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NATURE AND ENVIRONMENT NATURE AND ENVIRONMENT

In addition to the huge array of possible to have every season in ancient and more recent monu- one day! The combination of ments, has a rich and constantly changing weather interesting natural environment. and changes in day length make The combination of fertile farm- for a huge variety of lighting land with the various other habi- conditions which makes Orkney tats makes it a very good place a paradise for artists, photogra- for wildlife, and especially birds. phers and lovers of the land- There are cliffs, marshes, moors scape in all seasons. Thus there and maritime heath as well as is no “best” time to visit. sheltered bays, small islands and lochs, all of which attract a vari- Skipi Geo and the Brough of There are many good locations Hen Harrier (Katabelly) ety of different species, depend- for observing wildlife, including ing on the season and weather. several RSPB Reserves. During the summer many thousands of The many superb beaches and birds breed in Orkney, and the dramatic cliffs also provide cliff colonies of seabirds are wonderful opportunities for especially impressive at walking. Whether just a stroll Marwick Head in Birsay, and along the Bay of Skaill or Noup Head on . Both Aikerness after visiting Skara Grey and Common Seals also Brae or the Broch of Gurness, or breed in Orkney. one of the many more adventur- ous walks, Orkney will never Maritime Heath, for example, Marwick Head has dramatic high cliffs Baby Grey Seal (Selkie) fail to please. The islands are on Papay and on is a great for cycling too, as the hills favourite nesting site for Terns are not steep, and the roads quiet. and Arctic Skuas. The Heather Moorland on the hills is home to The predominant daytime Hen Harrier, Merlin and Short- colours in Orkney are the eared Owl as well as many greens, blues and browns of species of waders, with particu- grass, water and moor. These larly large numbers of Curlew colours vary with the season and and Oystercatcher. are particularly vibrant in sum- mer, but more muted in other Orkney is also well situated to seasons. Orkney is also famous see migrants and winter visitors for its sunsets and for its long Whitemill Bay, Sanday such as the Great Northern Atlantic Puffin (Tammy Norie) hours of daylight in summer. Stoneyhill, Diver, Long-tailed Duck, Primula scotica - unique to Orkney, and Sutherland The Northern Lights are occa- Goldeneye, Iceland Gull and sionally seen, usually on a dark, other species. The harbours at moonless winter night. and are both good places to look for The Orkney climate is much gulls and sea ducks, while the influenced by the sea, which lochs of and Harray in varies in temperature by only a the vicinity of the Standing few degrees over the year. This Stones are excellent places to see ensures that winters are mild, but wildfowl in all seasons. that summers are never hot. The weather is very variable, and it is

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NATURE AND ENVIRONMENT GEOLOGY

Having been heavily glaciat- ed during the last Ice Age, the landscape is of smooth rolling hills, and shallow sounds and bays. Since the ice receded about 13,000 years ago, rising sea level has flooded the area to form the present landscape of islands and water.

As the ice sheet melted, sea Ancient basement rocks are only exposed in a few places, as here at Yesnaby level rose too fast to allow much cliff erosion, and thus in many sheltered parts of Orkney shores slope gently Aerial view of Lochs of Harray and Stenness with Stromness and the Hills in the background down to a depth of about The natural environment of to 4,000m of mud and sand be seen. These are the fos- 70m. On the more exposed Orkney has been formed by sediment accumulated on silised remains of blue-green western side the spectacular the interaction of land, sea the lake floor as rivers erod- algae (cyanobacteria), prim- cliffs as well as many other and ice. Each island is dif- ed the surrounding moun- itive plants which are current coastal features were ferent, resulting in a wide tains. The tropical climate thought to have created the created prior to glaciation. variety of scenery and habi- encouraged the evolution of oxygen-rich atmosphere of tat in a small area. It is geo- many species, and many fish Earth by fixing large The rock lends itself to the Rough seas at Yesnaby, West Mainland logically an extension of fossil beds were laid down amounts of Carbon dioxide formation of spectacular northeast Caithness, and are in the sediments. Examples rock stacks such as the Old mostly composed of of these fossil fish can now Only at Stromness, Yesnaby Man of Hoy, large caves Devonian Middle Old Red be seen at the Fossil and and on are the which may collapse to form Sandstone flagstones and Heritage Centre in . basement rocks visible. “gloups” (ON Gluppa, pre- sandstones, except for Hoy Some species had scales Similar to those of nearby cipitous chasm) as at the which is largely Upper Old which formed strong Sutherland, they date from Gloup in , and nat- Red Sandstone. armour, while others resem- about 1,000 million years ural arches such as at the Vat ble modern fish. ago. There are also small of Kirbuster, on . About 350 million years ago exposures of volcanic rocks, Features like these are the Lake Orcadie covered an Fossilised plants and inver- lavas and tuffs. These are result of erosion and are area from the Norwegian tebrates also occur. At mostly evident as intrusions, continuously evolving. coast to the Moray Firth. Up Yesnaby stromatolites can or “dykes”. The sandstone weathers to The Old Red Sandstone rock strata are very obvious Fossil fish may be seen at the Fossil & Vintage Centre “Horse teeth” stromatolite, Yesnaby Ripple marks on rocks, Yesnaby Volcanic trap dyke

