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EDITOR´S LETTER Havana in Biennial Havana is a living city, seemingly preparing for its next conquest. The city entrenches itself, suffers, smells, breathes, screams with joy and pain, gus- sies up, and heals itself. Havana rules itself, and it sets its own pace.

In an interview with OnCuba, the Official Historian of the City of Havana, Eusebio Leal, defined Havana as “a state of mind.” I would agree. The Ha- vana of the International Film Festival, in December, is flirtatious, showy. PRESIDENT The Havana of the Ballet Festival is refined and subtle, it wears heels and HUGO CANCIO suits. The Book-Fair Havana is tumultuous, warm... And Havana during [email protected] EDITORIAL DIRECTOR the Biennial is a captivating, roving party. TAHIMI ARBOLEYA Organized by the Wifredo Lam Contemporary Art Center, the Havana [email protected] Biennial is one of the most important cultural events on the island, and has a significant impact on the contemporary visual arts scene in the Americas and the world. The first Biennial took place in 1984. Although since its fourth iteration its frecuency changed to a triennial celebration, it still retains the name by which it became known internationally. EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR ARIEL MACHADO Beyond its main venues —the Wifredo Lam Contemporary Art Center, the Hispanic-American Cultural Center, the Center for the Development [email protected] DESIGN & LAYOUT of the Visual Arts, the National Museum of Fine Arts, and the University PATRICIO HERRERA VEGA of Arts—, several years ago the Biennial surpassed its physical limits and ELIZABETH PÉREZ DIZ turned the city into a great art gallery, spilling onto the Malecón and other public spaces.

The event has traditionally been designed from different central themes that guide the curatorship of each edition. Some recent theoretical PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR references were “Tradition and Contemporaneity,” “The Challenge to Colonization,” “Art-Society-Reflection,” “The Individual and his Memory,” OTMARO RODRÍGUEZ “Dynamics of Urban Culture,” “Artistic Practices and Social Imaginaries.” COPYEDITING This year’s is “The Construction of the Possible.” CHARO GUERRA

The 13th Havana Biennial is celebrated from April 12 to May 12, 2019, with the intent of turning the city into a cultural corridor where creators and audiences interact.

With the participation of artists from all over the world, and the inclu- sion of Cuban creators from within and outside the island, without dis- TRANSLATION tinction of expressions, techniques, or formats, and constantly seeking a ERIN GOODMAN closer approach between the residents of Havana and those who visit it, WEB EDITOR CUBA the Biennial is a party for the imagination and the senses, a living stage of the best that contemporary visual art can offer. MÓNICA RIVERO [email protected] If you want to get to know a fresh, provocative, challenging city, visit Havana during the days of the Biennial. ON THE COVER: Juanito Delgado. Photo: Izuky Pérez

Articles may be reproduced, in whole or in part, as long as the source is cited. Reproduction of photographs without the editor’s permission is prohibited. Any views or opinions expressed are those of the articles’ authors, and do not necessarily reflect the views of OnCuba. > OnCuba and the OnCuba logo are registered® trademarks of Fuego Enterprises, Inc., its subsidiaries or divisions. > OnCuba Travel is a trademark™ of Fuego Enterprises, Inc., its subsidiaries or divisions. > Oncuba Travel a publication of Fuego Media Group, a division of Fuego Enterprises, Inc., a publicly traded company (FUGI). > OnCuba © 2012 by Fuego Enterprises, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Apr.-May. 2019 oncubamagazine.com 11 Lights & Shadows PEDRO PABLO OLIVA CONTENTS “LEAVING A RECORD ONCUBA TRAVEL MAGAZINE OF MY TIME” ESTRELLA DÍAZ Pedro Pablo Oliva has been one of the most relevant Cuban artists since the end of the last century; his sharp, insistent eye is combined with a gripping sensitivity. 28 52 Arts & Culture My favorite place in the world THE 13TH HAVANA BIENNIAL: HAVANA, A CITY OF OLD CINEMAS IN SEARCH OF THE POSSIBLE CYNTHIA DE LA CANTERA TORANZO Fernando Pérez, director of Suite Habana, talks to us ROSSANA BOUZA FAJARDO about cinemas that are hard to find in today’s Internet In addition to its mojitos and tropical heat, Cuba is age. Large cinemas with huge theaters, balconies, and known for one of the most inclusive and important neoclassical architecture sprawling down 23rd Street. artistic events: the Havana Biennial. Its 13th edition provides an opportunity to see an interesting sample of Cuban and international art, and to enjoy the city 32 while it’s converted into an impressive art gallery. 16

Cover Cuba with Christopher Baker BEHIND THE WALL ¡VIVAN LOS HARLISTAS! Christopher Baker rode 7,000 miles through Cuba WITH JUANITO DELGADO on his BMW R100GS motorcycle in 1996, sparking a lasting love affair with the island and its quirky LAURA ARAÑÓ ARENCIBIA motorcycle community. Detrás del Muro (Behind the Wall) has been one of most impactful and popular components of recent 36 Havana biennials. Juanito Delgado, its creator and curator, has been working since 2012 on this mega- exhibition in its third iteration this year, with almost 70 invited artists. 20 Shortcuts Sports CIENFUEGOS, “HOT TALK” PEARL OF THE SOUTH AT HAVANA’S PARQUE CENTRAL ERIC CARABALLOSO HOWARD AXELROD Considered one of the most beautiful and welcoming Travel writer and lover of all things Cuba, Howard cities in Cuba, Cienfuegos celebrates its bicentennial Axelrod takes a turn in the batter's box at Havana's on April 22. OnCuba recommends five places in the baseball Esquina Caliente (Hot Corner). Did he hit a city and its surroundings that are not to be missed. grand slam, home run, or strike out? 40 58

Entrepreneurs Gastronomic Review THE CUBA THAT TOURISTS DEFINITELY NOT JUST A CAFÉ DON’T ALWAYS SEE ALICIA GARCÍA Dear reader, if you wish, you could have an CECILIA CRESPO unforgettable experience as an interactive consumer and be in contact, whether you know it or not, with Sheila, Nelson, and Alex have their own travel agency. international and local art in every dish. The three young entrepreneurs offer tourists an intimate, anecdotal, and authentic Cuba, moving in all directions. They are Quaquaversal Tours. 64 46

Music Billboard IDANIA VALDÉS, BEYOND APRIL-MAY | 2019 BUENA VISTA SOCIAL CLUB ALEJANDRO R. CHANG OnCuba’s Billboard is your guide to enjoying Cuban ALEJANDRO R. CHANG art to the fullest. And since this issue celebrates the Idania Valdés has graced an impressive number visual arts, our special invitation is to the 13th Havana of stages during her short career. The daughter of Biennial. But there’s much more—everything you need Amadito Valdés and the youngest voice of the Buena to enjoy Cuban art in Cuba is in here. Vista Social Club, Idania shares her own aspirations and reveals herself as the great musician that she is. 70 52 CONTRIBUTORS ROSSANA BOUZA FAJARDO LAURA ARAÑÓ ARENCIBIA I graduated in art history, but Contemporary art is my greatest I'm not an artist, nor do I trust passion—I love the challenges it history. I am currently studying brings me. I always dreamed of for a master's degree in Mexico becoming a great writer, but I City. Between the Havana was seduced by the visual arts. Biennial and the new season of Game of Thrones, I can’t wait for Behind the Wall with Juanito Delgado April to arrive. P. 20 13th Havana Biennial: In Search of the Possible P. 16

ESTRELLA DÍAZ CYNTHIA DE LA CANTERA CHRISTOPHER BAKER ERIC CARABALLOSO CECILIA CRESPO ALEJANDRO R. CHANG HOWARD AXELROD ALICIA GARCÍA My great-grandfather was a My favorite time: dawn. My Travel journalist, photographer, Talking about baseball (or about There are times when I talk I was born in Guanabo, but I I am a Massachusetts-based My admiration for my father – lighthouse keeper in the Morro, favorite book: any will do; author, adventure motorcyclist, soccer). Eating (Cuban) tamales. nonstop, although I also listen. don’t like the sun. On the other travel photographer and writer. founder of the famous Rancho my mother was born in a wooden Tenderness is not Enough; and tour leader, romantic (and Listening to Sting or Habana My silent aspect is only seen hand, I could never be far from I have photographed in 84 Luna and El Aljibe restaurants, house with a red roof built at the the entire Veintiuno collection by single). Cuba—exotic, eccentric, Abierta. Enjoying Blade Runner when I cling to my keyboard. I the sea. That’s why I continue countries on six continents and philosopher of gastronomy foot of the lighthouse. I’ve always Gente Nueva publishing house. and enigmatic—feeds my (the original one) or Modern have a passion for my family and clinging to the Malecón doing have traveled to 42 U.S. states. I and of all things about life – found La Giraldilla enigmatic My favorite song: "Strawberry insatiable curiosity and passion. Family. And reading, and writing, for a long time for Cuban culture journalism, which is what I more have visited Cuba four times and has enabled me to value the and beautiful…I feel very linked Fields." My favorite place: I feel like I’m Cuban in my heart and reading. I ask for no more. and a delicious book I am writing or less do best. am planning another visit later culinary and food culture not to Havana and I believe it is Havana. and soul. to distribute among my friends: this year. just to delight myself but also because of my relation with the Cienfuegos, Pearl Of The South Practical and Exotic Cooking Idania Valdés, as a fundamental space to sea: could it be because I am a Havana, A City Of Old Cinemas ¡Vivan los Harlistas! Handbook. “Hot Talk” At Havana’s Parque Central understand the human essence. I P. 40 Beyond Buena Vista Social Club am a co-founder of the Gourmet daughter of Yemayá? P. 32 P. 36 P. 52 P. 58 The Cuba That Tourists Don’t Always See Festival and author of several books on Cuban food. Pedro Pablo Oliva P. 46 Billboard April-May | 2019 "Leaving A Record Of My Time" P. 70 P. 28 Definitely Not Just A Café P. 64 16 ART & CULTURE

