ARCHAEOLOGICAL NEWSLETTER

NUMBER 35 AUTUMN 2002 Editorial

Among the problems that confront the archaeologist one is universal: how to Table of Coi1tei1ts locate and gain access to the existing relevant published literature. No single Editorial 1 institution, library or museum, national or international, has all that might be required , Features 2 and key items, especially the older Fabric Width Control and Sett in Warp­ literature, can turn up in surprising places. weighted Loom Mittelalterliche Textilfunde aus Ladenburg National libraries, at least in theory, acquire am Neckar everything that is printed in the western The Project Sea- languages , and much else besides. Most of A Preliminary Classification of Shapes of them, however, are on closed access, and Loomweight used on the Warp-weighted Loom require items to be ordered in advance: they are a last resort. The library of the North R�or� 14 European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles from the 2002 Excavation Season Textiles, now in the University of Freiburg, at Quseir al-Qadim, Egypt Germany (see ATN 34, 1) gathers The Sheep Project publications relating to western and northern Europe, and it ts m the interest of Reviews 18 everyone that the flow of offprints, articles Industry and Commerce in Ancient Italy and books to Freiburg continues. There is NESAT VUI, Lodz no comparable collection, however, for Early Textiles Study Group other geographical areas of the Textile Society of America Symposium archaeological textile world. Until a solution is found - a major benefactor perhaps ? - Source Materials 22 textile archaeologists will continue to travel , Recent Pub! ications both to study their material and to read about it. News in Brief 25 From time to time the Editor of ATN begins Ancient Textiles, Lund and Copenhagen, 2003 to fret that the manuscripts to hand or North American Textile Conservation promised will not be enough to fill the next Conference 2003 issue. This is one such time: if you have a report or query or any type of matter that could be of interest to ATN readers, please send it to us now ! Promises, too, will be gratefully received . We publish in English , German or French - and we would welcome French contributions m particular, to maintain the balance.

John Peter Wild (Editor) Felicity Wild (Editorial Assistant) 30 Prince's Road, Cover: Roman pipeclay figurine from Heaton Moor, Arrington, Cambridgeshire, of an 'improved' Stockport SK4 3NQ ram with a generalised medium or true United Kingdom medium fleece. (Drawing by G.Taylor, courtesy of A.Taylor) e-mail:

1 ATN 35, Autumn 2002 Feat-u. res In a similar way the design of weft sett must be related to the take-up rate so that Fabric Width Control and Sett m Warp­ the position of the fell, (the line where the weighted Loom Weaving pick is beaten into the cloth), remains constant as weaving proceeds. For this Introduction reason the weaving of weft sett close to the maximum is seldom attempted as mis­ Recent experimental work carried out by calculation can lead to the growth of the Lena Hammarlund in Sweden and Kate Banks fabric towards the reed and 'banging-off,' ie at UMIST in the UK in the weaving of low- the force between the fell and the reed coverl fabrics on a warp-weighted loom exceeds a preset safe value and the loom is have demonstrated a tendency for the stopped, again with damage to the warp selvedges to move inwards as the weaving threads. progresses. This occurs even if extra weft is placed in the selvedge zones, with the result The modern power loom is ideally suited to that the fabric progressively becomes the production of low-cover fabrics. The narrower. Two bands of higher sett (closer reed and temples ensure the maintenance of spaced) warp threads also form, somewhat warp spacing and fabric width respectively, inside the selvedge, which follow the and the take-up and warp let-off, in narrowing tendency (Hammarlund, pers. combination with fixed position beat-up, comm. ; Banks 1997). Attempts by the maintain the weft spacing at a constant value authors to understand and explain this and ensure the linearity of the weft system. phenomenon have led to a greater understanding of the process and to the Fabric narrowing on the warp-weighted proposal of a wider theory of quality and loom sett in warp-weighted loom fabrics. In control terms the warp-weighted loom is Fabric geometry, width control and the a single parameter system with only warp modern loom tension subject to effective control. The remammg variables, fabric width , weft Many researchers have studied the geometry tension, beat-up position, weft spacing and of woven fabrics amongst whom Pierce has warp spacing are either subjectively made the first major contribution (Pierce controlled by the weaver, e.g. weft tension, 1937). As is the case with most geometry­ beat-up force, and thus weft spacing, or are based models, those of Pierce address the subject to no external control, e.g. fabric problem of maximum sett and derive width and warp spacing. It is therefore to equations which predict the maximum sett be expected that variations in fabric width using various estimates of effective yar� and weft spacing will occur under normal diameter within the fabric, under the conditions. However, the experiments and compression forces that develop between the observations that led to this discussion have warp and the weft and between adjacent revealed a mechanism that is characterised threads in the same system. For the modern not by fluctuations in width about a mean weaver using horizontal power looms, as value, but rather a 'dogged' tendency for much as the user of modern hand-powered the fabric to reduce in width, almost as if a treadle looms, the establishment of hidden control system were operating, to maximum sett is a vital part of fabric steadily move the width towards a pre­ design , as any attempt to weave a fabric defined value, despite all of the efforts of with a warp sett higher that the maximum the weaver to resist it. would lead to considerable problems as weaving progressed . If the maximum warp In order to probe this mechanism it is sett were to be exceeded , the fabric would necessary to consider the controlling progressively increase in width and this parameters at the start of weaving and would lead to the development of abrasion examme how they change as weaving and damage of the warp ends against the proceeds. In many different geographic reed near the selvedges and the ultimate locations at different times warp-weighted breakage of these threads. weaving started by the weaving of a starting border on a band loom, the double elongated weft threads in the border

2 ATN 35, Autumn 2002 Pw �

Tw

Fig.l Fabric tension on warp-weighted loom

becoming the warp threads in the warp­ as any warp curvature out of the plane of weighted loom. The border was then laced the fabric Pw would create high restorative to the top beam of the warp-weighted loom forces at 90 degrees to the fell line, due to and the length of this border effectively the horizontal resolute of the warp tension, defined the start-up width. Once secured the 2Tw sin(90-Q) (Fig 2), where Q is the angle warp threads were grouped and weighted, of crimp. This horizontal resolute will tend with the (assumed) objective of achieving an to straighten the warp and force the weft even warp tension across the width. into a crimped state. If we now consider the However, it is possible that with selvedges forces parallel to the fell, then the reaction involving grouped or extra warps a higher forces, deriving from the bending selvedge tension may have been engineered deformation of the weft between the weft in an attempt to control fabric width. Once intersections, will only become significant as the counter shed/pattern sheds had been the warp sett tends towards a maximum, or laced weaving could commence, and the first in the very rare cases where the diameter of picks would serve to progressively split the the warp is much higher than the weft paired warps arising from the starting yarns. For low sett fabrics these forces will border. By the time approximately 20 picks be low and there will be little if any force had been beaten up, the warp spacing would tending to keep the warps apart or maintain be relatively even, and at that point it is the warp spacing. possible to analyse the forces acting in the fabric. The dominant external force is the Finally we must consider the tension in the warp tension, Tw (Fig.l). For low sett weft. This will be dependent on how the fabrics this force will tend to maintain the weft is inserted , and more significantly on warp as a flat plane, Pw. Consequently the how it is beaten-up. Common sense as well warp threads will develop negligible crimp, as iconographic evidence would suggest that

ATN 35, Autumn 2002 3 will be shorter than the previous one and the reduction in fabric width will proceed. This mechanism provides an explanation for the observed 'dogged' tendency for the fabric to reduce in width as weaving progressed. This process of narrowing has a secondary effect on the fabric. The sideways displacement of the warp threads at either edge of the fabric causes bending in these warps in the plane of the fabric, Pw, at the fell (Fig. 4), If the warp thread is displaced by an incremental angle P, this will generate a sideways reaction force, Tw sin P, in the fabric plane, that tends to oppose the reduction in width, and will push the affected warps against one another.

As a consequence of these reaction forces a band of high warp sett (density) develops on either side of the fabric, corresponding in width to the warp threads that have been displaced sideways by the fabric narrowing. Under the combined influence of the weft tension tending to narrow the fabric and the warp tension in these two bands tending to push the warp threads sideways and outwards, the warp sett increases until a sett close to the maximum is achieved. The forces are then balanced and further consolidation prevented. Paradoxically the selvedges remain relatively low in sett Fig.2 Resolution of warp tension because weft drawn into these areas during beat-up prevents the development of a high the weft was laid into an open shed and held weft tension at the extreme edges. All these high as the shed was closed and the weft conditions were visible in the weavmg trapped (Fig.3). The simplest way forward is then for the weaver to open the counter shed and beat the weft into the fell with a sword beater. If this method is adopted then the length of weft trapped will not be sufficient to provide for the development of the required weft crimp during beat-up, and the weft tension will rise. Even if extra weft is allowed to be drawn in during crimp development, it will only be drawn into the immediate selvedge zone nearest to the weft supply, as this movement is resisted by the rapid build-up of frictional forces between the weft and the warp threads, and as a consequence the weft in the centre of the fell will develop a significant tension. Because there is no force in the weft or between the warps to resist this tension it will inevitably lead to a reduction in fabric width as the warp threads are drawn closer together. This process is clearly progressive as the length of the next pick, defined by Fig.3 Warp-weighted loom, 6th century BC the length of the fell between the selvedges,

4 ATN 35, Autumn 2002 would occur in the weft and the fabric would then 'store' potential shrinkage that would develop during scouring. An alternative and better procedure would be to weave in such a manner that extra weft is drawn into the fell across the full width of the fabric as the weft crimp develops. Clearly the friction on the weft yarn could be reduced by beating up aga inst a closed but not crossed shed, thus making it easier for extra weft to be drawn in. Unfortunately this does not resolve the problem because the full weft crimp only develops as the weft is beaten up into the crossed shed, at which point it is immobilised and it is impossible to draw in the required extra length.