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NATURE AND ENVIRONMENT GEOLOGY e c

i growth of trees. At present f f

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r Apart from Hoy, where the p e Ward Hill reaches 479m, R St John’s Head and the Orkney is not very high. established themselves since first-time visitors and return- The low-lying, rounded the Ice Age (including man) ing natives so pleasantly landscape with rolling hills has created the current green when they get off the boat or and gentle valleys has result- and blue welcoming land- aircraft. ed in several large lochs, scape which greets both some connected to the sea, as well as numerous bogs Remains of ancient trees are exposed at low tide in several places and marshy areas. Many of the latter have now been drained, but large areas have also been preserved as they are important wildlife habi- tats. form good soils, which give good agricultural soil, with of man and his animals. Due the characteristic grassland only the higher areas being to exposure there is consid- Thus a combination of geol- and heath vegetation. covered in blanket peat. The erable stress on vegetation, ogy, glaciation, erosion by Overlain with a coat of present environment is very which in turn limits the sea and weather combined glacially-deposited clay, much a combination of geol- crops which may be grown, with the effects of the vari- much of the land makes for ogy, climate and the effects and severely stunts the ous species which have

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NATURE AND ENVIRONMENT CLIMATE

The growing season in Orkney extends for only about half of the year, or a month less than in southern . However, this is greatly compensated by the long hours of daylight in summer, when it never real- ly gets dark, and the sun is above the horizon for over 18 hours. The corollary of course is midwinter, when the sun is very low in the sky, and is only above the horizon for about 6 hours a day.

As for the best time to come to Orkney, it is hard to Midsummer light over the North Isles from Wideford Hill at 01:00 - “The Grimlins” or “Simmer Dimm” advise! At any season sever- Orkney's climate is remark- months while December and The weather is greatly influ- al types of weather may be had in a day. The following ably equable for its latitude. January are the least sunny, enced by the Scottish SOLAR DIAGRAM FOR ORKNEY The weather is greatly influ- windiest and wettest Mainland, the Sutherland gives an idea of most and This diagram illustrates the large seasonal variation in the enced by the sea, and in par- months. Weather is howev- mountains offering consid- least. Bear in mind that altitude and azimuth of the sun at Orkney’s latitude. Whilst ticular the North Atlantic er very variable, depending erable protection from west- there are often spells of very in summer the sun is above the horizon for nearly 18 Drift, which ensures that sea as it does on the interaction erly weather and ensuring a pleasant weather in winter, hours, in winter it is visible for barely 6 hours. The posi- temperatures only vary by of the warm Atlantic, cool relatively low rainfall of in between the windy days. tion of the sun can be estimated for any day and time, about 5 degrees between North Sea and associated about 900mm (36in). At all These can themselves be which is useful for photographers, artists, or just those summer and winter. The weather systems. Electrical times of year conditions are very exhilarating. Although wishing to see any particular place in the best light. most noticeable feature to storms are rare, as is fog, very variable, but when high it rains on an average of 240 the visitor is the wind, which except in spring and summer pressure is established over days a year, the rain is usual- the wide changes in day artists and photographers in is unimpeded by the smooth when the wind is in the the North Sea and ly of short duration. length provide a huge vari- all months and at most times terrain. While Orcadians south east. Scandinavia, a good spell ety of lighting conditions, of day, indeed all fours sea- might like "having the bene- can be expected. The combination of vari- making Orkney a Mecca for sons may occur in one day! fit of the wind", it also con- able, maritime weather and trols or affects all kinds of The Northern Lights or Aurora Borealis are often seen in winter Snow is usually short-lived in Orkney, but when it comes it can be beautiful things including buildings, WHEN TO COME TO farming, fishing, gardening ORKNEY and, of course, the natural environment and wildlife. Sunniest April, May, June Dullest November, Orkney is also surprisingly December, January mild, with relatively little Driest May, June variation in mean tempera- Wettest October-January ture between winter and Calmest May, June, July summer - under 10 degrees - Windiest November-March and very little snow or frost. Warmest June-September May and June are the sunni- Coolest December-March est, calmest and driest

