“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Go further with Lonely Planet 1 Book your travels 2 Talk to other PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions Find a fl ight travellers 2 Looking for ideas and advice on a Find the right fl ight through our YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip specifi c destination? Want to share online booking service. your experiences with the most active travel community? Then head Welcome to ..... 2 Reserve a room to Thorn Tree, Lonely Planet’s forum, Visit the Lonely Planet website to book where you’ll fi nd new posts every Map ...... 4 author-reviewed and recommended 12 seconds. Welcome to 12 Top Experiences ...... 6 Slovenia accommodation for any price range. Need to Know ...... 14 Book activities Discover and book amazing experiences If You Like...... 16 online for destinations around the globe. Month by Month ...... 18

Itineraries ...... 20 Scenic Beauty Food & Drink lonelyplanet.com/destinations lonelyplanet.com/apps Slovenia o՗ ers pristine panoramas in the Slovenian cooking borrows a little from middle of Europe, with soaring vistas each of its neighbours – , Austria, of Alpine peaks, hills and dales straight 11Hungary and the Balkans – synthesising out of a 19th-century landscape painting, 5 and reinventing dishes that emerge both

FILIPPO MARIA BIANCHI / GETTY IMAGES © and sparkling lakes and rivers that ap- LONELY PLANET / GETTY IMAGES © familiar and unique. The ‘Slovenian’ touch, pear to be underlit by emeralds. Slovenes as it were, might well be a local obsession Outdoor Slovenia ...... 23 are well attuned to natural beauty, and for using fresh and (where possible) locally the inclination is nearly always to pro- sourced ingredients. The result is a terriÀ c tect and preserve it. Where humankind foodie destination, where you’ll sample intrudes, it’s often to good e՗ ect, such as dishes in unusual combinations featur- at Lake , where a tiny baroque chapel ing items you may not be familiar with, atop Bled Island and a dramatic cli՗ side like buckwheat groats or mashed beans. castle complete a harmonious whole. You Slovenian , both white or red, is Regions at a Glance ...... 30 may well return from your holiday think- an unheralded strength, and regional ing Slovenia is the prettiest country you’ve varietals pair well with local specialities. ever seen. 3 Talk to locals With just a few words in the local language you can 6 RUTH EASTHAM & MAX PAOLI / GETTY IMAGES © JONATHAN SMITH / GETTY IMAGES © make a real connection when you travel. Our superb range of phrasebooks and language

20 apps is guaranteed to get you talking, no matter where you’re going. 30 Itiner- Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide the aries starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? regions Head online to lonelyplanet .com/thorntree to chat with other Cave travellers. Bled (p 76 ), Slovenia’s biggest tourist draw, The caves at Postojna (p 131 ) are Slov- at a P r i m o r s k a 5 looks like it came oՖ the drawing board of a 6 enia’s biggest subterranean attraction. gifted architect or interior designer. Start with The entrance might look like nothing, but shop.lonelyplanet.com/phrasebooks & a crystal-clear blue lake, add a tiny island over when you get whisked 4km underground glance G o r e n j s k a Notranjska here, top it with an impossibly on a train and only then start exploring, you Kranjska •# AUSTRIA cute church, and then put a dramatic, cliՖ side begin to get a sense of the scale. The caverns Gora Views 333 Activities 333 castle over there. Now add some Alpine peaks are a seemingly endless parade of crystal c Hiking 33 Caves 333 Vršič Pass #÷ to the backdrop. Voila! It really is that lovely, fancies – from frilly chandeliers and dripping Activities 33 Coastal Fun 33 R Mt Triglav Lake Bled but Bled is more than just good looks. There’s spaghetti formations, to paper-thin sheets Soča Valley (2864m) •#

É a raucous adventure scene too, with diving, and stupendous stalagmites, all patiently laid Bovec •# •# •#