th Rossana Bouza Fajardo 13 The thirteenth edition of the Havana practices of the Caribbean, Latin America, its relationship to life; individuals and production, stimulating new models of Biennial, the most important visual arts Africa, and Asia. In recent years it has their memories; migration; indigenous coexistence, forms of community living, happening on the island, will be held opened to other regions of the world, and peoples’ knowledge systems; and social and networks of solidarity. from April 12 to May 12, with the title has become an international benchmark. imaginaries. La construcción de lo posible (The Con- With each Biennial, Havana becomes a Havana struction of the Possible). At its start the Biennial had an open The thirteenth edition has challenged great cultural corridor, allowing for inter- call and was a contest; starting with itself to enhance the transformational action between artists, curators, theorists, Founded in 1984 with the aim of re- its third iteration, the prizes and coun- nature of art. In the face of a contempo- managers, and the public. Furthermore, it searching, theorizing, and positioning try divisions were eliminated and the rary climate defined by armed conflicts, extends its reach beyond the visual arts, the arts of the so-called Global South artistic selection was made based on migration, violence, economic crises, and also promoting a close dialogue with mu- —an update on the term Third World— curatorial themes related to problems environmental deterioration, seeking sic, dance, and literature. This year, its cul- Biennial the Biennial not only meant an opening of the Global South, such as: the co- solutions from different perspectives mination will be a tribute to the “Wonder for Cuban art, but also an alternative existence of the traditional and the becomes a priority. So the primary focus City” of Havana on the 500th anniversary In Search of the Possible and legitimizing space for the artistic contemporary; globalization; art and of this Biennial is, from a base of artistic of its founding. THIS 2019 BIENNIAL PROMOTES ART AS A LIVING EVENT, WHERE CREATION AND LIFE MERGE

The Biennial will convene around 200 artists from more than 50 countries, ap- proximately 70 of whom are Cuban art- ists, including National Visual Arts Award One of the novelties of this Biennial will winners Manuel Mendive, Roberto Fa- be its expansion to other provinces: in belo, José Villa Soberón, René Francisco, Pinar del Río, the Farmacia project, direct- Eduardo Ponjuán, Pedro de Oraá, José ed by Juan Carlos Rodríguez; in Matanzas, Manuel Fors, José Ángel Toirac, and Pedro Ríos intermitentes by María Magdalena The Línea Street Cultural Corridor, under Pablo Oliva. Exhibitions will be hosted at Campos; in Cienfuegos, the collective ex- the direction of architect Vilma Bartolo- the Wifredo Lam Contemporary Art Cen- hibition Mar adentro; and, in Camagüey, mé, is one of the most ambitious ideas: ter, the National Council of Visual Arts, the International Video Art Festival. to revitalize the popular artery in the El Department of Art History at the Univer- the Office of the City Historian, Pabellón Vedado neighborhood, beginning from sity of Havana. The conferences, conver- Cuba, the National Museum of Fine Arts, In Havana, the event’s artistic map tran- the rescue of historical-cultural heritage, sations, and exchanges with Cuban and the University of the Arts (Instituto Supe- scends institutional sites, flooding the en- along with graphic interventions in the foreign academics, essayists, and cura- rior de Arte), the José Martí National Li- tire city with art. Thanks to the third edi- streets and buildings and updates to tors in previous biennials have enabled Over its 35 years the Biennial has sought brary and the Villa Manuela Gallery at the tion of Detrás del Muro (Behind the Wall), street fixtures. critical thinking about contemporary ar- to create alternative modes for the cir- Union of Writers and Artists of Cuba (UN- six kilometers of the Malecón seawall will tistic practices, especially those carried culation and consumption of art, which EAC), as well as in public spaces through- become a huge gallery. With more than Another Biennial offering is the Taller out in the Global South and its diaspora. go beyond white gallery spaces and the a kind of creative laboratory for imple- out the capital. 70 invited artists, passers-by can enjoy the Chullima, coordinated by Cuban artist mainstream market. It has been set up as menting new cartographies and alterna- multisensory experience in which all kinds Wilfredo Prieto. His studio, an old ship- The broadening of the event to parks, a space for dialogue and reflections for tives for the construction of the possible. of art are mixed with the sea breeze, tropi- yard on the banks of the Almendares streets, and neighborhoods makes it pos- both insiders and outsiders, a bridge be- cal heat, and urban soundscape. River, will be a meeting point for creators sible to infuse an aesthetic experience tween artists, critics, and academics from from Mexico, Brazil, Austria, and Spain. into everyday life. It also provides a spe- multiple geographies. Undoubtedly, it is cial opportunity to enjoy the unique vis- On this occasion the theoretical program tas of 1950s-era cars and the baroque, art —one of the most important aspects of deco, and eclectic buildings that coexist the Biennial— has been organized by the with contemporary art.

20 OnCuba Travel, Apr.-May. 2019 Apr.-May. 2019 oncubamagazine.com 21 20 COVER BEHIND THE WALL WITH JUANITO DELGADO

Laura Arañó Arencibia Photos: Izuky Pérez

When construction for the Malecón visual arts expert with a long career began at the beginning of the 20th as an art promoter and producer and century, Havanans didn’t suspect that it whom everyone knows as ‘Juanito,’ chose would become one of the most important this site in 2012 to carry out his project, historical and cultural sites on the island. A Detrás del Muro (Behind the Wall). This little over eight kilometers of contrasting invitation to reflect on the sea through blues have witnessed declarations of creative freedom and experimentation love, unexpected departures, changes, is now in its third edition in this 13th and new beginnings. Juan Delgado, a Havana Biennial. BEHIND THE WALL, AN IDEA OR A DREAM? THIRD ITERATION My home faces the ocean, which had al- The novelty of this third iteration has a bit more work. It has been about how I ways been a dream of mine. I grew up in a been the procedural work of the pieces. want to make good art accessible to ev- very humble neighborhood, Arroyo Nara- For example, Susana Pilar Delahante eryone: I want people who don’t know LIFE IS A "YES." THANKFULLY njo, which is also where Carlos Enríquez1 has been presenting her workshop, Lo about art to learn that good art can be is from. Maybe I picked up some of the llevamos rizo (We wear our hair curly) accessible to all of us, even if only for a energy he left behind, I’ve always been a for a month. On March 26th, Humberto month. In life, one always aspires to be I HAVE AN AMAZING TEAM very restless person. On the other hand, Vélez will arrive and start working on better, and that is exactly what I have I love public art, sculpture—I’m a fan of the performance he is preparing; Rober- proposed for each of the projects in De- 2 OF YOUNG PEOPLE I SHARE Brancusi . I’ve lived here since 2000, and tico Fabelo is already working with the trás del Muro. For me there is no “no,” I the sea would ask me things and it would actors. Many artists will be working always think of the “yes.” also respond, and one day I sat before the sooner, starting on April 2nd or 3rd we’ll MY PASSION WITH. AND sea and said, “We are going to do some- be in the streets. Even if we had every- Perhaps in this iteration of Detrás del thing to make this city a bit more rest- thing ready, we would already be on the Muro, my intention is that people would less.” Then my eternal adviser Elvia Rosa streets. reflect more and think more about art, THEY ACCOMPANY ME ON Castro and I began to brainstorm until that interests me a lot... to make art an Detrás del Muro was born, one Mother’s I don’t find many differences from one everyday act. I think that would be the Humberto Vélez (Panama) Performance Day some years ago. At first everyone iteration to the next. Each time requires most important thing. THIS ADVENTURE and musical public art project thought I was crazy. Imagine, public ex- hibitions along the Malecón. Just man- aging to get permits was very difficult. I was lucky to have artists such as María Magdalena Campos, Alexander Arrechea, Duvier del Dago, Roberto Fabelo and oth- ers who supported this madness. After the first year, I spoke with the sea again and it wasn’t satisfied, so we did a sec- ond iteration, with more than 50 artists. This third one will have nearly 70. I hope the sea is happy and gives me strength to continue doing the project, and that one day I’ll attain my dream of reaching the other end of the Malecón and turning Havana into a great gallery of the best of art—not only local art, but universal art.

1 Considered one of the greatest Cuban visual artists of the first half of the 20th century, he was one of the first Cuban artists in what was known as avant-garde art. Among his best- known pieces is El rapto de las mulatas (The Rapture of the Mulatas, 1938) and Combate (Combat, 1941), both part of the permanent collection at the Cuban Museum of Fine Arts. 2 Constantin Brancusi was an important Romanian painter, photographer, and sculptor, considered a pioneer of modern art. His pieces can be found in museums in France, Romania, Australia, and the United States.

24 OnCuba Travel, Apr.-May. 2019 Apr.-May. 2019 oncubamagazine.com 25 GUEST ARTISTS Some 40 international artists are invited. example, sent me nine projects. David I have enjoyed working with Cuban artists Magán, a young Spaniard, will also be here. from the diaspora since the firstDetrás del I BELIEVE THAT THE PROVOCATION Muro, and they’ll appear in the third one I encourage the artists who work on De- as well, and they will be in the fourth and trás del Muro to donate their works to fifth.... I am of the opinion that we were all Havana for our future urban museum. THAT I INCITE IN THE ARTISTS WITH born within the letters of A-R-T—maybe For example, this year Xavier Mascaró is one day, I’ll do an exhibition called Cuba es going to donate one of his guardian fig- igual al arte (Cuba means art). ures; Benjamín Ossa (from Chile) will also do so. THE MALECÓN PROJECT OPENS We have been working on this for three or four years, since the last event in 2015. Two young Cuban artists, Elio Jesús and At that time, Peruvian artist Grimanesa Lianet Martínez, will show their gradu- THEIR CAPACITY TO PROJECT Amorós had arrived in Cuba and she was ation theses from the University of the the first person I invited to this one. I also Arts; and this year we will have two proj- went to Mexico to talk with Javier Marín, ects outside of the Malecón, in the neigh- THEMSELVES VIS-À-VIS THE SEA Laurent Grasso, José Dávila. The latter, for borhood of La California.

