J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-62-01-05 on 1 January 1934. Downloaded from
34
DOWN SOU'rH. By U. P. A. (Uontinued from p. 366, vol. lxi.)
V.-THE RETURN. The Chakdina dropped her moorings and glided slowly towards the harbour heads. An array of shipping as variegated as one might expect to find in a nauticaJ museum was passed in review. The flagship of the East Indies Squadron, a towering Orient luxury liner, a dingy tramp loading copra for Hamburg, and another discharging iron girders from Hull, a Goanese schooner with sails like a patchwork quilt, a trim little cutter flying the burgee of the Ceylon Y. C., and graceful dhows, swift launches, scarred fishing boats and small craft of every shape arid description by guest. Protected copyright. composed a picture brimfull of colour and liveliness. Outside, a gentle breeze ruffled a turquoise sea. The crests of the wave lets, kissed by the sun, reflected back a thousand silvery smiles. To leeward, the long, low fringe of the western coast merged into its liquid cradle belciw and blended with the overhanging haze above, as if it were but a soft study in pastel. ' Gradually the sun sank until, as it neared the horizon line, it turned from pink to fiery, coppery reo, and went down with a swiftness to be counted in seconds. Then, from out the Indian Ocean arose great billowing masses of cumuli, their bosoms in grey shadow, their edges aflame. Beyond them, in infinite space, the sky blazed in a riot of red, orange and gold. Presently the transformation progressed through a wondrous range of greens and blues, until the purple pall of night, glittering with a myriad http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ stars, enfolded the universe in a sleepy em brace. Over the starboard quarter the lighthouse at Colombo sent its friendly messages in our wake, but even its powerful beam seemed somnolently lazy in the velvet night. The wind dropped. At once the air became humid and hot. Away and away beyond the contours of the clouds, sheet lightning illumined the distant sky, and the deep, muffled rumble of thunder echoed over the surface of the waters. Occasionally, a nearer flash, followed by a more sharply defined roar, startled the senses into a keener perception of
Nature's restless imminence. on September 30, 2021 Forward in the darkness, the look-out answered a hail from the bridge and the bell sound.ed the end of the second dog-watch.
We went below to prepare for dinner but, although the cabin was epacious and airy, it felt insufferably oppressive. We were the only passengers aboard and we dined with the captain and chief engineer, the J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-62-01-05 on 1 January 1934. Downloaded from
U. P. A. 35
former a courteous, capable looking Devonian, the latter a cheerful, pawky Clydesider. Have you ever noticed how a shipping line stamps the attitude and bearing of its officers with its own special mark? Perhaps this is not to be wondered at, since it is common knowledge to us that, in our own little sphere, certain queer folk such as sappers, highlanders, riflemen, etc., . possess characteristic peculiarities which distinguish them from the common herd. So, on board ship it is interesting to repeat the observation that a man is fashioned more by his immediate surroundings than by his general environment; it is not the sea or the Service, it is the ship or the corps which endows the individual with his more intimate and noticeable foibles and mannerism. Thus, in the officers of the P. & O . . are perpetuated the semi-na.val traditions of the old Blackwall frigates, in which official exactitude and strict discipline governed social as well as working hours. How different the atmosphere of the Allan and Anchor
liners, in which the officers, if canny, are always kindly; or of the ships of by guest. Protected copyright. the B.I.S.N., famous for their cheerful friendliness. Th~se divers types of bearing and behaviour are general and customary within the respective companies, and they are best exemplified amongst the deck officers. Engineers, whether terrestrial or marine, are usually a la'w unto themselves. One day I was standing on the deck of a ship which was nearing Suez. We were overhauling a Patrick Henderson boat, homeward bound from Burma. Our third engineer, Misterr Macpherrson, grimy and perspiring, emerged from the depths in search.of a breath of cool, clean aIr. As we neared the Henderson steamer, she sheered' off. " She doesn't seem to like us," I said. "No, sirr. But fine I ken' auld Captain Macnab; comes frae Dum barton-same 's mysel': he believes in keepin' strangerrs at a safe
distance." And, with that, Misterr Macpherrson descended into the http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ depths: As he reached the bottom of the steel ladder, I distinctly heard him chuckle. It was too hot and sticky for sleep in the cabin below, so we spent an uneasy night on the settees in the saloon. We were on deck at dawn. The coastline loomed through the early morning mist, and Tuticorin, lighted by the sun's first rays, presented a typically Eastern picture: Nowhere more than in India does one realize the full force of the saying that distance lends enchantment to the view; the shorter the distance the less the enchantment. on September 30, 2021