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HABITATS NATURE AND ENVIRONMENT

54/56 Junction Road Kirkwall, Orkney KW15 1AW Working with Scotland’s people to care for our natural heritage

MAIN HABITAT TYPES Sea, Skerries and Islets Exposed Cliffs Low Cliffs and Banks Aerial view of and Loch of Stenness with Hoy in the background Beaches & Dunes Saltmarsh For its size, Orkney has a Royal Society for the Extreme care must be taken RSPB RESERVES Maritime Heath very wide range of habitats, Protection of Birds (RSPB) at all times to avoid disturb- Mainland Hobbister Moorland Moorland which range from exposed Reserves, four Scottish ing breeding birds and ani- Birsay Moors Moorland Marshes and Bogs sea coasts to sheltered gar- Wildlife Trust (SWT) and mals, or damaging plants. Marwick Head Sea Cliffs Lochs, Ditches and Burns dens. Although much of the two Council Nature Permission should also be Loons & Loch of Banks Wetland Farmland non-cultivated land is now Reserves, all of which may sought before entering Brodgar Farmland, Wetland Roadside verges protected under a variety of be visited or observed from ground to which public Cottascarth & Moss Moorland Woodland and Gardens names with somewhat public roads, paths or hides. access is not obvious. In Islands Island, Sea cliffs arcane acronyms such as They are all described in practice the car can often Rousay, Moorland , Onziebust Farmland SSSI, NSA SPA or SAC, in more detail in the relevant provide an excellent hide, , Mill Dam Wetland fact all of Orkney is special gazetteer sections. Some while most plants can be Westray, Noup Head Sea Cliff for its natural history. places are off-limits in the observed in public areas, Papay, North Hill Maritime Heath breeding season, while those especially on verges, waste Hoy Moorland, Sea cliffs Many of these areas are on small uninhabited islands ground, ditches, burns and SCOTTISH WILDLIFE TRUST RESERVES included in the thirteen can be hard to access. banks. Mainland Harray Road End Moorland Islands Shapinsay, of Burglee Maritime Heath For the perfect Heather Moorland at Loomachun, Evie Backaskaill Bay, Sanday , Stronsay Island, Seals Hill of White Hammars, Hoy Coastal heath, cliffs ORKNEY SPECIAL AREAS OF CONSERVATION (SAC) HOLIDAY & , Loch of Stenness, Sanday, Stromness Heaths & Coast, Hoy Orkney Island LOCAL NATURE RESERVES (OIC) Wildlife Mull Head, Deerness, ( also belongs to the Council) Furrowend, Shapinsay, Orkney KW17 2DY NATIONAL SCENIC AREA (NSA) Tel/Fax (01856) 711373 Hoy and West Mainland ARCHAEOLOGY SITES OF SPECIAL SCIENTIFIC INTEREST (SSSI) HISTORY Total of 36 (details from Scottish Natural Heritage local office) WILDLIFE BIRDWATCHING

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