Almost all the artists will exhibit new pieces—maybe one or two will have pieces that have already been shown, but that are not well-known. I can tell you that the piece by Enrique Martínez Cela- ya is made especially for Havana and this will be his first time to Cuba since leav- ing when he was twelve years old. Fabelo and Rachel Valdés have done new pieces; Adrián Fernández, an artist who is bet- ter known as a photographer, is going to make a great sculpture.

Until very recently I continued to receive artists who wanted to participate and I would love to be able to have them, but it’s not possible.

ARTISTS, PIECES, INSPIRATION... People always ask me how I make the selection, how I work with the artists.... I am a passionate person—as Martí said: “without passion, there is no art.” I am one of those. I have always been interested in human relationships, I believe that the art- ist is a great human being. That prompt to “do what you want while thinking about the sea,” has been the inspiration for each of the artists. Then the work begins.

On the other hand, there is talent. I al- ways have to thank all the artists who have worked with me in each of the it- erations. Without their passion and their love this dream would not be possible. By Mexican artist José Dávila Xavier Mascaros (Spain), "Guardianes," 2019

26 OnCuba Travel, Apr.-May. 2019 Apr.-May. 2019 oncubamagazine.com 27 CHALLENGES... The challenges are huge! It is very dif- ficult, but I think that Havana deserves it, despite the tornado, despite so many THE CHALLENGE IS TO problems. We need a smile, a hug, to cry and laugh and think. The challenge has been to give the best to Havana on its 500th anniversary. I know that Wifredo ALWAYS SHOWCASE Lam, Sandú Darié, Antonio Vidal would be happy. The challenge in art has always been love, wisdom, and talent. I think it will be another challenge to get to Ave- nida del Puerto, to Prado. THE BEST, TO GARNER BEHIND THE WALL AND THE HAVANA BIENNIAL The Havana Biennial opened its doors to us in its 11th iteration and has contin- APPLAUSE, AND ued to do so up to today; I will always be grateful for that. And I want to talk in particular about the curators of the Wi- fredo Lam Center. Few are aware of the great curatorial work that goes into an HOPEFULLY PEOPLE event like the Havana Biennial. People like Margarita Sánchez Prieto, Margarita González, Ibis Hernández, José Manuel Noceda, Nelson Herrera Ysla, and Pepe WILL ENJOY IT! Fernández—they have all my respect and consideration.

BEHIND THE WALL BEYOND THE BIENNIAL Detrás del Muro (Behind the Wall) has become a beautiful word that the whole team came up with together, dedelmu. Like I told you, I’m restless. The team behind Detrás del Muro is interested in working with and supporting artists. We have given talks at the University of the Arts, and we have a lot of involvement with the community.

We hope that once our headquarters at Malecón 307 is complete, this will be an unusual cultural center with great exhibitions. Workshops for children or grandparents will be held, lectures on art will be given.... We want to give and teach about art. We would very much like to seek financing to restore and give visibility to the pieces, sculptures, and public installations that people aren’t aware of in our city: the Amelia Peláez murals, the painted tiles at La Rampa, and Cruz Diez’s work in Havana.

28 OnCuba Travel, Apr.-May. 2019 Apr.-May. 2019 oncubamagazine.com 29 28 LIGHT & SHADOWS

Pedro Pablo Oliva “LEAVING A RECORD OF MY TIME” MY GEN-

Estrella Díaz Photos: Otmaro Rodríguez ERATION

Pedro Pablo Oliva, creator of El gran the full explanation isn’t always apparent, apagón (The Great Blackout, 1994) —a but rather “is hidden like an almond or piece deemed by the artistic press as colorful like mangoes and guavas. I don’t IS LEAVING the “Cuban Guernica”— has said of his know what percentage I owe to my obses- piece: “I am not capable of judging it sion with comics; how much to the patio with total certainty, I only know that I of my childhood home; how much to that gave birth to it.” childish desire to imitate other friends; how much to my mother, who decorated A LEGACY: His iconography, one of infinite tender- the tablecloths of the old dining table, full ness and clean lines, may be reminis- of tenderness. That eagerness to record cent of comic strips, because it is “full of my time with colors, papers, brushes, and worlds and ambushes. Like video games, canvases must have come from some- it surprises by morphing into something where,” says Pedro Pablo. UTOPIA else on each canvas, sometimes it’s a rabbit or a fish; other times clouds or a On the other hand, his work —both uni- Outstanding Cuban artist Pedro Pablo Oliva’s participa- stream,” he says. versal and profoundly Cuban— goes far tion in the 13th Havana Biennial during the months of beyond a color, transparency, or theme: April and May can be described as active, committed, The beginnings of this artist born in 1949 “it is above all a spiritual condition that and relevant. Oliva, recipient of the National Prize for in the western province of Pinar del Río, ties you to a cup of coffee or to the en- Visual Arts in 2006, is part of the selective list of art- where he currently resides, are “a mystery,” chantment of a way of walking, talking, ists involved in the project Detrás del Muro (Behind the perhaps because origins always are, and and laughing. Wall). The art installation that runs along the emblem- atic Malecón seawall is curated by Juan Delgado and delights viewers with several sculptures located in the entrance of the Hotel El Terral. Oliva has also been com- missioned by María Milián to be part of the collective exhibition of contemporary art, Hb, which will include Photo: Pedro Pablo Oliva´s file three spaces and will culminate on the top floor of the Alicia Alonso Grand Theater of Havana. His studio- workshop in Old Havana will be open to those who wish I don’t understand creations that are so far to catch a glimpse of the latest work by this artist who, according to OnCuba, has taken up a battle against removed from the society I live in. Creation is demagoguery and simulation: “I have the right to speak part of society, and the essence of it with my own voice and I lost any fear of repression.” From the series "Fantasmas de la utopia" (Detail), 2018 (112 x 152 cm)

From the series "Fantasmas de la utopia", 2018 (152 x 112 cm)

Another of his obsessions is to communi- real ghost in his work: perhaps that’s why cate, to engage in dialogue with others, even the most serious issues take on a Novia llorando, 2015 (107 x 26 x 82 cm) and to leave a record of a specific mo- shade of tenderness, which I can’t avoid,” ment in the Cuban context in which he he emphasizes. sculpture. I wanted to see my characters to see the sun: I painted what I lived and lives, because, as he emphasizes, paint- sharing a physical space and I just needed therefore, I was unexpectedly astonished.” ing is another way of speaking: “my work Vehement in his drawing and “liberal or to bring them to life.” will be one more testimony to a lived excessively rational” with his use of col- And although he recognizes that he is moment. It will be nothing more than a or, his work is a true feast for the senses Today, he proudly exhibits a consolidated by nature “elusive, and sometimes, a fleeting reference to a time when real- and the soul. However, over the past nine sculptural body of work, expertly fused sharpshooter,” there is in fact a very po- ity was much more crushing than any years he has had to overcome a compli- in bronze that has followed a coher- etic element in all his work that melts or other word. The usefulness of a piece is cated obstacle. In 2010, he was diagnosed ent theme and aesthetic line because intersperses with textures alluding to the infinite or finite. After these years some with Parkinson’s disease which, beyond —without being tracings of his pictorial fantastical worlds he is immersed in. But vestige of life will emanate from it and the limitation it implies, has become work— he does maintain the spirit that his work also speaks of a clearly human someone will say ‘a man lived in a place, a stimulus and a lever for his creation. has animated him in the four decades condition, of feelings and motivations, he expressed his life in his own way, he Starting from that reality, Pedro Pablo that he has dedicated to the visual arts. of desires and hopelessness, but not ap- loved and suffered, he kicked and was Oliva began an intense career as a sculp- proached from a resentful or bitter point kicked, he screamed, dreamed, but he did tor with a background in ceramics: “I de- Convinced that life is a permanent battle, of view but rather with a curious, sar- not stay silent.’” And because remaining veloped that art form before the condi- he assures that “it is a war to attain a castic perspective, in which underlying silent is not his thing, he recognizes that tion that I now face appeared, and I firmly stability that rarely is achieved. Triumphs mockery and jest are so well conceived as the allusion to childhood appears as “a believe that ceramics is a way of making are ephemeral, like insects that never get to be disguised. From the series Sillones de mimbre: "Espantado de todo", 2018 (37 x 24 x 23 cm)

32 OnCuba Travel, Apr.-May. 2019 Apr.-May. 2019 oncubamagazine.com 33 32 MY FAVORITE PLACE IN THE WORLD

OF ALL THE PLACES IN THE WORLD, FERNANDO PÉREZ PREFERS TO VISIT MOVIE THEATERS IN HAVANA, PARTICULARLY THE ONES ON 23RD STREET AND THE PAYRET CINEMA

While delivering letters with his father Fernando lives on the 15th floor of a build- and charcoal with his uncle in the 1950s ing in a small apartment where there in Guanabacoa, Fernando Pérez learned seems to be plenty of space, on Infanta to take pleasure in walking. By walking, he and Manglar streets in the very center says, he comes up with ideas and discov- of the capital of Cuba. In the living room, ers locations for his films. “When you walk there is a bookshelf full of movies in DVD you touch things, you look people in the cases, some awards, a small table with eye, you are present in a place,” says the framed photos and albums, and next to director of Suite Habana, the Cuban film it another table full of prizes collecting that portrays people’s daily lives —not dust. It’s not that Fernando keeps them just those of fictional characters— in this dirty on purpose. The physical prizes seaside city. mean nothing, and he knows it. The most important moment of a film is “when it is screened in theaters and you see whether HAVANA, people go to see it,” he says. A CITY OF OLD CINEMAS