The anchor was let go inside the long ~orthern spit of Hare Island, four to five miles off the land. Although the bay is well sheltered, it is very shallow. Attempts have been made to dredge a deep water channel, . but they have been abandoned because it has been found that the sandy bottom overlies a bed of impervious rock. J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-62-01-05 on 1 January 1934. Downloaded from
36 Down South
After breakfast the ship's officers gave us a hearty send off, and we went ashore in a launch. The car followed in a lighter, which was propelled by a lateen sail. This was primitive enough; but, on the quay, the crane seemed more primitive still. However, it is often the case that when things appear to be at their worst, they turn out for the best notably in the wonderful land of Hind. The car was put ashore safe and sound. Provided the weather is good, the sea route, Tuticorin-Colombo, is to be preferred to the road-sea-rail journey, Madura-Manaar. The former is less exacting, not so crowded and more comfortable. But in bad weather, and especially during the monsoon, the Gulf of Manaar will test all but the most seasoned sailors, and the landing may be difficult. Tulicorin is the most southerly harb(Hlr of any size in India, and the second in importance in the Madras Presidency. It has had a chequered history. By capture, cession, or treaty, it has changed hands thus :- 1540, Portuguese; 1658. Dutch; 1782, English; 1785, Dutch; ~ 795, by guest. Protected copyright. English; 1818, Dutch; 1825, English ! ' 'l'here is an old Dutch cemetery, with skull and cross-bones over the ,gateway. It contains a number of tombstones bearing elaborately carved coats of arms. The history of Tuticorin is largely made up of accounts of more' or less serious squabbles botween the Dutch governors and ,the neighbouring British factors and collectors. Some of these accounts are amusing, and convey the impression that the British officials were expert :in the art of leg-pulling, not always of a gentle kind. For long, Tuticorin has been a Christian missionary centre. The old fathers of the Church were not devoid of a sense of humour, but he must have been a grim type of joker who named the big RC. church" Our Lady of the Snows," particularly as Tuticorin means i. The place in which the wells dry up." Water has always been a difficulty here; it has to be piped from a distance,as allthe wells in the town are brackish. The surrounding http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ country is covered with but a thin layer of soil or sand, and the vegetation is stunted and scanty. Nowadays, it is as a great cotton exporting seaport that Tuticorinis noted. From 8.30 a.m. to 10.30 a.m. we were busily engaged clearing ourselves, Cafe Noir and the car through the Customs, getting away from the docks and seOttling with the shippers. With the last named an hour was spent in proving firstly, that the charges need only be met once; and secondly,that a receipt for payment was essential. It was an hour well spent because,
three months afterwards, I was billed again, and the hardly-earned receipt on September 30, 2021 proved a trump card. Life moves in leisurely fashion in Tuticorin, and no wonder, for the climate is very trying: hot and excessively humid. By the time we got under way we were all streaming with perspiration, and our clothing clung to us in moist, warm folds-ugh! For the first thirty miles the road was hot, airless and devoid of shade. Also, the surface was so bad that our J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-62-01-05 on 1 January 1934. Downloaded from
U. P. A, 37 speed was kept below 15 m.p.h. After that, conditions improved and we were soon dried .and refreshed by the currents of air set up by the fast moving car.
We ate our picnic tiffin in the dak bungalow at Koilpatti, fifty miles north of Tuticorin. This dak bungalow is a remarkable. looking old two storey building, lofty, open to the winds~when they blow-clean and provided with good hand punkahs. Behind the bungalow is an ancient, temple, the tank of which is fed by a spring welliQg from rock. Near by is it solitary mass of perpendicular rock which is honeycombed by ramifica tions of an old cave, partly natural, partly artificial, and wholly insanitary. From this point the scenery was varied and interesting, through Sattur Virudupatti and Tirumangalam. It was market day at Virudupatti, and the scene was charming. The ceQtre of this small town is occupied by a fine, rock-hewn tank, and from this acquatic "square" radiate the mam streets, lined with shops and crowded with country people. As all these streets were roofed with chittai by guest. Protected copyright. matting and the roadways were well watered, the change from the heat and glare outside was as welcome as it was stimulating. 1 am told that, in Southern India, it is not an uncommon practice to roof the smaller towns in this way; but, for us, Virudupatti was a unique find. Tirumangalam is noted for its dyed fabrics, and also has a reputation as a sanatorium for .that common complaint in India, asthma. By bearing slightly left at Sholavandum you avoid Madura, which is only a few miles to the east. At Kodaikanal road, about 124 milesffom Tuticorin, the road forks; left to KodaikanaC 39 miles distant, and right to Dindigul, 21 miles away.
