai provoke not rever- And why did they make so were living in one of the most dating from about 1620, was one much archaeologists surmise, we 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 2 Russia/China border river LOUSY XERREBELL ION ence or awe but pure wonder, reg- many? Well, why not? Easter Is- fragile ecosystems imaginable: a version of The Wall ARP C I TE LUAU FRANCE of the last erected and one of shall always be left wondering. 117 118 119 120 3 Levitator’s command Street Journal Crossword, TIAMARIA MARNE LIVEIN istered as a definite physical sen- land, in the relative far east of the windy, cool climate, very dry by the last felled.) The year 1838 of- 4 Some NCOs WSJ.com subscribers IGNORE DEANS GMEN IND sation, a kind of cosmic “Huh?” Pacific Ocean, 2,360 miles from tropical standards. Deforestation fers the last European mention Mr. Hildreth (jeremyhildreth.com) 121 122 123 124 5 Maximally corny can go to MADAMEVARY TRUE GAMER Such ethereal queries are ac- South America, was one of the set in almost from the outset, of a standing statue, and in 1868 is a traveler, a writer, and an im- 125 126 127 128 6 Needed renewing WSJ.com/WeekendJournal EM I T PAT I O YENS OBAMA companied by terrestrial ones, very last places to be settled by caused by a combination of fac- every moai on Easter Island was age consultant for companies 7 Driver’s lic. and the like SINS STEER NOSH KENAN such as: How did the moai get Polynesians. People arrived around tors: animals eating the seeds of either toppled in the dirt or rest- and countries.

W2 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 W15 v Top Picks v Art Contemporary stars at Munich’s new museum

By Mariana Schroeder them in an eight-meter-long mir- new focus on contemporary art in Special to The Wall Street Journal rored cabinet. It took six curators a city formerly better known for Munich a full week to place the numbered kitsch and bonhomie than for high UNICH’S NEW Museum tablets of bronze, resin and plas- art. After World War II, only six Brandhorst, which opened ter, in their proper place in the in- contemporary art works had sur- Mthis week in a striking stallation. vived the Nazi purges of Munich’s new building designed by Berlin “Kandor” (2007), by American museums. Now with the Pina- ‘Sickert in Venice’ architects Sauerbruch Hutton— artist Mike Kelly, is a mixed-media kothek der Moderne and the Johan Persson and backed with a Œ120 million installation and one of nine Kelly Brandhorst, the city has two explores an artist’s grant to fund future acquisitions— works in the Brandhorst collec- highly visible palaces devoted to aims to vault this Bavarian city tion. Mr. Kelly was influenced by 20th- and 21st-century art. identity crisis into the contemporary art big the Superman comics of his child- The collection came to Munich London: Walter Sickert leagues. hood and produced a series of under the condition the Bavarian (1860-1942) has a good claim to be- The museum is the new home works named after the fictional government build a separate mu- ing the father of modern British art. of more than 700 works of 20th- capital city of the planet Krypton. seum to house it. The building, A student of Whistler, he was a and 21st-century art collected by Hoses feeding an unnamed gas which cost Œ48 million, features a friend of Degas, knew Manet, and Udo and Anette Brandhorst, who into oversized test tubes fill the stunning façade covered with through his own work transmitted started acquiring art in the 1970s. room with their orange and purple 36,000 ceramic rods attached ver- Impressionism and Post-Impres- Ms. Brandhorst, who died in 1999, glow. Inside, a crystalline city tically and glazed in 23 different Museum Brandhorst s sionism to a younger generation. In- was an heiress to the Henkel con- emerges and an eerie sound fills colors. In addition to their decora- deed, a case can be made that sumer-products fortune; Mr. the gallery. tive function, the rods are de- Munich’s new Museum Brandhorst features important works by Andy Warhol there’s a direct line linking Sickert Brandhorst sits on the board of The museum’s opening puts a signed to absorb street sound. and Cy Twombly; bottom, a painting from Mr. Twombly’s 2001 Lepanto Cycle. with Francis Bacon. The Dulwich Pic- the Zurich-based Agrippina Insur- ture Gallery’s exhibition “Sickert in ance Group. The heart of their col- Venice” shows how and where Sick- lection is an extraordinary group ert found his identity as an artist, in of works by American artist Cy the repeated visits the painter made Twombly, who like his contempo- to the city beginning in 1895. raries Robert Rauschenberg and Anastasia Hille in the title The illustrations and cover in the Jasper Johns, distanced himself role of ‘Dido, Queen of exhibition’s catalog are somehow from Abstract Expressionism and Carthage,’ in London. bright and colorful. Yet the pictures succeeded in ushering in a new themselves are, for the most part, era of American art. The Brand- somber and dark. The exception is horst’s permanent collection in- the 1901 painting, “Santa Maria cludes the most important National Theatre’s della Salute,” in which the red Twombly works outside the U.S., squared-up lines on the panel show including his Lepanto Cycle, now ‘Dido’: a fresh take through the oil paint, conferring a housed in the museum in a gallery on early Marlowe geometrical discipline upon the constructed especially for it. freely rendered image. Similarly, in Mr. Twombly painted the 12 gi- London: Christopher Mar- “The Ghetto, Venice” (1897-98), the gantic canvases of the Lepanto Cy- lowe’s rarely staged first play, repeated rectangular shapes of the cle for the 2001 Venice Biennale. “Dido, Queen of Carthage,” shows six- and seven-story buildings give The series evokes the historic bat- the playwright, spy, atheist and an underlying order to what looks tle in which the troops of Venice self-confessed lover of “tobacco like rapidly made strokes of a paint- and the Holy See destroyed the and boys” at his most provocative. loaded brush. Turkish Fleet at Lepanto in 1571,

The first scene shows Jupiter Sabam But it was not the picturesque changing the balance of power in s “dandling Ganymede upon his views, waterways and buildings of Europe. The new museum also knee”—“ganymede” was Elizabe- ‘Old Lady with Masks’ (1889), by James Ensor, in Antwerp. Venice that stimulated Sickert to re- shows Mr. Twombly’s most recent than slang for a male prostitute. invent himself. Rather, as the sec- works, “Untitled (Roses),” on In James Macdonald’s produc- ond, and better, half of this show show for the first time. The artist tion for the National Theatre’s makes evident, it was in Venice that completed the series of six vi- small Cottesloe auditorium, the Sickert began painting ambiguous brantly colored works last year. opening scene with the gods takes Antwerp’s ‘Goya, Redon, Ensor’ figures in interiors—not so much The collection also includes im- place on a level above the stage, narratives as puzzles, inviting the portant works by Andy Warhol. in Tobias Hoheisel’s minimal set. viewer to work out what he is look- “Brandhorst concentrated on two Costume designer Moritz Junge ing at. The most interesting pic- very prominent artists: Cy dresses Jupiter and Ganymede in shows visionary works of horror tures in this show are the female fig- Twombly and Andy Warhol. They what appeared to me to be bikers’ ures, sometimes paired, of the Vene- cover more than half of the collec- gear, a strange contrast with the Antwerp: In 1886, a Belgian idyllic tapestry designs, com- with a graphic genius that can tian prostitutes La Giuseppina and tion,” says Carla Schulz Hoffman, simple gown worn by Dido, Anasta- exhibition changed the direc- pleted in the 1770s, drew the match Goya’s. He is represented La Carolina. Their postures, and the the acting general director of the sia Hille, who gives a convincing tion of modern art. The occa- attention of Spain’s royal fam- here by the rather un-Goya-like easily read expressions of their Pinakothek and the Museum performance of an otherwise impe- sion was a display of prints, ily. He was made court painter print series “Homage to Goya,” faces, though sometimes feature- Brandhorst. rious woman tortured by her lov- called “Homage to Goya,” by in 1786 and embarked on a se- and by important paintings like less, capture a chilly night of the Among the Warhols are his por- er’s threat to leave her. the French artist Odilon Redon, ries of life-size analytical por- “Silence” (1911), from New soul that will be seen again and traits of Marilyn Monroe, Eliza- Though Marlowe was only 20 attended by Belgium’s most ac- traits, which make up the best- York’s Museum of Modern Art, again in Sickert’s later, better- beth Taylor and Jacqueline years old when this adaptation of complished young painter, known chapter of his career. In which shows a ghostly figure known Camden Town pictures. Kennedy Onassis. There are self- Virgil’s “Aeneid” was first per- James Ensor. After having seen 1792, Goya went deaf after a inside a disembodied eye. —Paul Levy portraits of the artist and late formed, you hear echoes of the the exhibition, Ensor high fever, and he conceived of All roads of this show lead Until June 7 works like his Last Supper and the language of the mature plays, espe- (1860-1949) turned away from a new kind of series—80 vision- to James Ensor, Flanders’s www.dulwichpicturegallery.org.uk famous Camouflage Series along cially in Dido’s speeches. “Dido” is the well-wrought realism of his ary prints of horror and de- greatest painter since Van with two Oxidation Paintings. easier to read than to stage, early years and began to pro- spair that seemed like willful Dyck. Though he produced The Brandhorsts collected art though, and there are moments of duce wildly imaginative works perversions of his colorful tap- graphic works of disturbing vi- methodically, acquiring large num- languor in Mr. Macdonald’s lei- that proved decades ahead of estry cartoons. Known as the tality, Ensor used oil paints to bers of works representing the surely, 2µ-hour production. their time, influencing every- Caprichos, the prints are update the Goya of the Capri- working lives of the artists they This slowness is redeemed, thing from Expressionism to among the first examples of chos. Along the way, he pro- loved. British artist Damien Hirst, though, by the acute respect Surrealism. Now, Antwerp’s modern social criticism in art, gressed from Redon’s graphic whose sculptures and installations shown to the text by his cast, who Royal Museum of Fine Arts has and they lay the groundwork ghostliness to something on are preoccupied with medicine, speak their lines clearly, making placed all three artists along- for the Antwerp show. In the the order of fully rendered mor- death and anatomy, was among the Elizabethan verse as accessi- side each other and created a series’ signature work, “The bidity. With the world’s leading them. In the 2007 installation “In ble as today’s standard Eng- curatorial occasion all its own. Sleep of Reason Produces Mon- collection of Ensor paintings al- This Terrible Moment We Are Vic- lish—no mean feat, as the script is “Goya, Redon, Ensor: Grotesque sters,” a slumbering man seems ready at its disposal, the Royal tims Clinging Helplessly to Our En- jam-packed with classical allu- Paintings and Drawings” has a to be dreaming of bat-like de- Museum has managed to assem- vironment that Refuses to Ac- sions. once-in-a-generation feel, pro- mons, which are like ancient fu- ble other major paintings from knowledge the Soul,” Mr. Hirst cre- Apart from the title role, which viding rare and unforgettable ries, or harbingers of a world around the world. The highlight ated 27,000 life-like pills and set demands a diva, this is ensemble insights into the sustained mo- about to go mad. of the show is the chance to playing of a high order, and ment that gave birth to modern- The rediscovery of Goya’s see key works, like MoMA’s hor- mostly a pleasure to watch, partly ism. grotesque works, which began rifying and hilarious “Masks owing to the movement direction Spanish artist Francisco in Paris a generation after his Confronting Death” (1888), by Steven Hoggett and Imogen Goya (1746-1828) is often con- death, influenced the young Re- brought home to Flanders. Estate of Walter R. Sickert. s Knight, of the troupe Frantic As- sidered the last old master and don (1840-1916), whose prints —J.S. Marcus sembly. the first modern artist. Firmly and drawings investigate the ir- Until June 14 Walter Sickert’s ‘The Women on a —Paul Levy rooted in the 18th century, his rational side of man’s nature www.kmska.be Sofa—Le Tose’ (circa 1903-04), top, Until June 2 and ‘La Giuseppina Against a Map of www.nationaltheatre.org.uk Venice’ (1903), above, in London. Bayerische Staatsgemäldesammlungen s

W14 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 W3 v Film

‘Night’ and day

How the venerable Smithsonian worked with Hollywood on an anarchic kids’ movie ‘Night at the Museum: Battle of the Smithsonian’

From left: Pierfrancesco Favino, When the makers of “Night at the Museum,” a 2006 family adventure Ayelet Zurer, Tom Hanks and David film, approached the American Museum of Natural History in New York Pasquesi in ‘Angels & Demons.’ about working with them, museum officials were ambivalent, partly because some pieces in the movie weren’t in the actual museum. In the Columbia Pictures final film, in which artifacts come alive after dark, the museum went by a slightly different name. “Night” grossed more than half a billion dollars in theaters world-wide—and drove a spike in attendance at the AMNH and other museums. The Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C., didn’t hesitate when producers came calling for a sequel and gave them access to key facilities and holdings for “Night at the Museum: Battle of the Plot’s knots bedevil ‘Angels’ Smithsonian,” released this week. The production paid the Smithsonian $550,000 for title placement, according to someone familiar with the NGELS & DEMONS,” which prominent members of the college and modestly enjoyable—fantasy of agreement. The deal also gave the institution standard location fees and a draws a sharp historical of cardinals have disappeared dur- mutual need. Jennifer Aniston is cut of merchandise sales. —John Jurgensen ‘A distinction between the Il- ing a conclave to elect a new pope. Sue, an ostensibly sophisticated luminati (bad) and the Catholic To find them, and, not incidentally, woman who stops at a motel in King- church’s Preferiti (good), may leave to do something about all that nasty man, Ariz.; she’s a sales rep for a you feeling like a member of the Stu- antimatter, Langdon must find the company that sells bad art to busi- pefiti—utterly benumbed by info ancient lair of the Illuminati by fol- nesses around the country. Steve overload, yet willing to sit there and lowing a trail that is maddeningly Zahn is Mike, a sort of harmless watch the action unfold. And un- elusive and abundantly photogenic. God’s fool who works as the night fold. And unfold. Among the movie’s many revela- manager of the motel—it’s owned Before and after everything else— tions is the fact—I’m taking the fac- by his aging parents—and falls in the pentagram’s meaning, the lofty tuality on faith—that the Vatican li- love with Sue from the moment she pyramid’s significance, the mysteri- brary’s most treasured manuscripts walks in the door. In the real world, ous watermark in English, the ar- are stored in sealed chambers under or somewhere like it, Mike’s subse- a partial vacuum. At certain points quent sexual overtures would put during the screening I attended, his guest in mind of Norman Bates Lincoln Comes Alive Film when the action was interrupted by and send her hurtling out the door. The National Mall, which is a hub for the Smithsonian’s museums, was a JOE MORGENSTERN major eruptions of information, a In the world of this little film, she’s backdrop for computergenerated effects. One of them, a walking, talking sealed chamber under partial vac- sufficiently charmed that she wel- Abraham Lincoln statue, is a comedic device, but director Shawn Levy uum might have described the comes him—warily—into her life, experienced something more solemn during filming. Mr. Levy, a Canadian cane hints from Galileo and Bernini— screening room. With a running and continues to do so even after he who became a U.S. citizen in the same year he shot the film, says, “One of Ron Howard’s movie version of the time of 138 minutes, “Angels & De- becomes a bicoastal stalker. the enduring memories of this whole experience was being in the Lincoln Dan Brown novel is an action thriller, mons” is a serious slog. Still, it’s an As a specialist in space cadets, Memorial at 4 a.m. after we finished filming, completely alone in the although the action far outweighs odd kind of a slog that manages to Mr. Zahn could have played this role silence of the monument and feeling something palpable.” the thrills. Symbology may be a spe- keep you partially engaged, even at with his eyes shut, but he keeps cial stroke for certain folks, but any- its most esoteric or absurd, despite them wide open and fixed on Sue. one can understand a threat to blow an endlessly excitable choir and With her sharp tongue and ironic Earhart’s Flight up the Vatican with a pulsating blob Hans Zimmer’s pitiless score. Tom style, Ms. Aniston could have riffed A daytime scene with Ben Stiller in the National Air and Space Museum of antimatter. It doesn’t even matter Hanks is a companionable presence, on her character’s worldliness, but was filmed at the facility, but action scenes were executed on a Vancouver that it’s anti; just think terrorist plus as always, and he gets to run and the script makes Sue a loner, much sound stage. Famous pieces in the film include a 1903 Wright Flyer and nuclear device and you’ve mastered jump much more often than he did like the inexplicably isolated the red Lockheed Vega flown by Amelia Earhart (played by Amy Adams). all the arcana that counts. in “The Da Vinci Code.” Stellan women often played by Sandra Bul- Margaret Weitekamp, a curator in the division of space history who Though the movie, unlike the Skarsgård is the Swiss Guard’s stern lock, so the actress must throttle visited the set, was impressed by its verisimilitude, down to the real book, is set after the events of “The big cheese, Ewan McGregor is the back. “Management”—that’s how placards describing fake exhibits. But she didn’t save any items for the Da Vinci Code,” rest assured that quick-witted Camerlengo and Mike refers to himself when he museum. “The props were done in fiberglass and wood,” Ms.Weitekamp Tom Hanks’s Robert Langdon isn’t Armin Mueller-Stahl’s gimlet-eyed knocks on Sue’s door—is one of says, “and the museum, of course, has the originals.” being followed around once again cardinal exudes villainy with every those slender fables that have no- by Audrey Tautou, who seemed pain- whispered syllable. where to go after the first half-hour fully at a loss for things to do. This ‘Management’ or so but keep going anyway, in this time Langdon is followed around case into such picaresque absurdi- the Vatican and Rome by an Israeli “Management,” a debut feature ties as Mike’s employment in a Chi- actress, Ayelet Zurer, who plays the by Stephen Belber, is a sentimental— nese restaurant, his skydiving les- Italian scientist Vittoria Vetra; she’s sons and his brief fling at being a seldom at a loss, though the produc- WSJ.com Buddhist monk. tion gains little more from her pres- Woody Harrelson has a small, ence than physicist pulchritude. (A Opening this week in Europe sour role as Jango, an ex-rocker real physicist told me that some of turned organic-yogurt magnate. her colleagues had been hoping the n Adventureland Iceland James Liao has more fun than you’d movie, which depicts superheated n Coraline Iceland, Greece expect in the eventually preposter- Photos: Twentieth Century Fox n Duplicity Finland, Netherlands, Sweden events at CERN’s Large Hadron Col- ous role of Al, the too-hip son of the The Dream Exhibit lider near Geneva, would enhance n Ghosts of Girlfriends Past Denmark, Chinese restaurant’s owners. Fred public understanding of their work. Estonia, Germany, Lithuania, Sweden Ward is Mike’s father, a withdrawn As the characters played by Mr. Stiller and Ms. Adams move through Lots of luck.) n Observe and Report Finland Vietnam vet, and Margo Martindale— galleries, they interact with artworks that become animated. Several “Angels & Demons” was adapted n Race to Witch Mountain Italy she played the poignantly gauche pieces, such as “American Gothic” and the kiss depicted in the photograph “V-J Day, Times Square,” were written into the script’s earliest drafts. But by David Koepp and Akiva Golds- n State of Play Bulgaria, Czech Republic, American tourist in “Paris, je in pre-production, Mr. Shawn Levy added dozens of others “based on my man. In its form, as well as some of Denmark, Estonia, Hungary, Romania t’aime”—is Mike’s mother, who says own tastes and a smattering of art history,” including tutorials from art its substance, the film bears an ee- n The Limits of Control Germany of Sue at one point, “She’s logical, in buff (and comedian) Steve Martin, whom Mr. Levy worked with on recent rie resemblance to “Seven,” the n The Uninvited Germany, Italy, an emotionally annihilating way.” “Pink Panther” movies. Many of the featured works, such as Rodin’s “The David Fincher thriller with Brad Pitt Spain, Turkey The line is too elaborate for the char- Thinker,” are not actually in the Smithsonian. Instead, Mr. Levy made and Morgan Freeman, chasing from n The Wrestler Denmark acter, but then the plot is too sprawl- the ghastly remains of one torture ing for the structure. selections, including a candy-red balloon dog by sculptor Jeff Koons, based Source: IMDB on their dynamic potential and inclusion in “the dream exhibit in my head.” victim to another. By objective mea- WSJ.com subscribers can read reviews of That’s often the way with debut sure, this one adds up to four-sev- these films and others at WSJ.com/FilmReview films: so many notions, so little enths of that one, given that four time.