Cynthia de la Cantera Toranzo “What about the premieres?” I ask. went up to L Street, to the Yara cinema. films— and where the director says he concentration camp where homosexuals “It’s one of the few whose name change discovered New Wave cinema and Berg- and government opponents were sent— “I’m not very inclined toward premieres. actually stuck. Nobody remembers that it man’s early films; and he ended up at and the restrictions, all that seemed far For me they are the opposite of what used to be called Radio Centro.” the corner of 12th Street, with the aptly- away. But when you read about it today, they are supposed to be. Generally, they named cinema, 23 y 12. you ask yourself, ‘how did I hear about are by invitation, and most guests have Fernando followed 23rd up to 12th Street, that and not realize how terrible it was?’” some relationship with the film, so peo- in El Vedado. He got the idea to go to “It was the 1960s. La Rampa and 23rd ple go with goodwill. That already prede- the ICAIC (Cuban Institute of Cinemato- Street had become the most dynamic “And why do you think that happened? termines an acceptance.” graphic Art and Industry). “It was like part of the city. It was the hub for youth, Why do you think you didn’t realize it?” reaching the mecca and then I asked my- for a very creative and diverse generation. On the day of the premiere of Clandestinos, self, ‘so, what am I doing here?’” I was privileged to have lived through the “Because we were involved in what was his first fiction feature, it rained a lot. Fer- most beautiful time of the revolution, fundamental—building, change.” nando says that it almost always rains on The ICAIC, founded in March 1959, gradu- when I was 15, 16 years old. The dream. his opening days. I told him to take it as ally took over the floors and offices of the That’s why I want to make a film about Fernando always wakes up early. Not be- a blessing. Atlantic building, with an eponymous that moment I lived through. But I don’t cause of his age, he says, but because he cinema on the first floor, today called the want to tell it only from my perspective, likes to (he spent many years working Before 1954, Fernando had only been to Charles Chaplin. from how I experienced it. I want to tell nights at the Noticiero del ICAIC news- two cinemas: the Ensueño and the Carral, it from how others lived it, and some had reel—to this day, each episode is con- in Guanabacoa; they hardly exist today, “The Atlantic was a top-notch cinema. a very bad experience. And at that time, sidered a standalone documentary). He destroyed by time and apathy. He used to It cost one peso to get in. That day I we weren’t able to see it. The UMAP’s — makes coffee, stands at the window, and leave school and go straight to the Carral. had gone out for a walk, and I only had Military Units to Aid Production, a kind of looks out at the city. Then his day begins. He liked it better because it specialized Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez in American cinema. But that year, his fa- ther took him to the Payret. Photo: Alba León

Joaquín Payret, a Catalonian living in Cuba, opened the old theater in 1877, without much luck. He rebuilt it three times, and all three times it was knocked down by hurricanes. Joaquín ended up in financial ruin. In 1951 the theater was demolished and, in its place, the cinema that Fernando would visit three years later was built.

He remembers every detail about that day. It was a family outing with his father, mother, and sister. They took Route 29, which went from Guanabacoa to Regla’s boat launch—a ferry that still crosses the Bay of Havana with the same route today. They crossed the bay, arrived at Avenida del Puerto and then Paseo del Prado. Accus- tomed to small-town routines, it was the first time Fernando visited a cinema in the big city.

“We saw a movie called The Robe. It was shown on Easter because it depicted the biblical story of Jesus Christ. But it had Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez one main characteristic: it was one of the ater is not the big screen, but the collec- the theater where my parents fell in love. enough change for the bus, and to buy first films, if not the first, to be made in tive sharing of the same emotions of a Nowadays it’s a closed, empty theater that a soda or a coffee. It was an exploratory CinemaScope. And of course, the Payret film in a dark and comfortable space.” maintains its almost lifeless structure. trip,” says Fernando. “But the next week I had this widescreen format.” went back and I saw a movie.” Six decades later, the Payret is a charming Fernando, who liked to walk, retraced the “I remember the velvety wine-red seats, old cinema in front of the Capitol build- same route alone years later, after the “I decided to go to all of the cinemas in the air conditioning.... It was like enter- ing, next to the Parque Central, on the revolution. He crossed the bay, walked Havana.” Today, the cinemas that Fernan- ing a world of imagination and comfort, corner of Havana’s Grand Theater, which all along the Avenida del Puerto, but this do visited are known as the Circuito 23. which is, I think, what lends to the film was first called the Tacón, then García time he deviated and continued along He started on O Street, at the La Rampa experience. What defines the movie the- Lorca, and now Alicia Alonso. The Payret is the Malecón, reaching 23rd Street. He cinema —which specialized in European

36 OnCuba Travel, Apr.-May. 2019 Apr.-May. 2019 oncubamagazine.com 37 36 CUBA WITH CHRISTOPHER BAKER “Today there are fewer than two hun- dred Harleys left in Cuba,” says Luis En- rique. “The oldest is from 1932,” he adds, Cuba’s harlistas keep their antique straddling a blood-red 1946 Knucklehead Harley-Davidsons running with in his basement workshop adjoining his resourcefulness, ingenuity, and Vedado home. The fender sports a sticker of Che Guevara. I count eight other Har- indefatigable good humor ley-Davidsons and a disassembled 1947 ¡VIVAN Indian Chief in his collection of thirteen pre-revolutionary bikes.

Luis looks like a textbook harlista in his blood-red bandanna, black T-shirt embla- LOS HARLISTAS! zoned with a Harley-Davidson logo, and chain-festooned jeans.

He stomps down on the kickstart and the retro iron explodes into life… VROOM!

His antique Harley would be a museum piece elsewhere in the world. In Cuba, where fewer than ten percent of fami- lies own a car, it’s a daily ride. Luis has ridden several of his 70- and 80-year-old Harley-Davidsons all over Cuba. Yet keep- ing them running is a challenge given the U.S. embargo and perpetual shortage. Luis and fellow harlistas have to scav- enge, swap, or monkey-wrench parts.

“El cubano inventa” he says, laughing as he explains how Cuba’s harlistas go to absurd lengths to keep their aged hogs Christopher Baker running. “What we can’t fix or canni- Photos by author balize from cars we make ourselves. We tailor virtually any part you can think of, right here,” he says, showing me his homemade lathe.

There’s a sepia panoramic photograph, of the Classic Motorcycle Club of Cuba. Antonio ‘Tony’ Miniet, who joined the “¡Hecho en Cuba, chico!” he says as he circa 1948, that adorns the walls of sever- “I think perhaps there were more than police force in January 1959, immediate- displays handlebars and exhausts made al Havana restaurants, showing members five thousand Harleys,” suggests Luis ly after the revolution. “We had to find from domestic piping. A drive chain once of the Club de Motociclistas de Cuba by Enrique González, an electrical engineer ways to service the bikes. Like all the Cu- powered a conveyor-belt in Cuba’s Coca- the beach in Surgidero de Batabanó, with by training and an über moto mechanic. ban harlistas, we learned to be creative,” Cola bottling plant. Russian GAZ jeep their bikes neatly lined up in a row. Most he adds, speaking of Cuba’s proudly pistons and valves from a Russian Ka- are Harley-Davidsons purchased from the Then Castro and friends made a revolu- fanatical owners of antique Harleys. mas truck substitute for Harley originals. Casa Bretos dealership, Cuba’s sole pre- tion and spun off into Soviet orbit, invok- “The guy I bought the Knucklehead from revolutionary Harley-Davidson franchise. ing the U.S. trade embargo (Cubans call A former roulette dealer at mobster Mey- even made the seat cover from the skin it el bloqueo, the blockade), that cast a er Lansky’s Riviera Hotel, Tony founded of a pit bull,” Luis adds, chuckling. And, he In those halcyon days, many Cubans also time-warp spell over Cuba in terms of the police daredevil acrobatic team that explains, in the grim years known as the rode Indians and British Triumphs, but classic Americana turning the island’s vi- rode Harleys until the difficulty of main- ‘Special Period’ after the collapse of the the Harley-Davidson was the defining brant Harley culture on its head. tenance, plus growing anti-yanqui sen- Soviet Union, lack of tires forced Luis to icon of the isle’s moto culture. Thousands timent, forced their demise. “The anti- replace one of his Harley’s spoked 16-inch thundered down the highways of Cuba. No more Harleys—nor American cars— American feeling was especially true of wheels with a solid 15-inch VW Beetle Harleys were standard issue for Cuba’s were imported. The Bretos dealership the Harleys—they were the motorcycle wheel. military and police, and for workers of was forced to close. used by Batista’s brutal police,” recalls the (U.S.-owned) electrical and telephone Raúl Corrales. In 1968, the police Harleys It seems ironic that the Harley-David- companies. “Some vendors also sold “We received a shipment of one hun- were replaced with Moto-Guzzis. Many son—the most iconic of American sym- ice cream from Harley Servi-Car three- dred new Harleys in 1960, but after that were sold to individual policemen. bols—has such die-hard fanatics in com- wheelers,” recalls Raúl Corrales, founder not even spare parts,” recalls 79-year-old munist Cuba. In fact, harlistas are just as Luis Enrique González with his 1948 Flathead with Che Guevara sticker

