WALKING THROUGH LANDSCAPE PROGRAMME 3: THE SEA

Reproduced by permission of Ordnance Survey on behalf of HMSO. © Crown copyright and database right 2010. All rights reserved. Ordnance Survey Licence number 100019855 1 West shore 5 Council Houses with a difference 9 East Shore

2 Breakwater 6 Golf course Key:

3 Harbour 7 Billow Ness Walk route 4 St Fillan's Cave 8 Anstruther Wester Graveyard

This walk takes you between the fishing villages of Pittenweem and Anstruther in the of . As you walk, you'll discover the life along the shores of the Forth, and how this area has been shaped by its proximity to the sea. 1. West shore, Pittenweem Your walk starts on the much-photographed West Shore of Pittenweem, by a pretty row of red-roofed cottages. Pittenweem prospered from the 16th century onwards, thanks to the wealth brought by the fishing trade. Walk along, to the end of the row, to a breakwater where cobblestones meet pink sandstone, and you can walk along towards the sea.

2. Breakwater If the water levels will let you, venture down to the point the seaweed squelches underfoot. Even here, there is lots of plant and animal life. It's WEST SHORE been said that this is where the sea really starts - when the Forth opens out in front of you. From here, walk past the Fishmarket, to the harbour.

3. Pittenweem Harbour Of all the East Neuk fishing villages, Pittenweem is the only one which still has a working harbour. You can watch the prawn and lobster boats coming in and out here, and if you're up early enough in the morning, see the fishmarket in action. But the number of boats here is much diminished - it's said you could walk across the harbour from one end to the other just stepping over the boats. Today, with no white fish left in BREAKWATER the Forth, the fleet numbers just 30. 4. St Fillan's Cave From the harbour, head up Cove Wynd to the cave. Pittenweem means "place of the cave" - and this cave, once used by smugglers to hide their goods, is the spot which gave it its name. The key is kept by a local cafe.

5. Council Houses with a difference From the cave, return to the harbour, and take the road that heads uphill on its east side. Follow the signs for the to a grassy area in front of some 1950s housing. Look out yardarms on the front of the buildings - when these houses were built, it was assumed the PITTENWEEM HARBOUR tenants would be fishermen, who would need them for hauling their nets.

6. Golf course Walk along the coast in the direction of ST FILLAN’S CAVE Anstruther. Out to sea lies the , famed for its religious history, and its wildlife. As you walk, you'll pass the golf course, much of which sits well above the current shore line, on land which was once at sea level.

7. Billow Ness Once you've passed most of the golf course, at a point where the path becomes tarmac, you'll reach a rocky headland, Billow Ness. There are the remains of an old swimming pool in the sheltered area behind the rocks, and the headland itself was quarried to build the harbour wall in Anstruther.

8. Graveyard of Anstruther Wester Parish Church, and the Buckie House GOLF COURSE PATH From Billow Ness, walk past the beach and the golf clubhouse, and along Shore Road. Turn left, then take a right onto the High Street. On a busy corner is the Buckie House - adorned with sea shells, and the Anstruther Wester Parish Church. In the graveyard here you can see the graves of many of Anstruther's great sailing captains.

9. Anstruther East Shore and marina From the church, there are two ways to Anstruther harbour. You can follow the road over the bridge and turn right down to the waterfront, or if the tide is low and you are comfortable doing so, you can take the small BILLOW NESS road that leads down to the water - the Esplanade - and cross the Dreel burn via a set of stepping stones. Either way, you should reach the busy marina at the heart of the town. The harbour is now home to yachts and recreational craft, and is indicative of the town's move from a fishing port to a tourist centre.

To return to Pittenweem from Anstruther, you can retrace your steps, or there are regular bus services between the two towns.

Download audio version at: http://www.bbc.co.uk/podcasts/series/landscape

The BBC 's Landscape maps are intended as a guide only. The BBC takes no responsibility for any accident or injury that may occur while following the route.

STEPPING STONES, DREEL BURN BUCKIE HOUSE AND PARISH CHURCH