New Zealand Highlights November 30–December 18, 2019
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NEW ZEALAND HIGHLIGHTS NOVEMBER 30–DECEMBER 18, 2019 Tui LEADERS: MARK AYRE & DION HOBCROFT LIST COMPILED BY: DION HOBCROFT VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM NEW ZEALAND HIGHLIGHTS NOVEMBER 30–DECEMBER 18, 2019 BY DION HOBCROFT This day-time Morepork saved us some nocturnal excursions. Few countries can out-compete New Zealand when it comes to the joy of touring—it was meant to be. Mark and I completed another fantastic tour in this friendly South Pacific nation that combines great food, great scenery, and great birds into a great package! The weather factor in New Zealand strongly dictates the running of our daily program. The first few days set in the Auckland region had us scurrying about, changing the running order of the tour to avoid a severe gale forecast accurately for day two. So, with the tides looking good, we headed to the shell bank beaches of Miranda on our first day. It proved a master stroke, as we had a flock of the exquisite Wrybills, the unique small plover with the laterally twisted bill, preening Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 New Zealand Highlights, 2019 away just in front of one of the well-planned hides. There was also a bunch of new birds for all of our participants—New Zealand Grebe, Brown Teal, Paradise Shelduck, Black-billed Gull, South Island and Variable oystercatchers, New Zealand Dotterel, Royal Spoonbill, Swamp Harrier and more. We also had luck with several rarer East Asian migratory shorebirds including two Far Eastern Curlews, a Marsh Sandpiper in full breeding plumage, and a fine Broad-billed Sandpiper. We found these by scanning carefully through four thousand Bar-tailed Godwits and several hundred Red Knots. A close-up of the blue button-like wattles, on the bizarre North Island Kokako. Today we were supposed to be on a boat trip to the Hauraki Gulf, but the gale was due to come in, all ferries were canceled and, in fact, all flights further south were canceled. The morning remained quite fine, so we took advantage and headed out to Tawharanui peninsula. A Buff-banded Rail greeted us in the salt Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 New Zealand Highlights, 2019 marsh, yet even better was a pair of South Island Takahe with a chick we lucked onto crossing the edge of a glade. They dallied in the scope briefly before disappearing into dense flax. In a forested gully we enjoyed our first New Zealand Pigeons, North Island Robins, North Island Saddlebacks, Whiteheads, abundant Tui, and New Zealand Bellbirds while the gale began to make its presence felt. We drove to a small coastal estuary hoping for New Zealand Fairy Tern, but all we got was a free dermal abrasion from the whipping sand, so we soon fled the scene. Visibility diminished, horizontal rain appeared, and the van was buffeted, but within an hour it had passed over. We were well-positioned at Waipu and with ever brightening conditions made the breakthrough with a pair of Fairy Terns we scoped in a protected fenced off area. With only forty individuals surviving, few birds are as rare as this. The fearsome looking Wetapunga is harmless, endangered, and one of the world’s heaviest insects. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 New Zealand Highlights, 2019 Being close to the ferry pick up, we had a relaxing morning start before cruising over to Tiritiri Island. Our luck held; almost straight away we came across the North Island Kokako with a bill full of plant material to take to a well-hidden chick. Stitchbirds made lightning-fast visits to a feeder, challenging the photographers; we found a fantastic pair of Rifleman and our first Red-crowned Parakeets. We enjoyed more repeat performances of New Zealand forest birds that we had encountered earlier at Tawharanui. Spotless Crake was calling in two locations but remained well-hidden. A highlight was finding the giant Wetapunga, one of the world’s heaviest flightless insects, a giant cricket that weighs as much as a Song Thrush. Yet another highlight was finding a day-roosting Morepork, the compact chocolate-brown hawk-owl that is quite numerous in the forest yet often elusive. The kokako really performed for us with two further excellent encounters with this critically threatened and most enigmatic bird. Tiritiri had been kind to us. Fairy Prions were common at sea in both the Hauraki Gulf and Cook Strait. We had been lucky to reschedule our Hauraki Gulf pelagic, but it would have to be a half-day, as we would need to drive through to Rotorua, so we were a bit up Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 5 New Zealand