38 OnCuba Travel, Apr.-May. 2019 passionate as their American counter- Alas, in the early 1990s foreigners began Since President Obama’s easing of rela- ed out of a bar and embraced me. Like his parts, but their social bond is many orders buying up Harleys and other rare bikes for tions, Harley-Davidson parts can be or- dad, Ernesto “Jr.” is a motorcycle enthusi- of magnitude stronger. This enigmatic a few hundred pesos (less than $100, back dered online and brought in by visiting ast. When I first met him six years ago, he and prismatic subculture rises to the lev- then) from Cubans clamorous for cash. friends. And the growth in tourism has was riding a jade-colored 1948 Flathead. el of a religion without a name. “An Argentinian shipped out most of the meant more foreign residents in Cuba, Today, after we dine together at a Harley- British bikes and some Indians,” says Luis and more Cubans with disposable in- themed restaurant—Chacón 162—Er- “I don’t have a car. I use my bike for ev- Enrique. “Many were shipped out by the come (much of it money sent by their nesto rides off on a 2015 Harley-Davidson erything! To go to the doctor, to the store, husband of a German diplomat. He used families in Miami). Together these nou- Electra Glide Ultra Classic. or a party. Whatever!” says 39-year-old his wife’s diplomatic immunity to send veaux riches have been buying up Cuba’s bearded musician Luis Gustavo Mas, bikes out of the country,” adds 59-year-old Harleys, which have soared in price and Five years have passed since President proudly, of his matte-black ’46 1200cc Rafael Díaz Díaz, proud owner of silver- popularity. Today, a six-decade-old Har- Obama announced a rapprochement with Flathead. “She’s part of the family, like and-candy-apple-red 1946 Indian Scout. ley-Davidson can command $20,000 or Cuba; eight years since Raúl Castro eased the refrigerator…” “We didn’t know the value of our bikes. more—an astronomical sum in a country up on cuentapropistas (private entrepre- We were desperate back then,” he says, where the average state salary is about neurs); and 24 years since I rode my BMW Family! Family is everything in Cuba. Fired grimacing at memories of the bleak ‘Spe- $27 a month. R100GS around an impoverished Cuba. in the crucible of the ‘Special Period’ of cial Period.’ Suddenly I need a neck restraint to stop the early ’90s, the tight-knit harlista fam- “More harlistas have a capitalist mental- doing double-takes as cuentapropistas ily is so well-recognized that the Harley- In 1996, Cuba’s vintage bikes were classi- ity. Money has started getting in the way burst out of their straight-jackets. Every Davidson remains the most revered mo- fied as National Treasures. Like their clas- of brotherhood and friendship,” bemoans third building in this overcrowded, once- torcycle brand on the island. This despite sic car counterparts, they can no longer Jorge Santos Prats, who in the 1980s paid sclerotic quarter of Habana Vieja is in the the presence of tens of thousands of legally be shipped abroad. Still, Harleys 7,000 pesos (two years’ salary, sufficient throes of a remake as a boutique B&B, hip sober Czech-made Jawas, East German occasionally get bought and spirited out to build a house in Cuba) for a 1947 Flat- restaurant, or—what’s this?—a gourmet MZs, Russian-made 350cc Jupiters and of the country as ‘recycled steel.’ head. heladería selling homemade gelato ice 650cc Urals with sidecars, and ubiquitous creams. But nothing epitomizes the ‘New Suzuki 250s imported by the Cuban state The harlistas’ world is newly challenged Recently, while I was strolling along a Cuba’ emerging before my eyes so much since the 1990s for use by security per- as Cuba increasingly becomes a ‘monied’ cobbled street in colonial-era Habana as Ernesto roaring off on his sleek new sonnel and officials. society. Vieja, Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara’s son bound- Harley tourer. Luis Gustavo Mas and his 1946 Flathead; Photo courtesy Luis Gustavo Mas

During the ‘Special Period,’ many Harleys broke down and couldn’t be fixed. Few Cubans wanted them. They preferred easier-to-fix, light-on-gasoline Soviet Bloc motos. But some die-hard harlistas stuck by their timeworn treasures. Geniuses of invention… Mechanical wizards... THEY FIGURED OUT A WAY TO SAVE THEIR MACHINES FROM EXTINCTION. THE LUCHA (STRUGGLE) FORGED A BATTLE-HARDENED BOND AND INFUSED A SENSE OF CUBANÍA THAT DREW THE COMMUNITY CLOSER TOGETHER AND BREATHED FIRE INTO THE HARLISTA SPIRIT Christopher P Baker and Ernesto Guevara's Harley, Havana

40 OnCuba Travel, Apr.-May. 2019 Apr.-May. 2019 oncubamagazine.com 41 40 SHORTCUTS

CIENFUEGOS, Eric Caraballoso Photos: Otmaro Rodríguez

Considered one of the most beautiful and welcoming cities in Cuba, Cienfuegos is cel- ebrating its bicentennial on April 22, 2019. The only city in Latin America founded by the French under the Spanish crown, it was initially christened Fernandina de Jagua, and soon after changed its name to honor Don José Cienfuegos, the island’s governor at the time of the city’s foundation.

Surrounded by a wide bay in the south- center of Cuba, the growing city is home to one of the largest ports on the island, in a naturally privileged environment hugging the sea, and is a source of pride for its in- habitants, called Cienfuegueros. So are its architecture and its symmetrical urban layout, in particular its well-preserved his- torical center, declared by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.

Although small compared to other Cuban cities, Cienfuegos has a unique charm. The cradle of numerous legends, its beauty has inspired musicians and poets, and earned it the title of the Pearl of the South.

On the city’s bicentennial, OnCuba recom- mends five distinctive sites in the city and its surroundings that should not be missed. MARTÍ PARK PASEO DEL PRADO One cannot visit Cienfuegos without Nearly two kilometers long, the Paseo del stopping by Martí Park. Named since Prado is the main artery in Cienfuegos the beginning of the twentieth century and one of the most important urban in homage to Cuba’s national hero, this corridors in Cuba. Although its origins plaza is the original heart of the city, since date back to the colonial period, it was it was there that the French settlers de- not until the first decades of the twen- signed the layout of the first streets. tieth century that it acquired its current appearance and name, influenced by the Extending the length of two blocks, the eponymous promenade in Havana. park is crowned by the sculpture of José Martí, erected in 1906, the work of Ital- The Cienfuegos Paseo del Prado is an ian Giovanni Nicolini. In addition, there is avenue that runs through the historic an abundance of trees and fountains, an center from north to south, and boasts eclectic-style gazebo, and busts of local a pedestrian promenade with trees and personalities. A colorful, French-inspired benches for walkers and lovers to rest. It triumphal arch and two marble lions is adorned with monuments and sculp- guard the entrances to the park. tures such as that of Benny Moré, the famous son musician who sang about Among the surrounding buildings, mostly his love for Cienfuegos, created by Cuban neoclassical and meticulously preserved, sculptor José Villa Soberón, where visitors there are several of the most notable often stop to take photographs. buildings in the city, such as the Govern- ment Palace, the Provincial Museum (for- Constructions of different styles can mer Casino Español), the Cathedral of the be found on either side, in a succession Immaculate Conception, the Tomás Terry of portals and columns appreciated by Theater—one of the most important passers-by. The House of Lions, the Bish- venues in Cuba—and the Ferrer Palace, opric, the Provincial Library and the Lu- whose rooftop terrace offers beautiful isa Theater are some of the emblematic views of the city. buildings abutting it, as well as beautiful residences and private restaurants. Home to timid pigeons and a meeting point for city dwellers and visitors, Martí Park is a National Monument and marks the beginning of Cienfuegos’ boulevard, the busiest shopping street in the city. José Martí Park

Statue of the great son musician, Benny Moré

44 OnCuba Travel, Apr.-May. 2019 Apr.-May. 2019 oncubamagazine.com 45 MALECÓN-PUNTA GORDA JAGUA CASTLE The Malecón seafront begins just where Faithful sentinel of the sea, the Castle of the Prado ends and is an extension of the Our Lady of the Angels of Jagua, a military same avenue. Although it’s not as long fortification of Renaissance style, was built or as famous as its Havana counterpart, even before the founding of Cienfuegos. It this seawall is a symbol of Cienfuegos rises away from the city, on the west side and an ideal spot to enjoy the breeze and of the bay, just where the narrow entrance the wonderful view of the bay, to practice channel allowed it to counteract the incur- sports, or to share a sunset. sions of pirates and smugglers.

Built in 1930, the Malecón stretches for Commissioned by Spain to French engineer several blocks south to Punta Gorda, an Joseph Tantete, its construction lasted elegant residential area that narrows as twelve years until its completion in 1745. it approaches the sea. Along with private Between its walls the legend of the blue homes, there are many buildings such as lady was born, an apparition that respond- the majestic Cienfuegos Club, the Jagua ed to the call of a mysterious bird and that Hotel—the most important in the city— made a young Spanish ensign go mad. and the Palacio de Valle, an authentic jewel of Cuban architecture whose eclec- With its three levels, its moat and its ticism harmonizes Mudejar, Byzantine, drawbridge, today the castle is a museum Venetian and Gothic elements. displaying pieces of artillery, antique furni- ture, religious objects and other elements With views of the sailboats that depart of local history. From the terrace you can from the Marlin Marina, and the seagulls see the nearby Pasacaballo Hotel across and gannets that fish in the Cienfuegos the bay, and there’s a picturesque fishing waters, the Malecón and Punta Gorda are village nearby from which boats leave the musts for those who travel to the Pearl bay to get to the city. of the South. And although they are not part of the historical center, they are con- sidered within the UNESCO-declared pro- tected zone given their patrimonial value. The Cienfuegos seawall, one of the most popular spotsin the city BOTANICAL GARDEN Castillo de Jagua Visiting the gardens requires leaving the city, but it’s worth it. Located 15 kilome- ters from Cienfuegos, it is the oldest gar- den of its type in Cuba. It was founded in 1901 by American entrepreneur Edwin Atkins with the support of Harvard Uni- versity, which appointed him in charge of the gardens for six decades, promoting tropical plant research.

