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Lake & Around

Includes  Why Go? Como...... 117 Set in the shadow of the snow-covered Rhaetian Alps and Triangolo Lariano. . . . 125 hemmed in on both sides by steep, verdant hillsides, Lake Bellagio ...... 125 Como (aka Lake Lario) is perhaps the most spectacular of ...... 136 the three major lakes. Shaped like an upside-down Y, meas- uring around 160km in squiggly shoreline, it’s littered with & villages, including exquisite Bellagio and . Where Val Menaggio ...... 137 the southern and western shores converge is the lake’s main Varenna...... 139 town, Como, an elegant, prosperous Italian city. Lugano Among the area’s siren calls are some extraordinarily (Switzerland) ...... 142 sumptuous villas, often graced with paradisiacal gardens. Bellinzona...... 147 The mountainous terrain means that opportunities for tak- ing bird’s-eye views of the lake and its towns are numerous. And with a fraction of the visitors drawn here compared to Lake Maggiore or Lake Garda, and its surround- Best Places to ing area offer the traveller the chance to enjoy a real sense Eat of discovery. ¨¨Crotto del Sergente (p121) ¨¨Materia (p129) ¨¨Il Cavatappi (p140) Road Distances (km) ¨¨Antica Trattoria del Bellinzona 91 Risorgimento (p136) ¨¨Locanda dell’Isola (p133) Como 31 60 ¨¨Osteria Sale e Tabacchi Lecco279228 (p138) Lugano 63 29 32 60

Best Places to Escape ¨¨Valtellina (p141) Bellagi o Bellinzon a Como Lugano ¨¨Correno Plinio (p138) ¨¨ (p140) ¨¨La Dorsale del Triangolo Lariano (p44) 117 COMO between the 14th and 18th centuries, and is % 031 / POP 84,500 crowned by a high octagonal dome. With its charming historic centre, the town Villa Sucota HISTORIC BUILDING of Como sparkles year-round. Within its re- (%031 338 49 76; www fondazioneratti. org;. Via maining 12th-century city walls, the beau- 19; hgardens 10am-6pm Sun year- tiful people of this prosperous city whisk round, daily in Aug; museum hours vary) A grand about from shop to cafe, sweeping by the villa overlooking the lake, northwest of the grandeur of the city’s cathedral, villas and the centre, Villa Sucota was built in the late- loveliness of its lake shore with admirable 19th and early-20th centuries. It has been insouciance. The town is a lovely spot for an home to various aristocratic families over aimless wander, punctuated with coffee and the years, including Metternich, Napoleon’s drink stops, especially in Piazzas Cavour, doctor. These days it serves as the headquar- Alessandro Volta and San Fedele. ters for the Antonio Ratti Foundation, with Como built its wealth on the silk indus- a focus on textiles and contemporary art. try and it remains Europe’s most important Changing exhibitions are held inside (some producer of silk products. free), and there’s usually public art in the

gardens. Lake Como & A round 1 Sights Museo della Seta MUSEUM oBasilica di San Fedele BASILICA (Silk Museum; %031 30 31 80; www .museoseta (Piazza San Fedele; h8am-noon & 3 .30-7pm) como com;. Via Castelnuovo 9; adult/reduced €10/7; With three naves and three apses, this evoc- h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, to 1pm Sat) ative basilica is often likened to a clover leaf. Lake Como’s Parts of it date from the 12th century while aspiring silk makers still learn their trade in the facade is the result of a 1914 revamp. The the 1970s-built Istituto Tecnico Industriale 16th-century rose window and 16th- and di Setificio textile technical school. It’s also 17th-century frescoes enhance the appeal. home to the Museo della Seta, which draws together the threads of the town’s silk his-

The apses are centuries-old and feature C some eye-catching sculpture on the right. tory. Early dyeing and printing equipment omo features amid displays that chart the entire A craft and antiques market (Craft & An- tiques Market; h9am-7pm Sat) fills the piazza fabric production process. in front of the basilica on Saturdays. Basilica di Sant’Abbondio BASILICA (Via Regina; h8am-6pm summer, to 4 .30pm win- HISTORIC BUILDING ter) (%031 25 23 52; www villaolmocomo. .it; Via Can- About 500m south of Como’s city walls toni 1; gardens free, villa entry varies by exhibition; hvilla during exhibitions 10am-6pm Tue-Sun, gardens 8am-11pm Apr-Sep, to 7pm Oct-Mar) Set facing the lake, the grand creamy facade of OPEN GARDENS neoclassical Villa Olmo is one of Como’s big- gest landmarks. The extravagant structure On Sundays, the interconnected was built in 1728 by the Odescalchi family, grounds of three Como villas open to related to Pope Innocent XI. If there’s an the public (from about 10am to 6pm). art exhibition showing, you’ll get to admire Dotting the shore just northwest of the the sumptuous stile liberty (Italian art nou- centre, a 1km promenade connects the veau) interiors. Otherwise, you can enjoy the Villa Olmo, the Villa del Grumello Italianate and English gardens. (www villadelgrumello. .it; Via Cernobbio 11; At press time, parts of the grounds and hgrounds 10am-7pm Sun year-round, daily sections of the villa were closed for long- in Aug) and the Villa Sucota. Some- term restoration and garden improvements. times referred to as the Chilometro della Conoscenza (Kilometre of Knowl- oDuomo CATHEDRAL edge), this scenic stroll takes in lush (Cattedrale di Como; %031 3 31 22 75; Piazza del trails, fragrant gardens and hilltop views Duomo; h10 .30am-5pm Mon-Sat, 1-4 .30pm Sun) with lovely Lake Como ever in the back- Although largely Gothic in style, elements ground. Be sure to stop in the Villa Olmo of Romanesque, Renaissance and baroque and the Villa Sucota, which often host can also be seen in Como’s imposing, mar- temporary art exhibitions. ble-clad duomo. The cathedral was built