W4 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 W13 DISTINCTIVE PROPERTIES &ESTATES v Books A (strange) tale of two cities In his new novel, China Miéville aims to connect fantasy to the real world

By Christopher John Farley First editions of ‘The Bonhams HINA MIÉVILLE LIKES when people call Maltese Falcon’ (estimate: $4,000-$6,000) and his work weird. ‘The Thin Man’ (estimate: $800-$1,200). C The 36-year-old British writer is the author of the new novel “The City & The City,” a murder mystery set in two cities, Ul Qoma and Beszel, one rich and one poor, where resi- dents have been trained to “unsee” each other in order to coexist. Watching the An architectural landmark estate on an approximate one-half acre, Mr. Miéville specializes in what he bills as “weird fiction”—fantastic tales that draw on wooded, ocean and coastline view parcel in the charming Woods Cove horror, science fiction and fantasy, but that detective books neighborhood of Laguna Beach, CA. Designed by noted architect, don’t fit comfortably into any of those genres. Mr. Miéville’s 2007 novel for younger readers, EGENDARY SLEUTHS—Arthur Conan J.Herbert Brownell, AIA, this treasured post-and-beam home with its “Un Lun Dun,” set in an alternate version of LDoyle’s Sherlock Holmes, Agatha pool house exemplifies a relaxed style and simplicity. $4,495,000 London, was a New York Times best seller. Christie’s Belgian genius Hercule Poirot or P. “The City & The City,” aimed at adults, has a D. James’s Scotland Yard detective-poet Coldwell Banker Previews International first printing of 35,000 copies. Adam Dalgliesh—will provide investigative The term “weird fiction” has its roots in mystery at London’s coming Antiquarian McAfoose, Bartek & Johnson the work of authors such as H.P.Lovecraft and Book Fair. Many of the 160 or so international www.mcafoose.com (949) 499-8957 Clark Ashton Smith, who wrote for the pulp book dealers gathered at the Olympia exhibi- magazine Weird Tales in the 1920s and 1930s. tion center from June 4-6 will offer crime and The publication was known for featuring spy fiction, one of the most popular areas of short stories about aliens, warriors and mon- the modern first-edition market. sters and other fantastic tales. Today, the Increasingly, crime fiction by major 20th- lines between fantasy, sci-fi and other kinds of fiction are more established. Mr. Miéville says he was drawn to the genre “because it Collecting tends to blur the boundaries.” MARGARET STUDER Born in Norwich, England, Mr. Miéville (his first name is pronounced like the country, his last name mee-AY- century authors is accepted as significant liter- ville) moved to Lon- ature in its pithy prose and its reflection of real- don as a child after ity, much as in the 19th-century classics of his parents sepa- Charles Dickens. The fair also has 19th-century rated. His father crime literature; London booksellers Jarndyce owned a “hippy book- will bring the “Moonstone” (1868) by Wilkie shop” and he was Collins, an early edition priced at £1,200. raised by his mother, There will be a large range of prices at the who taught French fair—even between different examples of the and Italian in second- same book by the same author. Lucius Books ary school. He grew will have two first-edition copies of Ian Flem- 5,383 sq. ft. Single-Story up reading science fic- ing’s first James Bond novel “Casino Royale” tion and fantasy (1953), one described as a “very good copy” Mansion in the Sky Kate Eshelby books by authors priced at £12,500 and another as a “better 10660 Wilshire Blvd., #1804 such as Joan Aiken, Norton Juster and Lewis than very good copy” at £17,500. Nigel Will- Los Angeles, California USA Carroll. iams will have a first edition without a dust He went on to earn a B.A. from Cambridge cover of Christie’s “Death on the Nile” (1937) in social anthropology, and a Ph.D. in interna- priced at £1,250. With dust jacket, says Mr. tional relations from the London School of True ‘Blue’: a life of Jean Rhys Williams, the book would cost around £8,000. Economics. He sold his first book, “King Rat,” Other factors include an author’s inscription as he was working on his Ph.D. (His thesis was By Colin Channer or signature. later published under the title “Between ORN ON THE Caribbean island of Do- A highlight at Royal Books of Baltimore Equal Rights: A Marxist Theory of Interna- Bminica in 1890, Jean Rhys, the will be an inscribed copy of hardboiled Ameri- tional Law.”) daughter of a Creole-Scotch mother and can writer Jim Thompson’s “Heed the Thun- “The City” may be “weird fiction,” but it is a Welsh physician, sailed to England in der” (1946), priced at $35,000. An inscribed rooted in the real world. The story takes the 1907 to be educated at a posh boarding work by Thompson is exceedingly rare as he form of a police procedural as the protago- school. shunned publicity and spent much of his life virtually cut off from other people. Also at With views of the Pacific Ocean, nist, Inspector Tyador Borlú of the Extreme Of course her story wouldn’t be as Crime Squad, tries to crack the murder case. interesting if things had worked out as Royal Books will be a first edition of James M. this 500 sq. meter 18th floor There are no elves or UFOs. her family had planned. She soon aban- Cain’s “The Postman Always Rings Twice” Penthouse has 4 bedrooms, 4.5 Instead, the story focuses on the lengths to doned the school. On her way to becom- (1934), priced at $9,500. A first-edition copy baths, a huge den & living room, which people will go to enforce borders and ing a writer in Paris (where she fell into of Rex Stout’s “Too Many Cooks” (1938), with formal dining and breakfast maintain separate cultural identities. Evoking the literary circle around the writer his New York orchid-loving detective Nero such writers as Franz Kafka and Mikhail Bulga- Ford Madox Ford), she took on various Wolfe, will be priced at $5,500. rooms, temp. controlled wine kov, Mr. Miéville asks readers to make concep- roles and jobs, including stints as a cho- At Nigel Williams, eight letters of corre- room , 6 balconies, walk-in closets, tual leaps and not to simply take flights of rus girl and a prostitute. She went on to spondence between American crime litera- art gallery, display cabinets, a fancy. author the 1966 novel “Wide Sargasso ture icon Raymond Chandler and his young gourmet kitchen, and hardwood, “You might call it an existential crime Sea,” a book many critics consider a dress designer friend Sara Perceval from parquet, & marble flooring. Full novel, but I worry that the word ‘existential’ classic of post-colonial literature. 1957-58 will be priced at £6,600. In one letter, makes it sound too weird or brainy. It’s not,” British writer Lilian Pizzichini, the Chandler advises her on designing night- service building with valet parking, said Chris Schluep, Mr. Miéville’s editor at Bal- author of the new biography “The Blue dresses: “I suggest the best improvement pool, security cameras on each lantine Books, in an email. Hour: A Life of Jean Rhys,” was 12 years would be to make them shorter and shorter.” New Line Cinema/Everet Collection floor, concierge, etc. Where Elite Buyers Mr. Miéville says he knows many readers old when she first became enchanted A letter from Chandler to his agent H.N. are “put off” by sci-fi and fantasy. The author with her subject. Karina Lombard (left) and Claudia Robinson Swanson in 1952 thanking him for a Christ- Offered at $4,250,000 himself is not a J.R.R. Tolkien fan (he’s criti- In one passage in the book, Ms. Pizzi- in the 1993 film adaptation of Jean Rhys’s mas gift—to be offered at auction house Bon- Les Zador at 818-995-9448 Find Luxury Properties cized Tolkien’s “Wagnerian pomposity”) and chini writes of Ms. Rhys’s childhood in ‘Wide Sargasso Sea.’ hams’s literature sale in New York on June [email protected] finished only two Harry Potter books before Dominica: “She did not fit in: she was 10—also shows the same dry wit: “Many he put the series aside (“I didn’t massively en- pale where the others were swarthy, she thanks to you for the tie with the Sherlock joy them,” he says). was timid where the others were confi- and a TV version in 2006. Ms. Pizzichini Holmeses and the bloody footprints on it,” Co-ops & Condos East But he feels that fantastic tales are a natu- dent. Nor was she like the black girls says that while Ms. Rhys’s life was tur- however, “a fellow who has worked his way up Manhattan - 50's East ral part of storytelling. When skeptics ask who lived on Genever, her family’s es- bulent and contradictory, it was also cul- to a wristwatch, with or without luck, and 57th St 1100 S.F for more information call, him, “How did you get into sci-fi and fan- tate....She would never be accepted as turally rich, and always interesting. then has slipped back to a tie is made to real- PIED-À-TERRE 44-20-7842-9600 or 49-69-971-4280 tasy?” he has a response. “My answer is: How one of them. To make matters worse, “She was a devoted reader of Freud, but ize that he is just about washed up” (estimate: SALE HOUSE Sizzling Italian Masterpiece! did you get out of it?” says Mr. Miéville. “Be- her mother was fond of remarking that at the same time she would go on her $1,000-$1,500). CHEAP AMERICAN LAND Hi Flr Renov. Furn. 1BR, 1.5B cause if you look at a roomful of kids, huge black babies were prettier than white own into the seediest bar in Montmar- Bonhams’s New York sale includes a first- 350m2 in restored medieval castle Pogen Pohl Kit TERR numbers of them will love aliens and mon- babies.” tre,” says Ms. Pizzichini. “People like edition copy of a holy grail of American crime Call 912-729-5544 30m north Rome City vus Move in 7 acres park pool tennis etc. w/Hotel services. sters and witches...and at a certain point, Ms. Rhys died in 1979 at the age of Ford Madox Ford played at being deni- fiction, “The Maltese Falcon” (1930) by Dash- or visit Euro 1.300,00 Web# 1015943 some of them will start to leave that behind 88. Her novel “Wide Sargasso Sea” zens of the demimonde. Jean was au- iell Hammett (estimate: $4,000-$6,000); and (39) 39 11 33 847 and Ellen Schatz 212.891.7673 and go on to what they think of—wrongly—as spawned a big screen movie in 1993, thentic.” Hammett’s “The Thin Man” (1934), estimated www.VacantLandAmerica.com [email protected] more serious stuff.” at $800-$1,200.

W12 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 W5 v Sports Putting tips from the master A chilling effect on Scotch purists’ hearts

Houston ICHARD PATERSON—re- Mark Reynier still complains: “We lose richness and depth of flavor,” HE RULES SAY you have to nowned whisky blender with go to all the lengths to provide hand- she says, “but you gain refreshment putt the ball with a stick. I’d RScotland’s Whyte & Mackay selected, natural whisky, unadulter- and smoothness.” ‘Troll it with my hand if I Ltd., home of such single malts as the ated by additives, sweeteners or col- American culture’s emphasis on could.” That’s the short-and-sweet Dalmore and Isle of Jura—has come orings,” he says, “only for the refreshment has something to do of Jackie Burke Jr.’s putting philoso- to dread ordering whisky in Amer- drinker to go and add chlorine and with the climate. “That’s what we do phy, and it explains the promise he ica. “Ask for Scotch in the U.S. and be- fluoride,” chemicals commonly in America,” says Ms. Greene, em- made on the phone when I asked if I fore you know it you hear that horri- found in frozen tap water. bracing her patrimony. “We put ice could drop by Champions Golf Club ble clink, clink, clink of ice going in So there is a move to elevate in our drinks.” here last Monday for a putting les- the glass,” he says in a voice that’s Scotch on the rocks by improving Even Mr. Paterson grudgingly ac- son. “If it takes me longer than five two parts exasperation and one part the rocks. Most ice at home suffers knowledges that people should, at minutes to show you how to putt, I’d burr. “As far as I’m concerned, if from chlorine and/or the smelly the end of the day, drink their better quit,” he said. you’ve got a nice 12-year-old Scotch taint of frozen foods. Ice at bars and whisky the way they like it. He just restaurants tends to be in little asks that, before you decide that chips or discs that melt too fast. The you prefer Scotch on the rocks, you Golf Journal How’s Your Drink? best bars have machines that pro- try it his way as well. JOHN PAUL NEWPORT ERIC FELTEN duce big, square-sided cubes. The Start with a decent room-temper- Macallan distillery is taking it one ature dram: “You should hold the step further by encouraging bars to whisky in your mouth, first on your In the view of Mr. Burke, whose whisky, there’s nothing more ridicu- acquire its “ice ball” machine, which tongue, then under your tongue, 16 victories on the PGA Tour include Courtesy of USGA Archives lous than putting ice in it.” crafts a crystalline sphere of frozen then around your mouth,” and only a Masters and a PGA Championship, hand on the grip and moves me these days, sometimes using high- Mr. Paterson is hardly the only water slightly smaller than a base- then let it slip down your throat. As people’s putting problems stem through a few strokes. “This is what speed photography linked to com- whisky purist to rail against the per- ball, served one to a glass. At home, an exercise in tasting, it’s not a bad from thinking too much about it. “If slow feels like. Exaggerate the slow- puter software. “I don’t want any nicious effects of ice in Scotch. Kevin the best bet is to make fresh ice us- routine, though I suspect most of us you can roll the ball across the green ness. You’ve got to trust the timing. systems. I don’t want you to have to Erskine, who writes about whisky at ing spring water in a tray that would rather relax and enjoy the with your hand, you can roll it with a Let the putter have its way,” he said. remember anything,” Mr. Burke theScotchBlog.com, says that when makes big cubes. whisky than make the experience an putter. It’s the same deal,” he said. That evening, on the carpet of told me. “Just see your break line, drinking Scotch neat “I may add Less persnickety about ice is exercise in sensory analysis. Mr. Burke seldom talks about put- my hotel room, I practiced rolling walk up to the ball and put a good varying amounts of water depend- Heather Greene, who has made an Still, I think the ice-dependent ting the ball, he talks about “rolling” balls with my hand and began to feel roll on it. Don’t putt to sink it, putt ing on the whisky, the weather and unlikely name for herself in whisky drinkers among us will find it illumi- it. He does it mostly with his right what he was getting at. When I got to make a good stroke.” Most golf- my mood—but never an ice cube.” circles. It’s rare for an American to nating to do their own side-by-side hand, the same way he demon- quick, or jerked my hand forward be- ers worry too much about how oth- But it is Mr. Paterson who, in the gain credibility in the world of tasting. Take a good, straightfor- strates standing sideways to the tar- fore releasing the ball, I couldn’t ers will perceive them if they goof Scotch tasting seminars he hosts Scotch, and rarer still for a woman ward single malt. Pour two glasses: get and swinging the right arm with control distance or direction nearly up, Mr. Burke believes. “You’ve got around the world, expresses his aver- to do so. She earned a reputation for one without ice, and another embel- his hand low to the ground, releas- as well as when I trusted the pendu- to play with a certain recklessness. sion to the practice by flinging a having a smart palate while working lished with a large cube or two of ice ing the ball from the fingers with a lum motion of my arm swing. “That Nothing’s a sure shot. I’ve never bucket of ice across the room. in Scotland on the Scotch Malt made from spring water. Take a follow through that rotates the was Hogan’s big problem when his seen anybody who was any good try The purists’ complaint is that Whisky Society’s tasting panel. Now taste of the tepid malt. It will seem hand closed, or to the left. The only Jackie Burke Jr. putts last week putting went bad,” Mr. Burke said to be sure about anything. You just whereas a small splash of spring wa- she’s back in the U.S. as a “brand am- at first sip rather fiery. difference when holding a putter is at his club in Houston; right, about his good friend and fellow put the ball out there and hope to ter seems to open up a whisky, re- bassador” for Glenfiddich, and her Then taste the iced whisky. It will Jupiter Images that the right hand is a couple of during his PGA Tour career, Texan. “He started trying to force it. the good Lord it’s your turn. It goes leasing its full bouquet and flavor, return home has challenged some of seem soothing, a respite from the feet above the ground, on the shaft. he hits his way out of a trap. He let me mess with his putting a lit- back to trust.” ice tends to do the opposite. The Scotch in the States was in a High- suited for drinking with ice. Even the notions she acquired in her ap- spirit’s alcohol burn. But then go But the palm of the right hand and tle, but I couldn’t help him.” I haven’t had a chance yet to put tongue is anesthetized by the cold, ball—a tall glass of whisky, ice and now, after a couple of decades of em- prenticeship. back to the neat Scotch. You’ll find the putter head work so closely to- Robert Seale for The Wall Street Journal That ball-rolling session also Mr. Burke’s putting philosophy to and the whisky itself acquires a soda water. It was toward the end of phasis on single-malt connoisseur- “When I first came back from that it blossoms with flavor in your gether, and in parallel, that they his torso and right upper arm. ter—and a fair number of them have helped me understand the virtue of the test in an actual round. For the smoothness that glosses over the the 1940s that the phrase “on the ship, Scotch ads in the U.S. still tend Scotland, I was in a traditionalist mouth. If you keep going back and seem to Mr. Burke like a single unit. All of this Mr. Burke showed me, taken putting lessons from Mr. letting the palm and fingers rotate pros, who have the time to work deeper complexities of the dram. rocks” emerged to describe doing to feature ice in the glass. mind-set, steadfast and stubborn forth, I suspect you will perceive the “If I know where the face of my as he said he would, in the first five Burke. Writer Dan Jenkins, in his closed after releasing the ball, as hard on every facet of grip, stance, But that particular sort of frigid without the fizzy dilution of seltzer. But that doesn’t mean Scotch against the idea of ice in whisky,” taste of the Scotch on the rocks as hand is, I know where the face of the minutes of our visit. He tried to new book “Jenkins at the Majors,” they are naturally inclined to do. Ini- alignment and stroke, maybe it’s gloss is just what many, perhaps By 1950 Whitney Bolton, a New York professionals are happy about the she says. But that changed after she narrower and perhaps even thinner putter is, so I don’t even have to make it sound simple, and it is, fun- which spans 60 years of reportage, tially, with a putter in my hand, I re- too haphazard; but for everyday most, Americans are looking for in Morning Telegraph columnist, way Americans drink their product. hosted a promotional tasting last with each sip. think about the putter,” he said. “I damentally—simple the way a waltz rates Mr. Burke one of the five best sisted. I wanted to push the ball players, who need something sim- their whisky. And it’s worth noting wrote that “in the last six months The Islay single-malt distillery summer at a New York bar where Which isn’t to say you won’t just imagine putting a good roll on was for Fred Astaire. But the devil, putters of all time, along with Tiger down the line, out toward the tar- ple and intuitive, it seems ideal. And that, in the U.S., the taste for drink- sales of sparkling water in all Bruichladdich nods to the durable the AC was on the blink. In the swel- want to drink your whisky that way. the ball with my putter the same as always, is in the details. Woods, Ben Crenshaw, Billy Casper get, but that is a fundamental viola- it certainly derives from Mr. Burke’s ing Scotch on the rocks was itself a brands have dropped alarmingly.” U.S. preference by offering a tering summer heat, the guests For me, Scotch on the rocks tastes way I do with my hand.” We spoke, to start with, in Mr. and Dave Stockton. tion. “You can’t try to guide the ball. own experiences growing up on move toward a more pure whisky ex- Before long, Scotch brands such “Rocks” version of its whisky spe- were fading—until she got a bucket more like a whisky cocktail than like As for the left hand, it just sits Burke’s wood-paneled office at “No, you put a hit on that one. Just focus on letting the putter hit hardpan Texas municipal courses in perience. In the first half of the 20th as the Famous Grouse were promot- cially selected to hold up to the icy of ice and started serving 12-year- whisky per se. And I just happen to lightly on the handle, he doesn’t Champions, the club he founded in Don’t do that,” Mr. Burke tells me the ball square, on a carpenter’s the 1930s and 1940s and playing on century the standard way to drink ing their whiskies as being well onslaught. But Bruichladdich exec old Glenfiddich on the rocks. “You like whisky cocktails. much care how. The right hand con- the late 1950s with his pal and fel- out on the practice putting green. 90-degree angle, and rotate on Tour primarily in the 1950s, when trols the stroke. Mr. Burke stands low Tour pro, Jimmy Demaret, who “Just let the weight of the putter through,” he said. When I objected greens were sketchy and inconsis- about 20 degrees open to the target died in 1983. Mr. Burke, at 86, is make the swing and you stay the that this required unrealistically tent. Pragmatically, intuitive put- line (although he doesn’t insist that white-haired, blue-eyed and sharp hell out of the way. Whatever speed perfect timing, he denied it. “You ting was what worked, and golf felt others do) and senses that he con- as a tack. He operates Champions, you go back with, that’s the speed don’t push the ball toward the tar- more like a game. trols the putter with what he calls which even these days has a waiting you want going forward.” After a get with a tennis racquet, you swing “I don’t see enough play in the the “muscle” along the crease be- list to get in, like a fief, one quirk be- lifetime of being told to accelerate through the ball and it goes straight game these days. Everybody’s try- Wine Notes: Making the most of a journey through Napa Valley tween his right-hand thumb and ing that a handicap of 14 or better is through the ball when putting, this because you know exactly where the ing to control every little thing,” he forefinger as they grip the handle. required for new members. The is hard to grasp, but it’s not really ac- face of that racquet is and you rely said. “When you dance, there aren’t By Dorothy J. Gaiter to the Silverado Trail and make an- fruitiness and complex maturity. The shaft nestles in his right palm 36-hole club has more single-digit celeration he’s worried about here, on timing. Same thing here.” any systems to it, you just go with and John Brecher other right, which will take you Maybe, with different weather, with his right fingertips barely in- handicappers than any other in the it’s getting quick—or “energizing” If some of this gets to seeming the music. That’s what I’d like to see E ARE GOING with the girls back toward where you started. you are drinking the wines with dif- volved. He “anchors” his stroke country—about 500 at last count, in- the stroke, as he puts it. technical, it’s actually the antithesis people do more, they need to swing Wto San Francisco this sum- It’s amazing how much calmer this ferent foods and they don’t pair as with a gentle connection between cluding 42 players at scratch or bet- He places a hand over my right of the way putting is often taught to the music of golf.” mer. We would love to have a cou- route is, far less crowded, but you well. And there’s always the possi- ple of recommendations for winer- will once again pass all sorts of win- bility that they’re just not as excit- ies to visit. We have never been eries whose names will bring a ing to you as they were when you Arbitrage there. smile. When you are almost all the first tasted them. ‘Ghosts of Berlin’ way back—it will take maybe 45 This is such an interesting ques- Echoes of Berlin Our neighbors sent us this note minutes or so—drop into Regusci tion that we called up Cornell Prof. This jazzy lament about the a couple of weeks ago. We have Vineyards, which has excellent Brian Wansink, an expert on food Singer Ute Lemper draws on Berlin Wall invokes the number The price of written extensive columns and wines and a lovely view. From psychology and author of “Mind- of days it stood: 10,260. Ms. Germany’s past as she looks to book chapters about visiting Napa there, head right back to San Fran- less Eating.” He said it could be Lemper, who recorded her first greens fees and Sonoma—and, of course, oth- cisco. two things: temperature and com- make her songs more personal album in a studio next to the wall, ers have written entire books—but panion foods. “The temperature of describes it in feminine terms in Local many people, like our neighbors, Why is it that those great red the room seems to tell us how Cabaret singer Ute Lemper has lived in her lyrics. “This is the way the City currency Œ have never visited the area and are wines that we were drinking this much we like wines and how high New York for more than a decade, but East German government spoke more interested in a quick day trip past winter, based on your recom- we rate them,” he told us. In a her music is rooted in her upbringing in of the wall—they called it ‘our New York $32 Œ24 just to get a feel of the place. So mendations, don’t taste nearly as study he conducted at the Univer-

a divided Germany. Born in Münster in lady.’ They must have been out of AFP Frankfurt Œ32 Œ32 this is what we sent our neighbors: good now that summer ap- sity of Illinois, the temperature of 1963, Ms. Lemper explored the music of their minds to do that,” she says. Dear Dara and Evan, your left. There is often a Milat be- will be beautiful—the vines will be proaches? a room was raised from 20 degrees the Weimar Republic, especially that of London £30 Œ34 We’d head to Napa, which is hind the counter, which is a throw- green and lush when you are there— —Henry and Kathy Hagan, to 28 degrees Celsius and partici- Jewish composers such as Kurt Weill, ‘Blood and Feathers’ ‘Nomad’ close and easy to visit. (There is a back to the days when tasting and there are all sorts of other in- Atlanta pants were asked to rate a heavy Brussels Œ50 Œ50 to create a dialogue with the past, she Based on a poem of the same name Beginning with an Arabic good map here: www.napavintners. rooms were staffed by winemakers teresting sights. Cabernet, a light Chardonnay and says. On her album, “Between Yesterday by Jacques Prévert, the track uses poem—which Ms. Lemper sang Paris Œ55 Œ55 com/wineries) Go on a weekday if and family members. Then just About nine miles from Milat Assuming proper storage, a rosé. “People’s evaluation of the and Tomorrow,” Ms. Lemper uses these show business as a metaphor for phonetically—the song ends with you can because traffic on week- travel right up Highway 29. You you will see Sterling Vineyards on there are many reasons, among Cabernet dropped dramatically as influences to experiment with more politics, Ms. Lemper says. The a poem in Yiddish. She says she Rome Œ55 Œ55 ends is particularly ugly. Plan to will see so many familiar names, your right (don’t stop there be- them: Perhaps the wines were the temperature of the room went personal songwriting. song features the accordion-like intended this collage of languages Hong Kong HK$1,365 Œ129 travel right up Highway 29, the from Louis Martini to Beringer. cause it will take too long during a made to drink young and they’re from [20 to 28] degrees and in- —John Jurgensen sound of a bandoneón. “Because to deliver a cross-cultural message main road. On your way in, past While many of these now are one-day trip, but it’s fun to see simply not as good as they were; or creased for the white wine,” he the words are rather dark, I needed “that love should mean love about Tokyo ¥23,550 Œ180 Mondavi and Rubicon Estate (Cop- owned by giant corporations, they from the road). Exactly where Ster- if they are fine wines, they are go- said. Listen to a song from ‘Between Yesterday the blood, the warmth, of that anything. It should be this shelter Note: Weekdays as a walk-on at a local course for 18 pola), stop at Milat Vineyards, a are still classic names that bring ling is located, at Dunaweal Lane, ing through a “dumb period,” be- —Melanie Grayce West and Tomorrow,’ at WSJ.com/Lifestyle. instrument,” she says. where all people can find a home.” holes; prices, including taxes, as provided by retailers charming little tasting room on back great memories. The drive make a right. Go just about a mile tween their phases of youthful contributed to this column. in each city, averaged and converted into euros.