Tw sin P Jn her experimentation described in 1997, Hammarlund discovered , (rediscovered?) a method of preventing the narrowing process. She beat up the weft in narrow sections, starting from the selvedge remote from the weft supply and progressively moving across towards the other selvedge Tw and feeding in the exact quantity or weft required to maintain the fabric width. This sequential beat-up of narrow sections prevented the weft from being trapped across the full width and enabled extra yarn Fig.4 Lateral resolution of warp tension to be fed into each section as it was beaten up. The weaving sword is not ideally suited carried out by Banks at UMJST in 1992-3 to beating up in narrow sections. This and by Hammarlund during her process is much more easily carried out experimentation in 1996-97. using a weaver's comb of approximately Scm in width. Once the weft crimp has been Prevention of the narrowing tendency developed by the sectional beat-up, the sword can be used to level the pick, and Jn order to prevent this narrowing process define the weft spacing. from developing and destroying the quality of the fabric piece there would seem to be With coarse fabrics an alternative to the two options. The first and most obvious weaver's comb might have been the 'pin­ procedure would be to const rain the beater'. This implement whkh has been selvedges to remain at the same width by associated with warp-weighted weaving by lacing them to the verticals of the warp­ other authors such as Gudj6nsson weighted loom. Whilst there is no doubt (Guoj6nsson 1983-84), may have enabled that this method would be effective in terms the weft to be pushed into the fell of maintaining the cloth width on the loom, sequentially across the fabric, thus drawing the process describe above would still occur in the necessary extra weft to prevent with respect to the weft tension in the narrowing. middle of the fabric and this would lead to cloth with looser selvedges and tighter warp Conclusions sett in the middle portion. Furthermore the high weft tension would remain within the The force analysis described above explains fabric if weaving proceeded rapidly, and the mechanism of fabric narrowing that has when the selvedges were unlaced to enable been observed when weaving low cover the take-up beam to be rotated, the fabric fabrics on warp-weighted looms. would contract in width. Alternatively, if Hammarlund has described a method to weaving proceeded slowly, stress relaxation counter this by beating-up the warp in

ATN 35 , Autumn 2002 5 narrow sections with a weaver's comb. The References method has one major disadvantage in that the beat-up becomes a slower more careful Banks, K. 1997, MPhil thesis, UMIST. process with the additional need to straighten the weft with the sword beater as Guoj6nsson, E. E. 1983-84, 'Nogle an after-process and in practice this would bemrerkninger om den islandske vregtvrev, have reduced the rate of fabric manufacture vefstaour'. By og bygd. Norsk significantly. Clearly for the production of Folksmuseums Arbok 30, 116-128. low warp-sett fabrics the horizontal loom, with a reed to maintain warp spacing and Pierce, F.T. 1937, 'The Geometry of Cloth temples to maintain the fabric width at the Structure', The Journal of the Textile fell, made it possible to insert the weft as a Institute 28, 45-96. single 'shot' and beat it into position across the whole width with the reed, without the Footnote problem of progressive narrowing. This must have made the horizontal loom much 1 Fabric cover refers to the extent to which more attractive for the weaving of such the yarns in the fabric cover the 'footprint' fabrics and may have contributed to its of the fabric. In a high cover fabric the rapid spread through the majority of yarns are pressed closely together. European countries. Nevertheless despite its apparent problems the warp-weighted loom remained in use in Norway and Iceland until W.D. Cooke the 20th century . Kate Banks Department of Textiles The above analysis implicitly suggests a UMIST further solution to the problem of fabric Manchester M60 lQD UK narrowing on warp-weighted looms, namely the weaving of a fabric with a warp sett Lena Hammarlund very close to the maximum. Under these Orangerigatan 22 conditions the narrowing process would 41266 Goteborg Sweden rapidly lead to 'jamming' in the warp and the development of high inter-yarn forces between the warp threads which would resist the narrowing effect of the weft tension, limit the width reduction and eliminate the Mittelalterliche Textilfunde aus Ladenburg need for sequential beat-up. am Neckar

In this way the weaving of very wide, high Bei einer Ausgrabung in Ladenburg am warp sett fabrics may well have been easier Neckar wurde 1999 in der Wormser Strasse on the warp-weighted loom than on a 37 ein Tongefass mit Mi.inzen gefunden. horizontal loom and this could be one of the Zwischen den Mi.inzen befanden sich auch factors that has ensured its use until Textilreste, die von der Ausgraberin Dr relatively recently. The questions that arise Britta Rabold vom Landesdenkmalamt from this work are starting to be answered Baden-Wi.irttemberg, Archaologische by the research that has taken place within Denkmalpflege, Aussenstelle Karlsruhe, zur the 'Seafaring Project' funded by the EU textiltechnischen Bearbeitung tibergeben through the Raphael programme and this wurden. Sie stammen aus dem 12./13. will fo rm the focus of a separate Jahrhundert und befanden sich in einem publication. zerbrochenen Tongefass (Abb.5). Unter den Textilfunden befanden sich Garne, Schntire, Acknowledgements Bander und Gewebe. Die Garn- und Zwirnfragmente di.irften zur Schliessung von The authors are grateful to the EU Raphael kleinen Beuteln gedient haben, in denen die Seafaring programme for providing support Mtinzen verpackt waren. Ob dies auch fur for the work that enabled these studies to die schmalen gewebten und geflochtenen be undertaken. Bander zutrift, kann nicht mit Sicherheit gesagt werden.

6 ATN 35, Autumn 2002 Abb.5 Der Mi..inzhortfund aus Ladenburg am Neckar. MaBstab 3:2 (Foto: Landesdenkmalamt Baden- Wurttemburg)

ATN 35 , Autumn 2002 7 Fig.6 Cap of sea-silk, 14th century. Musee d'art et d'histoire St Denis, France. Scale 1:2 {Photo: E. Jacquot, Unite d'Archeologie, F-St Denis)

8 ATN 35 , Autumn 2002 Die Gewebe, die die Mi.lnzen umwickelten The Project Sea-silk - Rediscovering an oder mit diesen verbunden waren, sind alle Ancient Textile Material in der einfachsten Binding, der Tuch- oder Leinwandbindung, gewebt warden . Es Sea-silk is the product of the nobilis wurden fUr Kette und SchuB immer Garne in L. , the biggest shellfish of the z-Drehung genommen. Jedoch liegen . It has a length of up to verschiedene Gewebequalitaten vor, namlich one meter and fastens itself in the sand feine und mittelfeine. Sie sind teilweise sehr along the coast with a beard of very fine, dicht gewebt and teilweise schleierartig. Es strong filaments, the so-called . sind Gewebetypen, die problemlos auf den These fibrous tufts - they have a length of im Hochmittelalter ublichen Trittwebsttihlen up to 20cm - are the basic product for sea­ hergestellt werden konnten. silk . The tufts cut off the mussel have to be washed several times, dried , combed and Obwohl nur ein kleiner Beutel vollstandig spun like silk . The result is a most fine, erhalten geblieben ist, durften auch die very resistant yet very supple textile ubrigen Leinengewebe fruher zu solchen material, once famous and highly appreciated Beuteln gehort haben. for its irridescent brown-golden colour.

