ANTI-AGING: HEALTHY NUTRITION & COSMETIC SOLUTIONS

DOM GUILLAUME*1, ZOUBIDA CHARROUF 2 * Corresponding author University of Reims Champagne-Ardenne 1. School of Medicine and Pharmacy of the, Department of Medicinal Chemistry, 51 Rue Cognacq Jay, 51100 Reims, France 2. School of Science of the University Mohammed V - Agdal of , Department of Plant Chemistry and Organic chemistry, BP14, Rabat,

Argan for nutritional and skin care applications

KEYWORDS: Edible oil, cosmetic oil, cardiovascular diseases, skin matters.

Two main types of argan oil co-exist: edible and cosmetic. Each type comes from the kernels of argan ABSTRACTfruit but following slightly different preparative processes. The nutritional and dermoprotective properties of edible and beauty argan oil, respectively, have remained traditional knowledge for centuries. During the last twenty years, argan oil fame has spread over the world. This success has also attracted the attention of scientists and triggered scientific investigations in both chemical and biology fields. Some traditional claims have been confirmed. This peer-reviewed article is aimed at explaining argan oil preparative process, its limits together with the reasons of argan oil success in the food and skin care domains.

INTRODUCTION

rgan oil is prepared by extracting argan kernels collected from the stones of argan tree fruit. Argan Atree ( spinosa (L.) Skeels, family sapotaceae) is a relic of the Tertiary era. Whereas it was covering a large part of North-western Africa at that time, during the Quaternary era, it was forced back to two tiny parts of Morocco by the last glaciation and only survived there. The largest of these two areas, which is protected from cold wind by the anti-Atlas mountains and tempered by the Atlantic Ocean, is in Southwestern Morocco and is now known as the home of the argan forest. The argan forest is traditionally inhabited by the Amazigh population who has developed through the ages a peculiar way of life centered on the argan tree and its production. If it is estimated that the argan forest covered initially almost four million acres, nowadays it covers slightly less than two million acres. Such dramatic Figure 1. Location of the argan forest (grey area) within Morocco. shrinking results from natural events as recurrent drought and from human activity resulting in prolonged forest overuse, overgrazing, or inappropriate forest management (1, 2). THE ARGAN TREE

Worried by the poor condition and perpetuating state of Argan tree is the only member of the Sapotaceae decrepitude of the argan forest, the United Nations family of pants whose distribution is not intertropical. It Education, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) is a slow-growing and spiny tree well adapted to the declared the Moroccan argan forest a World Biosphere barren lands of Southwest Morocco. It can be shrubby Reserve in 1998. Since then a vast program aimed at rescuing or up to ten meters high. Its deep root system help the argan forest according to a sustainable development stabilizing the ground against rain- or wind-induced mode has been going on in Morocco (3). Its most erosion while its shadow maintains soil fertility by emblematic result has been the re-discovery of argan oil preserving moisture and favoring the growth of different secular properties and, thanks to them, argan oil has kind of domestic cultures (4). Leaves of argan tree are conquered the world. also used as hanging forage for cattle that frequently