Highlights, 2019 against it, as it is a key day to find several rare pelagic birds. Driving to the boat, we were lucky to find a Laughing Kookaburra, a rare introduced bird in New Zealand. Once into the key area off Little Barrier Island we commenced chumming, enjoying great views and numbers of White-faced Storm-Petrels bounding across the ocean surface like kangaroos; filter-feeding Fairy Prions; Buller’s, Flesh-footed, Fluttering, Sooty, and Short-tailed shearwaters; quail-like Common Diving-Petrels; and Cook’s Petrel (named after the nautical genius); yet there was no sign of some of the hoped for rarities. We changed chumming locations a few times and then, as if by magic, two Black Petrels appeared right in front of us, and they were hungry. Then up popped the enigmatic New Zealand Storm-Petrel for repeat viewing opportunities, just in the nick of time! Good looks at Little Penguin and two Pacific Reef-Herons made it a great abbreviated pelagic. The journey through to Rotorua went well, so we squeezed in a short visit to the lake, taking in our first New Zealand Scaup. The torrent specialist Blue Duck showed well in the North Island. Pureora Forest was our first key birding destination. A remote area of giant old growth totara, rimu, and white pine, it is a fabulous forest of towering trees, thick Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 6 New Zealand Highlights, 2019 moss, and fantastic fern diversity. Good birding too, and we soon had point-blank looks at curious Yellow-crowned Parakeets peering at us. It was a big stroke of luck to first have a pair of New Zealand Falcons cackling and flying above us, followed by Mark locating a fine perched Long-tailed Koel in the forest interior. Next we whistled up a pair of emerald-green Shining Bronze-Cuckoos. Driving though the back roads, we made it out onto Lake Taupo. Here, in a thick bed of raupo and coprosma, a pair of delightful Fernbirds perched up, giving their quaint “chick” calls and showing off their ragged tails. The torrent specialist Blue Ducks were in excellent form and breeding well. We had great experiences with two pairs, both with one to two ducklings. They are truly bizarre waterfowl. At Chateau Tongariro, with views of the great volcanic peaks and a fine dinner, the participants watched Mark and Dion battle it out for the Trans-Tasman trophy on the full-size snooker table. Dion managed to win this year making it two all. It is an evenly poised cliff-hanger for the 2020 play-off. The amazing Tui with its fantastic song is a signature passerine through most of New Zealand. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 7 New Zealand Highlights, 2019 The fog and clouds rolled in the next morning, making it a challenge to find a New Zealand Pipit. Finally the pipit gave itself up, and our first New Zealand Tomtit was well appreciated. One of the last surviving feral Rooks was a bonus near Ohakune. On the coast of Cook Strait at Manawatu River we spent a bit of time scanning the tidal flats and did quite well to locate a Little Egret in breeding plumage, two Pacific Golden-Plovers, and our first beautiful Double-banded Plovers. A final stop produced our faithful pair of Black-fronted Dotterels, and they could be scoped upon a suspected nest at Otaki through a mesh fence. That night we experienced incredible electric storms and flash flooding on the Kapiti Coast. Flooding nearly cost us the Black Stilt, but luckily we found this individual near Twizel. Somewhat miraculously they could take us over to Kapiti Island the following morning. It was an exercise in dodging torrential rain. Set up in the lodge, it just Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 8 New Zealand Highlights, 2019 tipped down with rain, building itself up into a mini-cyclone squall that was a spectacular tempest that looked like people were throwing buckets of water in all directions. The creek flooded, and Wekas and Kakas sought refuge in the building, as did all of us. Despite this deluge, we stayed really warm and dry, well-fed, and toasty. It was remarkable. Even more remarkable, it eased off at night so we could look for the hoped for Little Spotted Kiwi. They proved difficult in the evening session with just one sighting. Dion arranged a 3:00 am search, and the participants who came on this were well-rewarded with three great sightings of five birds—watching one eat an earthworm and another tapping its beak as it probed the soil in front of us. The views were very good. White-winged Black Tern was added to our haul of rare visitors to New Zealand on this year’s tour. We also found Broad-billed Sandpiper, Marsh Sandpiper, Far Eastern Curlew, Hoary-headed Grebe, Little Egret and Sanderling.