W6 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 W11 v Food & Drink v Design

Kaiseki, the art you can eat Kiyomizu-Dera Temple In tough times, designers get crafty

By Stan Sesser By Helen Kirwan-Taylor Kyoto, Japan Special to The Wall Street Journal HE MEAL AT famed Kikunoi HE WEIRD AND OFTEN won- restaurant was cutting-edge: derful objects on show at the T12 courses made up of 60 dif- TSalone Internazionale del Mo- ferent items, each fanatically bile, Milan’s annual furniture fair, sourced using the freshest and high- provoke a lot of discussion and head- Panoramic Images/Getty Images est-quality ingredients available. scratching but they don’t always And in the trendiest fashion, the en- show up in shop windows. It’s only Moooi’s ‘Brave tire meal, which stretched to almost in the weeks following the fair (this New World’ lamp. three hours, weighed in at less than Kyoto year’s event ran from April 22-27), 1,000 calories. as the design companies process or- Welcome to kaiseki (kye- ders, that it’s possible to gauge the Alex Hellum’s Ulrik SEK-ee), the original fixed-price travel tips real trends for summer/fall. ash stool for SCP. tasting menu, whose roots in Kyoto “Milan is really an exercise in go back almost 500 years to the Jap- Getting there branding and PR rather than sell- anese tea ceremony’s origins and ing,” says Carlo Urbinati, co- The Shinkansen, Japan’s the practices of meat-shunning Bud- founder of the Italian lighting com- high-speed train system, dhist monks. Today, the tradition is pany Foscarini, whose new prod- whisks you to Kyoto from To- a major inspiration for the multi- ucts at the fair included “Tress,” a kyo in just over two hours for course degustation menus now pop- lamp made of interwoven resin about $130 each way. It ular in the West, at places like El threads by Marc Sadler (£874 for a leaves from Tokyo Station Bulli in Spain, Joël Robuchon in Las large floor-standing light), due in and Shinagawa Station. Vegas and the French Laundry in Cal- stores this September. ifornia’s Napa Valley. Chefs from Where to stay But even at the fair itself the ef- world-class restaurants make fre- fect of the economic downturn was Kyoto is filled with tiny ho- quent pilgrimages to Kikunoi to ex- clear, as manufacturers sought to tels and Japanese inns (ryo- perience the work of the 56-year- dors to your dining room, which is tone down their collections—which Top to bottom, a kans). They needn’t be expen- old chef, Yoshihiro Murata. spacious, carpeted with tatami mats in past years have included such first course featuring sive. On my last night, I paid Kyoko Murata, Mr. Murata’s wife and empty, except for a low, black- flights of fancy as 175-centimeter 11 items at Kikunoi less than $100 at a downtown and Kikunoi’s maître d’, says cele- lacquer table in the center. You sit crystal globe chandeliers and giant restaurant in Kyoto; business hotel for a cramped brated guests are a fairly regular oc- on a pillow leaning against a leather mosaic airplanes. This year, “util- a kaiseki dish at room and an airliner-size currence there. “Ferran Adrià backrest, with a view through a ity” is the new watchword. “If some- Peter Marigold’s SUM Guilo Guilo; and the bathroom. On the upscale comes here often and we also eat at glass wall of the illuminated garden. thing looks cultivated and intellec- shelves for SCP. hip restaurant’s side, two Kyoto hotels com- El Bulli. They’re definitely influ- Your legs rest under the table in a tual it will sell, no problem,” says Pa- dinner scene. bine luxury with an authentic enced by kaiseki food,” she says. I pit, heated to keep your feet warm. olo Moroni, co-founder of the Milan feeling of being in Japan. rattle off the names of a few other The meal of seafood and vegeta- based Sawaya & Moroni. “If it’s gim- is appealing in these angst-ridden They are the Hyatt Regency Michelin three-star chefs, American bles doesn’t disappoint. With mini- micky, not at all. Clients are looking times.” Kyoto, 644-2 Sanjyusan- and French. “Of course they’ve mal cooking and seasoning so as not for things they can live with for a B&B Italia—a company usually gendo Mawari-cho, Higash- eaten here,” she replies. to mask the quality of the ingredi- long time.” in the technological forefront, with iyama-ku (% 81-75-541-1234; Kikunoi has been serving kaiseki ents, every bite is a revelation. In British designer Tom Dixon, who items usually made in factories—un- about $350) and Brighton Ho- meals since it opened in 1911. Mr. one course, nine items are arranged showed his aptly named Utility col- characteristically showed off such tel Kyoto, Nakadachiuri, Shin- Patricia Urquiola’s Adrià, whose avant-garde “molecu- on a plate like a rock garden. Some lection in Milan, is at the forefront ‘Quilt’ chair by Ronan and Erwan low-tech items as the Philippines-in- machi-dori, Kamigyo-ku ‘Crinoline’ chair. lar cuisine” has led many critics to stand alone (fava beans, salt-pick- of a new design emphasis on no-non- Bouroullec for Established and Sons. spired “Crinoline” woven chairs by (% 81-75-441-4411; about call his restaurant the best in the led squid, lily bulb petals), others in sense, eco-friendly products. “I call Patricia Urquiola in both natural $280). If price is no object world, praised Kikunoi in the intro- combination (grilled squid with sea- it back to basics,” he says. “I think and synthetic materials (from and you want a private kai- duction he wrote for Mr. Murata’s weed and egg yolk, a skewer of aba- the delusions of grandeur [of other Moooi’s “Brave New World” lamp Table, Bench, Chair by Sam power. “From being an unfashion- £1,338 in rope; from £1,194 in poly- seki dinner in your own room cookbook, “Kaiseki: The Exquisite lone, shrimp and avocado). designers] have passed.” His pieces (from Œ2,108) features oak battens Hecht/Industrial Facility (£850- able fringe activity just a couple of ethylene fiber weaving). “I love at a luxurious ryokan where Cuisine of Japan’s Kikunoi Restau- During my visit, much of the include the Off Cut stool (£145), and pegs and cast iron counter- £1,650). British manufacturer SCP years ago, craft has now been em- working using ‘old materials’ in a English is spoken, Hiiragiya rant” (Kodansha International, meaning of this sophisticated meal made from bits of discarded factory weights, with all the wires showing; called its new affordable collection braced by cutting-edge designers new way or new materials using tra- Ryokan fills the bill. Naka- 2006). “While in the West we cook would have passed over my head timber; and the Slab bar stool it’s almost like a wooden erector “Boxed.” The 16-piece collection in- and manufacturers as a viable alter- ditional techniques,” Ms. Urquiola hakusancho, Fuyacho Aneroji- with the senses, the heart, and logic, had I not been dining with Yoshiko (£350), made of oak and cast iron set. Established and Sons’ collec- cludes a simple ash stool (£118) by native to industrially produced says. Agaru, Nakagyo-ku the Japanese add to this an extra Isshiki, a curator of modern art who (www.tomdixon.net). tion was displayed within a curved young designer Alex Hellum and goods,” says Marcus Fairs, editor-in- Other companies are focusing on (% 81-75-221-1136; $300 to component . . . the soul. Nowhere is spends a lot of time in Kyoto and has Scrap wood was everywhere in wall of crude, hammered-together cherry wood-shelving units by Peter chief of online design magazine products made from “sustainable” $900 a person, including kai- this better exemplified than by the made food her passion. In our first Milan. The Italian lighting company wood designed by Alasdhair Willis Marigold (£215 for three), which Dezeen.com. “Even though craft is materials in ways that benefit devel- seki dinner). work of Yoshiro Murata,” he wrote. course, as an example, a piece of the Intrecciodilinee showed its square and Sebastian Wrong. It included will be put into production this sum- in many ways a branch of the luxury oping-world economies. The “Shad- After spending three days in Ky- grilled squid was coated with finely Where to eat light “La Singola” (Œ237) within an the (Michelin-man inspired) “Quilt” mer. industry—as the pieces tend to be owy” chairs by Tord Boontje for Mo- oto, where visitors can eat varia- chopped seaweed and cut to resem- Kikunoi is the most fa- actual crate. The L’Altro light (Œ287) chair by Ronan and Erwan Bouroul- The use of craft techniques in de- expensive—the perceived humility roso (Œ1,000) are hand-woven by tions of kaiseki for breakfast, lunch ble the curled stem of a flower. Sev- mous of the kaiseki restau- came surrounded in simple timber. lec (£1,800-£6,500), and the sober sign looks like a trend with staying and sustainability of crafted objects fishermen in Senegal. and dinner, I began to see why this eral courses later, steamed tilefish rants, and the dinner is a centuries-old cuisine holds so much was accompanied by a warabi fern- good value. Gion Maruyama, fascination for the most inventive head—which, Ms. Isshiki pointed Makuzugahara, Higash- chefs of Europe and America. Kai- out, looked like that piece of squid. iyama-ku (% 81-75-561-0015; seki is a tonic to the senses from ev- Since the essence of kaiseki is $150). For a hip, informal kai- ery direction, and something no seasonality, Kikunoi’s menu seki, try Guilo Guilo, located Lessons from the spring auctions Western restaurant I’ve ever dined changes completely every month. in an old wooden house. Nish- By Kelly Crow in can approach. It demands perfec- “The Japanese really want to get the ikiyamachi-dori, Matsubara sons learned this time around: tention to the shifting art market placing bets on unknown artists, tion from the freshness and prepara- idea of being part of the season,” Sagaru, Shimogyo-ku HE ART MARKET may have Bigger isn’t always better but still harbors high hopes for his but this time they retreated to clas- tion of the ingredients to the dishes Mr. Wilcox, the aspiring chef, ex- just laid down its new floor. egg: “It’s a symbol of possibility.” sic artists like Camille Pissarro and Stan Sesser/The Wall Street Journal (3) (% 81-75-343-7070, $37). T they are served on. The noise in plained after my dinner in mid- The well-known Hyotei of- The major spring art auctions that During the recent art boom, auc- Due diligence required Alexander Calder, whose perches some New York restaurants makes tea ceremony was too intense to be ples ending with a kaiseki dinner at April. “Now they want cherry blos- fers a kaiseki breakfast. concluded last weekend in New tion houses wowed new collectors in art history are likely secure. it impossible to concentrate on your sipped on an empty stomach. He Kikunoi is an experience visitors soms on their plate. Two weeks ago, Kusakawa-cho 35, Nanzenji, York were the smallest round in by attaching eye-popping prices to Collectors did their homework Four mobiles by Calder sold meal; kaiseki diners sit in a tranquil, started serving small plates of food won’t quickly forget. it was buds from the cherry tree, Sakyo-ku (% 81-75-771-4116, terms of total sales in five years, room-sized works by artists like for these sales, dissecting artists’ briskly during the sales, some- private room and gaze onto a Japa- to make drinking the tea more enjoy- The simplicity of a kaiseki dinner and a week from now they won’t $45). The bento box lunch at but collectors have begun ventur- Jeff Koons and Takashi Murakami. individual markets beforehand to times following seven-way bid- nese garden while polite, efficient able. With Kyoto home to Japan’s masks its complexity. In contrast to want them at all.” Yasuku Gozen is a generous ing back into the market in search But collectors’ wallets and wall see whether their offerings were ding wars involving major collec- waitresses in kimonos cater to ev- great tea masters, kaiseki flowered Western cuisines, there are no fancy There are some variations. The preview of the kaiseki dinner. of art bargains. New York’s two spaces aren’t as accommodating fresh to the marketplace and repre- tors like Eli Broad. Sotheby’s led ery need. The cost, at Kikunoi, is here, too—one of the ways food, art sauces, except for an occasional dip- restaurant Hyotei serves a kaiseki Yasaka-dori, Gion Miyugawa chief auction houses—Christie’s In- anymore, so auction houses had to sented career highlights. Many the way, helping a Chicago collec- $150 a person—a bargain compared and religion have converged to ping sauce. Presentations might be breakfast, including chicken meat- Cho, Kyogaki ternational and Sotheby’s— hustle to offload their largest, and fans of Alberto Giacometti’s spin- tor sell Calder’s 1934 mobile, “Eb- with, say, the $275 tasting menu at make Kyoto the spiritual and culi- elegant, but they’re always uncom- balls covered in chopped seaweed, (% 81-75-531-6600). brought in about $408.8 million priciest, lots. At Sotheby’s, Mr. dly sculptures knew, for example, ony Sticks in Semi-Circle,” for $3.4 Thomas Keller’s Per Se in New York. nary center of Japan. plicated. Food doesn’t arrive in tow- sushi wrapped in a cherry leaf and combined from their semiannual Koons’s dealer Larry Gagosian that his gold-brown bust of a wavy- million, double its high estimate. Derek Wilcox, a 32-year-old A visitor could be happily occu- ering stacks; the waiter never says the best hard-cooked egg I’ve ever sales of Impressionist, modern stepped in and bought the artist’s haired man, “Buste de Diego (Stele Buyers used these sales to flex American, has worked in Kikunoi’s pied for a month visiting the city’s that the “Chef” wants you to eat a had. The kaiseki at Guilo Guilo, and contemporary art, a total that van-sized Easter egg sculpture, III),” had been tucked away in an es- newfound leverage over sellers, lob- kitchen for two years at no pay to more than 1,000 Buddhist temples particular dish by starting with a meanwhile, is positively radical. In inched over its $382 million low “Baroque Egg with Bow (Tur- tate for over three decades. It sold Christie's bing up bids on artworks with few learn how kaiseki is properly done. and Shinto shrines, many with exten- certain ingredient. And there’s no an old house with timbered ceilings, mark but represented a fraction of quoise/Magenta),” for $5.4 million at Christie’s for $7.6 million, over Tamara de Lempicka’s ‘Portrait de other takers and slashing bid His hours—7 a.m. to 11 p.m. six days sive grounds and gardens. Dozens of fuss about wine; while a wine list is the place hops as waiters bound up last spring’s $1.4 billion total. with fees, below its $6 million esti- its $6.5 million high estimate. Madame M’ (1932) sold at Christie’s amounts when they sensed victory. a week—are grueling. He plans to ryokans—traditional Japanese usually available, the house sake steep steps with dishes on their Smaller Phillips de Pury & Co. mate. By contrast, six bidders at Sotheby’s, meanwhile, had trou- for $6.1 million. Auctioneers accustomed to field- open a kaiseki restaurant in the U.S. inns, some serving kaiseki meals— complements the meal perfectly. arms. Sea bass roe with coffee-fla- brought in $12.3 million in its two- Christie’s fought over the artist’s ble stamping out rumors that its Gi- ing bids at $100,000 found them- in seven to 10 years—the amount of are an alternative to traditional ho- The evening at Kikunoi begins on vored potato sauce, a rice ball day auction of contemporary art, toaster-sized train engine, “Jim acometti cat sculpture, “Le Chat,” selves accepting bid increments as time he figures he’ll need to learn all tels. Many of Kyoto’s old buildings a note some might find jarring. A topped with foie gras sauce and tofu below its $17.5 low estimate. Bean-J.B. Turner Engine,” with a had been shopped privately before Schreiber Jacoby. Sotheby’s says it little as $5,000. “People are a little the principles and techniques. have been demolished and replaced young, kimono-clad woman greets skin, and a panna cotta of green Christie’s won this drastically telephone bidder eventually win- its auction. That work, priced to sell hasn’t shopped the piece. bit scared and confused about the Kaiseki’s elaborate style dates with ugly concrete boxes, but there you at the door on her knees; as you peas with honey ice cream and deep- downsized round by selling $248.8 ning it for $2.3 million, twice its for at least $16 million, failed to sell. Safety in the classics art market,” collector Abdallah Cha- back to the 16th century and the tea are still enough old wooden houses remove your shoes, she touches her fried lily roots—this is 21st-century million, besting Sotheby’s $160 high estimate. “The cat had been on the prowl,” tila says, “but for me that means master Sen no Rikyu, who thought around to turn a walk into a discov- head to the floor. Then she escorts kaiseki, and at $37 it’s both inexpen- million total. Here are a few les- Mr. Koons said he is paying at- said New York art adviser Beverly Collectors spent recent seasons there are buying opportunities.” the powdered green tea used in the ery. A day of visiting Kyoto’s tem- you through the blond-wood corri- sive and fabulous. Joe LeMonier