•#Velika Planina cycling and rafting, among other active pursuits. down over the centuries by the simple drip of É Scenic Views Outdoor É •# There are excellent hotels and restaurants here mineral-rich water. A theatrical experience in Lake É as well. silent stone. The Vršiÿ Pass, Activities •#Kobarid É lakes Bled and Bo- The Soÿa Valley is •# Kamnik hinj, Mt Triglav: if one of Slovenia’s you’re seeking awe- best outdoor play- ITALY É L j u b l j a n a inspiring natural grounds. The stun- beauty and moun- ning Soÿa River is É Museums 333 tain vistas, you’ve made for rafting, Entertainment 333 come to the right kayaking and can- #_ Food 33 place. Views range yoning, the trails for from dramatic to trekking and biking, •# Idrija Check out our full range of guides sublime. or opt to paraglide 4 above it all.

Museums Hiking & É Ljubljana is home to Slovenia’s most Walking Caves important museums of art, history and The area around Primorska’s Karst TravellingTravelling somewheresomewheomewheere eelse?lse? SStayingtayyingyin longerlonger in a pparticulararticula place? Check out our full range of natural science, among others. Admirers is region and Notranj- •# Castle of architect and designer extraordinaire filled with great ska hide many of Jože Pleÿnik can tour the house he lived day hikes or longer their most spec- treks. The mother tacular landscapes guidguides,es, wriwrittentten and researchresearcheded bbyy exexpertpert authors to givee you an amazing ttravel experience. and worked in for almost 40 years. of all Slovenian underground. The Entertainment hikes is an ascent of epic Postojna and Ljubljana has a thriving cultural scene, Mt Triglav. Škocjan caves re- with something for everyone. From veal the surprising Adrenalin autumn through spring, the calendar is Slovenia hidden Sports filled with classical music, drama and below the surface. opera. In summer, nearly every weekend The rivers and brings a festival or event, including the gorges of Triglav Na- Coastal Fun city’s two-month Ljubljana Festival. tional Park supply Explore the fantas- thrills for fast-paced tic architecture and Food water sports like wonderful seafood We can’t say for sure if Ljubljana has rafting and canyon- of one of the Adri- the country’s best restaurants, but cer- ing. In winter, Lake atic’s true jewels, the tainly the capital offers the most variety. Bohinj has paraglid- medieval Venetian Naturally you’ll find excellent Slovenian ing, while Kranjska port of Piran. Koper, restaurants, but also very good Balkan, Gora is a centre for another historic Italian and Turkish cooking, and much downhill skiing and town, is a stone’s more. ski jumping. throw away.

p 34 p67 p 98

PAGE GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP UNDERSTAND Learn about the big picture, so you COUNTRYCOUNTTRY &&R REGIONALREGIONG AL DISCOVERDISCOVER POCKETPOCKET EBOOKS 203 TheTh ffreedomddtd you need to Full-colourFll l iimages Perfect for The same great content SLOVENIA can make sense of what you see plan the perfect trip. and top itineraries. a quick visit. with added interactivity. shop.lonelyplanet.com shop.lonelyplanet.com/ebooks Slovenia Today ...... 204 if Slovenia were History ...... 206 100 people

Slovenian Way of Life ..... 216 on the Gulf of in order t incursions. In the next century, th 5 Get inspired to travel Arts ...... 219 and moved into the rest of Slove The award-winning Lonely Planet Traveller is the most exciting magazine for people who want to see more of the world. The Slovenian Table ...... 224 2000–900 Go online to fi nd out more and see the latest subscription off er. BC 58 would be Catholic Bronze Age settlers C 3 would be Muslim build wooden huts trib 2 would be Orthodox Christian on stilts, farm, raise ics 1 would be Protestant cattle, and produce do 36 would be No confirmed faith coarse pottery in the on S lonelyplanet.com/magazine Ljubljana Barje, a the marshy area south of present-day Ljubljana STAY IN TOUCH lonelyplanet.com/contact AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 twitter.com/ %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 lonelyplanet ISBN 978-1-74179-943-9 5 2 4 9 9 Paper in this book is certified USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607 facebook.com/ against the Forest Stewardship %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 lonelyplanet Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ lonelyplanet.com/ 9 781741 799439 management of the world’s forests. %020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112 newsletter

sslovenia-7-cover.inddlovenia-7-cover.indd 2 77/02/2013/02/2013 11:21:4011:21:40 AAMM File 00-contents-slo7.dwg