28 Monographic supplement series: Anti-aging: Healthy Nutrition & Cosmetic Solutions H&PC Today - Household and Personal Care Today, Vol. 8(2) & Agro FOOD Industry Hi Tech, Vol. 24(2) - March/April 2013 freely graze in the forest. optimum fruit drying time was Between June and September, found to be two weeks, argan trees bear fruit that is prolonged drying possibly collected by women once ripe leading to an oil of reduced and fallen on the soil. Argan fruit preservation ability (10), and is the size of a big olive and can optimum argan kernel roasting be round, ovoid, conical or time was established to be 20 spindle-shaped depending on minutes at 110°C (11). Such genotypic factors. Women conditions lead to the formation indistinctively gather and mix all of several odorants belonging to types of fruit. the aldehyde/ketone chemical group and that are important contributors to the oil aroma (12, EDIBLE ARGAN OIL 13). Nutritional properties of edible Table 1. Chemical composition of argan oil. Edible argan oil is prepared from argan oil result from its chemical roasted argan kernels. Roasting removes argan oil content. Argan oil is composed of up to 80% of bitterness and provides the oil with its unique unsaturated fatty acids and only 18% of saturated fatty taste. Traditionally, edible argan oil is eaten on bread. It acids (14). Unsaturated fatty acids, whose nutritional is the main source of used to prepare food in the benefits are well known, are (43 to 49%) and Amazigh diet and, therefore, it is the symbol of the (29 to 36%). Linolenic acid, a highly continuity of the Amazigh culture (5). Edible argan oil is oxidable molecule is present in very low concentration : also the main ingredient in Amlou, a Moroccan culinary less than 0.3%. Interestingly, argan oil is also particularly specialty also incorporating honey and chopped rich in tocopherols, a group of natural molecules . Out of the argan forest limits, edible argan oil endowed with strong anti-oxidant properties. is henceforth frequently introduced in gourmet food or Tocopherol content in argan oil can be up to 900 mg/ used for cooking since it improves the taste of ethnic kg and is never below 600 mg/kg. Only presents dishes. Traditionally, edible argan oil is exclusively a similar concentration whereas tocopherol prepared by women following an ancestral multistep content is only around 300 mg/kg. Argan oil low content process that is transmitted from mother to daughter. The in linolenic acid, and high content in tocopherol are process begins with dry-fruit peeling; fresh peel being likely to be responsible for its good preservation latex-rich and too sticky to be removed. Argan nuts are properties. Recently, argan oil phospholipids have also then manually broken between two stones to deliver been shown to actively participate in the oil two or three kernels. Then, these latter are air-dried in preservation (15). Edible argan oil is also a rich source clay containers, roasted for a few minutes, cooled, and of Coenzyme Q10 and melatonin, two antioxidant ground using a home-made millstone. The resulting molecules but does not seem to contain Coenzyme Q9. brownish dough is then repeatedly hand-malaxed with Only virgin shows higher CoQ10 and mild water for several minutes. Slowly, the dough gets melatonin levels than virgin argan oil (16). solid and an oily emulsion can be collected. After decantation, limpid argan oil is obtained. Using such Edible argan oil nutritional properties have been mostly extractive process, for a single person, 58 hours of work evidenced on animals or through cohort studies. These are necessary to extract 2 to 2.5L of oil from 100 kg of properties that are frequently reviewed (17-19) include dried-fruit. Such process, which is still used on a family cardiovascular, hepatoprotective and choleretic effects. scale, is obviously incompatible with today’s food Regular consumption of argan oil is said to decrease blood standards in terms of productivity, traceability, cholesterol and triglyceride concentration, and to have a lipid- reproductibility, as well as bacteriological safety. To lowering effect (20). More recently, the antithrombotic (21) and fully satisfy international requirements, recently the antiatherogenic (22) properties of argan oil have been preparative process of edible argan oil has been evidenced. Argan oil could also prevent diabetes (23). Because drastically improved. For large scale production, edible some of argan oil nutritional properties are similar to that of olive argan oil is prepared by cold-pressing roasted argan oil, recently the respective merits of each oil have been kernels using endless-screw press and roasting is compared. Since argan oil composition is less fluctuent than frequently achieved using computer-controlled roasters. that of olive oil, argan oil-based diet can be considered as Extraction yield has been improved by 33%, global more reliable than olive oil-based diet (24). Benefits of the preparation time reduced of 20% and oil quality Amazigh diet for postmenopausal women are presently being improved (6). To respect tradition, women are still evaluated. Preliminary results indicate that regular consumption responsible for oil preparation which is often done in of argan oil exerts a positive effect on women’s anti-oxidant cooperative structures. Using a scientific approach, profile and the resulting high g-tocopherol blood level could edible argan oil preparative process has been have a beneficial impact for the prevention of osteoporosis- successively improved. Rapidly, animal-peeled fruit has related outcomes. been discarded to avoid taste alteration as well as poor preservation properties (7). Consequently, the oil that was deemed to have poor preservation properties was COSMETIC ARGAN OIL shown to nicely preserve for at least 2 years at room temperature when protected from sun-light (8). As edible argan oil, cosmetic argan oil (INCI name: Argania Importantly to allow a year-long production, argan spinosa kernel oil) is a cold-pressed oil but it is obtained from kernel storage was shown to be possible for one year at non-roasted argan kernels. All other steps of the preparative 4°C without alteration of the future oil (9). Finally, process used to get edible or cosmetic are identical.