W10 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 W7 v Travel On the Picasso trail Where to stay To be closer to his friends, the Murphys, F. Scott Fitzgerald rented the seaside Villa St. Louis in 1926, where he and Zelda would invite the whole gang over for parties. In 1929 the villa was transformed into the 43-room Art-Deco gem, Hotel Belles Rives. Today, Marianne Chauvin-Es- summer of picasso tène (grand-daughter of the orig- inal owner) has taken great care to preserve the hotel’s original look: 1930s furnishings, cubist paintings and frescoes, and the stylish Bar Fitzgerald. Double rooms from Œ180-Œ725 From top, a room at 28 % ( 33-4-93-61-02-79; www. à Aix; Picasso’s Vauvenargues, France bellesrives.com). ‘Laughing-eyed face’ N A WARM Septem- Touring the Located in Aix-en- vase, from 1969, at ber day in 1958, when Provence’s historic Maz- Céramiques du Pablo Picasso proudly artist’s arin neighborhood, just Château; the cubist announced to his down the street from pizza at La Passagère. friends that he’d just the Granet Mu- bought Cézanne’s Provence seum, 28 à Aix is fresh grilled fish, famed Provence mountain, the an exquisitely re- served at the wa- Sainte-Victoire, he wasn’t talking inspirations, furbished 17th- ter’s edge about a canvas. The Spanish artist, century private (% 33-493-61-33-7 Musee de l’Ermitage, Saint-Petersbourg home, recently who’d vowed never to return to his from local s 4; www. native country as long as Franco converted into an plagekeller.com). was in power, bought not only the pottery artsy four-room Seafood aficiona- imposing 17th-century Château de guest house. dos can find authen- Vauvenargues in this tiny village, to Cézanne’s Rooms from Œ240 in tic but pricey bouilla- but also 1,000 hectares of surround- summer baisse at Chez Nounou in % Claude Germain Yokohama Museum of Art ( 33-4-42-54-82-01;

ing pine-covered scrub and red rock Succession Picasso 2009, Golfe-Juan for about Œ65 a s s mountain s that form part of the northern face www.28aaix.com). bowl (% 33-493-63-71-73; www. of Mont Sainte-Victoire, a land- Set back in a wooded park on nounou.fr). scape painted more than 30 times tered into multiple points of view.” 1937 Paris World Exposition—in If you’re browsing for ceram- by Cézanne, who was born in nearby One section of the show is de- front of the castle overlooking the ics in Vallauris, book a table on Aix-en-Provence. voted to Picasso’s mirroring of Cé- countryside. The artist died on the outdoor terrace on the leafy This year marks the 50th anniver- zanne through common objects and April 8, 1973, at age 92 in Mougins, square at the Café Llorca, just be- sary of Picasso’s self-imposed exile forms, from still-lifes of fruit, white and is buried alongside Jacqueline, side Picasso’s bronze, “Man with in the Vauvenargues castle, where porcelain and skulls, to harlequins who committed suicide in 1986. De- a Sheep,” the perfect spot for the artist lived with his second wife, and mythological bathers, along spite the 45-year age gap between lunch after a visit to the artist’s Jacqueline, from 1959 to 1961, so with Picasso’s successive muses them, Jacqueline and Picasso were “War and Peace” fresco in the that he could devote himself en- (from the early Cubist years in Paris together for the last 20 years of his chapel just steps away. The tirely to painting. The couple had with Fernande Olivier to Françoise life, and for 17 of those years she menu features authentic been living in the Villa Californie, in Gilot and second wife Jacqueline was the only woman he painted. Provençal and Italian dishes. A the lush residential heights of Roque) all seated in an armchair, Mougins, once a charmingly ru- three-course menu without wine Cannes, since 1955. But the construc- just as Madame Cézanne had posed ral village but now a considerably is around Œ30 tion of high-rise apartments was ru- for her husband in the late 1880s. gentrified maze of cobblestone the outskirts of Aix, La Pauline is (% 33-493-64-30-42). ining the sea view, and Picasso was Surprisingly, the two men never streets lined with art galleries and a charming five-room bed-and- Where to shop bothered by tourists with binocu- actually met face to face, even restaurants, is worth a trip for its breakfast, housed in a stately lars, hoping to catch a glimpse of though they shared the same Pari- Museum of Photography mansion built for Napoleon’s sis- Directly across from the Pic- the great master. Sleepy Vauvenar- sian art dealer, Ambroise Vollard. Pi- (% 33-4-93-75-85-67). The superb ter, Pauline Borghese. Doubles asso Museum in Antibes, the tiny gues—which, even today, has fewer casso, who also had a sharp eye as a permanent collection includes por- Œ200 (% 33-4-42-17-02-60; www. gallery Céramiques du Château than 700 residents—seemed the collector, bought four Cézanne oils traits of Picasso by André Villers as Henry Ely - Aix lapauline.fr). sells a small but stunning collec- s ideal retreat. and one watercolor, three of which well as other famed photographers tion of signed Picasso ceramics, To commemorate Picasso’s ar- are in this show. including Robert Doisneau, David Where to eat including unique pieces and num- rival in Cézanne country, the Granet Compared to the Granet exhibi- Douglas Duncan, Lucien Clergue Above, the interior and exterior The Hotel Belles Rives’s res- bered limited editions created in Museum in Aix-en-Provence will on tion, the Château de Vauvenargues and Jacques-Henri Lartigue. of the Château de Vauvenargues. taurant, La Passagère, serves a Vallauris between 1947-71 Monday open a major summer exhi- tour is a more intimate experience, If you’re heading south before Top left, Picasso’s ‘Buste de la “Picasso by Llorca” dinner, an ed- (% 33-493-33-11-11; www.ceram- AFP bition entitled “Picasso-Cézanne,” bringing visitors into the artist’s pri- June 15, don’t miss the current show fermière’ (1908); top right, Paul ible cubist extravaganza. The iquesduchateau.com). with around 100 paintings, draw- vate world (tickets can be pur- at the Musée Picasso, housed in the Cézanne’s ‘Madame Cézanne en menu includes an amuse-bouche In the midst of Vallauris’s ings, watercolors, engravings and chased on the day of the visit in a 12th-century stone Château Grim- robe rayée’ (1883-85); left, of foie gras, a specially designed touristy main drag, a riot of sculptures of works by both artists BY LANIE GOODMAN booth at 36 Rue Cardinal, near the aldi in Antibes. “The Era of Renewal, Picasso’s ‘Nature morte aux cubist pizza, sea bass with olives kitsch water fountains, jugs and as they evolved throughout their Place des Dauphins in Aix-en- 1945-1949” documents the artist’s crâne et trois oursins’ (1947). and an egg-shaped chocolate birds, is the Galerie Sassi-Milici, lifetimes. But the biggest buzz Special to The Wall Street Journal Provence; % 33-442-16-11-61). Ex- return from Paris, where he had pastry; Œ90 without wine. one of the few serious ceramics

about the show goes beyond the mu- pect to see a mythological pipe-play- spent the war, to the shimmering Succession Picasso 2009 La Garoupe Beach, the small workshops and galleries that re- seum walls. From May 27 to Sept. ing faun painted on the bathroom shores of the Mediterranean with s sandy cove on the Cap d’Antibes, main today. Co-owner Domin- 27, for the first time, the Château de lic sculptures by contemporary Picasso. From June 27 to mid-Octo- wall, and personal objects strewn drawings, paintings, photos and ex- which he modeled into his first manent collection in the Picasso Mu- bears little resemblance to the ique Sassi learned his trade in Vauvenargues (privately owned by Southern French artist, Bernard ber, the Château-Museum in Vallau- about, such as the mandolin the art- amples of his newly found passion, three pieces—two tiny bulls and a seum in Antibes, which includes the tranquil paradise of the 1920s, the Madoura atelier (now Catherine Hutin, Jacqueline’s Pagès, or attend a kid-friendly mini- ris will feature an homage to Picas- ist bought while waiting for a bull- ceramics (www.antibes-juanlespins. faun’s head,” recalls gallery owner famed “Ulysses and the Sirens,” cre- but the sea has remained the closed), standing side by side daughter) is opening its doors to circus performance under a tent, so’s longtime pal, poet Blaise Cen- fight in Arles and subsequently com/fr/culture/musees/picasso). and potter, Dominique Sassi, who ated in the postwar years while the same improbable shade of tur- with the great master. The collec- small groups of visitors—only 18 where juggling and acrobatic work- drars. painted into his still-lifes. His ate- The collection reflects the painter’s later apprenticed alongside the art- artist was holed up in his atelier at quoise and emerald, and it’s a tion features works by Picasso’s people per group, plus the official shops will also be held. But the main attraction is the lier, with enormous bay windows exuberance and hope during this ist. “The following summer, Picasso the Grimaldi castle. great place to dine with your potter friends, including Roger guide—for a tour of the artist’s aus- In June and July, the streets of Granet’s “Picasso-Cézanne” show. facing west, has been meticulously postwar period of peace and his un- returned to Madoura, delighted to A highlight of the current show toes in the sand. The Restaurant Capron, and contemporary art- tere, sprawling retreat. Aix-en-Provence will come alive The exhibition is divided themati- preserved: easels, pots of Ripolin alloyed happiness with his compan- find that they’d fired the pieces and are graceful pencil drawings of a César at the Plage Keller features ists (% 33-493-64-65-71; www. The exhibition and the castle with outdoor performances by danc- cally, beginning with Cézanne’s vi- house paint, splattered terra cotta ion at the time, the young painter had put them aside. That did it for dancing Françoise, half woman, half tasty Provençal fare, salads and sassi-milici.com). tour form the core of a Picasso- ers, musicians, open-air documen- sionary influence on modern art tiled floors, and two painted chairs Françoise Gilot (who would bear him, he couldn’t wait to learn every- flower, reminiscent of the odal-

themed summer extravaganza of ex- tary films on the artist, as well as Succession Picasso 2009 (Matisse called him “the father of us covered with Picasso’s darkened pal- him two children, Claude and Pal- thing he could from the Ramiés, and isques of his friend and rival, Mat- hibits, open-air concerts, theater costumed parades, inspired by Pic- s all”), and in particular, a look at how ette of yellows, somber greens, reds oma), and also marks a crucial cre- ended up making around 4,000 ce- isse, who lived in nearby Nice. Mont and street festivities throughout asso’s predilection for harlequins the painter’s geometrical patch- and blacks, as if the artist had gone ative turning point. ramic works during his lifetime.” This is hardly a coincidence. Dur- Sainte Mougins Antibes the south of France. Aix-en- and his collaboration with Erik work landscapes of rust, ochre and off for a stroll. In July 1946, Picasso and Gilot Single-handedly revitalizing the ing his lifetime of feverish protean Victoire Vauvenargues Cannes Provence, the epicenter of the cul- Satie in “Parade,” performed in 1917 green served as a catalyst for Picas- Everything—from the seven- settled in a tiny apartment in Golfe- town’s moribund ceramics industry production, Picasso found a unique tural offerings (www.picasso- by the Ballets Russes. so’s Cubist experimentation and minute film of the artist painting in Juan. Have a walk on the beach with his whimsical bird-shaped way of creating things never seen be- Aix-en-Provence aix2009.fr), hosts an exhibit of pho- Elsewhere, further west in techniques. his atelier to his bedroom, adorned where Picasso and Françoise often jugs, Picasso was elected an honor- fore and destroying things as they’d FRANCE tographs of Picasso taken by his Provence, Picasso will be celebrated Museu Picasso, Barcelona, “For Cézanne, the break with tra- only with a Catalonian flag-in- strolled, then spend the afternoon ary citizen of Vallauris. Don’t miss a never been destroyed. He moved Vallauris friend, Lucien Clergue, displayed in in a multimedia open-air show at s dition involves tilted planes and the spired, red-and-yellow-striped shopping for ceramics in the nearby trip to the village’s tiny medieval through the history of art by break- Golfe Juan Area of Juan-les-Pins Cézanne’s studio, and another 50 Les Baux de Provence’s Cathedral of Top, Pablo Picasso in April 1949, relationship between objects—the headboard and blood-red-and-black hilltop village, Vallauris. It was chapel (in the courtyard of the vil- ing rules and reinventing the paint- Marseille detail rarely seen photos taken by Jacque- Images. There are also several with a ceramic work made in dish of apples on the bunched up ta- rug designed by Picasso—feels like here, during an annual pottery fair, lage castle, which now houses the ings of others: Velázquez, Ingres, line Picasso, hung in Aix’s Vendôme shows featuring Picasso’s many his studio in Vallauris; above, blecloth doesn’t have the same per- a discovery of his rarely seen inti- that the artist met Suzanne and Magnelli Museum and the Ceramic Delacroix, Manet and, of course, Cé- Pavilion. You can also rediscover Cé- friends: the Edgar Mélik Museum in the artist’s 1917 painting spective as the sugar bowl next to mate space. Georges Ramié, who ran the Ma- Museum) where Picasso was given zanne. zanne’s country manor, Le Jas de Cabriès, near Aix, is devoting its ‘Arlequin,’ part of the it,” says the museum’s head curator, The tour ends with Picasso’s doura ceramics workshop. “They carte blanche to paint a colossal po- For, as Picasso himself once 0 30km Bouffan, and stroll through the vast summer exhibition to poet and ‘Picasso-Cézanne’ exhibition in Bruno Ely. “For Picasso, it will be the tomb—marked only by a copy of a took Picasso up to their atelier and litical fresco, “War and Peace.” wrote: “Bad artists copy. Good art- Mediterranean Sea park, lined with monumental metal- painter Max Jacob and his link with Aix-en-Provence. fragmentation of one object, shat- bronze that Picasso exhibited at the gave him a bit of the local red clay, You’ll also want to revisit the per- ists steal.”

W8 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 W9 v Travel On the Picasso trail Where to stay To be closer to his friends, the Murphys, F. Scott Fitzgerald rented the seaside Villa St. Louis in 1926, where he and Zelda would invite the whole gang over for parties. In 1929 the villa was transformed into the 43-room Art-Deco gem, Hotel Belles Rives. Today, Marianne Chauvin-Es- summer of picasso tène (grand-daughter of the orig- inal owner) has taken great care to preserve the hotel’s original look: 1930s furnishings, cubist paintings and frescoes, and the stylish Bar Fitzgerald. Double rooms from Œ180-Œ725 From top, a room at 28 % ( 33-4-93-61-02-79; www. à Aix; Picasso’s Vauvenargues, France bellesrives.com). ‘Laughing-eyed face’ N A WARM Septem- Touring the Located in Aix-en- vase, from 1969, at ber day in 1958, when Provence’s historic Maz- Céramiques du Pablo Picasso proudly artist’s arin neighborhood, just Château; the cubist announced to his down the street from pizza at La Passagère. friends that he’d just the Granet Mu- bought Cézanne’s Provence seum, 28 à Aix is fresh grilled fish, famed Provence mountain, the an exquisitely re- served at the wa- Sainte-Victoire, he wasn’t talking inspirations, furbished 17th- ter’s edge about a canvas. The Spanish artist, century private (% 33-493-61-33-7 Musee de l’Ermitage, Saint-Petersbourg home, recently who’d vowed never to return to his from local s 4; www. native country as long as Franco converted into an plagekeller.com). was in power, bought not only the pottery artsy four-room Seafood aficiona- imposing 17th-century Château de guest house. dos can find authen- Vauvenargues in this tiny village, to Cézanne’s Rooms from Œ240 in tic but pricey bouilla- but also 1,000 hectares of surround- summer baisse at Chez Nounou in % Claude Germain Yokohama Museum of Art ( 33-4-42-54-82-01; ing pine-covered scrub and red rock Succession Picasso 2009, Golfe-Juan for about Œ65 a s s mountain s that form part of the northern face www.28aaix.com). bowl (% 33-493-63-71-73; www. of Mont Sainte-Victoire, a land- Set back in a wooded park on nounou.fr). scape painted more than 30 times tered into multiple points of view.” 1937 Paris World Exposition—in If you’re browsing for ceram- by Cézanne, who was born in nearby One section of the show is de- front of the castle overlooking the ics in Vallauris, book a table on Aix-en-Provence. voted to Picasso’s mirroring of Cé- countryside. The artist died on the outdoor terrace on the leafy This year marks the 50th anniver- zanne through common objects and April 8, 1973, at age 92 in Mougins, square at the Café Llorca, just be- sary of Picasso’s self-imposed exile forms, from still-lifes of fruit, white and is buried alongside Jacqueline, side Picasso’s bronze, “Man with in the Vauvenargues castle, where porcelain and skulls, to harlequins who committed suicide in 1986. De- a Sheep,” the perfect spot for the artist lived with his second wife, and mythological bathers, along spite the 45-year age gap between lunch after a visit to the artist’s Jacqueline, from 1959 to 1961, so with Picasso’s successive muses them, Jacqueline and Picasso were “War and Peace” fresco in the that he could devote himself en- (from the early Cubist years in Paris together for the last 20 years of his chapel just steps away. The tirely to painting. The couple had with Fernande Olivier to Françoise life, and for 17 of those years she menu features authentic been living in the Villa Californie, in Gilot and second wife Jacqueline was the only woman he painted. Provençal and Italian dishes. A the lush residential heights of Roque) all seated in an armchair, Mougins, once a charmingly ru- three-course menu without wine Cannes, since 1955. But the construc- just as Madame Cézanne had posed ral village but now a considerably is around Œ30 tion of high-rise apartments was ru- for her husband in the late 1880s. gentrified maze of cobblestone the outskirts of Aix, La Pauline is (% 33-493-64-30-42). ining the sea view, and Picasso was Surprisingly, the two men never streets lined with art galleries and a charming five-room bed-and- Where to shop bothered by tourists with binocu- actually met face to face, even restaurants, is worth a trip for its breakfast, housed in a stately lars, hoping to catch a glimpse of though they shared the same Pari- Museum of Photography mansion built for Napoleon’s sis- Directly across from the Pic- the great master. Sleepy Vauvenar- sian art dealer, Ambroise Vollard. Pi- (% 33-4-93-75-85-67). The superb ter, Pauline Borghese. Doubles asso Museum in Antibes, the tiny gues—which, even today, has fewer casso, who also had a sharp eye as a permanent collection includes por- Œ200 (% 33-4-42-17-02-60; www. gallery Céramiques du Château than 700 residents—seemed the collector, bought four Cézanne oils traits of Picasso by André Villers as Henry Ely - Aix lapauline.fr). sells a small but stunning collec- s ideal retreat. and one watercolor, three of which well as other famed photographers tion of signed Picasso ceramics, To commemorate Picasso’s ar- are in this show. including Robert Doisneau, David Where to eat including unique pieces and num- rival in Cézanne country, the Granet Compared to the Granet exhibi- Douglas Duncan, Lucien Clergue Above, the interior and exterior The Hotel Belles Rives’s res- bered limited editions created in Museum in Aix-en-Provence will on tion, the Château de Vauvenargues and Jacques-Henri Lartigue. of the Château de Vauvenargues. taurant, La Passagère, serves a Vallauris between 1947-71 Monday open a major summer exhi- tour is a more intimate experience, If you’re heading south before Top left, Picasso’s ‘Buste de la “Picasso by Llorca” dinner, an ed- (% 33-493-33-11-11; www.ceram- AFP bition entitled “Picasso-Cézanne,” bringing visitors into the artist’s pri- June 15, don’t miss the current show fermière’ (1908); top right, Paul ible cubist extravaganza. The iquesduchateau.com). with around 100 paintings, draw- vate world (tickets can be pur- at the Musée Picasso, housed in the Cézanne’s ‘Madame Cézanne en menu includes an amuse-bouche In the midst of Vallauris’s ings, watercolors, engravings and chased on the day of the visit in a 12th-century stone Château Grim- robe rayée’ (1883-85); left, of foie gras, a specially designed touristy main drag, a riot of sculptures of works by both artists BY LANIE GOODMAN booth at 36 Rue Cardinal, near the aldi in Antibes. “The Era of Renewal, Picasso’s ‘Nature morte aux cubist pizza, sea bass with olives kitsch water fountains, jugs and as they evolved throughout their Place des Dauphins in Aix-en- 1945-1949” documents the artist’s crâne et trois oursins’ (1947). and an egg-shaped chocolate birds, is the Galerie Sassi-Milici, lifetimes. But the biggest buzz Special to The Wall Street Journal Provence; % 33-442-16-11-61). Ex- return from Paris, where he had pastry; Œ90 without wine. one of the few serious ceramics about the show goes beyond the mu- pect to see a mythological pipe-play- spent the war, to the shimmering Succession Picasso 2009 La Garoupe Beach, the small workshops and galleries that re- seum walls. From May 27 to Sept. ing faun painted on the bathroom shores of the Mediterranean with s sandy cove on the Cap d’Antibes, main today. Co-owner Domin- 27, for the first time, the Château de lic sculptures by contemporary Picasso. From June 27 to mid-Octo- wall, and personal objects strewn drawings, paintings, photos and ex- which he modeled into his first manent collection in the Picasso Mu- bears little resemblance to the ique Sassi learned his trade in Vauvenargues (privately owned by Southern French artist, Bernard ber, the Château-Museum in Vallau- about, such as the mandolin the art- amples of his newly found passion, three pieces—two tiny bulls and a seum in Antibes, which includes the tranquil paradise of the 1920s, the Madoura atelier (now Catherine Hutin, Jacqueline’s Pagès, or attend a kid-friendly mini- ris will feature an homage to Picas- ist bought while waiting for a bull- ceramics (www.antibes-juanlespins. faun’s head,” recalls gallery owner famed “Ulysses and the Sirens,” cre- but the sea has remained the closed), standing side by side daughter) is opening its doors to circus performance under a tent, so’s longtime pal, poet Blaise Cen- fight in Arles and subsequently com/fr/culture/musees/picasso). and potter, Dominique Sassi, who ated in the postwar years while the same improbable shade of tur- with the great master. The collec- small groups of visitors—only 18 where juggling and acrobatic work- drars. painted into his still-lifes. His ate- The collection reflects the painter’s later apprenticed alongside the art- artist was holed up in his atelier at quoise and emerald, and it’s a tion features works by Picasso’s people per group, plus the official shops will also be held. But the main attraction is the lier, with enormous bay windows exuberance and hope during this ist. “The following summer, Picasso the Grimaldi castle. great place to dine with your potter friends, including Roger guide—for a tour of the artist’s aus- In June and July, the streets of Granet’s “Picasso-Cézanne” show. facing west, has been meticulously postwar period of peace and his un- returned to Madoura, delighted to A highlight of the current show toes in the sand. The Restaurant Capron, and contemporary art- tere, sprawling retreat. Aix-en-Provence will come alive The exhibition is divided themati- preserved: easels, pots of Ripolin alloyed happiness with his compan- find that they’d fired the pieces and are graceful pencil drawings of a César at the Plage Keller features ists (% 33-493-64-65-71; www. The exhibition and the castle with outdoor performances by danc- cally, beginning with Cézanne’s vi- house paint, splattered terra cotta ion at the time, the young painter had put them aside. That did it for dancing Françoise, half woman, half tasty Provençal fare, salads and sassi-milici.com). tour form the core of a Picasso- ers, musicians, open-air documen- sionary influence on modern art tiled floors, and two painted chairs Françoise Gilot (who would bear him, he couldn’t wait to learn every- flower, reminiscent of the odal- themed summer extravaganza of ex- tary films on the artist, as well as Succession Picasso 2009 (Matisse called him “the father of us covered with Picasso’s darkened pal- him two children, Claude and Pal- thing he could from the Ramiés, and isques of his friend and rival, Mat- hibits, open-air concerts, theater costumed parades, inspired by Pic- s all”), and in particular, a look at how ette of yellows, somber greens, reds oma), and also marks a crucial cre- ended up making around 4,000 ce- isse, who lived in nearby Nice. Mont and street festivities throughout asso’s predilection for harlequins the painter’s geometrical patch- and blacks, as if the artist had gone ative turning point. ramic works during his lifetime.” This is hardly a coincidence. Dur- Sainte Mougins Antibes the south of France. Aix-en- and his collaboration with Erik work landscapes of rust, ochre and off for a stroll. In July 1946, Picasso and Gilot Single-handedly revitalizing the ing his lifetime of feverish protean Victoire Vauvenargues Cannes Provence, the epicenter of the cul- Satie in “Parade,” performed in 1917 green served as a catalyst for Picas- Everything—from the seven- settled in a tiny apartment in Golfe- town’s moribund ceramics industry production, Picasso found a unique tural offerings (www.picasso- by the Ballets Russes. so’s Cubist experimentation and minute film of the artist painting in Juan. Have a walk on the beach with his whimsical bird-shaped way of creating things never seen be- Aix-en-Provence aix2009.fr), hosts an exhibit of pho- Elsewhere, further west in techniques. his atelier to his bedroom, adorned where Picasso and Françoise often jugs, Picasso was elected an honor- fore and destroying things as they’d FRANCE tographs of Picasso taken by his Provence, Picasso will be celebrated Museu Picasso, Barcelona, “For Cézanne, the break with tra- only with a Catalonian flag-in- strolled, then spend the afternoon ary citizen of Vallauris. Don’t miss a never been destroyed. He moved Vallauris friend, Lucien Clergue, displayed in in a multimedia open-air show at s dition involves tilted planes and the spired, red-and-yellow-striped shopping for ceramics in the nearby trip to the village’s tiny medieval through the history of art by break- Golfe Juan Area of Juan-les-Pins Cézanne’s studio, and another 50 Les Baux de Provence’s Cathedral of Top, Pablo Picasso in April 1949, relationship between objects—the headboard and blood-red-and-black hilltop village, Vallauris. It was chapel (in the courtyard of the vil- ing rules and reinventing the paint- Marseille detail rarely seen photos taken by Jacque- Images. There are also several with a ceramic work made in dish of apples on the bunched up ta- rug designed by Picasso—feels like here, during an annual pottery fair, lage castle, which now houses the ings of others: Velázquez, Ingres, line Picasso, hung in Aix’s Vendôme shows featuring Picasso’s many his studio in Vallauris; above, blecloth doesn’t have the same per- a discovery of his rarely seen inti- that the artist met Suzanne and Magnelli Museum and the Ceramic Delacroix, Manet and, of course, Cé- Pavilion. You can also rediscover Cé- friends: the Edgar Mélik Museum in the artist’s 1917 painting spective as the sugar bowl next to mate space. Georges Ramié, who ran the Ma- Museum) where Picasso was given zanne. zanne’s country manor, Le Jas de Cabriès, near Aix, is devoting its ‘Arlequin,’ part of the it,” says the museum’s head curator, The tour ends with Picasso’s doura ceramics workshop. “They carte blanche to paint a colossal po- For, as Picasso himself once 0 30km Bouffan, and stroll through the vast summer exhibition to poet and ‘Picasso-Cézanne’ exhibition in Bruno Ely. “For Picasso, it will be the tomb—marked only by a copy of a took Picasso up to their atelier and litical fresco, “War and Peace.” wrote: “Bad artists copy. Good art- Mediterranean Sea park, lined with monumental metal- painter Max Jacob and his link with Aix-en-Provence. fragmentation of one object, shat- bronze that Picasso exhibited at the gave him a bit of the local red clay, You’ll also want to revisit the per- ists steal.”