Book Slovenia 7 Initial Mapping Date Road Scale All key roads labelled? Hierarchy Date Title Hydro Chapter 00-Colour Highlights & Contents Editor Cxns Spot colours removed? Hierarchy Nthpt Masking in Illustrator done? Symbols Author Mark Baker MC Cxns Date Book Inset/enlargement correct? Off map Notes dest'ns Border Country Contents Key - Author Cxns Date

Basefile regi (TG_2010) Final Ed Cxns Date KEY FORMAT SETTINGS

New References - Number of Rows (Lines) Editor Check Date

MC Check Date Column Widths and Margins

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PAGE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE ON THE In-depth reviews, detailed listings 32 ROAD and insider tips

Prekmurje p196

Štajerska & Koroška p164 Gorenjska p67 Ljubljana p34

Primorska & Notranjska Dolenjska & p98 Bela Krajina p138

PAGE VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO

SURVIVAL HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH241 TRIP at Brnik, 27km north of Ljubljana. In the arrivals hall 231 there’s a Slovenia Tour- ist Information Centre desk (STIC; h11am-11pm Mon, Wed & Fri, 10am-10pm GUIDE Tue & Thu, 10.30am-10.30pm Sat, 12.30pm-12.30am Sun), a hotel-booking telephone and an ATM. Some nine car-rental agencies, including Atet, Avis, Budget, Europcar and Hertz, have outlets opposite the Directory A–Z...... 232 terminal. From its base at Brnik, the Slovenian flag-carrier, Adria Airways (JP; %01-369 10 10, 080 13 00; www.adria Transport...... 241 -airways.com), serves some 20 European destinations on regularly scheduled flights, Adria connections include three or four daily from Mu- Transport nich, Frankfurt and Zürich; Language...... 248 daily from Amsterdam and London (Luton); and useful Passport connections to other former Virtually everyone entering Yugoslav capitals. GETTING THERE Slovenia must have a valid Other airlines with regu- Index...... 257 passport, although citizens larly scheduled flights to and & AWAY of the EU as well as Swit- from Ljubljana include: Entering the zerland need only produce Air France (AF; %01-244 Country their national identity card on 34 47; www.airfrance.com/si) Border formalities with Slov- arrival for stays of up to 30 Daily flights to Paris (CDG). days. It’s a good idea to carry Map Legend...... 263 enia’s fellow European Union ČSA Czech Airlines (OK; your passport or other identi- neighbours – Italy, Austria %04-206 17 50; www.czechair fication at all times. and Hungary are now virtu- lines.com) Flights to Prague. ally nonexistent. is EasyJet (EZY; %04-206 16 entering the EU in July 2013 77; www.easyjet.com) Low- Our Writers...... 264 and plans to implement the Air cost daily flights to London Schengen border rules soon Stansted. after. Until then expect a Airports & Airlines Finnair (AY; %in Helsinki 358- somewhat closer inspection Slovenia’s only international airport receiving regular 9-818 888; www.finnair.com) of your documents – national Flights to Helsinki. ID (for EU citizens) or pass- scheduled flights is Ljublja- % port and, in some cases, a na’s Jože Pučnik Airport Lufthansa (LH; 01-434 visa when travelling to/from (LJU/Aerodrom Ljubljana; %04- 72 46; www.lufthansa.com; Croatia. 206 19 81; www.lju-airport.si/ Gosposvetska cesta 6) Code- eng; Zgornji Brnik 130a, Brnik) shared flights with Adria.

CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL

Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes , which might use less fuel per kilometre per person than most cars but travel much greater

distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHEDwho wish to do so, to offset BY the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contribu- tions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet off- sets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel. Mark Baker, Paul Clammer, Steve Fallon Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first

Look out for these icons: Our author’s top A green or No payment recommendation sustainable option required ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

LJUBLJANA �������������������34 Otočec ob Krki ��������������������� 150 Around Otočec ob Krki �������� 151 GORENJSKA ������������������67 Kostanjevica na Krki ������������152 Škofja Loka ����������������������������� 68 Posavje Region ����������������������154 Radovljica ��������������������������������73 BELA KRAJINA �����������������������157 Bled ������������������������������������������76 Metlika ������������������������������������157 Bohinj ��������������������������������������� 85 Metlika Wine Area ����������������159 Kranjska Gora �������������������������90 Črnomelj ��������������������������������159 Triglav National Park ������������� 94 Around Črnomelj ������������������ 161 Kolpa Valley ����������������������������162 PRIMORSKA & NOTRANJSKA ��������������� 98 ŠTAJERSKA & PRIMORSKA �������������������������� 100 KOROŠKA ������������������� 164 Soča Valley ��������������������������� 100 ŠTAJERSKA �����������������������������165 Central Primorska ����������������107 Kozjansko Region ������������������165 Karst Region �������������������������� 112 Rogaška Slatina ��������������������169 The Coast ������������������������������ 115 Rogatec ����������������������������������172 NOTRANJSKA ������������������������� 131 Ptuj ������������������������������������������172 Postojna ���������������������������������� 131 Around Ptuj ����������������������������178 Cerknica & Around ����������������135 Maribor ����������������������������������178 Lož Valley ��������������������������������136 Maribor Pohorje ��������������������182 Central Pohorje Region ��������184 DOLENJSKA & BELA ����������������������������������������186 KRAJINA ����������������������138 Šempeter �������������������������������� 191 DOLENJSKA ���������������������������139 Upper Valley ������������ 191 Ribnica & Around ������������������139 KOROŠKA �������������������������������192 Nova Štifta ����������������������������142 Slovenj Gradec ����������������������192 Stična ��������������������������������������142 Bogenšperk Castle ����������������143 PREKMURJE ��������������� 196 Valley ������������������������������144 Murska Sobota & Around ����197 Dolenjske Toplice ������������������145 Radenci ���������������������������������200 Kočevski Rog ��������������������������146 Moravske Toplice ������������������201 Novo Mesto ����������������������������147 › Slovenia Vršiø Pass Mt Triglav Zigzag through scenic Join locals scaling Slovenia's Wolfsberg Alpine peaks (p92) highest mountain (p97) Lake Bled St Veit Behold this emerald green lake Soøa River (Šent Vid) and picturesque castle (p76) Raft the Soøa from Bovec, adventure central (p100) Klagenfurt (Celovec) Villach (Beljak)