Die Faseranalysen, die von Antoinette Rast­ This magnificent old textile material is still Eicher (Ennenda, Schweiz) durchgefuhrt nearly unknown, both by historical and wurden, ergaben, dass die Gewebe alle aus textile experts and this in spite of the most pflanzlichen Fasern uberwiegend detailed and comprehensive study about the Flachs/Lein - gefertigt word en sind . Die truth and myth and legends of 'Pinna and Zwirne und Band er, deren Fasern mehr oder her silken beard', written by Daniel weniger stark zerfallen sind, bestehen McKinley in 1998. One of the reasons may dagegen aus tierischen Fasern. Es durfte urn be that the term 'byssus' was and still is Seide handeln. used also for fine ancient textiles in , or silk. This has led to many Der Munzhortfund aus Ladenburg ist bisher misinterpretations when speaking about sea­ der erste, der von uns bearbeitet wurde. silk . Another reason is that most of the Aus Polen liegt dagegen eine sea-silk objects have been found in museums zusammenfassende Darstellung von Marta of natural history and not in textile Pytlewicz (1998) vor. Die polnischen collections - as one would expect. Many Munzhortfunde befanden sich wie die Funde travellers on 'grand tour' in Mediterranean aus Ladenburg in Tongefassen. countries brought them back as souvenirs in their cabinets of curiosity - which later Die Textilfunde aus Ladenburg werden im turned into museums. The third reason is Rahmen des Ausgrabungsberichtes simply that there probably never existed a veroffentlicht. large-scale industry, but only small-scale production in some families, convents and Literatur orphanages. The basic material was too rare, the process of production too complicated Pytlewicz, M. , 1998, 'Polish Textiles from and so the product too expensive. Coin Hoards of the lOth - Middle 17th Centuries', in: L. Bender J0rgensen, C. The Project Sea-silk started in 1997 at the Rinaldo (Hrsg), Textiles in European Natural History Museum in Base!, Archaeology: Report from the 6th NESA T Switzerland. Its three main goals are: 1. to Symposium, 7-11 May 1996 in Boras, trace the history of this almost forgotten GOteborg, 265-270. textile material, its production and manufacture, trade and diffusion; 2. to compile an inventory of all objects in sea­ Klaus Tidow, silk still existing in museums and private Zur Ziegelei 18, collections worldwide; 3. to document the D-24598 Boostedt, knowledge and remains of this cultural Germany heritage in South Italy and the Mediterranean countries.

Clear evidence of small-scale manufacture of

ATN 35 , Autumn 2002 9 sea-silk goes back to the end of the 18th section the byssus fibre has a clear elliptical century (we still find remains in ). shape (Montegut 1999; Maeder and Main places were Taranto in Puglia and Halbeisen 2001). More difficult are Sardinia, proved are Sicily and Spain. This questions that need competence in and is documented by a list of over 40 objects cooperation from different disciplines, as found up to now. Yet many other places are those of philologists, historians, orientalists, mentioned in literature: Calabria, Corsica, textile experts and many more. What about the Dalmatian coast, Malta, Tunisia and even the so called 'abu qalamun' and the sea-wool Normandy in France. Half of the list in the time of the Arabs in Spain? Where is consists of gloves, but there are also caps, sea-silk in Byzantine times? Was sea-silk cravats, scarves, collars, children's clothing, ever known in India? What about the a muff and several hangings, knitted or diaphanous fabrics called 'tarantinidiae'? woven or unspun byssus used like fur, in What about sea-silk in the Phoenician plain sea-silk or mixed with other material. heritage? And last but not least: where are No stockings have yet been noted, although all these objects mentioned in literature? mentioned in nearly every article about sea­ And so on. So many questions, so few silk. Unique is a beautiful cap dated to the answers up to now! There is a wide field of 14th century, found in 1978 during problems waiting to be solved. excavations near the cathedral of St Denis near Paris, France (Fig.6) . It is knitted 'en I would be grateful for any information - avec les filets retors "S" de deux your help, on whatever scale, will be very bouts "Z'" and is nowadays part of the much appreciated. Thank you in advance! collection of the Musee d'Art et d'Histoire St Denis. References

But what about sea-silk in antiquity? rt D'Orazio, L. et al. 2000, 'Nature, Origin existed, but from what date, and to what and Technology of Natural Fibres of Textile extent, we do not yet know. Proof of the Artefacts Recovered in the Ancient Cities reality of the use of sea-silk for textile around Vesuvius', f. of Archaeological production at least in late antiquity is a Science 27, 745-754. fragment of a woven textile of the 4th century. It was found in 1912 in a woman's Hollendonner, F. 1917, 'Az aquincumi romai grave in Aquincum (Budapest), at that time szovet anyaga', Botanikai Kozlemenyek 16, a Roman town at the north-east frontier of 35-37. the empire. It was described in 1917 by F. Hollendonner and 1935 by L. Nagy. J.P. Maeder, F., M. Halbeisen 2001, Wild mentions this fragment in his study of "Muschelseide: Auf der Suche nach emem textile manufacture in the Northern Roman vergessenen Material', Waffen- und provinces (1970) and adds that it supports Kostilmkunde 1, 33-41. the assumption that the 'marine wool' of Diocletian's Price Edict meant sea-silk . McKinley, D. 1998, 'Pinna and her silken beard : A foray m to historical The joy was great when I found an article misappropriation', Ars Textrina 29, 9-223. analysing textile artefacts from excavations in Pompeii mentioning byssus fibres of the Montegut, D. 1999, 'Moth or mollusc? A L. (D'Orazio et al. 2000). Technical Examination of Byssus ', in: Unfortunately and to my regret more R.A. Rushfield, M.W. Ballard (edd.), The detailed analysis at the Swiss Federal Materials, Technology, and Art of Laboratories for Materials Testing and Conservation, New York, 186-203. Research in St. Gall, Switzerland, showed that the fibres cannot be sea-silk - they are Nagy, L. 1935, 'Aquincumi Mlimia­ supposed to be of a sort of sponge (results Temetkezesek . . . Mumienbegrabnisse aus not yet published). Aquincum', Dissertationes Pannonicae Musei Nationalis Hungarici, series 1, Fasc. 4. The Project Sea-silk is still at its beginning. Magyar Nemzeti Muzeum, Budapest, 35-39 One of the first things to do was the (deutscher Auszug). dissemination of an analytical identification of sea-silk, which is not difficult: in cross Wild, J.P. 1970, Textile Manufacture in the

10 ATN 35 , Autumn 2002 Northern Roman Provinces, Cambridge . and from 200 to 4000g. The terracotta and metal weights - as a rule decorated - are Felicitas Maeder professionally made, whereas most clay Natural History Museum weights appear to be homemade and Augustinergasse 2 undecorated. The shape and design of the CH-4001 Base/ Switzerland loomweights may be known over wide areas Phone: +41 61 271 57 70 (office) - the weights themselves were hardly traded Fax: +41 61 271 58 10 over long distances, at any rate not the homemade ones. Shapes of loomweights - rune prelimjnary types

Type 1. Irregular shape A Preliminary Classification of Shapes of a. hard natural stone, no Loomweight used on the Warp-weighted hole; Loom b. soft natural stone like soapstone, possibly reuse of From time to time I have been asked to put potsherds, one hole in the together a list of the numerous different most pointed part of the shapes of loomweight recorded at weight. archaeological excavations and in museum storehouses. Now and then I get myself Type 2. Shape of a ball (clay) confused when authors try to describe what This type ranges in shape the shape of a given loomweight is like. from irregular lumps to pure Many different, subjective and vividly balls, with no hole or one to descriptive words have found their way into two holes close to centre. texts. Hence, if no supporting photograph or sketch is at hand, misunderstandings will obviously arise. Type 3. Shape of a dome (clay) a. pure dome, one hole near This problem is the reason why the present top; author has prepared a preliminary b. slightly pointed top, one classification of loom weights (Fig. 7) and a hole near top (there ts a proposal for an easily intelligible gradual transition from type terminology. The word preliminary should 3b to the next type 4a). be emphasised ! Type 4. Shape of a cone (clay, metal) The content of this short note is reproduced a. pointed top, slightly curved in more detail in the forthcoming volume of profile, one hole near top; papers from the NESAT VII Symposium in b. truncated top, slightly Edinburgh in 1999. Originally the curved profile, one hole near classification was set up and intended for top; my book Kirkes Vcev of 1999 in which the c. & d. pointed (c)(Fig.8) or loom -shapes are treated in a full chapter. It truncated top (d), slightly is to be hoped that a future student will curved profile, the lower have the inspiration to go on and develop part tapering, possibly this first classification, so that loomweights from a point so high that the may then act as a new source of weight has the shape of a archaeological evidence. double cone, one hole near top. A few lines about the basic facts of loomweights are appropriate, such as Type 5. Shape of a pyramid (clay, metal) material, dimension, weight, production a. pure pyramid, bottom and the question of trade. Materials include square with rounded corners, worked and unworked natural stones as well slightly curved edges, as clay and metal. Dimension and net weight rounded top, one hole near range from a few centimetres to 15-2lcm

ATN 35, Autumn 2002 11 2. 3.

b

4.