W8 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 W9 v Food & Drink v Design

Kaiseki, the art you can eat Kiyomizu-Dera Temple In tough times, designers get crafty

By Stan Sesser By Helen Kirwan-Taylor Kyoto, Japan Special to The Wall Street Journal HE MEAL AT famed Kikunoi HE WEIRD AND OFTEN won- restaurant was cutting-edge: derful objects on show at the T12 courses made up of 60 dif- TSalone Internazionale del Mo- ferent items, each fanatically bile, Milan’s annual furniture fair, sourced using the freshest and high- provoke a lot of discussion and head- Panoramic Images/Getty Images est-quality ingredients available. scratching but they don’t always And in the trendiest fashion, the en- show up in shop windows. It’s only Moooi’s ‘Brave tire meal, which stretched to almost in the weeks following the fair (this New World’ lamp. three hours, weighed in at less than Kyoto year’s event ran from April 22-27), 1,000 calories. as the design companies process or- Welcome to kaiseki (kye- ders, that it’s possible to gauge the Alex Hellum’s Ulrik SEK-ee), the original fixed-price travel tips real trends for summer/fall. ash stool for SCP. tasting menu, whose roots in Kyoto “Milan is really an exercise in go back almost 500 years to the Jap- Getting there branding and PR rather than sell- anese tea ceremony’s origins and ing,” says Carlo Urbinati, co- The Shinkansen, Japan’s the practices of meat-shunning Bud- founder of the Italian lighting com- high-speed train system, dhist monks. Today, the tradition is pany Foscarini, whose new prod- whisks you to Kyoto from To- a major inspiration for the multi- ucts at the fair included “Tress,” a kyo in just over two hours for course degustation menus now pop- lamp made of interwoven resin about $130 each way. It ular in the West, at places like El threads by Marc Sadler (£874 for a leaves from Tokyo Station Bulli in Spain, Joël Robuchon in Las large floor-standing light), due in and Shinagawa Station. Vegas and the French Laundry in Cal- stores this September. ifornia’s Napa Valley. Chefs from Where to stay But even at the fair itself the ef- world-class restaurants make fre- fect of the economic downturn was Kyoto is filled with tiny ho- quent pilgrimages to Kikunoi to ex- clear, as manufacturers sought to tels and Japanese inns (ryo- perience the work of the 56-year- dors to your dining room, which is tone down their collections—which Top to bottom, a kans). They needn’t be expen- old chef, Yoshihiro Murata. spacious, carpeted with tatami mats in past years have included such first course featuring sive. On my last night, I paid Kyoko Murata, Mr. Murata’s wife and empty, except for a low, black- flights of fancy as 175-centimeter 11 items at Kikunoi less than $100 at a downtown and Kikunoi’s maître d’, says cele- lacquer table in the center. You sit crystal globe chandeliers and giant restaurant in Kyoto; business hotel for a cramped brated guests are a fairly regular oc- on a pillow leaning against a leather mosaic airplanes. This year, “util- a kaiseki dish at room and an airliner-size currence there. “Ferran Adrià backrest, with a view through a ity” is the new watchword. “If some- Peter Marigold’s SUM Guilo Guilo; and the bathroom. On the upscale comes here often and we also eat at glass wall of the illuminated garden. thing looks cultivated and intellec- shelves for SCP. hip restaurant’s side, two Kyoto hotels com- El Bulli. They’re definitely influ- Your legs rest under the table in a tual it will sell, no problem,” says Pa- dinner scene. bine luxury with an authentic enced by kaiseki food,” she says. I pit, heated to keep your feet warm. olo Moroni, co-founder of the Milan feeling of being in Japan. rattle off the names of a few other The meal of seafood and vegeta- based Sawaya & Moroni. “If it’s gim- is appealing in these angst-ridden They are the Hyatt Regency Michelin three-star chefs, American bles doesn’t disappoint. With mini- micky, not at all. Clients are looking times.” Kyoto, 644-2 Sanjyusan- and French. “Of course they’ve mal cooking and seasoning so as not for things they can live with for a B&B Italia—a company usually gendo Mawari-cho, Higash- eaten here,” she replies. to mask the quality of the ingredi- long time.” in the technological forefront, with iyama-ku (% 81-75-541-1234; Kikunoi has been serving kaiseki ents, every bite is a revelation. In British designer Tom Dixon, who items usually made in factories—un- about $350) and Brighton Ho- meals since it opened in 1911. Mr. one course, nine items are arranged showed his aptly named Utility col- characteristically showed off such tel Kyoto, Nakadachiuri, Shin- Patricia Urquiola’s Adrià, whose avant-garde “molecu- on a plate like a rock garden. Some lection in Milan, is at the forefront ‘Quilt’ chair by Ronan and Erwan low-tech items as the Philippines-in- machi-dori, Kamigyo-ku ‘Crinoline’ chair. lar cuisine” has led many critics to stand alone (fava beans, salt-pick- of a new design emphasis on no-non- Bouroullec for Established and Sons. spired “Crinoline” woven chairs by (% 81-75-441-4411; about call his restaurant the best in the led squid, lily bulb petals), others in sense, eco-friendly products. “I call Patricia Urquiola in both natural $280). If price is no object world, praised Kikunoi in the intro- combination (grilled squid with sea- it back to basics,” he says. “I think and synthetic materials (from and you want a private kai- duction he wrote for Mr. Murata’s weed and egg yolk, a skewer of aba- the delusions of grandeur [of other Moooi’s “Brave New World” lamp Table, Bench, Chair by Sam power. “From being an unfashion- £1,338 in rope; from £1,194 in poly- seki dinner in your own room cookbook, “Kaiseki: The Exquisite lone, shrimp and avocado). designers] have passed.” His pieces (from Œ2,108) features oak battens Hecht/Industrial Facility (£850- able fringe activity just a couple of ethylene fiber weaving). “I love at a luxurious ryokan where Cuisine of Japan’s Kikunoi Restau- During my visit, much of the include the Off Cut stool (£145), and pegs and cast iron counter- £1,650). British manufacturer SCP years ago, craft has now been em- working using ‘old materials’ in a English is spoken, Hiiragiya rant” (Kodansha International, meaning of this sophisticated meal made from bits of discarded factory weights, with all the wires showing; called its new affordable collection braced by cutting-edge designers new way or new materials using tra- Ryokan fills the bill. Naka- 2006). “While in the West we cook would have passed over my head timber; and the Slab bar stool it’s almost like a wooden erector “Boxed.” The 16-piece collection in- and manufacturers as a viable alter- ditional techniques,” Ms. Urquiola hakusancho, Fuyacho Aneroji- with the senses, the heart, and logic, had I not been dining with Yoshiko (£350), made of oak and cast iron set. Established and Sons’ collec- cludes a simple ash stool (£118) by native to industrially produced says. Agaru, Nakagyo-ku the Japanese add to this an extra Isshiki, a curator of modern art who (www.tomdixon.net). tion was displayed within a curved young designer Alex Hellum and goods,” says Marcus Fairs, editor-in- Other companies are focusing on (% 81-75-221-1136; $300 to component . . . the soul. Nowhere is spends a lot of time in Kyoto and has Scrap wood was everywhere in wall of crude, hammered-together cherry wood-shelving units by Peter chief of online design magazine products made from “sustainable” $900 a person, including kai- this better exemplified than by the made food her passion. In our first Milan. The Italian lighting company wood designed by Alasdhair Willis Marigold (£215 for three), which Dezeen.com. “Even though craft is materials in ways that benefit devel- seki dinner). work of Yoshiro Murata,” he wrote. course, as an example, a piece of the Intrecciodilinee showed its square and Sebastian Wrong. It included will be put into production this sum- in many ways a branch of the luxury oping-world economies. The “Shad- After spending three days in Ky- grilled squid was coated with finely Where to eat light “La Singola” (Œ237) within an the (Michelin-man inspired) “Quilt” mer. industry—as the pieces tend to be owy” chairs by Tord Boontje for Mo- oto, where visitors can eat varia- chopped seaweed and cut to resem- Kikunoi is the most fa- actual crate. The L’Altro light (Œ287) chair by Ronan and Erwan Bouroul- The use of craft techniques in de- expensive—the perceived humility roso (Œ1,000) are hand-woven by tions of kaiseki for breakfast, lunch ble the curled stem of a flower. Sev- mous of the kaiseki restau- came surrounded in simple timber. lec (£1,800-£6,500), and the sober sign looks like a trend with staying and sustainability of crafted objects fishermen in Senegal. and dinner, I began to see why this eral courses later, steamed tilefish rants, and the dinner is a centuries-old cuisine holds so much was accompanied by a warabi fern- good value. Gion Maruyama, fascination for the most inventive head—which, Ms. Isshiki pointed Makuzugahara, Higash- chefs of Europe and America. Kai- out, looked like that piece of squid. iyama-ku (% 81-75-561-0015; seki is a tonic to the senses from ev- Since the essence of kaiseki is $150). For a hip, informal kai- ery direction, and something no seasonality, Kikunoi’s menu seki, try Guilo Guilo, located Lessons from the spring auctions Western restaurant I’ve ever dined changes completely every month. in an old wooden house. Nish- By Kelly Crow in can approach. It demands perfec- “The Japanese really want to get the ikiyamachi-dori, Matsubara sons learned this time around: tention to the shifting art market placing bets on unknown artists, tion from the freshness and prepara- idea of being part of the season,” Sagaru, Shimogyo-ku HE ART MARKET may have Bigger isn’t always better but still harbors high hopes for his but this time they retreated to clas- tion of the ingredients to the dishes Mr. Wilcox, the aspiring chef, ex- just laid down its new floor. egg: “It’s a symbol of possibility.” sic artists like Camille Pissarro and Stan Sesser/The Wall Street Journal (3) (% 81-75-343-7070, $37). T they are served on. The noise in plained after my dinner in mid- The well-known Hyotei of- The major spring art auctions that During the recent art boom, auc- Due diligence required Alexander Calder, whose perches some New York restaurants makes tea ceremony was too intense to be ples ending with a kaiseki dinner at April. “Now they want cherry blos- fers a kaiseki breakfast. concluded last weekend in New tion houses wowed new collectors in art history are likely secure. it impossible to concentrate on your sipped on an empty stomach. He Kikunoi is an experience visitors soms on their plate. Two weeks ago, Kusakawa-cho 35, Nanzenji, York were the smallest round in by attaching eye-popping prices to Collectors did their homework Four mobiles by Calder sold meal; kaiseki diners sit in a tranquil, started serving small plates of food won’t quickly forget. it was buds from the cherry tree, Sakyo-ku (% 81-75-771-4116, terms of total sales in five years, room-sized works by artists like for these sales, dissecting artists’ briskly during the sales, some- private room and gaze onto a Japa- to make drinking the tea more enjoy- The simplicity of a kaiseki dinner and a week from now they won’t $45). The bento box lunch at but collectors have begun ventur- Jeff Koons and Takashi Murakami. individual markets beforehand to times following seven-way bid- nese garden while polite, efficient able. With Kyoto home to Japan’s masks its complexity. In contrast to want them at all.” Yasuku Gozen is a generous ing back into the market in search But collectors’ wallets and wall see whether their offerings were ding wars involving major collec- waitresses in kimonos cater to ev- great tea masters, kaiseki flowered Western cuisines, there are no fancy There are some variations. The preview of the kaiseki dinner. of art bargains. New York’s two spaces aren’t as accommodating fresh to the marketplace and repre- tors like Eli Broad. Sotheby’s led ery need. The cost, at Kikunoi, is here, too—one of the ways food, art sauces, except for an occasional dip- restaurant Hyotei serves a kaiseki Yasaka-dori, Gion Miyugawa chief auction houses—Christie’s In- anymore, so auction houses had to sented career highlights. Many the way, helping a Chicago collec- $150 a person—a bargain compared and religion have converged to ping sauce. Presentations might be breakfast, including chicken meat- Cho, Kyogaki ternational and Sotheby’s— hustle to offload their largest, and fans of Alberto Giacometti’s spin- tor sell Calder’s 1934 mobile, “Eb- with, say, the $275 tasting menu at make Kyoto the spiritual and culi- elegant, but they’re always uncom- balls covered in chopped seaweed, (% 81-75-531-6600). brought in about $408.8 million priciest, lots. At Sotheby’s, Mr. dly sculptures knew, for example, ony Sticks in Semi-Circle,” for $3.4 Thomas Keller’s Per Se in New York. nary center of Japan. plicated. Food doesn’t arrive in tow- sushi wrapped in a cherry leaf and combined from their semiannual Koons’s dealer Larry Gagosian that his gold-brown bust of a wavy- million, double its high estimate. Derek Wilcox, a 32-year-old A visitor could be happily occu- ering stacks; the waiter never says the best hard-cooked egg I’ve ever sales of Impressionist, modern stepped in and bought the artist’s haired man, “Buste de Diego (Stele Buyers used these sales to flex American, has worked in Kikunoi’s pied for a month visiting the city’s that the “Chef” wants you to eat a had. The kaiseki at Guilo Guilo, and contemporary art, a total that van-sized Easter egg sculpture, III),” had been tucked away in an es- newfound leverage over sellers, lob- kitchen for two years at no pay to more than 1,000 Buddhist temples particular dish by starting with a meanwhile, is positively radical. In inched over its $382 million low “Baroque Egg with Bow (Tur- tate for over three decades. It sold Christie's bing up bids on artworks with few learn how kaiseki is properly done. and Shinto shrines, many with exten- certain ingredient. And there’s no an old house with timbered ceilings, mark but represented a fraction of quoise/Magenta),” for $5.4 million at Christie’s for $7.6 million, over Tamara de Lempicka’s ‘Portrait de other takers and slashing bid His hours—7 a.m. to 11 p.m. six days sive grounds and gardens. Dozens of fuss about wine; while a wine list is the place hops as waiters bound up last spring’s $1.4 billion total. with fees, below its $6 million esti- its $6.5 million high estimate. Madame M’ (1932) sold at Christie’s amounts when they sensed victory. a week—are grueling. He plans to ryokans—traditional Japanese usually available, the house sake steep steps with dishes on their Smaller Phillips de Pury & Co. mate. By contrast, six bidders at Sotheby’s, meanwhile, had trou- for $6.1 million. Auctioneers accustomed to field- open a kaiseki restaurant in the U.S. inns, some serving kaiseki meals— complements the meal perfectly. arms. Sea bass roe with coffee-fla- brought in $12.3 million in its two- Christie’s fought over the artist’s ble stamping out rumors that its Gi- ing bids at $100,000 found them- in seven to 10 years—the amount of are an alternative to traditional ho- The evening at Kikunoi begins on vored potato sauce, a rice ball day auction of contemporary art, toaster-sized train engine, “Jim acometti cat sculpture, “Le Chat,” selves accepting bid increments as time he figures he’ll need to learn all tels. Many of Kyoto’s old buildings a note some might find jarring. A topped with foie gras sauce and tofu below its $17.5 low estimate. Bean-J.B. Turner Engine,” with a had been shopped privately before Schreiber Jacoby. Sotheby’s says it little as $5,000. “People are a little the principles and techniques. have been demolished and replaced young, kimono-clad woman greets skin, and a panna cotta of green Christie’s won this drastically telephone bidder eventually win- its auction. That work, priced to sell hasn’t shopped the piece. bit scared and confused about the Kaiseki’s elaborate style dates with ugly concrete boxes, but there you at the door on her knees; as you peas with honey ice cream and deep- downsized round by selling $248.8 ning it for $2.3 million, twice its for at least $16 million, failed to sell. Safety in the classics art market,” collector Abdallah Cha- back to the 16th century and the tea are still enough old wooden houses remove your shoes, she touches her fried lily roots—this is 21st-century million, besting Sotheby’s $160 high estimate. “The cat had been on the prowl,” tila says, “but for me that means master Sen no Rikyu, who thought around to turn a walk into a discov- head to the floor. Then she escorts kaiseki, and at $37 it’s both inexpen- million total. Here are a few les- Mr. Koons said he is paying at- said New York art adviser Beverly Collectors spent recent seasons there are buying opportunities.” the powdered green tea used in the ery. A day of visiting Kyoto’s tem- you through the blond-wood corri- sive and fabulous. Joe LeMonier

W10 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 W7 v Sports Putting tips from the master A chilling effect on Scotch purists’ hearts