Currently, the Cienfuegos Botanical Gar- den offers the opportunity to interact di- rectly with nature. More than 1,400 plant species from all over the world are within reach of visitors, mostly forests and trails that extend over 97 hectares.

Orchids, cacti and succulents, bamboos and jagüeyes are among its most impor- tant treasures, although palm trees are undoubtedly its greatest relics. From the very Cuban royal palm trees to rare speci- mens, they make up one of the most com- plete collections in the world, astonishing visitors. They augment the greenery of a site that complements the architectural beauty of Cienfuegos in its bicentennial. Botanical Garden Ferry from Castillo de Jagua to Pasacaballo

46 OnCuba Travel, Apr.-May. 2019 Apr.-May. 2019 oncubamagazine.com 47 46 ENTREPRENEUS THE CUBA THAT TOURISTS DON’T ALWAYS SEE

Cecilia Crespo

It all started with the idea of ​​sharing an intimate and authentic Havana that those who trust in this unique travel agency can truly experience, not just ob- serve.

Sheylan, Nelson, and Alex are three friends who, after extensive experience as tour guides, decided to create their own travel agency. The dynamic they project is very different from the business of showing the worn idyllic postcard that Photo: Dianelis Remon is usually handed out to tourists. If you are the type of traveler who prefers . the mundane, you may not want to book How does a private travel agency work in with this agency. If you want to live the Cuba? intense experience of feeling everyday Although we have different routes, we Cuba up close and tangible, you can trust try to customize them according to the these young entrepreneurs who have client’s needs. We want to share our feel- decided to change the rules of the game ings—not anecdotes about the country and embark on a spectacular adventure. but rather about our personal experi- The entrails of the visceral Cuba, the one ences, traditions, stories told to us by our that almost never appears in photos, can parents and grandparents. We have legal be found in the hands of Quaquaversal backing in Mexico, which, unlike other Tours. agencies, allows us to work here legiti- mately and lends us more seriousness. The name may sound odd. Most agen- There is great variety in our catalog, we cies have more commercial names. The do not believe in the impossible. We are Latin-origin word means to move simul- constantly immersed in coordination and taneously in several directions. It is not taking care of details like pieces of a puz- easy to learn but, once assimilated, it is zle. We want the people who trust in us to never forgotten. Experience shows that have intimate experiences and not per- their promoters escape from the beaten ceive the shortcomings that can some- path, avoiding the obvious and leading times arise. For example, our food tour is clients towards a side less seen. You can at my grandparents’ house with a large even consult a priest of the Afro-Cuban patio for playing dominoes and sharing religion (babalawo) during your visit. that space. It may not be a luxurious or expensive experience, but it is warm: it Why did you decide to create a travel is my reality. It’s simple and charming at agency, which implies such a complex the same time, and it’s something that a business model? European, for example, can only experi- We found a hole in the market and decid- ence here. You can also choose a more so- ed to fill it. We realized that there are not phisticated program, everything depends many travel agencies aimed at showing on the needs and interests of the tourist. the real Cuba. There are many agencies, We try to make it as colloquial, authentic but few expose you to the island the way and pleasant as possible. we do. Not everyone understands or is in- terested in sharing essence, identity, roots What distinguishes you? Photos: Otmaro Rodríguez We emphasize customer service. Our guides are able to break through any or- ganizational or logistical barrier that may arise at any time.

What strategies do you use to achieve this? We propose adventures, experiences, diverse and unconventional situations such as going to the farmer’s market or the butcher shop, like a local Cuban, choosing the bananas and the piece of meat that you will eat later. Now we are planning a social tour in pedicabs that is much cheaper than the well-known clas- sic cars and is for all ages. If you want ci- gars, we take you to the state store: our premise is legality. We have passionate guides who live their history vehement- ly, because our history is too exciting to not live it that way. Toques de santo (an Afro-Cuban religious ceremony), the Book Fair, interviews with personalities from various fields—these are some of the experiences that many of our clients have enjoyed.

50 OnCuba Travel, Apr.-May. 2019 Apr.-May. 2019 oncubamagazine.com 51 What sort of client chooses you? We have different sorts of customers from all nationalities, ages, and classes. Many ask us what we think of tourists be- cause in their countries there are people who do not like foreigners. Here it is the opposite and we pleasantly explain that tourists are the main drivers of the coun- try’s economy. Spaniards, for example, love the work we do; there’s no off season with them, we have them at all times of the year, we don’t know if it’s because we share a language, or if they look for inti- mate experiences like the ones we offer.

Describe a tour with you? We start in the morning and keep cus- tomers busy for much of the day. We have a wide array of experiences, but we can come up with new ones such as div- ing and mountaineering, just to mention a couple examples and, of course, other more classic ones. Cuba is different and our strength lies in showcasing our di- versity without make-up or sweetening, beyond the obvious. It’s the Cuba that tourists don’t always see.

Email: [email protected] Web: www.quaquaversaltours.com Insta: @quaquaversal_tours Facebook: @Quaquaversaltours TripAdv Quaquaversal Tours WhatsApp: 5 3583869

Photo: Otmaro Rodríguez

52 OnCuba Travel, Apr.-May. 2019 52 MUSIC

Idania Valdés, Beyond Buena Vista Social Club

Idania Valdés covers Cuban music with a magic infused with tradition, training, and showman- ship. She was born on Valentine’s Day in Los Si- tios, the daughter of Julia Casuso and Amadito Valdés, one of the island’s great percussionists. As a child, she visited music studios, Tropicana rehearsals, and Radio Progreso recordings. That was her training and what catalyzed her to pur- sue a career in music.

With a percussionist father and a clarinetist and saxophonist grandfather, she chose the piano because it is the most complete instrument, then she studied choral direction. But she al- ways wanted to be a singer. Idania has the abil- ity to come onstage and transport us to another dimension, to a time long ago. Current rhythms dictate, almost impose, other sounds, which is why she holds on to yesteryear, reconfiguring it with her timbre, confidence, and discipline.

At just over 30 years old, she is the youngest voice in the Buena Vista Social Club, and has a musical trajectory that has garnered applause from all over the world. Today she could be a Alejandro R. Chang great diva, but she doesn’t want to and she Photos: Izuky Pérez doesn’t need to.

Apr.-May. 2019 oncubamagazine.com 55 How did you decide to become a soloist? I always had doubts. First, I made two demos, one with Manolito Simonet and then with Robertico Carcassés, but let’s say that the breakthrough was when Fer- nando Trueba chose me as the voice of Rita Montaner for his movie, Chico y Rita. There I realized that I had the possibility to work independently, without abandoning what I do with Buena Vista.

After working with Fernando Trueba, you recorded your first CD, Menos mal. What has become of that? That is a very eclectic album that won the Cubadisco prize in the song category in 2014. It has brought me much joy, even though it has not yet been released, and that prize supposedly prioritized releas- ing the album. But well, it’s 2019 already. I shared the recording with a wonderful group of young musicians and with mae- stros such as Barbarito Torres, Amadito Valdés, and Los Van Van, among others, with whom I had the opportunity to re- cord “Qué decir del dolor,” a new song that Juan Formell gave me.

Why would such a young singer choose a repertoire like that for her first CD? I chose the repertoire that makes me vi- brate. I have been able to experience dif- ferent genres, but

What I really enjoy is Cuban song. Now, there are many styles and Cine Yara Concert, March 2017. Photo: Gaby Bianchini qualities that are How was is to grow up being the daugh- When did you start working professionally? my life. Aside from the conservatories, it perhaps more ter of Amadito Valdés? I was part of several women’s groups has been my life-school for 16 years. I have I am proud to be my father’s daughter. I and I had my first international tour with shared the stage with legends of Cuban popular, but it is think he has done a very important thing one of them when I was 17 years old, so music such as Ibrahim Ferrer, who believed for me, which is to not impose himself I started singing when I was still a stu- in me more than anyone; also Eliades not worth selling to further my success. Of course, I am dent. When I returned from this exten- Ochoa and Omara Portuondo, from whom part of the Buena Vista Social Club be- sive tour of the Canary Islands, my father I have learned a lot just by looking at her, out musically. You cause thanks to him they knew who I invited me to several concerts at the listening to her, being by her side without was, but not because he said that I had Motion Blue Club in Yokohama, Japan, speaking, nourishing myself with all the have to focus on to be there. It was never like that. My to present his album Bajando Gervasio. great mastery and knowledge that she what you want. dad taught me that you have to earn Upon returning from these shows, I was has of the stage. Thanks to them I have ad- things on your own merit. There was a called upon to be part of Buena Vista So- vanced in my career, because something That is what time when perhaps I did not assimilate cial Club. That’s how it all started. that distinguishes my style is that I am a that, but today I understand it and that young singer, but at the core of my songs I want to fight for is what has given me the chance to ad- What has Buena Vista meant for you? is the root of Cuban music. And I learned vance and grow on my own. It’s the most important training I’ve had in that from them. Cine Yara Concert, March 2017. Photo: Gaby Bianchini