8. Q.

© &tiS.N:r!itlR

Fig. 7 Types of loomweights. (Drawing: K -H. Strermose Nielsen and H. Holm Nielsen)

12 ATN 35 , Autumn 2002 top; b. shape of a classical Type 8. Shape of a doughnut (clay) pyramidal loomweight, bottom (The name refers to the well known square, smaller square flat top, American ring-shaped cake.) almost straight edges, one hole a. flattened ball, big hole near top; drilled through the centre, c. non-typical pyramid, flat square both faces rounded or one top nearly as large as the square face flat, edges slightly bottom, straight edges (hence the pointed or curved; nickname: 'box shape'); b. sausage of clay, when wet d. variant of the classical shape turned round a stick, big type 5b, bottom rectangular, hole, both faces flat, edges smaller rectangular flat top, slightly straight. curved edges, near top one or two holes through the broad face or one Type 9. 'Rochetti' (clay) hole through the narrow face; Rochetti (ita!.) are considered e. rounded variety of 5d. by classical archaeologists to be rollers for thread. As Type 6. Shape of a slab (clay/terracotta, cylindrical small weights, they soapstone, metal) seem inadequate for warp­ Seen from the narrow face this group weighted weaving, but they has the flat shape of a slab. Seen are most suitable for warp from the broad face type 6 has twining (see Kirkes Vcev, 49, numerous forms that are not defined 52). exhaustively yet. Commonly one hole, but up to four holes occur. References

Type 7. Shape of a lens (clay) Davidson, G. R., Corinth XII: The Minor The different subdivisions have Objects, Princeton, 1952 a few common features: 1) the circle must be taken as a basic form only; Nielsen, Karen-Hanne Strermose 1999, 2) seen from the front face two holes Kirkes Vcev, Opstadvcevens Historie og are always present in the upper nutidige Brug (The loom of Circe, the part. history of the warp-weighted loom and its a. circle, sometimes flat bottom; use today), Historisk-Arkreologisk b. circle, truncated top, traversed Fors0gscenter, Slange Alle 2, DK-4320 by a narrow and a wide groove, Lejre holes far from each other near the top; c. circle extended at bottom and Karen-Hanne Stcermose Nielsen top, the uppermost top is flat and Ved Gcerdet 7, VindeaJd has grooves like 7b; DK 3300 Frederiksvcerk d. shape of a heart, cross-sections have rounded tips, from the broad face one hole drilled through each 'heart bow'; e. shape of a heart, cross-section oval to almost round, one hole through each 'heart bow', but drilled from the narrow face.

(Some sickle-shaped objects with holes through the pointed tips have been discussed. If these are loomweights, they may have a certain kinship with 7b and 7c, and 7d and 7e as well because of the inexplicable grooves or gaps that characterise these types.)

13 ATN 35, Autumn 2002 I II . lii IV V VI VII (1069) (1071) (1072) (1075) (1076) (lO'F> (1080)

VIU IX X XI XII XIII XlV (1093) (1137) (1168) (1130) (1185) (1188) (1190)

Fig. 8 Development of 14 profiles of the cone-shaped loomweight, type 4c, Corinth, 100- 200 BC (After Davidson 1952, fig.23)

Repo rt::s an earliest date of 1248. Luckily this context contained extremely well preserved The Textiles from the 2002 Excavation organic material and 256 textiles were Season at Quseir al-Qadim, Egypt recorded. Most of the material is of domestic origin, though some, such as the As in previous years, a large number of large pieces of saddlery or packing, relate to textiles were excavated at Quseir al-Qadim, transport. Two examples of a distinctly dark the Red Sea port occupied during the Roman brown and yellow broad striped mat were and Islamic periods (1st and 2nd, and 13th found. They are not from the same textile and 14th centuries respectively). 863 textiles so perhaps indicate someone's taste for this were recorded from the 2002 season, 301 striking pattern. Also demonstrating the were Islamic, 555 were Roman and 7 could domestic nature of the deposit were several not be positively identified as one or the pieces of a twined, very open camel wool other. net that were too flimsy to take any weight, so may have served as light screens or Islamic Textiles curtains. Most notable in this trench was the discovery of half of a child's galabeya, This year's Islamic textiles came mainly which was sewn from high quality cotton from the large Islamic sebakh excavated in using a well tailored pattern. The rather trench 8. The most exciting find from this poor quality of the stitching perhaps reflects trench (and indeed from the whole the fact that the galabeya would quickly excavation) is a bag of gold, silver and become redundant as the baby grew. bronze coins and fragments which have Another interesting garment is what is allowed us to give the deposit in this trench probably a winter hat, made from bright

14 ATN 35, Autumn 2002 yellow camel wool, with red (now faded to Mons Claudianus, this was the first time pink) and yellow stripes. The original that an example has been found at Quseir. structure has largely disintegrated, but still Also recorded this year was a large piece of visible are long plied wool threads which Roman tunic. In previous years fragments of stick out all over it, making what must have tunics resewn into other items have been been a very striking hat! Also from this found. This is the first time that such a trench was the bag in which the gold and large piece has been found, identified as silver coins were kept. The notable feature being the front of a tunic. There is a of the textile is that it is in a very black soft swastika decoration at the collar, and two goat's hair fibre. Only one other textile of vertical clavi which end in small arrow-head similar type has been found at Quseir. shapes running down the front. The area Another brightly coloured piece of tex tile where the arms were sewn on, and the typical of the Islamic period is a fragment of reinforcing stitches, are clearly visible. slit tapestry in red, blue and green wool, Other Roman garments include what appears the slits stitched over in red and white wool to be a hat flap, which can be described as a to create a series of chevrons. Other half a crescent moon shape, ending in a interesting finds were an example of a large tassel. One very attractive piece of Roman piece of camel wool cloth, woven in two tailoring is shown in two fragments of fine colours in a '' . This sebakh yellow sheep's wool cloth joined along their also produced an intriguing hemmed warp selvedges. Both edges were first sewn diamond-shaped fragment of blue checked to thick green cords giving a 'piped' effect, cotton with the remains of a thin piece of before being sewn together, and a decorative wood sewn into the hem and a fragment of row of running stitch on either side of the cord sewn into one corner. Amongst various cord completes the effect. Another item suggestions for its use was that it may be a associated with clothing is a strap of width child's kite. A few examples of silk were 4cm in evenly woven wool which perhaps found this year, including a very small piece served as a belt. Several pieces this year of silk tapestry on linen warps. The pattern demonstrate a tailoring technique seen in was created in green, red, dark blue and previous seasons, in which coarse fabrics white , although it was too fragmentary are edged in a higher quality fabric. This to be able to decipher the larger pattern. appears as a way of creating a neat fray­ free edge on fabrics that are too inflexible There were fewer examples of resist dyes to be hemmed. An unusual construction found this year compared to previous years. technique for the Roman period is twining, One has a pattern of pink flowers on a blue and there is one example this year in thick background similar to fabrics found red and yellow cotton threads which appears previously; another has a poor quality white to be worked around a stick. A couple of design on an indigo background. It was intriguing finds are what seem to be the found in a mixed Roman and Islamic necks of 'draw-string' bags, one of which is context, and although it cannot be definitely lined with Z-spun cotton. Also of note were identified as Roman, it resembles examples two fragments, possibly of the same fabric, of resist dyed pieces found at Berenike of a which, although not of especially high Roman date. quality, are brightly coloured. They are on a red wool warp with a red background, and Roman Textiles have a stripe measuring 1. 8cm of pale yellow, green, blue, brown, blue green and The Roman sebakh-deposits were, as in pale yellow, which is a distinctive Roman previous years, exceptionally rich in textiles, combination recognised as probably being of with many examples of medium to heavy the 'shaded band' textile described in the weight , which were probably cloaks, Periplus. as well as textiles displaying the clavus stripes indicative of Roman tunics. This year Fiona J.L. Handley two remarkable garments were found. The Institute of Archaeology first is a child's sock, constructed in London WClH OPY UK nalebinding technique and striped in yellows, reds, and browns. Despite the frequency of both socks and this construction technique at other sites in the Eastern desert such as

ATN 35, Autumn 2002 15 The Sheep Project: finding out more about Some sheep have been kept at SAC on Medieval wool production unimproved pasture, and are thus generally considerably fitter and lighter. Others kept Wool was one of the main sources of on improved pasture are fatter and heavier. England's prosperity in the later Middle Skeletons of rams, ewes and wethers will be Ages. Contemporary historical sources tell compared in order to provide better criteria us about the value of wool production, taxes for identifying wethers (and for separating raised from wool, laws aimed at preventing rams and ewes); skeletons of sheep on exports of raw wool, and wool smuggling; unimproved and improved pasture will be and about the fortunes made from the wool compared in order to see how much effect trade, and the churches and houses it paid differences in nutrition have on the sheep for. These sources say relatively little about skeleton. how Medieval sheep were kept, and whether improvements in animal husbandry and in The project will also exam ine the effects of breeding selection were used to improve castration and differences of nutrition on the wool quality and yields. timing of tooth eruption and the fusion of the long bones. Relatively little is known The recovery and study of animal bones about either, and they have considerable from Medieval sites has added a little to our implications for the interpretation of bones understanding; but we still cannot answer from archaeological sites. If, for instance, basic questions about possible changes in castration delays fusion considerably without husbandry and breeding selection because we affecting tooth eruption, we may be able to know surprisingly Little about the biology of use this as one way of detecting castration sheep skeletons. For example: in the archaeological record (while needing to be more cautious about the use of fusion 1. We know that flocks of wethers were data to establish the ages at which animals important in wool production in the were killed). If, as another example, seventeenth and eighteenth centuries; studies differences in nutrition affect tooth eruption of modern wool sheep show that wethers relatively little (as some evidence already produce larger yields of finer wool than suggests), detailed ageing may provide more rams or ewes. It seems very likely that reliable evidence about the season at which wether flocks were an important part of animals were killed, and give us better ways Medieval wool production, and this may go of testing whether earlier sites were back to the early Medieval period (or even seasonally occupied. earlier). We cannot test or confirm this from excavated animal bones because we do The recent completion of the skeletal not know how to identify wether bones preparation laboratory at the Centre for reliably. Archaeology has allowed us to start preparing the skeletons of animals collected 2. We see at some sites that sheep bones for this project; we should have better from later phases are larger, on average, answers for these questions within a couple than from earlier phases (Fig. 9). But we do of years, and this should allow us to get not know whether this means that people better information from Medieval bone were selecting genetically for larger size, or assemblages. whether there are more wethers or rams and fewer ewes among the bones from the Sebastian Payne later phases, or whether the later sheep Centre for Archaeology were larger simply because they were better Fort Cumberland fed. Eastney Portsmouth P04 9LD UK A few years ago, we set out to try to answer some of these underlying questions in a project carried out in collaboration with the Scottish Agricultural College at Penicuik near Edinburgh. We chose sheep of the Shetland breed because they are relatively unimproved and so closer in type to Medieval sheep than modern English breeds

