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22 Harper's Magazine / August 2019 22 Harper's 22 HARPER’SHARPER’S MAGAZINE MAGAZINE / AUGUST / AUGUST 2019 2019 Conover Folio Final 15.indd 22 6/18/19 2:54 PM 06182019144028 FOLIO THE LAST FRONTIER Homesteaders on the margins of America By Ted Conover he San Luis Valley in southern picture the indigenous people who TColorado still looks much as it carved inscriptions into rocks near the did one hundred, or even two rivers, or the Hispanic people who hundred, years ago. Blanca Peak, at established Colorado’s oldest town, 14,345 feet the fourth-highest summit San Luis, and a still-working system of in the Rockies, overlooks a vast open- communal irrigation in the southeast- ness. Blanca, named for the snow that ern corner, or a pioneer wagon train. covers its summit most of the year, is (Feral horses still roam, as do prong- visible from almost everywhere in the horn antelope and the occasional valley and is considered sacred by the mountain lion.) Navajo. The range that Blanca pre- It’s also not hard to picture oneself sides over, the Sangre de Cristo, forms as a homesteader. The land is not free the valley’s eastern side. Nestled up but it is cheap—some of the cheapest against the range just north of Blanca in the United States. In many re- is Great Sand Dunes National Park. spects, a person could live here in this The park is an amazement: winds from vast, empty space like the pioneers the west and southwest lift grains of did on the Great Plains—except sand from the grasses and sagebrush you’d have a truck instead of a mule, of the valley and deposit the finest and some solar panels, possibly even ones, creating gigantic dunes. You can a cell-phone signal. And legal weed. climb up these dunes and run back If you are on disability or receive down, as I did as a child on a family veterans’ benefits, you might even get road trip and I repeated with my own by without having a job, though if you children fifteen years ago. The valley have no income, things can get tricky, tapers to a close down in New Mexico, especially when winter comes around. a little north of Taos. It is not hard to att Little knows the hard- Ted Conover is the author of Newjack: ships of living in the valley Guarding Sing Sing and the director of the M firsthand. He grew up one Arthur L. Carter Journalism Institute at New York University. His last article of eight kids in Weirton, a former for Harper’s Magazine, “Cattle Calls,” steel- mill town in West Virginia, saw appeared in the October 2015 issue. combat in Operations Desert Shield The crossroads of Grant Avenue and MM 14th Street, with Blanca Peak in the distance, San Luis Valley, Colorado (detail). All photographs from Colorado, May 2019, by Lisa Elmaleh for Harper’s MagazineFOLIO © The artist 23 Conover Folio Final 18.indd 23 6/19/19 5:43 PM 06192019165404 and Desert Storm, and then in 2013 lost home. But they also moved around. [garbage truck]. Pushin’ a broom at the his wife to C.O.P.D. and their house to “We did a lot of free camping on Lake grocery is honorable.” And then one a fire. He decided it was time to start a Como Road, off of 150, Smith Reser- morning in March, as he approached a new life. He knew about Colorado from voir, Mountain Home Reservoir. We general store in the little town of Blanca, sportsmen’s magazines such as Field & stayed at the trailer park [in Blanca]. I he saw Calvin Moreau, a formerly Stream and, from googling “cheap land was considered homeless, but I didn’t homeless person working for a group Colorado,” had an idea that the San consider myself homeless—I didn’t see called La Puente, affixing a posting for Luis Valley might be a good place to us as that bad off.” In October, Matt a job to a bulletin board. The flyer read: settle. Among his many skills was food bought a camper for the bed of the “Do you live in this area? La Puente’s preparation (he had managed a Pon- pickup, which allowed them to sleep Rural Outreach Services is in search of derosa Steakhouse) and, en route to a indoors instead of outside in a tent. It a case manager. No experience neces- food- service job at Adams State Univer- was starting to get very cold at night, sary. Military Service a plus. Requires sity in Alamosa— the biggest town in and winter temperatures in the San great communication skills.” the valley— he headed west in his Ford Luis Valley can drop to negative fifty “He was the first one to call,” says F-150 with his grown