A U S T R I A River Prevalje Tarvisio (TrbiÅ) MeÅica Rateøe Kranjska Karavanke Eisenkappel Gora Gozd Martuljek K Tunnel (Æelezna Kapla) a r Ørna na I T A L Y Jesenice a v a n k e Koroškem Vršiø Pass MeÅa J Mangart a Soløava u at Raduha l Jalovec Vr Zgorjne Jezersko Razor Bled Luøe ob i Triglav K Savinja a Grintovec LogarskaDolina Kanin a Lesce m s SavinjiRiver Rombon n (2864m) Plateau n i A l p (2587m) Lake Bled TrÅiø k - S a v i n j a (2208m) A l Bovec L p s Radovljica e Lake StorÅiø Radmirje Soøa pe Komna Krvavec na Bohinj Plateau JoÅe Krn Stara Kokrica Cerklje na Gornji Grad Kobarid FuÅina Puønik River Æelezniki River Airport Gorenjskem Vogel Porezen Kamnik Matajur Brnik Tolmin Loka Hills River Mengeš Radomlje Kozjak Cerkno Škofja Blegoš Cividale Cerkno Lubnik Škofja River DomÅale (Øedad) LokaMedvode Kanal Hills Šmarna Gora Litija Sava River Valley Idrija Hills Æiri Dragomer Wet the whistle at this T r n o v s k i G o Spodnjaz d Idrija LJUBLJANA Šmartno pri Litiji ideal spot (p112) a Marsh Idrija bljan Škofljica Vrhnika Lju Ivanøna Gorica (Gorica) Palmanova Šempeter Logatec Ig Grosuplje Vipava Ajdovšøina Valley Borovnica Krka Muljava River Vipavski KriÅ FuÅina Vipava Monfalcone Komen Zagradec Krka Soøa (TrÅiø) K a r s t Predjama Rakek River Castle Cerknica Postojna Caves Postojna Nova Štifta Santa Croce SodraÅica (KriÅ) SeÅana Lake Ribnica Cerknica Villa Opicina Divaøa River Gulf of (Opøine) Lipica Pivka Trieste Škocjan Trieste (Trst) Caves Koøevje Muggia (Milje) Ankaran Izola Slavnik Piran Bertoki Ilirska Bistrica Koper Predjama Castle Lucija (Jadransko PortoroÅ Hrastovlje Scale this fortress wedged Morje) Seøovlje halfway up a cliff face (p134) Umag C R O A T I A Škocjan Caves Delnice Opatija Piran Enter the immense system of Rijeka Visit this best-preserved karst caves (p112) () medieval Venetian port (p122) Pazin Postojna Caves Poreø Tour the seemingly endless parade of crystal fancies (p131) Top Experiences › Zalalöv› Hills Šalovci o øk Leibnitz ri o Maøkovci H U N G A R Y (Lipnica) G Bad Radkersburg Moravske Mura River (Radgona) Toplice Bogojina Selnica S Murska l o ob Muri Gornja Sobota K o b a n s k o H i l l s v Radgona Dobrovnik e Bakovci Muta Radlje ob Dravi n Beltinci s k Selnica e Lendava G Vuhred Drava ob Dravi o (Lendva) Vuzenica Lenart r River Maribor i Lovrenc na River c e Ravne na Koroškem Ljutomer Pohorju Ruše Buøkovci Æigartov Spodnje Hoøe Slovenj Gradec Pohorje Mas s if Dornava Rogla Ptuj OrmoÅ Središøe Slovenska ob Dravi Bistrica Øakovec Šoštanj Zreøe Pragersko Kidriøevo Velenje Goriøak Mozirje Ptujska Gora l s Cirkulane Letuš Slovenske Poljøane i l VaraÅdin Konjice H o z e Nazarje H a l Donaøka Gora Šempeter Celje Æalec Rogaška Ptuj Rogatec Šentjur Slatina Enjoy a maze of red roofs Trbovlje Krapina and medieval streets (p172) Laško Podøetrtek

K o Zagorje z ja Bistrica Zidani Most ns ko ob Sotli Radeøe Sevnica Senovo Boštanj Sava Podsreda Castle Krško Mokronog River BreÅice C R O A T I A Trebnje Kostanjevica Šmarjeta na Krki Terme ØateÅ Šmarješke Toplice Šentjernej Kostanjevica Cave ObreÅje Dvor Novo Otoøec ob Krki Pleterje Kostanjevica Mesto Monastery Castle Soteska Dolenjske Toplice G o r j a n c i K o ø e Uršna Sela v s Ljubljana k i BoÅakovo R Indulge in the perfect balance of Rog o Metlika g size and quality of life (p34) Mirna Podzemelj Gora KaniÅarica Ørnomelj Kolpa Adlešiøi Dragatuš Karlovac Ri Vinica Æuniøi ver