16 ATN 35 , Autumn 2002 10 Period 6 5

o L...... L.�- 206 226 246 266 286 306 Tibia Bd

Fig.9 Sheep bones fr om Launceston Castle increase in size from the thirteenth century (period 6) to the nineteenth century (period 11)

ATN 35 , Autumn 2002 17 Rev-iews I 01 N. Merion A venue Bryn Mawr PA 19010 USA Archaeological Methods and Approaches: Industry and Commerce in Ancient Italy: < mgleba@brynmawr. edu > Rome, 18-20.4.02

The conference, organized by Eric de Sena (American Academy in Rome) and Helene Des sales (£cole Fran<;aise de Rome), was aimed at creating a fo rum for young NESAT VIII, Lodz, Poland, 8-10.5.2002 scholars to discuss the current methodological trends in ancient Italian The eighth triennial symposium of the North archaeology. The chosen theme, production European Symposium for Archaeological and trade, attracted not only papers on the Textiles (NESA T) was held in L6dz in more traditional topics of metal and ceramic western Poland in May 2002. It was industries but also a number of organised by Dr Jerzy Maik, Director of presentations pertaining to ancient textiles. the Institute of Archaeology and Ethnology In fact, the conference opened with a of the Polish Academy of Sciences, L6dz session dedicated to textile production. The branch, who was a fo under-member of papers ranged chronologically from the Iron NESA T and attended its first meeting in Age to late Roman period and covered a NeumUnster in 1981, the sole representative variety of issues. Margarita Gleba discussed from Eastern Europe. the use of implements in reconstructing various aspects of textile production in Iron The formal lecture programme occupied the Age Italy. Laurent Hugot used iconographic first two and a half days (8. -10.May) and evidence to argue a possible use in spinning was capped by a series of site visits in L6dz of two cylindrical monuments found in itself. Theoretically the order of papers was Bologna. Christine Macheboeuf presented chronological, but this was somewhat evidence for production and trade of purple obscured by the number of speakers with a in Sicily and Italy in Roman times . Martine Medieval theme: the Migration Period was Leguilloux used archaeozoological evidence reached by lunchtime on the first day! to identify tanneries in Roman settlements. The last paper, by Jacopo Bonetto, Andrea The symposium opened with an examination Raffaele Ghiotto and Isabella Modugno, by Carol Christiansen of the pitfalls presented a new project initiated by the encountered in characterising a sheep's Archaeological Studies Group at the fleece solely from the yarns spun from it: a University of Pad ova, which uses more cautious approach is required in archaeological, palaeobotanical and future. Wool has rarely been found in epigraphic evidence to study wool Roman Spain, and Carmen Alfaro Giner production and trade in Roman Venetia. This described a significant group of metal­ last project promises to mcrease replaced fragments from a hoard of late significantly our understanding of the wool Roman farm equipment found in northern industry in ancient Northern Italy. Spain. Equally fragmentary material from a fourth-century grave in Jutland presented Discussion following the sessLOn by Ida Demant opened up questions about demonstrated a wide interest in the topic the nature of the costume represented, while among the field archaeologists and the finds from a late sixth-century grave at necessity of further development of textile Beerlegem (Belgium) included according to studies in Italy. The inclusion of textiles Chris Verhecken-Lammens exotica such as among other crafts at archaeological taquete and a Coptic-style fabric with conferences that cover a wide variety of supplementary weft. Katarzyna Barska topics is a welcome trend, which, hopefully, reported on her recent excavation of an will be continued in the future. The acts of alignment of loomweights in a Roman-Period the Rome conference will be soon published Grubenhaus at Ozar6w Mazowiecki and the by the BAR International Series, . interpretations to which they giVe nse.

Margarita Gleba Early Medieval dress, its character and Bryn Mawr College context claimed the attention of the next

18 ATN 35 , Autumn 2002 four speakers. Marianne Vedeler Nilsen early modern times: Hanne Zimmermann discussed some wool twills from Norway spoke about her jigsaw puzzle, reassembling with vertical pleats; Ulla Mannering looked stockings and hose from a back-filled moat at the costumes represented on the tiny in sixteenth-century Groningen, and Anna wafer-thin gold plaques ( Goldgubber) from Dr?zkowska described work on some Scandinavia, and Antoinette Rast-Eicher curious backless silk funerary dresses from used the surviving textile evidence on seventeeth- and eighteenth-century brooches in Migration-Period graves in eh i Idre ns' graves at Kostryfl on the Oder. Switzerland to distinguish between local Experimental archaeology then took over, population groups. The tantalisingly with papers by Gudrun Bottcher on her fragmentary remains of gold and silver investigation and reconstruction of complex thread ornament in the Ladby ship-burial techniques in naalebinding (Nadelbinding) were examined by Anne Hedeager Krag in and a reconstruction by Barbara Klessig of the light of knowledge of contemporary the Viking honeycomb weave from York . Byzantine finery . The day's work concluded with Milena Bravermanova's review of the On the final day there were just three tenth-century textiles from the reliquary contributions. An analysis of the gold thread casket of the Czech Saint Ludmila treated from a rich Migration-Period grave at recently in the conservation workshops at Lauchheim in South Germany was presented Prague Ca stle. That was not the end of the by Britte Nowak, and Elizabeth Peacock day's events, however; for there followed a discussed her on-going research into the splendid conference dinner given by the post-depositional history of textiles and sponsoring bodies which set the upbeat tone other organic materials in bog conditions. for the rest of the symposium Last but not least, Eva Andersson (Lund) reviewed the place of current textile studies The second day revealed the sheer richness in the wider archaeological perception, and variety of the Medieval textile scene - emphasising the need to raise their profile. and the obtuse nature of some of the relevant sources. Elizabeth Heckett If the success of a conference can be presented a curious tenth-century wool measured by the liveliness of the discussions textile from Ireland which was originally after the papers, NESAT VIII can be highly arrayed with metal appliques; Malgorzata rated; the chairman's problem was to halt Grupa's paper was devoted to a series of rather than stimulate contributions ! eleventh-century twills from Kaldus in western Poland; Susan Moller-Wiering Lodz was a leading discussed finds of rags and animal hair used centre in the nineteenth and early twentieth as caulking in North European shipping; century and many of its attractive cotton Lise Rceder Knudsen revealed how pattern mills together with the 'palaces' of the books lay behind some of the finest entrepreneurs survive today. After the Medieval tablet-woven braids; Eva lectures were over, Dr Maik took the Andersson (Gothenburg) examined the symposiasts to see the town's textile textile information to be gleaned from museum, housed in a well-maintained old Medieval wills and bills of sale. By contrast mill. On the following day a more extensive a multidisciplinary Polish team then reported tour on foot and by coach was arranged to on some of the state-of-the-art techniques visit some of the key groups of industrial which they are developing and deploying to buildings and the sumptuous villas erected solve problems of dye analysis in ancient by their owners, often cheek-by-jowl with textiles. Katarzyna Urban iak-Walczak the mill. In the tranquillity of a sunny May discussed a Cop tic taquete now in Warsaw, morning it was hard to conjure up the and Klaus Tidow presented some new finds noise, bustle and pervasive dust of cotton of loom components from thirteenth­ production in Lodz at its heyday. century Braunschweig. Some fascinating detective work enabled Fabian Peise to The time, effort - and stress - involved in follow the fate of a fifteenth-century conference organisation cannot be embroidered chasuble from its creation in underestimated. Dr Maik and his band of Ll.ibeck until the Reformation. helpers were warmly thanked and congratulated on the smooth running of Two further papers moved forward into NESAT VIII; but their task is not ended

ATN 35, Autumn 2002 19 yet. Speedy publication IS promised. Watch exposition on the possible ongms of the ATN for details. small number of tapestries found in Pharaonic Egypt of the period of c. 1 500 BC. John Peter Wild She raised the question of whether tapestry was a foreign fashion, although the Egyptian word for tapestry, discovered by her in recent research, does not suggest a foreign origin. She examined tapestries from the Tapestry Weaving Technique before 1500, tombs of Tuthmosis IV and Tutankhamun Early Textiles Study Group, Manchester , and others from the tombs of two high 6-8.9.02 officials.