Houston ICHARD PATERSON—re- Mark Reynier still complains: “We lose richness and depth of flavor,” HE RULES SAY you have to nowned whisky blender with go to all the lengths to provide hand- she says, “but you gain refreshment putt the ball with a stick. I’d RScotland’s Whyte & Mackay selected, natural whisky, unadulter- and smoothness.” ‘Troll it with my hand if I Ltd., home of such single malts as the ated by additives, sweeteners or col- American culture’s emphasis on could.” That’s the short-and-sweet Dalmore and Isle of Jura—has come orings,” he says, “only for the refreshment has something to do of Jackie Burke Jr.’s putting philoso- to dread ordering whisky in Amer- drinker to go and add chlorine and with the climate. “That’s what we do phy, and it explains the promise he ica. “Ask for Scotch in the U.S. and be- fluoride,” chemicals commonly in America,” says Ms. Greene, em- made on the phone when I asked if I fore you know it you hear that horri- found in frozen tap water. bracing her patrimony. “We put ice could drop by Champions Golf Club ble clink, clink, clink of ice going in So there is a move to elevate in our drinks.” here last Monday for a putting les- the glass,” he says in a voice that’s Scotch on the rocks by improving Even Mr. Paterson grudgingly ac- son. “If it takes me longer than five two parts exasperation and one part the rocks. Most ice at home suffers knowledges that people should, at minutes to show you how to putt, I’d burr. “As far as I’m concerned, if from chlorine and/or the smelly the end of the day, drink their better quit,” he said. you’ve got a nice 12-year-old Scotch taint of frozen foods. Ice at bars and whisky the way they like it. He just restaurants tends to be in little asks that, before you decide that chips or discs that melt too fast. The you prefer Scotch on the rocks, you Golf Journal How’s Your Drink? best bars have machines that pro- try it his way as well. JOHN PAUL NEWPORT ERIC FELTEN duce big, square-sided cubes. The Start with a decent room-temper- Macallan distillery is taking it one ature dram: “You should hold the step further by encouraging bars to whisky in your mouth, first on your In the view of Mr. Burke, whose whisky, there’s nothing more ridicu- acquire its “ice ball” machine, which tongue, then under your tongue, 16 victories on the PGA Tour include Courtesy of USGA Archives lous than putting ice in it.” crafts a crystalline sphere of frozen then around your mouth,” and only a Masters and a PGA Championship, hand on the grip and moves me these days, sometimes using high- Mr. Paterson is hardly the only water slightly smaller than a base- then let it slip down your throat. As people’s putting problems stem through a few strokes. “This is what speed photography linked to com- whisky purist to rail against the per- ball, served one to a glass. At home, an exercise in tasting, it’s not a bad from thinking too much about it. “If slow feels like. Exaggerate the slow- puter software. “I don’t want any nicious effects of ice in Scotch. Kevin the best bet is to make fresh ice us- routine, though I suspect most of us you can roll the ball across the green ness. You’ve got to trust the timing. systems. I don’t want you to have to Erskine, who writes about whisky at ing spring water in a tray that would rather relax and enjoy the with your hand, you can roll it with a Let the putter have its way,” he said. remember anything,” Mr. Burke theScotchBlog.com, says that when makes big cubes. whisky than make the experience an putter. It’s the same deal,” he said. That evening, on the carpet of told me. “Just see your break line, drinking Scotch neat “I may add Less persnickety about ice is exercise in sensory analysis. Mr. Burke seldom talks about put- my hotel room, I practiced rolling walk up to the ball and put a good varying amounts of water depend- Heather Greene, who has made an Still, I think the ice-dependent ting the ball, he talks about “rolling” balls with my hand and began to feel roll on it. Don’t putt to sink it, putt ing on the whisky, the weather and unlikely name for herself in whisky drinkers among us will find it illumi- it. He does it mostly with his right what he was getting at. When I got to make a good stroke.” Most golf- my mood—but never an ice cube.” circles. It’s rare for an American to nating to do their own side-by-side hand, the same way he demon- quick, or jerked my hand forward be- ers worry too much about how oth- But it is Mr. Paterson who, in the gain credibility in the world of tasting. Take a good, straightfor- strates standing sideways to the tar- fore releasing the ball, I couldn’t ers will perceive them if they goof Scotch tasting seminars he hosts Scotch, and rarer still for a woman ward single malt. Pour two glasses: get and swinging the right arm with control distance or direction nearly up, Mr. Burke believes. “You’ve got around the world, expresses his aver- to do so. She earned a reputation for one without ice, and another embel- his hand low to the ground, releas- as well as when I trusted the pendu- to play with a certain recklessness. sion to the practice by flinging a having a smart palate while working lished with a large cube or two of ice ing the ball from the fingers with a lum motion of my arm swing. “That Nothing’s a sure shot. I’ve never bucket of ice across the room. in Scotland on the Scotch Malt made from spring water. Take a follow through that rotates the was Hogan’s big problem when his seen anybody who was any good try The purists’ complaint is that Whisky Society’s tasting panel. Now taste of the tepid malt. It will seem hand closed, or to the left. The only Jackie Burke Jr. putts last week putting went bad,” Mr. Burke said to be sure about anything. You just whereas a small splash of spring wa- she’s back in the U.S. as a “brand am- at first sip rather fiery. difference when holding a putter is at his club in Houston; right, about his good friend and fellow put the ball out there and hope to ter seems to open up a whisky, re- bassador” for Glenfiddich, and her Then taste the iced whisky. It will Jupiter Images that the right hand is a couple of during his PGA Tour career, Texan. “He started trying to force it. the good Lord it’s your turn. It goes leasing its full bouquet and flavor, return home has challenged some of seem soothing, a respite from the feet above the ground, on the shaft. he hits his way out of a trap. He let me mess with his putting a lit- back to trust.” ice tends to do the opposite. The Scotch in the States was in a High- suited for drinking with ice. Even the notions she acquired in her ap- spirit’s alcohol burn. But then go But the palm of the right hand and tle, but I couldn’t help him.” I haven’t had a chance yet to put tongue is anesthetized by the cold, ball—a tall glass of whisky, ice and now, after a couple of decades of em- prenticeship. back to the neat Scotch. You’ll find the putter head work so closely to- Robert Seale for The Wall Street Journal That ball-rolling session also Mr. Burke’s putting philosophy to and the whisky itself acquires a soda water. It was toward the end of phasis on single-malt connoisseur- “When I first came back from that it blossoms with flavor in your gether, and in parallel, that they his torso and right upper arm. ter—and a fair number of them have helped me understand the virtue of the test in an actual round. For the smoothness that glosses over the the 1940s that the phrase “on the ship, Scotch ads in the U.S. still tend Scotland, I was in a traditionalist mouth. If you keep going back and seem to Mr. Burke like a single unit. All of this Mr. Burke showed me, taken putting lessons from Mr. letting the palm and fingers rotate pros, who have the time to work deeper complexities of the dram. rocks” emerged to describe doing to feature ice in the glass. mind-set, steadfast and stubborn forth, I suspect you will perceive the “If I know where the face of my as he said he would, in the first five Burke. Writer Dan Jenkins, in his closed after releasing the ball, as hard on every facet of grip, stance, But that particular sort of frigid without the fizzy dilution of seltzer. But that doesn’t mean Scotch against the idea of ice in whisky,” taste of the Scotch on the rocks as hand is, I know where the face of the minutes of our visit. He tried to new book “Jenkins at the Majors,” they are naturally inclined to do. Ini- alignment and stroke, maybe it’s gloss is just what many, perhaps By 1950 Whitney Bolton, a New York professionals are happy about the she says. But that changed after she narrower and perhaps even thinner putter is, so I don’t even have to make it sound simple, and it is, fun- which spans 60 years of reportage, tially, with a putter in my hand, I re- too haphazard; but for everyday most, Americans are looking for in Morning Telegraph columnist, way Americans drink their product. hosted a promotional tasting last with each sip. think about the putter,” he said. “I damentally—simple the way a waltz rates Mr. Burke one of the five best sisted. I wanted to push the ball players, who need something sim- their whisky. And it’s worth noting wrote that “in the last six months The Islay single-malt distillery summer at a New York bar where Which isn’t to say you won’t just imagine putting a good roll on was for Fred Astaire. But the devil, putters of all time, along with Tiger down the line, out toward the tar- ple and intuitive, it seems ideal. And that, in the U.S., the taste for drink- sales of sparkling water in all Bruichladdich nods to the durable the AC was on the blink. In the swel- want to drink your whisky that way. the ball with my putter the same as always, is in the details. Woods, Ben Crenshaw, Billy Casper get, but that is a fundamental viola- it certainly derives from Mr. Burke’s ing Scotch on the rocks was itself a brands have dropped alarmingly.” U.S. preference by offering a tering summer heat, the guests For me, Scotch on the rocks tastes way I do with my hand.” We spoke, to start with, in Mr. and Dave Stockton. tion. “You can’t try to guide the ball. own experiences growing up on move toward a more pure whisky ex- Before long, Scotch brands such “Rocks” version of its whisky spe- were fading—until she got a bucket more like a whisky cocktail than like As for the left hand, it just sits Burke’s wood-paneled office at “No, you put a hit on that one. Just focus on letting the putter hit hardpan Texas municipal courses in perience. In the first half of the 20th as the Famous Grouse were promot- cially selected to hold up to the icy of ice and started serving 12-year- whisky per se. And I just happen to lightly on the handle, he doesn’t Champions, the club he founded in Don’t do that,” Mr. Burke tells me the ball square, on a carpenter’s the 1930s and 1940s and playing on century the standard way to drink ing their whiskies as being well onslaught. But Bruichladdich exec old Glenfiddich on the rocks. “You like whisky cocktails. much care how. The right hand con- the late 1950s with his pal and fel- out on the practice putting green. 90-degree angle, and rotate on Tour primarily in the 1950s, when trols the stroke. Mr. Burke stands low Tour pro, Jimmy Demaret, who “Just let the weight of the putter through,” he said. When I objected greens were sketchy and inconsis- about 20 degrees open to the target died in 1983. Mr. Burke, at 86, is make the swing and you stay the that this required unrealistically tent. Pragmatically, intuitive put- line (although he doesn’t insist that white-haired, blue-eyed and sharp hell out of the way. Whatever speed perfect timing, he denied it. “You ting was what worked, and golf felt others do) and senses that he con- as a tack. He operates Champions, you go back with, that’s the speed don’t push the ball toward the tar- more like a game. trols the putter with what he calls which even these days has a waiting you want going forward.” After a get with a tennis racquet, you swing “I don’t see enough play in the the “muscle” along the crease be- list to get in, like a fief, one quirk be- lifetime of being told to accelerate through the ball and it goes straight game these days. Everybody’s try- Wine Notes: Making the most of a journey through Napa Valley tween his right-hand thumb and ing that a handicap of 14 or better is through the ball when putting, this because you know exactly where the ing to control every little thing,” he forefinger as they grip the handle. required for new members. The is hard to grasp, but it’s not really ac- face of that racquet is and you rely said. “When you dance, there aren’t By Dorothy J. Gaiter to the Silverado Trail and make an- fruitiness and complex maturity. The shaft nestles in his right palm 36-hole club has more single-digit celeration he’s worried about here, on timing. Same thing here.” any systems to it, you just go with and John Brecher other right, which will take you Maybe, with different weather, with his right fingertips barely in- handicappers than any other in the it’s getting quick—or “energizing” If some of this gets to seeming the music. That’s what I’d like to see E ARE GOING with the girls back toward where you started. you are drinking the wines with dif- volved. He “anchors” his stroke country—about 500 at last count, in- the stroke, as he puts it. technical, it’s actually the antithesis people do more, they need to swing Wto San Francisco this sum- It’s amazing how much calmer this ferent foods and they don’t pair as with a gentle connection between cluding 42 players at scratch or bet- He places a hand over my right of the way putting is often taught to the music of golf.” mer. We would love to have a cou- route is, far less crowded, but you well. And there’s always the possi- ple of recommendations for winer- will once again pass all sorts of win- bility that they’re just not as excit- ies to visit. We have never been eries whose names will bring a ing to you as they were when you Arbitrage there. smile. When you are almost all the first tasted them. ‘Ghosts of Berlin’ way back—it will take maybe 45 This is such an interesting ques- Echoes of Berlin Our neighbors sent us this note minutes or so—drop into Regusci tion that we called up Cornell Prof. This jazzy lament about the a couple of weeks ago. We have Vineyards, which has excellent Brian Wansink, an expert on food Singer Ute Lemper draws on Berlin Wall invokes the number The price of written extensive columns and wines and a lovely view. From psychology and author of “Mind- of days it stood: 10,260. Ms. Germany’s past as she looks to book chapters about visiting Napa there, head right back to San Fran- less Eating.” He said it could be Lemper, who recorded her first greens fees and Sonoma—and, of course, oth- cisco. two things: temperature and com- make her songs more personal album in a studio next to the wall, ers have written entire books—but panion foods. “The temperature of describes it in feminine terms in Local many people, like our neighbors, Why is it that those great red the room seems to tell us how Cabaret singer Ute Lemper has lived in her lyrics. “This is the way the City currency Œ have never visited the area and are wines that we were drinking this much we like wines and how high New York for more than a decade, but East German government spoke more interested in a quick day trip past winter, based on your recom- we rate them,” he told us. In a her music is rooted in her upbringing in of the wall—they called it ‘our New York $32 Œ24 just to get a feel of the place. So mendations, don’t taste nearly as study he conducted at the Univer-

a divided Germany. Born in Münster in lady.’ They must have been out of AFP Frankfurt Œ32 Œ32 this is what we sent our neighbors: good now that summer ap- sity of Illinois, the temperature of 1963, Ms. Lemper explored the music of their minds to do that,” she says. Dear Dara and Evan, your left. There is often a Milat be- will be beautiful—the vines will be proaches? a room was raised from 20 degrees the Weimar Republic, especially that of London £30 Œ34 We’d head to Napa, which is hind the counter, which is a throw- green and lush when you are there— —Henry and Kathy Hagan, to 28 degrees Celsius and partici- Jewish composers such as Kurt Weill, ‘Blood and Feathers’ ‘Nomad’ close and easy to visit. (There is a back to the days when tasting and there are all sorts of other in- Atlanta pants were asked to rate a heavy Brussels Œ50 Œ50 to create a dialogue with the past, she Based on a poem of the same name Beginning with an Arabic good map here: www.napavintners. rooms were staffed by winemakers teresting sights. Cabernet, a light Chardonnay and says. On her album, “Between Yesterday by Jacques Prévert, the track uses poem—which Ms. Lemper sang Paris Œ55 Œ55 com/wineries) Go on a weekday if and family members. Then just About nine miles from Milat Assuming proper storage, a rosé. “People’s evaluation of the and Tomorrow,” Ms. Lemper uses these show business as a metaphor for phonetically—the song ends with you can because traffic on week- travel right up Highway 29. You you will see Sterling Vineyards on there are many reasons, among Cabernet dropped dramatically as influences to experiment with more politics, Ms. Lemper says. The a poem in Yiddish. She says she Rome Œ55 Œ55 ends is particularly ugly. Plan to will see so many familiar names, your right (don’t stop there be- them: Perhaps the wines were the temperature of the room went personal songwriting. song features the accordion-like intended this collage of languages Hong Kong HK$1,365 Œ129 travel right up Highway 29, the from Louis Martini to Beringer. cause it will take too long during a made to drink young and they’re from [20 to 28] degrees and in- —John Jurgensen sound of a bandoneón. “Because to deliver a cross-cultural message main road. On your way in, past While many of these now are one-day trip, but it’s fun to see simply not as good as they were; or creased for the white wine,” he the words are rather dark, I needed “that love should mean love about Tokyo ¥23,550 Œ180 Mondavi and Rubicon Estate (Cop- owned by giant corporations, they from the road). Exactly where Ster- if they are fine wines, they are go- said. Listen to a song from ‘Between Yesterday the blood, the warmth, of that anything. It should be this shelter Note: Weekdays as a walk-on at a local course for 18 pola), stop at Milat Vineyards, a are still classic names that bring ling is located, at Dunaweal Lane, ing through a “dumb period,” be- —Melanie Grayce West and Tomorrow,’ at WSJ.com/Lifestyle. instrument,” she says. where all people can find a home.” holes; prices, including taxes, as provided by retailers charming little tasting room on back great memories. The drive make a right. Go just about a mile tween their phases of youthful contributed to this column. in each city, averaged and converted into euros.

W6 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 W11 DISTINCTIVE PROPERTIES &ESTATES v Books A (strange) tale of two cities In his new novel, China Miéville aims to connect fantasy to the real world

By Christopher John Farley First editions of ‘The Bonhams HINA MIÉVILLE LIKES when people call Maltese Falcon’ (estimate: $4,000-$6,000) and his work weird. ‘The Thin Man’ (estimate: $800-$1,200). C The 36-year-old British writer is the author of the new novel “The City & The City,” a murder mystery set in two cities, Ul Qoma and Beszel, one rich and one poor, where resi- dents have been trained to “unsee” each other in order to coexist. Watching the An architectural landmark estate on an approximate one-half acre, Mr. Miéville specializes in what he bills as “weird fiction”—fantastic tales that draw on wooded, ocean and coastline view parcel in the charming Woods Cove horror, science fiction and fantasy, but that detective books neighborhood of Laguna Beach, CA. Designed by noted architect, don’t fit comfortably into any of those genres. Mr. Miéville’s 2007 novel for younger readers, EGENDARY SLEUTHS—Arthur Conan J.Herbert Brownell, AIA, this treasured post-and-beam home with its “Un Lun Dun,” set in an alternate version of LDoyle’s Sherlock Holmes, Agatha pool house exemplifies a relaxed style and simplicity. $4,495,000 London, was a New York Times best seller. Christie’s Belgian genius Hercule Poirot or P. “The City & The City,” aimed at adults, has a D. James’s Scotland Yard detective-poet Coldwell Banker Previews International first printing of 35,000 copies. Adam Dalgliesh—will provide investigative The term “weird fiction” has its roots in mystery at London’s coming Antiquarian McAfoose, Bartek & Johnson the work of authors such as H.P.Lovecraft and Book Fair. Many of the 160 or so international www.mcafoose.com (949) 499-8957 Clark Ashton Smith, who wrote for the pulp book dealers gathered at the Olympia exhibi- magazine Weird Tales in the 1920s and 1930s. tion center from June 4-6 will offer crime and The publication was known for featuring spy fiction, one of the most popular areas of short stories about aliens, warriors and mon- the modern first-edition market. sters and other fantastic tales. Today, the Increasingly, crime fiction by major 20th- lines between fantasy, sci-fi and other kinds of fiction are more established. Mr. Miéville says he was drawn to the genre “because it Collecting tends to blur the boundaries.” MARGARET STUDER Born in Norwich, England, Mr. Miéville (his first name is pronounced like the country, his last name mee-AY- century authors is accepted as significant liter- ville) moved to Lon- ature in its pithy prose and its reflection of real- don as a child after ity, much as in the 19th-century classics of his parents sepa- Charles Dickens. The fair also has 19th-century rated. His father crime literature; London booksellers Jarndyce owned a “hippy book- will bring the “Moonstone” (1868) by Wilkie shop” and he was Collins, an early edition priced at £1,200. raised by his mother, There will be a large range of prices at the who taught French fair—even between different examples of the and Italian in second- same book by the same author. Lucius Books ary school. He grew will have two first-edition copies of Ian Flem- 5,383 sq. ft. Single-Story up reading science fic- ing’s first James Bond novel “Casino Royale” tion and fantasy (1953), one described as a “very good copy” Mansion in the Sky Kate Eshelby books by authors priced at £12,500 and another as a “better 10660 Wilshire Blvd., #1804 such as Joan Aiken, Norton Juster and Lewis than very good copy” at £17,500. Nigel Will- Los Angeles, California USA Carroll. iams will have a first edition without a dust He went on to earn a B.A. from Cambridge cover of Christie’s “Death on the Nile” (1937) in social anthropology, and a Ph.D. in interna- priced at £1,250. With dust jacket, says Mr. tional relations from the London School of True ‘Blue’: a life of Jean Rhys Williams, the book would cost around £8,000. Economics. He sold his first book, “King Rat,” Other factors include an author’s inscription as he was working on his Ph.D. (His thesis was By Colin Channer or signature. later published under the title “Between ORN ON THE Caribbean island of Do- A highlight at Royal Books of Baltimore Equal Rights: A Marxist Theory of Interna- Bminica in 1890, Jean Rhys, the will be an inscribed copy of hardboiled Ameri- tional Law.”) daughter of a Creole-Scotch mother and can writer Jim Thompson’s “Heed the Thun- “The City” may be “weird fiction,” but it is a Welsh physician, sailed to England in der” (1946), priced at $35,000. An inscribed rooted in the real world. The story takes the 1907 to be educated at a posh boarding work by Thompson is exceedingly rare as he form of a police procedural as the protago- school. shunned publicity and spent much of his life virtually cut off from other people. Also at With views of the Pacific Ocean, nist, Inspector Tyador Borlú of the Extreme Of course her story wouldn’t be as Crime Squad, tries to crack the murder case. interesting if things had worked out as Royal Books will be a first edition of James M. this 500 sq. meter 18th floor There are no elves or UFOs. her family had planned. She soon aban- Cain’s “The Postman Always Rings Twice” Penthouse has 4 bedrooms, 4.5 Instead, the story focuses on the lengths to doned the school. On her way to becom- (1934), priced at $9,500. A first-edition copy baths, a huge den & living room, which people will go to enforce borders and ing a writer in Paris (where she fell into of Rex Stout’s “Too Many Cooks” (1938), with formal dining and breakfast maintain separate cultural identities. Evoking the literary circle around the writer his New York orchid-loving detective Nero such writers as Franz Kafka and Mikhail Bulga- Ford Madox Ford), she took on various Wolfe, will be priced at $5,500. rooms, temp. controlled wine kov, Mr. Miéville asks readers to make concep- roles and jobs, including stints as a cho- At Nigel Williams, eight letters of corre- room , 6 balconies, walk-in closets, tual leaps and not to simply take flights of rus girl and a prostitute. She went on to spondence between American crime litera- art gallery, display cabinets, a fancy. author the 1966 novel “Wide Sargasso ture icon Raymond Chandler and his young gourmet kitchen, and hardwood, “You might call it an existential crime Sea,” a book many critics consider a dress designer friend Sara Perceval from parquet, & marble flooring. Full novel, but I worry that the word ‘existential’ classic of post-colonial literature. 1957-58 will be priced at £6,600. In one letter, makes it sound too weird or brainy. It’s not,” British writer Lilian Pizzichini, the Chandler advises her on designing night- service building with valet parking, said Chris Schluep, Mr. Miéville’s editor at Bal- author of the new biography “The Blue dresses: “I suggest the best improvement pool, security cameras on each lantine Books, in an email. Hour: A Life of Jean Rhys,” was 12 years would be to make them shorter and shorter.” New Line Cinema/Everet Collection floor, concierge, etc. Where Elite Buyers Mr. Miéville says he knows many readers old when she first became enchanted A letter from Chandler to his agent H.N. are “put off” by sci-fi and fantasy. The author with her subject. Karina Lombard (left) and Claudia Robinson Swanson in 1952 thanking him for a Christ- Offered at $4,250,000 himself is not a J.R.R. Tolkien fan (he’s criti- In one passage in the book, Ms. Pizzi- in the 1993 film adaptation of Jean Rhys’s mas gift—to be offered at auction house Bon- Les Zador at 818-995-9448 Find Luxury Properties cized Tolkien’s “Wagnerian pomposity”) and chini writes of Ms. Rhys’s childhood in ‘Wide Sargasso Sea.’ hams’s literature sale in New York on June [email protected] finished only two Harry Potter books before Dominica: “She did not fit in: she was 10—also shows the same dry wit: “Many he put the series aside (“I didn’t massively en- pale where the others were swarthy, she thanks to you for the tie with the Sherlock joy them,” he says). was timid where the others were confi- and a TV version in 2006. Ms. Pizzichini Holmeses and the bloody footprints on it,” Co-ops & Condos East But he feels that fantastic tales are a natu- dent. Nor was she like the black girls says that while Ms. Rhys’s life was tur- however, “a fellow who has worked his way up Manhattan - 50's East ral part of storytelling. When skeptics ask who lived on Genever, her family’s es- bulent and contradictory, it was also cul- to a wristwatch, with or without luck, and 57th St 1100 S.F for more information call, him, “How did you get into sci-fi and fan- tate....She would never be accepted as turally rich, and always interesting. then has slipped back to a tie is made to real- PIED-À-TERRE 44-20-7842-9600 or 49-69-971-4280 tasy?” he has a response. “My answer is: How one of them. To make matters worse, “She was a devoted reader of Freud, but ize that he is just about washed up” (estimate: SALE HOUSE Sizzling Italian Masterpiece! did you get out of it?” says Mr. Miéville. “Be- her mother was fond of remarking that at the same time she would go on her $1,000-$1,500). CHEAP AMERICAN LAND Hi Flr Renov. Furn. 1BR, 1.5B cause if you look at a roomful of kids, huge black babies were prettier than white own into the seediest bar in Montmar- Bonhams’s New York sale includes a first- 350m2 in restored medieval castle Pogen Pohl Kit TERR numbers of them will love aliens and mon- babies.” tre,” says Ms. Pizzichini. “People like edition copy of a holy grail of American crime Call 912-729-5544 30m north Rome City vus Move in 7 acres park pool tennis etc. w/Hotel services. sters and witches...and at a certain point, Ms. Rhys died in 1979 at the age of Ford Madox Ford played at being deni- fiction, “The Maltese Falcon” (1930) by Dash- or visit Euro 1.300,00 Web# 1015943 some of them will start to leave that behind 88. Her novel “Wide Sargasso Sea” zens of the demimonde. Jean was au- iell Hammett (estimate: $4,000-$6,000); and (39) 39 11 33 847 and Ellen Schatz 212.891.7673 and go on to what they think of—wrongly—as spawned a big screen movie in 1993, thentic.” Hammett’s “The Thin Man” (1934), estimated www.VacantLandAmerica.com [email protected] more serious stuff.” at $800-$1,200.