Before taking the latter route, a word about Kodailmnal may be of use to those who would avoid the more expensive holiday centre of these parts,. http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ Ootacamund. The first white settlers in Kodaikanal (" The Forest of Creepers If) were American missionaries from Madura. In the old days sickness took heavy toll of these people, and they found that their original choice ofa sallatorium-Jaffna, in Ceylon-was not a good one; so they built the first bungalow in Kodaikanal, and there their invalids have convalesced ever stnce. The next bungalow was put up by Kodaikanal's grand old man, the Collector, John Blackbourne. His initial attempt to settle in the place was· disastrous, for the first fire lighted in the new house reduced the building on September 30, 2021 to ashes. Kodaikanal is now a flourishing little hill station with missions, hospitals, schools and an observatory perched at a height of 7,700 feet .. The climate resembles that of Ooty, but is more equable and dry. Rolling downs, woods, streams and a lovely lake provide scenery of the best kind J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-62-01-05 on 1 January 1934. Downloaded from
38 Down South found in India. It is surprising to discover that the lake is an artificial one. Of the many popular beauty spots may be mentioned "Doctor's Delight," a bold, breezy bluff from which is obtained a wonderful panoramlC VIew. ,About 500 feet below the station is Shembaganur (".Magnolia Village") where the Jesuits have an important training college for their missionary students. The course of instruction lasts for seven years .. To return to the Madura-Dindigul road: this traverses the defile through which also pass the headwaters of the Vaigai River and the S.l. Railway. The sun was setting. The ridges, rocks and clefts of the hills to the east stood out in the golden light, while the features of the western range gradually disappeared in purple shadow till nought but their sharp, black contours could be discerned against the glowing skyline. To the north, the valley prepared for sleep under cover of the ground mist. A few bEllated cattle hurried on their homeward way. The goodwives were cooking by guest. Protected copyright. the evening meal, and over each village hung a pall of pungent smoke. The day was ended. It was dark when we arrived at Dindigul. As the dak bungalow was in urgent need of a spring cleaning, we slept in the garden-at least. we thought it was the garden. Next morning~to Georgina's momentary dismay-we found it was a public footpath. As regards metalwork, Dindigul is to the south what Aligarh is to the north; and as regards tobacco, Dindigul (cum .Messrs·. Spencer) is to India what Havana is to Cuba. Hotvever, the fame of Dindigul does not wholly l"est on such mundane objects as locks and cigars. for Dindigul has a history which, by virtue of the tactical importance of the place, is a stirring
'u. P.A. 39
Skirting the northern outcrops of the hills, a pleasant drive of thirty seven miles brought us to PaIn i-a famous religious centre. Between 1792 and 1796 the chief of this place gave us much trouble-until he was captured and 10,dged in Dindigul Fort. How often do we find religion and war components of the same fiery emulsion! Palni owes its importance to the pilgrimage temple of Subrahmanya. Siva had two sons, Subrahmanya and Ganesa. The former used the swift peacock as his chariot; the latter, the elephant-headed, was portly, ponderous and slow. Siva offered a prize of a pomegranate to the son who should win a race round the globe. Mounted on his peacock, Subrah manya-the first of the world's" aces "-set off at a furious pace. On seeing this, Ganesa thoughtfully scratched the back of his left ear with his hind paw, walked round his father, and claimed that. as the old gentle man was all in all, he (Ganesa) was entitled to the prize. Siva, much amused, awarded him the pomegranate. Subrahmanya, on completing the course in less than Schneider Trophy time, . was furious to find that he had been outmanoouvred by his less by guest. Protected copyright. active but more mmble-witted brother. Even when Siva, to appease him, said, "But thou art thyself a fruit" (" palani "), Subrahmanya went off in a rage, betaking himself to the place now known as Palni, where his temple to this day stands. At the same time itis only fair to add that, like so mfLlly other holy places in India, this temple is also venerated by the Mussulmans who claim that a very reverend faquir of theirs, one Palni Bava, is buried within its precincts. . The main temple is perched on a rock 450 feet high and commands a fine view of the Palni Hills and the rich (and exceedingly malarious) country around. Its approaches are lined by subsidiary temples and great stone images of peacocks, and of course, monkeys, live ones, are everywhere. Faquirs, yogis, sadhus, mendicants and pilgrims crowd round the place. Milk and fish from the west coast are favourite offerings, and it is said that http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ the le,tter, on this' pilgrimage, will keep fresh for as long as seven days, even in the hottest weather. However, that statement is not vouched for here. Subrahmanya's seven-day vow of silence is often observed, and is sometimes ensured by the use of a mouth lock. This lock consists of a silver wire which is threaded through both cheeks and passing across the mouth over the tongue is fastened outside in front of the lips. Sometimes a skewer is thrust through the tip of the tongue. So far as is known no
st'l.tistics are available to show whether mouth locking is commoner amongst on September 30, 2021 the male or the female pilgrims.
(To be continued.)