Ten papers were given at the biennial Another excellent paper, on the subject of conference of the ETSG and subjects the use of tapestry weave in Classical included early Peruvian tapestries, Pharaonic antiquity, was presented by Hero Granger­ tapestries, examples from Coptic and Islamic Taylor, an independent scholar, whose Egypt and pieces of non-European origin expertise on the subject of early textiles is found in Europe. Early European tapestries well known. Her great enthusiasm for the and techniques were also discussed . The subject was evident. Amongst areas speakers principally came from the UK but covered by her talk was a discussion of the there were also representatives from France, long history of narrative/pictorial Sweden , Israel and the United States representation in tapestry weaving.

The main guest speaker was Ann Pollard Tapestry is also the best known decorative Rowe from the Textile Museum, Washington technique of Coptic Egypt, but attributing who spoke about a group of tapestry-woven garments and soft furnishings bearing Peruvian textiles. These came from the site tapestry to specific workshops or workshop of Huari in the central highlands of Peru and traditions has proved very difficult. Roberta covered a date range of about AD 650-850. Cortopassi from the Louvre argued cogently She discussed aspects of the techniques for a single workshop origin in the case of a involved, and was particularly interesting on now scattered group of linen tunics the iconography and symbolism of both characterised by having looped on both textiles and the ceramics found alongside sides as well as the tapestry decoration. Her them in burial grounds and the particular paper marks an important step forward. significance of images where no evidence of writing was found. The tapestries included Although there was some dispute about the finely woven interlocked tapestry tunics and origins of two Medieval tapestry-woven headbands. Although Peruvian textiles are textiles found in a reliquary bust of St found in European collections they are much Anastasius (d.304) in Split Cathedral , more numerous and wide ranging in presented in a paper given by Professor collections in the United States and from Anna Muthesius, it was very interesting to this point of view as well as others, the talk see these two previously unknown tapestries was of great interest. (one with gold thread) from Croatia and the context in which they were discovered. The Israel Museum in Jerusalem holds another significant collection of pre­ Professor Margareta Nockert from Uppsala Columbian tapestries from Peru, the University discussed tapestry weave in techniques and iconography of which were Scandinavia from AD 400 to 1200. The discussed by Alisa Baginski, an independent paper dealt with tablet-woven bands from textile consultant from Jerusalem . She the migration period with patterns in a emphasised their essential role in burial 'tapestry-like' technique, narrow pictorial ritual, drawing attention to scenes of human tapestries from the Norwegian Oseberg ship transformation from life through death to burial (AD 834) and the sole surviving the afterlife in which shamans, deities and Medieval tapestry of the late 12th century supernatural beasts and birds appear. from Norway which can be related to Continental tapestry weaves. Rosalind Janssen from University College, London gave a fascinating and lucid The penultimate paper was given by Kay

20 ATN 35 , Autumn 2002 Staniland whose research in the area of Roads, Other Roads' and was inspired by documentary evidence for her lecture the history of the town in which it was held. 'Tapestries in fourteenth-century England' Northampton has an unique history in New had revealed much detailed information England as the site in the 1830s of a craze about the role of tapestries in that period. for cultivating silkworms and later of a She examined the Great Wardrobe accounts considerable silk industry. Several of Edward IT and Richard II which provided organizations in and around Northampton fascinating evidence about what she arranged textile related exhibitions. One describes as 'these lost tapestries', as only a outstanding collection on view at Smith very small number of 14th century College was that of Deborah Garner and Jay European tapestries survive. Information Bommer of Burmese silk textiles; this was a about suppliers, designs, costs etc. made visual treat of the highest order. sense of the context in which tapestries provided status-enhancing hangings for Keynote speeches were given by Francesca kings and princes. Much new information Bray, Professor and Chair of Anthropology, was presented in this paper and I for one, University of California, Santa Barbara, who would like to hear it again . spoke on women as silk weavers in Imperial China; Daryl Hafter, Professor of History, An afternoon visit to the Whitworth Art Eastern Michigan University, who discussed Gallery was organised by Frances Pritchard 'Women, Cloth and Politics in Lyon's (who had also given a short introductory Eighteenth Century Silk Industry' and talk about the textiles), to see tapestries in Madelyn Shaw who , as curator, previewed the collections there from pre-Hispanic Peru the upcoming Smith College Museum of Art and Medieval Islamic Egypt. The Exhibition of 'Silk in New England Society, opportunity to see the wonderful, newly 1730-1930' . The Northampton Silk Project, conserved Tree of Jesse Altar frontal made a study of silk and in this area in Cologne in about AD 1470 was an was discussed in a panel framework. This additional treat. community programme has resulted in exhibitions, a web site, lectures and a The conference provided a forum for the middle school curriculum. discussion of known and unknown areas of early tapestry weave and raised some Among the papers of interest to students of interesting questions. It also gave the archaeological textiles was that by Nettie K. participants and speakers opportunities to Adams on 'Silk in Ancient Nubia: One Road, have informal discussions outside the Many Sources'. Elizabeth Barber presented a context of the lecture hall and to re­ most interesting proposal on the pre-history establish direct links with old colleagues or of band weaving, 'Ribbons Around the Silk make new contacts. Road - Before Silk (Towards a Pre-History of Band Weaving)', exploring how such Linda Woolley finds from the Tarim Basin may be related Victoria and Albert Museum to later Persian silk textiles and to the South Kensington earliest known weaving in Europe and London SW7 2RL UK Turkey. Cynthia Finlayson who has been excavating in Syria discussed 'The Women of Palmyra: Textile Workshops and the Influence of the Silk Trade in Roman Syria'. Textile Society of America: Eighth Biennial Irene Good presented her current research Symposium, Smith College, Northampton, on early archaeological silks from Europe, Mass., 26-28. 9.02 the Mediterranean and South Asia. Her biochemical analyses of silk specimens The eighth Biennial Symposium of TSA took identify the silkmoth species in use, thus place at Smith College Northampton, demonstrating the nature and extent of early Massachusetts from September 26th-28th sericulture. Cathy Ostrom Peters spoke on 2002. About 280 participants joined in the 'The Textiles at Birka: An three day programme of general papers, Examination of the Tabletwoven Bands'. keynote addresses, specially arranged Stephen Wagner presented his work on 'The exhibitions and general discussion sessions. Impact of Silk in Ottonian and Salian The theme of the Symposium was 'Silk Illuminated Manuscripts'; he showed the

ATN 35, Autumn 2002 21 influence that Byzantine silks had on the Helmecke, G., Byzantinische und creators of the manuscripts. He proposed Orientajjsche Seidenstoffe: Grabfunde aus that in the manuscripts two prestigious art der Sepultur der Bamberger Domherren, forms coalesced into innovative and Bamberg Diozesanmuseum, 2001. decorative programmes m manuscript painting. Hofmann, U., 'Zwei koptische Leinentuniken aus den Sammlungen des Badischen Excursions were arranged during and after Landesmuseums Karlsruhe' in: S. Martius, the Symposium. These included walking S. RuB (edd. ), Historische Textijjen: tours of historic Northampton. Since these Beitrage zu ihrer Erhaltung und were on a sunny afternoon in this historic Erforschung, Germanisches Nationalmuseum town they were especially pleasant. Outings Ni..irnberg, 2002, 25-42. to the Museum of Fine Arts and the Gardiner Museum in Boston provided an Kemp, B.J., G. Vogelsang-Eastwood , A. opportunity to savour the textile collections Boyce, H. Fairbrother, G. Owen, P. Rose, of the former, and to enjoy the special The Ancient Textile Industry at Amarna, atmosphere of the latter. We were received EES Excavation Memoir 68, London, 2001 . with heart-warming hospitality wherever we went. Maik, J., 'Welna tkanin wykopaliskowych jako ir6dlo do badafl ras owiec' ('The wool Smith College provided a very special from excavated textiles as a source in atmosphere and backcloth for the research on sheep bones'), Studia i Materialy Symposium. All the staff and students 4/2001, 31 1 -326. involved in running the event were totally committed to ensuring its success. They Makkay , 1., Textile Impressions and Related succeeded brilliantly and the participants Finds of the Early Neolithic Koros Culture commented on how easy it was to share in Hungary, J. Makkay, 2001 . common interests and concerns. The two Symposium eo-chairs, Pam Parmal and Martius, S., S. RuB (edd.), Historische Marjorie Senechal, had put an enormous Textilien: Beitrage zu ihrer Erhaltung und amount of work into planning and Erforschung, Germanisches Nationalmuseum organization so that the gathering was very Nurnberg , 2002. successful, and earned the thanks of everyone who attended. Rogers, P.W., 'Textiles' in: P.M. Stead , 'Archaeological investigations at Tavistock Elizabeth Wincott Heckett Abbey 1997-1 999', Devon Archaeological Department of Archaeology Society Proceedings 57, 1999, 149-203, NUJ Cork Ireland esp. 184- 1 90.