ELEVATION Vrbovsko

1500m 1000m 500m 100m 0 20 km 0 0 10 miles AOUR beat-up oldSTORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Mark Baker Coordinating Author, Plan Your Trip, Ljubljana, Gorenjska Based permanently in Prague, Mark has lived and worked in for more than 20 years, first as a journalist for The Economist Group and then for Bloomberg News and Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty. He’s a frequent visitor to Slovenia and a huge fan of Piran, and Ljubljana, among many other places. In addition to this book, Mark is co-author of the Lonely Planet guides to Prague, Romania and Poland. Read more about Mark at: lonelyplanet.com/members/markbaker Paul Clammer Primorska & Notranjska, Dolenjska & Bela Krajina, Štajerska & Koroška, Prekmurje, Directory A–Z, Transport Paul Clammer has contributed to over 25 Lonely Planet guidebooks, and worked as a tour guide in countries from Turkey to Morocco. In a previous life he may even have been a molecular biologist. His first experi- ence of Slovenia was a gloriously bright winter holiday, much of which was spent sitting wrapped up in pavement street cafes in Ljubljana drinking hot chocolate, and walking on the thick, frozen ice of Lake Bled. Fun, but he was still happy to research this guide in the joys of summer. Find him at paulclammer.com, or on Twitter as @paulclammer.

Read more about Paul at: lonelyplanet.com/members/paulclammer Steve Fallon Understand Slovenia Steve has been travelling to Slovenia since the early 1990s, when almost no one but the Slovenes had ever heard of the place. Never mind, it was his own private Idaho for over a decade. Though on še govori slovensko jamski človek (he still speaks Slovene like a caveman), Steve considers part of his soul to be Slovenian, and returns as often as he can for a glimpse of the in the sun, a dribble of bučno olje (pumpkin-seed oil) and a dose of the ‘dual’.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 7th edition – May 2013 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74179 943 9 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 2013 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. 20

Itiner- Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide the starting point for the trip of a aries lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet .com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

Kranjska•# AUSTRIA Gora c Vršič Pass ÷#Triglav National Park Mt Triglav

R •#Lake Bled Soča Valley É (2864m) Radovljica •# •# •#

Bovec •# É Velika Planina

É •#

É Lake Bohinj É •#Kobarid •# Kamnik

ITALY É

É

#_ LJUBLJANA

•# Idrija

É

•#Predjama Castle

One Week Mountain Majesty

Slovenia has mountains in spades. From Ljubljana to Predjama Castle, this itinerary is perfect for active travellers looking to make the most of their time. Begin in Ljubljana, where you can buy any hiking gear you might need and bookstores stock excellent regional maps. From Ljubljana, make your way to Kam- nik and the picturesque, high-altitude pastureland of Velika Planina. Then head back toward Kranj and continue north to impossibly cute Radovljica. Overnight here or a few kilometres north at Lake Bled. Use Bled or nearby Lake Bohinj for forays into Triglav National Park. Both are popu- lar approaches for scaling Mt Triglav. Proceed northward to the ski centre Kranjska Gora and the heart-stopping Vršič Pass. (Note the pass is closed in winter.) The road down de- posits you in Primorska’s Soča Valley. Following the Soča River will bring you to the activi- ties centre of Bovec and the WWI battlegrounds around Kobarid. From here, head down through Tolmin to Idrija. Keep going south and you’ll reach stunning Predjama Castle. 21

•#Kranjska Gora AUSTRIA c Triglav Vršič ÷#National Pass Park Lake Bled

•# É •# •#Bovec Radovljica •# Lake Bohinj •#Kobarid TRIP YOUR PLAN É Škofja •# Loka