56 OnCuba Travel, Apr.-May. 2019 Apr.-May. 2019 oncubamagazine.com 57 I know you have a hobby and that is the Did you think about the risk of recording first time that you’ll share it with your this repertoire in terms of popularity? followers... Yes, of course. I know that for as long as Yes. My biggest hobby is interior decora- that is my style, I will never become an tion, focused on the 1950s, especially Mid extremely popular singer. Century Atomic Style. I’m a fan of that style. Whenever I have free time I research, I look Are you interested in being one? at sales pages, I visit antiques shops and buy I like to feel good, to respect my wishes, things. My house is completely designed in to not do things that I’m not comfortable that style. I’d like to see if I can study interior with afterwards. The test was two years decoration, and do it seriously because I like ago when I wanted to know whether or it a lot. In music my style is Cuban song, and not I could be successful with this style. this is my style in terms of decoration. And the sign that I could was the amount of people who attended my first concert at You are a very elegant woman. Is it part the Yara cinema, of which a CD/DVD called of being an artist? Idania Valdés, más allá del Club Social (Ida- It’s the way I am. I pay a lot of attention nia Valdés, Beyond the Social Club) will to my image, and maybe there are people soon be released. I was impressed because who find that a little frivolous, but not at if there was any fear in me that I shouldn’t all, it’s my personality. I care a lot about do that kind of music, that concert erased the clothes I wear on stage because it’s a all doubt. place where you have to respect the audi- ence. You can be sensual, even sexy, but What is it like to have a career with that carefully. There are clothes that are not for style in the current Cuban music scene? the stage, just like there are stage clothes Right now, it is very difficult because -ur that are not for the street and, sometimes, ban music is having a huge boom, but I some artists lose sight of this. have been quite lucky navigating this. I am a very visible person because I strive for Let’s talk about Leo Garrido... that. Now that the world moves on social What can I say about Leo? We have been networks I am always trying to post mate- together for nearly ten years, and besides rial, get followers, go on the radio and TV. my parents, he has been the most sup- I work hard so that, although the style of portive person in my life. Besides love, music I make is not so popular, my image the most important thing is our complic- as an artist is present. ity and that we make a great team. We are two people pulling for the same side. Some people believe that you could be Everything that we have today, both per- Omara Portuondo’s successor... sonally and professionally, we’ve worked I hope not, because I believe that no one is for together. replaceable, let alone a star of her caliber. Also, I think I have the potential and the Will there be children? skills to be my own person. I want people Yes, we already need them. I believe that to recognize me for my own efforts, for my couples should have children when they work and not for wanting to match or re- want to, and we want them. place someone else. I’m not interested in that at all. Unquestionably, we’re the only What qualities should a singer have? What does it mean to make music in Cuba? two women who have officially worked It means everything. I have had the oppor- with Buena Vista, so people see me a bit She should be her own self, have her own style. tunity to travel a lot, to see much of the as the younger one who will replace the world, I’ve even had job offers in different older one. And no, it’s not like that at all, The most difficult thing when choosing to be a countries. But they haven’t interested me and it never will be like that because I’m singer is to strive so that those listening to your because my roots and my family are here. not going to allow it, I’m not interested in I don’t want to say that I’m never going that. Omara is Omara, and Idania is Idania. voice know that it is you. So, for us musicians to leave because I don’t believe much in who are surviving in this medium, what we need those false promises, but so far I haven’t made the decision to leave. There’s a say- to have is identity. Something in your singing ing that “anyone can drink cold beer.” that makes you unique Here, you have to drink it warm.

58 OnCuba Travel, Apr.-May. 2019 Apr.-May. 2019 oncubamagazine.com 59 58 SPORTS “HOT TALK” AT HAVANA’S PARQUE CENTRAL

Howard Axelrod Photos by author

In Parque Central along Paseo de Marti in La Habana a special event takes place every day. It has no start or finish time and just happens on its own, day after day. I became aware of this gathering on my previous visit to Havana in 2018. I was enjoying coffee across the street at Hotel Inglaterra when I was jolted to atten- tion by loud, agitated voices and waving arms and foot stomps. I glanced across to Parque Central and saw a group of about 25 men who appeared to be deeply involved in a heated argument. Voices were raised, arms gesticulated wildly, and fingers were pointed menacingly close to chests and faces in an emphatic manner. I was certain that a fight was about to break out. My Cuban friend, sensing my discomfort, explained that the men were simply discussing baseball. I certainly love to discuss baseball reader, but my “dis- cussions” bear no resemblance to what I was witnessing, which was the most boisterous argument that can be imag- ined. Although no one insulted or physi- cally touched another person, tempers flared, body temperatures, pulse rates, and blood pressures rose, and emotions were full-tilt. My friend introduced me to the group, offering me the opportunity to interact. My Spanish is good enough to converse, but my knowledge of baseball was just barely enough to keep me in the “Hot Corner.” Everyone was pleasant to me and both sides had enough questions to keep the conversation going. But I was clearly out of my league knowledge- wise. Within seconds of my departure the chaos erupted and was once again in full swing. The whole incident piqued my curiosity and I decided to learn more about baseball and become more deeply involved in what I had just witnessed on my next trip to Havana in 2019. THERE ARE MANY RELIGIONS PRACTICED IN CUBA, BUT THE UNIVERSAL RELIGION IS UNQUESTIONABLY BASEBALL. CUBA AND BASEBALL HAVE AN INSEPARABLE HISTORY To understand baseball in Cuba, some sport of choice for young kids. Perhaps history is needed. The game was first the beauty and popularity of the game introduced to the island by students lies in its simplicity. All that is needed is a returning home from the United States few pieces of cardboard that can be used in the 1860s, and it became an instant hit as bases, a stick or broom handle for a bat, (no pun intended). It has been a passion and anything that can resemble a ball. of Cubans young and old ever since. In the On numerous occasions on the streets of Pueblo Nuevo neighborhood of Matanzas Centro Habana I have witnessed a plastic 70 miles east of Havana, you will find bottlecap serving this function. Estadio Latinoamericano, home of Havana's Industriales baseball team Palmar del Junco, the oldest continually operating baseball stadium in the Havana is the epicenter of Cuba’s base- world, and the birthplace of organized ball culture. Their beloved team the In- baseball in Cuba. It is here in 1874 that dustriales are the New York Yankees of the first official baseball game in Cuba Cuban baseball, and the Estadio Latino- was reported by the press. This stadium americano (Latin American Stadium) is has been in continuous operation for the Yankee Stadium of Cuba. A Cuban 144 years! Starting in the 1960s, Cuban citizen can attend a Major League game baseball players began defecting to the anywhere on the island for 1 Cuban peso. U.S. in search of greater opportunities. Five cents! Castro believed that sports More than 200 Cubans have played in should be “the right of the people, not the US Major Leagues including many the right of the wealthy,” so baseball tick- superstars such as José Canseco, Luis ets are affordable to every Cuban, not just Tiant, Rafael Palmeiro, Bert Campaneris the “haves”. I had the privilege of attend- and Tony Pérez, to name just a few. In ing a game at the Estadio Latinoamerica- fact, the US is the only country with no in 2018 and I have never experienced more players than Cuba in the National anything quite like it. Unlike in the US Baseball Hall of Fame in Cooperstown, NY. when the crowd cheers after a play, in This speaks volumes about the baseball Cuba the crowd begins cheering wildly talent that this island nation of only before the game even begins, and the ca- 11.5 million inhabitants has brought to cophony of voices, trumpets and drums our shores. As I write this article around runs nonstop until it ends. A hit or a play 40 Cuban players are in spring training at a base sends the fans into hysteria, and preparing for the upcoming 2019 Major when a run scores, the earth shakes from League Baseball season. Cubans are the cheering. Cuban fans enjoy the game incredibly proud that so many of their with a passion that is not rivaled even in players are good enough to not only the Major League baseball games in the participate, but to excel in the US and on United States. the world stage.

One of the undeniable successes of Fi- del Castro’s tenure is sports. Along these lines, baseball is king. It is discussed in the home, in restaurants, at school, and on street corners. It is the overwhelming

62 OnCuba Travel, Apr.-May. 2019 Apr.-May. 2019 oncubamagazine.com 63 What I was witnessing at Parque Central is locally known as La Esquina Caliente – the “Hot Corner.” This is ground zero in Havana for anything and everything WHAT APPEARS TO BE A RIOT to do with baseball. Debates and opin- ions about players, teams and individual plays are stated emphatically and very emotionally, and there is no lack of indi- IN THE MAKING IS NO MORE vidual flair and showmanship. Along with baseball aficionados, many former Cuban Major League players can be found here. Baseball is in their DNA, and the next THAN THE DAILY SHOW AT best thing to playing the game is talking about it. In 2019 I was a return participant at this LA ESQUINA CALIENTE daily event. Arriving in my Boston Red Sox World Series Champions hat, I was imme- diately accepted by the group. After all, many of Cuba’s greatest players includ- ing the beloved Cuban born superstar pitcher “El Tiante” have played for the Red Sox. I had done my homework before ar- riving and knew a great deal more about Cuban and US ball than during my debut in 2018. In addition, I came bearing gifts. After scouring the US, I found a baseball card dealer that hand selected 50 baseball cards of Cuban stars currently active on US Major League rosters. As I started gifting these I instantly had many new friends. Requests were coming rapid fire – “Abreu? Cespedes? Morales? Puig? Escobar?” Yes, I had them all and many more. Everybody loved them! It didn’t take long before de- bates and arguments about each player and team broke out and the show began anew. I was now deeply involved in the action expressing my opinions and point of view, albeit less enthusiastically than my new friends. One young man couldn’t take his eyes off my Boston Red Sox hat. The hat stayed in Cuba.