Rogers, P.W., 'Gold thread' im M. Hicks, A. Hicks, Archaeology of Canterbury NS JJ: So-urce Jlvlat:erials St. Gregory's Priory, Northgate, Canterbury: Excavations 1988-1991, Recent Publications Canterbury, 2001, 284-287.

Bacharach, J.L. (ed.), Fustat Finds: Beads, Rogers, P. W., 'Textiles' in: I. Roberts, Coins, Medical Instruments, Textiles and Pontefract Castle: Archaeological other Artifacts fr om the A wad Collection, Excavations 1982-86, Yorkshire American University in Cairo, 2002. Archaeology 8, Wakefield 2002, 308-314.

Dreyspring, B., 'Textiltechnische Schrenk, S., 'Die "topographischen" Friesen Untersuchungen an einer fruhchristlichen auf den Behangfragmenten mit Danielszene Sarkophagbestattung aus St. Maximin in und Petruszene in Berlin' in: Hairesis: Trier' in : S. Martius, S. RuB (edd.), Festschrift fur Karl Hoheisel zum 65. Historische Textilien: Beitrage zu ihrer Geburtstag, Jahrbuch fi..ir Antike und Erhaltung und Erforschung, Germanisches Christentum Erganzungsband 34, MUnster, Nationalmuseum Ni..irnberg, 2002, 9-24. 2002, 72-83 .

22 ATN 35, Autumn 2002 Shamir, 0., A. Baginski, 'Textiles and MUller, Mechthild, Die Kleidung nach Cordage from 'Avdat - the Cave of the Quellen des fruhen Mittelalters, Textilien Saints', 'Atiqot 42, 2001 , 243-260. und Mode von Karl dem GroBen bis Heinrich Ill, Reallexikon der Germanischen Shamir, 0., A. Baginski, 'Medieval Altertumskunde, Erganzungsbande 33, Mediterranean textiles, basketry and cordage Berlin + New York 2002, 337 Seiten, newly excavated in Israel' in: Y. Lev, Towns Glossar, 20 Tafeln auf Kunstdruckpapier mit and Material Culture in the Medieval Middle 80 Abbildungen, davon 40 in Farbe, ISBN East, Leiden, 2002. 3- 11-01 7219-4

Sipos, E., M. Dagi, 'Report on the Ziel des Buches ist es, das bisher conservation of Coptic textiles in the unerforschte Thema der Kleidung der Department of Greek and Roman Antiquities Menschen in den Jahren zwischen 750 und (1999-2000)' , Bulletin du Musee Hongrois 1050 auf der Basis der literarischen, des Beaux-Arts 94, 2001 , 65-82. bildlichen, archaologischen QuellenUberlieferung und unter Spies, N., Here be Wyverns: Hundreds of Berticksichtigung praktischer Dberlegungen Patterns Graphed from Medieval Sources, aufzuarbeiten . Katharina Colberg Arelate Studio, 2002. (His torisches Seminar, Hannover) tibersetzte die mittellateinischen Texte moglichst Sumner, G., Roman Military Clothing 1: 100 wortgetreu und unter strikter Beachtung der BC - AD 200, Oxford , 2002. Fachausdrticke. So konnten viele neue Einsichten gewonnen werden. Die Arbeit Tidow, K., 'Tuchherstellung in NeumUnster gliedert sich in sechs Teile. Im ersten Teil von der Mitte des 17. bis zur Mitte des 19. wird der aktuelle Forschungsstand Jahrhunderts. Informationen aus den behandelt. Die Bearbeitung der AmtsbUchern der NeumUnsteraner kostUmgeschichtlichen Literatur ergab, dass Tuchmacher' in: K-J. Lorenzen-Schmidt sich die Ansichten, die Mode sei zwischen (ed .), Quantitat und Qualitiit: Moglichkeiten dem 8. und dem Beginn des 11. und Grenzen historisch-statisticher Jahrhunderts verhaltnismaBig konstant Methoden fur die Analyse vergangener geblieben, auf Untersuchungsergebnisse aus Gesellschaften. Festschrift far Ingwer E. der zweiten Halfte des 19. Jahrhunderts Momsen zum 65. Geburtstag, NeumUnster, stUtzen . Die Analyse hat gezeigt, dass 2002, 93-103. damals benutzte Text- und Bildquellen zeitlich nicht zueinander passten und es Vicari, F., Produzione e commercia dei deshalb zu falschen Zuordnungen kommen tessuti nell'Occidente romano, British musste. Archaeological Reports S916, Oxford , 2001 . Der nachste Teil stellt die verschiedenen Quellen vor. Dber 2000 zeitgenossische Vogelsang-Eastwood , G.M., An Bilder wurden untersucht; erwahnt werden Introduction to Qajar Era Dress, Rotterdam, im Text Illustrationen aus 88 Handschriften 2002. und 24 Einzelobjekte, die Entscheidendes zur Losung anstehender Fragen beitragen von Eles, P. (ed.), Guerriero e sacerdote. konnen. Es gibt viele Bilder, die bei groBer Autoritii e communitii nell'etii del ferro a Obereinstimmung mit literarischen Quellen, Verucchio. La Tomba del Trono, Firenze, eine RealiUitsbezogenheit vermuten lassen. 2002. (Textiles by A. Stauffer, L.R. So konnte ich nachweisen, dass die Form Knudsen). der als singularer Fund erhaltenen Viborg­ Tunika mit einem zeitgenossischen Bild und Wild, J .P., 'Textiles et activites relatives au einer zeitgleichen Schriftquelle textile sur le monument d'Igel', Annales de Ubereinstimmt. Als wichtig stellte sich L'Est, 2001 (2), 83-92. heraus, die Bilder im Kontext zu betrachten : historisierend gemeinte Arbeiten dtirfen Wild , J.P. , 'The Textile Industries of Roman nicht als unmittelbare Quellen verstanden Britain', Britannia 33, 2002, 1-42. werden und Bildwerke aus ottonischer Zeit konnen eine Symbolsprache mit doppelbodiger Realitat beinhalten. Beides

ATN 35 , Autumn 2002 23 wird anhand von Beispielen erlautert. Eine Untersuchungszeitraurn deutlich andern. In Vielzahl von Hinweisen wurden in den karolingischer Zeit ist eine Anderung Literaturquellen zurn Thema Kleidung innerhalb eines Zeitrahmens von 20 Jahren gefunden. Neben Personenbeschreibungen abiesbar . Dagegen ist eine ahnliche und vollstandigen Kleiderlisten sind es Entwicklung in ottonischer Zeit im verstreut in den Texten vorkommende Augenblick nicht nachzuvollziehen, denn die Bemerkungen , die zu einem besseren neuen Diskussionen urn die Datierung der Verstandnis in Fragen der Mode beitragen . Handschriften und Objekte verlaufen zu Ferner geht die Autorin darauf ein, dass es gegensatzlich; hier bleibt nur eine generelle kaum archaologische Textilfunde aus dieser Beschreibung der inzwischen deutlich Periode gibt; in Fragen der technologischen veranderten Silhouetten der Tuniken. Auch Entwicklung ist davon auszugehen, dass die Frauenrnode bringt Neues, vor allern der vorhandene Kenntnisse weiterhin genutzt Formenreichtum der Armelrnoden lasst den wurden. Deshalb werden Randgebiete des Betrachter staunen. Alles dies macht die Reiches einbezogen und Funde der Auswertung hoch interessant. Die vorangehenden Zeit rnit erwahnt. Untersuchung der Herrschertuniken zeigt, dass es sich hierbei urn politisch motivierte Ein wichtiger Teil der Arbeit befasst sich Kleidung handelt; dies wird auch in den mit der Vorstellung der KleidungsstUcke und Originaltexten imrner wieder betont und den Tragegewohnheiten: dies wird im begrtindet. Einzelnen in den Kapiteln zur Manner-, Frauen-, Kinder-, Monchs- und Weiter befasste sich die Autorin mit Klerikerkleidung erlautert. Ludwig der historischen Fakten . Das frankische Reich, Fromrne setzte 816 eine Dreistandeordnung das sich von Friesland bis Stiditalien, von innerhalb seines Reiches durch, nach der die der AtlantikkUste bis zur Elbe erstreckte, ist Bevolkerung in die Stande der Kleriker, nicht isoliert zu sehen . Angehorige Monche und Laien unterteilt werden sollte romischer Senatorenfamilien mit Besitz in und Ludwig verfUgte, dass sie sich in ihrer Gallien waren in den frankischen Adel Kleidung unterscheiden mussten. Urn die Ubergewechselt. Wollene Umhange ftir das Jahrtausendwende wurden der Kleriker- und frankische Heer kamen aus Mercia und Monchsstand zurn Stand der Betenden Fries land , FernhandelsstraBen und zusammengefasst und der Laienstand wurde Wasserwege fiihrten bis nach China. Irische unterteilt in den Stand der Krieger und der und angelsachsische Missionare und Gelehrte Arbeiter. Wahrend sich die Zweiteilung des unterwiesen in ihren Bildungsanstalten Laienstandes bis urn 1050 in keiner Angehorige der Herrscherschichten, Monche Kleiderordnung bemerkbar machte, anderte besuchten agyptische Kloster oder reisten in sich der Habit der Monche und wurde dern das heilige Land. Da die Kloster eigene der Kleriker sehr ahnlich. Aus Aachen (816) Wirtschaftsorganismen waren , blieben ihre und Farfa (kurz nach 1000) sind genaue Abte auch offen fiir Fragen nach technischen Vorschriften erhalten, die das im Einzelnen Innovationen. In ottonischer Zeit wurden beurkunden. Die MaBangaben in Farfa (es diese Kontakte noch verstarkt. orientierte sich an Cluny) arbeiten mit Untersuchungen der Urbare aus Fulda, Finger-, Daumen- und einem dreiteiligen Werden, Prlirn und der Notitia de Areis von EllenrnaB, denn jeder Monch sollte Saint-Maur-des-Fosses brachten sehr passgenaue Kleidung tragen. Ein bisher interessante Ergebnisse Uber das opus textile vermuteter Trachtgegensatz zwischen den der Handwerkerinnen bzw. der Arbeit in den beiden Reformrichtungen Gorze und Cluny einzelnen Haushalten. Die praxisnahen konnte widerlegt werden . Allein der Kaiser Kapitel Uber Rohstoffe, Farben , Weben, scheint sich nun sowohl dern Stand der Webhauser und Webstiihle sollen auch Beter wie dern der Krieger zurechnen zu Vertreter anderer Disziplinen Uber die wollen. Mit der offiziellen EinfUhrung der damals bekannten Resourcen und Techniken langen Tunika in den Konigsornat Ubernahm informieren. Das Kapitel Uber die er fUr seine Person die Tunika der Kleriker, Zuschneidekunst, Nahtechniken und mit der clamis (sagurn) blieb er dem Rekonstruktionsversuche zeigt die Kriegerstand verbunden . Bandbreite der zur Verfugung stehenden Moglichkeiten und widerlegt die Vorstellung Eigene Kapitel sind den Tuniken gewidrnet, einer nicht zugeschnittenen, sackartigen die sich, wie die Bilder verdeutlichen , im Kleidung.