W12 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 W5 v Film

‘Night’ and day

How the venerable Smithsonian worked with Hollywood on an anarchic kids’ movie ‘Night at the Museum: Battle of the Smithsonian’

From left: Pierfrancesco Favino, When the makers of “Night at the Museum,” a 2006 family adventure Ayelet Zurer, Tom Hanks and David film, approached the American Museum of Natural History in New York Pasquesi in ‘Angels & Demons.’ about working with them, museum officials were ambivalent, partly because some pieces in the movie weren’t in the actual museum. In the Columbia Pictures final film, in which artifacts come alive after dark, the museum went by a slightly different name. “Night” grossed more than half a billion dollars in theaters world-wide—and drove a spike in attendance at the AMNH and other museums. The Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C., didn’t hesitate when producers came calling for a sequel and gave them access to key facilities and holdings for “Night at the Museum: Battle of the Plot’s knots bedevil ‘Angels’ Smithsonian,” released this week. The production paid the Smithsonian $550,000 for title placement, according to someone familiar with the NGELS & DEMONS,” which prominent members of the college and modestly enjoyable—fantasy of agreement. The deal also gave the institution standard location fees and a draws a sharp historical of cardinals have disappeared dur- mutual need. Jennifer Aniston is cut of merchandise sales. —John Jurgensen ‘A distinction between the Il- ing a conclave to elect a new pope. Sue, an ostensibly sophisticated luminati (bad) and the Catholic To find them, and, not incidentally, woman who stops at a motel in King- church’s Preferiti (good), may leave to do something about all that nasty man, Ariz.; she’s a sales rep for a you feeling like a member of the Stu- antimatter, Langdon must find the company that sells bad art to busi- pefiti—utterly benumbed by info ancient lair of the Illuminati by fol- nesses around the country. Steve overload, yet willing to sit there and lowing a trail that is maddeningly Zahn is Mike, a sort of harmless watch the action unfold. And un- elusive and abundantly photogenic. God’s fool who works as the night fold. And unfold. Among the movie’s many revela- manager of the motel—it’s owned Before and after everything else— tions is the fact—I’m taking the fac- by his aging parents—and falls in the pentagram’s meaning, the lofty tuality on faith—that the Vatican li- love with Sue from the moment she pyramid’s significance, the mysteri- brary’s most treasured manuscripts walks in the door. In the real world, ous watermark in English, the ar- are stored in sealed chambers under or somewhere like it, Mike’s subse- a partial vacuum. At certain points quent sexual overtures would put during the screening I attended, his guest in mind of Norman Bates Lincoln Comes Alive Film when the action was interrupted by and send her hurtling out the door. The National Mall, which is a hub for the Smithsonian’s museums, was a JOE MORGENSTERN major eruptions of information, a In the world of this little film, she’s backdrop for computergenerated effects. One of them, a walking, talking sealed chamber under partial vac- sufficiently charmed that she wel- Abraham Lincoln statue, is a comedic device, but director Shawn Levy uum might have described the comes him—warily—into her life, experienced something more solemn during filming. Mr. Levy, a Canadian cane hints from Galileo and Bernini— screening room. With a running and continues to do so even after he who became a U.S. citizen in the same year he shot the film, says, “One of Ron Howard’s movie version of the time of 138 minutes, “Angels & De- becomes a bicoastal stalker. the enduring memories of this whole experience was being in the Lincoln Dan Brown novel is an action thriller, mons” is a serious slog. Still, it’s an As a specialist in space cadets, Memorial at 4 a.m. after we finished filming, completely alone in the although the action far outweighs odd kind of a slog that manages to Mr. Zahn could have played this role silence of the monument and feeling something palpable.” the thrills. Symbology may be a spe- keep you partially engaged, even at with his eyes shut, but he keeps cial stroke for certain folks, but any- its most esoteric or absurd, despite them wide open and fixed on Sue. one can understand a threat to blow an endlessly excitable choir and With her sharp tongue and ironic Earhart’s Flight up the Vatican with a pulsating blob Hans Zimmer’s pitiless score. Tom style, Ms. Aniston could have riffed A daytime scene with Ben Stiller in the National Air and Space Museum of antimatter. It doesn’t even matter Hanks is a companionable presence, on her character’s worldliness, but was filmed at the facility, but action scenes were executed on a Vancouver that it’s anti; just think terrorist plus as always, and he gets to run and the script makes Sue a loner, much sound stage. Famous pieces in the film include a 1903 Wright Flyer and nuclear device and you’ve mastered jump much more often than he did like the inexplicably isolated the red Lockheed Vega flown by Amelia Earhart (played by Amy Adams). all the arcana that counts. in “The Da Vinci Code.” Stellan women often played by Sandra Bul- Margaret Weitekamp, a curator in the division of space history who Though the movie, unlike the Skarsgård is the Swiss Guard’s stern lock, so the actress must throttle visited the set, was impressed by its verisimilitude, down to the real book, is set after the events of “The big cheese, Ewan McGregor is the back. “Management”—that’s how placards describing fake exhibits. But she didn’t save any items for the Da Vinci Code,” rest assured that quick-witted Camerlengo and Mike refers to himself when he museum. “The props were done in fiberglass and wood,” Ms.Weitekamp Tom Hanks’s Robert Langdon isn’t Armin Mueller-Stahl’s gimlet-eyed knocks on Sue’s door—is one of says, “and the museum, of course, has the originals.” being followed around once again cardinal exudes villainy with every those slender fables that have no- by Audrey Tautou, who seemed pain- whispered syllable. where to go after the first half-hour fully at a loss for things to do. This ‘Management’ or so but keep going anyway, in this time Langdon is followed around case into such picaresque absurdi- the Vatican and Rome by an Israeli “Management,” a debut feature ties as Mike’s employment in a Chi- actress, Ayelet Zurer, who plays the by Stephen Belber, is a sentimental— nese restaurant, his skydiving les- Italian scientist Vittoria Vetra; she’s sons and his brief fling at being a seldom at a loss, though the produc- WSJ.com Buddhist monk. tion gains little more from her pres- Woody Harrelson has a small, ence than physicist pulchritude. (A Opening this week in Europe sour role as Jango, an ex-rocker real physicist told me that some of turned organic-yogurt magnate. her colleagues had been hoping the n Adventureland Iceland James Liao has more fun than you’d movie, which depicts superheated n Coraline Iceland, Greece expect in the eventually preposter- Photos: Twentieth Century Fox n Duplicity Finland, Netherlands, Sweden events at CERN’s Large Hadron Col- ous role of Al, the too-hip son of the The Dream Exhibit lider near Geneva, would enhance n Ghosts of Girlfriends Past Denmark, Chinese restaurant’s owners. Fred public understanding of their work. Estonia, Germany, Lithuania, Sweden Ward is Mike’s father, a withdrawn As the characters played by Mr. Stiller and Ms. Adams move through Lots of luck.) n Observe and Report Finland Vietnam vet, and Margo Martindale— galleries, they interact with artworks that become animated. Several “Angels & Demons” was adapted n Race to Witch Mountain Italy she played the poignantly gauche pieces, such as “American Gothic” and the kiss depicted in the photograph “V-J Day, Times Square,” were written into the script’s earliest drafts. But by David Koepp and Akiva Golds- n State of Play Bulgaria, Czech Republic, American tourist in “Paris, je in pre-production, Mr. Shawn Levy added dozens of others “based on my man. In its form, as well as some of Denmark, Estonia, Hungary, Romania t’aime”—is Mike’s mother, who says own tastes and a smattering of art history,” including tutorials from art its substance, the film bears an ee- n The Limits of Control Germany of Sue at one point, “She’s logical, in buff (and comedian) Steve Martin, whom Mr. Levy worked with on recent rie resemblance to “Seven,” the n The Uninvited Germany, Italy, an emotionally annihilating way.” “Pink Panther” movies. Many of the featured works, such as Rodin’s “The David Fincher thriller with Brad Pitt Spain, Turkey The line is too elaborate for the char- Thinker,” are not actually in the Smithsonian. Instead, Mr. Levy made and Morgan Freeman, chasing from n The Wrestler Denmark acter, but then the plot is too sprawl- the ghastly remains of one torture ing for the structure. selections, including a candy-red balloon dog by sculptor Jeff Koons, based Source: IMDB on their dynamic potential and inclusion in “the dream exhibit in my head.” victim to another. By objective mea- WSJ.com subscribers can read reviews of That’s often the way with debut sure, this one adds up to four-sev- these films and others at WSJ.com/FilmReview films: so many notions, so little enths of that one, given that four time.

W4 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 W13 v Top Picks v Art Contemporary stars at Munich’s new museum

By Mariana Schroeder them in an eight-meter-long mir- new focus on contemporary art in Special to The Wall Street Journal rored cabinet. It took six curators a city formerly better known for Munich a full week to place the numbered kitsch and bonhomie than for high UNICH’S NEW Museum tablets of bronze, resin and plas- art. After World War II, only six Brandhorst, which opened ter, in their proper place in the in- contemporary art works had sur- Mthis week in a striking stallation. vived the Nazi purges of Munich’s new building designed by Berlin “Kandor” (2007), by American museums. Now with the Pina- ‘Sickert in Venice’ architects Sauerbruch Hutton— artist Mike Kelly, is a mixed-media kothek der Moderne and the Johan Persson and backed with a Œ120 million installation and one of nine Kelly Brandhorst, the city has two explores an artist’s grant to fund future acquisitions— works in the Brandhorst collec- highly visible palaces devoted to aims to vault this Bavarian city tion. Mr. Kelly was influenced by 20th- and 21st-century art. identity crisis into the contemporary art big the Superman comics of his child- The collection came to Munich London: Walter Sickert leagues. hood and produced a series of under the condition the Bavarian (1860-1942) has a good claim to be- The museum is the new home works named after the fictional government build a separate mu- ing the father of modern British art. of more than 700 works of 20th- capital city of the planet Krypton. seum to house it. The building, A student of Whistler, he was a and 21st-century art collected by Hoses feeding an unnamed gas which cost Œ48 million, features a friend of Degas, knew Manet, and Udo and Anette Brandhorst, who into oversized test tubes fill the stunning façade covered with through his own work transmitted started acquiring art in the 1970s. room with their orange and purple 36,000 ceramic rods attached ver- Impressionism and Post-Impres- Ms. Brandhorst, who died in 1999, glow. Inside, a crystalline city tically and glazed in 23 different Museum Brandhorst s sionism to a younger generation. In- was an heiress to the Henkel con- emerges and an eerie sound fills colors. In addition to their decora- deed, a case can be made that sumer-products fortune; Mr. the gallery. tive function, the rods are de- Munich’s new Museum Brandhorst features important works by Andy Warhol there’s a direct line linking Sickert Brandhorst sits on the board of The museum’s opening puts a signed to absorb street sound. and Cy Twombly; bottom, a painting from Mr. Twombly’s 2001 Lepanto Cycle. with Francis Bacon. The Dulwich Pic- the Zurich-based Agrippina Insur- ture Gallery’s exhibition “Sickert in ance Group. The heart of their col- Venice” shows how and where Sick- lection is an extraordinary group ert found his identity as an artist, in of works by American artist Cy the repeated visits the painter made Twombly, who like his contempo- to the city beginning in 1895. raries Robert Rauschenberg and Anastasia Hille in the title The illustrations and cover in the Jasper Johns, distanced himself role of ‘Dido, Queen of exhibition’s catalog are somehow from Abstract Expressionism and Carthage,’ in London. bright and colorful. Yet the pictures succeeded in ushering in a new themselves are, for the most part, era of American art. The Brand- somber and dark. The exception is horst’s permanent collection in- the 1901 painting, “Santa Maria cludes the most important National Theatre’s della Salute,” in which the red Twombly works outside the U.S., squared-up lines on the panel show including his Lepanto Cycle, now ‘Dido’: a fresh take through the oil paint, conferring a housed in the museum in a gallery on early Marlowe geometrical discipline upon the constructed especially for it. freely rendered image. Similarly, in Mr. Twombly painted the 12 gi- London: Christopher Mar- “The Ghetto, Venice” (1897-98), the gantic canvases of the Lepanto Cy- lowe’s rarely staged first play, repeated rectangular shapes of the cle for the 2001 Venice Biennale. “Dido, Queen of Carthage,” shows six- and seven-story buildings give The series evokes the historic bat- the playwright, spy, atheist and an underlying order to what looks tle in which the troops of Venice self-confessed lover of “tobacco like rapidly made strokes of a paint- and the Holy See destroyed the and boys” at his most provocative. loaded brush. Turkish Fleet at Lepanto in 1571,

The first scene shows Jupiter Sabam But it was not the picturesque changing the balance of power in s “dandling Ganymede upon his views, waterways and buildings of Europe. The new museum also knee”—“ganymede” was Elizabe- ‘Old Lady with Masks’ (1889), by James Ensor, in Antwerp. Venice that stimulated Sickert to re- shows Mr. Twombly’s most recent than slang for a male prostitute. invent himself. Rather, as the sec- works, “Untitled (Roses),” on In James Macdonald’s produc- ond, and better, half of this show show for the first time. The artist tion for the National Theatre’s makes evident, it was in Venice that completed the series of six vi- small Cottesloe auditorium, the Sickert began painting ambiguous brantly colored works last year. opening scene with the gods takes Antwerp’s ‘Goya, Redon, Ensor’ figures in interiors—not so much The collection also includes im- place on a level above the stage, narratives as puzzles, inviting the portant works by Andy Warhol. in Tobias Hoheisel’s minimal set. viewer to work out what he is look- “Brandhorst concentrated on two Costume designer Moritz Junge ing at. The most interesting pic- very prominent artists: Cy dresses Jupiter and Ganymede in shows visionary works of horror tures in this show are the female fig- Twombly and Andy Warhol. They what appeared to me to be bikers’ ures, sometimes paired, of the Vene- cover more than half of the collec- gear, a strange contrast with the Antwerp: In 1886, a Belgian idyllic tapestry designs, com- with a graphic genius that can tian prostitutes La Giuseppina and tion,” says Carla Schulz Hoffman, simple gown worn by Dido, Anasta- exhibition changed the direc- pleted in the 1770s, drew the match Goya’s. He is represented La Carolina. Their postures, and the the acting general director of the sia Hille, who gives a convincing tion of modern art. The occa- attention of Spain’s royal fam- here by the rather un-Goya-like easily read expressions of their Pinakothek and the Museum performance of an otherwise impe- sion was a display of prints, ily. He was made court painter print series “Homage to Goya,” faces, though sometimes feature- Brandhorst. rious woman tortured by her lov- called “Homage to Goya,” by in 1786 and embarked on a se- and by important paintings like less, capture a chilly night of the Among the Warhols are his por- er’s threat to leave her. the French artist Odilon Redon, ries of life-size analytical por- “Silence” (1911), from New soul that will be seen again and traits of Marilyn Monroe, Eliza- Though Marlowe was only 20 attended by Belgium’s most ac- traits, which make up the best- York’s Museum of Modern Art, again in Sickert’s later, better- beth Taylor and Jacqueline years old when this adaptation of complished young painter, known chapter of his career. In which shows a ghostly figure known Camden Town pictures. Kennedy Onassis. There are self- Virgil’s “Aeneid” was first per- James Ensor. After having seen 1792, Goya went deaf after a inside a disembodied eye. —Paul Levy portraits of the artist and late formed, you hear echoes of the the exhibition, Ensor high fever, and he conceived of All roads of this show lead Until June 7 works like his Last Supper and the language of the mature plays, espe- (1860-1949) turned away from a new kind of series—80 vision- to James Ensor, Flanders’s www.dulwichpicturegallery.org.uk famous Camouflage Series along cially in Dido’s speeches. “Dido” is the well-wrought realism of his ary prints of horror and de- greatest painter since Van with two Oxidation Paintings. easier to read than to stage, early years and began to pro- spair that seemed like willful Dyck. Though he produced The Brandhorsts collected art though, and there are moments of duce wildly imaginative works perversions of his colorful tap- graphic works of disturbing vi- methodically, acquiring large num- languor in Mr. Macdonald’s lei- that proved decades ahead of estry cartoons. Known as the tality, Ensor used oil paints to bers of works representing the surely, 2µ-hour production. their time, influencing every- Caprichos, the prints are update the Goya of the Capri- working lives of the artists they This slowness is redeemed, thing from Expressionism to among the first examples of chos. Along the way, he pro- loved. British artist Damien Hirst, though, by the acute respect Surrealism. Now, Antwerp’s modern social criticism in art, gressed from Redon’s graphic whose sculptures and installations shown to the text by his cast, who Royal Museum of Fine Arts has and they lay the groundwork ghostliness to something on are preoccupied with medicine, speak their lines clearly, making placed all three artists along- for the Antwerp show. In the the order of fully rendered mor- death and anatomy, was among the Elizabethan verse as accessi- side each other and created a series’ signature work, “The bidity. With the world’s leading them. In the 2007 installation “In ble as today’s standard Eng- curatorial occasion all its own. Sleep of Reason Produces Mon- collection of Ensor paintings al- This Terrible Moment We Are Vic- lish—no mean feat, as the script is “Goya, Redon, Ensor: Grotesque sters,” a slumbering man seems ready at its disposal, the Royal tims Clinging Helplessly to Our En- jam-packed with classical allu- Paintings and Drawings” has a to be dreaming of bat-like de- Museum has managed to assem- vironment that Refuses to Ac- sions. once-in-a-generation feel, pro- mons, which are like ancient fu- ble other major paintings from knowledge the Soul,” Mr. Hirst cre- Apart from the title role, which viding rare and unforgettable ries, or harbingers of a world around the world. The highlight ated 27,000 life-like pills and set demands a diva, this is ensemble insights into the sustained mo- about to go mad. of the show is the chance to playing of a high order, and ment that gave birth to modern- The rediscovery of Goya’s see key works, like MoMA’s hor- mostly a pleasure to watch, partly ism. grotesque works, which began rifying and hilarious “Masks owing to the movement direction Spanish artist Francisco in Paris a generation after his Confronting Death” (1888), by Steven Hoggett and Imogen Goya (1746-1828) is often con- death, influenced the young Re- brought home to Flanders. Estate of Walter R. Sickert. s Knight, of the troupe Frantic As- sidered the last old master and don (1840-1916), whose prints —J.S. Marcus sembly. the first modern artist. Firmly and drawings investigate the ir- Until June 14 Walter Sickert’s ‘The Women on a —Paul Levy rooted in the 18th century, his rational side of man’s nature www.kmska.be Sofa—Le Tose’ (circa 1903-04), top, Until June 2 and ‘La Giuseppina Against a Map of www.nationaltheatre.org.uk Venice’ (1903), above, in London. Bayerische Staatsgemäldesammlungen s

