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z Available online at http://www.journalcra.com INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF CURRENT RESEARCH International Journal of Current Research Vol. 5, Issue, 12, pp.4014-4017, December, 2013 ISSN: 0975-833X RESEARCH ARTICLE WEAVING AND LIVELIHOOD IN SHANTIPUR OF WEST BENGAL: PAST AND PRESENT 1Pradipta Dubey and 2,*Dr. Subhrangsu Santra 1Department of Rural Development and Management, University of Kalyani, Nadia 2Department of REC, PSV, Visva-Bharati, Sriniketan ARTICLE INFO ABSTRACT Article History: The Weaving community of Shantipur of Nadia district of West Bengal performing the activities as a Received 16th September, 2013 means of livelihood since long back. Earlier the weaving had potentiality to meet all basic demands of Received in revised form the families involved in the activity. But at present only the weaving alone as an activity failed to 11th October, 2013 provide minimum livelihood support among the weaver. In this paper we have tried to represent the th Accepted 28 November, 2013 involvement of the community and the past and present status of the weaving as an economic activity. Published online 25th December, 2013 Key words: Shantipur, Handloom, Livelihood, Past and present status. Copyright © Pradipta Dubey and Dr. Subhrangsu Santra. This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited. INTRODUCTION together accounted for 65.62% of the handloom units. Almost The tradition of weaving by hand constitutes one of the richest all handloom production in India is for domestic markets. As and most vibrant aspects of the Indian cultural heritage. per the Third Handloom Census, out of the 38.47 lakh adult Handloom weaving is largely decentralized and weavers in the persons engaged in weaving and allied activities in the sector are mainly from the vulnerable and weaker sections of country, 77.90 % are women, 10.13% belong to the Scheduled the society, who weave for their household needs and also Castes (SC), 18.12% belong to the Scheduled Tribes (ST) and contribute to production in the textile sector. The handloom 45.18% belong to Other Backward Classes (OBC). The details sector is a major employment generating sector. As per the are given in Tables 2 and 3 below: latest (3rd) Handloom Census of 2009-10, there are 23.77 lakh handlooms in the country, providing employment to 43.32 About Shantipur lakh handloom weavers and ancillary workers. This includes 38.47 lakh adult handloom weavers and ancillary workers, of If there is a place on earth where nearly one hundred eleven which 24.72 lakh are engaged full time and 13.75 lakh are on different weaver communities cohabit in one place, it is only in part time basis. The element of art and Craft present in Indian Shantipur. Besotted in Nadia District of West Bengal and handlooms makes it a potential sector for the upper segments located about 90 K.M from Kolkata. Shantipur as a single of the both domestic as well as global. As estimated about 84% largest sourcing destination for the trademark Jacquard sarees of total handlooms in the world are in India. of Bengal or commonly known as Shantipuri ‘Tant’ sarees. The sarees are termed as per the design used in the extra warp Present Situation meant for side border. The ground base is Cotton but the extra warp or border different textiles yarns Muga, Twisted Cotton, With the largest number of handlooms in the world, India Zari, Gold or silver is used. Since ancient times, Shantipur and produces approximately 6541 million sq m of handloom cloth the surrounding regions have been famous for handloom annually. West Bengal, Tamil Nadu, Uttar Pradesh, Andhra sarees. It has recently gained the status of municipality. Pradesh, Assam, and Manipur are the major handloom States Neighbouring Fulia, still a village is often uttered in same and accounting 75% of handloom weaving in the country. As breath with Shantipur, their contrasting backgrounds per the Third Handloom Census, (2009-10) Assam (12.41 notwithstanding. Together they are perhaps the most lakh), West Bengal (4.07 lakh), and Manipur (1.79 lakh) renowned Bengal handloom saree weaving centre in Bengal. Shantipur and Fulia sarees are household names across India. *Corresponding author: Dr. Subhrangsu Santra Shantipur – Fulia region has over 125,000 handlooms, Department of REC, PSV, Visva-Bharati, Sriniketan churning out Shantipuri, Tangail, and Jamdani handloom 4015 Pradipta Dubey and Dr. Subhrangsu Santra, Weaving and livelihood in shantipur of West Bengal: Past and present sarees in a variety of yarns like cotton, tussar and silk. Dhotis, systematised and was well organised leading to good dress materials, stoles and scarves are also woven. recognition during the period of Mughal Empire. Saree was exported to Afghanistan, Iran, Arab Greece & Turkey. The Table 1. Statistics as per Handloom Census of 2009-10 (in Lakh) healthy trend continued till the early