ITALY É #_ LJUBLJANA Nova •#Gorica TNRARIES ITINER

•# É

•#Štanjel •# Postojna

Škocjan Caves•# É Piran CROATIA •#•# Portorož

10 to 14 Days Essential Slovenia

Travellers wanting to experience the highlights of the country’s alpine, karst and coastal regions should begin in the country’s capital, Ljubljana. Allow at least two nights to take in the sights, restaurants and beautiful riverside setting. Drive, train or take the bus north to Lake Bled. If you’ve got time, stop at one or both of the historic towns of Škofja Loka or Radovljica on your way. Lake Bled merits at least a night’s stay to allow time to walk around the lake and take a pletna (gondola) to Bled Island. Plan for a longer sojourn if you intend to try an adventure outing, like rafting or canyoning. Lovely Lake Bohinj, 26km southwest of Lake Bled and accessible by bus, makes for a more rustic, less touristy base and has the added advantage of direct views to Mt Triglav. Both Bled and Bohinj are good starting points for further exploration of Triglav National Park. Make your way northward to Kranjska Gora, the country’s skiing capital and another good base for walking and hiking. It’s also the northern terminus of the spectacularly beau- tiful Vršič Pass, a high-altitude roadway that can be traversed by car, bus or bike during summer, but is closed to vehicles from November to April. The Vršič Pass twists and turns for some 50km down to the country’s white-water rafting capital of Bovec. Overnight here or in nearby Kobarid, a pretty town with a Mediterranean feel, amazing WWI history and some of the country’s best restaurants. Continue southward through Nova Gorica to the Vipava Valley, the centre of the Karst region that stretches southeast to the Croatian border. Little towns here, like Štanjel to the west, are rich in olives, ruby-red Teran wine, pršut (dry-cured ham) and red-tiled roofs. Further south, following the main Hwy E70 to the coast near Divača, is the awe-inspiring Škocjan Caves, part of an immense system of limestone caves in this region. From here, it’s just a skip to the coastal resorts of Portorož and Piran. If you’re looking for romance, choose Piran; if it’s sun and fun, Portorož is the centre of the action. The return journey to Ljubljana passes through Postojna, another amazing cave. 22

AUSTRIA Maribor •# Jeruzalem-Ljutomer •# É Ormož

•# PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Ptuj É •#

Haloze Hills•#

Rogaška É Celje•# Slatina•#

É •# Terme Olimia #_ LJUBLJANA TNRARIES ITINER

ITALY É

•#Postojna Izola Lipica •#Divača

•# •#Škocjan Caves CROATIA Koper É Piran •# •# •# •#Hrastovlje Karst & Coast •#Portorož •# É Wine & Spas Sečovlje

One Week Two Days to One Week Wine & Spas Karst & Coast

Eastern Slovenia is known for both Combining the best of two worlds – wines and spas. This tour includes the fun-filled coast and the evocative, the best of each. sun-baked Karst – this itinerary is de- Start in Maribor, the region’s big- signed to be driven, but most major gest city and cultural hub. Make your way points can be reached by train or bus. south to the former Roman stronghold and From Ljubljana follow the A1 motorway thoroughly charming town of Ptuj. to Postojna, then continue to Divača and Head east to Ormož, for the start of the the awesome Škocjan Caves. If you have important Jeruzalem-Ljutomer wine dis- your own wheels, take some R&R at the trict, home to the country’s best whites. Walk bucolic oasis of Lipica. or hike the wine trail here. Return to Divača and head southwest to Return to Ptuj and head southwest into Koper, an affordable coastal place to stay, another important wine region, the Haloze then follow the coast to Izola, Piran, and Hills, celebrated for its pinot blanc, sau­ Portorož, with all types of accommodation vignon and riesling. There’s a wonderful for different budgets. footpath here, too: the Haloze Highlands To the south along the coast is Sečovlje Trail. and its famous salt pans, a relaxing antidote Head southwest from the Haloze Hills to brash Portorož. to find atmospheric Rogaška Slatina, A spur road just before the Croatian Slo ­venia’s oldest and largest spa. It’s a border crosses the Drnica River and links veritable ‘cure factory’ with a dozen hotels, up with Route 11, which takes you back to treatments and therapies. Ljubljana. At the Rižana exit, take a detour To the south stretches another well-known south for the Karst village of Hrastovlje wine region: the Bizeljsko-Sremič area. This and its wonderful church. region is noted for its medium-dry whites and reds and for repnice, which are caves for storing wine. Not surprisingly, you’ll find another inviting spa nearby, the Terme Olimia. Return to Maribor via Celje. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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