Monographic supplement series: Anti-aging: Healthy Nutrition & Cosmetic Solutions 29 H&PC Today - Household and Personal Care Today, Vol. 8(2) & Agro FOOD Industry Hi Tech, Vol. 24(2) - March/April 2013 Cosmetic argan oil is either prepared in the same cooperative 1012-1022 (2009). structures than edible oil, even though pressing fresh kernels 3. M.W. Mikesell. Science, 19, 441-448 (1960). can lead to technical problems, or in industrial plants. Some 4. Z. Charrouf, D. Guillaume. Biofutur, 220, 54-57 (2002). years ago cosmetic argan oil was sometimes extracted using 5. Z. Charrouf, D. Guillaume. Crit. Rev. Food Sci. Nutr., 50, 473-477 volatile and lipophilic organic solvents (mostly hexane) but such (2010). method is rarely used now for obvious quality reasons. Because 6. M. Hilali, Z. Charrouf, et al. J. Agric. Food Chem., 53, 2081-2087 it is prepared from non-roasted kernels, cosmetic argan oil is (2005). gold colored whereas edible argan oil is copper colored. 7. B. Matthäus, D. Guillaume, et al. Food Chem., 120, 426-432 (2010). Moreover, cosmetic argan oil is a non-fragrant oil. This means 8. S. Gharby, H. Harhar et al. LWT- Food Sci. Technol., 44, 1-8. (2011). that it does not present a hazelnut taste and that its chemical 9. H. Harhar, S. Gharby et al., Eur. J. Lipid Sci. Technol., 112, 915-920 composition is slightly different from that of edible argan oil (6). (2010). More specifically, moisture content is higher in cosmetic argan 10. H. Harhar, S. Gharby B. et al. Nat. Prod. Commun., 5, 1799-1802 oil than in edible oil and its phospholipid content is lower (15). (2010). Consequently, cosmetic argan oil shelf life is shorter than that of 11. H. Harhar, S. Gharby et al. Plant Foods Hum. Nutr., 66, 163-168 (2011). edible oil, its preservation time being around 6 months. Minor 12. Z. Charrouf, H. El Hamchi et al. Nat Prod. Commun., 1, 399-404 odorant composition in edible and cosmetic oils is also different (2006). between (12). This is because roasting induces the formation of 13. H. El Monfalouti, Z. Charrouf et al. Nat Prod. Commun., 8, 33-36 numerous volatiles, mostly by Strecker or Maillard reactions, and (2013) these compounds are missing in cosmetic argan oil. 14. Service de normalisation industrielle (Snima). Norme Marocaine NM Cosmetic argan oil is meant to be directly applied on the skin or 08.5.090. Snima, Rabat (Morocco) (2003). hair or to be an ingredient in cosmetic preparations. All 15. S. Gharby, H. Harhar et al Nat. Prod. Commun., 7, 621-624 (2012). dermocosmetic properties of argan oil have not necessarily 16. C. Venegas, C. Cabrera-Vique et al, J. Agric. Food Chem., 59, been scientifically established. This does not prevent most of the 12102–12108 (2011). largest cosmetic Laboratories to market organic argan oil or 17. H. El Monfalouti, D. Guillaume et al, J. Pharm. Pharmacol., 62, 1669- creams, lotions, or shampoos incorporating some amount 1675 (2010). argan oil. Because of its high anti-oxidant content, argan oil is 18. D . Guillaume, Z. Charrouf, Alter. Med. Rev., 16, 275-278 (2011). possesses excellent anti-free radical effects particularly efficient 19. C. Cabrera-Vique, R. Marfil et al, Nutr. Rev., 70, 266-279 (2012). at protecting the skin against premature aging-induced 20. M.M. Ould Mohamedou, A. Tacha et al. Mediterr J Nutr Metab., 5, wrinkles. It also helps reduce the appearance of crow’s feet. 143-147 (2012). Argan oil is generally used in cosmetology as skin moisturizing 21. H. Mekhfi, F. Belmekki et al. Nutr. Rev., 70, 266-279 (2012). and for curing devitalized skin, it is a very good remedy for dry 22. M.M. Ould Mohamedou, K. Zouirech et al. Int. J. Endocrinol., ID skin. Argan oil is also very good to restore skin elasticity. It quickly 747835 (2011). heals the marks caused by scratching on skin and cure all kind 23. S. Bellahcen, H. Mekhfi et al, H, Phytother Res., 26,180-185 (2012). of skin pimples with a special efficiency for juvenile acne and 24. S. Gharby, H. Harhar et al. Med. J. Nutr. Metab., 5, 31-38 (2012). chicken pox pustules. It also nourishes dry skin with a tendency 25. H. Dobrev, J. Cosmet. Dermatol., 6, 113-118 (2007). towards eczema by helping to restore the skin barrier. Cosmetic 26. F. Henry, L. Danoux et al. In : XXIe Journées internationales d’étude argan oil presents anti-sebum properties (25). As a body care des polyphénols, Marrakech, Maroc, 9-12 septembre (2002). this oil is ideal for massages. Additionally, argan oil gives 27. L. Pumareda, F. Henry et al. Bois Forêts des Tropiques, 287, 35-44 strength to the weak and brittle nails. It also strengthens the (2006). In French delicate skin at the root of nails and makes it smooth. Added in 28. M. Zougagh, R. Salghi et al. Anal Bioanal Chem. 399, 2395-2405 shampoos, cosmetic argan oil could penetrate the hair shaft (2011). and repair damaged hair follicles. It also gives a puffy and shiny 29. M. Hilali, Z. Charrouf et al. J. Am. Oil Chem Soc., 84, 761-764 (2007). hair, giving it brightness, softness and a silky effect. Polyphenols 30. F.A.E. Mohammed, R. Bchitou, et al. Food Chem., 136, 105-108 of argan tree leaves are also used in cosmetology (26, 27) (2013). 31. A. Gonzálvez, S. Armenta et al. Food Chem.,121, 878-886 (2010). Of edible or cosmetic grade, argan oil has become a major actor in the virgin oil kingdom. Its multistep extractive process and the amount of work required for its extraction fully explain argan oil elevated price. Because of such elevated price argan oil is often referred to as "the most expensive oil in the world". Unfortunately such position increases the risk of oil adulteration. To reduce this risk, argan oil is now granted with a geographic protected status and analytical methods have been developed (28-31). Hence, consumers can be confident in the quality of the produce they buy.

REFERENCES AND NOTES

1. Z. Charrouf, D. Guillaume. J. Ethnopharmacol., 67, 1-14 (1999). 2. Z. Charrouf, D. Guillaume. Sustainability, 1,

30 Monographic supplement series: Anti-aging: Healthy Nutrition & Cosmetic Solutions H&PC Today - Household and Personal Care Today, Vol. 8(2) & Agro FOOD Industry Hi Tech, Vol. 24(2) - March/April 2013