24 ATN 35, Autumn 2002 Kleidung spielt heute eine anerkannte Rolle Rather than concentrating on specific areas fUr unsere Identitat wte bei unseren or techniques, broad topics will be viewed Beziehungen zu den Mitmenschen . Dies from as many different aspects as possible. wurde von der Bevolkerung im frUhen Key speakers will be Lise Bender J0rgensen Mittelalter genau so gesehen und erlebt, (Trondheim University), John Peter Wild auch dies ist ein Ergebnis der (Manchester University), Eva Andersson Untersuchungen. Es gilt fUr die Laien, die (Lund University), Lise Raeder Knudsen keine Beschrankungen durch (Vej le Amts Konservering, Denmark), John Kleiderordnungen kannten, wie fUr die Killen (Jesus College, Cambridge) and Monche und Kleriker, die bewusst damit Elisabeth Barber (Occidental College, lebten. California). For further details, contact Marie-Louise N osch, N ye land svej 71, st. Mit diesem Buch sollte in erster Linie em th. , 2000 Frederiksberg, Denmark. GesamtUberblick vorgelegt werden. In < [email protected]> after Zukunft mtissen vorhandene LUcken 1.1.03. geschlossen und Details verandert oder erganzt werden . Das kann nur auf breiter Conference website: Diskussionsgrundlage geschehen und die http: //www .lu. se/klass/textiles Autorin mochte alle Interessierten einladen , sich an dieser Aufgabe zu beteiligen .

Mechthild Muller Tales in the Textile : The Conservation of Schumacherstr. 42 Flags and Other Symbolic Textiles: North D-30826 Garbsen American Textile Conservation Conference Germany 2003. 23-25. 1 0.03, Albany, NY, USA.

Call for Papers

Textiles have served many functions, from practical to decorative to symbolic. Symbolic News m Brief textiles can present unusual preservation challenges in their treatment, handling or display. The fourth biennial North American Ancient Textiles: Production, Craft and Textile Conservation Conference will focus Society: 19-23.3.03, Lund and Copenhagen. on textiles as symbols - whether it be as patriotic, cultural or religious emblems, or The above conference, organised jointly by as signs of wealth or status. Marie-Louise Nosch (Institute of Aegean Prehistory), Ulla Mannering (Copenhagen Conservators, curators, conservation University), Eva Andersson (Lund scientists and others working with these University), Brendan Burke (American textiles are invited to submit proposals for School at Athens) and Carole Gillis (Lund presentations on topics that may include : University), will take place in Lund, Sweden conservation treatments (past, present (19-21.3.03) and Copenhagen, Denmark and/or under development), analysis, and/or (22-23.3.03). It will cover textiles from the conservation, curatorial and management Neolithic period to the Middle Ages, issues raised by the preservation of such concentrating primarily on Europe, but also textiles. One day of this symposium will including the Near East and the New World. focus on the conservation of flags. Its aim, bringing together scholars from different disciplines working with textiles, As always for NATCC symposia, papers is to increase our knowledge of textile recognizing the collaboration needed for technology and industry on a regional and textile preservation are particularly global basis, comparing the southern welcomed . Papers are also solicited for a European tradition of textile research based session on new developments in the field of largely on documentary and iconographic textile conservation. These papers need not evidence with that of northern Europe based be relevant to the main conference theme. upon surviving textile and clothing remains.

ATN 35, Autumn 2002 25 Abstracts up to 250 word s in length must be submitted by November 1, 2002. Proposals for posters should also be submitted by this date.

Speakers will be notified by Dece mber 15, 2002 if their submissions are accepted. Papers, which will be published by NATCC as pre-prints and made available for general sale after the conference, will be due by July 1, 2003. All submissions should consist of the speaker's name, address, e -mail address, telephone and fax numbers, a short one­ paragraph biography, the title of the submission and a 250 word abstract. If possible, submit abstracts via e-mail (with abstracts attached in RTF format). Paper submissions will be given equal consideration.

Submit abstracts to: Susan Schmalz: or at: Conservation Center, Los Angeles County Museum of Art, 5905 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90036 USA.

For all other que stions or information about the 2003 North American Textile Conservation Conference contact Deborah Trupin:

< Deborah. Trupin@oprhp. state. ny. us>

26 ATN 35, Autumn 2002 4. Please send submissions in hard-copy, typed, form (lines not justified). (An Subscription accompanying disk in Word would be welcomed .) References should be in the ATN has a 2-year subscription term (4 Harvard system (eg Smith 1990), with issues). Subscription rate is £20 (private bibliography at the end. individual) and £30 (institution) per term . 5. Line drawings and photographs are Subscription payment should be sent to: accepted, but must be originals of high reproduction quality . Artwork should not be Felicity Wild mounted or incorporated into text. 30 Prince's Road Captions, please ! Heaton Moor Stockport SK4 3NQ 6. The Editorial Board reserves the right to United Kingdom suggest alterations in the wording of manuscripts sent for publication. Payment is accepted in pounds sterJjng (£) Payment must be made in the form of a Submissions should be addressed to: international bank cheque or draft and should be made payable to: J . P . Wild - John Peter Wild ATN. (NB: Eurocheques in £ sterling are no 30 Prince's Road longer accepted in the UK.) Alternatively, Heaton Moor payment may be made in Euros to: J.P.Wild Stockport SK4 3NQ - ATN. (Eurocheques drawn in Euros are United Kingdom acceptable.) (tel: ( +44) (0)161 432 2460)

Guidelines for Authors Disclaimer The Archaeological Textiles Newsletter aims to provide a source of information relating The views expressed by authors in articles to all aspects of archaeological textiles. printed in the Archaeological Textiles Archaeological textiles from both prehistoric Newsletter are not necessarily those of the and historic periods and from all parts of Editorial Board , and are the responsibility the world are covered in the A TN s range of solely of the individual contributors. interests. Copyright 1. Contributions can be in English , German or French. Copyright in text remains with the individual authors. Copyright in artwork remains with 2. Contributions may include announcements the originating source. and reviews of exhibitions, seminars, conferences, special courses and lectures, information relating to current projects and The Archaeological Textiles Newsletter is any queries concerning the study of published at the Ancient Textile Unit in the archaeological textiles. Bibliographical University of Manchester. information on new books and articles 1s particularly welcome. Editorial Board: L. Bender J0rgensen, E.Wincott Heckett, J . Banck-Burgess, 3. Accounts of work in progress. This J.P.Wild general category includes research/activities related to archaeological textiles from recent Editor: John Peter Wild excavations or in museums/galleries. Editorial Assistant: Felicity Wild Projects may encompass technology and analysis, experimental archaeology, Publication dates: twice yearly, Spring and documentation, exhibition, conservation and Autumn. storage. These contributions can be in the form of notes or longer feature articles. lSSN 0169-7331