twentieth century. Now Number of looms 23.77 the weaving activity has flourished to a large extent. Officially, Number of persons engaged in weaving and allied activities 43.32 there are about 70,000 working looms and more then a Lakh of Number of adult weavers and allied workers 38.47 people involved directly and indirectly in weaving and its Source: Third Handloom Census, (2009-10), NCAER, New Delhi. preparatory activities. The women basically undertake the preparatory works like separation of hanks, sizing, pirn Table 2. No. of Handloom adult weavers & allied workers by winding as more labourer job (Government of India, 1996). It Gender is generally observed that all weavers of the Shantipur saree Handloom adult weavers & allied cluster inherit excellent weaving skills for weaving sarees on Male Female Total workers Jacquard looms. Weavers possessing traditional skills in Number of workers (lakh) 8.48 29.98 38.47 Jacquard weaving classified in two main categories namely – Percentage 22.10 77.90 100.00 Tangails and Dhaniakhalis made in fine cotton and silk yarns Source: Third Handloom Census, (2009-10), NCAER, New Delhi. weave Shantipur sarees. Table 3. No. of Handloom adult weavers & allied workers by Caste The endeavour behind this ‘creative treatment of actuality’ (featuring the weaving process by Jacquard looms, its Handloom adult weavers SC ST OBC Others Total components, the preparatory activities and the people behind & allied workers by Caste No. of workers (lakh) 3.90 6.97 17.38 10.22 38.47 the making of Tant) was made with an intention to spread a Percentage of total 10.13 18.12 45.18 26.57 100.00 global awareness to know the art, skill and sweat involved Source: Third Handloom Census, (2009-10), NCAER, New Delhi. behind this craft and thus raising voice to save this indigenous craft of India, which is on the verge of extinction. During the Historical view of Shantipur mid eighties and later in the mid nineties, there were weaver movements for the wage hikes but were unsuccessful for the There are records of handloom saree weaving activity in suppression by these Mahajans. Government has taken an Shantipur, a centre of Vaishnavite culture and Bhakti honest initiative to save this crafting heritage by grants, health th movement (Collier et al., 1974), as early as the 15 century. coverage and providing other Below Poverty Line (BPL) Weaving flourished throughout the medieval era, and the facilities. The Bengal Small Scale Aids Industry Act during the famed indigo-dyed Neelambari (of a particular saree, name early eighties (1980 –83) (Government of India, 1942), was derived from Neel, its blue colour) made the Shantipur saree a instrumental support of the government for the growth of the household name. There is a strong sense of identity among Handloom industry. As per the act, financial aid to a maximum Shantipur weavers. They united to agitate against the of Rs. 10,000/- in shape of 50% grant & 50% Loan has to be stranglehold of the Dadni system of the British East India provided to the individual weavers for purchase of looms and Company and even took their grievances to colonial courts Margin money, which is still beyond the reach of most of the th during the19 century (De, Anup, 2008). The British weavers. It has even formed cluster consortia for the 1 controlled the industry through their East India Company development of these weavers. But in reality it only exists in (Dooley and William, 1914). Those who opposed were papers or probably for too few people and not for the mass. If severely punished. Finally the control of East India Company this continues, India as well as Bengal will lose a century old came to an end with the intervention of Governor General of crafting heritage including a community of craftsmen Kolkata, for the Common representation of grief of the united possessing a rare skill. weavers. The product had its unique specific proposition in the market for its quality of yarn used in weaving. Hand Spun Community Involvement Yarn of 250 - 300 s, which is beyond the scope of mill, was used for weaving, which could counterfeit even the imported In West Bengal total weaver household is 4.07 lakh cotton yarn of Manchester. In the decades leading up to (Government of India, 1974) that is 14.6% of total household independence several innovations were introduced in the loom of India. West Bengal has 62.6 per cent of handloom and pattern of weaving, Shantipur saw gradual inflow of households belonging to the other caste, another 25.2 per cent techniques like the Barrel Dobby, facilitating the conversion households are from the Scheduled Caste (SC) category, and from Throw Shuttle to Fly Shuttle (1920s), the Jacquard 11.4 per cent households are from Other Backward Caste Machine (1930s), and sectional warping and sizing that (OBC) category and 0.8 per cent belonging to the Scheduled allowed production of warp yarns 350 yards long (1930s) Tribe (ST) category.