As the afternoon wanes the group be- gins to dissipate. Everything ends with pats on the back, handshakes, smiles, and hugs. These men are good friends and clearly have a deep respect and love for one another. An older Hot Corner participant thanked me for being a part of their daily ritual and gave me a smile and warm Cuban hug. Perhaps I had been more emotionally involved in today’s Hot Corner than I realized, as tears were in my eyes. This afternoon was a home run for me in Havana. I popped a blood pressure med as I left, just to sure the whole event hadn’t been too much for me. Howard Axelrod (center), at the “Hot Corner”

64 OnCuba Travel, Apr.-May. 2019 Apr.-May. 2019 oncubamagazine.com 65 64 GASTRONOMIC REVIEW Definitely Not Just a Café

In the Callejón del Chorro, very close to the in which the arts and cuisine originate offerings, not too ostentatious and yet preparation: it has a clean combination of Havana Cathedral, the visual arts serve as from the same concept: creation. Many very seductive. It includes an intelligent flavors that linger on the palate. inspiration for the culinary arts. Recipes customers enjoy the complicity of selection of cocktails, wines, spirits are appropriations of classic pieces by experiences that bring them back to and other beverages, as well as tapas, Among the fresh salads, the one with fresh artists such as Marcel Duchamp, Jackson familiar references from the history of appetizers and desserts. seasonal vegetables exhibits colorful cuts Pollock, Yves Klein, Christo Vladimirov universal art. The spaces, both inside and diverse textures, like lettuce and chard, Javacheff, Marcel Broodthaers, and and at the outdoor tables, are filled The restaurant offers breakfast in the cabbage, carrot and tomato slices, seasoned Wifredo Lam, providing a distinctive with music—Cuban and international mornings, with coffee, chocolate, juices, with white-onion-and-sesame vinaigrette. and thematic focus for the very unique standards set to a jazz rhythm. and infusions. I recommend the fresh On this occasion, the dish was served restaurant called Esto no es un café (This vegetable juice: a mixture of ripe tomato, without the cream cheese, an ingredient is not a café). The menu is intriguing from the moment carrot, cucumber, basil, celery, and ice. No that appears on the menu; I only learned you pick it up, as much for the recyclable one ingredient overwhelms, not even the that they didn’t have it when I received Alicia García Small, with a bar and an open kitchen, it material with which it is made as for celery that due to its strong flavor and my dish, and this information should have Photos: Otmaro Rodríguez was conceived of as a curatorial project its descriptions and the exquisite and aroma is difficult to temper in this type of been given as soon as the order was placed. The originality and coherence of the main dishes is indisputable: La fuente de Duchamp (Duchamp’s Fountain), served in an unexpected urinal like the piece its name refers to, is a roasted pork loin, with tarragon dressing, mustard and raisins, and a garnish of cold, blanched and pressed vegetables. The Pollock Chicken is roasted, with slight mint and chocolate flavors, bathed with parsley and soy sauces that are drizzled on the plate like the artist’s paintings. Christo’s Fish, inspired by the artist’s giant wrappings, is a fish fillet cooked in foil, andLa cacerola de Broodthaers is a lobster, shrimp, and mussels casserole, alluding to the well- known piece.

The Pollock Chicken

Duchamp’s Fountain Broodthaers Casserole

68 OnCuba Travel, Apr.-May. 2019 Apr.-May. 2019 oncubamagazine.com 69 I linger on the dishes I taste on this for those of us who live on this island and occasion: Azul Klein (Klein Blue) and El wish to try something different. Tercer Mundo (The Third World). The first is served on blue dishware, an analogy to Mayrelis Peraza, the owner of Esto no es un the Klein monochromes centered on an café, is an arts expert who, in 2011, decided intense blue color. It is a boneless lamb to start this business as a cultural project. loin stew, very soft in texture, cut into According to her, “Having a restaurant cubes and marinated with red wine and in Cuba is the most surreal thing that a Cuban sauce with fewer spices than someone can do.” So, she decided to the traditional recipe and with subtle paraphrase the title of a famous piece by additions of cinnamon, cloves, and honey, René Magritte, the father of surrealism, that surprise the palate, especially when The Treachery of Images, which served as fused in the mouth with its garnishes of inspiration for the name of her business. blue cheese crumbles and mashed sweet potatoes sprinkled with cinnamon. At first Those who visit this place have an we experience the strong flavor of the unforgettable experience as interactive cheese, and then the lamb and the purée consumers in contact, consciously or attenuate that impression, provoking not, with culinary appropriations and new sensations in the perception of the other works of universal and national art. flavors. The second dish is a tribute to To close, I suggest not overlooking the the piece by Wifredo Lam. In tune with receptacle for the check: nothing less than the concept that the artist uses in this a reproduction of one of Andy Warhol’s painting, the ropa vieja —stewed beef famous Campbell Soup cans. For my part, I with a stylized local flavor of lightly fried didn’t miss the opportunity to fill it. olives, peppers, and onion slices— seeks to make an association between the concept of ​cubanía (Cubanness) and the humblest people. Served in a deep white dish and garnished with two large pieces of boiled cassava with a garlic and oil sauce on both sides of the dish, it offers a stimulating chromatic contrast and luminosity between the dark of the meat EVALUATION: and the light tubers. The cleverness of this EXCELLENT presentation recalls the miscegenation of Dining room: 9.5 the regions of the so-called Third World. Kitchen: 10 For dessert, we ordered the tropical fruit Bar: 9.25 crêpe (pineapple, guava, papaya, and General: 9.55 banana), with a silky pancake and a light sweetness in the fruit sauce, the perfect combination to end on. informed me of which one was made with chicken, or with pork or fish, but he Since its opening five years ago, artistic never told me what is involved in their taste is still the restaurant’s signature, conception and elaboration, which, in my according to the criteria of appropriation opinion, was a big mistake. and creation of founding chef Jenrrys Pérez Marrero, today carried out by chef The restaurant Esto no es un café boasts Alexis Albertus and his partner Nelson. a multipurpose space on the upper floor that functions as a gallery with What is less excellent is the service, temporary exhibitions by contemporary because it is not on par with the food. Cuban artists. In April it will be reopened Care must be taken with timing and as a VIP lounge, wine cellar, and for presentation while serving foreigners and pairings of spirits and habanos, post- nationals alike and, above all, “not killing meal options that are very fashionable in the customer’s illusions” when asking for today’s gastronomic scene. details about the menu options. In my case, the waiter opened the menu and, Places like this, connected to international without “taking me through the history references, with a masterly defined and of art,” went directly to describing the consummately thematic profile, are ingredients of the recipes; that is, he benchmarks both for visitors to Cuba and

70 OnCuba Travel, Apr.-May. 2019 Apr.-May. 2019 oncubamagazine.com 71 Alejandro R. Chang Illustration: Guillo Moreno

MAY INTERNATIONAL TH NEW FILMMAKERS SHOW 26 ROMERÍAS DE MAYO April 2 to 7, Havana MONEDA DURA AND May 2-8, Holguín Under the title Del corte a la acción (From Cut to Action), this year KARAMBA LIVE IN CONCERT Romerías de Mayo is a festival that combines the International New Filmmakers Show is promoting independent tradition and modernity, making the city of April 12, Flamingo Theater, Miami Holguin the capital of Youth Art. Each annual and alternative film and video producers. It includes film screenings The Moneda Dura and Karamba concert in by young directors, and contemporary Cuban and international iteration presents a sample of the most represent- Miami promises to be a special moment, full of ative of national and international culture, as well cinema, meetings, seminars, debates, workshops led by important energy and good vibes. Tickets at www.mone- directors, and screenwriting and poster contests. as the best projects from the Hermanos Saíz dadura.eventbrite.com Association from each province. CITY IN MOTION April 3 to 7, Old Havana 13TH HAVANA BIENNIAL CUBADISCO This unique event in Old Havana, City in Motion, aims to April 12 to May 12 involve the spectator in a combination of artistic manifesta- INTERNATIONAL MUSIC FAIR Encouraging interaction between artists, curators, experts, institu- tions inspired by the history, architecture and design of one of tions, and the public is the objective of this wonderful cultural May 18 to 25, Havana the most beautiful districts in the world. It is organized every Dedicated to the 500th Anniversary of Havana, it celebration whose title in this iteration proposes La construcción de year since 1996 by the company Danza Teatro Retazos and the constitutes a meeting point for musicians, lo posible (The Construction of the Possible). Recognized as one of Office of the City Historian, and exhibitions, concerts, video art, producers, and music lovers. Its objective is the the most important visual arts events in the world, the Havana and performances. It also promotes professional development exchange, cooperation, and development of the Biennial gives visibility to contemporary artistic thought and its through courses, workshops, talks, and video screenings. Cuban music industry. Each year the Cubadisco evolution in Cuba, the Global South, and other regions of the world. prize is awarded, and exhibitions, concerts and a This year, more than 300 guests from 52 countries will participate. APRIL wide variety of activities are organized. TH 16 PIÑA COLADA FESTIVAL TH April 4 to 7, Ciego de Ávila 8 BRIDGE TO HAVANA FESTIVAL The Piña Colada Festival, established by musician Arnaldo April 22 to 29 Rodríguez, offers a mix of music, culture, and friendship. Organized by musician Jorge Luis Robaina, leader of the Each year, the city participates in this four-day carnival that group Karamba, the Bridge to Havana Festival will include showcases young avant-garde artists through an ambitious several provinces in Cuba this year and will feature the concert program that crosses musical genres. special participation of Cuban musicians Nassiry Lugo and Moneda Dura, and the Spanish duo Andy y Lucas. The shows will begin on April 23 at the Santa Ana center in 28TH IMPRINT OF SPAIN FESTIVAL Trinidad, and will continue to the Costa Sur cabaret in April 8 to 14, Havana Cienfuegos, the Varadero amphitheater in Matanzas; the Dance, music, visual arts, opera, poetry, and theater dominate El Sauce center in Havana, and will close on Sunday the Havana stages each year during the Festival La Huella de Espaa 28th at the Rumayor cabaret in Pinar del Río. (Imprint of Spain), which showcases not only the Spanish roots present in Cuban culture but also the customs of various regions and autonomous communities in Spain. At the Closing Gala, scheduled for Sunday, April 14 at the Teatro Mella, the play Encierro by the Compañia Irene Rodríguez will be premiered.

72 OnCuba Travel, Apr.-May. 2019 Apr.-May. 2019 oncubamagazine.com 73 ESPACIOS IRREPETIBLES Y UNA COMIDA DIFERENTE

CALLE 5ta. No. 511 e/ Paseo y 2. El Vedado, La Habana +537 8362025 [email protected]