W14 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 W3 v Taste 8-9 | Cover story Travel 7 | Design Contents Crafty furniture looks Arab Humor . . . No Joke Lessons from the spring auctions 3 | Art Summer of Picasso By Melik Kaylan thing until the last minute or the seating some 300 people at ta- The Wall Street Journal’s front extended family in the West Bank Touring the artist’s Provence inspirations, venue wouldn’t book you—now bles. Thursday, the final evening, page. He talked about performing and happened to ask, “what 10-11 | & NEW YORK—In the end, what they’re all delighted to have us. offered a selection of the best per- around the Middle East—in Ku- would you do if there was Munich’s new museum from local pottery to Cézanne’s mountain Food Drink mars the Arab-American Comedy But, of course, attitudes have formances. It was on that evening wait, he was told “sir, you may not peace?” Conveying their reaction, Festival is the danger to your changed so much. These days, peo- that breathing between laughs talk about sex, drugs, religion, and his face went dumbstruck. Food as art in Kyoto health: The laughs come so thick ple are more terrified of sneezing seemed impossible, especially dur- no bad language.” He illustrated “Huhhh?” 4 | Film and fast that there’s no chance to Mexicans than Arabs.” ing the stand-up acts, which were his reaction with a frozen grimace. “What would you do?” breathe for minutes at a time. One If Mr. Obeidallah, an affable on the whole superior to the “What the f2 was I supposed to “No, no. We will fight and shows up wondering, will it be an Ken-doll look-alike and the festi- sketches. Mr. Obeidallah ex- talk about?” He went on to praise fight and fight and . . . ” Morgenstern on When Scotch meets ice extended political rant? Will there val’s MC, sounds a mite provoca- plained that while the sketches Arab civilization. “Turns out we Successful as the show is state- be too much phoney applause for tive, he pales in comparison to fe- were new, and thus unpolished, practically invented hygiene: per- side, according to Mr.Obeidallah, ‘Angels & Demons’ bad jokes, endless ethnic booster- male co-founder and fellow the stand-ups offered material fume, soap, deodorant, the tooth- “they love what we do in the Mid- 14 | ism or straining for sympathy, a stand-up comedian Maysoon the comics had practiced over brush . . . what happened?” He dle East.” Though the festival Top Picks long bemoaning of injustices, all Zayid. Also from New Jersey, Ms. many independent occasions. was followed by Joe DeRosa, part- doesn’t travel, many of its stars 5 | Books dressed up as hu- Maysoon has cere- The first stand-up, an Egyptian- Egyptian part-Italian, who had a do, and Mr.Obeidallah has recently Modernist visions of horror mor? Not a bit of it. bral palsy and grinds American named Eman Morgan, coveted half-hour special on Com- performed in Beirut, Cairo and Instead, the audi- ‘Turns out we out her remarks complained that even after 30 edy Central in February. “There’s Amman to audiences of thou- China Miéville’s strange fiction ence gets a splen- practically through gnashing years his father’s English was too much racism against foreign- sands, always in English. “They A new take on Marlowe’s ‘Dido’ did, merciless anat- jaws. “I found my barely comprehensible. “You know ers,” he said. “Foreigners welcome, didn’t have stand-up as a genre un- omy of the Arab- invented husband in Gaza— your English is bad,” he said, I say—come one, come all. Just til we turned up,” he says. “We’re Collecting: Classic crime novels American experi- hygiene: the best place for “when your gardener makes fun don’t smell like your country.” comedy missionaries. They export ence, so unsparingly me. They have no- of you.” He was followed by Ron- Ms. Zayid, subtly swaying with religion; we export comedy back 15 | Taste self-critical that it perfume, soap, where to run.” Both nie Khalil, who has appeared on palsy but wenchy withal, came on at them. They can’t get enough. 6 | Sports goes beyond the po- deodorant . . . producers have nu- Showtime Arabia, a Viacom sub- clothed in a long Arab dress. “My We’re like superstars—they know litically incorrect to merous major show- sidiary in the Arab world, and has father thinks I’m the world’s big- all about us, especially the young, Conversion through comedy a species of comedy what biz credits to their headlined around the Middle East. gest prostitute,” she said, “be- and it’s all through YouTube.” Golf Journal: that often shucks off happened?’ name—Mr. Obeidal- He talked about how Muslim cause I do stand-up comedy in As part of his self-appointed Putting tips from the master all conventions and lah starred in Com- feasts are all about suffering. public.” She went on to add that mission, Mr. Obeidallah teaches 16 | nears pure anarchy. edy Central’s “Axis “Our holiday Ramadan,” he said, she had worked proudly for candi- seminars in stand-up comedy with Time Off This is a notable achievement of Evil” show and took it all over “is 30 days of self-deprivation. date Obama’s election. “They told colleagues, sometimes selecting considering the political freight the the Mideast. Ms. Zayid has ap- There’s a reason why the Grinch me, ‘we were looking for a black one or two local wannabes to in- On cover, Pablo Picasso in Cannes in 1956. (Photo: Getty Images) Our arts and culture calendar festival implicitly carries. Last peared in several movies—as have never stole Ramadan.” lesbian in a wheelchair but we clude in the night’s show. “We’re week’s was the sixth annual event: many of the 50 or so performers. Mr. Obeidallah came back on found you. You’re perfect.’” For missionaries both ways,” he says. WSJ.com this time at Comix, a club in Man- The third producer, Walid Zouaiter, and chatted away, saying that it this reporter, the evening hit its “We like teaching Americans about hattan. The producers had of Lebanese extraction, has just was great to see all the chain peak with Aron Kader, a Palestin- Arabs through comedy. In the early dreamed up the idea in response to acted in a George Clooney film. stores opening up in the Middle ian-Mormon Gary Cooper looka- days, reporters would cover us and post-9/11 pressures on the Arab- The festival week began with a East—except for one. He noticed like. “Any Palestinian-Mormons in you’d get headlines like, ‘Arab Com- A smoky aroma Too much Gore? An artist collects American community. “In 2003,” series of shows devoted to that Target was absent. He intro- the audience?” he asked, sighing edy: Oxmoron?’ We’re converting Editor Spring wine tasting events A new television show finds Chinese contemporary star Craig Winneker says Dean Obeidallah, the co- sketches written specifically for duced Ahmed Ahmed, an Egyptian- knowingly at the ensuing silence. people, one laugh at a time.” Barbara Tina Fuhr Deputy editor founder, a 30-something from New this year, and then, midweek, born, California-raised comic who He went on to relate, with bril- Art director that feature barbecuing comedy in the pitfalls Ai Weiwei on his life-long hunt Fahire Kurt Jersey of Italian-Arab parents, shifted to stand-up comedy only— has appeared on “Roseanne” and liant impersonations of Arab el- Mr. Kaylan writes about culture Assistant art director Kathleen Van Den Broeck “you couldn’t mention the Arab all performed in a packed club “The View” and was profiled on ders, how he was sitting with his and the arts for the Journal. in the great outdoors. of a sustainable lifestyle. for ancient artifacts. Matthew Kaminski Taste page editor WSJ.com/LIfestyle WSJ.com/LIfestyle WSJ.com/Asia Questions or comments? Write to [email protected]. Please include your full name and address. Masterpiece / By Jeremy Hildreth 7 Before the Trees Disappeared THE JOURNAL CROSSWORD / Edited by Mike Shenk 68 Broadway revival of 2009 8 Org. that included the 58 Milo in moves 92 City near Milan 69 “Arabian Nights” bird New York Cosmos 60 Wheel thing 93 Market VIPs 9 Chanel fragrance for men Across 23 Doesn’t bother 33 Tamino in “The 55 Violinist’s stroke 70 Emmy winner Alan 62 Rackets 95 Ones with drawing EASTER ISLAND, South Pacific— from the single quarry where the year 500, and after several gen- trees; fires; El Niño-induced ing stillborn in the quarry. Cap- 10 Do painstaking research power 1 Grating to return the Magic Flute,” e.g. indicated by a “V” 71 Works on getting some 64 Struts That you can now fly here in five they all were carved to their erations the population was suffi- droughts; salt spray; and human tain Cook, arriving in 1774, de- football players introduced 11 Blows away 6 Like Ponzi turpentine, 34 Equally speedy 56 Skyrocket 65 Newspaper from 98 “Zero chance!” hours, several days a week from erect positions—mostly dotted cient to get into the labor-inten- consumption of wood. scribed the islanders as “small, to each other? 12 O’Brien is replacing him 1912 to 1991 schemers’ say? 38 Bodice shaper 57 Prefix meaning 100 Student from College Santiago, Chile, belies the truth around the coastal perimeter sive monument business. Polyne- Mr. Rapu, who was also gover- lean, timid and miserable.” Euro- 79 “Camptown Races” bit 13 Envelope abbreviation pockets? 26 Bring down 40 Roughly “blood vessel” 66 Fruit-flavored Station, Texas that Easter Island is the most iso- with their backs to the sea—up to sians were carvers anyway; here nor of the island for six years, pean diseases arrived soon after, 80 “___ been had!” 14 Throng Coca-Cola brand 11 Following 27 Dwells 43 Feet-sliding 59 Half of dodici 101 Awaken harshly lated of inhabited places on Earth. 12 miles away? Several theories they had the perfect volcanic rock says that the deforestation was killing more people, and slave 67 Late period 14 Witchy women 28 Is immortalized ballroom dance 60 Disco ___ of 81 Words with premium or 15 With all one’s might 102 New Jersey’s ___ Park The nearest neighbor, Pitcairn— have been demonstrated as feasi- for it and little else to occupy their undoubtedly a mixture of human raids in 1862-63 carried off 1,500 loss 71 When tripled, 18 Pamplona pals like Franklin 45 Dips fingers into “The Simpsons” 16 Gadget 103 Pittsburgh of the Ruhr where the Bounty mutineers set- ble, including dragging the stat- time. So statue building became and natural forces. By the time Rapa Nui—half the remaining 82 Person of interest? a WWII film 20 Saw Roosevelt? snuff or salt? 61 Shrewd 17 Head out west? 104 LBJ’s veep tled—with a population of 48 peo- ues on wooden sleds. “There are the central activity of Easter’s soci- Dutch Admiral Jacob Roggeveen population—to the Peruvian 84 River with a sturgeon 72 Noise from fans ple, is 1,240 miles to the west. lots of ways they could have been ety. Unsurprisingly, the maximum 21 In need of a towel 30 Gung-ho 52 Go sour 63 Is tied up by 19 Under 105 Unifying theme spotted the island on Easter Sun- guano mines. A handful managed population 73 Baseless Significantly, it is this preternat- moved,” says Sergio day in 1722 (there’s one to struggle home a few years 22 Gloss over 32 Fixed 53 Removes “the Man in Black” 24 Alpha rhythm readout, 107 Ashen 85 Intended for short 74 Bearing ural lonesomeness that suggests Rapu, the only born Eas- secret revealed for later—and brought the plague 109 Cereal pkg. abbr. It’s Not the Economy 88 It may have an apron 25 Hare care specialist 75 Absorbs the loss the answers to two of archaeolo- ter Islander who is also you), he found no trees with them. By 1872 there were / by Cathy Allis 90 Football’s Cappelletti 29 On 76 Great Seal feature 110 Bleacher feature gy’s greatest riddles: the giant and a trained archaeologist. taller than 10 feet. just 111 people on the island. 12345 67891011121314151617 91 Runs a nudist colony? 31 Basketry material 77 1996 Madonna movie 111 Curvy molding eerie stone carvings for which the “‘How was it actually The major obvious Today, the 3,800 residents in 34 Beginning for boy or girl 78 Precept 112 Heal, as broken bones island is renowned, and the ecolog- done?’ is the question.” fallout from Easter’s de- Rapa Nui are citizens of Chile, the 18 19 20 21 22 94 Lofty 96 Peak southeast of Olympus 35 Tried for a hit 79 Do some soundtrack 114 Rose’s love ical disaster that caused a 99% pop- Oral history claims forestation was diminu- islanders having accepted Chilean work 23 24 25 26 97 Goal of some seeders 36 Counterfeit 115 Dollywood loc. ulation decline and made Easter that the statues walked, tion of the food supply. annexation in 1888. It’s been for ___ 83 Used public 116 Brotherhood since Island a poster child for the fate and Mr. Rapu believes he Birds were hunted to the most part a happy relation- 27 28 29 99 Bring into being 37 In (stewing) transportation 1868 many believe awaits the whole of has found examples of 100 Ready for robbery, maybe 39 Thing, for lawyers extinction; and cannibal- ship. Spanish is the island’s lingua 30 31 32 33 86 Chats with, PC-style 119 Beginning for Cat or humanity if we’re not careful. the “shoes” they wore ism became rife. Jared franca (though Rapa Nui is being 104 Med. provider group 40 Horse-player’s hangout: Abbr. 87 Goat quote cone But first, the heads. for the journey: stones, Diamond, who uses Eas- revived), and you can have a mean 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 106 Namely 41 Sigma preceder 88 Where the buoys are 120 Water temperature Archaeologists have inventoried flat on the topside, used ter as a case study in plate of ceviche con coco while 108 Starts carving some ham? 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 42 ___ Folly 89 Stimulates tester 887 carved figures made between by the islanders to pivot his book “Collapse,” re- you contemplate the fate of the is- 113 Gorge (Alaska nickname) about A.D. 1000 and 1600. These a trussed-up statue back ports that “Your moth- land and its lessons. 52 53 54 55 56 117 They may be fired 44 Brand of note Last Week’s Solution big busts, called moai, are an aver- and forth and forward— er’s flesh sticks in my Due to the massive population 57 58 59 60 61 62 118 Brings a boxing punch 46 Famed former French age of 13 feet tall and are known like moving a refrigera- teeth” became a com- drop-off, vast swaths of cultural under control? restaurant of Manhattan SOPUP DOJO WELSH EROS to islanders as the “living faces.” tor—while synchronizing mon insult. knowledge have been lost forever, 63 64 65 66 67 121 Getaway site 47 Tater ATAR I OVEN ALOHA XENO They represent ancestors and el- their exertions with For the Easter Is- contributing to the sense of insolu- 68 69 70 122 Minute 48 Fashion finish? DORIC ZETA DICERIPPER ders. “For us, they are people,” one chanting. Some experi- landers, there was no bility that surrounds Easter’s puz- 123 Skater Slutskaya 49 Entre ___ DOL AGER TWEAK DNALAB descendent of the natives told me. ments show a convincing escape. “They were zling past. Says Mr. Rapu: “Our eth- 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 124 Sloshed 50 Monsignor’s rel. ALONSO STEED SOLST I CE Perhaps. But for me they are way the moai, if lashed Jeremy Hildreth trapped,” says Mr nography is one of the poorest in MER I TS ERAT RORY EAT 79 80 81 82 83 125 Where British princes prep just ancient and alien statues. upright into a wooden Isolated Easter Island is the site of a monumental achievement. Rapu. In or around 51 Charlemagne’s realm: PROWLERSTOUR NESTS the Pacific. But we still know how 126 Half of 59-Across Abbr. Their meaning isn’t intrinsic at frame, could have 1680, we know, civil to fish. We still know how to track 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 ORB EUEL L OAT JAM 127 Camera setting 54 Containing iron: Pref. REAMERS LAGER MUN I CH all—it is abstract, intense and in- marched themselves along practi- population of 15,000 to 20,000, war broke out. People began tear- the moon for guidance in planting. 91 92 93 94 95 128 Meaning ATBAT WI NOS AEROGRAM terrogative: I want to sit at their cally under their own power, as reached in the 15th or 16th cen- ing down the statues, possibly in We still have some things to call WSJ.com LOYD UGHSOFHOLLY ROLE feet and ask questions. I feel these though hobbling on crutches. In tury, corresponds to the peak of deliberate effrontery to leaders ourselves Rapa Nui.” Above all— 96 97 98 99 Down BRONXZOO TOOLS CESTA guys know something, and I want truth, islanders may have used a moai-making. they believed had failed them. (A and for all of us—they have the 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 1 1984 Leon Uris book, Crossword online EMER I L SHRED STOSSEL to know it too. Gigantic and primi- combination of techniques. Unluckily, the native Rapa Nui 33-foot tall statue named Paro, moai, about which no matter how with “The” For an interactive SAS SUE BG I RL WRY tive, the moai provoke not rever- And why did they make so were living in one of the most dating from about 1620, was one much archaeologists surmise, we 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 2 Russia/China border river LOUSY XERREBELL ION ence or awe but pure wonder, reg- many? Well, why not? Easter Is- fragile ecosystems imaginable: a version of The Wall ARP C I TE LUAU FRANCE of the last erected and one of shall always be left wondering. 117 118 119 120 3 Levitator’s command Street Journal Crossword, TIAMARIA MARNE LIVEIN istered as a definite physical sen- land, in the relative far east of the windy, cool climate, very dry by the last felled.) The year 1838 of- 4 Some NCOs WSJ.com subscribers IGNORE DEANS GMEN IND sation, a kind of cosmic “Huh?” Pacific Ocean, 2,360 miles from tropical standards. Deforestation fers the last European mention Mr. Hildreth (jeremyhildreth.com) 121 122 123 124 5 Maximally corny can go to MADAMEVARY TRUE GAMER Such ethereal queries are ac- South America, was one of the set in almost from the outset, of a standing statue, and in 1868 is a traveler, a writer, and an im- 125 126 127 128 6 Needed renewing WSJ.com/WeekendJournal EM I T PAT I O YENS OBAMA companied by terrestrial ones, very last places to be settled by caused by a combination of fac- every moai on Easter Island was age consultant for companies 7 Driver’s lic. and the like SINS STEER NOSH KENAN such as: How did the moai get Polynesians. People arrived around tors: animals eating the seeds of either toppled in the dirt or rest- and countries.

W2 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 W15 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009

Amsterdam photography “NY Perspectives” shows images of Amsterdam as seen through the eyes of four New York photographers: Gus Powell, Carl Wooley, Richard Rothman and Joshua Lutz. Foam Fotografiemuseum in De Bazel Building Until Aug. 23 % 31-20-5516-500 www.nyperspectives.com art “The Art of Flying: Bird Pieces by Mel- chior d'Hondecoeter” exhibits paint- ings by Melchior d’Hondecoeter (1636-95). Rijksmuseum— Amsterdam Schiphol May 27-Oct. 26 % 31-20-6747-172 www.rijksmuseum.nl Barcelona music “Estrella Damm Primavera Sound” is an international music festival featur- ing performances by Neil Young, Sonic Youth, Yo La Tengo, Ghostface Killah, Bloc Party and many others. Parc del Forum May 28-30 % 34-93-3010-090 www.primaverasound.es art “The Ideal Beauty—Antoni Solà pre- sents the work of Spanish neo-classi- cal sculptor Antoni Solà (1780-1861). Museu Frederic Marès Until Sept. 27

% 34-93-2563-500 Eric Fischl, Photo: Haydar Koyupinar www.museumares.bcn.cat s ‘Living Room Nr. 3 (spinning),’ from 2002, by Eric Fischl, in Munich; below, shoe by Andrea Pfister, from 1990, in Madrid. Berlin art “Imi Knoebel: Help, help...” is an exhibi- % 49-221-2212-3860 Lausanne by nine American artists who took a (born 1965) and others. tion created by the German abstract www.museenkoeln.de sports stand against mainstream art from Museum Brandhorst artist Imi Knoebel (born 1940), pre- “Heroes” explores the history and ico- the 1960s onward, including William Until May 24 % senting a retrospective of his layered Frankfurt nography of sporting figures in four Copley (1919-96), Peter Saul (born 49-89-2380-5104 1934) and H.C. Westerman (1921-81). www.museum-brandhorst.de art. art periods of history: antiquity, the re- Neue Nationalgalerie birth of the Olympic Games in 1896, Bonnefantenmuseum “Looting and Restitution—Jewish- Until Aug. 16 Paris May 23-Aug. 9 Owned Cultural Artifacts from 1933 to the era after World War I, and today. % 31-43-3290-190 art % 49-30-266-4245-10 the Present” illustrates the historical Olympic Museum www.bonnefanten.nl “One image may hide another: Arcim- www.smb.museum events and consequences of looting Until Sept. 13 boldo-Dalí-Raetz” shows works explor- by Nazis throughout Europe. % 41-21-6216-511 ing embedded or double meanings in Brussels Jewish Museum Frankfurt www.olympic.org/uk/passion/muse Madrid music um/index_uk.asp art works by M.C. Escher (1898-1972), Sal- Until Aug. 8 vador Dali (1904-89) and others. “Brussels Jazz Marathon 2009” fea- “Artaud” presents drawings, notes, sev- % 49-69-212-35000 Galeries nationales du Grand Palais tures about 140 performances by London eral photographs and a selection of www.jewishmuseum.de Until July 6 more than 400 musicians, including design manuscripts alongside films highlight- % 33-1-4013-4800 Jennifer Scavuzzo, Jef Neve & Groove “French Porcelain for English Palaces: ing the acting and screenwriting tal- www.rmn.fr Thing and Phil Robinsson. Hamburg Sèvres from the Royal Collection” ents of the French playwright and Brussels Jazz Marathon art brings together around 300 pieces cre- poet Antonin Artaud (1896-1948). history May 29-31 “Modern Life: Edward Hopper and His ated by the Sèvres factory in France, La Casa Encendida Summer “The Bath and the Mirror” shows toi- % including a set of three vases once Until June 7 32-2-4560-484 Time” displays six major works by let kits from antiquity and the Middle owned by Marie Antoinette. % 34-902-4303-22 www.brusselsjazzmarathon.be American realist artist Edward Hopper Ages, containing powder boxes, per- www.lacasaencendida.es (1882-1967) alongside 65 master- The Queen’s Gallery fume bottles and grooming objects, art pieces by his contemporaries, including May 23-Oct. 11 alongside bath sculptures, painted % “Opening“ is the official opening of a Man Ray (1890-1976) and Georgia 44-20-7766-7300 fashion vases and paintings on wood from new museum dedicated to the Belgian O'Keeffe (1887-1986). www.royalcollection.org.uk “Stiletto Heels—Fascination and Seduc- the 15th century. Surrealist painter René Magritte Bucerius Kunst Forum tion” illustrates the history of stiletto of Picasso Musée National du Moyen Âge (1898-1967). Until Aug. 30 Lyon heels from the initial invention by Until Sept. 21 René Magritte Museum % 49-40-3609-960 opera Christian Dior in 1940 to the present % 33-1-5373-7800 day, with footwear by Prada, Manolo May 30-June 2 www.buceriuskunstforum.de “Death in Venice” is the last opera www.musee-moyenage.fr % 32-2-5086-3211 written by English composer Benjamin Blahnik, Christian Louboutin and Touring the artist’s Provence inspirations, www.musee-magritte-museum.be Britten (1913-76). Conducted by Mar- Jimmy Choo. Zurich Museo del Traje tyn Brabbins and performed by the history Until Aug. 30 Cologne Choir and Orchestra of the Lyon Op- “Rajasthan—King and Warriors” exhib- from local pottery to Cézanne’s mountain % 34-91-550-4700 art era. its 16th-century religious paintings “From Picasso to Warhol—Avant- Opera de Lyon museodeltraje.mcu.es and artifacts from Rajasthan, India. Garde Artists’ Jewelry“ showcases May 24-June 1 Museum Rietberg Park 140 works of jewelry and decorative % 33-826-3053-25 Munich Until Jan. 10, 2010 miniatures by artists such as Alex- www.opera-lyon.com art % 41-44-2063-131 ander Calder (1898-1976) and Max “Opening” introduces the Udo and www.stadt-zuerich.ch Ernst (1891-1976). Maastricht Anette Brandhorst Collection, housing Museum für Angewandte Kunst art works by Cy Twombly (born 1928), Source: ArtBase Global Arts News Ser- Until July 19 Andrea Pfister “Exile on Main St.” shows 200 works Andy Warhol (1928-87), Damien Hirst vice, WSJE research. s Putting tips from a golf master Zen and the art of the tasting menu W16 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 22 - 24, 2009 | WEEKEND JOURNAL