son, a paranoid degrees Fahrenheit. Judy McNeilsmith, La Puente’s director schizophrenic, in the passenger seat. But Matt, a jack-of-all-trades, could of program services. “And maybe more It was early 2016. To save money for find only odd jobs. It was not for lack of important, he was the first one to an- the land he hoped to buy, they essen- trying. His attitude toward work is: swer when I started calling some of tially lived out of Matt’s pickup truck. “Every job is honorable. I spent five them back. Being reachable is very im- From March to October, that was their years throwin’ trash in a side-loader portant for this job.” She and her boss, Lance Cheslock, La Puente’s longtime director, liked other parts of Matt’s background, too, including that he was a veteran and lived in the valley and was eager. Two months after hiring him, they agreed to let me accompany Matt as he did outreach on the flats—La Puente’s term for the interior of the San Luis Valley, lightly populated prairie lands outside towns and between the mountain ranges. I’m originally from Colorado, but people like Matt and his neighbors were unfamiliar to me. I know about moun- tain towns, and the national parks and forests that support the tourist economy, and I know a bit about ranching. But the expansive San Luis Valley—about the size of Massachusetts, nearly 8,000 acres— is different. Much of it is pri- vately owned and for sale as small, af- fordable lots. Poor people can become homesteaders of a sort. The poverty rate in the valley is between 20 and 25 per- cent. The election of Donald Trump had made me feel ignorant of the poor rural parts of my home state. And the kind of off-grid living practiced there went against my preconceived notions about off-grid living. In my mind, most off- gridders were trying to live lightly off the earth by reducing their needs, unplug- ging from both utilities and society’s expectations of achievement. The up- scale among them embraced things like the Taos-based Earthships, often expen- sive, fancifully designed houses that incorporate advanced technologies to recycle water and control indoor cli- mate. I imagined the less affluent among 24 HARPER’S MAGAZINE / AUGUST 2019 Matt Little preparing to deliver firewood to homesteaders in the San Luis Valley Conover Folio Final 15.indd 24 6/18/19 2:54 PM 06182019144029 them as neo- hippies with environmental near a coast but more probably came pickup truck, I saw that his shirt was consciousness: into the virtue of not from the heartland, many from the maroon. “I told Lance it couldn’t be needing much and appreciating the cre- South. And most were very poor. The those other colors, and we settled on ative reuse of discarded materials, com- San Luis Valley, with its cheap land, was this.” The outside of the truck was cov- munalism, tiny houses, and outsider art. a sort of magnet for these off- gridders. ered with mud; the inside was blanketed Some of the valley’s off- gridders were There were a few hundred of them in with dust and smelled of cigarettes. like this. But more of them were just total. Nationwide there are probably He’d already been to the local poor and wanted a different life—one several thousand people living off the spring to fill his water tank, a chore with more self-reliance, fewer bills, and, grid. No authoritative numbers exist, but he performed daily just past dawn. in many cases, lots of distance from off-grid life seems to be growing, often Now that he had a job, Matt had neighbors. They arrived pulling trailers in states with cheap land (Tennessee, rented a small place on the prairie for or with old R.V.s and set up camp. Some- Kentucky, Missouri), sunshine and himself and his son, but, like most times they would build something, but cheap land (Nevada, Arizona, Texas), homes in this part of the valley, often the trailer became the building and/or frontier appeal (Alaska, Idaho). Matt’s house lacked running water. block, with shacks or Tuff Sheds added We filled the 275- gallon cubical plas- on. They drove Fords, not Toyotas. Their att and I talked on the tic tank in the bed of Matt’s truck, political views tended toward the Mphone the night before we drove a half hour back to his house Trumpian: anti government, pro-gun, first went out: Don’t wear to drop off the water, and then set off America- first, build-the-wall. Among tan or blue, he advised me, as those are on the day’s outreach rounds.
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