SEWING INSTRUCTIONS GEISHA TOP FI04006 TABLE OF CONTENTS
METHODOLOGY ...... 3
Symbology ...... 3 Suggested equipment ...... 4 Things you need ...... 5 Pattern pieces ...... 6 Sewing technology ...... 7 How to read instructions ...... 10
SEWING ...... 11
1. Pocket ...... 11 2. Side seams ...... 17 3. Back slit ...... 18 4. Front slit and hemline ...... 21 5. Shoulder seams ...... 23 6. Back neckline ...... 24 7. Sleev ...... 29
GLOSSARY ...... 33
Geisha top FI04006 Page 2 Table of contents METHODOLOGY SYMBOLOGY
PATTERN MARKINGS
SEWING LINE CUTTING L INE
CENTER LINE FOLD L INE
PLACEMENT LINE GRAINLINE
GATHER STRETCH
BUTTONHOLE BUTTONHOLE
BUTTON PLA CEMENT NOTCH
SEAM STRUCTURE
INTERFACING FABRIC
ZIPPER SERGE
CENTER LINE SERGER STITCH
SEWING LINE FOLD L INE
Geisha top METHODOLOGY FI04006 Page 3 Symbology SUGGESTED EQUIPMENT
Sewing machine Iron Sewing Board Serger
Universal foot Overedge foot Serger foot Edge stitching Foot
Dressmaking Sewing needle for Seam ripper Rotary cutter shears hand stitch
9
8
7 3 6
5
4 2
3
2 1 1
Thread snips Tailors chalk; Bobbins Ruler soap or fabric pen
3” 4 8
3” 1” 1” 1
1 4 2
1 8
1” 1”
4 1”
8 5”
Tape measure Pins Seam gauge Machine needle
Geisha top METHODOLOGY FI04006 Page 4 Suggested equipment THINGS YOU NEED
• Fabric • Sewing thread • Sewing needle / Universal • Serger threads • Fusible interfacing • Staystitch tape
The approximate minimum and maximum amount of fabric
BODY MEASUREMENTS cm
BODY HEIGHT cm
N I BUST cm cm M HIP cm
BODY HEIGHT cm X
A BUST cm 98. cm M HIP cm
Recommended fabrics:
FABRIC TYPE g ELASTANE % Challis Medium 0-3 % Gabardine /6oz - 8oz (204g - 272g)/ Charmeuse Medium Heavy Rayon Challis /8oz - 10oz (272g - 339g)/ Linen Blends Shirtings
Geisha top METHODOLOGY FI04006 Page 5 Things you need PATTERN PIECES
ABA
A B AB
BA
AA C
TOP FABRIC PIECES
Front Le A Front Right B Back C Pocket AB Pocket Flap ABA Sleeve Cu Le AA Sleeve Cu Right BA
* Depending on the width of your fabric and on your body measurements, if your pattern pieces do not the width of the fabric, you will need to divide them and make an additional cut line.
Geisha top METHODOLOGY FI04006 Page 6 Pattern pieces SEWING TECHNOLOGY
Fabric key
Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of fabric fabric lining lining interfacing interfacing
Interfacing placement on garment
Laying out and cutting fabric
selvage
bias grain
cross grain selvage
lengthwise grain
Fabric grainlines: lengthwise; crosswise; bias grains.
Geisha top METHODOLOGY FI04006 Page 7 Sewing technology =” =”
1. Place the patterns on a single layer of fabric. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. 2. Place the right side of the fabric facing down on the table. 3. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. All pattern grainlines are placed parallel to the selvage of the fabric. 4. When the fabric is delicate and slippery, draw or pin the patterns onto a layer of pattern paper.
Cutting the fabric. Snipping notches. Notches snipped in the fabric should be no longer than 1/8” (3 mm) in length. Mark dart points and matchpoints.
Fuse the interfacing to the fabric: Place the resin side of the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric. Press the interfacing to the fabric by using heat, steam and pressure. To fuse, start on one edge, place the iron straight down, lean in, and add pressure for 20 seconds. Check the bonding by trying to peel the interfacing away from one corner of the fabric. The fusing should be secure. Let the fused fabric cool down. A er fusing, the interfacing and fabric will be stitched as one piece of fabric.
Geisha top METHODOLOGY FI04006 Page 8 Sewing technology ABA
AA
BA
Place the patterns on a single layer of the fabric + interfacing. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. Cut the fabric.
Fuse the stay stape to the front neckline.
Geisha top METHODOLOGY FI04006 Page 9 Sewing technology HOW TO READ INSTRUCTIONS
SERGE
action
Finishing the side seams.
PLACE 1.2
Place and pin the side seams with the right sides together. Match the notches and raw edges.
SEW 1.3
Sew the side seams.
Geisha top METHODOLOGY FI04006 Page 10 How to read instructions
BY PURCHASING A SEWING PATTERN,
YOU GET A COMPREHENSIVE SEWING
AND TECHNICAL INSTRUCTION
Thank you, Fayma Team